Archive for April, 2007

Scuba diving on the Cayman Islands

The Cayman Islands (Grand Cayman, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac) are among the smallest islands in the Caribbean. Yet what they lack in size, they make up for in beauty, spectacular sea adventure and world-renowned scuba diving.

If you’re not a diver, no worries. There’s still plenty to capture your attention… and, yes, a piece of your wallet. On our recent trip to Grand Cayman (locals pronounce it cayMAN, like “Hey, man!”), we found it easier to just accept the high prices as a reality of traveling to an island largely sustained by imports.

Scuba Diving & Water Sports in the Caymans

Grand Cayman’s scuba diving easily lived up to its reputation. Many certified divers come to dive, and to do nothing else, often choosing to stay at one of several all-inclusive dive resorts. If you plan to dive multiple days, ask about price breaks for diving with the same company. And book your dives in advance, especially during high season. (If you’ve got your own gear, leave your scuba gloves at home as diving with them is illegal in the Caymans, leaving you subject to a hefty fine.)

If you’re thinking about getting certified, forgo the swimming pool training back home and get certified here. Several reputable dive companies with highly experienced divers will help you get certified in 3-5 days. With an average water temperature of 80F (26C), Grand Cayman sure beats most other chilly bodies of water. Full PADI certification costs US$400-$550, which is competitive with US mainland prices. If you’re not sure if diving is for you, you can try a Cayman Island resort-course dive, where a certified instructor takes you through a training session and a guided dive right off shore, which can be far less stressful for a beginner. The general topography of Grand Cayman with reefs, sandbars, and coral beds right off shore make this experience well worth it.

As an advanced diver, I can attest to magic bestowed on Grand Cayman’s crystal clear, underwater world. The highlight was seeing a 200-300lb Goliath Grouper in Tapan Alley along the North Wall. But the real magic was in the typical sea life that boasts hundreds of species, including Hammerheads, sea turtles, sting rays, and barracudas. Check this out for yourself on a two-tank Cayman Islands dive.

Next stop? Paradise

The general Cayman pace is slow, and the ‘art of doing nothing’ is a daily pastime. Yet there’s enough action to keep non-divers busy. Since my traveling companion was a non-diver, we were keen on finding activities to meet both of our interests. Conveniently, most dive boats will leave in the morning and have you back in time for lunch, allowing time to experience much more together both above and below sea level.

Surrounded by water, you can hire just about any water activity from shore: wave runners, kayaks, parasailing, water skiing, glass-bottom boat tours and underwater submarine tours. And there seems to be an endless choice of sunset sails and dinner cruises.

Grand Cayman & Georgetown

As the most developed island in the chain, Grand Cayman hosts one to five cruise ships a day off the main town – Georgetown. Here you’ll find a concentration of specialty shops and restaurants — the likes of Hard Rock Café and Senor Frogs — not far from resort hotels. You’ll also find a large number of tourists, so if you’re not one for crowds, we suggest visiting this area on a day when there are two or less ships in port. There’s a convenient website you can check to see what ships are in port to determine the days that should be the least /most crowded.

Adjacent to Georgetown is Grand Cayman’s famous 7-mile beach, where you can relax, soak up the sun and take advantage of several water-sport activities. Be warned: areas in front of hotels can be overcrowded on busy cruise-ship days, so choose your time wisely. If you want to enjoy a bit more seclusion, head away from central Georgetown.

If you’re not staying at a hotel, explore the magic of 7-mile beach by planting yourself at Calico Jacks, which is a restaurant bar near the public beach park with covered picnic tables. Here you get a sweeping view of the 7 miles and can rent beach chairs and water activities.

While a rental car is not necessary since a slew of taxi and tour companies are clamoring for your business, we found having one made it easier to take off on a whim. But be prepared to drive on the left since the Caymans remain a British Crown Colony. It’s also worth noting, Grand Cayman’s limited roads contribute to a daily rush hour, which is only compounded when cruise ships are docked, so midday sojourns are better than early morning or evening.

As you head away from Georgetown, you’ll get a more “local” feel. If you head east you can take the long way around the island where you’ll discover remote beaches as well as more evidence of Hurricane Ivan that devastated the island in 2004. If you keep driving around the East End, you’ll eventually stumble upon Rum Point with a fine white beach and picture-perfect turquoise sea. Rum Point embodies the “fun-in-the-sun” spirit with FREE use of hammocks supported by palm trees and FREE beach chairs (but you’ll be asked not to bring in outside food and beverage since they prefer you purchase from their restaurant). When you order make sure to try the signature Mudslide — but only if you’re really ready for the hammock or the passenger seat.

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As regular readers of the Viator Travel Blog will know, I recently took a trip to the US and had my first ever visit to Las Vegas. Now what is the one big thing you HAVE to do when you visit this part of America? The Grand Canyon of course!

Our trusty ride for the day

There are many ways to “do the Canyon”. You can take a plane or helicopter ride out there, join a bus tour or in the case of my friends and I, a self guided Hummer tour.

Arriving at the collection point for our vehicle of the day, I laughed at the size of some of the mini monster trucks parked in the yard and wondered to myself at the number of large vehicles on Las Vegas roads. Who could possibly need a car that big in a town so small? Well, apparently we do because one of those monster trucks was for us…so that’s what a Hummer is!

Almost needing a step ladder to get in, I hoisted myself into the black leather back seat and got comfortable for the ride. I have to admit, for a vehicle the size of an armored tank, it was pretty darn comfortable. We hit the road and in no time had left the bright lights of Las Vegas behind and were approaching Hoover Dam. This engineering feat marks the border between the states of Arizona and Nevada and is worth a stop for the photo opportunity. I guess if you are into building and engineering and other such “boy things” you may want to take a tour of the dam, however we were happy to take our happy snaps and move on.

After a few miles of very long and very straight roads through an uninspiring landscape, we made the right turn onto Diamond Bar Road, the only road to the Grand Canyon West Rim. OK, now I understand the need for a vehicle which could safely transport a priceless Ming vase through a mine field during an earthquake. Did I say comfortable? I hit my head on the roof once or twice and was tossed about the back seat like a rag doll, but hey, that’s all part of the fun right? 14 miles unpaved, bumpy, dusty fun to be precise…

Two and a half hours after leaving Las Vegas, we pulled into the parking lot of the Destination Grand Canyon center for a day of exploring one of nature’s greatest achievements. Our guide for the day was one Wilfred Whatoname, as featured on a previous blog by Rod, and whose likeness appears on the shuttle buses in the park. He is a member of the local Hualapai tribe and one of the nicest people I have ever met.

First on the to do list was the obligatory helicopter ride. It’s just the way it is, the best views of the Grand Canyon are from the air. Now I’m not the happiest of flyers even in the relative comfort and safety of a jumbo jet, so the prospect of climbing into a helicopter was more than a little daunting. Never mind, when would I ever get the chance again?

Being a big fan of the life theory “Do something that scares you every day”, I joined my friends in the small helicopter, thrilled with my front seat next to the full length glass door position (I hope you detected the tinge of sarcasm there…). As we took off I believed that by holding on to a hand rail with a death like grip would somehow make the flight safer. Thankfully it didn’t take long to settle my nerves and realize we were not really all that high off the ground, I could still see people after all, nothing to be scared of.

Oh that’s right, the helicopter flight was to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, silly me…

I’m not ashamed to admit I screamed as we dropped over the edge of the canyon and descended to the base - 4,000 feet below. Yes, I was paying attention as profanities escaped my mouth and the pilot laughed some more. Happily landing at the bottom we enjoyed a short cruise on the Colorado River. Then it was time to fly again, because in this case, what goes down, has to come up. To my delight it was the same pilot who had flown us to the bottom (no really I’m not being sarcastic this time, the pilot was cute - I was thrilled to see him again!).

With feet back on the ground it was time to head to the newest Grand Canyon “must do” - the Grand Canyon Skywalk. Despite all I had heard about crowds and queues, we pretty much walked straight onto the new attraction. With shower caps on our feet (they are called booties and are meant to stop the glass from being scratched, but I think its just to make tourist look stupid) we shuffled onto the multi million dollar structure that juts out over the top of the canyon for unrivaled views. Now you may guess from my dislike of flying that I’m not so fond of heights, so here’s was my chance to catch up on any days I missed out on doing something that scares me. Considering how high up we were, the transparent glass floor and factoring in the slightly disconcerting movement of the Skywalk in the wind, I didn’t find this experiencing completely terrifying. Once you take the first step out, its not so bad and the view is spectacular. Be a little brave and lean your head out over the edge so you can’t see anything else from the corner of your eye and its like flying over the Canyon.

Next on the agenda was lunch at Guano Point, well worth the visit for the views alone. We spent a bit of time here enjoying the view and eventually all split off on our own to enjoy the various vantage points. It was here that the most unexpected thing happened to me. I cried. I don’t know why, I wasn’t sad, I was actually quite happily enjoying the day. There was just something about the solitude and beauty of the place that gave me a moment of reflection on my life and before I knew it, the tears were rolling down my cheeks. At this point Wilfred came over to spoke quiet words to me that were perfect and left me amazed that he knew what I was feeling. Now despite my love of yoga and organic food I’m not really an “at one with nature” type of person, so I still don’t quite know what happened, but the Grand Canyon will forever be a spiritual place for me.

To finish the day Wilfred loaded us into his Hummer (so big it put our Hummer to shame!) and took us on a 20 minute off road tour. As we approached the very edge of the canyon it momentarily seemed less spiritual as the 4,000 foot drop loomed. However with meters to spare, Wilfred made a sharp left instead giving us another great view of the canyon from the rim. One last heart stopper before the day was through was a sharp descent into a ridge, followed by a surprisingly fast ascent up the other side.

At the end of the day, Wilfred gave us all a souvenir of the day and hugged us like old friends. Emotionally drained yet uplifted at the same time we were ready to return to the crazy world of Las Vegas. Back in the hummer we started back on our way, bumping along that dirt road again through the Joshua Tree Forest. Once we hit the smooth straight highway it was time to sit back and reflect on the day while scrolling through all the photos taken. It was then I realized that while in the helicopter I had accidentally switched the dial on my camera to video mode as we took the plunge into the canyon. The resulting 30 second video clip of the helicopter floor accompanied with a soundtrack of me screaming and swearing would be my second precious souvenir of the day!

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of Grand Canyon tours.

It is safe for women to dive any time of the month

Viator’s customer care team is the best. I’m not kidding, our teams in Las Vegas and Sydney are incredibly good at responding to questions and concerns from you, our loyal travelers. They don’t just review each and every booking you make. They also go out of their way to answer all sorts of questions about our tours and activities, often within just a few hours of receiving them.

I am not trying to get on their good side.

Nor am I trying to make them feel better in the run-up to the Northern Hemisphere high season. (In late April and early May, people like you start getting serious about the summer travel plans. Which means our customer care teams get busy. Real busy.)

I’m telling you this because just the other day our customer care team received a query that stumped them at first. (Would I have ignored it, or buried it in the bottom of the queue? Hmmm, maybe. Which is why I don’t work in the customer care team.) Undaunted, Viator’s customer care team went the extra mile to find an answer, which I want to share.

The question was about one of our tours in the Dominican Republic, in Punta Cana specifically:

“Hello, I would like to book this snorkeling and diving tour in Punta Cana, but am worried about my menstrual cycle. I am not sure what date is best to book. Do you know if a female’s menstrual cycle can attract sharks? Thank you!”

Full disclosure: I am not a shark expert. And neither is Fleur, the customer care agent who fielded this question. But Fleur recognized this as a serious safety issue. I mean, if sharks are attracted (and I mean that in the ‘eat you, bite you, thrash you’ sense of the word) to women during their menstrual cycles, then obviously it is a really, really bad idea to snorkel or dive anywhere near a shark during a woman’s menstrual cycle!

To track down an answer Fleur queried the Viator staff, many of whom are passionate divers. There’s a lively debate about the topic on scubaboard.com, with some (mainly men, I’d like to point out) suggesting that menstruating women may, in fact, be at greater risk. Yet the vast majority of academic journals and shark experts disagree with that assumption. The best response we could find was from Richard Martin in his book Shark Smart, The Divers Guide to Understanding Shark Behavior:

“It has been demonstrated that sharks are uninterested in menstrual fluids. This is not, as some dive physicians suggest, because the amount of fluid is small and discharged over a number of days. Sharks have an highly developed ability to detect chemicals dissolved in water, down to 10 trillionth of a mole per litre of seawater for certain amino acids. If even the tiniest quantity of menses is released into the water during an hour’s dive, the incredible acuity of the shark olfactory system may well be able to detect it. While certain types of blood are well-known to be highly attractive to sharks, menstrual ‘blood’ is a complex fluid that is chemically very different from systemic blood… it has been shown experimentally that sharks are simply not interested in it.”

So there you have it. The scientific consensus is that, if you’re a woman concerned about diving during your menstrual cycle, you are not at an increased risk of being attacked by a shark. So suit up, it’s safe to get back in the water.

–Scott McNeely

Interested in scuba diving? Viator has dozens of scuba diving trips including a shark dive in South Africa; two-tank dives in Oahu, Hawaii and resort-course dives in Nassau, Bahamas; PADI certification courses in Los Cabos and PADI training dives in Cairns, Australia and dozens of more options — search ’scuba diving’ on Viator.com for the complete list.

After a hideous 16 hours of airports and jumbo jets, I arrived in the city of sin for my first ever visit. I had only been to the US once before on a 4 day stopover in Los Angeles on my way home from the UK about 8 years ago, so this was like arriving for the very first time.

Of course the first thing I did was hit “The Strip” - a 3 mile long stretch of the most outrageous, most over the top, loudest and brightest hotels in the world. Flashing neon signs and replicas of famous sights around the world scream out “look at me, visit me” as the casinos lurking within lure you into their world. Whether its the Statue of Liberty at New York New York, the huge Pyramid and Sphinx at the Luxor or the Eiffel Tower at Paris, they are all just a mask for the gambling inside.

The one thing that amazed me (well alot of things amazed me, but let’s say this was the stand out), in Las Vegas if you are gambling you don’t pay for drinks. To the big drinking Aussies and Brits out there, I’m sure I now have your full attention! It’s true… if you are putting money into the slot machines or on the gaming tables, scantily clad cocktail waitresses are in abundance to serve you free alcohol.

Las Vegas is a 24-hour town, the casinos never close and the drinks keep flowing. It is easy to lose track of time and indeed forget what day it is in a world that never sleeps. No daylight penetrates the walls of the casinos so you will never even know the sun has come up. Many casinos are connected so the need to go outside is removed and there are no clocks inside. The signs within the casino point to the shops, restaurants, aquariums, lion habitat, white tiger exhibit, titanic display, theaters and restrooms, however never to the exit.

Despite the obvious intention of taking as much money from you as possible, Las Vegas is a fun city. The consumer is king and you will want for nothing. There is no hard sell, it is subtle in a Vegas kind of way, almost subliminal as you get distracted by the bells and whistles. If you can keep your head and go with the flow, Vegas has something for everyone.

What was my highlight from “The Strip”? Well, there were two. First was The Venetian hotel. With its extravagant Italian theme, the hotel is a masterpiece. Whether it’s the Gondolas floating above the gambling halls, or the replica of St Marks Square at the entrance, it is opulence at its finest.

My second was dinner at the Paris casino. A huge buffet featuring dishes from every region of France where you can get a dose of Europe while in Vegas. The selection is divine and plentiful, and the decor of the restaurant gives a good representation of a typical French village. I dined with a real life Frenchman and even he was overwhelmed by the quality and authenticity of the food.

On the whole I had a great time in Las Vegas and hope to get back there again someday. Stayed tuned for more details of my visit over the next few weeks…

-Kerrie O’Mahony

You know, it’s Latin for ‘traveler’

I was in New York City last week at a conference. The weather in NYC was mediocre (rain, cold blasts of chilly air, gray clouds…) but it didn’t get me down. That’s because I love New York. That’s right, as silly and cliched as it sounds, I really love New York.

Which is odd, because I used to live in New York. I know how hard it is to get by in that city, how you never seem to have enough money, enough time or enough space.

Another odd NYC fact: in the year or so I lived there, I cooked a meal in my apartment no more than a dozen times. And I never thought twice about it. People in Manhattan simply do not cook. They eat out. Chinese takeaway, slices of pizza, burgers, bagels, sometimes even a burrito (back then New Yorkers had no idea what good Mexican food was like, but that is changing).

But I digress. My hotel was just off Times Square, which has its advantages. Being in the travel industry I get a thrill (no joke) from talking to American tourists and foreign travelers, and getting a sense of what is popular, new and interesting in the world of travel.

As it often happens, I started talking to a family (from London) who were waiting for their New York City bus tour. They had booked online at www.viator.com (cheers for that) and I was asking them questions about their overall experience. (In retrospect they must have thought I was incredibly dull, blathering on about trends in online travel.)

My impromptu focus group was going great, until somebody asked me about the name of our company. This isn’t an exact quote but it’s close enough:

Nice London family: So what’s a ‘Via Tour’ then?

Scott: Actually we pronounce it VEYE-a-tor. You know, VI-a-tor.

Nice family from London: Via, what?

Scott: Viator. Most Americans pronounce it like “aviator” without the initial ‘a’. But the ‘i’ is a long vowel and the stress is actually on the first syllable.

Nice family from London: Right then, Viator, so what’s it mean?

Scott: A ha! I’m glad you asked. Most people don’t realize that ‘viator’ is actually the Latin word for ‘traveler’. ‘Via’ is the Latin word for ‘road’ and when you give it an -or suffix it becomes the word for traveler or messenger.

Nice family from London: Really, marvelous, how terribly fascinating…

At this point their eyes were clearly glazing over, so I canceled the history lesson and let them board their bus. I kid you not, later in the day at my conference I was having a conversation about Viator and was asked if we spelled it ‘Viatour’. You know, as in via-TOUR?

Alas, as much as www.viatour.com or www.viat or.com or vivatour.com or even via-tours.com would make sense, I had to reply that no, it’s Viator, you know, VI-a-tor. Believe it or not it’s actually the Latin word for ‘traveler’…

–Scott McNeely

Casco Viejo, Panama City

The fantastically diverse scenery that Panama (a.k.a. the ‘bridge of the Americas’) offers means that no single visit can do justice to all its attractions. This is doubly true if you’re an adventurous type of traveler. Oceans, mountains, jungle and hip urban nightlife… Panama really does have something for everyone.

The following itinerary takes in a few of the places I visited last year, on a route that (more or less) follows the Interamericana Highway from Panama City to the border of Costa Rica. It’s a guide only, and while it’s possible to cover the sights in 10 days, don’t let that stop you spending more time in any one of the suggested locations – after all, if I was forced to spend a few extra days sipping coffee in Boquete, I wouldn’t exactly be disappointed.

Things to see & do in Panama City

As a major thriving capital lying — quite literally — at the heart of Latin America, Panama City is more than just a transit lounge. Although it’s perhaps true that few tourists spend a lengthy period of time in the city itself, nevertheless there are plenty of attractions to make for an enjoyable three- or four-day stay. Whilst New York-style skyscrapers dominate the Pacific coastline, Westernization hasn’t yet become suffocating, and the city has retained its distinct Latin pulse.

The Panama Canal Locks

In terms of sightseeing, the Casco Viejo neighbourhood is a particular highlight, with colonial architecture, old churches and laid-back narrow streets making an ideal place to while away an afternoon, if not longer. The coastline also affords great views of the city’s skyline from here.

The Causeway at the south of the city is also worth visiting – both for the restaurants, bars and stunning ocean vistas, and also as a boarding point for boats to Isla Taboga, a picturesque island just off the coast. Panama Viejo, a series of ruins of the old city that now lies at the eastern edge of today’s city, is also worth a visit if you’ve time on your hands.

For nightlife, many travellers hang out in the Bella Vista area of town, which is awash with restaurants, bars, clubs, and even the odd casino, all of which mean there is something for all ages. Salsa, electronic music and rock predominate. The Causeway is also worth checking out – as one of the most popular new spots in the city, you can just walk amongst the range of bars and clubs to find something that suits your mood. If it’s the specific Latin vibe you’re after, you can do worse than simply asking the locals for their recommendations.

Of course, no trip to Panama City is complete without a visit to the nearby canal. Best viewed via the Miraflores Locks, with its large museum, platforms for fantastic viewing plus an excellent open-air restaurant, the Panama Canal’s awe-inspiring size as an international shipping canal is an absolute must-see. If you’ve time, it’s even possible to arrange a Panama Canal transit tour. Partial transits take place each Saturday morning (lasting about 4.5 hours), with one full transit taking place one Saturday each month.

El Valle de Antón

Located about 120 km (75 mi) west of Panama City, El Valle is a quaint rural town surrounded by lush forest and mountain peaks. At an altitude of 1,000 meters (3,280 ft), the valley has a lovely climate, offering a welcome respite from the baking coast. Although it’s possible to do a day trip from the capital, El Valle merits more than just an afternoon, so my advice would be to relax, stop over and enjoy the soothing tranquility.

The waterfall at El Valle

One of El Valle’s main attractions is its handicrafts market, browsing through which you will encounter anything from traditional Indian items to colourful baskets and Panama hats. There are also scores of good forest trails for exploring on foot, as well as the gorgeous 85-meter (278-ft) high waterfall Chorro El Macho, which is a must-see. After a good few hours’ hiking, the Thermal Baths complex found on the west side of town, where healing mud can be applied to the skin, is the perfect way to unwind on a sunny afternoon.

Las Lajas

This beautiful palm-lined beach lying just over 10 km (6.2 mi) south of the Interamericana on the road to David (Panama’s second-largest city) is the perfect place to chill and relax for a couple of days – or longer, if you’re like me and take pleasure in having a beach literally all to yourself. I was here last year and had a wonderful few days watching the Pacific tide surge in and out whilst topping up my tan. There were rumours of a golf resort being planned for development; it is to be hoped that such speculation remains just that, for it would be a tragedy for the laid-back, tranquil vibe to be ruined. All of which, of course, makes it all the more pressing for travellers to enjoy the beach in its present state.

Although weekends are obviously busier with native families being lured to the seashore, during the week the entire beach can be virtually yours for the taking. There are only one or two restaurants, but the food is generally fine (especially the fresh fish) and the ocean views make any wait for service worthwhile. Watching the sun turn violet as it goes down over the Pacific is one of life’s little treasures.

Boquete

Lying amidst the highlands roughly seven hours’ drive west of Panama City and 40 km (25 mi) north of David, this delightful alpine town is one of the true highlights of the country, both for its unspoilt natural splendour and its wonderfully fresh climate. It’s also one of the best places in the country to buy coffee.

With its quaint cafes and restaurants, this is the ideal place to recuperate, whilst at the same time taking advantage of the stunning scenery to explore the region on foot. Aside from the surrounding natural beauty, Boquete holds a few attractions of its own. Mi Jardín es Su Jardín (My Garden is Your Garden) is a stunning garden open to the general public. There are also excellent coffee-estate tours offered by both Kotowa Coffee Estate and Café Ruíz, with visits to coffee plantations and roasting facilities rounding off with soothing cupping sessions for avid caffeine-lovers.

The laid-back atmosphere is addictive, although it belies how many travellers use the town as a base from which to explore the mountainous terrain, including the national parks of Volcán Barú and Cerra Punta, as well as white-water rafting on the Río Chiriquí or chilling out for an afternoon in the Caldera hot springs. Simply put, it’s a place where you can choose to do as much or as little as you like, without feeling guilty. I came expecting to stay a couple of nights and ended spending over a week.

Volcán Barú

This challenging hike up Panama’s highest summit is well worth the effort if you’re fit and healthy. There’s no real need to hire a guide as the trekking path is pretty clear, but you’ll need to take plenty of water and nibbles, as the trek takes around seven to ten hours depending on your level of fitness and/or how much time you spend taking in the sights.

Ideally you should try to make it to the summit within an hour after sunrise, otherwise clouds are likely to dash all hopes of seeing both oceans. The downside is that this necessarily means starting out in the early hours (think five o’clock) by the light of the moon. The eerie early morning breeze and the ominous outline of the volcano against the black background is enough to make even the drowsiest alert, however. Alternatively, you could do the trek in daylight, camp on the summit and watch the sunrise the following day. Just remember that it’s a bit lonely on top, as well as windy.

The spectacular vista from the summit makes all the effort worthwhile. Literally the whole country seems to be within view, and the stark physical contrast between the lush green highlands and the barren lowlands as they slide towards the beaches becomes all too apparent. It’s a genuinely humbling experience.

You will also do yourself a disservice if you fail to take time to observe the abundant wildlife that thrives in the woodland that adorns the slopes of Barú. If you are lucky you may even spot a quetzal, the sacred bird of the ancient Maya and Aztec peoples, and whose brilliant green and blue feathers and crimson breast cannot but impress.

Be warned, though, that taxis don’t just hang around waiting at the entrance to the national park. It’s therefore highly likely you will be faced with seemingly having completed the trek, only to find you’ve another few kilometres’ walk back to Boquete. So do your homework, try and arrange a rough estimate pick-up time from a taxi, and savour the moment of having conquered Panama’s highest point.

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of tours and things to do in Panama, from cultural tours to eco tours to Panama Canal Transit tours.

Washington DC: Preferred 5 to 4

There’s a short article in last Sunday’s New York Times about Washington DC and its effort to create a new city slogan.

Apparently the old slogan — ‘A Capital City’ — had to be retired due to a subtle double entendre. (When Washington DC’s crime rate, um, shot up in the late 1980s and early ’90s, being a capital city was nothing much to brag about.)

There’s no clear winner yet in the current crop of submissions. According to the NY Times article, “A sampling of submissions range from sober epigrams like ‘The City of National Monuments’ to playful one-liners like ‘It’s Capital, by George’ and ‘Your Party’s Here!’ Local blogs have been flooded with more irreverent proposals. ‘Mistakes Were Made,’ ‘Where Attorneys Roam’ and ‘Dude, Where’s My Car?’ are some of the printable ones.”

This being the Age of the Internet there is, of course, a website. Log on to shareyourdc.com and submit a slogan. We’re not sure if there will be prizes. We suggest tax deductions, no-child-left-behind credits or dinner with Marion Barry. Here are some of the slogans we’re planning to submit. Dude, don’t steal our epithets.

• Washington DC: Better than Baltimore! (funny because it is true)
• AC/DC (a joint rebranding effort with Atlantic City)
• Hang Ten on the Potomac (narrowly beat out ‘Aloha, Washington DC!’)
• Monumental Madness (borrowed from the Bush administration)
• NAFTA’s Favorite Capital City! (’Ottawa is for Lovers’ was already taken)
• Washington DC: Preferred 5 to 4 (submitted by Chief Justice Roberts)

–Scott McNeely

Planning a trip to Washington DC? Browse our list of Washington DC tours, Monuments by Moonlight, Gettysburg Tours and dozens of other things to do in NAFTA’s Favorite Capital City!

Editor’s Note: This is the second installment focusing of Cheryn’s travels in Vietnam. Be sure to read Cheryn’s other blog post about Hanoi’s old quarter.

A bridge near Sapa, Vietnam

We arrived at the train station in the city of Lao Cai and boarded a bus to Sapa. An hour later, the landscape changed from flat to mountainous and the views became dramatic, with terraced rice paddies trickling water from one to another and colorful hill tribe people on the side of the road, carrying baskets of leaves on their backs or selling veggies and fruit from roadside stalls.

Sapa, located in the western highlands of North Vietnam, was originally built by the French in 1922 as a hill station to escape the heat of Vietnam climes. Today, it sees a steady stream of tourists who come for its scenic landscape and to visit with the Black Hmong and Zao minority groups that live here. The journey to Sapa is an overnight train ride from Hanoi, approximately 10 hours if there aren’t mud slides clogging the tracks (which turned our train trip into a 20-hour voyage).

We arrived much later than expected and the mist and fog of the mountains had already settled over the town. We were reminded of Darjeeling in India, another hill station town nestled in the mountains and within the embrace of clouds. We took a cheap room, US$4 a night, one without views. We figured we’d be out in the scenery, not inside our hotel looking at it. And besides, with the fog, there were no views anyway. Everything looked as if it had a piece of white tissue paper laid over it.

We were in Sapa to trek and stay overnight in a village. There are many tour operators in Hanoi offering 2-3 day treks with homestays, but we’d left Hanoi intent on doing the trek on our own. However, once in Sapa, we signed up with a group at our hotel. Trekking with a local guide would be much better than going it alone. Plus there are permits to be had, inclement weather, and zillions of trails.

The trek takes us up and down steep rocky trails, over streams and rivers, through mud and fields and rice paddies. Children ride on the backs of water buffalo; clouds of dragon flies linger languidly in the sky; small red bridges like mini “Golden Gates” hang over rushing rivers; women’s hands stained blue from dye proffer local handicrafts; water falls stream over mountainsides; giant bamboo trees rustle in the breeze; white, blue, and gray fills the sky; terrace fields resemble topo maps, the lines of elevation in an architectural model, layered cake; soundless lightening fills the night sky.

It was the wet season in Sapa, with heavy rains in the forecast for our two days. When it rained, the water dumped down, swelling rivers and making dirt trails slick mud obstacles. We passed through several villages along the hike and stopped to stay the night in a rustic home located next to a river and fields of corn. In the distance water spilled over the mountain against a wall of rock. Our home for the night was simple — a construction of concrete, wooden boards, and corrugated metal. After a powerful evening rain storm, the river swelled and raged, making a thunderous noise. The WC, in a precarious position along the riverbank, became too dangerous to use… a shack of woven bamboo, it looked like it could be swept away at any minute, even in the best of weather.

It’s always a desire to pass through such places as if invisible, to see people living their lives as if there was no tourist trail. But it’s not so. Hill tribe women and young girls crowd around to sell souvenirs throughout the day. Along the path and at the homestay, there was a constant group of Hmong and Zao women and girls selling their wares. The Montagnards (the French name for the hill tribe people) used to grow opium, but a crackdown by the government has put a stop to this — many sell souvenirs instead. The tourist dollar is important to these people — and as we come there, invading their villages and homes, gawking (politely or impolitely), it is insensitive to complain about it. And besides, they are friendly people, so the sales pitch was tolerable… and creative.

“You buy from me,” they’d say, all 20 of them gathered ’round with fists full of handicrafts for sale. Embroidered pillowcases and blankets, hats, purses, tin earrings, bracelets, necklaces, musical instruments, toy tops. The little girls put bracelets on our wrists, declaring us to be friends. “We are friends,” they’d say with a smile. A little while later, they’d say, “We are friends, so you buy from me.”

–Cheryn Flanagan

Read more Viator blog posts about Vietnam, or browse our complete list of things to do in Vietnam, tours in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. There are also photos of Vietnam over on the Viator flickr page.

Rose Hall Plantation, Jamaica

More than a million travelers each year come to Jamaica for the beautiful beaches and tropical climate. No doubt a few come for sex or drugs. Either way travelers looking for a tropical paradise are often less interested in learning about Jamaica’s sordid past. Jamaica provides an excellent example of how tourism can get the upper hand in a poor country, because in Jamaica history — specifically the sordid and horrid history of the slave trade — has been placed in the background while entertaining visitors is given top priority.

Perhaps there is no better place in Jamaica to illustrate this than the Rose Hall plantation. The plantation resides on a beautiful and calm grassy hill close to the tourist center of Montego Bay, where it offers a stunning view of the Caribbean ocean. Once upon a time this was one of Jamaica’s most prosperous plantations, called “the greatest of the Great Houses”. According to a widespread myth, the estate has a violent history. In the 1820s, when Annie Palmer was mistress of Rose Hall, she is said to have killed three of her husbands and thousands of her slaves. Today, the plantation has been transformed into a tourist attraction and those visiting are presented something quite different than a solemn historical site.

On the grounds where the plantation slaves worked themselves to death there is now a golf course, while the fields closer to the house are available for up-scale weddings. The only building that has been preserved is the magnificent Great House, built by slaves in 1770. The guided tour of the premises revolves around this house and its riches. Inside of the house, the guide focus on detailed descriptions of the exquisite furniture, the beautiful silk wallpaper and 18th-century art work.

Occasionally she also provides a gruesome anecdote about the many slaves who resided here. We are told that when slaves were inside the house they had to constantly whistle. Otherwise they were accused of stealing food, and beheaded. The worst stories are about children being tortured, whipped for spilling water, but all anecdotes and historical facts are told in an entertaining style, intercepted by jokes, as if it were details in a thrilling ghost story.

Annie Palmer herself is of course a thoroughly intriguing character that is not left alone by the guide’s narrative. Remarkably enough, slavery is never mentioned to explain her legendary cruelty. Instead, Palmer is portrayed as an exciting white witch, a fascinatingly wicked woman “gone native” because of her black voodoo-practising nanny. An earlier lady of the house is even called “the good mistress”, an expression which bluntly suggests that slavery can be a beneficial system if only governed by a “good” slave master. In spite of all the bloody details, the complete amnesia about slavery is the scariest thing about Rose Hall.

The tour ends in a place of death and terror — the prison dungeons — although they are now turned into a chic gift shop where only a dusty old bear-trap tell of a bloodier history (because there are no bears in Jamaica, bear traps were used to capture runaway slaves). The slaves, ancestors of the majority of Jamaica’s modern population, are placed in the background as anonymous victims, much in the same way as they were treated by Annie herself.

The Rose Hall plantation is located nearby the Rose Hall Highway, 9 miles (15 km) east of Montego Bay. The plantation is open for visitors daily 9am to 6pm, with the last tour starting at 5:15pm.

–Emilia Ljungberg

Planning a trip to Jamaica? Browse Viator’s complete list of tours in Montego Bay, things to do in Negril, Ocho Rios activities, and sightseeing in Trelawny.

Just as I was narrowing the field in my travel wishlist, Kelly beat me to the post (literally!) and blogged her Top Ten Travel Wishes. However, it takes more than a similar theme to dissuade me from my need to blog, so here are the Top 10 destinations on my travel wishlist.

Narrowly beating Dubai to squeeze in at number 10 is Aitutaki Island in the Cook Islands. Since seeing it on a travel show years ago, I have longed to see the perfect white sands and crystal blue waters of this remote island. A colleague honeymooned in the idyllic location late last year and now I have heard it first hand, my yearning grows stronger every day.

Sitting happily at number 9 is Monaco, the ultimate French Riviera destination. Of course, I would love to go there for the Formula One Grand Prix some time, but failing the long awaited lottery win that would be needed to do that, I will settle for a lap in a hired sports car followed by a night of modest gambling at the world famous casino.

The number 8 position is taken by the only North American entry - New York City. There’s just something about New York that calls my name, what that is…I guess I’ll find out when I get there.

In at number 7 is Rio de Janiero for Carnival. As if the Christ Redeemer statue and Copacabana Beach are not a big enough inticement, but add in the colorful annual carnival and you are looking at a whole lot of fun.

At number 6 is Asia’s entry on my list - China. Xi’an’s Terracotta Warriors, The Great Wall of China and without a doubt my main reason for wanting to travel to China, the Giant Pandas.

Halfway there with Lapland at number 5. I can’t believe I have not been there yet, reindeers, huskies, Santa Claus, snowmobiles, the eerie midnight sun … what more can you ask for in a winter wonderland holiday?

Occupying the number 4 position is my representative from Australia. All the way over in Western Australia is a beautiful place called Ningaloo Reef - or the “other Great Barrier Reef” as it is commonly known. The coral is pristine, the marine life abundant and the crowds non existent. However, come April/May through to July the waters become a little bit more crowded as the giant Whale Sharks arrive for their annual visit.

A messy entry at number 3 is the La Tomatina festival in Bunol, Spain. The world’s largest Tomato fight occurs every August in this small Spanish village and involves thousands of people throwing tomatoes at each other - this should be on every travelers list!

The runner up at number 2 will be crossed off my list when I travel to Egypt in September to see the Great Pyramids and Sphinz of Giza. They are the only one of the original “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World” still standing and must surely be one of the greatest sights to be seen in this world.

And drum roll please for my undisputed number 1 …

Southern and Eastern Africa

Yes I realise this is a large “destination” but if I split it into the individual countries and cities, we will be here all day! A bit of wine tasting and shark viewing in Cape Town, a dash of adventure in Victoria Falls, wildlife spotting on safari in Kenya and Tanzania, some seriously huge sand dunes in Namibia, and of course, my ultimate, ultimate of all things to do in Africa - Gorilla Trekking in Uganda.

Now the challenge really begins - crossing them off my things to do list, and adding them to my things I’ve done list…

-Kerrie O’Mahony