Archive for September, 2007

I’ve noticed that some artists choose to live and work in one place, rarely leaving the confines of ‘home’. Others take journeys in their hometown, or to foreign lands. Others travel inside their own body or create virtual journeys through sound. Some artists even make travel an integral part of their work and life.

This got me thinking about different ways people — all of us — “travel” day after day, week after week, year after year. Sometimes we travel without meaning to; sometimes we travel and go nowhere; sometimes the journey takes us to unexpected places. Here are the stories of a few different artists, all working on the many different meanings of “travel”.

The Art of travel: The world from a new angle

#1: Trading Places

There are journeys you make every day: to get to work, to pick up the kids from school, to run errands. It’s a form of travel that quickly becomes mundane through repetition and familiarity. Yet what if someone else took your daily route, how would their experience differ and what new perspective might they bring to your well known landscape?

Re-Place in Berlin offers the chance to do just that, to take someone else’s “Transit Route” and undertake the rituals of their everyday routine. What is this special or important about this route, how long does it take? Other people can download and follow your everyday journey, documenting themselves in the places along your familiar paths and providing a new perspective and experience for both of you.

#2: DIY Artist in Residence

Then there’s Sydney artist Lucas Ilhein, who decided to create an artist residency at home, not leaving the boundaries of his inner-west suburb for 2 months. His blog became an important tool for building a new sense of community, taking up challenges from readers, sharing his daily adventures, recipes, local news and politics.

“Each day, I blogged about what went on: who I met, what we did, things I saw going on. There was no set structure to enable me to ‘work in publi’ or ‘interact with the public’. I was the public! For those two months, I ranged around the neighbourhood, drifting anywhere invitations, attractions or curiosity pulled me. Like any artist, I sought out the limitations of my own rules, trying to locate the exact location of the borders, the invisible walls of my cell.”

The “artwork” is not just the resulting blog, or the the printed out text in book form. It was also a charged period of public time, during which the project was living and breathing. Each day, dozens of readers would log on, wondering “what Lucas was up to today”. And a stray comment you left in response to the blog might send Lucas off on a new and unexpected adventure, which would turn up as tomorrow’s story. The show was alive.

“Paradoxically, the restriction I placed on myself - not to leave Petersham - did not reduce my freedom. It actually resulted in an explosion of possibilties within an area I might previously have thought to be indistinguishable from others, and thus unremarkable. As you can see from the thousands of words which make up the resulting blog, Petersham is far from unremarkable.”

#3: Chasing Helsinki

Helsinki resident Wojtec Mejor gives a voice to his city with the project Locating Helsinki, a collaborative effort offering journeys in everyday Helsinki from people who live there. A series of categories including ‘history, leisure, walk route, show a foreign friend, romantisch’ and ‘not romantisch’ allow you to select various locations and types of adventure. These explorations of the urban environment can take you anywhere from walking in the docks and a new harbour construction area, to a Polish and Estonian food shop, via an 18th-Century museum in a Gothic mansion, ending up in a bunker left over from the Crimean War.

#4: Travels with Paavo

Taking their interests further afield, a group of Finnish artists decided to traverse their entire country from the Northern most town Nuorgam to the Southern Hanko. Traveling with Paavo, a stuffed reindeer, Mikropaliskunta is an attempt to investigate the contemporary Finnish identity and sense of place through directly experiencing the country.

“Who is Finnish? What are the symbols of Finland? How has the image of Finland changed? And who defines it? The expedition travelled by a biodiesel car that was packed with five artists and protagonist of the project; a stuffed reindeer Paavo that was searching for new members to its herd.” One of the artists, Mika, says, “In Lappland, nobody survives alone. You need to collaborate. Everything is subject to a process of negotiation, and takes time, while in the city, you have access to instant fulfilment for practically any desire or need”.

#5: Next Stop: Utopia

As part of Informal Architectures, the artist Hugo spends time working in developing nations learning from the shanty towns and temporary structures that spring up in an adhoc fashion through necessity. Arriving in Berlin to take part in Transit Lounge, Hugo talked about creating mini utopias that could actually exist in the world, through a series of informal architectures. It was a joy to see this idea transformed into his green and white stripey fold-out movable creation out on the Berlin streets, where kids played on it, punks kidnapped and stripped it to make skirts, and old men sat in it to read the paper. This is a beautiful small-scale urban intervention that changes the shape of your everyday world for a moment, giving access to a beach holiday or playground through this very simple structure that can be infinitely reconfigured to suit your desires and dreams.

Then there’s the Utopia Travel Project, a mobile video unit traveling in a taxi from Vienna to Cairo, passing through Ljubljana, Zagreb, Sarajevo, Belgrade, Sofia, Istanbul and Beirut. The taxi is equipped with a monitor, providing a temporary projection space and community platform for open dialogue between local and visiting artists, plus the video archive contains material produced by over 120 artists and film directors living in countries along the way. The video works reflect fragments of the cultural, social and political reality in their society and location, with geographic borders and historical influences producing a diverse range of visual documents.

#6: A Place to Rest

The Sarai Initiative in Dehli, India, is an online network and community and a real-world physical hub for ‘research, practice and conversation about contemporary media and urban constellations.’ Traditionally the Sarai was a space in the city or along the highway where travelers and caravans could find shelter, sustenance and companionship. The tavern, public house, oasis or meeting place which was both a destination and a point of departure, or a place to rest in the middle of a journey. The contemporary Sarai offers a place for artists, researchers, historians, media theorists, software designers and digital communities to discuss, create and reflect on the urban international city.

#7: Audio Adventures

Listen carefully, go someplace new

Sound Transit is an audio voyage of discovery around the world. Select your itinerary and number of stop-overs in this elegant interface to experience a journey through field recordings uploaded by various artists and musicians. Recent sonic journeys include a trip taking you from Bali, Indonesia; listening to local tree frogs, via Lyon, France; and the sound of winter manifestations against the anti social laws of 1995 French Prime Minister Jean Francoi Cavro, through Leipzig, Germany; a bicyclist crossing a bridge, to Seltjarnarne, Iceland; and Jon’s 80th Birthday with children singing at a family party, finally landing in Yokohama, Japan, with flags fluttering in the wind at a wharf.

A darker memory of sound is created by Jacob Kirkegaard in his recordings of four abandoned public spaces inside the ‘zone of alienation’ in Chernobyl, Ukraine. Jacob records the ambience of a church, gymnasium, auditorium and swimming pool, then plays them back into the original space. Each is re-recorded up to ten times, and so builds a detailed intimate portrait of the desolate and uninhabitable town.

In his latest sound piece, ‘Labyrinthitis’, Jacob journeys into his own body, the work consists entirely of sounds generated in Kirkegaard’s own ears. Deep inside the labyrinth of the inner ear in a spiral tube called ‘cochlea’ there are thousands of microscopic hair cells functioning as sensory receptors. When sound enters the ear, they begin to vibrate in the watery liquid surrounding them like underwater piano strings. Thus, the hearing organ does not only receive sound, it also generates it, just like an acoustic instrument. A journey deep into the sonic resonance of the ear.

–Jodi Rose

File this under “Only in Thailand”.

We had two elephants come to the village recently for a game of elephant soccer (”football” to those people with funny accents). Now I thought that would mean the two elephants playing soccer against each other. But oh no. In typical Thai style, this turned out to be two elephants playing soccer against the local 12-year-old team.

Apparently everyone thought this was a great idea! So full-tackle soccer with eight 12-year-olds versus two elephants.

Turned out to be marvellous fun; they roped an area off and charged 30 cents for spectators. The elephants were powerful and hard to tackle, but the kids were quick and nimble, a 2-all draw in the end. And no kids got squashed.

Don’t believe me? Well here’s a short video montage I made of kids scoring a goal, and then of the elephants scoring. Gooooooooal! Stick around to the end - the live footage of the elephant goal is a keeper.

–Jordan Digby

Check out Jordan’s earlier post on Life Lessons in Thailand. Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Thailand, Bangkok tours and activities in Phuket.

Editor’s Note: This is the fourth in a series of posts from Jeff Gates, the New Media Lead Producer for the Smithsonian American Art Museum and Managing Editor for its blog, Eye Level. Jeff is on a family vacation, which sounded like a great excuse to publish his trials and tribulations from the road. You can read Jeff’s first post, second post and third post here.

My iPhone and me at Half Dome. What would Samuel Morse have thought?

The highlight of our my Yosemite visit is obvious. Ah, technology and the great outdoors. It couldn’t get any better. My email message documenting the event: “We are blissful at this altitude.” What more can I say?

Well, my wife tells me perhaps just a bit more. We spent two days in the park. We started planning this trip back in April but that was already too late to book a room at the famous Ahwahnee Lodge in the Valley. So we spent our two nights at both the eastern and western edges of the park (in Lee Vining and Mariposa). And while we are not known as the All-American Outdoor Family, we did take a few day hikes in both Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley. While we didn’t stay at the Lodge, one morning we ate breakfast in its wood-beamed dining room. From there it was an easy one and a half mile hike to the foot of Half Dome.

A warning meant just for us? (A larger view makes the point clear)

As we were hiking towards that famous mountain, about half way up the trail we suddenly came upon a cryptic message spelled out in twigs on the ground. It said “WASHINGTON BEAR,” with two arrows pointing north. Did the writer mean to really say “Hey family from Washington, DC, there’s a big black bear over there. Leave now if you ever hope to return to the bedrock of Western Democracy?” Was this message meant for us? I started thinking about the last time I was in Yosemite. Years ago, with my friends Bob and Ellen, I had hiked to 11,000 feet where we camped in a small meadow near a waterfall. We had gone from sea level to 11k in a matter of hours.

And the scenery’s Arcadian beauty provided no antidote for my resulting altitude sickness. I was cold and sick. And in the middle of the night a bear ATTACKED our campsite. Yes, attacked. He was after our food, the food we had not so carefully hung off a large tree branch because we were too cold and too tired to do as the rangers had warned us we must do. It was a night we still talk about (ask our friends who have put up its retelling all these years); although, the trajectories of our individual tellings have gone off in quite different directions. This cautionary sign brought back that night as if it was yesterday. Would history repeat itself?

A few feet later we came upon what looked to us (the Not All-American Outdoor Family) like bear scat! We wondered if we’d make it to our next vacation stop, Gilroy’s annual Garlic Festival. The scent of garlic seemed so much more pleasant than what lay before us and we listened for any sign of a large animal ahead. When we heard a rustle in the leaves along the path we froze.

Suddenly, from behind a large boulder came a horse. Its rider told us we were on the horse trail leading to Half Dome and that we might find it easier to use the paved path just a few yards to the south of us. Looking through the trees I saw bicyclists and day hikers (more Not All-American Outdoor Family types) walking towards the mountain without a care in the world. They were oblivious to our twig warning.

My nine year old was the first to connect the scat with the right animal. She was quite pleased with her deductive abilities and the fact that she was the only one in the family to use them. We still don’t know who made the twig sign or what it meant. But we’re sure it was meant for us.

–Jeff Gates

Coming up next: Jeff and family at the Gilroy Garlic Festival.

I got to thinking the other day: if George W. Bush (leader of the Free World) and John Howard (leader of the Free to go to the Beach World) were to go on vacation together, where would they go, and what sort of things would they do?

Bush was not a big traveler before he got the keys to Air Force One. He’d been to China with his dad, but was travelling officially and didn’t need a passport; nor did he need one for Mexico, so he didn’t have one. And Johnnie Howard seems cut from a similar cloth: for twenty-odd years he took his family on the same summer holiday, to Hawk’s Nest, a sleepy hideaway with a good beach and fishing, just a few hours drive from his home in Sydney. Neither of these blokes were big Lonely Planet fans.

But they’re both about to have some extra time on their hands, and now they’ve got so many new friends around the world they just might venture out a little more. Here’s my Top Five list for “Soon to Retire Conservative Leaders of Democratic Nations.”

1. The Puna Pau & Seven Moai Tour, Easter Island

Remind you of anyone?

There’s a couple of reasons why this is my number one choice. First, check out the photo. These dudes look familiar, and just a little frozen in time, wouldn’t you say? Similarities abound, and our ex-leaders will like that! Second, the locals on Easter Island are so far from everywhere they have a razor-sharp perspective on who and what’s really important, and my guess is George and Johnnie will get no better treatment there than the rest of the tour group. That’s pretty good treatment, of course, but it’ll bring them down to Earth fast. They need that, I reckon.

2. The London Eye, London
Well, naturally. And Tony could pop in as well, it would be like a school reunion. But the best part is the great views of Buckingham Palace, where Betty Windsor is having morning tea with her eleventh Prime Minister. Elected leaders come and go, but Monarchs reign forever, and live in nicer houses, too. Don’t even mention the Royal Train.

3. Bedouin Desert BBQ, Egypt
This one’s a bit cruel, isn’t it? The boys will be absolutely convinced that Osama B-L is behind every camel hump, ready to pop out and give them the raspberry, or the pomegranate or whatever fruit it is that desert-dwellers rely on for “giving it.” Anyway, I reckon they’ll love this tour, they’ll enjoy the food for sure, and spending a little time with some real, live A-rabs — besides the Saudi Royal Family — won’t do them any harm at all.

4. Mekong River Cruise, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Re-writing history is a dangerous business, and we certainly don’t want George W. to get any of his facts wrong as he draws parallels between US forays into Iraq and Vietnam. We’ll resist political commentary and simply say that a few days on the ground in this thriving “Asian Tiger” economy might just convince him that an American victory isn’t the only way to a lasting peace. Educational tours are such fun!

5. Portage Glacier Tour, Anchorage, Alaska

Once it melts it will be easier to get to the oil…

Too easy, really: see the glaciers before they all melt. Both our soon-to-be-ex leaders are recent believers in the horrors of global warming, so they’ll understand why it’s important to get this tour in soon!

While we’re at it, we might calculate the carbon emissions associated with their trip, and whack the cost of an offset onto their bill. They’ll understand that everyone needs to do their bit about global warming, I’m certain!

All these tours and more are available to mere mortals, not just former Heads of State. With any luck, you won’t even bump into either of them when you’re out there. You’ll meet some nice people though, and quickly learn that travel is good for the soul.

It’s just a damn pity George and Johnnie didn’t know that 30-odd years ago. The world might be a better place if they had…

–Rod Cuthbert

Rod Cuthbert is the Founder & Chairman of Viator, Inc. He has travelled widely for many years, but has not invaded any sovereign states, or assisted others in doing so.

Editor’s Note: This is part of Viator’s ongoing series of posts about the 2007 Rugby World Cup. Ian has been tipping his favorite teams in Pools A & B and Pools C & D, and writing about players that matter. Now he’s on the ground in France — you can read his most recent posts here.

Rugby… it is not just about playing the game, it is about looking stylish while you are doing it as well.

And so my prize for the best-looking hairstyles going around, must surely, go to the Tongan team. Nearly every player is sporting a different look, and whether it helps their game or not, I do not know, but they managed to get up over the USA team a couple of days ago, when we watched them down in Montpellier.

The number 8 was the crowd favourite, and I must admit, it was the best afro I have seen for a while. The game was a good contest, and I thought the USA might have come back at the death, but the Tongans held on, on what was a stinking hot day, to win, by 25-15.

Tonga — All about the hair, in a 25-15 win over Team USA

Now I’m ooff to see the All Blacks versus the minnows, Portugal, this arvo, which is going to be a rather one-sided affair. After that, I could be out of action for a week or two, as the better half and I are escaping the cities and immersing ourselves in rural France for a couple of weeks. In the meantime everyone, enjoy the rugby!!

–Ian “Frentzy” Frentz

The question I am posing — to visit or not to visit the Grand Canyon Skywalk when you’re heading to the Grand Canyon and/or taking a Grand Canyon tour.

The Grand Canyon, on a tour from Las Vegas

First, my bias in all this: I have never been to the Grand Canyon. And I am starting to plan the - storied? cliche? inevitable? - family trip to Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, Arizona and the southwest. So I wanted some good, actionable, honest travel advice. My reputation as a ‘dad’ and a ‘husband’ are at stake. It would be our first major family road trip, so I cannot mess it up. (Or else.)

Step 1: Ask people who know

I work at a travel company, so I asked some of our staff. They all agreed on a few things — tour the Grand Canyon from Las Vegas, if you’re planning a summer trip with kids, because the Grand Canyon itself gets hot. As in, HOT HOT HOT.

Fair enough, seems like good advice. I love Vegas, it doesn’t take much to convince me to spend a few days there.

Step 2: Read actual reviews from other travelers

So I spent some time reading reviews from other travelers. The hands-down winner are the reviews of the Grand Canyon All American Helicopter tour. Words like “fantastic” and “brilliant” and “awesome” and “limo ride back to the hotel” make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Equally strong praise is given to the self-drive Hummer to the Grand Canyon, which includes optional tickets to the Skywalk and a helicopter/boat ride along the river. Cool! I also like the idea of being on my own schedule.

Most people seem to think the Skywalk is definitely worth the effort. It’s clear there was some teething pains when the Skywalk first opened - some of the comments were scathing about the lack of sun protection, lack of shade, lack of facilities, etc. But it sounds like things have improved in the 6 months or so since the Skywalk opened. The reviews from travelers are sounding a lot more positive in the past month or so.

Step 3: Look at pretty pictures of the Grand Canyon Skywalk

The Grand Canyon Skywalk

Finally, the pictures on the Viator Flickr site of the Grand Canyon Skywalk have really whetted my appetite for visiting it (not to mention my appetite for visiting the Grand Canyon itself, plus Las Vegas and Hoover Dam). It looks like the sort of thing that happens only in America, and only in close proximity to the over-the-top wondrousness that is Las Vegas.

So now, after all this research, am I convinced? I must admit it - I am. I went from being so-so about doing this to being a total convert to the idea of a family vacation to the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, the Skywalk and maybe even Death Valley National Park.

All I need now is 2 weeks of holiday.

–Scott McNeely

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Grand Canyon Skywalk tours and tours to the Grand Canyon, from Las Vegas.

Egypt in August was, in hindsight, an odd time to have chosen. But it fitted in with a whole lot of other plans so, “what they hey?” we thought.

“What the temperature?”, would have been more apt.

At an average daily temperature of 42C (107F) we didn’t understand what we were in for. But here are our sweaty, exhausted, elated and totally satisfied suggestions:

The Good of the Many vs. the Good of the Few

Luke, thinking “what the temperature?!?!?”

One of the truly great advantages of traveling in low season to a highly touristed destination is the lack of crowds. Instead of visiting sites that look like they’re shooting a remake of Lawrence of Arabia with Voyage of the Damned and Chevy Chase in Vacation, you’ll have the luxury of sitting back imagining that YOU are that Boy King in that wall frieze, being hand-fed grapes, watching hippos being speared while Ibis nibble at your toes and the 20th century slips away.

There’s no one in sight! It will make the hairs go up on the back of your neck!

Time Out

It’s a dry heat in Egypt, so while not as oppressive as an Asian monsoon, you will still tire quickly. That means it’s a fine line between “A masterpiece from 3000 BC” and “Another heap of stones”. Don’t be afraid to say you’re all templed out and opt for a dip in the pool and a cold beer — instead of looking like a ‘before’ shot for a Gatorade ad. Enjoy everything you see instead of resenting an entire Dynasty for building something so bloody HUGE. It’s all been there for thousands of years - so see it (and enjoy it) next time. (We did a pyramid and bazaar tour and can definitely recommend that, but go slow in the heat.)

Distilled Essence of Pester

The lack of other tourists does mean there’s less meat for the kill — in the bazaars, for the stall holders and for the sellers of well, everything. Chances are you weren’t in the market for clothes pegs or a bushel of cloves in the first place, but you can’t hide behind someone who looks even more vulnerable (because they’re still at home planning their visit for a cooler month). I hate bargaining. Truly. But there were things I had to have. The plastic ruler with the phonetic hieroglyphic stencils so you could write your name as “bread, falcon, lotus flower, boot,” for example. That, and a Fez. A red one.

Luke’s Rules for Lame Non-Hagglers

That is, for lame non-hagglers who would prefer to put something on AmEx and be done with it!

Rule #1? KNOW what you WANT and once you dive in, be focused on it with a laser-like intensity but don’t be seen to be focusing - after all, you’re “only browsing” right?.

Glance at “IT” almost in passing, pick it up, then put it down slowly, then watch your friendly merchant set the pace. Offer one-third, wait for the gnashing of teeth and wailing, but don’t be moved. Feel OK to move on - but in a smiling, nice way. This will not be the only store in the whole Nile Delta with plastic hieroglyphic rulers.

Prices for bulk - as in, “How much for two?” - will work out cheaper than the unit price you’ve just been told won’t even feed his poor donkey, let alone a family of 11.

Slow, smiling, friendly persistence will pay off.

I have 4 rulers now.

Cruisin’

At temperatures like this, a Nile cruise is a magical way to see things without losing your cool. And we loved our Mirage Nile Cruise. In much the same way as the cartoon backgrounds go past in Fred Flintstone episodes, the unbelievably beautiful too-stereotypical-to-be-true backgrounds come and go as you float by. Palm trees, minarets, little boys on donkeys, little boats cutting reeds, water buffalo - all from your sun deck.

Luke enjoys his relaxing Nile Cruise

You can really lose yourself in it. But remember there are about 300 of these boats chugging up and down the stretch of water between Luxor and Aswan, so it’s a little like a 6 lane aqua highway at times. Just don’t let that detract from the magic of a desert sunset.

And know that four nights is enough on board.

Oh, and beware the audience-participation entertainment unless you’re TRULY a sado-masochist. The Finnish woman next to me almost cried from embarrassment when she had to kiss the 2-man Nubian horse on stage.

Something Special

You should definitely take the day tour by air to Abu Simbel. Moving this temple to higher ground to prevent flooding by the High Dam is good enough reason to marvel, but the beauty of the temple makes it a particularly spectacular day out, too.

Traveling by air gives you at least some sense of the immensity of desert out there too. (Boarding cards for the 30-minute flight are distributed freely, so I traveled as Mrs. Javier while My partner was Mr. Jesus. Those boarding passes are now on the fridge.)

Oh, and the trip highlight? The sound and light show at Aswan was beautiful since it was set on a little island that you have to take a boat to. The cool of night gives this experience a whole new perspective. It starts with the ubiquitous “Since the dawn of time…” but hey, it’s a sound and light show! And a very well done one, too.

You’ll love this country. But decide which is your incentive, i.e. less heat or less crowds, and as long as you don’t feel you have to do everything you’ll feel like that Boy King, I promise.

–Luke Crosthwaite

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Egypt, things to see and do in Cairo, and sightseeing in Hurghada & Sharm el Sheikh. You can also browse more of Luke’s Egypt photos over on the Viator Flickr site.

There are not too many places – so we were told – better to travel with a baby than Spain.

Still, my wife and I were feeling low-level anxiety as we arrived at our apartment in Madrid’s Sol district for five days of intentionally unplanned vacation time. The loooooong flight from Australia was a week behind us; our arrival in Madrid was just a short hop from Rome. Our little one, 8-month-old Seamus, had proven to be quite the little traveller, enduring long flights and long car trips with only as much complaining as his adult companions.

John & Seamus in Madrid

Still, we were a bit nervous: Would the apartment be ok? Would he settle into another new environment? With not much of the local language, would we be able to find suitable food? Would we be able to get about the city ok?

And, importantly, would we get the opportunity to sample the city’s famed nightlife, bar hopping and tapas-stuffing into the wee hours?

We needn’t have wasted our time worrying. Madrid was marvellous from start to finish. A great city, and also a great city to explore with a young child. Seamus wasn’t really crawling, but he was increasingly interested in his surrounds – his talent for smiling at strangers opened many doors for us (literally and metaphorically).

His sociability combined with the wonderfully generous Madrileños; from a 10-year-old boy playing peek-a-boo while both boys’ mothers browsed in a shoe shop to a twenty-something metro worker playing with Seamus’s toes while we waited for a train to a middle-aged shop attendant holding him while both mum and dad tried on clothes, our daylight wanderings were easier than anywhere else we’d been (including home).

Spanish locals operate to a different rhythm; a different sense of time. With a siesta during the day, it’s entirely common to see families - including children - eating and enjoying each other’s company at 11 and 12 at night. Dinner time in Madrid isn’t really until 10pm. How would our little man cope, given his usual 7pm bed time? For a couple of nights, we decided not to risk it. We’d have lovely long lunches, then retreat to the predictability of the apartment where we’d cook up some food, have him in bed at the regular time, and spend the evening reading, chatting and watching a dubbed version of Jaws on the TV (“Necesitamos un barco más grande”… still scary).

Miracle of miracles: Seamus has a kip in Madrid

Three nights in, we arranged to meet a guy I’d corresponded with as part of my work. He was English, living in Madrid with his Spanish wife, and they wanted to take us out. So we fearfully popped Seamus in the pusher and headed off at 7pm for the Plaza Major. Meeting up successfully, we went off towards La Latina and settled around an outside table at one of the many similar bar/restaurants that fill the streets. And – miracle of miracles – Seamus fell asleep. We kicked back, talked, laughed, drank and ate through the evening.

At about 11pm, the kid woke up for a feed. We’d moved inside by then, and he perked up more than usual. No problems, though – he was in a room full of locals! Everyone wanted their turn – grinning, talking, playing, nursing. By midnight, it was time to head home – our hosts had to work the next morning, and Seamus was starting to get a bit ratty – but we’d certainly proved a point to ourselves.

–John Ryan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Madrid and Spain.

Barcelona has to be one of the coolest cities to visit in the Mediterranean. It’s certainly one of my favourites, and it’s large enough for several days’ sightseeing, as well as a decent base for exploring nearby towns on a day trip. What follows are the highlights from my visit last year, which would make a good three- or four-day city break.

La Sagrada Familia & Gaudí Museum

Probably the number one attraction that you’ll hear most travellers harp on about, it’s safe to say that Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece of Modernista architecture is a must-see on any first visit. El Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family) is a truly awesome monument that single-handedly encapsulates Catalonia’s historical urge to be that little bit different.

Gaudi’s Barcelona

Lying some distance north-east the Plaça de Catalunya, and a couple of blocks north of Avenida Diagonal, the church can easily consume a couple of hours of your time as you explore the numerous facades and climb the many twisted towers that dominate the surrounding neighbourhood. Still far from complete more than 80 years after Gaudí’s death, it’s easy to lose sight of the precise religious symbolism that pervades the exterior artistry, such is the church’s almost over-powering size.

Entrance fees are €8 (€5 for students), and opening times are 09.00 to 20.00 during the summer season, and 09.00 to 18.00 from October to March. Audio guides are available for just €3, and are to be recommended to enable you to truly appreciate what you’re looking at. For vertigo sufferers and those less athletic amongst you, there’s a lift that carries you up one of the towers, for an extra €1.50.

The Museu Gaudí (Gaudí Museum), located in the crypt, is well worth a visit, and costs just an extra euro when added to the main entrance fee above. Tracing the life and career of the architect, the models, photos and illustrations provide a useful basic introduction to the surrounding works of the church.

Museu Picasso

Barcelona’s most frequented museum is housed in a fine medieval palace on the narrow Carrer de Montcada between La Rambla and the Parc de la Ciutadella. Representing the only major collection of Picasso’s work in his native country, the main emphasis is on the artist’s formative years. While this means none of his best-known works are on display, the collection nevertheless provides a fascinating insight into how the paintings of a young boy developed into the major works of later years. Admission is €4.80.

La Rambla & the Gothic Quarter

The most famous street in Spain provides a fabulous taste of Barcelona’s somewhat eccentric character. Lined with trees from Plaça de Catalunya in the north all the way to the Columbus monument in the south, visitors will encounter an array of animals, plants, jewellery, books and cigarettes from the many vendors, as well as seemingly dozens of human statues and performance artists. Few places are better suited to people watching.

A hub of activity day and night, La Rambla is criss-crossed with a plethora of cafes, restaurants and bars, making this the ideal place to explore Barcelona’s nightlife. In particular the Gothic Quarter, lying east of the street, is a classic medieval labyrinth of winding streets, cute plazas and fantastic monuments, some of which date from the 15th century. Chill and relax in the quarter’s many watering holes. Be wary of the back streets towards the southern end of the street, however – adorned with peep shows and a few strip clubs, this is definitely the seedier area.

Magic Fountains at night

Montjuïc

This steep hill situated about 700m southwest of La Rambla is the largest open green area in the city, and features enough attractions to fill at least a day. One of the best ways to visit the area is to take the Tourist Train, which departs from the Plaça d’Espanya every half an hour, costs just €3.20 for the whole day, and stops at all the major sights.

A great evening walk, if somewhat strenuous, takes you from Plaça d’Espanya along the majestic Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina and up to the towering Palau Nacional de Montjuïc. Sparkling fountains dominate the ascent, none more so than the Magic Fountain in the centre of the avenue. The stunning music, light and water show during the evenings, in which both the Magic Fountain and the Palau Nacional are lit, is one of my favourite images of the city, and one that I have never tired of experiencing on each of my previous visits.

Admission to the fountains is free, and they are switched on every 30 minutes from 7 - 8:30pm every Friday and Saturday from October to late June, and 8:30 - 11:30pm Thursday to Sunday from late June to September.

Cultural places of interest in the area include the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (admission €4.80), housed in the Palau Nacional and widely considered to be Barcelona’s best art museum, featuring arguably the world’s most important collection of Romanesque art. Also be sure not to miss the Fundació Joan Miró (admission €7.20) – a splendid gallery of paintings, sculptures and tapestries dedicated to one of Barcelona’s greatest 20th century artist.

For recreation and souvenirs you could do worse than to explore the Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village), a curiously picturesque collection of Spanish popular architecture and handicrafts, set amidst cute little plazas and streets (€7 per adult). Sporting enthusiasts will enjoy visiting facilities such as the neat 1992 Olympic Stadium, the Olympic Ring Esplanade and the Palau Sant Jordi, a 17,000-capacity indoor sports centre.

Barcelona’s Food & Nightlife

Like most top cities, Barcelona boasts an array of hotspots for wining, dining and having fun, so what follows is just a sample of what’s on offer. Beware of La Rambla – whilst no doubt a pleasant place for an afternoon drink or snack, bar prices tend to be ridiculously overpriced.

The Gothic Quarter is littered with good-value places to eat. For decent bocadillos (€3-5) try Can Conesa, a popular eatery for locals, while La Cereria offers great vegetarian meals at low prices (€10). For more up-market stuff, and fantastic seafood, head to La Barceloneta, where you can dine comfortably overlooking the waterfront. A personal favourite is Merendero de la Mari, which features an assortment of decent paellas from around €10 to €16.

For nightlife, the Gothic Quarter is littered with funky late-night bars such as Café Royale and Dot Light Club, while Mirablau is an absolute must – located in Tibidabo, take a taxi (or train to Avunguada del Tibidabo) and sample the amazing vista over the entire city from a balcony spot. Down by the waterfront, Port Olímpic features bar after disco after bar – some might find it a bit tacky, but there’s no denying the fact that it’s very, very lively.

Day Trip to Sitges

Sitges’ harbour

If you’ve time, a visit to this lovely seaside town 30km south of Barcelona makes a great day trip – or more. Indeed soaking up the sun on the long sandy beach, sampling the awesome nightlife and perusing the many shopping boutiques boast in favour of a longer stay, if at all possible.

The train journey from Barcelona takes 30 minutes (€2.25), and with four trains running each hour from 6am to 10pm, you won’t be waiting around ages to get here. On arrival at the station, a short walk through the pleasant alleyways takes you to the main beach, which is split into sections by breakwaters. A delightful stroll can be had along the pedestrian promenade that runs along the whole length of the beach, while several restaurants and bars will tempt you away from the seafront.

If you’ve time, climb the mound that overlooks the beaches, topped by La Punta – a Baroque parish church – and a street of aged whitewashed mansions. A couple of museums can also be found here, although it’s difficult to see them as anything more than a distraction from the town’s rampant decadence!

If you decide to follow my advice and stay for the nightlife, then the best bet is to simply head where the crowds do: Calle del Pecado (Sin Street) – a Mecca of gay-friendly disco delights that will see you hitting it large until breakfast!

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s Barcelona tours and things to do in Spain.

Editor’s Note: This is part of Viator’s ongoing series of posts about the 2007 Rugby World Cup. Ian has been tipping his favorite teams in Pools A & B and Pools C & D, and writing about players that matter. Now he’s on the ground in France — you can read his first post here. Apparently Ian forgot to bring his camera out today, so no photos yet. Ian is very sorry about that.

Live from Lyon!! So the RWC is a few days old now, and there have been a couple of blow-outs, a couple of surprises, and even that France / Argentina upset…

We were at the Australia / Japan game, no surprises with the scoreline there, the Aussies winning by 90-odd points. But I am curious to know why, when a team scores that many points, a starting winger like Lote Tuqiri does not score any. Drew Mitchell scored 2 or 3, and he was only on the field for 20 minutes or so. Someone did mention that it was a second-string Japan team, and that they are saving themselves for other teams in their pool.

A word of warning as well to anyone going to a game - security is tight. I have never seen a crowd of 40,000 been given individual pat-downs before, so allow plenty of time to get into the stadiums. Was in a pub to watch most of the game between the All Blacks and Italy. The entire pub went eerily silent when the All Blacks performed the Haka - very spooky.

And a couple of mighty efforts from the teams outside the top 8. I thought the USA performed very well againsts the Poms, and England will need to lift their game if they want to do well in this tournament. Portugal surprised by putting 10 points against Scotland, even though they lost the match, and some of the hits in the Samoa / South Africa game were massive!! Brian Lima, “The Chiropractor”, tackled someone so hard that he knocked himself out!!

We are off to see Argentina / Georgia tonight, in Lyon. You can usually tell which games are on, as you see fans in their teams colours wandering around town. A few days ago there were Wallaby fans everywhere, and then a day later, it seemed every second person was wearing a kilt when Scotland fans hit town…

–Ian “Frentzy” Frentz