Archive for August, 2007

It’s always a difficult question — “Where are you going on your next trip?”

I’ve been thinking about this question recently, mainly because I don’t have a definite answer. For the first time in ages, I don’t have a trip planned. Sure I have a few weekend getaways up my sleeve, but there’s no mega-trip three-week hit-the-road adventure in my immediate future. (Note to prospective parents: this is what happens when you have a baby. In my case, I did go to Rome when Emmett was barely six months, but planning a longer trip with a toddler is much trickier.)

I’m not complaining, not at all. Rather I want to share some of the images that are currently inspiring me to plan that next long-haul trip, family and all. You see, it is dangerous spending time on the Viator Flickr site. All those images of far-flung places and happy people and relaxing beaches and serious adventures make me want to travel. Here are some of my favorites:
This was taken in Prague, on a foggy morning, on Charles Bridge. Don’t you want to be in Prague right now, wandering through the old town?!?!?

This is one of Viator’s travel managers, in Switzerland. Doesn’t she look happy? Doesn’t Switzerland look beautiful? Why aren’t we all riding a train through the Swiss Alps right now?!?!?

Here’s a shot from Hong Kong, from the top of Victoria Peak, along with what must be the world’s most relaxed, friendly-looking rickshaw driver. If I close my eyes, I can almost taste the bowl of pipping-hot noodles waiting for me…

These two people are standing in a “capsule” on the London Eye, enjoying the hands-down best view of London. They look happy. Would they mind if I joined?

OK, can you guess? Yup, it’s fabulous Las Vegas. An inside shot of the Peppermill’s Fireside Lounge. Fancy drinks, glowing fire, 1970s disco neon. I am so there.

Ahh, Venice. One of the world’s most stunning cities. This is a sunrise shot of a lone gondolier on the canals of Venice.

This is an action shot. Every now and then I need some action and adventure on my holidays. This photo had me reaching for a sailor’s cap and my deck shoes. It was taken in Australia’s Whitsunday Islands.

The Olympics are coming up in 2008, hosted by Beijing. I imagine if I haven’t already booked my flights and hotels in China, I still have a little time. But just a little. This shot was taken on the Great Wall of China.

This photo was taken by a Viator staffer in Hawaii, with his kids. He also wrote a great blog post about traveling in Hawaii and Oahu with kids. It reminds me that, yes, even with young ones in tow, you can still travel like you mean it!

This is just a small sample of all the travel photos that have been inspiring my recent late-night trip-planning sessions. Head on over to the Viator Flickr site for more travel photo inspiration.

–Scott McNeely

In April 2007 I hopped on a plane and headed to the Eastern European countries of Estonia and Russia. Here are some observations and thoughts on what I saw, heard, smelled, tasted, touched and experienced while traveling through these former Soviet Union countries.

Tallinn, Estonia

You can actually walk to and from the airport. About a 20 minute stroll but absolutely possible. How do I know this? My friend Marni walked there to pick me up with her co-worker. Since I had bags in tow though we took the bus back into town.

Pubs and restaurants serve this garlic bread with a twist. The dish consists of fried dark rye bread with whole garlic cloves to rub on the bread with a side dipping sauce made of dill and yogurt. Very addictive but watch how much you rub the bread with garlic. A little goes a long way and you could be breathing fire for days if not careful.

When you are in Tallinn it feels like you have gone back in time with the cobblestone streets and medieval fortress walls. The old area of the city is truly charming and you could get lost for hours down meandering alleys. Rounding a corner one day I came upon two guys strumming their guitars and singing ‘Hotel California.’

The city is known for it’s crafts. I visited glass, leather, and textile workshops. The attention to detail on all of their products is impeccable. I highly recommend leather bound journals, vases, glass ware, platters, clay pots, scarfs, socks, hats, and jewelry to take home as keepsakes or gifts.

American ex-pats and students have made Tallinn a place of interest. I met two Fulbright scholars and a handful of embassy associated folk that are either working or researching in Tallinn.

St. Petersburg, Russia

If you hold doors open for people going in and out of the metro stations it is a sign of weakness. The subway system in St. Petersburg is the deepest in the world. The underground tunnels are at least 105 km long. When you are going up and down the escalators it is like you are on a permanent tilt. Any other metro system I have experienced (London, Paris, New York, Chicago) pales in comparison to St. Petersburg.

Residents of St. Petersburg know the sun is a scarce resource during certain parts of the year. I was there in April around Easter. Everyday I had at least three layers and a coat on. On our last day there we headed over to the famed Peter and Paul Fortress. As we walked out onto a jetty just outside the fortress walls I looked left and saw a group of city residents leaning against the fortress wall, stripped down to their bathing suits, getting some sun. It was quite a site since our teeth were chattering as we observed them. Men and women would lean with their backs to the fortress wall and then flip over to get sun on their backs while standing.

Bloody Mary’s in St. Petersburg are delicious. Essentially they pour tomato juice into a high ball glass then pour a topper of vodka not mixed and garnish it with a lemon. When it arrives you stir it up and drop in the lemon. This was my drink of choice on the trip and amazingly enough never got a splitting headache. Speaking of vodka, I brought back a few bottles for friends and the label on the bottles literally translated to ‘No Hangover.’

St. Petersburg is an awe inspiring city. So much architectural and monumental beauty. The baroque period influences are everywhere. There is so much to see and learn about. The Hermitage (Catherine Palace) is probably the most famous of the buildings and museums in the city. The art collections throughout the Hermitage are unbelievable. Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Matisse, Van Gough, Renoir, Monet, Raphael…I seriously got tears in my eyes when seeing their works up close and personal.

We found a Blues Club one night when we were wandering the streets. It was called the Jimi Hendrix and was intimate and cave-like. The place was packed with Russians, Western Europeans, and us Americans. The band that played really got into some of the classic American Jazz. The leader of the band and the saxophonist came up to our table since he heard our accents. Believe it or not he had traveled to San Francisco for some gigs about seven years ago and played at Bimbo’s 365, a quintessential venue in the city. He was actually returning to the U.S. this past July for a serious of shows at the Jazz Jubliee in Sacramento…small world I say.

It would be easy to ramble on about other discoveries, small world stories, and oh wows while visiting these countries but I wouldn’t want to give too much away. Find out for yourself and consider Estonia and Russia for your next travel adventure.

–Liz

Browse all of Viator’s tours and things to do in St. Petersburg.

I confess I was attracted to Salzburg by The Sound of Music, but I was surprised how completely charmed I was by the city.

Crammed with beautiful churches, Salzburg was first settled by monks. I guess they were impressed by it’s dramatic surroundings of cliffs and mountains, who wouldn’t be, and by the wide Salzach River running through the middle of the valley. These days it is a really beautiful city with a surprising amount to do for such a small place; the population is about 146,000.

Light shining on Salzburg, Austria

The main obsessions in Salzburg are Mozart and The Sound of Music. Both had their births there – 1756 and 1964 , respectively - and both now fuel the tourist industry. The locals are clearly prouder of Mozart than the industry von Trapp, with most of the souvenirs being Mozart-related. If only they’d cared about him so much when he was alive. But I have to say the town’s signature Mozartkugeln (Mozart balls) are delicious, chocolatey goodness. They were developed in 1890 at Café Konditorei Furst and its still there in all its elegance.

If you like chocolate, head straight to the café at the Hotel Sacher, sit overlooking the river and the old town and order the Sacher Torte. Yes, this is the real Sacher Torte, still handmade to the original recipe and best eaten with unsweetened whipped cream. The very first was made in Vienna in 1832 by Franz Sacher. Only a second year apprentice chef at the time, Prince Metternich ordered a totally original cake, the head pastry chef was sick, Sacher stepped in and developed this iconic, not too sweet but just right chocolate cake which became a legend. He went on to open a successful patisserie in Vienna and his son Edward and wife Anna opened the first Hotel Sacher in 1866. If you’ve got the money, stay in the hotel as well, great location and you could have cake everyday. Everyday for the rest of your life if you want because from their shop they ship cakes all over the world. Their house blend of tea is great too: Darjeeling, earl grey and jasmine.

Salzburg is a city of walking so you need feel no guilt about all that cake. Wandering the streets, looking at all the shops, finding the little markets in squares of the old town all keep you occupied for hours. There are also contemporary art galleries, palaces to visit and Festung Hohensalzburg, the best preserved fortress in Europe perched dramatically on the hill at one end of the city. It has 6 acres or 33 000 sq metres of living space and the city grants spaces for artists to live there. How great would that be? I presume they have updated the bathroom facilities – one small room jutting from a tower was apparently the prince-archbishop’s toilet with everything just falling away to the ground far below – effective but not pretty.

One night we had dinner at the restaurant of the Museum der Moderne Art, perched on the clifftop of the Monchsberg mountain. The food is good, the service great (we sat outside and the head waiter wrapped me in a blanket) and the view even better. We watched the light change dramatically as storms threatened and the sun set over the city’s slender spires and the fortress, with the Untersberg mountain in the background. Fantastic. And you reach the place by a lift inside the mountain – I love unusual public transport.

View from Eagle’s Nest

Something I didn’t know about Salzburg was how close by Hitler’s second headquarters were, just over the border in Bavaria. We took a tour to the (in)famous Kehlsteinhouse (Eagles’ Nest). This is a teahouse perched high on a sheer white-gray craggy, barren mountain. It was the Nazi party’s 50th birthday present to Hitler and is an amazing engineering achievement even if completely haunted and creepy through association. But it’s worth going for the amazing views and mountains alone – you can see all the way back to Salzburg. And to see what money and power can achieve.

Built in 1937-38, in just 13 months, the building was only ever intended as a teahouse, a mountain top retreat above the village of Hitler and his henchmen, where visitors could be entertained and impressed. It is reached by a very steep road serviced by buses equipped with special brakes and the only way up there, apart from on foot, is via these buses. The road is all hairpin turns and tunnels, only wide enough for one bus except in the special passing bays, and the cliff drops steeply to lakes and villages far below – not for the faint-hearted, my vertigo did not enjoy it and I had to go to my happy place several times. The bucket and broom at the front of the bus were a worry too – are there many uneasy travellers on this bus?

Finally you reach a parking area and, on foot, enter a long tunnel into the mountain. This leads to a lift inside the mountain that takes you up into the hallway of the teahouse. Apparently Hitler had several resting areas on the way due to his terrible claustrophobia, and the lift is large and brass lined for reflections to belie its enclosed nature; perhaps the party didn’t like him that much – the Eagles’ Nest doesn’t feel like a very sympathetic gift for a man with so many deep phobias.

The Kehlsteinhouse is now used as a restaurant and the advantage of going there on an organised tour was that we arrived in time to see inside all the rooms - by the time we came to leave, the main dining and conference rooms were closed off to tourists. Apparently there is some disagreement about why this building was not destroyed along with all the rest of Hitler’s Bavarian HQ at the end of the war. Some say the Allied bombs missed, some say it was deliberately left. In 1952 the building was opened to the public and leased out as a restaurant. All the profit after running costs is donated to charity.

Heading back to Salzburg, we stopped to pick up people who had done the tour of the famous salt mines, drop off people going to the ice caves and others going to the lakes. I was impressed by the efficiency and good humour of the tour guide who was wrangling all these people with different wants, some of who changed their mind halfway through the tour. He took in his stride, made a call and waited to make sure they made their new bus. Great service.

Returning to Salzburg, I was interested to see how different the colour of the river was to the cut-glass clear of the mountains streams not that far out of town. The water of the Salzach looked quite opaque, milky green, not for drinking or falling into its fast running depths. I’m not sure whether the Salzach has picked up dirt or pollution and I wasn’t about to slide down the banks to find out. Too far inland to be tidal, the level of the Salzach rose and fell dramatically in the few days I was there. I guess it was to do with rain falling in the mountains and in Salzburg itself – there were a couple of mighty tempests while we were there even though it was mid-summer.

I would happily go back to Salzburg with no thoughts of nuns, captains, or singing children.

–Philippa Burne

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s Salzburg things to do and tours in Austria.

On a recent trip to Europe I had the pleasure of spending time in Istanbul, Turkey. The city is enchanting, bustling with people, and can intrigue any visitor. Istanbul has it all from ancient history to delicious food to phenomenal art and architecture to endless shopping…the list could go on forever. I want to share some memories from the journey to Istanbul:

1. Call to Prayer: Istanbul is home to millions of people looking at faith in different ways. Over 90% of the Turkish population are Muslim but anyone in Turkey has freedom of religion and beliefs. My traveling partner had lived in Kuwait city for a little over a year and was explaining the call to prayer to me on the plane ride to Turkey. I had most definitely read about the call to prayer and discussed it with others, but had never been in a city where I actually heard the call to prayer. The Muslim is called to prayer five times a day. The call to prayer is heard at dawn, at midday, the middle of the afternoon, just after sunset, and then about two hours after sunset. The muezzin, a man appointed to call to prayer, climbs the mineret of the mosque, and he calls in all directions, “Hasten to prayer.” Many mosques no longer require the muezzin to climb the mineret. Instead, a loud speaker carries the message. Bright and early the first morning I was startled awake by the speaker. It is actually quite a beautiful experience and for some reason felt calming each time I heard it.

2. Bazaars: If you want leather goods, Istanbul has it. If you want spices, Istanbul has it. If you want backgammon boards, Istanbul has it. If you want scarfs, shampoo, hookahs, shoes, tiles, jewelry, bags, rugs, Istanbul has it. This city is a shopaholics dream. And there is no better way to experience this firsthand than at the Grand Bazaar or Spice Bazaar. These bazaars are the nucleus of shopping in this great city. You enter and are overwhelmed (in a good way I think) with the endless stalls of merchants selling their goods, heckling for prices, and offering tea to get you to come in and stay a while. You could spend a whole day in the Grand Bazaar leaving with a shopping euphoria that matches no other. People are everywhere. Shopkeepers ask you to come in and drink some tea with intentions of selling their goods to you. If you head to the Grand Bazaar be sure to just take it all in, ask for a good price, and revel in the atmosphere. There is really no comparison in the USA. The Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar) is a smaller version of the Grand Bazaar and much more manageable. We actually went into this bazaar with a guide and she took us to a wonderful spice shop where we hung out, drank tea, sampled fruits and nuts, and of course made purchases for pals back home.

3. Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque: Pictures just don’t do these architectural gems justice. I could stare at both these places of worship for hours on end and never get bored. The look of them changes throughout the day as the light shifts. The Hagia Sophia as it stands now was built between 532 and 537. It is an exquisite example of Byzantine architecture. Muslim, Jewish and Christians have all prayed under it’s massive dome. The inside of the church is ornate with painted designs, golden angels and Muslim medallions. The iron-clad chandeliers are lit by individual candles and the pathway up to the top feels cave-like. I could have spent all day looking up at the intricate designs. The Blue Mosque is still very much an active place for muslim worship. Along with the Hagia Sophia it is the most prominent landmark in Istanbul. Construction of the mosque began in 1609 and the entire complex was completed in 1616. The elements I remember most vividly are the Turkish rugs, light through the stained glass, and blue cloth I had to wear over my head. If you have the privilege to enter this place of worship please be mindful and cover your head, take your shoes off, and turn off the flash on your camera.
4. Turkish Baths: On my list of the things to do before I die, a Turkish bath was a big front runner. The Turkish bath or Hamam is more or less a branch of the steam bath. It dates back to when the Turks arrived from Anatolia. These Hamams were not only places to relax and cleanse the skin but were part of daily life. No matter what your status, class or ranking in society all residents could come and go freely. Let me just say that it is difficult to put into words the experience at the Cemberlitas Hamam. You really cannot fully understand and enjoy it unless well you have had the pleasure to sweat it out in the steam room. Essentially you are wrapped up in a light fringed cloth or pestemal while relaxing on the raised marble slab. Heat and steam infiltrate your pores from every which way. Once it is your turn a friendly turkish lady scrubs you down with a kese (rough mit cloth). Layers of skin are removed and a massage follows. Once the treatment is completed you are lead out of the bath dazed and confused but thoroughly relaxed. This description is general but one has to see it to believe it. We took one of our traveling friends there for her birthday one birthday she will never forget.
5. Food & Drink: Anyone who likes to eat and drink well will enjoy Istanbul. This city has the best OJ I have ever tasted. I think I drank three huge glasses a day. Turkey is known for it’s succulent fruits and the juices confirm it. Tea, now I didn’t figure out the tea situation until a couple of days in. Shopkeepers serve tourists this way too sweet apple cider like tea. It is sold everywhere but is way too sweet and syrupy for me. The Turkish themselves drink a black more bitter tea. This tea was tasty and once I found it I couldn’t stop drinking it. Efes Pilsen, was the Turkish beer I consumed the most and goes great with shisha. And of course we cannot forget about Raki, the clear grape brandy flavored liquor with anise and diluted with water. This liquor is delicious and misleading with it’s clear appearance. Be careful not to over do it, ha. Turkish bread is baked fresh each day and is soft and delicious. Vegetables marinated in oils spices and vinegars certainly appease the appetite. We went to great lengths to eat well and succeeded. Turkish style pizza, a vegan restaurant, kebabs, tables full of mezes. My favorite evening was the one spent on the Nevizade. This is charming alley lined with outdoor restaurants serving delicious food. The roasted peppers, mushrooms, lamb and seafood were so savory.

This is just a sneak peak of the memories of endless wandering, wide-eyed viewing and jovial interaction. Find out for yourself and head to Turkey!

–Liz P

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Istanbul.

I arrive in Barcelona only to be swept off to Mar Bella for the Sunday gay beach party, coinciding with the Loveball gay and lesbian festival. The first afternoon in Barcelona is a blur of mojitos, watching a drag queen in purple wig and silver platform shoes dance to the village people, and then plunging into the Mediterranean to swim during the sunset as the big orange just after full moon rises. Taking a stroll on a Sunday afternoon a few weeks later through the Parc de la Ciutadella, I find a group of swing dancers joyfully spinning in the gazebo, and am charmed by surprise dragons guarding a magnificent waterfall fountain. This is one of the delights of being in a city that peaked economically in the 14th Century, where so many of the ancient buildings are still in use, and some are almost untouched by progress.

Reading Colm Toibin’s Homage to Barcelona gives an insight into the pride and history of the Catalan people, and fills in my sketchy knowledge of local history. Including the reason for the Arc de Triumph, which celebrates a brief return of Catalan Independence. It’s a triumphant arc, the light fittings are gorgeous, and I’m intrigued by a beautifully painted tile which has been set into the base of one, depicting a group of peasants making merry on a grassy verge.

Street art in Barcelona

It’s now legal to be nude in the centre of the city, which indicates a wider cultural liberalism, although so far people seem to be keeping it to the beaches. Barcelona is an extremely modern, international city, so much so that it’s difficult to access the contemporary local culture without a resident to guide you through the maze of commerce and tourism. Listings for what’s on can be found in Barcelona Connect and Barcelona Weekly magazines for an insiders view of the city.

Another way to engage is to check out the evening viewing at Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) on a Thursday night, when they open late, and catch one of the free film screenings in summer, programmed to coincide with the latest exhibition themes. This year it’s all about Traveling, with a great program including ‘Don’t Look Back’ with a young, arrogant Bob Dylan in fine ranting form, and ‘Double Blind’ Sophie Calle and partner on a road trip as their relationship disintegrates. Get there really early to nab a deck chair, or else squirm on the narrow hard wooden slats with everyone else.

The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya also stays open til 10pm on Thursdays during summer with music and a discount 3 euro entry, as does the Modern Art Museum. The Gracia Festival transforms this district into a living public artwork from August 15-21st walk towards Placa Rius I Taulet from metro Fontana (L3) to pick up a guide of all the decorated streets and watch the human castles rising and falling outside the town hall.

The bicycles for hire at the bicing racks around the city are primarily there for local residents to make short commuting trips and so help ease the traffic problems. If you can register online first in Catalan or Spanish, you may be able to access these from any of 100 locations around the city, but keep an eye out for the distinctive red and white wheels as people unfamiliar to cycling may be a little unsteady on the streets.

If you’re heading to Barceloneta beach, stop at the Museum of the History of Catalonia, or visit their online exhibition ‘Franco’s Prisons’, exploring the reality and legacy of the fascist Regime. After this dip into local history, refresh yourself with a swim and a cold drink from one of the many beach vendors who walk along touting their wares. The Barceloneta area is built on the old town centre of Ciutat Vella fisherman district, and has become very desirable despite the high-rise jungle, which has sprung up along the waters edge since the seventies. Rebecca Horn’s new sculpture teeters precariously on the beach, an ode to the industrial past and crumbling faded glory. Locals also recommend Mar Bogatell for swimming, a few beaches further along past the Port Olimpic, about 5 euro in a cab.

Gothic street art in Barcelona

Crossing back into the Born district will find you amidst a cornucopia of groovy bars, cafes and designer clothes stores. The Church of Santa Maria del Mar is a great meeting point and place to hang out, and nearby was the first nightclub in the 1970’s. Watch locals and tourists mingle at the wonderful Bellarmino ice-cream bar – insane mango & fantastic coconut sorbets, and sublime chocolate. Nearby Carrer Agullers is home to Vila Vineteca gourmet wine and cheese deli at number 7-9, and Forn de Pastisseria VilaMala (#14) which produces the most extraordinary vanilla slice (Mil Hoyas) with caramel flaky pastry and decadent rich custard.

In need a health fix after all this indulgence? Veritas Organic Supermarket is only a few block away at Via Laietana 28, and carries a great range of biological products, tofu and soymilk. Origen 99.9% Restaurant at Passeig del Born 4 offers a magazine style menu with improbable translations but deliciously fresh organic Catalan recipes and local ingredients. I have still to work my way through the six pages of desserts that start the menu, and look forward to trying the ‘mouse from cream cheese and coulees of fruits’. The food market at newly renovated Mercat de Santa Caterina is worth visiting simply to check out the brightly tiled wavy roof, while the superior restaurants (and Woody Allen who is filming here) pick up supplies at Mercat de Sant Josep la Boqueria, just over La Rambla from Metro station Liceu.

Wandering along the Ramblas I was drawn in to the exhibition at the Institut de Cultura Gallery La Virreina by the name ‘Silenced Cartographies’. A series of panoroamic photographs of seemingly empty landscapes and disused buildings is accompanied by a video of forests and meadows with a recital of names. It wasn’t until halfway through that I realised these were all concentration camps and mass graves from the Franco era. Rejoining the crowds at the Boqueria market was a strangely comforting haze of life, colour and movement.

Crossing over Placa Catalunya towards the Passeig de Gracia for some seriously upmarket shopping, make sure to stop for some of the best tapas in town at tapa C24, opposite the Diesel shop on Diputacio 269. Perfect with their fabulous sangria slushee. A haven from the endless stream of people around Place Catalunya is Café Zurich, at the very top of La Rambla. This decadent old style café is a delight to slip into for a cool orange juice or baguette, and the charmingly efficient and friendly service from waiters who move gracefully through the crowded tables to take your order almost as soon as you sit down. The coolest young local designers seem to have set up camp along the back of the Catedral Santa Lucia, which is also worth visiting for the geese in the courtyard. Head down along Carrer D’Avinyo for directional fashion at Garden (off D’Avinyo) or Comite on El Raval. Continue to Carrer Ample 28 to visit the Papa of lollyshops, Papabubble. On my first meander through this area I was amused to see two Eurotrash pop stars or princesses out shopping flanked by four burly secret service security agents talking seriously into their headsets.

Barcelona summer market

The extremely beautiful shoes at Jocomomola will make you wish you had a clothing allowance (c/Vigatans 6 el Born), while funky bags are handmade in front of you round the corner at Pinzat, and Desigual chain store has a very cool range of more accessible fashions. Top end designers like Marithe + Francois Girbaud lurk around Placa de les Olles, while Café de la Princesa runs between Carrer Sabateret and Flassaders with a sumptuous range of elegant tailored suits and luxurious food.

Those of you who can’t afford designer fashion or just don’t like buying from chain stores will find a clothing mecca at the Encants Flea Market, near Glories Metro on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat from 8.30am. The piles of second hand clothing take some dedication to sift through, but can reveal excellent pieces (a sheer zara silk shirt, home made 60’s print cotton dress, fancy ruffle skirt) and at 3 for 5 euro it’s such a bargain that you can satisfy a wicked shopping urge without breaking the budget. Inside the square is a veritable treasure trove of old pictures, books, tools, and plenty of junk mixed in amongst the genuine antiques. Replenish your energy with a café con leche at the tiny coffee shop tucked inside the street wall, and then it’s time to parade your new look at one of the many bars along the cobbled streets in the city.

There are bars all over the barrio, between Princessa, Lietana and Picasso you could drink for hours in a mix of plush, gritty and trendy establishments. Walk from the old style Rosal at the top of Passeig de Born along Carrer Banys Vells for a taste of some seriously decadent nightlife, the bar with beds may give you pause, but try to make it all the way up to the fabulous library café, Lil, for their great atmosphere and rich chocolate brownie with white chocolate foam. Delicious.

–Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s Barcelona things to do and tours in Spain.

Editor’s Note: Jordan Digby lives in Baan Pluai (aka “BP”), Roi-Et province, Thailand. If you want to find it on a map, the coordinates are 15 degrees 39′ 34″ N, 103 degrees 56′ 45″ E. Please, no ICBMS.

Lesson 1: The 10-Ticket Bus

So we’ve lost the use of the neighbour’s pickup, due to her daughter coming home and taking possession of it. Kids are the same everywhere.

So I’ve been catching the bus into town each day. Now “bus” is a loose term – there seem to be two main types of busses around here. The first are the coaches that hurtle across Isaan from one major town to another. “Speed” is the operative word here, both describing the velocity of these 15 tonne unguided missiles, and the fuel given to the drivers.

The other is the songtaew (minibus). In reality, a large cage bolted on the back of a pickup, these ply the minor routes between villages and small towns. People either clamber inside the cage, or for that extra thrill, cling grimly to the top. “Timetable” seems not to translate too well into Thai here – anytime between 6:30 and 7:15 the “7am” Cage will arrive.

The other day we arrive at the bus-stop to go home. “What time does the bus leave?” we ask. “Four o-clock” they tell us (“sii moong yen”). It’s now 3:05. Bugger! OK, we think, a decent-sized load would be about 10 people. “If we buy 10 bus tickets, what time does the bus leave?”

“Right now,” is the happy reply. So going home that day was a personalized Cage service, delivery right to our door (with appropriate looks from the neighbours!).

Lesson 2: New Car, New Family

Buddha drives a Turbo

So we’ve bought a car (at last). Of course it wasn’t easy, it took us a few goes to find a good dealer, but we finally found a good chap in Kalasin, about 200 kms away, and we’ve bought the car through him.

So he calls us last weekend to tell us the car will be ready Monday. “Great!” my wife, Ann, exclaims, and Monday morning first thing we all pile into a friend’s car to get a lift up to Kalasin.

We arrive in Kalasin around 11am, and proudly walk into the showroom. “Welcome,” he says, “your car should be ready by 4pm!”. Only 5 hours! In typical Thai fashion, no-one batted an eye when we decided we’d wait. We plonked ourselves down in the showroom for 5 hours.

So we finally get the car, and drive home. Ann’s mum has prepared a special garland of flowers, which she carefully placed on the front bumper bar for the night. This, I’m told, is to “welcome the new Car to the household”. It’s great to have a new member of the family!

Lesson 3: Turbo Blessing

It’s good to see Buddhism is keeping up with the times. On Tuesdays — and for reasons lost in the mists of time, only on Tuesdays — the monks can perform a ‘Car Blessing Ceremony’.

So Tuesday I was summoned to race home early, before temple closes. We drove in, and parked the car right up near the temple door. The monks came out, and wrapped the steering wheel in a string, which was then attached to the temple’s buddha, and we all said some special prayers. Then the head monk daubed the inside ceiling of the car with a special protective motif in chalk. Then the monks walked around the car, chanting and sprinkling it with holy water. Then they opened the bonnet and complimented me on choosing the XLT Turbo option for the Ford F350 series. “Turbo — good,” the monks all agreed.

I guess there must be Good that is Universal, and it obviously includes turbochargers.

Lesson 4: My First “Road Tax”

There’s a stretch of road between home and ‘Yaso’ (i.e., Yasothon, I’m a local now) that’s dead straight and dead flat for about 6 kilometers. The general rule seems to be that you go as fast as your car will allow — somewhere between 30 and 130 km/hr, depending upon whether you’re in a tractor or a new car.

So we’re sitting nicely on 130km, when an oncoming car gives the headlight flash. Police up ahead, presumably, so we slow down to 100km. Sure enough, in the distance a police road block appears, and as we approach one of the policemen waves us over.

“Good morning,” he says, beaming through the window. “Where you from?”

We proceed with the usual discussion about where I’m from, where I’m going etc, I show him my licence, then he says, “Oh! Mr Jordan, you go too fast. 100km. Limit is 90.”

“Oh really?” I reply, feigning innocence. “Just 10 km over?”

“Yes,” he says, “please parking the car.” Uh-oh. I park the car and get out. “Yes,” the policeman says, with a serious demeanor, “500 baht” (AUD $20), his pen quivering over his opened notepad.

“Oh no,” says I, pulling my wallet from my pocket, “can I pay you now?”

Smiles appear. “OK, 200 baht!” The notebook and pen disappear, 200 baht (AUD $6) changes hands and vanishes. Now it’s big smiles all round, a few “pleased to meet you” hand shakes, and off we go, everyone happy.

The roads are safer, I’ve made a new friend, and Mr Policeman has some nice lunch money. Only Ann is annoyed, that I didn’t bargain harder…

–Jordan Digby

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Thailand, Bangkok tours and activities in Phuket.

Editor’s Note: This is the second in a series of posts from Jeff Gates, the New Media Lead Producer for the Smithsonian American Art Museum and Managing Editor for its blog, Eye Level. Jeff is on a family vacation, which sounded like a great excuse to publish his trials and tribulations from the road. You can read Jeff’s first post here.

Landing in Las Vegas at night is a bit like landing at National Airport in DC: an incredible view of the city beckons you. McCarren International Airport is just south of The Strip. So our first look at the city lights came from our airplane’s window. Despite our destination’s proximity to the airport it would be two hours before we finally arrived at Treasure Island, our hotel. Baggage Claim, Rental Car, and finally the 24/7 traffic jam of Las Vegas Boulevard took precedence. After our 10 hours of airplanes and airports we were hypnotized by the lights of the The Strip. And it wasn’t until two days later as we drove north to our next stop in the Sierras that we realized there was a real and quite normal metropolis just beyond these lights.

“Statue” with offerings at the Venetian’s version of St Mark’s Square

Looking out our hotel window the next morning was like taking in a view of each “land” at Disneyland. You had your Italian Renaissance Land courtesy the Venetian across the street, Francoland as seen by the Paris’ iconic Eiffel Tower replica, and Ancient Rome Land at Caesar’s Palace. My nine year old daughter immediately announced “It’s better than Disneyland!”

We had intended to go to Hoover Dam while in the area. But after experiencing the canals of pseudo-Venice and “St. Mark’s Square” at The Venetian, we wanted more of that man-made reality. So we spent our two days walking from casino to casino, marveling at the wonders of the Sphinx at the Luxor, the skyline of New York, New York, and the white tiger at the Mirage. We must have walked 15 miles that first day.

It wasn’t all fake postmodern pastiche. Our need to keep our feet in reality took us to an exhibition of Picasso’s ceramics and stopped us in wonder at Dale Chihuli’s glass sculpture installation (my wife studied with Dale), both at the Bellagio. And I took the opportunity to teach my oldest, a budding photographer, how to use fill-in flash to bring out detail when taking pictures in hotel lobbies. Yes, Las Vegas can provide some educational opportunities if you try.

We topped off our first day with a performance of Cirque du Soleil’s Mystère. There are five different Cirque venues along on The Strip. I was interested in “O” and their underwater staging while my ten year old was interested in Love, their tribute to the Beatles. But invoking our first rule of family vacations: thou shalt be sensitive to others’ phobias, we went with Mystère. Our oldest, after viewing each show’s promo video, thought this performance would be the least likely to scare her younger sister who claims to suffer from coulrophobia, a fear of clowns (ok, but are there any traditional clowns at any Cirque?).

At 6:30 the next morning our youngest woke us gently reminded us we owed the girls a visit to the pool. She had miraculously overcome her “deep-end” aquaphobia earlier in the summer and was eager to demonstrate her swimming prowess. Given the heat of Las Vegas in July, we decided early morning would be best. Shortly after breakfast we made our way poolside. The girls swam while I showed my wife how she could effortlessly chart her stocks via my iPhone all from the comfort of her lounge chair (part of my devious wonderful plan to get her hooked on this tasty bit of technology).

Susie and I are always on the lookout for the consummate souvenir. We like kitsch, but it has to be good (so bad it’s good). We had very high expectations for this city. If you can’t find quality kitsch here, where can you? We were dumbfounded when, at the Luxor, we discovered they didn’t have a pyramid-shaped snow globe (a family of collectors, my nine year old has a neatly arranged and catalogued case of them from our travels). A pyramid or sphinx with gently falling snowflakes would have been a natural and wonderfully ironic keepsake. Come on guys, get with it.

Kitsch nirvana at the Liberace Museum.

Our hopes and souvenir dreams were realized, however, when we arrived at the Liberace Museum. The Liberace Museum IS so bad it’s good. The whole place is one big beautiful nexus-o-kitsch. Of course, look who they had to work with. It resides in a strip mall and I took the best picture of the trip at its entrance, something that summed up my experience perfectly: the camp of the performer with the backdrop setting in which he is remembered.

That, in itself, is a great souvenir. I bought a chocolate Liberace “CD” (in a jewel case, natch) as an ephemeral remembrance of our visit, hoping to get it home intact. But when I next pulled it out of my backpack to show my sister a few days later it was a melted mess.

While Vegas has submerged its seedier side in an effort to draw families, it still exists. Hawkers pass out handbills for strip shows on the street. That was pretty easy to navigate. And the “adults only” bars and lounges are clearly marked. However, the nightly “Sirens of TI” caught us off guard.

Our girls were eager to see this free extravaganza which takes place four times a night in front of our hotel. The story is simple (and I wished I had read this on the TI Website before our visit):

The Sirens of TI ® begins with a 17th century clash between a group of beautiful, tempting sirens and a band of renegade pirates. With their mesmerizing and powerful song the Sirens lure the pirates to their cove, stir up a tempest strong enough to sink a ship, and transform Sirens’ Cove into a 21st century party. Experience music, dance, excitement and seduction…

Like these renegade pirates, Las Vegas’ Disneyfied edifice had lured Susie and I into forgetting what had built this city. We were surprised that such a stereotypical sexist message was so blatantly displayed in the amusement park-like atmosphere at street level. We assumed it was family-oriented since it was in a public area directly in front of our hotel. To be honest, the girls enjoyed the show for its special effects. But it wasn’t the Las Vegas we expected to see. We’ll stick with the Cirque du Disney version for now.

–Jeff Gates

Stay tuned for the next installment of Jeff’s family vacation, “The Eastern Sierra: Gateway to Yosemite,” coming soon.

Sometimes it is the little things that put a smile on your face. Case in point: Last week I was emailing with a friend of a friend about his upcoming trip to Las Vegas. He’s planning to pop the question AND get married all within 24 hours, assuming his girlfriend agrees, and he had a few questions for me.

“Do you know a place in Vegas to get married?” he asked. “Nothing fancy, though if you can find me an Elvis wedding I’ll name our first-born child after you. And what about a trip to the Grand Canyon? I think that would be an awesome post-vows celebration.”

Now, asking these questions of me is a little like asking the Pope if he knows anything about funny hats. Or asking Paris Hilton what she knows about driving with a suspended license. Do I know anything about Las Vegas weddings and tours to the Grand Canyon??? Um, yes, as a matter of fact I do.

Let me start with the wedding. If you’re going to get married in Las Vegas, you have a few options:

• An “I just met you, let’s get married for a lark” wedding must always include Elvis. And you have a few options. There’s the “Loving You” Elvis Wedding and the “Can’t Help Falling in Love” Elvis Wedding and let’s not forget about the “Hunk of Burning Love” Elvis Wedding. What’s the cost? Anywhere from $125 to $350, depending on the ‘extras’ you want (limo transfer, flowers, Elvis CD, photos, marriage certificate, you get the idea). You’ll also need to buy a marriage license on the spot for about $55, no waiting required. It’s just that easy to say “I do”.



• If Elvis isn’t your thing, you can always opt for the other quintessential wedding option: a drive-up wedding. Limo service from the hotel, a swing by the courthouse for your license (pre-paid, as it should be), then off to the world-famous Drive Thru window at A Special Memory Wedding Chapel, where a real and totally legitimate minister will perform your nuptials. You can almost hear somebody asking you, “do you want fries with that?” Total cost, a budget-friendly $300.



• At the high-end of the scale, there’s a Grand Canyon Helicopter Wedding (cost: a cool $3,550) or you can super-size it with an Ultimate Grand Canyon Helicopter Wedding (cost: $3,900). What do you get for all that cash? Besides your own private helicopter tour of the Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam, you get a sunset wedding at the Valley of Fire. And don’t worry, for a little extra you can even hire an Elvis of Johnny Cash impersonator to accompany you. I am not joking.

Next up, the helicopter tours. Again you have a few options:

• Start small, stay local and take in Las Vegas on a night helicopter flight. This is very cool, and it’s a real bargain at $60 per person.
• The mac daddy option here is the All American Grand Canyon Helicopter Tour, which covers Hoover Dam, Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon. It’s probably the easiest (certainly the quickest) way to see the Grand Canyon if you’re in Vegas and don’t want to make the four-hour drive. It’s also a good way to avoid the heat of the drive — the desert is hot in summer (it’s a desert, remember) and the helicopter has lovely air-con. Cost? $289.
• Or go BIG with a 4-in-1 Grand Canyon helicopter adventure. Yup, it’s a serious endeavor: helicopter trip to the Grand Canyon, then a 4,000-foot descent in the chopper to the floor of the canyon, followed by a boat trip on the river, heli-hop back up to the rim, get 4 hours to explore the canyon on your own, the catch a helicopter back to Vegas where your limo is waiting to drop you back at the hotel. Sweet! Total cost: $499 and worth every penny. You even have time to check out the Grand Canyon Skywalk if you’re interested.

Like I said, I had a few suggestions for my friend (he probably wishes he had never asked me). If I’m lucky, I may even get invited to the wedding. After all I can do a mean rendition of “Love Me Tender”…

–Scott “Hound Dog” McNeely

Browse more photos of Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam over on the Viator Flickr site.

Years ago when I lived in an apartment near a local donut shop, every morning I would awaken to the smell of fresh donuts being made. I’d get up, hop on my bike and ride over for a fresh bear claw or a good old glazed donut – the best I’d ever had. Of course, I’d then spend the next four hours climbing myself down from the ceiling from the sugar high I’d get.

Now that I’m older and more health-conscious do I worry about the effects of donuts, including the probable weight gain? Absolutely not.

In fact, since moving to Portland, Oregon, more than four years ago, I’ve actually searched out the perfect donut. I’ve even found a few places. Portland is known for many fine things: a bazillion microbreweries, sustainable living, great coffee, and the nationally renowned streetcar transit system. But, can you get a good donut? Yes you can.

The Best Donuts in Portland

No Portland donut screed would be complete without a mention of Voodoo Doughnut. Located at 22 SW Third in the heart of Old Town, next to Berbati’s Pan, they have been serving up spectacular creations for the locals for years. Want a simple glazed donut? Not here. Though you can get a “Butter Fingering,” which is devil’s food, vanilla and crushed Butterfinger, or the “Triple Chocolate Penetration” which is described as a chocolate donut, chocolate glaze, and Cocoa Puffs.

Voodoo also distributes around town to various coffee shops so you don’t have to travel to the ripped-up downtown area to get one. I usually get my fix at Common Ground on Hawthorne. Heck, even their vegan donuts rule.

Available only during the fall, which seems entirely proper, are the apple cider donuts from Lee Farms, 21975 SW 65th Ave in Tualatin. Maybe it’s the crisp fall air, the turning color of the leaves, or the hunger pains from missing breakfast, but the smell of warm, sugary donuts always gets to me. Served with hot cider and a cool October night breeze, these freshly made donuts are small enough to make you feel a bit less guilty for eating six in one sitting.

Two other of my favorite places are Annie’s Donuts, 3449 NE 72nd and Sesame Donuts, 6990 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Hwy. Annie’s has the small-town ambiance with a fine selection of donuts – try the glazed. Last time I was there, they were still under a buck each. Meanwhile, across the river, is Sesame Donuts, famous for the sesame-covered donut. Kind of like General Tso chicken. But sweeter – and round, with a hole.

Donuts in Oregon City? Yes.

Muno’s Bakery, Oregon City

I’ve saved the best for last. For my money, the best maple bar I’ve ever had, anywhere, comes from Muno’s Bakery (616 1/2 Main St, tel. 503 - 656 4335) in Oregon City. To many if not most Portland hipsters, Oregon City is too far away to travel for a maple bar. Their loss.

Oregon City, which I will write exclusively about in a future post, was Oregon’s first capital and once jockeyed with Portland to be the port city/shipping in the region. It lost. Oregon City’s main street called, surprise, Main Street, sits almost untouched by time. And on Main Street is where you’ll find Muno’s. Closed Sundays, Muno’s sell pastries, wedding cakes, donuts, and cookies. The first time we visited one cloudy Saturday, we had high hopes – the old 1940s wedding photos on the wall, the long line, and the history must have proved its worthiness. Sadly, we were let down by the cookies. They were a bit stale, chalky and mostly tasteless. We left disappointed.

Then months later a co-worker mentioned Muno’s in a conversation and how wonderful their maple bars were. Another visit was due.

Back to Muno’s. Tried the maple bar. And Lord yes, the co-worker was right. Amazing. Even the two-dozen day-old ones that we bought, took home, froze and heated up in the microwave were just as tasty. Go to Muno’s. Experience the ambiance. Chat with the counter lady. And enjoy the maple bar.

Honorable Mention

Dippin’ Donuts on 82nd in Clackamas. I’ve actually never stepped into the place. I’m merely mentioning it for it “Dunkin’ Donuts” font and colors it uses. The first time I spotted it I thought I was back in Boston – where there’s a Dunkin’ Donuts on every street corner.

–John Chilson

Editor’s Note: John Chilson blogs about mid-century Portland history at Stumptown Confidential and lost Oregon hotels and eateries at Oregon Roadside.

Rising from the sun-drenched tropical savanna of northwest Costa Rica, the tidy, Spanish Colonial town of Liberia has become a top tourist destination in recent years, despite its decidedly non-touristy (by Costa Rican standards, at any rate) demeanor.

Lovely Guanacaste, Costa Rica

The capital of Guanacaste Province and an important agricultural center, Liberia is home to a busy international airport (LIR), and is the closest major city to the Nicaraguan border - it’s a natural hub. Easy access to five national parks, half a dozen active volcanoes, gorgeous beaches, relaxing hot springs and countless waterfalls make Liberia the most convenient base for exploring the region.

It’s also one the cheapest. More dependent on farmers than surfers, on Costa Rican businesspeople than international jet-setters, landlocked Liberia is a more authentic economy. Travelers usually spend several days, exploring the area on a shoestring; I ended up here for two wonderful years after helping update Lonely Planet’s Costa Rica guidebook.

How do you say “lovely place” in guidebook-speak?

I understand the difficulties translating Liberia’s charms into guidebook-speak. Most writers begin with the sabanero (cowboy) theme, and locals do indeed ride their horses into town for a night of drinking, as that’s safer than driving. The annual Fiestas Civicas de Liberia showcase this heritage with concerts, bullfights (killing the bull is illegal) and most importantly, topes, or horse parades. Consider wearing close-toe shoes.

Rush-hour traffic in Guanacaste, Costa Rica

Next, we’ll swoon over Liberia’s shady central plaza and the classic Spanish architecture, not mentioning that these sturdy colonial fortresses of Moorish tiles and secret gardens, constructed from the blinding white volcanic tuff that earned Liberia the nickname “White City,” this is easily the finest in Costa Rica – but pales in comparison to neighboring Nicaragua, of which all Guanacaste was once a part.

Wealthy landowners from n