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| Reindeer - the Finnish Icon |
I was drawn to Helsinki by tales of an art lecturer about the wild and wonderful world of Finland, and a childhood love of Tove Jansson’s stories about the Moomintroll family. Their adventures included a summer floating in an abandoned theatre, the strange things that happened after a comet landed nearby, the entire family moving to a lighthouse on a tiny island, hibernating for winter after drinking pine needle cordial, and the arrival of spring which was marked by the return of Moonmintroll’s best friend Snufkin, a wandering musician.
Moomin characters such as the Fillyjonk (who believed in disaster), the mournful Hemulen and feisty Little My also enchanted my childhood, while the wonderfully philosophical Moominmamma’s Finnish pancakes (with strawberry jam and cream) provided an added enticement to visit this other world.
I have still never seen a comet, or lived in a lighthouse, but something about the Finnish people, landscape and worldview keep me returning.
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| Lake walking around to Linnunlaulu gothic mansion |
The closest I have come to a floating theatre was the ISEA Symposium, which took place on a ferry between Helsinki, Stockholm and Tallinn. This spectacular elegant ship-hotel was complete with disco, sauna, casino, restaurants and three spas including one located on the deck where you could watch the archipelago slowly drift by while soaking with an assortment of artists, curators and musicians. The highlight for me was watching a sea of people dancing on the ships TV and realising that it was happening live, getting up out of my cabin and joining the party with VJ Charles Kriel. The ship itself was also creating music as it navigated the Baltic Sea, like a giant record player with the ocean floor as the groove of the record. Created by Finnish/Hungarian artists Tuomo Taamenpaa and Tamas Szakal ‘FLOAT’ played a mesmerising series of minimalist tones, slowly changing in pitch and texture with the direction, depth and speed of the ship. Another key moment was having my genetic material sampled for the ‘Lifeboat’ project by Symbiotica members Oron Catts, Ionat Zurr, Guy Ben-Ary and Nigel Helyer. Part of their biotechnology tissue culture work dealing with concepts of sustainability, survival and notions of biological, cultural and ideological re-generation, and its obverse, the degradation of life and all its manifestations.
Even without the media artists on board, the one or two day cruise on the Baltic is a fantastic experience, looking out at the ice through glamorous polished wooden portholes, sampling the flavours of a magnificent buffet dinner, or watching the sea lap at tiny rock islands.
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| Crispy fried herrings at Hakaniemi Market |
I finally got to taste the Finnish pancakes at the Sea Horse, my favourite home-style Finnish restaurant after a particularly raucous artist’s dinner there for Pixelache Electronic Arts Festival. They were everything I had imagined and more, a huge stack of piping hot crepes piled high with whipped cream and strawberry jam. The dinner started with a vodka shot – apparently a traditional aperitif – and continued through a main course of crispy fried Baltic herrings, Finnish traditional meatballs, or breast of chicken with blue cheese sauce. At some point a friend decided to collect money for his continued stay in Finland, and we made up some truly abysmal performance poetry and passed a hat around the two tables.
Pixelache festival has grown into a fixture on the international media art circuit, and continues to support experimental works and grassroots media culture, with offshoots in Colombia and Paris. The program ranges from VJ performances, to short films, music and installations, with the intriguing Placard Festival taking place next to my Transit Lounge for Conversation in the lobby Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art. French/Finnish musician Erik Minkkinen started this festival in 1999, with the entire audience listening through headphones, to enable 24 hours of performances to take place in his tiny Paris apartment. It has now grown to a worldwide platform and he encourages anyone who is interested in hosting a Placard to set up their own space, giving technical advice on the problems and program.
Each year the organisers throw a party for all the artists, usually around 100 people at the youth hostel on Suomenlinna Island. These are friendly affairs, giving the artists a chance to meet and mingle before the four days of presentations, workshops and performances, and help to create the unique atmosphere that makes Pixelache one of the best festivals around. Even without the party, the island is a beautiful day trip or overnight stay, only a 15 minute ferry ride from Helsinki, the ruins of a historic 17th century sea fortress can be explored as you walk around this lovely community. Try the ‘Blueberry Soup’ from the vending machine onboard the ferry, I guarantee you will never taste anything like it again (unless you mix hot straw with Curacao).
Whenever I visit Helsinki I spend as much time as I can in hot water. Well, steam actually, but the Yrjönkatu swimming hall also provides a gorgeous indoor swimming pool with ornate marble columns, and charming private cabins upstairs for 11 euro, or communal change area with ancient wooden lockers for around 4. The steam room is satisfyingly hot and wet, while the wood-fired sauna is second only to Kallio the largest surviving public sauna in Helsinki. Here you can sit outside in the snow, drinking a cold beer in between bursts of extreme heat, wearing only a towel to fit in with the locals. Take your own honey for extra silky smooth skin, and purchase birch branches from the attendant, used all over the body in a quick flicking motion to stimulate circulation and release toxins. The most glamorous sauna I have ever been to is the private club on Uunisaari Island, at the after party for ISEA. This can be reached by walking over the frozen sea in winter, or on a tiny wooden boat in the summer. The sauna is housed in a rustic wood shack, features the classic dip in freezing seawater to cool you down between steams, and an old wooden house with restaurant and bar in the nearby clubhouse.
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| Helsinki, Finland |
For a spectacular view of Helsinki’s many ports, go to the rooftop bar at the Hotel Torni. Specialising in Apple Martinis, they also have delicious snacks. The port areas around Helsinki are fascinating, and you can find a series of guides to interesting walks written by locals and artists on Locating Helsinki. This wonderfully unique site offers a series of quirky tours and places to visit, form art to beer and clothes to romantisch or not romantisch, for example: “Hernesaari : If you follow the boulevard along the coast direction west from the Kaivopuisto park you will suddenly find yourself in a significantly less pleasant environment - at least according to common standards. The Hernesaari peninsula is entirely covered with huge industrial halls, warehouses, cranes and building sites. It is here that Kaurismäki has build slums for his movie The Man Without a Past (2002), obviously out of lack of real slums in Helsinki.”
Fans of Aki Kaurismäki can visit Zetor, the notorious restaurant featuring a tractor in the centre of town, famous for being owned by the Leningrad Cowboys, and hosting performances by old times singers featured in his films.
Anyone who grew up in the seventies probably used Arabia crockery at some point in their lives, and can now visit the place it originates. The old Arabia factory was transformed into UIAH Media Art and Design school, but the new factory is just down the road, and has a discount shopping centre – for those souvenir moomin cups – and piles of chipped crockery out the back, useful for anyone who needs a moment out of their busy itinerary for venting spleen or cathartic plate-throwing. If you continue walking along the lake behind the factory, you will get to the lovely Maatinkaari pedestrian bridge. A gorgeous dark green pylon bridge with 12 strings on one side and 4 on the other, according to the Helsinki City Building Office: “The minimum frequency of the bridge’s natural vibration is ca. 1.3 Hz. This ensures that crossing the bridge is a pleasant experience.”
A lovely outdoor market is found most mornings at Hakaniemi, with more authentic pancakes and herrings, and truly dreadful filter coffee. You can listen in wonder to authentic Finnish tango at the music stalls, and find some great bargains in the piles of clothes and electronics. Walking around Eläintarhanlahti Bay to the right brings you to Linnunlaulu, the imposing gothic mansion with hand printed wallpaper, which hosts artists visiting Helsinki and has a very small museum and antique shop downstairs. If you take a left at the bay, you will find a number of cozy restaurants serving decent pizza until late in the dark stone buildings along the water.
To find more specialised music, such as the famous melancholic tango singers Olavi Virta and Markus Allan, take the 3B/3A tram to visit the music shops at Viiskulma (Five Corners) on Laivurinrinne. Walk back up the hill towards Fredrikinkatu or Iso Roobertinkatu to find a range of contemporary design shops.
For a truly divine music experience, find out what is on in the Temppeliaukio Rock Church at Lutherinkatu 3, built in 1969 into the cliffs with a stunning copper domed roof. The concert I saw there was Kaffi Matthews and the Pink Twins, but you may find something more liturgical or choral to suit your taste.
Finally, make sure you try the Salmiakki, extra salty Finnish licorice, and take in some of the local ambience watching the Goth teenagers meet at Central (Rautatientori) Railway station on the weekend. The 1st May and midsummer are calendar highlights, and don’t be surprised to see hundreds of drunk Finns take to the streets. Moi Moi.
- Jodi Rose
Planning a trip? Browse tours and activities in Helsinki and Rovaniemi, Finland.