Kyoto and Tokyo, a Tale of Two Cities
Tuesday, January 15th, 2008
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| Torii at the Inari Shrine |
Kyoto and Tokyo are composed of the same letters, but that’s pretty much where the similarities end for these two cities. I like to think of them as twins separated at birth that have totally grown up into different people, kind of like the twins in the movie The Parent Trap. I recently returned to San Francisco from ten days in Kyoto and Tokyo, and was very pleased that I’d split my time between two such different parts of Japan. If you travel all the way to Japan and only see one, I think you’re missing out on half the country, make time for two! Only a couple of hours on the Shinkansen (bullet train) separate them, so why not?
Kyoto Tours & Things to Do
Sadly Tokyo was leveled by bombing in World War II, so the city is pretty new architecture wise, but you can experience the traditional architecture of Japan in and around Kyoto, where much of it remains intact. Stroll through the Gion district, bastion of shopping, nightlife and restaurants, as well as some wonderful examples of traditional wooden residences. The greater Kyoto area is rife with beautiful temples and
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| Daigo-ji’s 5 Story Pagoda |
shrines. If you’re familiar with church fatigue in Europe, you could fall prey to its cousin, temple fatigue, in Kyoto. To see just the major temples and shrines would take you a couple of days, I recommend reading their descriptions and picking out the ones that will interest you the most based on your interest in art, gardens or historical architecture - some are better than others for each of these areas. Daigo-ji is great for historical building buffs (a rare original five story pagoda is on site) and has a beautiful garden, but there’s not much in the way of sculpture or art, and the sights are mostly outside, a factor in chilly or wet weather. Todaiji in Nara has an awesome Buddha sculpture and lovely buildings, but isn’t overly landscaped, the manicured gardens are nothing special.
If you can only see one temple/shrine and don’t have a particular interest, I recommend the Fushimi Inari Taisha (Inari stop on the JR line), the 4 kilometers of torii (big gates) snaking up through the misty, forested hills behind the shrine make for a gorgeous walk, with plenty of rest stops to examine the groups of memorials peppered along the way. And, even at the top, there are vending machines to dispense you a drink. The shrine is devoted to good harvests (now more focused on sake and soy sauce), and the official mascot is the fox, who peskily appears in much of the design of the shrine. I bought a magnet with foxes to stick on my car, it claims to protect me from accidents (so far, so good).
Kyoto’s got plenty of great restaurants, but after a long day of temple sightseeing, I recommend a beer and a nice, hot bowl of ramen from Santoka (near Sanjo station). Remember to slurp your noodles!
Kyoto is also great for day trips to the historical towns of Nara or Himeji, both of which I visited, but each of those is worthy of its own blog post, so stay tuned.
Tokyo Tours & Things to Do
Though Kyoto is a major city in its own right, it looks downright provincial when compared to the urban giant Tokyo. If Kyoto is all about history, Tokyo is all about the future. And so, embrace the future while you’re in Tokyo. Take in the view of the Blade Runner inspiring landscape from the Tokyo Tower, a skyscraper bar (the Park Hyatt bar is popular, but I prefer the less expensive option of the Park Hotel bar near Ginza), or the Tokyo Cityview at Roppongi Hills. And while the day time views are nice, the night views are stunning. Get mesmerized by the blinking red lights on nearly every tall building.
Explore the future of electronics, fashion and the generally silly items Japan is famous for by spending some time shopping. I spent more than I’d like to admit at the Tokyu Hands chain, but everyone loves their funky notebooks, hi tech pens and bizarre gadgets, so I think it was all worth it. If you’re into cameras, computers, video games, or Star Wars a stroll through Akihabara, the neighborhood for all things geeky in a good way, is a must.
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| A portable shrine at the Edo Museum |
Two concessions to history are worth making in Tokyo: take in a kabuki show at Kabuki-Za in Ginza and visit the Edo Museum. The kabuki performances are amazing at Kabuki-Za, soak in the live music and marvel at the traditional, controlled movements of the art form. Kabuki is a serious tradition, even today the main kabuki players are all from the same family. For an education in Tokyo history, head to the Edo Museum. Tokyo was once named Edo (lesson #1), and the Edo Museum is the main way to relive the past of Tokyo, see artifacts and architecture from the founding of Edo to just post World War II (including the signed peace treaty that ended WWII). This is the first museum I’ve been to where you can actually play with some of the artifacts. Get a sense of what Tokyo life was like before the skyscrapers.
There’s plenty of advice out there about where to eat in Tokyo, and more options than I could ever hope to count, so I’ll just suggest (maybe demand) one thing. If you’re going to eat sushi, eat it at the Tsukiji fish market. There’s several restaurants within the market, and any that look good are going to be great. You’re never going to find sushi this fresh anywhere else, the fish is literally bought outside the restaurant’s door. Eat it!
While Kyoto and Tokyo are in many ways a study in contrasts, there’s some big similarities too, they both have great food, killer subway/train systems, cool shopping and fantastic taxi drivers. Visit both and you’ll see that Japan is a nation of contrasts, a country of beautiful wooden shrines and endless skyscrapers as far as the eye can see.
Thinking about a visit to Japan? Check out 40+ things to do in Japan on Viator.
See more of Kelly’s photos of Inari, Kyoto and Tokyo and Jo’s Japan trip on Flickr.






























