Archive for November, 2007

Our Guest Blogger at the Vatican

Editor’s note: The following was written by guest blogger Dr. Carla Melchior. Dr. Melchior is an Italian living between Italy and the United States. She is the principal of Studio Melchior, a leading translation company, and a freelance writer. She is a cancer survivor and is active in fund-raising activities designed to support women with breast cancer in both Europe and the US. Carla is a frequent traveller, but until recently did not include her home country in her sightseeing plans.

Last week my husband and I were in Rome for few days. We’re Italian and, naturally, in love with our country, so we like to visit it as much as we can. However, there are some things we tend to avoid doing because we think they’re a bit too “touristy”. One of these was undoubtedly the tour of the Vatican Museums. The last time we went we were kids. We visit Rome quite often and for some time had wanted to go back to the Vatican Museums to see the Sistine Chapel after its 14-year closure and long-awaited re-opening in 1994. Unfortunately the endless queues to get in had always discouraged us.

If you don’t pre-book? A 5 hour wait!

Then we found Viator. To discover something very close to us, we contacted a company miles away, right on the other side of the world. The tour we chose is called Skip the line: Private Vatican Museums Walking Tour. You may not know just how LONG the line that you skip by buying tickets on Viator actually is. Look here! It can take up to five hours! Our private tour guide, Valeria Pugiotto, was just wonderful, with an exceptional background, very professional, friendly and extremely careful to satisfy our needs. The Vatican Museums are of course fantastic, but they are so immense that it is very easy to get lost and miss the most important masterpieces. There’s no way that you can see everything in one visit. However, having your own private tour guide, a person who understands your preferences, makes a huge difference. You have the impression that you are going to the right place.

What happened to the Trevi fountain?

It’s an anthology of the most important works of eastern history. Masterpieces, harmonious composition and mastery of light and line. Vibrant sense of life. Astonishing technical skills. And very often also provocative sensuality, remote from the sober and restrained Catholic tradition. Then, in other pieces, harmonious sobriety and elegance. And then of course the Sistine Chapel. Faced with a work of this magnitude, a human being feels as though he’s alone. The spell is immediate. You cease to notice the crowd around you. “Thou wonder, and thou beauty and thou terror” as Shelley would say. Or Goethe, who said “Thinking is more interesting than knowing, but less interesting than looking”. And when you find yourself in the Sistine Chapel, that’s exactly your sensation.

It was a magnificent experience. Of course Rome is simply unique, maybe the most beautiful city on this planet. The oldest city in the world, but always full of excitement… even in places you’ve seen time and time again over the years, Rome always has a few surprises in store and offers the opportunity to see a sight in a new light, as happened to us when we got to the Trevi Fountain and saw it colored red by a would-be rebel artist, and then restored to its original color two hours later.

Italiani di tutto il mondo, unitevi! Se volete conoscere meglio non solo il mondo ma anche il nostro stesso paese, affidatevi alle mani esperte di Viator.*

Don’t be intimidated by the fact that Viator is not Italian, these guys know our country better than us… You won’t regret it, take the word of us Happy Papals.

–Dr. Carla Melchior

* “Italians of the world, unite! If you want to know better not only the world but also our own country, entrust yourselves to the expert hands of Viator.” Thanks Dr. Melcior, we couldn’t have said it better ourselves. And yes, she really did write that line, we aren’t making it up!

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Rome tours, including Vatican & Sistine Chapel tours and day trips to Pompeii.

Good news: the stagehands strike that has shut down much of Broadway for the past few weeks has been resolved. That’s the news coming out of New York City this morning.

According to several news outlets in New York, all shows will be up and running on their regular schedules in time for the evening performances on Thursday, November 29.

So if you have tickets for an upcoming performance, go see the show! Starting from tonight all performances will run as scheduled and all existing tickets will be honored. If you’ve been holding off purchasing tickets, delay no longer! The crowds are expected back in full force. That’s a not-so-subtle hint to head over to the main Viator.com site to pre-book your New York City Broadway theater tickets. Can’t decide what show to see? Have no fear, hundreds of Viator travelers have already rated & reviewed the top shows in New York. Here is a snapshot of the top-rated Broadway shows, based on reviews from Viator travelers:

• Mamma Mia! on Broadway. Review in Viator.com: “Wow! A wonderful show and my front row seat right in the middle made it even more enjoyable.” (Read all Mamma Mia! show reviews.)
• The Lion King. Viator.com review: “I was told this was a good show but OH MY GOD, you have got to see it to believe it, it was the best show I have ever been to. If I had more time in New York, I would have went to see it a second time. Any words I write won’t do it justice, it is a fantastic production and will be the highlight of any trip.” (Read all Lion King show reviews.)
• Phantom of the Opera. Viator.com review: “When we go back to New York City, we will definitely get our tickets from Viator. I am amazed that we ended up three rows from the stage. Our daughter, who is very interested in theater, watched the entire show with her mouth open. She was in awe! Thank you so much!” (Read all Phantom of the Opera show reviews.)
• Monty Python’s Spamalot. Viator.com review: “Funny from start to finish! I took my family, aged from ten to forty four, and we all enjoyed the show. Even if you’re not a Python fan, as long as you like to laugh, you’ll love this.” (Read all Monty Python’s Spamalot show reviews.)

Check out our complete list of New York City tours, and book a NYC Broadway show now that the strike is over. Enjoy New York, see a show, break a leg.

–Scott McNeely

There’s really no better gift than a Viator gift certificate, but let’s say that you just gave someone a travel gift certificate and can’t possibly regift that again. Then what should you buy for your favorite traveler this holiday season? Might I make a few unique and possibly frivolous suggestions? If nothing else, perhaps this will serve as inspiration for whoever draws my name in the Viator Secret Santa present swap.

1. Plane Sheets: Let’s face it, seats on planes are boring, and sometimes, kinda yucky. Who wouldn’t want a leopard print airplane seat cover? I’m not sure how practical this is, no one wants to be the annoying person holding up the boarding line because you want to get your plane sheet just so on the seat, but for an international flight, might be cool.
2. Virtual Laser Keyboard: If you have ambitions to seem like you’re a Jason Bourne-Mission Impossible kind of spy when you’re on the road, you need this keyboard. A great gift for business travel road warriors, it will make them seem much cooler than they really are.
3. Sennheiser Noise Cancelling Headphones: Worth every penny I spent. The batteries last forever, and the comfort and noise reduction is top notch. I never leave home without them. A must have for any long haul traveler, you’ll feel much better when you get off the plane, studies show that all the engine noise can be physically tiring.
4. iPod speakers: Any small, battery and plug in powered speaker system with an iPod dock is a great gift. Play it in a rental car on the road trip, or pimp out the hotel room with some tunes.
5. Rimowa luggage: The main drawback of hard sided luggage is that you can’t overstuff it with all the extra things you just had to buy and bring home. Which is why Rimowa’s luggage is genius. Constructed of some space age plastic (like I know what, I am so not an engineer) that is nigh on indestructible, yet still flexible enough to bulge out and take a reasonable amount of over stuffing. I have popped it back into shape after particularly perilous journeys where other luggage would have gotten ripped or dented. A bonus for being lightweight and cool looking (again, the whole spy factor here).

So there’s five suggestions, nay 6! Viator gift certificates count as one. Go forth to snazz up your carry on bag. Leave a comment if you’ve got other great travel gift suggestions, but I don’t want to see any boring power adapters on the list!

– Kelly G

Regular visitors to the Viator Travel Blog may have noticed that I traveled to Egypt recently and kind of enjoyed it a bit. I did not know what to expect and arrived in Cairo with some trepidation about a culture, religion and way of life I didn’t understand. I admit arriving with a touch of ignorance and a small tinge of fear. Before leaving I found it hard to find good information about what to expect so I thought I’d share a couple of the things that I would have liked to know before I got there.

How much does Kerrie love Egypt? Lots.

1. Money: Small notes (1, 5, 10) are like gold in Egypt! You pretty much tip everyone who looks at you so you will need a good supply of small notes handy. I believe there are coins as well, but I never saw them! Wages are criminally low so Egyptians rely on tips from foreigners and locals alike, so stock up on the small notes. Also, it’s very, very difficult to get change so try and get as much as you can before arriving (even banks are reluctant to share). One of the happiest moments of my trip was finding an ATM in Aswan that gave out 10 pound notes! (opposite the Basma Hotel, next to the Nubia Museum).

2. Water: No surprise here, avoid tap water and only drink bottled water. Clean your teeth with bottled or boiled water, and avoid unpeeled fruits and vegetables. The real tip though for water is to remember to take it with you everywhere. Each and every time you leave your hotel room or cruise ship, grab a bottle. Sure it’s available to buy at the temples and bazaars, but you will be charged exorbitant prices and have to run the bargaining gauntlet to get your hands on some.

3. Private Guides: Egypt is a cheap place to travel so use your pennies to get yourself a private guide. Instead of trudging around the famous sites with 50 other people while adhering to their timetable, with a private guide you determine how long you spend at each place. It also gives you the chance to spend time with an Egyptian and they are always happy to share details of their life with you. Ask every question you can come up with about the country and lifestyle, you might just learn something. Also make sure your tour has hotel pick up if you haven’t been to Egypt before, it can be difficult to get directions.

Alabaster Factory in Luxor – well worth a visit

4. Dress: Yes, Egypt is a predominantly Muslim country, however they are pretty relaxed and accepting of other cultures and religions. Relying heavily on tourism, Egypt values its visitors and does not expect everyone to do everything their way. As a female (and a blonde one at that, the worst kind for traveling in a Muslim country according to the guide books…), I was weary of how to dress, however it became clear very quickly I could just dress like I would at home. I would not recommend hitting the town in hot pants and a boob tube, some discretion please, but do not worry too much about exposed legs, arms and shoulders. Skirts, shorts, sleeveless tops and dresses are all acceptable within reason, just avoid anything too short or too low cut. And for your sightseeing and day trips - wear flat, comfortable, closed toe shoes - there’s alot of sand to walk on in Egypt!

5. Beer: If you are a beer drinker - beware! Due to the heat, the beer in Egypt has loads of preservatives which can unfortunately have a laxative effect. There is one brand called Sakkara which is preservative free, so I suggest you stick to this one…

6. Hassle: Forget the Curse of Tutankhamun and how the Pyramids were built, the biggest myth for travelers to Egypt is that there will be hassle, hassle, hassle. I hate to bargain when shopping and I hate being pressured so I was definitely dreading the alleged hassle that most guide books warn you about. In contrast, I experienced minimal hassle from local shop owners. Yes they call out to you “my friend”, “free for you”, “you English?”, but a firm and polite “la shu-kran” — no thank you, was enough for their eyes to wander to the next potential customer. Also wearing a hat and dark glasses helps avoid the eye contact which the vendors are desperately trying to get from you. Luxor is a little more aggressive than the other big cities, but this is understandable when you consider tourism is 80% of the city’s income. Overall I was pleasantly surprised and ended up with more souvenirs of the trip than I had expected.

7. Shopping: There is plenty of plastic Tutankhamun’s and stuffed camels to buy in Egypt, everywhere in the world has their fair share of tacky souvenirs, but there is also some good quality items. The biggies to look out for are Papyrus, Alabaster/granite, gold and Egyptian cotton. Regardless of what tours you do, you will always be offered the chance to visit stores specializing in these products, often at set prices. They may not be the cheapest but if you are like me and not into the whole haggling thing, its a great way to shop. Just remember, if you don’t want to go you can just say no thanks. Obviously guides get a commission from sales to supplement their income, but big deal, can you blame them for wanting to supplement their income? I went to an Alabaster Factory in Luxor, the one place where you feel a little more pressure, and I browsed and left without buying anything. It was important to me to prove you are not obliged (and in fairness to my guides, they never made me feel obligated to buy anything) and I did. So take the chance to see how Papyrus paper is made and how Alabaster is carved, have a look at what’s on offer and buy if you want - your choice.

8. Camera: No matter where you are, or who they are, do not ever give your camera to someone else to take a photo for you - it will cost you dearly to get it back. If you want your photo taken somewhere, ask your guide or a fellow traveler, not the tourist police, not the temple staff, not the friendly camel owner and definitely not the guy with the Pharaoh head-dress who appears out of nowhere ‘my friend’. This is the scam you need to be aware of, so exercise some common sense and don’t hand over any valuables to complete strangers.

9. Egyptian Museum: Make this one of the last places you visit. Treasures from around Egypt have ended up here and it makes for a more interesting visit once you have seen their original homes, heard their stories and understand their significance. When you gaze upon the treasures of King Tutankhamun you can imagine how amazed Howard Carter would have been to open the untouched tomb once you have seen the arid location it was discovered in. The Museum is so big that unless you have several weeks to explore it in depth, you need to know what you are looking for and want to see.

10. Chill out: Relax! You do not need to take any more precautions in Egypt than you would traveling to most Western countries. People are very kind and respectful and I felt safer there than I often do in Sydney. It’s a different culture, no question there, but that doesn’t make it wrong, just different. Open your eyes and open your mind and Egypt will find a place in your heart.

If you are traveling to Egypt in the future, I hope these little tips help you feel more comfortable about the wonderful experience you are going to have, and for the record, I may have said no at the Alabaster Factory but there were so many nice things I had to ask my guide to take me to another one the next day — the things I do in the line of duty!

–Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours & things to do in Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

Editor’s Note: These are the 3rd & 4th posts in a series from John “traveler, father & wit” Ryan. Somehow we forgot to publish John’s post from Bellingen, so we’re making up for lost time with today’s double-post. Have kid, will travel is John’s motto. Read his first post here.

East Coast Australia Part 4: Coffs Harbour to Byron Bay

John & Seamus at Belongil Beachouse, Byron Bay

With the weather warming and the landscape changing around us – taking on a distinctly sub-tropical feel – the drive from Bellingen to Byron Bay has been the most enjoyable of our trip so far. It was also a great opportunity to be reminded how BIG Australia is.

In 1963 the owner of a banana plantation in Coffs Harbour decided he wanted to encourage more visitors. And so Australia’s first ‘Big Thing’ – the Benny-Hill-esque Big Banana - was built. There are now more than 80 big things in Australia, ranging from cheese to earthworms to avocados. The Big Banana remains an operational – and popular - tourist attraction, featuring rides, tours and anything else banana-related that you can think of. Hilarious, really. And driving north out of Coffs, you really can’t miss it.

Two and a half hours later, on the fringe of Ballina, it’s the Big Prawn. Not nearly as fun or successful as the Banana, it’s home to a restaurant and souvenir shop. Australians have a saying for something that’s turned bad: “Gone off like a prawn in the sun.” As we drove by, it didn’t look like the faded pink crustacean was getting much shade - or many tourists - these days.

Palm trees, sugar cane, sun. It’s hard not to relax. And the mood certainly rubbed off on little Seamus, who seemed to enjoy every moment of this 3-and-a-half hour drive. We remembered to pack his favourite CD – a great kid-friendly reggae album from the fun Putuyamo label. He bopped on a back-beat all the way!

Early afternoon and we arrived in Byron Bay. Far busier and less idyllic than I’d imagined, Byron is now a bustling little city struggling to retain its old hippie-era charm. We’re staying at the Belongil Beachouse, which is a 5-minute drive from town, and just across the road from a lovely stretch of beach. With a distinct hostel feel, Belongil has all we need (except a DVD player, so no Bananas in Pyjamas for Seamus for a few days…), but is not quite as toddler-friendly as we’d imagined. No big issues - the place is clean and friendly – but next time we’ll try to find something just a shade more upmarket.

Seamus is in love with Bananas in Pyjamas. For non-Aussies, they’re a couple of TV bananas who, er, wear pyjamas. They’re good fun, but this obsession is becoming a headache. Can we wean him off the dreaded yellow fruit?

We had a fantastic walk on the beach, and really felt like the holiday was happening. Three nights in one place was going to be lovely. Having picked up a BLT for lunch and a pizza for dinner, we’re astounded by the Byron prices. The big chain supermarket here is reported to be the most expensive in Australia, and judging from the cost of fast food, I believe it. Bargain hunters beware! Today we’re off to the lighthouse and hopefully to do the walk around the bluff. It’s windy, so we’ll need to hold on to our hats…

East Coast Australia, Part 3: Bellingen to Coffs Harbour

Here we are in Bellingen, a small town about 15 minutes off the highway, inland from the popular holiday destination of Coffs Harbour. This is the third instalment of our East Coast Australia roadtrip, with the three of us (myself, my wife Elissa and our 20-month-old son Seamus) having a great time.

Seamus meets the pig at Bellingen Family Cabins

Not wanting to drive any more than 4 hours a day, we stopped off last night at the Bellingen Family Cabins, a really lovely 2-cabin property, featuring a pig, a little dog, some chickens and a slide. Just perfect for Seamus. Bellingen itself is really lovely – the town has one main street aimed both at locals and visitors. There’s not much to do but kick back with a coffee and enjoy the bucolic lifestyle. Much more our pace than the busy high-rise of Coffs Harbour.

We grabbed some nice Thai takeaway for dinner and enjoyed the evening with a bottle of wine. I also picked up a couple of Wicked Elf Pale Ales from a Bellingen bottle shop. I hadn’t seen this beer before, and can highly recommend it if you like those American-style hop beers (like Sierra Nevada from California or Melbourne’s Mountain Goat Hightail Ale).

Our last couple of days were spent with family in Forster, midway between Sydney and Coffs. It’s a really lovely area, on the coast at the entrance to the ‘Great Lakes’. Fabbo fishing, classic beaches and really lovely small-town atmosphere. We took a trip one morning to nearby Seal Rocks which was an absolutely beautiful, almost deserted beach.

Seamus is travelling well. His scorched finger – acquired on Day 1 – is looking better, but is still covered and giving him a bit of grief. He’s sleeping better each night, and seems to be enjoying the travel. Now that he’s a toddler, it’s hard work keeping things moving fast enough for him, but he’s managed to find fun everywhere we’ve taken him so far. We’re trying to keep his night-time routine the same wherever we are, with the knowledge that daytime is going to be a bit more unpredictable. So far, so good.

This morning we head up the road to famous Byron Bay – one of Australia’s most popular holiday destinations – situated on the easternmost point of the Australian mainland. Can’t wait.

–John Ryan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Australia, Gold Coast activities, and a complete list of kid-friendly and family-friendly tours in Australia.

I’m not originally from the northern hemisphere. But now that I live up here, only now do I realise just how idyllic my native southern hemisphere was. Is.

Growing up in the souther hemisphere, each year my mother sent me to the family dairy farm in Golden Bay, at the top of the South Island of New Zealand, for a two-month summer holiday. Celebrating Christmas with the family, picking juicy blood plums from the tree in the garden, swimming in the crystal-clear river on the property, visiting the milking shed while the cows stared mournfully at me from those deep dark eyes. A simple, innocent life in a small New Zealand country town.

Now, 20 years later, New Zealand is a Mecca for national and international tourists driving along the extravagantly beautiful coastline, filling up in one of the many cafes that have sprung up on the main streets, or stocking up on supplies for the trek through Abel Tasman National Park or along the Heaphy Track.

Around the New Year there is steady stream of happy campers making their way to one of the raves further along the coast (travel tip: check out the local music shop and organic store for fliers in places like Farewell Spit, perhaps one day The Gathering will be on again). In fact, if I was showing you my New Zealand, this is where I would take you…

New Zealand: The beauty breaks your heart

Suggested Itineraries in New Zealand: Christchurch to Wine Country

Start in Christchurch, on New Zealand’s South Island. It’s a very quaint town, birthplace of my grandmother, who then reinvented herself as a quintessential English lady, which I am sure has a lot to do with the mock Tudor architecture and colonial history. There is a lovely botanic garden to wander around in, the Arts Centre on Worcester Boulevard has a lively craft market, and the beaches just out of town stretch for miles with golden sands. The Wunderbar in Lyttleton is nestled over the supermarket on London St, and has a superb kitsch style with board games, open-minded hosts and spectacular views of the still working harbour.

Shop along High St, Colombo and Cashel for fabulous NZ designer clothes and incredibly stylish fashion, made with gorgeous fabrics, beautifully cut and designed to fit real women’s bodies. Drop into the Globe Café at 171 High St for coffee and cake.

Fancy a helicopter tour up Fox & Franz Josef glaciers?

Drive over Arthur’s Pass to the tiny mountain village Otira, which was overrun by artists for ‘Oblique’ in 1999, and has since become a thriving creative haven. Continue on to Greymouth, and turn right for some of the wildest, most rugged and spectacular coastline you will see in your life – The Piano was filmed on a beach up here (ask a local which one), or drive left to the experience the effects of global warming at the rapidly disappearing Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. The tiny coastal town of Hokitika boasts an intriguing second-hand shop and at the local pub you can find out all about the aviation disaster early last century, which explains the photos of an airplane landing in their field.

Heading back to the east, you now have a gentle drive up more beautiful coastline. There are a range of accommodation options to break the journey, from the caravan park right on the beach, to a glamorous hotel and café scene at Kaikoura where you will want to spend some time swimming with the dolphins. We wandered out to the edge of the rocks, and were amazed to see the seals frolicking and cavorting just a few metres away, although there are very strict health regulations about keeping a respectful distance from their habitat.

New Zealand: The view from Kaikoura

Once you’re ready to hit the road again, the highway drifts gently through rolling hills and blue horizons, until you come to the Marlborough Wine country. Cloudy Bay is my pick but I’m no expert, so you’re best off making your own extensive tasting tour. Find a B&B, and take advantage of the incredible range of excellent New Zealand whites produced here.

At this point you have two options, either to head straight to Picton for the sublime ferry ride through the Marlborough Sounds to Wellington, or drive West again to Nelson, and ‘over the hill’ to Golden Bay. Since this is my itinerary, I’m taking you on all the detours and tangents, as that’s the joy of travel. Not having to keep going in one direction; you may end up headed somewhere you’ve never even heard of. And if you’re really keen, download the wine trail map before you go!

Suggested Itineraries in New Zealand: Onward to Wellington

The drive across to Nelson is only a few hours, and takes you through lovely countryside until you reach this charming town nestled into the hills. There is a veritable plethora of artisan shops selling the work of local jewelers, potters, artists and designers. The café at the very top of the hill on the main road through town has great burgers, and there is a scenic drive back down to the highway, which curves along the coast here for miles. As you travel West again, headed for Golden Bay, you will drive close to the Abel Tasman National Forest, and over what is laughingly called ‘the hill’ by locals; an incredibly steep and twisty mountain road. I always got car sick on this drive as a child, but seem to have survived unscathed this trip.

Watch the valley unfold before you as the road slowly evens out, and you soon arrive in Takaka. Once home to many an ‘alternative lifestyler’ up in the hills, the farming community now appears to be outnumbered by weekend holiday houses and adventurers. This has brought a new buzz to the main street, along with the funky cafes and shops on Main Street. The local pool on the road out of town is where I learnt to swim, with my great-aunt and some of those triathlete cousins who consider a quick run up one of the nearby hills an excellent morning activity. Not before breakfast for me, and certainly not after!

There are plenty of other options for the less actively inclined, like driving to one of the many gorgeous bays for a swim, or a stroll along the boardwalks – but no swimming in the sacred Te Waikoropupu (Pupu) Springs, just outside Takaka. The waters are some of the purest on earth, and were once used for healing and ceremonial blessings for Maoris at birth, death, arrival and departure of travelers.

The nearby walk up a mountain alongside the abandoned power plant is a fabulous three hour hike, and takes you to a sparkling clear pool at the top. It was too cold for any but the most hardy to swim even at the height of summer, but is a satisfying day trip.

If dancing is your thing, head out to Farewell Spit or one of the local beaches for the summer party season, and shake your booty to the pulse of the pacific ocean. Here you will be one of the first people in the world to see in the new year.

The view from Chocolate Fish Cafe

Retrace your steps annd drive back to Picton where we board the ferry for the three-hour trip to Wellington. This takes you through the Marlborough Sounds, truly some of the most luscious, divine scenery on the planet.

In Wellington, visit Te Papa Musuem, and make sure you stop in to the Chocolate Fish Café out along the Karaka Rd on the white sand beach, where visiting rock stars mingle with families on the colourful wooden chairs overlooking the water of Scorching Bay. The shopping here is again superb, with the cream of local talent such as Starfish, Zambesi, Ricochet, Karen Walker and more scattered along Lambton Quay, Cuba St and Willis St.

An hour away Titahi Bay offers a stunning walk around the cliffs. Head a little further up north to Pukaha Mt Bruce, for a gorgeous walk through the forest of the magnificent wild life sanctuary, where you can see endangered birds and wildlife (Kiwi, Tuatara, Kokako, Kaka) before they are restored to their natural habitat in the forest. After all that activity, continue in a leisurely fashion up to Rotorua and sloth around in the hot mud, where I will leave you for now.

–Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in New Zealand, from Christchurch tours to things to do in Auckland to Bay of Island tours and activities.

I arrived in Barcelona a fan of Gaudi and left with the relationship in tatters.

I’m not sure what the turning point was. His erratic and changeable design? His perfectionism and the time it took him to do anything? The fact there were so many other people swooning around him? His unavailability?

Barcelona’s Parc Guell

My first attempt to meet up with him face to face was at the Palau Guell. Just off Las Rambla, the main boulevard for wandering, buying souvenirs and getting a feel for grand Barcelona. Dodging the vendors and street performers, I found the right side street, headed down, excited about this first encounter. And found someone quite different waiting for me. It seemed Gaudi had been replaced by Christo – the whole building was wrapped up. All I could see was one chimney pot. Renovations, apparently. Still, first dates often don’t go smoothly. And I had plenty more time with Antoni Gaudi ahead of me.

Disappointed, I headed back onto Las Ramblas and continued soaking up Barcelona. The streets where Picasso and Miro lived and worked, the set where Woody Allen was currently filming, the grand cathedrals and urban beach.

Next day, I set out for Parc Guell. Yes Gaudi had a rich patron, Eusebi Guell. In 1895, Guell bought a large piece of land on a rocky hill overlooking the city and the Mediterranean and asked Gaudi for a total concept design: houses and gardens. Only a part of it was ever built – a few houses, the gatehouses forming the main entrance, the colonnaded market and the terrace above.

We had been given the local knowledge of the best way to approach Parc Guell: from the top of the hill. The site is steep and this was a good way of minimising climbing and, so we were lead to believe, other tourists. Feeling smug, we caught the metro, were slightly surprised by how many other people got off at the same stop and then, seeing all the signs to Parc Guell, deeply miffed to find out local knowledge was actually common knowledge.

Joining the throng we headed down hill, before turning into an intimidatingly steep street. But this quickly became my favourite street in the world; in the middle of the road was a pedestrian escalator. I’m not sure if it was Gaudi’s idea, I’d say 100% likely not, but I was a fan of whoever had the idea.

Entering the park this way is only spectacular for the view of the city. Dusty paths and craggy bushes form the park. There is a good lookout hill to climb onto, but in summer, when half the world is there – you have to be a mountain goat to find standing room.

Wandering down the hill, we found the terrace, a big open area like a school playground – thin gravel and dusty. But the view was great and around the edges was the signature Gaudi seating/balustrade, all organic shapes to fit to the body, and mosaic to please the eye. We sat here and looked at the view for a while but the space felt kind of empty, a bit soulless. I put my growing unease aside and headed for the stairs down to the market place below.

And found the stuff of nightmares. Brown columns filled the cavernous space. It was like a forest from HR Puff’n’stuff (Google it, if you don’t know…). It was hard to know how you would actually use such a space. Currently it was like being in a theme park. People pushing and yelling, camera flashes going off. Bad busking bouncing off the hard edges. I had to get out of there.

Gaudi’s gatehouses, and Philippa is forgiving

Emerging onto the steps leading down to the gatehouses, I felt myself forgiving Gaudi. The mosaics here are truly beautiful. And the gatehouses are exactly what you’d expect from him: eccentric grooves and rich colours, organic shapes, no straight edges – pretty and unique. They are now, inevitably, gift shops. I went inside and was surprised by how small the rooms were. And his need for curving walls made it all seem to close in on me. I bought myself a ring. But it was definitely a last-ditch effort at making this relationship last.

Perhaps Parc Guell is nicer in winter, with fewer people around, if Barcelona actually has a quiet tourist season. The locals told me it was good to go there at sunrise to catch the best light and avoid the crowds. But I have to say that apart from the mosaics, I was unmoved. The shapes Gaudi designed began to feel really contrived and overdone when I was seeing them face to face, en-masse and not in books.

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Gobble, Gobble.

If most Americans are like me, and I suspect many are, when it comes to Thanksgiving, they trudge home through horrible traffic and/or airport delays to eat a very large meal on Thursday, visit their family, maybe see a movie, and possibly battle some horrendous shopping crowds in an effort to get a jump on Christmas shopping.

I say no more. Fellow Americans, you don’t need another Thanksgiving of watching the James Bond marathon on Spike TV, or waiting in line at the Gap. Just say no.

Instead, by all means, visit the family, have that extra slice of pumpkin pie, but don’t squander away your precious vacation days in store lines (you can buy it online, you know you can) or in front of the television. Break free of the Thanksgiving monotony and go do something fun. Actually have a vacation on your vacation days. This is radical thinking I know, but stick with me here, I have ideas. And I am practicing what I preach, I convinced my whole family to try my suggestion for Thanksgiving this year.

Here’s what I propose: If you live within reasonable drive or train ride to a major city (say around 2 hours or less), have an urban adventure. But, DO NOT SHOP. Instead, visit a museum, indulge in a helicopter ride, treat the kids, or take a day cruise. On Viator.com alone there are over 1,250 things to do in the USA just around the major cities, so no excuses, I am sure you can find something fun to do near you.

If you don’t live close enough to have a big city adventure, visit a National Park near you (or State park, I am not picky). They are blissfully crowd free around winter holidays, and everyone could stand to stroll or hike off a little gravy. Plus, when is the last time you went to your nearby national park? I bet it has been awhile. Stop by and say hi. Take the kids.

Fellow Americans, I urge you, nay, implore you, to GO OUT AND HAVE FUN! If you are home watching the Hallmark Channel’s Festival of Original Movies, or circling for parking at the mall, instead of out having a good time, you are so not going have the best Thanksgiving pictures or stories in the office on Monday. Make a Thanksgiving you’ll be thankful for, the only turkey should be the one you eat.

Happy Thanksgiving!

– Kelly G

Editor’s Note: The following blog post is by Don George from his recent trip to Kenya & Tanzania. Don, a pioneering travel writer and editor for 25 years, is the host and creator of the adventure travel web site Don’s Place and the editor of the literary travel magazine RECCE.

MAASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE – Nighttime at Bateleur Tented Camp, just outside Maasai Mara National Reserve in western Kenya, near the Tanzanian border.

I’ve just returned to my tented, bush-surrounded camp cabin after a spectacular dinner on Bateleur’s open-air dining verandah: coconut carrot soup; a salad of pumpkin, beetroot, and rocket with walnuts; grilled Indian Ocean prawns with stir-fried onions, potato, spinach and corn; and a mousse-like chocolate pate with passionfruit sauce.

Don, among the Maasai

Eating such sophisticated, elegantly prepared cuisine on a full setting of china, silverware and crystal, choreographed with gracious, efficient service, it’s hard to believe that a couple of hours earlier we were scrambling, scraping, banging and bouncing over the Mara Plains – but that’s one of the fundamental joys of this journey, which combines long and rigorous drives into the bush with exquisite comforts back at the camp.Right now I’m sitting on a luxurious king-size bed surrounded by old leather traveling cases, leather-bound books on a mahogany desk, and wooden spears. Behind me is a porcelain sink with gleaming brass taps, a separate stone-floored shower area with organic shampoos and lotions and a certifiably high-powered shower, and a wood-paneled bathroom with a modern toilet. In front of me is a roof-to-floor mosquito net that I’ve zipped shut, and beyond that the deeply dark night alive with a symphony of surrounding sounds.

When I left the dining verandah to make the three-minute walk back to my cabin, a guard carrying a rifle raced to walk with me. “We must be careful, sir,” he said, arcing a powerful flashlight down the path and off into the bush. “You never know what is waiting for you. A few days ago I found a big Cape buffalo right there,” and he turned his light on the waist-high grasses not ten feet away. My heart skipped a beat. No buffalo tonight.

*****

The day began with breakfast at the Mount Kenya Safari Club, then a short drive to Nanyuki Airport, where we boarded another propeller plane for the flight to the Maasai Mara airstrip. From there we drove over a deeply rutted road – past a broken-down gas truck that looked like it was becoming part of the landscape — to the tented camp, where we settled in, had lunch, and then met Andrew, a local Maasai teacher who would bring us to his nearby village.

Breakfast on the lawn, complete with white-toqued chefs

As we drove to the village, Andrew told us about the Maasai diet. “Traditionally, the Maasai eat meat, milk, and blood from cattle,” he said. “We take the blood from the jugular vein. Now we sometimes also eat meat and milk from goat and sheep.” He also told us about how the Maasai use nature’s “living apothecary”: Leaves, roots and bark are all used as medicine, from twigs that are used in dental care to herbs that are used for stomach ailments to what he called the “Kenya green heart,” which is used to cure malaria.

When we reached Andrew’s village, he invited us to enter through a break in the encircling fence of thorny acacia. “Four families live in his village,” he said, ”and there is one entrance for each family. As you can see, the village consists of about a dozen huts, each made of mud laid over interlacing branches. Responsibilities in the village are clearly defined: Men do the cattle grazing, settle disputes between villages, provide security during the night, and mend the fence around the village. The women work a lot: They build houses, do cooking, fetch water, milk cows, fetch herbs and take care of the village during the day. There are more houses than families because the Maasai practice polygamy, so one man usually has multiple wives – depending on the number of cows he has; the more cows, the more wives he can marry. Each wife builds her own house.”

Suddenly a line of women, resplendent in brilliant red, white, yellow and purple robes, long dangling beaded necklaces and large looping beaded neckbands, assembled in the middle of the village and began to chant. “They’re welcoming you,” Andrew said, as they smiled and sang, their voices rising into high-pitched cries.

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The cathedral in Salta

The biggest city in northern Argentina, Salta was my first real taste of the country when I arrived from neighbouring Bolivia last year. With decent nightlife, some beautifully preserved colonial architecture and a young population, this is a good place to spend a couple of lively days when you’re in Argentina. Here are my picks for things to do when you’re in Salta.

Things to Do in Salta: The Main Sights

Most of Salta’s sights are within a few blocks of the main plaza, 9 de Julio. On the plaza itself lies the Museo Histórico del Norte, a museum displaying both religious and modern art, historical furniture and coins, and an old postal wagon and hearse! The museum itself is housed in an impressive 18th-century edifice, and the balcony provides a nice backdrop overlooking the square.

Salta’s Museo de Bellas Artes (fine-arts museum) resides in a two-storey colonial mansion on Calle Florida, two blocks west of Plaza 9 de Julio. Modern painting and sculpture are both featured, and a sculpted garden dominates the cute interior patio.

If ecclesiastical buildings interest you, pay a visit to the 19th-century cathedral (Iglesia Catedral) on the north side of 9 de Julio. The ashes of General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a salteño and hero of the independence movement, are stored here, together with those of other important historical figures.

Tour the highlands of Argentina…

For the best views of the city and its surroundings, take a decent trail up the hill Cerro San Bernardo, located at the south side of Parque San Martín, to the southwest of the main plaza. You could take the teleférico from the park to the top and back (roundtrip US$3), although personally I found the walk itself to be quite refreshing. On the lower slopes of Cerro San Bernardo lies the anthropological museum of Juan Leguizamón, which features a decent display of local ceramics, especially those from the pre-Inca town of Tastil. The bizarre exhibition of the cave of the Shamans will also be of interest.

…on a day trip from Salta

A more creative way of experiencing Salta might be to undertake one of the many tours on offer around the town. You can book a tour the northern highlands around Salta over on the Viator site.

There are also local travel agencies on Calle Buenos Aires (just south of 9 de Julio) that offer Salta city tours. For sunny days, consider a guided bicycle tour, as they normally take in all the major sights and include bike rental. A full-day tour to Parque Nacional El Rey should also be considered, as if offers a fantastic opportunity for bird-watching, with knowledgeable guides offering great insights into the abundant wildlife in this forest.

Salta: Food & Entertainment

The Mercado Central, on the corner of Calle Florida and San Martín, is a lively market that is well worth a visit, especially as it is also one of the cheapest places to eat in town. Pizza, empanadas (stuffed pasties) and humitas (stuffed corn dough) are sold here, along with the usual fresh fruit and vegetables. The best place for souvenirs is Mercado Artesanal, which features native handicrafts such as hammocks, ceramics, leather items and the distinctive ponchos from the surrounding region. Take bus No 2, 3 or 7 to get here.

To while away the evenings, sample the delights of the numerous cafés that adorn the plaza. Van Gogh and New Time Café are particularly recommended, featuring live music late at night during weekends. Further out of town, about 20 blocks west of Plaza 9 de Julio, lies La Casona del Molino, which features improvised entertainment in a former mansion, and provides a real local experience in which it can be almost impossible to distinguish the audience from the performers! Expect to pay around US$10-17 admission. My personal favourite is La Vieja Estación, on Calle Balcarce, which features great live folk music each night in a warm, cozy atmosphere. A dinner and show will cost around US$8.

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Argentina, including a tour from Salta to Argentina’s northern highlands. Or maybe you’d rather take a hot-air balloon tour over Buenos Aires; we’ve got you covered there, too.