Archive for June, 2007

Cape Cod Dunes

Some may say that nominating oneself for traveler of the week is a bit tacky. I say, bite me. You have a better traveler of the week nomination? Leave a comment (minus points for you if you nominate the guy who flew with TB).

As you know from other posts, I’d rather travel than have a party to celebrate my birthday, and even though this birthday was a big one, it was no exception. I usually shy away from the beach vacation, but I really needed a break and some time doing nothing but staring at clouds and eating lobster rolls. So last weekend we headed out to Cape Cod.

I want to say we did a lot, saw a lot and have a ton of great pictures. The reality is we did very little, saw mostly sand and sky, and didn’t even take many pictures. Which was perfect. The highlight of the trip was taking a water taxi from Chatham to the small dune of South Beach. The boat drops you off and asks what time you want them to come back, then you’re on your own with the dunes, shells, sea lions and not much else. Given how crowded the Cape’s beaches get on the weekend, this was perfect. We weren’t the only ones there, but everyone was spaced so far apart you couldn’t hear a thing but the sea.

Captain Frosty’s wins for perfect lobster roll. Sundae School had the best ice cream. The salt water taffy I brought back did not last long in Viator’s San Francisco office. Anything that looks like a shack on Cape Cod has great food.

A whale painted ala Edward Gorey

We stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast in Dennis, that had delightful owners. Scargo Manor sits on Lake Scargo, which is the picture of tranquility (no motorboats allowed!). Sitting in an adirondack chair by the lake reading was how I spent a good chunk of my birthday. The other half of the day was spent visiting Edward Gorey House. I’m a big fan of his artwork, so seeing his house, now a museum, was a treat. The most taxing activity of the weekend was the 18 holes of mini-golf we played. Exhausting.

Usually I think I’ll be bored by a beach vacation, how long can you do nothing for before it gets boring? The answer: apparently quite awhile as I wasn’t ready to leave after nearly four days of doing pretty much nothing. Reinvigorated, rejuvenated and a decade older, I reluctantly headed home. For giving into the urge to do nothing, and because it was my birthday, I nominate myself as traveler of the week.

– Kelly G

If you’re in Cape Cod, do like I did and spend a day visiting its noisy neighbor, Boston.

Big push for the line

Editor’s Note: This is the third in a series of posts about the 2007 Rugby World Cup from Ian Frentz, who’s taking 10 weeks off work here at Viator to follow the matches (every single match) live in France.

In the run-up to the tournament, we’ve asked Ian for his tips and predictions. Last week he tipped winners in Pools A and B. This week he’s turning his attention to Pools C & D.

Rugby World Cup Picks: Pool C

NEW ZEALAND

• World Champions – 1987
• Current IRB ranking – 1st

What can you say about the mighty New Zealand All Blacks? Ranked number one in the world with a fearsome reputation that goes back to when the first player strapped the boots on in the 1800s. They have only won the Rugby World Cup once, and that was the inaugural tournament back in 1987. Always the raging favorite, they have an uncanny knack (some say it’s a curse) of stumbling at the final hurdle.

Rugby in New Zealand is a religion – part of the very DNA of every Kiwi, and when the All Blacks play they have 4 million rabid spectators backing them. A win is always expected, but when they don’t the natural order of the universe is thrown and the entire country goes into depression. I was inconsolable for a week when they were knocked out of the 2003 Rugby World Cup (it didn’t help that my wife is the biggest Wallaby fan to walk the earth). The coaching brains divided the country earlier this year, when they pulled 22 of New Zealand’s top players out of the Super 14s competition for a ‘Reconditioning Program’, so the likes of Dan Carter, Richie McCaw and Carl Hayman could become stronger, fitter and faster.

Prediction: Pundits around the world have labeled them tournament favorites, as they have done in nearly every past world cup. The form they have shown over the last couple of years is phenomenal, with only one loss from twelve in 2006 (to South Africa, in Rustenburg). There is a small part of me that is convinced Richie McCaw will be lifting a small golden cup on the 20th October (but I don’t want to jinx the boys). They’ll breeze through the pool games, but once they get to the quarter-final stage, anything could happen. Ireland could get a lucky bounce of the ball, France could be inspired by the home fans, South Africa could be just too good. I’m crossing all my fingers and toes, and praying to the rugby gods for an All Black win.

SCOTLAND

• Current IRB ranking – 11th

When the crowd belts out ‘Flower of Scotland’ from the stands at Murrayfield it can lift the hair on the back of your neck, and the men in navy blue lift as well. Scotland has a long and proud rugby history, winning their first international game in 1871 against the old enemy England (the very first international test match between two countries). However, the last few seasons have been lean ones with Scotland struggling in the Six Nations tournament. Murrayfield is no longer the fortress it once was, with the Scottish Rugby Union struggling to fill the stadium for even its most premier matches.

Prediction: The bonnie highlands lads can count themselves lucky their Pool C draw, which some regard as the weakest pool (with the exception of the All Blacks). However, the Scots may be quaking in their rugby boots, as last time they met Italy (one of the Tier Two nations), earlier this year in the Six Nations tournament, they were soundly trounced by Italy. This was at Murrayfield and was highly embarrassing for the Scots. Whether they progress to the quarter-finals may hinge on the pool game against the Italians. If the Italians cause another upset it could be the end of the 2007 Rugby World Cup for the Scots.

ITALY

• Current IRB ranking – 9th

You would think that in Italy, where that round-ball game is so passionately followed, that rugby union wouldn’t get a look in. However, the popularity of rugby in Italy is steadily on the rise. Rugby union has been played in Italy, predominately in the north, since the late 1920s. Since they joined the premier northern-hemisphere competition in 2000 (when the Five Nations became the Six Nations) the national team has gone from strength to strength, and can upset their more fancied rivals.

The Azurri have played in all five previous Rugby World Cups, but have never quite made the quarter-finals.

Prediction: Italy’s crunch match will be against Scotland, and if they can win that and the lesser-fancied teams in their pool, then they will achieve the quarters for the first time. Their superstars like Ramiro Pez, Mauro Bergamasco and Alessandro Troncon play in the tough French club competition and will know what it takes to upset Scotland. Italy versus Scotland will be one of the tightest and hardest-fought matches of the tournament.

ROMANIA

• Current IRB ranking – 15th

Romania, nicknamed The Oaks, is regarded as one of the top Tier Two nations in Europe. They play in the European Nations Cup, the next level of northern-hemisphere competition after the Six Nations, and they have always performed well. There are about 200 Romanians playing in the professional competitions of France and Italy. Rugby was introduced to Romania by students returning with from their studies in Paris, in the 1910s. During the communist regime rugby prospered – every international success was presented as a result of communist rule and ideology. With the decline of communism and the rise of professionalism in sport, the game suffered in Romania, with player numbers falling by 75% from its heyday in the 1980s. Over the last few years the decline of The Oaks has been stopped and the team has started to climb international rankings.

Prediction: The Oaks have played in every Rugby World Cup since 1987, and, with the exception of 1995, have always managed one win in the pool games. This time around it’ll be no different with one win over the easy-beat in their pool, Portugal (although Portugal have beaten Romania in the European Nations Cup), but they won’t get past the pool stages.

PORTUGAL

• Current IRB ranking – 21st

Congratulations to Portugal, who has made the Rugby World Cup for the first time ever! ‘Os Lobos’, or The Wolves, became the first totally amateur team to do so, by progressing through the qualifying rounds, and beating Uruguay to the final repechage spot by one point! Several players were subsequently arrested in the ensuing celebrations as a result of an altercation with local police. Happily, no charges were laid. Portugal has been playing rugby since 1935, and have since become fairly adept at the Sevens version of the game. In recent years Portugal, a Tier Three nation, has experienced unprecedented success and recorded some impressive results. Their 15-man team competes in the European Nations Cup, where they were surprise winners of the 2003-04 competition.

Prediction: Whilst Portugal has upset Romania in past games, it will be difficult to do in the atmosphere of a World Cup match. Portugal will struggle against Scotland and Italy, and the game against the All Blacks will be an outright slaughter. Welcome to the big time Wolves.

Rugby World Cup Picks: Pool D

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Editor’s note: Anthony Lye has been traveling around Spain, checking in with us as he goes. His last post was about short breaks in Madrid.

Casa Cervantes in Valladolid, Spain

Set amidst the desolate, sweeping rural plains of Castilla, the small bustling city of Valladolid boasts a population of over 300,000 with an energetic ambience to match. Despite a large student community, the once de facto capital of imperial Spain lies somewhat off the typical tourist trail, a factor that in my opinion only adds to its appeal. With its narrow streets, dozens of tapas bars and a fine sprinkling of top-notch monuments and museums, Valladolid deserves a couple of days’ attention. Here are my picks for Valladolid.

National Museum of Sculpture

El Museo Nacional de Escultura is Spain’s top exhibition of polychrome wood sculpture, housed in the eye-catching former Colegio de San Gregorio (College of St Gregory), a few blocks north-east of the main plaza. The two buildings that make up the museum are very different. One is the memorial chapel, with a relatively simple structure and fine sculptural ornamentation. The other is the Palace of Villena, with its splendid patio enclosed by two levels of galleries linked by majestic staircases.

The best-known works of Alonso Berruguete, Juan de Juni and Gregorio Fernández dominate many of the gallery rooms, their sculptures’ wonderfully detailed facial expressions offering first-rate examples of Spain’s rich plastic art history from the 16th and 17th centuries. Yet these are by no means the only works on offer, and the real highlights of any tour of the museum must include the the magnificent detail of El Belén Napolitano – the room-sized Neapolitan Nativity Crib – and the fantastic collection of Bulls and Bullfighters (Toros y Torero). Opening hours are 10.00 to 14.00, and 16.00 to 18.00 Tuesday to Saturday, and 10.00 to 14.00 on Sundays. Entrance fee €2.40 (€1.20 students).

The Cervantes House Museum

The writer Miguel de Cervantes (author of Don Quijote) was briefly imprisoned in Valladolid, and his house is preserved in a quiet area known as the Rastro de los Carneros, south of the main plaza. Set behind a peaceful little garden, the museum is a quaint reconstruction of how the rooms may have appeared during the writer’s lifetime. Making your way through the corridors and bedrooms, you can imagine Cervantes writing novels such as El licenciado Vidriera (The Glass Graduate) which portrayed the characters and landscapes of local life. Opening hours are 9:30 to 15:00 Tuesday to Saturday, and 10:00 to 15:00 on Sundays. Entrance fee €2.40.

The Columbus Museum

La Casa-Museo de Colón replicates the house in which Christopher Columbus lived before his death in the city in 1506, and is now an interesting museum covering three floors, in which the age of exploration is chartered, with antique maps and a diverse collection of Aztec, Incan and Mayan art all featuring prominently. Be warned that the guide pamphlets are in Spanish only, as are the item descriptions. Opening hours are 10:00 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 20:30 from Tuesday to Sunday. Entrace fee €2.

The Cathedral and surroundings

Although La Catedral is currently under heavy scaffolding and reconstruction, but is still very much worth a visit, if only for the fine alterpiece by Juní. When I last visited, the roof was leaking heavily following a downpour, although I found this strangely added to the interior atmosphere! Nevertheless, it is to be hoped that the cathedral will be fully restored at some point soon. Aside from that, the nearby Iglesia de Santa María la Antigua is a an interesting 14th-century Gothic church with a fine Romanesque tower that looks beautiful when lit up at night time. A couple of blocks east of the cathedral lies the Colegio de Santa Cruz, an early Renaissance structure that features a three-tiered and colonnaded patio, with Fernández’ Cristo de la Luz sculpture dominating the chapel.

Plaza de San Pablo

El Campo Grande, Valladolid, Spain

Located a few blocks north-east of the main plaza, this picturesque square is sandwiched between the Palacio de Pimentel (birth place of Felipe II) on one side and the church of St Paul (Iglesia de San Pablo) on the other. The church’s façade is an awesome display of Gothic architecture, with the stone finely worked and twisted producing a unique texture. The palace itself features an outstanding tiled mural in the entrance hall, showing scenes from the king’s life.

El Campo Grande

This large park to the south of the main plaza is a nice place to wander around in peace away from the buzzing city centre. With flamboyant peacocks freely roaming amongst the greenery, and a refreshing fountain, the park is a good place to relax and unwind. It also lies opposite El Figón de Recoletos, one of the very best (and expensive) restaurants in Valladolid, renowned for its meat dishes. Expect a meal here to set you back €35.

Valladolid’s Nightlife, Bars & Restaurants

Like most Spanish cities, Valladolid oozes an abundance of bars, cafés and restaurants. The area to the north of the cathedral in particular is littered with attractive joints for sampling local tapas and Spanish drinks. Your best bet is simply to try one and then move along – you’re sure to find a few favourites.

Personally I found two or three nice tapas bars along Calle Prado and Calle San Martín three blocks north of the cathedral, such as Taberna Casablanca and Venta del Fraile. Nearer the centre, Mil Tapas is good for chupitos (shots). Also be sure to check out El Doctorado if you visit the Casa-Museo de Colón. A pretty cool café bar, its walls are adorned with black and white world city scenes, and a coffee costs just a euro.

Las Brasas is a good-quality, relatively inexpensive place to eat if you like your steak and fine wine. Another personal recommendation is Restaurante Zamora, which features friendly service, good wine and decent Spanish food in a pleasant, cozy setting.

For clubs, you could do worse than to just follow the crowds (or even better, just ask them), but Sotobanco is certainly a highly rated indie-oriented hive that is popular with students, while just across from the cathedral is a jazz club that certainly looks worth checking out.

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip to Spain? Browse Viator’s list of tours in Madrid, things to do in Barcelona, Costa del Sol tours and a half-dozen other destinations.

Fossil site in France

For anyone who read my bio on the Viator blog you know that I was an evolutionary psychology major. Don’t ask how I got into website marketing - maybe some day I’ll write a blog post about the correlation between marketing and evolution or the evolution of marketing or the marketing of evolution. Have I lost you?

I’ll get to the point - today is an exciting day for evolutionary psychologists. The State Department gave approval for Lucy to tour the U.S. on exhibit. Let me refresh your memory - Lucy is a 3.2 million year old skeleton that was unearthed in Ethiopia. She is the earliest know hominid and is classified as an Australopithecus afarensis, which lived in Africa between about 4 million and 3 million years ago. Due to the structure of Lucy’s pelvis and leg bones scientists concluded that she walked upright like modern humans. At the time of her discovery she was the oldest known hominid fossil, and therefore she has become very famous.

The Smithsonian has rejected Lucy’s visit. They believe artifacts such as Lucy are too fragile to travel and think she should remain in her home. Other U.S. cities, however, will be welcoming Lucy. Lucy goes on display at the Houston Museum of Natural Science August 31 to April 20, 2008. The other stops have not been finalized, but Washington, New York, Denver and Chicago have been rumored. I’ve been known to frequent the American Museum of Natural History in NYC just about every time I go there and I did stop at various evolution exhibits and sites while backpacking through Europe (Traveling exhibit in Barcelona, Lascaux cave in France, the Heidelberg jaw in Germany). Once I find out where Lucy’s headed, I’ll be there.

I don’t imagine I’ll be making any trips to Houston soon and since her travel itinerary has not been set I’m going to keep my fingers crossed that Lucy makes it to California. Who’s coming with me?

-Christine Cramer

Melissa just sent through a great story from TechCrunch about a new internet start-up.

The website is MizPee.com. The tag line is “Where to go on the go.”

Can you guess what the site is about? Yup, it’s a new service to help you find the nearest bathroom (or loo, for our foreign readers) in cities across the USA.

According to the site: “MizPee finds the closest, cleanest toilet and gives you entertaining reading material once you get there. Since the service is cell phone-based, it’s always with you, when you really need it.”

MrPee.com?

If you want to try it out, send an SMS to +1 - 415 - 350 2290 with your city and state in the message (e.g., New York, NY).

I can’t decide whether this is a brilliant idea, or a brilliantly bad idea. Judging by the comments on TechCrunch, I’m not alone.

Reactions range from “…this marks the beginning of the end for Web 2.0., are people really running out of good ideas?” all the way to “I’m working on a website that identifies where people are farting, and can send you an SMS letting you know to stay away from those poor smelling areas. Currently seeking $4.5MM in funding if anyone is interested.”

(Wow, I should spend more time reading TechCrunch.)

So thank you MizPee for making my day. Good luck with the business, I hope your burn rate is low.

–Scott McNeely

More on travel, toilets and the need to go on the go: Ode to the Commode and Reflections on Delhi Belly, La Turista and the Cairo Curse

A rainy Bank Holiday in London seems a good opportunity to lay out for you my 6 steps to a happy London visit. I’ve been a regular visitor for years but don’t worry. I’m not going to rabbit on about rich history, something around every corner, historical treasures’ etc. That’s all true enough but it doesn’t get you off to a flying start right? Well, here you go…

Think: Transit Pass

Tip #1: Oyster Card. Buy it.

It’s the only time you ever need to deal with tickets for public transport for the underground (”tube”) and bus.

Step 1: Go to the ticket window
Step 2: Say “I’d like an Oyster card please and £10 credit thanks”. The card itself is £3 or £10, and will probably see you through a week’s sightseeing.
Step 3: Swipe the card at the ticket barrier or on the bus as you enter and leave.

Cheaper than single tickets and you’ll instantly feel like a local as you swipe in and out. Simply top it up when it beeps.

Tip #2: Buses. Ride ‘em.

The Tube is Your Oyster

Now that you’ve mastered the Tube with your Oyster Card, try not to take it again. Get on a bus. Sit upstairs. At the very front (the Holy Grail of seats). Now you can see where you’re going, and London looks brilliant from up here! It’s like one big Olde Worlde-themed Disney ride. You’ll be surprised y how close some of the tube stations actually are. (You could crawl from Embankment to Charing Cross in less time). Use the easy-to-read route maps at bus stops or ask people. Pick up a timetable from the hotel. In fact forget the timetable. Just get on a bus and go. You can always get off, cross the road and ride it back…

Tip #3: Time Out. Read it.

It’s the weekly BIBLE for all things on in London. It’s not just a tourist mag - locals love it, too. Clubs, comedies, 17th-century Doll Museums, one-off exhibitions, and “Editors Picks” to help when all the museums and choices seem overwhelming. Plus witty columns dedicated to things like “Lies to tell tourists” or “Conversations overheard on the Tube”. Even a TV guide…

Tip #4: Pubs. Sit in ‘em.

Why? They have brilliant names like The Pineapple and Radiator, many are older than the countries we come from (at least for convicts), and they’re EVERYWHERE. A pint is really no bigger than an up-sized McDonald’s soda, so don’t give me that look. Try a reverently hand-drawn ale. Ask the barman to suggest one. A pint of Speckled Hen is nice and I like the name. Or cider. Or a cold draught beer. Most serve food, too - try a “Toad in the Hole”, a sausage baked into a big puffy pastry dish that itself is called Yorkshire Pudding. Delicious. (While you’re thinking about pubs, try an historic pub tour on for size.)

Tip #5: The London Eye. Up you go.

Luke with his camera phone, on a bus!

This huge Ferris Wheel is touristy, iconic and fun. Best of all it gives you a handle on how the city’s laid out (great for future exploring) and you’ll see everything at once. London as the Monopoly board you remember as a kid. (Another tip: you can book London Eye tickets; the reviews for this are fantastic.)

Tip #6: Musicals. See one.

I do bang my own drum, and I can shout out “I am what I am” but I don’t know every word to Cabaret nor can I debate the merits of “kick-ball-change” and “spirit fingers”. But West End shows are FUN! In fact The Drowsy Chaperone is one that’s currently playing that sends up the whole musical genre (while you still get to enjoy the best bits of a musical). So if you’re allergic to Cats and Les Miserables makes you les miserable, this one’s for you. Go on, dinner and a show in London.

–Luke Crosthwaite

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s full list of tours and things to do in London, from West End show tickets to Black Taxi tours.

I had the good fortune to meet a Dutch avant-garde percussionist traveling through Berlin, and accepted an invitation to visit and discover the alternative wildness of Amsterdam. Now allow me to share some of the riotous and authentic flavors of one of the most sophisticated and urbane of Europe’s cities. This trip through Amsterdam’s wild side is outside the well-trodden paths of museums, monuments and manufactured culture. Please keep reading, but only if you enjoy the idiosyncratic wanderings along the byways and peripheries of Amsterdam.

Westergasfabriek Wilderness

Waternatuurin in Amsterdam

The park behind Amsterdam’s Westerpark is fabulously wild and rambling, with a nature reserve (Waternatuurin) for water birds, a series of wooden walkways and a Huckleberry Finn-style floating pontoon for the adventurous at heart. There is a lovely children’s farm with horses, goats and cows – look for the building with a grass-covered roof. And you can hang out with the ducks in any of the ponds, or splash in the water with the kids.

Now walk across the bridge from Haarlemmerplein, diagonally through the Westerpark, and up the hill behind the watercourse (which is filled with children swimming and people sunbathing on anything resembling a warm day). Keep walking along this path behind the Westergasfabriek and continue until you see the hideous rust-colored, concrete sculpture in the water. This is the start of the reserve, where winding paths through the rushes give you access to another world. You can walk all the way along to Admiraal de Ruijter Weg, past a series of country garden cottages and the most beautiful variety of purple wildflowers (and with not a tulip in sight!).

Follow the road back along Haarlemmerweg to discover the revitalized industrial arts centre Westergasfabriek, home to the excellent Bakkerswinkel (for pastries) and to Pacific Parc (for addicts who need wifi every day, fresh mint tea and dancing). There is a contemporary film program at Ketelhuis, and the music venue Flex Bar that features international artists.

Culture Vulture

Now and then I find myself venturing into the arena of contemporary art for a glimpse of what the cool kids are doing. I like to sample the cutting-edge of media art and experimental kunst at de Appel Arts Centre and Montevideo, both along Keizersgracht. If you crave more culture, try an art walk through Amsterdam, highlighting the cream of local talent.

When you find yourself hungry and in need of caffeine after all that art, head for the best bakery in town to replenish your energy. Bakkerij Mediterrane (at the Jordaan end of Haarlemmerdijk) serves a champignon pizza, which is a sublime concoction of flaky puff pastry, mushrooms, herbs and cheese; their chocolate croissants give you a rich gooey decadent breakfast. Koffie Verkeed is the translation for café latte – coffee the “wrong way” – the Dutch are such control freaks. If you become a regular, one day you may even find your photo up on the blue tiled walls. Don’t expect fast service, be patient and enjoy the ambiance of bustling conviviality.

You can also wander along Haarlemmerstraat to Papabubble for the most delicious hand-made lollies on earth, and explore the diverse collection of clothes, hardware, books, live birds and knick-knacks in this unique shopping street, which you can explore virtually via nl streets, the best interactive city guide I’ve found anywhere.

Buttons, buttons, buttons at an Amsterdam market

Stroll down to the children’s playground at Herrenmarkt for a glimpse of Dutch family life, where you can wiggle your toes in the sandpit while reflecting on the politics of children’s play. On Saturday the Noordermarkt (corner Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht) can supply every need from organic vegetables to fresh cheese and bread, lovingly made crepes with sugar and lemon, or buttons, beads and baubles amongst the antique stalls.

There is also a vibrant fabric market here on Monday morning until 1pm, rich in colors and textures.

Sudden Music

Amsterdam has a thriving and diverse music scene with improvised delights every night. Try Zaal 100 on Wednesdays after 6pm for the vegetarian café serving a 3-course meal (only 5 euro). This is a relic of the famous Amsterdam squat culture, one of the remaining active venues that hold to the tradition of free-form living and music. The audience is an interesting mix of counterculture characters, younger music aficionados and alternative living types. You could easily be one of them. The bar serves cheap drinks, and if you ask for a vodka be prepared for half a glass of straight spirits. Bimhuis is a legendary jazz venue, with a new home in a very cool building overlooking the harbor behind central station. The Overtoom 301 offers an eclectic program of film, improvised electronic and acoustic music and dance in the centre of town and the slogan “No Culture without Subculture”. Indeed.

Walk with the Walrus in Bossa Nova

In the mood for an Amsterdam walk with a sculptural theme? Start on the bridge over Admiralengracht at Jan van Galenstraat. Look for the Arctic explorer with walruses, it’s my favorite. Every curve of their little round forms is lovingly carved, and the tusks and moustache are particularly fine. Across the road, the famous socialist artist Hildo Krop becomes even more ambitious, with curling waves splashing onto the ship, and hidden around the corner is a maiden with flowing tresses, guarding the stairs down to a nondescript apartment block. There is something so alive about these sculptures, I try to visit them whenever I can, and found more decadent adornment by the same artist across the city, which you can find on the Hildo Krop Bruggenroute.

Back to Bos en Lommer, you are now poised to wander through the Erasmus Park, enjoying the scented herb garden, maybe joining a game of soccer with local kids, or just taking in the rambling greenery. Along the canal is a great place to sit and watch life go by, the two modernist apartment buildings become a post-modern drama with vignettes of every day life played out through the windows. Walk up Egidiusstraat and turn right at Bos en Lommerweg to bar/café/theatre venue Podium Mosaiek, with friendly staff, an excellent multicultural performance program, free wifi and reasonably priced meals. The warme bakker yildiz across the road has excellent baklava, and the warme bakker next door makes delicious krentenbrood.

Art Café & Ethnographic Display

The temporary Stedlijk museum behind central station has the best view of Amsterdam from the café on the 11th floor, called simply Eleven. They serve excellent apple pie and cream, encourage drinking at lunch, and dancing with DJs and live music at night. I didn’t venture into the gallery, sometimes a glance at the catalogue and the gift shop is enough, although I did see a wonderful exhibition of 1960s and ’70s conceptual art at the old location a few years ago.

From here find your way down through the northeast edge of the city, along Gelderskade and past the Waterlooplein (which is home to a flea market on Saturday). During the week stop in to the anarchist bookstore Fort van Sjakoo on Jodenbreestraat, or have more apple pie at the café on the corner of St. Antonieesbreestraat overlooking the canal, and then continue along Plantage Middenlaan past the Zoo (look out for the dinosaurs and aquarium mural) and to the Tropen Museum. I have only been at night, so couldn’t see any of the exhibits, although the ethnographic displays look fascinating, and there is an imaginative children’s program and activities. The museum is another extraordinary piece of architecture, celebrating the Dutch fascination with the exotic in both the collection and a world music program including Gamelan and Tango Festivals at the Royal Tropical Institute (KIT). After spending a few weeks in flat, grey, rainy Amsterdam I can easily understand the desire to find warmer climates, and for a deeper reading of Dutch colonial history, highly recommend Simon Shama’s An Embarrassment of Riches.

Ships, Cranes & Freight Trains

Ships, Cranes & Trains in Amsterdam

A last treat for anyone who likes to watch trains and ships, find a bicycle, and go for a ride through the industrial Westpoort area towards Sloterdijk. Don’t worry if it’s raining and you don’t have any wet-weather gear, the Dutch seem fine without it and just get wet cycling every day. Spaarndammerstraat is the route along the ports, on the way you can visit the Ship Museum, which actually refers more to the structure than the exhibition. A residential building with ornate embellishments along the façade, it was designed in 1919 by Michel de Klerk, the prolific and inspired designer from the wild and unruly Amsterdam School of Architecture, a humanitarian socialist movement in public housing which provided imaginative and spectacular homes for the harbor and railway workers.

Ride past the Art Hotel, keep going on the left-hand side of the road and follow the bike path down along the railway line (Nieuwe Hemweg), for a fantastic view of the ships in Neptune’s Haven. Head towards the chimney stacks and high-tech windmills of the wind farm to follow the freight trains along their routes into a series of factories and shipyards. If you feel like an evening adventure, the cranes work until late at night, hoisting and twisting their articulated limbs in a strangely beautiful dance as they lift and move cargo on and off the ships. The area can feel a little deserted and solitary, but with the usual precautions and an eye for safety you will be perfectly fine. There is an excellent documentary Haven: Roaming Through the Night (Marjoleine Boonstra, 2004) about the residents and workers of the port area, now being redeveloped into apartments and offices. Wave hello as you cycle past the railway shacks!

–Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of Amsterdam tours and things to do or read more blog posts about Amsterdam.

Too busy to read the weekend travel news? No worries, here’s our take on the big and small travel stories this week.

• Poland officially requested UNESCO to approve renaming the Auschwitz Concentration Camp to a new name: the ‘Former Nazi German Concentration Camp Auschwitz-Birkenau’. Auschwitz is an official UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Poland needs their approval to make the switch. On the pro side: Poland is offended that many people assume Auschwitz was run by the Poles, when in fact it was a creation of the occupying Nazi German regime. On the con side: Some Jewish groups suspect Poland is attempting to ‘rewrite’ history by absolving the Poles of any guilt in their role at the death camp. Another con: Let’s be honest, the new name is simply not very good. More reading: Y Net News, Reddit
• The Pope (as in, the Popemobile-driving Benedict XVI) issued ‘10 Commandments for Drivers”, better known as the ‘Top 10 Things Christians Shouldn’t Do While Driving”. There aren’t many surprises on the list: motorists should not kill each other, should not drink and drive, should avoid foul language, should assist travelers in case of accidents. According to the Pope, cars can be “an occasion of sin” – particularly when they are used for dangerous passing or for prostitution! Benedict, is there something you want to tell us? More info: Viator Travel Blog, Wheels.ca
• Moscow, Russia, is the world’s most expensive city to live if you’re a foreign worker. This according to a new study that uses New York City (the most expensive in the U.S.) as a benchmark, and calculates the cost of living for foreign workers and expats in more than 200 cities worldwide. Apparently Moscow is 35% more expensive than New York. Rounding out the top 5 most expensive cities are London, Seoul, Tokyo and Hong Kong. And remind me — why do you want to live in Moscow? More info: News.com.au
• File this under ‘Ugly Americans’. Reuters is reporting that a 22-year-old American was arrested in Rome this morning, for taking a nude bath in the fountain at the foot of Rome’s Spanish Steps. He apparently disrobed before a crowd of tourists. The Italian police were not impressed. More info: Reuters UK

–Scott McNeely

Zagreb’s Main Square

The first time I flew into Zagreb, Croatia, was February 2005. The middle of winter. The plane approached a white field of snow. The only building I could see was a small shed painted with red and white checks. I wondered where on earth I’d been sent. I was there for four months for work. I’d never been to Eastern Europe before. And the first morning when I walked out of my hotel it was minus 17 degrees. Yikes.

Since then I have returned to Croatia about three times a year. I love it. The people, the atmosphere, the pace, the look. There’s just something about it that makes me happy.

This year I have arrived in late May. Nearly summer. Right now it’s warm but wet with spring rains. Like all of Europe at the moment, the weather is erratic, going from 25C (77F) one day to 11C (50F) the next. A crazy spring or global warming? I guess a pattern over months and years will tell us.

I get a taxi into the centre of town and immediately notice differences since I was here a year ago. Tourism has really taken hold of Zagreb. Or Zagreb has taken hold of tourism. There are signs everywhere: to the major hotels, to all the major places of interest and, if you’re still confused, to an information booth in the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelacica. Later, sitting on a café terrace, I am passed by no less than five groups of tourists with guides. I hear German, English, Japanese.

With any city, a guided tour can be a good idea to get your bearings and a bit of history and culture. But in Zagreb, the best thing to do is sit in a café or bar. It’s the local way and it’s what the city is all about. During summer every café springs up an outside terrace and they stay until it’s too unbearably cold to sit there. And people come and sit. And sit. And sit. Zagreb is all about seeing and being seen. Running into friends, checking out fashions, catching up with gossip.

Ilica, Zagreb

Fashion is high on the list in Croatia. It’s a country with one of the highest credit-card debts in the world, and it must come close to the greatest number of shoe shops per person. And the shoes are fabulous, and affordable. When I was living here, I collected an obscene number of shoes: Spanish, Italian, hand-made locally; they are all fantastic. One of the things that impresses me most is the height of the heels worn in a city with so many cobblestones.

One of my favourite streets to wander is Radiceva – probably because I used to live there. Coming off the main square, Jelacica, it has cafes and shoe shops, and heads up the hill towards the historic Stone Gate, site of the miraculous 16th-century Virgin Mary who survived a fire in 1731. This is a definite thing to visit. The last remaining gate of the original city walls (the eastern gate), it is dark with candle soot and there is always at least one person bent in prayer. One year, I was lucky enough to be in Zagreb on the day the city gives thanks to its patron saint Mary and I watched a parade of priests and nuns from many different churches, followed by thousands of citizens, making their way from the Cathedral to the Stone Gate. It was an incredible procession, very moving, with candles and singing.

The Cathedral is another must see. It has been under renovation for a few years now but is nearly finished and looks magnificent.

Another place to visit to really understand Croatian culture, and for its sheer beauty is Miragoj Cemetary. A short tram or taxi ride from the centre, it is truly magnificent with its colonnades and domes, lush trees and the splendour of the headstones. In Croatia, like much of Eastern Europe, cemeteries are not desolate, abandoned places. They are full of fresh flowers, candles burning, and families coming weekly to tend graves and pay their respects. One of the things that really struck me about this country was the strong sense of family, still enduring even in the face of capitalism and the global village.

It probably makes sense, being so close to Italy, but Croatia makes great pizza. Traditional Croatian food tends to be quite heavy and very meaty – as a vegetarian that is a challenge for me. Although I do eat fish and they do wonderful fish dishes here, especially and not surprisingly, on the coast. Zagreb is all about dining and drinking and there are endless places to choose from. One of the main streets to wander, drink and eat is Tkalciceva, also going off the main square near the Dolac market. Many side streets leading off here are full of cafes also.

But don’t expect breakfast places. In Croatia, breakfast is coffee and a cigarette. A friend and I once half-joked about opening a breakfast place here and the locals response: Why? When we explained the joys of eggs and mushrooms and hollandaise and French toast with maple syrup, they reached disgustedly for another rakija, the local firewater. Ironically, in the past year, two breakfast places have opened. I’m not sure how they are doing, and I haven’t been to them – they are a little expensive in Croatian terms, surely geared to the blooming tourist market, definitely not for the locals.

The cafe scene in Zagreb

And, for that matter, don’t expect smoke-free dining. Croatia is unlikely to go smoke-free before the next millennium – it’s a national pastime.

Do expect ice cream though. Very very good ice cream. Everyone eats it, day and night. The ice cream shops stay open almost as late as the bars. My favourites are on Bogaviceva and Ilica. Both easy to find, just follow the queues.

The main shopping street to wander is Ilica, the continuation of the central street running through the main square. A little way along Ilica, is Frankopanska where all the high-end designer shops are. Another shopping mecca is the Kaptol Centar up the end of Tkalciceva. And for food it’s Dolac Market, next to the main square where the locals shop and the food is fresh off the farm. I buy all my fruit and vegetables here and end up speaking a hilarious mixture of English, very limited Croatian with a few words of German thrown in for good measure.

If it seems as if everything happens around the main square, that’s because it does. In the evenings, it seems as if half the city is milling around in the square, either waiting to meet friends or hanging out. Just be careful of the trams thundering through the middle. This is also the place where music and Christmas displays and promotional events are held. There are often stages and tents being put up and taken down in the square. The statue of Josip Jelacic in the middle of the square commemorates an unsuccessful bid for Hungary led by Jelacic in 1848. It was removed by the Communists and, I have been told, when it was put back post-Tito and post-war, the powers that be decided to face it in a different direction. Jelacic used to brandish his sword at the Hungarians. Now he brandishes it at Serbia, for they are the more recent annoyance.

Croatians love sport so go to the football if you can and see passion in play. I went to a handball game just after Croatia won the world title. It was fantastic although the appearance of armed police surrounding the arena after the game indicated just how passionate these things sometimes get. Near the Dinamo football stadium is Maksimir Park, also worth a visit, but it is very large so allow a few hours. And rising just outside Zagreb is Mount Medvednica, great for walking is summer and with ski slopes in winter. All accessible by tram. As is my favourite: the Botanical Gardens. Not huge but the pond is full of tortoises. Tortoises! Fantastic.

I could go on. But I must go sit on a terrace and drink coffee, and contemplate my next shoe purchase now. Lucky me.

–Philippa Burne

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s list of tours and things to do in Croatia.

If you’re staying for just a few nights in Madrid — especially if this is your first visit — then there’s simply no point trying to cram in everything. Yet that does not mean you can’t make great use of a short visit. The following suggested itineraries in Madrid are highlights from my own recent weekend in the Spanish capital.

Day 1: Prado Museum, Palacio Real, Puerta del Sol

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

You should dedicate at least one morning or afternoon (or even both!) to El Museo del Prado, Spain’s most magnificent art museum, and certainly one of the finest museums in the world. (Note: Viator has a Madrid city sightseeing tour that includes free entry to the Prado Museum.) The Prado is best known for its awesome collection of works by the great three Spanish artists – Velázquez, Goya and El Greco – and you cannot but come away with a profound appreciation for Spanish art history. Yet you’d miss out if you ignored the rich collection of other European art, especially the Flemish and Italian art collections on the ground floor. By all means get the audio guide – it costs about €3 from the entrance in the main building, the Palacio de Villanueva, and it provides useful information on the great works you’ll see.

If you’re interested in more contemporary Spanish art, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is a must. Works from the cubism era, Picasso, Joan Miró and Dalí are all on display, as are displays from the 1980s by artists such as Eduardo Arroyo and Pablo Palazuelo. Added bonus: The museum’s awesome glass elevator has fantastic views of the plaza below.

Can’t get enough art? The go just opposite the Prado Museum on the Paseo del Prado (appropriately dubbed the ‘Paseo del Arte’ given the top museums that reside along the boulevard) to the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. It houses a comprehensive display of works from all eras, starting with medieval religious art right all the way through to Dalí, Lichtenstein and pop art. Again, I found the audio guides to be a great help (and they only cost €3).

The grand Palacio Real (Madrid’s Royal Palace) is another highlight on any first visit. Just a 10- to 15-minute stroll from the Plaza Mayor, the Palacio Real is a splendidly preserved building that, together with the adjacent Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena, makes up the dominant landmark that adorns Calle de Bailén at the western side of the city centre. Dozens of rooms are open for visiting, each seemingly crammed with priceless paintings, tapestries, statues and chandeliers that simply ooze imperial power. Lush gardens surround the complex on all sides: the French-style Jardine de Sabatini to the north, Campo del Moro to the west, Parque del Emir Mohammed I to the south, and Plaza de Oriente, complete with statues and fountains, to the east. This beautiful square is also worth a stop for a rest and some people watching, or even a drink from the pricey Café de Oriente.

Sightseeing Tip: If pushed for time, it is well worth taking in a quick tour of the city to get a feel for just what Madrid has to offer. The Madrid Vision hop-on hop-off bus is recommended, its orange double-decker buses featuring prominently on the busy streets. For €15 you can just sit back and relax whilst receiving a pretty comprehensive introduction to all the main sights. Expect a tour to take around 1.5 hours, although of course you are able to hop on or off at the stop of your choice.

El Retiro park, Madrid

After Dark: For those who like to party, which includes me, then the place to head to for the night is Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate). This used to be Madrid’s easternmost city gate, but is now the centre of the whole city. Thriving with street vendors, locals and tourists on the move, this square and its surroundings in Huertas and Atocha are possibly the liveliest area of town, with the narrow streets packed with bars and restaurants in the streets on the south side forming the hub of Madrid’s nightlife. It’s true there are tourist havens around here – in particular the numerous Irish bars – but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to find hip places that aren’t full of English-speakers. Far from it. For tapas and a chilled out vibe, La Taverna has a great atmosphere with friendly service making it still seem relaxing at 3 or 4am, while for a louder venue the Mona Lisa is definitely a hit with the Spanish crowd. With Latin clubs such as El Son continuing the vibe through to dawn, Madrid’s nightlife surely surpasses that of most capital cities.

Day 2: Parque del Buen Retiro, Calle de Fuencarral, Bullfighting at Las Ventas

What you do on your second day may well depend on how late you were out the night before. And you could do a lot worse than to visit the park of El Retiro. Strolling through its rich green expanses, observing Madrileño families and friends doing just the same, it’s difficult to imagine that this park was once the preserve of royals and their entourage. Thankfully times have changed, and a Sunday walk in the park is as much a part of the Madrid experience as tapas and late nights. Particularly under the fierce summer heat, lounging a while in the shade of the trees can provide a welcome respite from the fierce glare. Street performers do their stuff along the boulevards that surround the small lake, and you can also hire a rowing boat at the northern end at a cost of about €4 for a 45 minute stint on the water.

Plaza del Toros, Madrid

Calle de Fuencarral is also of interest, if not the first place that springs to mind on the typical tourist’s list. Just a 10-minute walk from the Puerta del Sol, not only are there some decent cheap hotels to stay round here, but there are also a mass of shoe and ‘alternative’ fashion shops lining the roadside. The Museo Municipal is located on the street, and offers a fairly interesting, if not comprehensive, history of the Madrid’s transformation into a modern capital city. There are also a couple of decent budget places to dine – La Comacha serves excellent paella and tapas, whilst Colby is a pretty cool restaurant where filling pasta, pizza and meat dishes can be purchased for €8-10. Add to this the hustle and bustle of the crowds on a weekend night, and it is clear this quirky neighbourhood can provide plenty of fun.

On Sunday evenings, from 7pm, bullfighting takes place at the grand Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas. Tickets go on sale at the box office outside the plaza from 10am until 2pm, and from 5pm till 8pm. Don’t be confused by signs on the side of the exterior indicating no tickets available – unless you attend during the Fiesta de San Isidro (May) or happen to be in town when a popular bullfight is on, then you’ll have no problem finding tickets.

Although certainly not for everyone, there is no doubting this is a very Spanish sport, and personally I found it fascinating to observe the spectacle of aficionados turning out in their thousands to watch the spectacle. You’ll find a whole cross-section of Spanish society here – from children and their parents to old men sporting hats and cigars, plus the wealthy enthusiasts observing proceedings from the comfort of the shade on the front row. Whilst it can be difficult not to think it somewhat macabre that so many thousands spend their Sunday evenings watching the matadors do their stuff on the sandy ring, few events are more closely identified with Spanish society.

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Madrid, things to do in Barcelona, or all 250+ things to do in Spain. You can also read more suggested itineraries in Madrid.