 |
| Taking a stroll at one of London’s many parks |
Editor’s Note: This is part of an ongoing series of budget-friendly things to do in London. You can also browse Viator’s budget London tours and full list of things to do in London.
Summer in London is unpredictable, from boiling one day to freezing and wet the next. But when it is warm, it’s glorious. And there’s only one thing I want to do when the sun is shining – grab my Travelcard and a picnic and get out into the parks and villages and explore London like the Londoners do.
Villages? Yes. London is actually just a series of villages that have fused into one megalopolis. And many of them have managed to resist the scourge of the High Street chain shops to retain their beauty and character. Here are some of my favourites for a cheap and great day out in London.
Hampstead and Highgate
High up in north London, these two pretty and historic areas border Hampstead Heath, 791 acres of parkland, some of it quite wild. The Heath is a great place to walk and the view of London from Parliament Hill is wonderful. There are also the natural bathing ponds if you get hot walking around, and if you’re thirsty, I suggest the beer garden at the nearby historic Spaniards Inn (Spaniards Road, Hampstead NW3, Tube: Hampstead; tel. +44 (0) 20 8731 6571), which has hosted William Blake, John Constable, Lord Byron and appeared in Charles Dickens’ Pickwick Papers and Bram Stoker’s Dracula. Current celebrity spotting in Hampstead includes Liam Gallagher of Oasis fame.
Highgate also has one of London’s best cemeteries. Opened in 1839 it’s still interring people today. There are cheap tours led by the Friends of Highgate Cemetery and it’s great for just wandering around; quite wild and full of cats and foxes. It’s the final resting place for Karl Marx, George Eliot and, more recently, Douglas Adams of Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy fame.
Regent’s Park
Closer in to the centre of London is Regent’s Park. I saw my first squirrel here so it will always remain close to my heart. Great rose gardens, a lake where you can hire a rowboat, and you can walk past the London Zoo and head up into Primrose Hill, another one of the beautiful villages on a hill, today popular with the famous and well-heeled, including Gwyneth Paltrow. As always in London, once you get here, there are cafes and pubs to sit in for a refreshing ale. Or two.
Hyde Park
Hyde Park is probably the best-known London park. Once a private hunting ground for King Henry VIII, it was turned over to the public in 1637. It’s over 350 acres of green space right in the heart of London. You can wander past Kensington Palace where Princess Diana lived, and visit her memorial fountain; walk alongside the Serpentine - the famous 11-hectare lake - and visit the Serpentine Gallery; or hear anyone and everyone giving their point of view at Speaker’s Corner. And keep a look out for concerts and films in the park in summer, many of which are free. Of course, no visit to Hyde Park would be right without a visit to the statue of Peter Pan, a homage to the children’s book by J.M. Barrie.
Richmond Park
Another ex-royal hunting ground is Richmond Park. And it’s still full of deer, 650 of them roaming freely around. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I first saw them. It’s great for cycling or for walking and is a designated National Nature Reserve. Nearby is Richmond, another lovely London village on the Thames River. Although bring a picnic here because Richmond’s cafes are not for a cheap meal, but it’s leisurely pace is perfect for lolling about in the sun with a glass of cheeky rose. Sometimes there’s even cricket to watch on the village green.
Greenwich
Further down the Thames towards the sea is Greenwich, another park and village combo. I highly recommend catching a ferry here from central London. You’ll see lots of the city on the way and approaching by water seems appropriate for this former fishing village. Sadly one of Greenwich’s most popular attractions, the tea clipper The Cutty Sark, was badly damaged in a fire in late May 2007 but there is still the Maritime Museum and Greenwich Market to visit and, of course, the thrill of being where time begins and ends, for this is the home of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), against which all our days are measured.
Crystal Palace Park
Lesser known, but high on my list and high on the hill in South London, is Crystal Palace Park. It’s the former home of the Crystal Palace, a metal and glass exhibition hall built in 1851 for the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park, then moved south in 1854 (and which burnt down in a dramatic fire in 1936 — the fire was so big my father watched it from right across London in Highgate).
 |
| Table for 4 at Crystal Palace Park |
But despite Crystal Palace no longer having its palace, the area has some of the best views of London, the air is clean and fresh, and it has the piece de resistance: the dinosaurs. Huge concrete dinosaurs sitting on islands in a pond. Built in 1853 for an exhibition at the palace, they are not quite anatomically correct due to the scarcity of accurate palaeontology at the time, but that’s half their charm. And their size is awesome – a dinner was held inside one of them for the launch on New Year’s Eve 1853.
The other thing I really love about Crystal Palace is the cheeselady – not her name but it’s what I call her. She has a van in Haynes Lane Market on Saturdays and sells the best cheeses from all over Britain. And her labelling makes your mouth water – it’s obvious she used to be in publishing. My recommendation is to visit her first, stock up on cheese, bread, wine then head for the dinosaurs.
So, in these summer days of blue skies and scary exchange rates, I recommend getting out of the West End and the expensive centre of London, and go see London in all its wild and green glory. Pack a hamper and roam. That’s what I do.
–Philippa Burne
Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in London, from black taxi city tours to London shows & musicals to day trips to Stonehenge, Bath and beyond. For more information on London’s farmers markets visit www.lfm.org.uk.