Archive for April, 2008

After finding my way into Paris on the Orly airport bus, for the fine price of only 6 euro, and changing at Denfert-Rochereau to make the local connection to the metro, I am already feeling like a local. Tune into Radio Aligre (FM 93.1) and its highly regarded, uncompromisingly avant-garde music show called “Songs of Praise” (Tuesday nights from 19:30) and the artist in me is ready to hit the streets of Paris.

Reason to Love Paris #1: Canal Saint Martin

Overlooking the Canal St Martin, Paris

My trip to Paris starts with a stroll along the Canal Saint Martin, which, according to my inflight magazine, is the place to be seen. I was there for the bridges, of course, but you will enjoy it just as much for the cafes, shops, bars, and culture venues along the waterway. The Centre d’animation Jemmapes (116, quai de Jemmapes), the local cultural centre, is housed in a red brick building along the canal, nearby the famous Hotel du Nord (refreshments for the hipsters). Across the canal is a range of cute knickknack and fashion shops catering to the Parisian bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) set. Le Jemmapes, a small bar next to one of the modern green bridges, has a relaxed atmosphere and cheap vodka. Enjoy the bright red crockery with your coffee, or else chill out on the benches and watch the world float by.

Reason to Love Paris #2: Point Éphémerè

I went to Point Éphémerè on a Sunday afternoon for the Pure Presence hearing project by locus sonus, which streams sound from a different place around the world every six minutes. It’s located in a decaying waterside warehouse that has been turned into a thriving hub of artistic community enterprises. The bar looks out over the Canal St Martin, and there is a gallery where I saw fantastically designed musical instruments at the Octopus Festival: one a nostalgic wall of postcards that each played a different story when you opened them; another was a piano of pipes that you could switch off and on at will; the third a spatial audio design of the sonic city, experienced through headphones as you walked across the sensors that triggered various sounds to create this aural landscape. Cool.

Reason to Love Paris #3: Maison des Métallos & Villette Sonique

If you haven’t quenched your thirst for aural adventure, find your way to this renowned experimental music venue. At Maisons des Métallos anything could be happening, from the Bruits de Fond (sonic experiences and singular music), to an installation for 100 ventilators to an electro-sensorial composition. Part of the sprawling park of Le Villette, Villette Sonique (in the grand hall) is host to a selection of rock, pop and electro international acts. It promises the independent scene, deranged specimens, fantasties and virtuousos in general.

Reason to Love Paris #4: Palais de Tokyo

The Palais de Tokyo is one of my favourite art haunts, with a fantastically opulent facade of statues, used by the local kids as a skate park. Its cafe also has one of the best views of Paris. The building interior is decrepit-chic, with the “demolition site” feeling kept deliberately to highlight the temporary nature of the venue. This time the art confused me, but I am always willing to experience something new, and I was excited to discover hand-printed, black-and-white photocopies calling for information about the romantic conceptual French artist Sophie Calle, who is known for having hired a private detective to follow her in the past. I’m working on my dossier, and you never know, it may become part of her next work. Art meets life meets art and spins round again.

Reason to Love Paris #5: Némo Festival

I attended the opening of Némo Multimedia Festival at the Biarritz cinema near the Champs d’Elysee, with cutting edge animation, live performance and video clips. It’s a fabulously glamorous event and location. The cinema is lush, comfortable and well worth checking out (in case you need a few hours in the dark after all the over-stimulation of one the world’s most famous cities).

Reason to Love Paris #6: La Bellevilloise

La Bellevilloise is a famous industrial complex, now home to a myriad of cultural activities including an African dance centre, a heavy-metal bar (the night I was there, anyway), and the gallery where I saw another of the Nemo Multimedia Art Festival exhibitions. (This one featured 3D glasses quite heavily, with someone climbing a bridge in 3D, and a beautiful changing projection onto a desk and chair.) A friend dragged me around the corner to one of the last squat bars in Paris for cheap drinks and a genuine punk atmosphere. Be warned, if you approach from Mentilmontant metro (line 2) there is a very steep hill, so unless you need the workout, try using Gambetta (line 3) and exit Martin Nadaud. The building has an intriguing history of workers culture, and even inspired its own symphony, the fanfare bellevilloise.

Reason to Love Paris #7: Peripherique, and Beyond

Heading out over the peripherique may seem a daunting prospect, but it’s well worth the trip to Mains d’Oeuvres, an ultra-happening arts venue that is strongly connected to the local community (take Metro line 4 all the way to the end – Porte de Cligancourt; or Metro 13 to Garibaldi). The area is actually a small village, and I had a lovely bus ride back into Paris, seeing the Pigalle area, going through Montrmartre and along Blvd Lafayette, before jumping out to make my metro connection.

Vision’R festival brought together VJs from all over the world to play here; I had the great fortune of catching the Complaints Choir, consisting of a litany of everyday maladies set to music and beautifully sung by the assembled voices. There is a restaurant, concert venue and (upstairs) a mysterious Star Trek conference room.

Reason to Love Paris #8: Sèvres

Sèvres’ National Museum of Ceramics and Parc Saint-Cloud. One is a magnificent building in a gorgeous setting, only a 30-minute ride out to the end of Metro line 9 at Pont de Sèvres. Walk across the bridge and you’re at the museum, with a fantastic collection of ornately decorated ceramics. The factory behind is still in use, however it has no commercial function, only producing ceremonial plates for royalty and special occasions. Tucked away out the back of the buildings is the old school of ceramics, where the current artists have their studios and create fantastic happenings and events.

The beautiful forest you can see going up the hill is Saint Cloud park, stroll through the winding paths to a spectacular view across Paris, and enjoy finding the hidden sculptures and ruins randomly dotted throughout the trees.

Reason to Love Paris #9: The Whale of Versailles

A little further out is Versailles, where I managed to see the palace only at a distance and from a moving vehicle, while paying a visit to the Contemporary Art Centre, part of the Architecture School. I was thrilled to discover the Whale of Versailles here, although I think the artist, Christian Gonzenbach, may have moved his creation elsewhere by now. Still, it’s a fascinating counterpoint to this most historical and highly visited of sites, giving an insight into contemporary creation and culture.

Reason to Love Paris #10: Porte de Montreuil Flea Market

Damien Hearst ties: Only 37 euros each, one or two?

Paris’ largest flea market is at Porte de Clignancourt (officially known as Puces de Saint Ouen). This is the one to head to for antiques and more valuable second-hand goods. It’s open weekends and Mondays and is popular with international visitors. Less frequented is the cellar trash piled up on stands at Porte de Montreuil, so of course I headed straight for this one. A mix of new imported junk that you can find in most cheap markets anywhere in the world, the real treasure was the piles of clothes and accessories priced at 1-2-3 euros each. Dig through a few of these and you are bound to find some hardly worn designer gear. It’s a fun way to spend the afternoon, and as recycled clothing is starting to make an impact on the sustainability landscape, since the resources required to produce new clothes are a phenomenal drain on our natural and human ecology.

Two of my favourite food markets are also in Paris, on Fridays the Blvd Richard Lenoir is packed with fresh produce stalls. The stallholders love to flirt, calling out oolala at the drop of a beret, I love that French joi de vivre. I randomly stumbled across the Wednesday market at Iena, on my way to the Palais des Tokyo, and was again tempted by the sumptuous array of treats — and I found a fantastic bargain on stylish bowling bags from the man at the top of the stalls.

Packing all my prizes into this, I was able to leave Paris with a rediscovered sense of joy, memories of some amazing art and music, and a great new wardrobe.

–Jodi Rose

If you’re planning a trip to Paris, be sure to browse Viator’s list of Paris tours and things to do.

Editor’s Note: Terry Carter and his wife and writing partner, Lara Dunston, have written half a dozen travel guides to Dubai and the UAE and have made it their home base since 1998. We asked Terry to write about top local / off-the-beaten-path travel tips for Dubai. You can also check out their recent post about “Top Things to Do in Dubai“.

Dubai Tip #1: Dip your toes into the Arabian Sea

Dubai Tip #8 — Expat Volleyball

We’d like to say that it’s invigorating, but we’d be so wrong. The truth is that most of the year the water is as warm as a baby’s bath, but remember, it’s the Arabian Sea! You can surf, kite surf or just take advantage of the photo op with the Burj Al Arab as a backdrop. While it’s calm most of the time, there are strong currents – and you don’t want to be drifting off towards Iran with the US warships and pesky pirates around. If you do float to Iran, remember to call it the Persian Gulf not the Arabian Gulf. Just so you know.

Dubai Tip #2: Catch a local bus

Most visitors to Dubai never catch the local buses, probably due to the fact that you can actually melt into a sizzling puddle on the sidewalk waiting for one. But it’s a great way to mix it with Dubai’s expat workers – not the ones on the executive packages. You’ll see the neighbourhoods where they live and get a feel for the different expat communities. It’s also a great way to find those authentic workers cafés. Just look for the crowds around a hole-in-the-wall and get off. There is a double-decker hop-on-hop-off bus that does the main routes, but that’s cheating.

Dubai Tip #3: Let’s do brunch

When a Dubai resident says ‘let’s do lunch’, it’s not an empty threat. If you’re in Dubai on a Friday or a Saturday, brunch with the expats is a must. Take excellent people-watching opportunities, add good value food, mix liberally with free drinks, and presto, you’re living the Dubai equivalent of ‘the good life’. Week time lunch specials are also brilliant value. Check the Time Out magazine or website for the current dining bargains.

Dubai Tip #4: Shop yourself silly at a mall

Contrary to what you might read elsewhere, Dubai’s cultural activities don’t exclusively consist of shopping, shopping and more shopping (see our previous blog on Dubai), but the mall certainly is a focal point of local activity. Dubai doesn’t have a ‘town square’ or the ritual of the afternoon stroll around its manicured paths – this activity takes place at Dubai’s malls. Why? It’s too ****** hot to do it elsewhere! Whether it’s to meet friends for coffee, to check out the latest designer fashions (local and international), catch a movie, or just escape the heat, you have to hit the mall at least once. Just don’t call it ‘mall culture’…

Dubai Tip #5: Check out the local supermarkets

Dubai Tip #5 — Eat local

Sure they’re not as exotic as the souqs, but local branches of supermarkets (such as Carrefour) reveal a lot about how people live in Dubai. You’ll see old local women, often sporting the traditional burka (face mask), doing a monthly shop with a trolley laden with huge bags of flour, rice, cooking oil, and dozens of tissue boxes!

There are fresh nuts, olives, pickled vegetables, and other goodies (caviar anyone?) in barrels at the deli counter, but you can also pick up fascinating souvenirs here as well – chocolate covered-dates, orange water, rose syrup – all with endearing packaging that hasn’t changed since that old local woman was pulling water from a well.

Dubai Tip #6: Succumb to the spa

Dubai is fast becoming a world-class spa destination. Just about every five-star hotel has at least one spa and the treatment lists are just as extensive as any in Thailand. Given Dubai’s reputation as a luxury travel destination and emphasis on relaxing, it’s no wonder that the spa scene has become so competitive. Cleopatra’s Spa started the ball rolling many years ago and in many ways is still the queen (sorry!) of Dubai’s spas. And one of the most reasonably priced.

Dubai Tip #7: Picnic at Creekside Park

As soon as the weather cools off a little, Dubai’s residents hit the beach or a park. Creekside Park is a favourite because it has great children’s facilities as well as abundant shade and afternoon Creek breezes. The smell of BBQ (everything from Thai chicken satay to Middle Eastern lamb kebabs) and sheesha (aromatic water pipe) fills the air as does the playful sounds of children speaking a dozen or so different languages. Before you head to the park, drop in to the nearby Wafi Mall to Wafi Gourmet for your picnic supplies – juicy olives from the barrel, white cheeses, dips of hummus and muttabal, kebbe, and fabulous fresh bread.

Dubai Tip #8: Be a good sport

Dubai’s winter sporting calendar attracts everyone from Tiger Woods to Roger Federer (a part-time Dubai resident), and while this provides a great opportunity to see your favourite sporting superstars up close there are plenty of other sports to watch – or join in. Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan expats play cricket at any time of the day, anytime of the year, and anywhere where there’s room to swing a bat. Emiratis flock to see their favourite football (soccer) teams play at the stadiums and the sport of rifle throwing (yes, that’s what we said) attracts supportive extended families. Even if you’re here at the height of summer that’s no excuse: Monday night is Freestyle Night at Ski Dubai, complete with DJ spinning tunes.

Dubai Tip #9: Drink in the views

A Dubai ritual for residents entertaining friends, the ‘drinks with a view’ generally means selecting one of three options. There are the awe-inspiring city views: busy Bar 44 at Grosvenor House with its awesome champagne menu, or Vu’s Bar at the Emirates Towers Hotel where window-side tables are coveted. There is the Burj Al Arab view from either hip 360˚ at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel or safari-style Bahri Bar at Mina A’Salam. And finally, there’s the simple Arabian Gulf Sea view from funky Sho Cho (where you can also hear the waves crashing on the sand below) or lofty Skyview Bar at the Burj Al Arab. Cheers!

Dubai Tip #10: The midnight snack

The post-shopping, post-work shift, or post-imbibing ritual is to head to the neon-lit Satwa neighbourhood for a late-night nibble or a full-blown meal. There are several choices around Al Dhiyafa Rd, but the two main attractions are the basic Pakistani curries and sweet lassi (yoghurt-based) drinks at Ravi’s, or shwarma (juicy, fragrant lamb or chicken rolled up in a pita bread) washed down with fresh juice at Al Mallah. Enjoy!

–Terry Carter

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of Dubai tours & things to do, from desert sandboarding safaris to Dubai city sightseeing tours.

Last week, Canberra, Australia’s small capital city, played host to the controversial Olympic Torch as it makes its way around the world. Organisers described it as the most successful outing yet for the flame – which isn’t really saying much after the chaotic debacles of Paris, London and San Francisco and the security-deadened, almost invisible parades in cities such as New Delhi, Dar es Salaam, Islamabad and Jakarta.

To the outside world, it all looked fine. A crisp, clear Canberra morning, smiling faces, clean streets and a run uninterrupted by scuffles, attacks on the flame, disappearances into bayside warehouses or the heavy-handed actions of benign-looking men in matching blue tracksuits.

But all was not as it appeared.

Spurred into action by bad press on the relay to-date, the Australian Chinese community – and especially the large number of visiting Chinese students hosted by Australian universities – rallied to the defence of the torch relay and their (in their opinion much-maligned) country. Maybe 10,000 students bussed in from across Australia, and formed a formidable presence on the usually quiet streets of Canberra (population 330,000). Vastly outnumbering and – if media reports are to be believed – intimidating their pro-Tibet counterparts, the Chinese supporters ensured that, for the most part, all the cameras saw was a sea of red flags and support.

Perhaps this display of strength on the streets is part of the education of visiting students. Perhaps they’ll remember the feeling of getting out on the streets and defending what they believe to be right. And perhaps they’ll take that democratic spirit home. Perhaps.

The blue-tracksuited ‘Flame Attendants’ had dominated discussion in Australia in the lead-up to last week’s relay leg. All week Australian and Chinese security agencies contradicted each other about the role of this special force. Desperate to avoid the sorts of hands-on activities in London and other cities, Australian politicians and security agencies were clear that the Chinese tracksuit guys would have no security role to play. At all. Chinese officials said they would use their bodies to protect the flame. The Aussies said ‘No you won’t’. And so it went all week.

Australians were perhaps drawn to the tracksuit story out of nostalgia. Former Prime Minister John Howard was famous for his daily walks around Canberra and Sydney – escorted by security guards – and dressed in a patriotically coloured tracksuit. Since his loss at the polls in November, the tracksuit has all-but disappeared from Aussie cultural life. Enter the Chinese to restore order and give us something to talk about.

In the end, the Aussies prevailed. Footage even shows an Australian Federal Police officer giving one of the Flame Attendants’ a none-too-subtle shove out of the way during the run. Bet that doesn’t run on the nightly news in Xi’an or Beijing last week!

Another thing that won’t hit the airways in China is the sad fact that the once pure symbolism of the Olympic torch has been sullied. It once stood for pure sporting competition, showing a peaceful ideal that might exist in a world free of war and politics. But there’s no doubt that the Chinese government – modernising and improving at an astonishing rate but still guilty of reprehensible acts within its own borders – is using the Olympics to create goodwill. The torch, the relay and the Olympics themselves were sadly tarnished long ago by bad governments permitted to bask in the reflected glow of the greatest sporting event in the world. The Chinese aren’t the first – or possibly even the worst – but the hypocrisy of admonishing protesters and hiding behind the ‘Olympic Ideal’ while so blatantly committing human rights violations is every bit as noteworthy as Berlin in 1936 and Moscow in 1980.

So where does that leave the Olympic Flame – past Nagano, Japan, and Seoul, now on a respite guaranteed by a shuffle through the North Korean capital. And where does it leave the noble Olympic Games themselves? Same place they’ve always been – at an uncomfortable intersection between politics and sport, but now with more people than ever aware of the complications and contradictions of putting an unattainable ideal smack in the middle of everyday human stupidity.

–John Ryan

The UK has Rememberance Day, the US has Memorial Day and down under we have ANZAC Day. Every child in Australia and New Zealand knows December 25 is Christmas Day, and April 25 is ANZAC Day. During our time at school we learn about the day when Australia truly grew up and became a real country. Through uncertain economic times, racial divides and severe drought, there is one day of the year when all else is put aside and the nation comes together to share a few moments of silence as we say thank you to those who have gone to war to protect our freedom.

For those unfamiliar with the ANZAC story (ANZAC - Australia and New Zealand Army Corp), it revolves around the dreadful events of April 25 in Gallipoli. Still a young nation and eager to impress, troops were sent to Turkey as part of the allied offensive in the First World War. Poor intelligence and woeful communication meant that instead of landing on a flat open beach on the Gallipoli Peninsula, the troops sailed straight into an ambush as the Turkish forces took position on the cliffs surrounding the landing site and opened fire.

Anyone who has seen the first 20 minutes of the film Saving Private Ryan does not need to try too hard to imagine the horrific scenes that followed. While both sides suffered heavy casualties, by the end of the eight month battle, more than 8,000 young ANZACs had been killed.

This single event has become one of the most important days of the year for this part of the world. It’s a time to celebrate freedom and mateship, a day to be thankful for the sacrifices we will hopefully never have to see made during our lifetime. ANZAC Day is more than just a day off work, and unlike our other major national holiday of Australia Day, you will never hear anyone complain when the day falls midweek instead of next to a weekend. It’s not just another day and it never will be.

Many Australians commemorate the day at a Dawn Service. Rising in the early hours of the morning before the sun has risen, thousands of people converge on a site for a memorial service. Wreaths are laid, a two minute silence observed and concludes when a lone bugler plays the “Last Post”. The first time I attended dawn service on ANZAC Day I cried like a baby. I cried for men I never knew, I cried for their families and I cried for the loss of innocence of a nation as thousands of young lives were violently cut short. Not a year goes by without shedding a tear or two as I look back and reflect on that terrible time. Thousands make the pilgrimage to the site of the battle in Gallipoli itself, and it has become a regular part of the backpacking ritual through Europe.

Throughout Australia’s capital cities, war veterans and their families march proudly through the streets, heads held high, looking resplendent in their army uniforms pinned with medals. Sadly the last of the survivors from Gallipoli passed away in 2002, however since his death the tradition and depth of feeling seems to have increased each year. Its not all doom and gloom though! After the sombreness of the mornings events, the afternoon usually consists of beers shared around a BBQ and watching the traditional Essendon vs Collingwood AFL match. Let’s face it, the day is as much about being mates as it is about war. The bonds formed by the troops as they faced the most terrifying moments of their lives will never be broken.

ANZAC Day is not just about that fateful day in Gallipoli, it’s an opportunity to pay our respects to those who fight to protect not only our country, but others in need, be it in the World Wars, East Timor or Iraq.

Whatever your opinions are on war, there is a time to acknowledge that behind the fighting are people, real people.

Men and women who have real family and real friends. Men and women who have given up a “normal” life. Men and women who may pay the ultimate price for their sacrifices. If we get nothing else out of ANZAC Day we should remember to not forget the people behind the ugly face of war. While politicians argue and evil reigns, young lives are lost and families torn apart.

Lest we forget.

–Kerrie O’Mahony

The cities I fall spontaneously in love with have one thing in common. They all have a sense of possibility, which you can feel seeping up through the streets and out into the air from the back alleys. While they may open to your curiosity at first embrace, they also keep some things secret. Their essence is understood through experiences and connections that unfold over time. You need time to feel intimate with a city, like it gets you and you get it.

There is also a tendency for each of them to give me a surprise kick in the teeth, which shocks me out of my complacency and hurtles me into a new escapade. These misadventures can be traumatic at the time, but they are part of what keep us moving, the way that an accident turns into an anecdote, and the unexpected twists and turns along the road make it all the more intriguing.

How I love thee, Glasgow

Words to live by, from Glasgow

Glasgow seemed like it was already familiar, something like a future deja-vu. I had my passport stolen in Glasgow, along with the rest of my wallet and everything in it, but somehow even that wasn’t enough to make me dislike the place. It sent me off on an unexpected trip to Edinburgh, which is a far prettier town, with its quaint cobbled streets and deeply cultured air, but somehow I never got over that first encounter with Glasgow.

Edinburgh is incredibly beautiful, perched up there on the hill with picturesque old town shops and the glowering castle, but somehow it leaves me cold. I find the warmth and grit of urban, working- class Glasgow infinitely more attractive. It has a vibrant contemporary art and music scene, the cultural landscape offers endless possibilities for connection, making friendships and creative networks.

I ♥ New York

I remember being intoxicated by the city the first time I flew into New York. It started at least 20 minutes before landing, and I hit the streets of Manhattan at fever pitch. It was 1989 and the city was frizzling, I wish I had never left, I wish I had a time machine to go back to that moment and make myself stay.

One night on that first trip to New York, I sit on the fire escape of the Carlton Arms hotel, watching the drama of the street play out between a couple who alternately scream at each other and a hapless taxi driver. There is romance and tension in the air in equal measure. A penniless actor – Drew, from Melbourne, where are you now? – had invited me there that night to see the room that his painter friend, Mark, was decorating with a mural in lieu of rent.

Lady Liberty, role model

They asked me to live with them, ‘he needs someone like you’, said Mark. And Drew told me, ‘you’re on a spiritual journey, that’s the most important thing,’ and then gave me Visions of Cody by Jack Kerouac and kissed me sweetly on the lips.

But I had other plans: a ride on the Concorde, a trip to Turkey and Greece, cruising from Rhodes to Marmaris with my uncle (who was the boat’s mechanic). Still, I longed for New York all that time, and tried to find the itinerant friends I had made there, but this was long before they days of email or social networking sites, and they had moved on, untraceable.

I was young then, and didn’t realize that when you feel the urge to linger somewhere, and have the time and resources to do so, it’s best to give in and stay. The time it takes you to get back there, and the speed at which everything in the world changes, mean that you can never recapture the life that might have unfolded, if you had taken that chance. The past, as they say, is another country.

We’ll always have Helsinki

Hyvaa matkaa is ‘good journey’

Helsinki just felt special, and after a whirlwind trip through the archipelago to Stockholm, taking part in a festival at Kiasma and Suomenlinna island, and spending a week at the railway station in the name of art, we developed a bond that I still cherish. In fact Helsinki gave me joy immediately: Taking the 3 euro aerobus in from the airport to be met by new friends, who showed me the bridge I was looking for, and took me out to the sauna and seahorse restaurant. When I returned for a festival a few years later, it was a fortnight of chaos and mayhem, all good fun until I sprained my ankle going down the steep stairs to get on stage at Club Gloria, and spent the rest of the evening with my foot on ice, dancing in my chair.

Still, this sudden impact with the ground, in contrast to all the hyperactivity, seems to draw me back there, time and time again.

Berlin, Ich Liebe Dich

Berlin has the potential for magic every time you step out of your apartment, there the sense that another adventure awaits, if you give yourself up to her embrace.

Shopping for New Life in Berlin

The first time I am in Berlin, a friend takes me to see the May Day riots, which seems like a good idea at the time. In the event I am terrified by the punks, anarchists and skinheads throwing rocks at each other and the police, and we leave fairly quickly. (These days the first of May is more of a cultural festival and celebration, with street parties and community gatherings, making it a far friendlier occasion.)

Cycling down the hill from Kastanienallee, on that first day, the brakes on my borrowed bicycle fail, I throw myself to the ground in order to avoid hurtling into the oncoming traffic at Rosenthaler Platz. I feel like there is some strange cosmic force at work that symbolically grounds my restless wandering spirit, and keeps me coming back to Berlin over the years, until I eventually end up settling here. The accidents that change your life may happen spontaneously, or take longer to become evident, but you will feel their effects, sooner or later.

The emotional essence of a city can soak into your soul, something that charms you, unexpected, fascinating, makes all the difference. I want to love Barcelona, and by all expectations I should, it’s a city that suits me perfectly in theory, but in practice I find the place doesn’t take, and remain stubbornly attached to Berlin. It is there that I feel at home, even though it drives me crazy some days, and everything changes so quickly you can barely keep up. The city has a place for me, it feels like we will be together for a long time.

These are things you just can’t know until you have been there, and experienced the way the city wraps around you with the daily rhythms of life, to follow your own impulses and curiosity down unfamiliar paths and strange streets. Just keep your passport close, and try to stay clear of the cobblestones.

–Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s New York City Tours, things to do in Glasgow, Berlin tours, and things to do in Helsinki.

Ladies, if you ever need your mood lifted, go to Rome.

It’s very difficult for a woman to walk down the street there without being greeted with ‘Ciao, bella’ or ‘Buongiorno, beautiful lady.’ Very good for the ego. And definitely not pick-up lines but just part of the joy of life embraced by Italians. My theory is that all that pasta, wine and sugary cake makes them feel so happy they want to share the joy. Well, bring it on I say.

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Rome: Getting situated

I recently went to Rome for the third time and the geography of the city fell into place for me. If you have the luxury of returning to places, it seems to me that the third visit is key. The first visit, I’m a bit overwhelmed by new sights and sounds and smells. On the second I fill in the blanks, things I’ve heard about since my first visit, places I missed, venturing a bit further afield. But on this third visit to Rome, I suddenly realised where the Colosseum is in relation to the Pantheon, how to walk from the Trevi Fountain to the river without slavishly consulting a map, and braved buses and trams.

We flew cheaply from London and landed at the secondary, smaller airport, Ciampino. I’d always come in via Fiumicino, which has a train straight to the central station, Termini. But Ciampino was just as easy – and cheap – to get in from. A shuttle bus to the Metro A line which goes straight through central Rome (you can also book a private Ciampino airport transfer over on the main Viator site). There are only two Metro lines so it’s pretty easy to negotiate. I just wish I spoke Italian because the carry-ons of a group of teenagers in our carriage made the sternest looking woman burst out laughing – oh for a Babelfish in my ear.

Our hotel was near the Spanish Steps, Hotel San Carlo. Not crazy expensive, basic breakfast included, and so well located (which is important when time is limited). The most alarming, but very Italian thing, was my room number: 74. The hotel has no lift and after climbing as far as the third floor and seeing rooms 30-40, I began to doubt surviving the climb to the 7th floor! Luckily, Italians are a little free and wild with numbering so the 4th floor was rooms 70-80.

Day 1 in Rome: Walking & eating

Day 1 we walked. Up the Spanish Steps, left past the Villa Medici, through the Borghese Gardens, stumbling across great buildings, aesthetic trees, courting couples. Then we headed down into Piazza del Popolo, along Via del Corso, a major shopping street and thoroughfare, crowded with shoppers and wanderers. We were slightly distracted by various shops, but while damaging your credit card, you can still appreciate amazing architecture.

Saturday Shopping in Rome

And those police uniforms! Especially the carabinieri. Do they get these guys from Central Casting? Be still my beating heart. I had a job interview the day after I returned to London and when they asked me my weakness I had to stop myself replying “Italian Policemen”. But it is futile trying to get their attention – either they only stir themselves for really major crimes or they actually are window dressing while the real cops are hidden behind the scenes.

Dinner that night was at a great place in the grid of shopping and eating streets near our hotel: L’Enotec Antica on Via della Croce. We chose it because it looked atmospheric and the least touristy. We were right. There were lots of locals, the pasta was fresh, the service fast and efficient, the atmosphere great. After dinner, we wanted a nightcap but couldn’t get a seat at the bar so we went elsewhere: big mistake. In one of the many places with tables on the street, we were surrounded by young drinking English tourists and had a terrible tiramisu, which we didn’t finish according to the ‘empty calories’ theory (calories you don’t enjoy eating are pointless).

Day 2 in Rome: Ah, those Italian men

Day 2 we went for a coffee at Bar Gambero, a little place on Via della Vite and Via della Gambero that I had found a few years earlier. The same lovely waiters were still there, and they gave us free pastries – I flatter myself they remembered me but I suspect it is a first-visit tactic to make you a regular for your stay in Rome. Who cares! They were sugary goodness and the coffee was great.

Then we wandered. The Trevi Fountain is amazing if just for the sheer volume of people crowded around it. You have to wonder if the surrounding buildings are still apartments: imagine waking up to that everyday! Or even more fabulous, going to sleep looking at the fountain at night. It’s best all lit up, so we returned that night on our way home. We both threw in a coin and made a wish, avoiding the many, many guys offering to take our souvenir photo or push red roses into our hands followed by a demand for money. I can’t even imagine how crowded the small square must be in summer, at the height of the tourist season. Hang on tight to your handbag!

We visited the Pantheon. I love this building. Built around AD 120 – amazing. But one of the most interesting things is the way people behave there. It’s a sacred building, a basilica, and there are signs asking for respect and silence but people are wandering around talking loudly, sitting on the floor, yelling to friends. Maybe because it does not have the traditional church structure of aisle and altar and seating, it does not send us that ingrained message to be silent and reverent.

C U L8R AT 4UM

Next we wandered towards the river, via Piazza Navona, a huge square full of restaurants. But we shied away from eating there fearing inflated prices and decreased quality food. Instead we wandered through winding back streets, full of cute shops and found a little bistro, still full of us English speakers but with a nicer, less frantic atmosphere.

Then we headed for the Forum and the Colosseum. From the wrong side. Ah, the joy of travel without a map and a plan. We walked and walked, skirting the outside of the Forum, getting a great view of the ruins below us, but not actually finding the way in! By the time we did (it’s near the Colosseum by the way) we were tired, it was 9 euros each and we felt like we’d seen it by then. So we continued on to circumnavigate the Colosseum. Again, we didn’t go in, not feeling the need to part with the cash when you can sort of see in, and get the sense of the haunted place from the outside. Then we saw my favourite sight for the weekend: a Centurion texting on his mobile phone.

Exhausted we caught the Metro back to our hotel before braving a bus and a tram to get to the Trastavere district for dinner. I had a conversation with the bus guy, him speaking Italian, me English, but we understood enough to find the right bus. Trastavere is full of bars and bistros but long queues on a Saturday night. We were lucky to get a table in a place called Da Othello, highly recommended, lovely staff, great busy atmosphere and terrific antipasto then seafood with the whole fish filleted at the table. And the meal including wine was really cheap.

Then back to our local enoteca for a nightcap and for my travelling companion to break the heart of a barman who became completely smitten. We ended up returning there the following night for our final meal and he blushed and charmed his way into our memories forever. Ah, those Italian men.

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So, roll down the invisible hill again, straight outta Darwin, to Katherine. Or just get straight Outta Katherine if you’re already there already. Like you didn’t know to (get Outta Katherine, that is). Head west, which means south, but those people got it all upside down already, because this time it’s Western Australia that you have in your sights, which is of course West, but the road from the Katherinites perspective somehow departs from Katherine South. Go West - where the big brown land gets bigger and browner and like a gameshow in the outback the rising escarpments say “Come on Down”.

The boab tree, nearly as funny as the Western Australians

So get set for adventure, boab trees (you’ll like this one) and the best weird post-Brutalist sculptures on any roadside ever. Anywhere. Guaranteed.

Onward to the post-brutal West

As you get some kilometres under your belt speeding in a westerly direction along the mighty Victoria Highway away from Katherine and its Hot Springs and Gorge, etcetera etcetera, then you’ll notice the landscape slowly start to rear up and buckle some. Hills are the hot new thing out here, and pretty soon it’s catching on: Big hills are the go and when the rolling wide spaces get the hang of that there are escarpments.

Timber Creek sets the heart a-moving, not for its Wayside Inn nor the quaint little houses on little stilts at the nearby Indigenous community, but for the great towering wall of rock that somehow resembles a giant red piano with its top aloft, ivories etched vertically into the face greeting you as you come over the rise. After flat for breakfast, flat for lunch and, yes, flat for dinner for so long, it’s great to see somewhere take some initiative and stand up for itself and really do something different.

Sure there’s an escarpment in Arnhem Land, out at Oenpelli (Gunbalanya), and another down from Darwin at Hayes Creek. Even Katherine has a gorge and a 20-metre drop into the river bed from the bridge over north of town. But as the landscape’s canvas gets pretty stretched the further west you go, its spots like as this that manage to stand out by virtue of their grand singularity. Or something like that.

Pick your jaw back off your lap, because you’ll probably run into some kind of steering problem with it hanging down there, and get on down the road as Gregory National Park comes beckoning your way. Heck, its got the annual Devil’s Claw Festival (starting May 21 this year) and if that doesn’t go off like a bucket of weeds in the sun then what does? If memory serves me correctly then Gregory is also the second-biggest national park in the Northern Territory, largely because we haven’t crossed the Western Australia border yet, and being big there’s bloody heaps so why not just go there and save the precious paragraphs for that roadside wonder!

Keep River National Park

Pack your swag and keep on west and Keep River National Park will wander by your wheels. A nice stop, there’s lots of national parky goodness and that usually entails a bunch of space, trees, wet bits like creeks et al, and some bits with animals and clumps of dirt. You get the picture?

And, reeling in back in my recliner and reaching for my pipe, I care now to reflect on the trip after New Yeah’s 2002 (that Was a new yeah, ask in Darwin) when we burnt across the border, pursued by nightly displays of thunderheads and lightning all the way to Kununurra. If you’ll allow me a moment more, I shall recall how in Keep River we stood under a covered area some 15-metres wide, bereft of real shelter as the approaching cyclonic winds rendering tent a funny way to use to T’s, and somehow the rain managed to fall horizontally, wetting the ground and us when the odds said we were undercover. (So mental note, January = wet, but subnote: spectacular.)

Suffice to say we packed the van again and drove through puddles that would score a mention on some maps as new formed lakes, as we skipped the last bit across the highway, missing much of Keep River NP’s natural splendour.

An interesting to point to note at this stage, much as the order you find out as you approach the WA border: that load of fresh fruit and veggies you bought back in Katherine to see you through the next two weeks - forget it. Make an omelette, curry, stew, meal or two right now because just for crossing an invisible dotted line you lost the right to own it. Quarantine restrictions mean NO biological matter (they’ll even take beeswax candles) can go across the border. Sad but true. And rumour has it these guys don’t even like fruit or veggies, preferring a steak to anything and scurvy is just another kind of necktie to them.

Beef Road Monument: Does it get any better???

And crikey! In all that interstate excitement I forgot clear about the wonder of the North itself, combining three of the most important words in the Australian Language: Beef Road Monument. Like some alien Monolith without the adoring apes, or even a runaway Picasso, this mighty block of concrete sporting the unique corrugated iron style is a Must for any family holiday. Damn, I rushed out of the car and hugged it I was so happy to see something that finally settled all my yearnings for beef, roads and monuments in one. It’s not clear how it relates to any of these things, but something inside of me just Knew. You’ve seen brutalism in architecture, there’s “post-“ just about everything as you’d know from any decent late-night campfire postulations (post-structuralist, post-modernist, post-arrivalist) and this thing is so post, that its pretty much post-post-Brutalist its so post-like and Brutal at the same time.

Do yourself a favour, go there and hug it so you know what true, unflinching gratitude can be.

Oh yeah, from there you can drive over the border and on to about one third of Australia’s land mass where you can find the Kimberleys in all their large and resplendent glorious, um… splendour. Rivers with wild crocodiles, gorges beyond description, boab trees (funny things) and Western Australians (even funnier). That’s if you find the need to tear yourself away from the Beef Road Monument. It should probably have National at the start of that, just so we can hang a flag there. I think I’m weeping…

–Jack Brown

Planning a trip? We think Jack is suggesting you check out things to do in Perth, Broome and the splendor of Western Australia, including the Kimberley. But you just never know with Jack.

A friend told me the first time I came here, that every summer you spend in Berlin, will be better than the last. You have survived the long winter, now the sunshine is warm and you want to make the most of it.The city parks are indeed plentiful, and inside their lush greenery is where you will find the locals hanging out, enjoying the sunshine and working on their tans.

Many of them have a café, some have Ping Pong tables, a flea market or a lake. And of course, this being Germany, there is often an important site redolent with history to be found close by. So here’s my list of the top places to be, things to do, in Berlin this summer.

Yes, there are plenty of things to do in Berlin during summer

Things to Do in Berlin: Visit a Park

Gorlitzer Park in Kruezberg is across the road from one of the places I stayed on my first trip to Berlin, watching the puffballs float through the air, making my through the chattering Turkish family picnics and groups of young kids hanging out, doing capoiera, or playing ball games. This area was heavily bombed during World War II; an enormous crater is left in the park, showing where the railway underpass ran, as a reminder of the desecration and violence of war. The twisted metal from the railway underneath is formed into an abstract monument, jutting up into the sky. Edelweiss Cafe is opposite the faux roman ruins – an expensive edifice that is crumbling and in genuine decay now, as the sandstone absorbs the water that freezes and then cracks, making them into an all the more authentic, although expensive folly. The café has lush banquette seating, a nice relaxed vibe and upstairs hosts parties, concerts and literary events, in summer the chairs outside are perfect for observing the passing parade.

The Mauer Park hosts one of the best flea markets in town every Sunday, and the wandering musicians and buskers will keep you entertained after you have sifted through the incredibly range of second hand treasures and junk. During the recent Berlinale Film Festival, the crowd suddenly swelled with the upmarket well-dressed international film-set, making a change from the usual mixed array of hipsters, artists, and stalwart locals. The scout hall tucked away in the middle of market is an island of calm, at least until the play area becomes overrun by small children. Until then, get yourself a coffee or beer from the outside bar, and lean back in your deckchair and relax on the sand in the sun, with the generic euro-dance music making it a kind of after-party every Sunday.

This is of course along where the Berlin wall ran, creating a limbo zone on either side, and it has been regenerated over the past 20 years into the lively district it is today. Further down Bernauer Strasse towards Nordbahnhof, a short section of the wall still stands, opposite the new museum and a fascinating open-air exhibition about the history of the street, centering around the construction and eventual destruction of the wall.

Next, lose yourself in the rambling Volkspark Friedrichshain park, which has play areas for all ages – from children to fitness freaks - plus wonderful wooden swings, a lake, elephant statues and some lovely paths winding through hills and monuments. Café Schönbrunn is closest to the Am Friedrichshain street entrance, near the corner of Hans Otto Strasse, overlooking the lake and a gorgeous patch of emerald lawn, it has a cosy minimalist interior and outdoor terrace to enjoy the sun and warm evenings.

Nola’s Am Weinberg Swedish Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge is at the top of the hill in the Volkspark am Weinberg, named after the former vineyards located on the site, between Veternanenstrasse and Kastanienallee. They have a decadent if slightly pricey menu, including a variety of fondues, and there is a special lunch deal of 3 courses for around 8 euro. The view and ambiance make the prices worthwhile, looking over the grassy hill and across the city, and the benches along the terrace are perfect for late afternoon drinks, while the sun disappears behind the trees.

Eve and Adam’s 100% organic salad and smoothie bar (at Rosa Luxemburg Strasse 24-26) will keep your energy flowing with vitality and freshness, perfect summer taste after that walking in the park. All of the containers are biodegradable, and the design is simple and refreshingly open.

Things to Do in Berlin: Mitte Revisited

Now that I’ve lived here for 3 months I’ve found that there is plenty of joy to be found in Mitte, from the Ballhouse to the bathhouse. Schwarzwaldstuben, on the corner of Linienstrasse and Tucholskystrasse, is a fabulous place to while away a decadent afternoon, with robust German dishes and decent coffee. A friend and I tucked ourselves into the couch one afternoon, as we couldn’t head back out onto the streets until the hurricane passed, so spent a lush few hours drinking sekt.

You might want to get back out into the sunshine, and find your way along the many galleries on these two parallel streets to see what’s happening in the commercial art world these days. The scene is definitely hot, hyped and popping, with careers and fortunes being made all over town.

The Ballhaus Mitte, on Auguststrasse, is a fantastic reminder of bygone days, with a minimal entrance fee, old-style charm, live music, and even dance classes a few nights a week.

Stadtbad Mitte has an amazing Russian-style bathhouse and sauna on the third floor, although make sure you follow all the rules during your visit, or the ladies will berate you and fetch the manager to get you back on the program. The dry sauna has an intermediate room with stone benches, and a larger wooden area that gets very hot, and the damp room is satisfyingly steamy. The plunge pool will refresh you in between, if you can dip more than a toe in it, and the relaxing room has a lush array of rocking chairs that tilt back for the full therapeutic effect.

Things to Do in Berlin: Expose Yourself to Art

Artnews Projects, Berlin

The art galleries have blossomed into another cluster along Brunnenstrasse, where if you time your visit to coincide with all their openings, can provide a colourful evening’s entertainment. Artnews Projects has consistently the best shows I’ve seen on this strip, where the New York to Berlin art crowd are making a splash, and I often finish up at Curators without Borders for the best parties, or the after-party at Kim and Zurmobel out the back of Brunnenstrasse 10.

Alternatively make your way out along Invalidenstrasse to Heidestrasse, where a different batch of the art crowd has set up camp, with Tape, AA, Haunch of Venison, and more galleries, Pecha Kucha nights and art scene parties

Program Gallery hosted me for three months, and has an open approach and diverse range of art events and exhibitions, everything from installation to the weekend symposium on sound art and architecture, and most recently a workshop in which the gallery was taken over by a group of fantastically bohemian and very dedicated French artists, who created a river of blood and roasted a pig as part of their work. The gallery also hosts a monthly reading group, and is home to many architects and designers working in the open plan space. Drop by and say hi.

Things to Do in Berlin: Film & Theatre

The tiny cinema opposite Babel at K77 has a great program of art house films, next door is Dock 11 Dance studio for experimental dance, music, literature and film fans. If you really can’t stand being inside, then check out the Freiluftkino open-air cinema. A number of them spring up around the city between May – September, with a great program of new release and classic films.

The Volksbuhne is one of the most innovative and spectacular theatres in town, established in 1914, with a commitment to providing entertaining theatre and an ongoing debate on political and cultural issues. Also hosting live music and ‘expanded theatre’ projects, check out the program for this sumptuous performance venue.

–Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Berlin tours & things to do in Berlin.

Last year Viator offered its first private after-hours tour of the Vatican & Sistine Chapel in Rome. This is a private small-group tour of the Vatican and Sistine Chapel. Yes, you heard right — a private two-hour tour of the Vatican and Sistine Chapel, after the crowds go home, without hordes of people spoiling your view.

The Creation of Adam, from Michelangelo’s ceiling fresco in the Sistine Chapel

Well, it was a smashing success. So we’re offering it again. Just like last time, tickets are limited to 60 people each evening, and each group will consist of 20 people maximum plus your own guide. And these tickets are only available through Viator.

And just like last time, this private after-hours tour of the Vatican & Sistine Chapel begins after the Vatican Museums are closed to the general public. The evening is hosted by an English-speaking guide specializing in the Italian Renaissance. You can read the full description of the tour over on the main Viator site, and check out reviews from other travelers who took the inaugural tour last year. In fact, here’s an actual review from one of the people who took the tour:

“Our private tour through the Sistine Chapel was definitely the highlight of our trip to Italy. When we first went by the Vatican, the lines waiting to get in were literally almost a mile long. There were fewer than 20 of us on this tour and the guide was marvelous. She knew so much about the history and the art itself that I never would have known. And the guide was so involved in the subject matter, she made it a very emotional experience for all of us. We ended up spending about an hour in the Sistine Chapel itself which never could have happened without the tour. I would definitely do this again. It’s well worth the money.” –Robert Z, USA

We couldn’t have said it better ourselves, Robert.

At the moment we are offering this exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel on the dates listed below. We will offer additional dates as we get them, so keep checking back or sign up for Viator.com’s email newsletter for the latest updates. This is a completely unique experience, exploring the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel after hours, without the crowds, with time to admire the amazing art and architecture in peace and quiet. What a way to spend an evening in Rome…

Available Dates for the Private Tour of the Vatican & Sistine Chapel

• Friday, May 9, 2008
• Saturday, June 7, 2008
• Friday, June 20, 2008
• Friday, July 4, 2008
• Monday, July 21, 2008
• Saturday, August 2, 2008
• Saturday, August 23, 2008
• Friday, September 5, 2008
• Monday, September 22, 2008

–The Viator Team

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Italy, including Rome tours, Florence sightseeing, <