Editor’s Note: Our intrepid bridge-loving artist, Jodi, is reporting back on her recent trip to Bratislava and Slovakia. You can read about Jodi’s previous jaunts in Slovakia here and here.
Bratislava is a perfect blend of Eastern European history and contemporary style. Not many travelers have an opinion (favorable or otherwise) about Bratislava, and yet it’s a treasure trove of art and culture. The Slovakia of recent horror films is a far cry from reality, nothing like my experience of this compact cosmopolitan gem of a city.
Things to Do in Bratislava: Art & Culture
Start with a quick update on the area’s cultural history with the collection at the Slovenská Národná Galériá – Slovak National Art Gallery, which includes a fantastic series of pastoral scenes, moody paintings of contemporary artists intellectuals, along with wedding celebrations, socialist sculptures, and political works. The exhibition of documentary photography in Slovakia between 1969-1989 is also fascinating.
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| Michael’s Gate, Bratislava |
Stroll along the Danube to the Hotel Carlton around the corner on Hviezdoslavovo Square. Across the promenade, the atmospheric Café Verne (Hviezdoslavovo Namestie 18) is tucked away in the basement of Bratislava Academy of Fine Arts. The decorations are based on themes from the French writer Jules Verne, perfect for losing yourself in the cozy corner benches surrounded by antique radios, typewriters and young intellectuals.
The winter ball season starts in January, so take your best ball-gown and opera gloves, in case you’re invited to one of the major events in the state theatre at the end of the square. Its history as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire is echoed in the stateliness of these occasions, which are taken very seriously in the social calendar. It’s worth the effort to learn a few steps of the waltz before you go, although if anyone tries to make you do the duck dance, I would suggest slipping away to the bar for a quiet drink.
Wind your way up the hill towards Michael’s Gate, the only preserved gate of the medieval city fortifications – where legend has it that you should remain absolutely silent, or all kinds of horrors will befall you. The Gothic foundations were laid in the 14th Century, and it was rebuilt in the 1750s. There is a Museum of Weapons and City Fortifications inside the tower, with a great view of the old town.]
The Milan Dobes Museum (Zámocnícka 13) in a 14th century residential building in the historic centre of Bratislava, with Gothic foundations, a Renaissance renovation done sometime in the 16th century, and Baroque façade from the 1770s. It’s a truly mind-bending experience of op-art, constructivist and Dobes’ 1960s light sculptures, collages and graphics. Gorgeous. The museum houses a permanent exhibition of his work, and some other artists from around the world who were friends and colleagues, including Wassily Kandinsky. I was lucky enough to literally stumble across this amazing place one morning.
Bibiana, the International House of Art for children, is along the opposite end of the same street. The organization focuses on art creation for and by children, with a variety of playful interactive exhibits including a trip through Slovakia’s castles and legends, an exhibit exploring ‘Where arts have come from’ and an exhibition of illustrations for children’s books. Highly recommended.
Things to Do in Bratislava: Eat, Drink, Be Musical
Walk through the up-market shops including designer clothes and specialist records to the main square for the Winter Market. It’s beautiful at night, with the spires of the old town sparkling in the snow, and you can taste local delicacies such as bread with dripping, hot spiced wine, hand painted baked Christmas decorations, and honey cake – five layers of creamy honey bliss.
On the street leading up to the gate, Cokoláda (Michalska 6) is the most decadent chocolate shop I have ever found. Settle yourself into a corner and try one of their 30 insane varieties of hot chocolate mixed with chili, orange, coconut, rum and cream. There is also a dessert consisting of a glass of whipped cream topped with strawberries which my friend Elisabeth was rather fond of, although I could never quite bring myself to order it.
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| Violet Sarcasm, at the UFO Bar in Bratislava |
The Slovak Experimental Radio studio has been conducting acoustic research since the 1960s and is home to one of the earliest synthesizers (like the model used by Pink Floyd in The Wall) and was visited by John Cage during one of his European trips. The tram passes by this kooky inverted pyramid on the way from the Main Railway Station (Hlavna Stanica) and is home to Slovak Radio, whose in-house symphony orchestra performs regularly in the magnificent concert hall, deep in the base of the building. Check the program for details, and if you can’t make it in person; listen to their webradio, podcasts, live streaming or some of the archives, an amazing collection of music and radio art.
If alternative performance is more your thing, there is the well-established venue A4 - Zero Space, at Nám. SNP 12. Close to the centre of town, it’s a ‘multifunctional non-commercial centre for contemporary culture’, hosting a range of theatre, dance, media art, concerts and contemporary classical music, improvised, experimental and electronic music, jazz and alternative rock music
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| Bratislava’s Novy Most bridge |
The UFO nightclub is located on top of the Novy Most (The Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising), built in 1967-72 possibly my favourite bridge in the world. I first visited five years ago, when the original beige and orange vinyl décor was complemented by a lift attendant who looked like he had been working there for the past 70 years.
Recently opened after refurbishment, it is now a very slick restaurant and bar with the slogan “UFO: Watch. Taste. Groove.” Highly minimalist design, with clear perspex tables, an imaginative cocktail menu with names like ‘liquid symphony’, ‘eastern love’, and my pick, ‘violet sarcasm’ (which comes with tiny purple flowers floating in the glass) and featuring one of the most magnificent views along the Danube. If you go during the day there is a viewing platform at the very top, however at night is when things really start shaking.
Things to Do in Bratislava: Get a Good Night’s Sleep
The Hotel Devin comes with many chandeliers, and a beautiful swimming pool in the basement. If your budget stretches to luxury, this has the most magnificent view of the Novy Most Bridge from some rooms, and you can watch the barges going down the Danube.
However, the Hostel Patio (Spitalska 35) where I usually stay is clean, central and perfectly comfortable for only $25 a night (instead of $250). I always sleep well there, and have only ever found myself sharing with friendly fellow travelers. The staff really are friendly and helpful, which is not always the case. It’s near the centre of town, just across the road and a few blocks from the infamous Hotel Kyjev (which I would definitely stay away from).
–Jodi Rose
Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Bratislava, Slovakia. Our favorites? The classic Bratislava walking tour (unless it’s freezing cold out) and the private Bratislava city tour including Devin Castle.
