Archive for April, 2008

Editor’s Note: Terry Carter has photographed and, with his wife and writing partner, Lara Dunston, written or contributed to half a dozen travel guides to Dubai and the UAE and have made it their home base since 1998. We asked Lara and Terry to write about experiencing the “real” Dubai. They have kindly obliged with a guide to eating, sleeping & sightseeing in Dubai aimed at first-time visitors.

Top thing to do in Dubai? Soak up the atmosphere.

Things to Do in Dubai, Day 1: Bur Dubai

Need a place to sleep during your three-day tour? For a supremely ‘local’ experience check in to the boutique Orient House in the atmospheric pedestrian-only Bastakiya area. Or if you prefer a stylish update of the Arabian experience try the Qamardeen or Al Manzil hotels near the new Burj Dubai (currently the tallest building in the world). Of course for an all-out 1001 Arabian Nights experience, it’s hard to go past the plush and more-than-a-little sexy One&Only Royal Mirage.

Now in keeping with our Emirati /Arabian theme, start the day with a cultural breakfast at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU), a rare opportunity to try authentic Emirati food, learn about local culture and ask any questions you have about traditional and contemporary Gulf life – don’t be shy!

Wander around the Bastakiya area with its enigmatic, restored wind-tower houses. Once home to wealthy Persian traders, it’s now the centre of a flourishing art scene. Head to the Majlis Gallery for some souvenirs, XVA gallery for a snapshot of contemporary Middle East art, followed by a casual lunch at the nearby Basta Art Café where the fruit cocktails are sublime and relaxing under the shady trees is a treat.

Breakfast at Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding, Dubai

To further escape the afternoon heat, make your next stop the compact and compelling Dubai Museum, housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings (a restored fort) and learn how this former fishing village evolved into the daring metropolis it is today.

After taking in the amusing dioramas of old souq (market) life at the museum, take a late afternoon meander through the Bur Dubai souq while the traders are shaking off their siesta and check out the tempting textiles, sparkling slippers, cheap kitsch t-shirts, and the fascinating ‘Hindi Lane’, where local Hindus head to worship, buying fragrant flowers and fruit offerings for their rituals.

As the suns sets, stroll along the Creek’s edge down to the Shindagha area, stopping in at Sheikh Saeed’s house to check out the wonderful historic photo collection in the beautifully restored residence, then head into the Heritage and Diving Village where recreations of coastal life of the local people are wonderfully realised. If you’re fortunate, you might catch locals performing traditional songs and dances as well as old Emirati women preparing tasty traditional bread.

With your taste buds tantalised, have an Arabic dinner at Kan Zaman overlooking the Creek or head back to the Bastakiya area to dine at the enchanting Bastakiyah Nights, completing your day of tasting local Emirati life. Or, if you’re up for more, head to one of the sheesha (water pipe or hookah) cafés that are dotted along the Creek to finish the night with a local ritual – try the aromatic apple sheesha.

Things to Do in Dubai, Day 2: Deira

Day 2 starts with another must-do Dubai experience – an abra (water taxi) ride across the Creek to the other side of the city (Deira). Everyone from South-East Asian expat traders, locals in their elegant flowing dishdashas (the blindingly-white local dress), and tourists use this form of transport, as much to soak up the Creek atmosphere as to beat the bridge and tunnel traffic – all for a measly 33 cents. You’ll get a glimpse of the restored wind-tower architecture on the waterfront, and pass dhows (traditional cargo-carrying wooden boats) making their way to a berth along the Creek. Once safely on terra firma, take a wander along the fascinating dhow wharves where everything from four-wheel-drives to the kitchen sink are loaded on these boats bound for Gulf and Asian destinations.

Stroll across to sample the aromas in the spice souq then follow the souq down to two of Dubai’s underrated historic gems. The Ahmadiya School (1912) was Dubai’s first private school and has been restored with exquisite attention to detail, while the adjacent Heritage House (1890) was once owned by the wealthy pearling merchant who started the school. Both are wonderful traditional houses of the pre-oil era and showcase the charm of and grace of local courtyard houses.

Back out on the streets, get lost in the covered souq (don’t panic, everyone does!) and mix up your own fragrance at one of the plentiful perfume houses. Size yourself up for a sparkly kitsch belly-dancing outfit (for her) or a dapper wooden cane (for him) or weigh up some simple or ornate jewelery at the legendary gold souq, where you can bargain for some of the cheapest gold in the world – shop around and enjoy the haggling ritual! One of our favourite breaks on this shopping excursion is to grab a cheap, filling shawarma (juicy, fragrant lamb or chicken rolled up in a pita bread) and a super-fresh mango juice at Ashwaq Cafeteria, a block from the gold souq.

If you want to shop until you drop, jump in a taxi and head to Deira City Centre (one of Dubai’s oldest and most popular shopping malls) where you can escape the heat, do some people-watching and buy some souvenirs – haggle for carpets, Aladdin’s lamps and beautiful hand-beaten brass coffee pots. Be prepared to shop for another suitcase to get your haul home! Take a coffee break and hang out with the locals who meet their friends here for a chat at one of the myriad cafés.

Freshen up back at the hotel, then if you can’t get enough of the Creek, take a dinner cruise on the Bateaux Dubai, or, if you’re craving more Middle-Eastern atmosphere, make a late booking for Awtar, the Lebanese restaurant at the Grand Hyatt where the classic Lebanese night out of mezze (starter snacks), fragrant grilled meats, sheesha, band and belly dancer melds into the early hours.

Things to Do in Dubai, Day 3: Jumeirah & the Desert

Start the day with a tour of the handsome Jumeirah Mosque with the SMCCU people. On a visit to the mosque you learn about the Islamic prayer rituals, from how the five times daily call-to-prayer (signified by the melody of the mezzuin who leads the prayer) is calculated by the sun and moon, to the performing of ablutions (washing before prayer) and how the prayer ritual is carried out. It’s also a great opportunity to ask questions about Islam in general at the Q&A session afterwards.

Dubai Desert Safari

Jump in a taxi or a local bus (they run frequently along Jumeirah Beach Rd) and head up to Madinat Jumeirah, a contemporary interpretation of an old Arabian souq. Here you can do some more shopping, take in the atmosphere, and watch the abras glide along the man-made canals. Have lunch at one of the excellent waterside restaurants (there’s everything from pasta to Moroccan) before heading back to the hotel to freshen up before your desert safari in Dubai’s desert conservation reserve.

After an exhilarating drive through the dunes, where you might spot the rare and reintroduced oryx (like a desert dwelling deer) but will see plenty of camels, prepare yourself for a sublime desert sunset. The safari provides a great opportunity to catch up on those must-do’s that you didn’t have time for over the last couple of days – you can take a camel ride, watch a belly dancer, get a henna tattoo, sample some local cuisine, and smoke some sheesha. And while the safari is definitely a touristy th’ng to do, you can drink a toast to having experienced the closest you’ll get to the ‘old’ Arabian Dubai.

–Terry Carter

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of tours in Dubai, from desert sandboarding safaris to Dubai city sightseeing tours.

Iguazu Falls area - Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay

I have not been to Brazil. That’s the official line and I am sticking to it. However, the reality is, I have been to Brazil. Well…

My trip was simple enough. After visiting the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls we would transit the very corner of Brazil to Ciudad del Este in Paraguay, where we booked a charming riverside guest house to spend a couple of days before taking a local bus to Asuncion. (That’s a story for a future post!)

As any prepared traveler, I checked the situation for visas with both the US State Department and each countries consulate– Paraguay, check. Argentina, Check. Brazil: Not required for transit from Argentina to Paraguay. Excellent! Brazilian visas are expensive and I was happy to not pay this. I printed the information page from the consular website to take with me, “just in case”.

After several incredible days of hiking and relaxing at Iguazu, we hired a local taxi to take us to the border of Brazil. From there, we would transit by bus to Paraguayan border, walk across the bridge and take another local taxi to our guesthouse. At the Argentine/Brazil border, we were stamped out of Argentina with a hearty “Adios” and “Buen Viaje”. We walked through the no-man’s land to the Brazilian immigration office and presented our shiny blue American passports. The officer frowned and fired something at us in Portuguese.

Now, my partner speaks Spanish fluently and with a little improvisation can get out some basic phrases in Portuguese, but did we hear this correctly? They wanted $250 ($150 more than a “real” Brazilian visa) to transit for 45 minutes?? No way! We tried to explain the situation that a visa was not required. I even provided the printout that I brought with me from home – BAD MOVE! As it turns out, the US had just started charging $100 for a US visa to Brazilians and they were one of the first groups of travelers to be photographed and fingerprinted for entry. Needless to say, there was no negotiation and we simply were turned away. Dejected, we took a taxi back to Argentina and called our guesthouse in Paraguay to tell them that we could not make it – and that’s where the fun began!

Shortly after our news, our Paraguayan hosts called back and said that they were coming to pick us up - on a speedboat! It turns out that the boat can motor down the Parana River and navigate directly to the Argentine waters without ever entering Brazil. Great! We were instructed to go down to the river area, where the boat would meet us. What service! We trekked down to the boat docks and waited. It was a Sunday and the normal ferries were not running. The area was deserted and a bit eerie. We waited and waited.

About an hour later, the phone rang again – the boat was not working. Now they were coming to get us - with a car. Again, we explained our situation and they told us not to worry. We would not need to go through customs. Intrigued (and not wanting to re-arrange the rest of the trip), we agreed. About an hour later, a car (with Paraguayan tags) arrived. We were warmly greeted by the Manuel, the hotel owner and his Brazilian girlfriend Ratina. They gave us a glass of wine and we chatted as we sped off toward Brazil for the second time. As we approached the border, Manuel casually turned around and told us to “crouch down on the floor”. It was then that it hit me. We were not being “assisted” through customs. We were being “smuggled” through customs and it was too late to turn back now. We did as we were told and Manuel drove through the commuter lane and waived at the guards. It was that easy. We were in Foz de Iguacu, Brazil! Manuel and Ratina wanted to stop in for a bite to eat. By this time we were a little concerned and did not want any more troubles. We asked if we could just continue on to the hotel instead. They insisted that we celebrate our Brazil “visit” with a drink. We reluctantly agreed and stopped for a glass of wine. Manuel also bought a bottle of scotch. This was clearly a lot of fun for them.

Our departure from Brazil was quite simple. Once again, we were instructed to crouch on the floorboards as Manuel sped through the gates. Our arrival in Ciudad del Este was also straight forward. Manuel explained that the guards may wonder why we did not have an entry/exit stamp from Brazil and he would take care of everything for us. He took our passports (complete with official Paraguay visas) AND the bottle of scotch from earlier. Ah-ha! Something to smooth our entry. Fifteen minutes later it was “Bienvenidos – Paraguay,” and we were back on track.

–Ken Frohling

Editor’s note – Viator does not condone Human Trafficking, Smuggling or Bribery and Ken’s HR file has been duly noted. If you are going to Brazil or Argentina (legally), check out our full range of tours at Viator.com.

It’s almost time for Jazz Fest in New Orleans — the last weekend in April and the first weekend in May, to be precise. It’s a time of renewal, when musicians and fans of the city return and, in some parts of town (for at least a week), it feels like Katrina never happened. To be sure Jazz Fest is a wonderful event, and also a reassurance that the Big Easy can still put on a show and a party all at once. New Orleans kicks it up for a number of other festivals as well, including Mardi Gras and the French Quarter Festival (this month). But what about the rest of the year?

I have been dropping in on New Orleans since 1988 and, like many, I have come to regard the city as an old, eccentric friend. Since Hurricane Katrina struck in the late summer of 2005, my visits have acquired a tinge of melancholy. Or perhaps it’s merely the diminished levity you would expect to experience while checking in on a once-vigorous old man as he recovers from a stroke. The house is still exquisitely disheveled and endlessly interesting, but along with your usual curiosity you bring genuine concern for the old man’s wellbeing. Deep down, you know the old man will never be the same.

In this case, my concern is mixed with a vague and uncertain hopefulness. The floods and political dithering that followed Hurricane Katrina in September 2005 had the effect of a rising and receding tide. Part of the city was washed away forever. But perhaps something new and no less alive was left in its place. Perhaps, too, new seeds will blow in and take root.

New Orleans: Cool Car No, Beef Po’boy Yes

On a recent Wednesday afternoon I arrived at Louis Armstrong International and found my way to the Avis counter. I asked about the company’s “Cool Car” collection, thinking it might be a kick to test drive a Ford Mustang. The woman at the counter shook her head sympathetically. “Not at this location, sir.” When I asked why, she simply said, “High theft.”

That would be a reference to New Orleans’ crime problem. The city’s population is at about 60 percent of its pre-Katrina figures, but crime is as bad as ever. New Orleans has always had its bad-news side, but when a city is in a state of recovery, the bad news hits harder. The real victims, of course, are the residents trying to rebuild their lives and their communities here. I, on the other hand, would make out alright with a Chevy Impala.

Rather than head directly to my hotel, I detoured to an old haunt, Liuzza’s by the Track, for a roast beef Po’boy - New Orleans’ version of a hero sandwich. The lunch hour was over and the place was only half full. A favorite time of day for me. A heavy-set cop at one table, a pregnant woman one over, an old-timer telling stories to some younger guys at the bar, and black and white photos of jockeys and horses watching over the scene. I ordered a bowl of gumbo and a sandwich and settled down. This little corner of the city felt right as ever.

New Orleans: Onward to Frenchmen

Spotted Cat, Frenchmen St, New Orleans

With renewed energy, I drove the Impala down Esplanade, hooked left onto Frenchmen, and checked into the Frenchmen Hotel. Nice enough spot, in a Creole townhouse with a back courtyard. Its real strength was location. Frenchmen Street had always been one of the city’s best entertainment strips, long before Katrina, and it recovered quickly after the disaster. Parts of the Quarter are great. But I prefer the local vibe on Frenchmen Street. Tourists do come here, but they’re not of the boozy-wet-T-shirt variety that swarms Bourbon Street.

That night, a bar crawl revealed some surprises. Ray’s Boom Boom Room, Blue Nile, the Spotted Cat, the Apple Barrel, d.b.a., and Snug Harbor were not only open and featuring live music (trad jazz, modern jazz, blues, brass bands, Gypsy swing, and country on this night), but all were packed. This was an ordinary Wednesday. A relatively quiet night just a few blocks away in the French Quarter, during an obvious lull in the tourist season. Yet Frenchmen Street was hopping.

Before Katrina, I could go from club to club and expect to run into familiar faces and old friends, but things have changed. Perhaps I don’t spend enough time here anymore. New Orleans has always attracted new residents, typically young people still unburdened by careers, families, and property, ready and willing to spend a few years in the USA’s most exotic city. I’m guessing Katrina washed out a good portion of one generation of such people, scattered them to their hometowns or to other cities that exert a pull on wayward souls. By all appearances a new crop of outsiders has filled the void. New Orleans’ musical appeal isn’t lost on them, either.

Most of the musicians are still around - familiar characters like Kermit Ruffins, Irvin Mayfield, Walter “Wolfman” Washington, and Washboard Chaz. These artists are all gifted performers who tour regularly, but their New Orleans shows benefit from the context, intimacy, and familiarity that can’t be duplicated elsewhere. Frenchmen Street is a row of house parties.

In the midst of it all, however, I encountered Lionel Batiste, Sr., bass drummer of the legendary Tremé Brass Band, sitting alone at the bar of the Spotted Cat, looking sullen and out of place. By his demeanor I took it he didn’t want to be bothered, so I didn’t ask what was on his mind. But I couldn’t help but think that all was not well with the music scene when the usually gregarious Lionel seem so out of sync with it. On the other hand, you can’t always extrapolate from what may just be one man’s bad night.

New Orleans: A Tour of the Lower Ninth Ward

The next morning, however, I decided to poke around a bit. I drove down to the Lower Ninth Ward, one of the most heavily devastated sections of town, to see if there was any sign the neighborhood was likely to ever come back. Two years ago, when I visited after Katrina, the bashed up houses of the Lower Ninth lay about like unmoored boats washed ashore. Now they’re gone.

Lower Ninth Ward, New Orleans

The streets, cracked sidewalks, power lines, and a few sturdy oaks are all that remain. The lots are overgrown with grasses and weeds, chunks of foundation poking up like unmarked tombstones. A mere handful of the neighborhood’s residents have returned, some having rebuilt, others inhabiting white FEMA trailors.

These are the stalwarts who prefer to live in the ghostly void of their old neighborhood, rather than in Houston or Atlanta.

The Lower Ninth was predominantly a black neighborhood. It was poor, to be sure, but deeply rooted and full of life. Parts of town such as this one contributed so much to New Orleans’ multi-cultural traditions. As I stood amidst the desolation of the Lower Ninth Ward, I could see little reason to believe it will ever really come back.

New Orleans: Signs of Hope in Mid-City

Elsewhere, however, I found signs of hope. Mid-City, the broad patchwork of mixed neighborhoods between the French Quarter and City Park, is gradually returning to life. I drove to Willie Mae’s, a great old soul food restaurant run by an ancient black woman who must be in her 90s by now. It was closed, but a fresh coat of exterior paint and neatly set tables inside indicated I had just chosen the wrong day to show up. Nearby, I checked in on Ernie K-Doe’s Mother-in-Law Lounge, a bar opened by the late, great soul singer before his untimely passing in 2001. Here, too, freshly painted murals suggested good times will soon roll again. As I stood in front, snapping photos, the door opened and Antoinette K-Doe, Ernie’s widow, invited me in. It was midday, and the place wasn’t actually open. But this is the sort of informal hospitality New Orleans has always been known for.

I had read about Antoinette’s Katrina travails. She and three other people had been trapped upstairs for a week as the ground-floor bar filled with water. She had warned off looters by firing a shotgun into the sky. The bar had been stripped and remodeled, and thanks to Antoinette’s good care, a life-sized statue of Ernie survived the disaster. The Ernie statue now sat in the lounge, looking dapper in a fire-engine red suit, while Antoinette waxed philosophical about the future.

“You got to go on with your life,” she said with a shrug. “Make the most of each day, ’cause you can’t do it over. Getting stressed don’t help. It just puts you in the ground sooner.”

–Tom Downs

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s New Orleans tours & things to do and travel tips & itineraries in New Orleans.

At Viator.com we’ve spent a lot of time thinking about sustainable travel, and about how we can make a difference. There’s no denying that travel — air travel in particular — is a major source of greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide. Any serious attempt to grapple with global warming must include a strategy to offset the negative impacts of domestic and international travel.

One thing we’ve done at Viator is create a carbon offset program for both our staff (who will collectively fly an estimated 1.2 million miles this year, so we have plenty of minimizing and offsetting to do) as well as for you, our customers and fellow travelers. To offset your own carbon emissions, visit our Go Carbon Neutral page and learn what you can do to help.

Beyond mitigating the impact of travel, we wanted to learn more about sustainability in general. Minimizing the impact of travel is a great start. But it’s only one piece of a much larger (and frankly complicated) puzzle. To give us some perspective we asked Paul Redman-Brown, the director of Australia’s Natural Strategies Group, to give us his top 10 tips for living a sustainable lifestyle. We hope Paul’s list of 10 sustainability actions strikes a chord with you. It did with us.

#1 Reduce & offset car emissions

A litre of petrol produces about 2.5kg (5 lbs) of greenhouse gases, while a US gallon produces nearly 15 lbs of greenhouse gases. So let’s use less and offset the emissions we “have” to have. Here are some suggestions:

• Drive less — walk, ride & use public transport instead
• If you must drive, plan to do a number of errands in one trip rather than several trips and save both time and fuel (for the first couple of minutes of a car trip the engine is cold and this results in an increase in fuel consumption)
• Inflate tires to the maximum recommended pressure
• Travel light - an extra 50kg (110 lbs) increases fuel consumption by 2%
• Remove roof racks to improve aerodynamics and reduce drag
• Drive a smaller, more efficient car
• If driving a manual select the correct gear - driving in a lower gear wastes fuel
• Drive more slowly - at 110km/h (68 mph) your car uses 25% more fuel than at 90km/h (55 mph)
• Use the air-conditioning sparingly - air-conditioning increases fuel consumption by up to 10%

#2 Embrace energy efficiency

Energy conservation through the adoption of efficient technology and behaviors saves resources and money. Here are some simple starters:

• Install compact fluorescent light bulbs. Compact fluorescent light bulbs use about 80% less energy than incandescent bulbs, produce the same amount of light, and can last up to 10 times longer.
• Block the summer heat. Install blinds and sun shades or plant deciduous trees to prevent the summer heat from over-heating your house.
• Circulate air. Install ceiling fans for cooling in summer and circulating rising heat in winter, and decommission your air-conditioner.
• In winter, turn your heating thermostat down a few degrees (say to 20°C or 70°F) and bundle up
• Let nature work for you. Use your clothes line rather than the clothes dryer.

#3 Buy renewable electricity

Every time you use electricity in your home, greenhouse gases are belched out on your behalf. So buy the clean stuff! Simply seek out and purchase 100% renewable electricity from your local provider, or offset your normal electricity supply with carbon credits from trees or renewable electriciy.

#4 Invest ethically

Your investments may fund activities that are not sustainable and may be contrary to your ethics. Money talks, what is yours saying?

• Find an ‘ethical’ or socially responsible financial advisor. Check sites like Google, the Ethical Investment Association Australasia, or the UK’s Ethical Investment Co-Operative.
• When making an investment, ask yourself: does my investment support or detract from my stated position or ethics?; does my investment add to or detract from the quality of world my children will inherit; would I support what this company is doing if there were not dollars to be made by investing in it?

#5 Eat less meat

Land used for beans and vegetables produces 10 times as much protein as land used for raising beef. Sound scary or impossible? It’s not the difficult, here’s how you can start:

• Replace one “meat meal” per week with a vegetarian option.
• Start exploring vegetarian recipes and cooking sites, such as vegweb.com, vegcooking.com and the International Vegetarian Network.

#6 Promote sustainable living

Help spread the word about those actions we can all take to reduce our impact on the environment. Spread the word about sustainability: The more discussions, arguments and gentle cajoling we engage in, the better. So do the actions to move yourself toward sustainability and then encourage others.

#7 Carpool

Those regular trips to work, the market or school can be done with others — and you’ll have more fun, use less and spend less.

• Car pool to work. Send an email around work asking if anyone lives close to you and if they would be keen to alternate driving to work with you.
• Car pool to the store. Speak to you neighbour and explore if they’d be keen, and if it’s convenient, to share the regular trip to the supermarket of local food markets.
• Car pool the kids to school. Speak to the parents of your children’s local friends and see if you can alternate driving the kids to school (this one means less time on the road for you, too!).

#8 Immerse yourself in nature

Go hiking, bird watching, swimming in the sea and simply enjoy nature and your connection to it. It’s good for the body and great for the soul. We are blessed with a fantastic natural environment, and the adage “Use it or lose it!” applies abundantly to this shrinking and under-resourced part of our society. So organize a family picnic at the botanic gardens, a sea-kayaking adventure with your mates, or a short walk through some rainforest you come across in your travels. Take a deep breath and be thankful for nature’s wonder.

#9 Generate less, use less

The average Australian or American household wastes over $1,000 dollars per year purchasing items they never use. So use what you buy, buy less and save. Some simple ideas to get your creative processes rolling:

• Eat all the fresh and takeaway food you purchase. Don’t waste it.
• Buy a lunchbox for leftovers and take it to work
• Have a couple of “clear out the fridge” meals prior to the next visit to the grocery store
• Get better at only buying what you’ll use.
• Pause every time you go to buy clothes, shoes, etc… and ask yourself if you really and truly need the item.

#10 Buy local & seasonal food

Locally produced food that is grown in sync with the seasons is fresher, healthier and tastes better. And it doesn’t consume as much energy to produce and transport. Here’s what you can do to support locally grown foods:

• Shop at local farmers markets. Farmers markets are the best place to buy locally produced food. You can use these sites to find a Farmers Market near you: Australian Farmers’ Markets Association, the USDA’s list of Farmers Markets by U.S. State, or Farma.org.uk.

At Viator we’re doing what we can to take every step, even small ones, in the direction of sustainable travel and sustainable lifestyles. We hope you take this journey along with us.

–Scott McNeely

The Racetrack, Death Valley

Editor’s Note: Be sure to read the latest traveler reviews of the Death Valley day trip over on the main Viator site. 

Ghost towns, mysterious moving rocks, acrid salt flats, sweeping sand dunes, chiseled canyons, surreal landscapes, and a posh desert castle. Death Valley was just the sort of quirky place I was looking to spend a few, cherished vacation days. Situated in southeastern California between the Mojave Desert and Las Vegas (135 miles / 216 km to the east), Death Valley National Park spans over 3 million acres, is the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere, and is one of the hottest places on earth. (How hot? Temperatures of 120F / 49C are run-of-the-mill.)

Perusing a map of the area before leaving, I noted places such as Dead Man Pass, Last Chance Range, Dry Bone Canyon, and Devil’s Cornfield – they sound like attractions at a Disneyland located in hell. What I found was far from hell, although the unfortunate pioneers who named Death Valley in 1849 would disagree. They barely survived the trip through this merciless valley nestled between the Panamint and Amargosa mountain ranges.

We entered the park on Highway 190, a scenic two-lane road that winds along the Furnace Creek Wash, and crossed a threshold to the past: the history of Death Valley speaks through the land. Curvaceous sandstone hills resembling giant wads of kneaded dough rise from the desert floor. A kaleidoscope of chalky colors and shadows play upon the surrounding mountains and salt-encrusted valley. Millions of years ago, a sea covered the area, leaving behind layers of sediment that striate the landscape and salt deposits that sparkle in the sun. Ruts from wagon wheels dating back to the gold rush days scar the ground.

My travel partner, Benjamin, and I flew from San Francisco to Las Vegas and drove two hours to the valley in a rented SUV (you can also book a day trip to Death Valley from Las Vegas over on the Viator site). We had two backpacks and a giant duffel bag stuffed with gear for camping. Death Valley is a popular destination for backpackers, tent campers, and RV retirees, as well as those looking for more indulgent lodging. In addition to backcountry camping and 9 well-maintained campgrounds with drinking water, clean bathrooms, fire pits, and BBQs, Death Valley also has two hotels: the 4-diamond Furnace Creek Inn and the more reasonably priced Furnace Creek Ranch.

Our schedule was leisurely, but packed with things to do and see. Death Valley’s geologic oddities, dead mining boomtowns, hiking trails, driving tours, and museums could easily fill several weeks and we only had 4 days to explore millions of years of geologic change. Formed by ancient seas and lakes, volcanic action, wind, and erosion, the landscape is composed of terraced rock formations, colorful mineral residue, salt deposits, snaking canyons, and enormous sand dunes.

Devil’s Golf Course, Death Valley

Ubehebe Crater, Death Valley

Driving tours and hiking trails are an excellent way to experience the peculiar world of Death Valley. Places like the Devil’s Golf Course, with its convoluted ground made of sodium chloride craters and spikes, Bad Water at 282 feet below sea level, and the Ubehebe volcanic crater, are but a few of the park’s unusual attractions located conveniently just off the side of the road.

For the daring – skull shattering, unpaved roads lead to places like the Racetrack, a sparkling white playa nestled in dark mountains. One of the more bizarre characters in Death Valley’s roster of oddities, the Racetrack is named for its mystifying moving rocks.

I felt melancholy as I said good-bye to Death Valley. Watching the magical land disappear in the rear view mirror felt like closing the cover of my favorite book, sad that I’d finished the story. Death Valley is a land of extremes, diversity, wonderment, and history and offers something for everyone: golfers, backpackers, mountain bikers, hikers, nature lovers, photographers, and those simply looking for a little R&R. The colorful characters and rich history of Death Valley mixed with the diverse landscapes and natural phenomenon of the park make it a truly unique destination. Don’t let the grisly name fool you; Death Valley is a vibrant desert paradise.

–Cheryn Flanagan

Death Valley is two hours by car from Las Vegas. Viator offers a day trip to Death Valley from Las Vegas that receives great reviews from travelers. Also check out some of the traveler-submitted photos of Death Valley.

Ken’s recent post about Vegas on the Cheap, got me musing about my last trip to Las Vegas, where instead of cheap, I went for quite the opposite, a bit of luxury. I’m not talking crazy high stakes limo lounging VIP bottle service kind of luxury, but the kind that most normal people might go in for as a treat, spending a couple hundred bucks on a really nice day in Vegas. So as a foil to cheapskate Ken I offer up a report on my one day of Vegas decadence!

The Lovely Lights of the Wynn Las Vegas

And where does our day of Las Vegas luxury take place? At the Wynn of course. Let’s glaze over that I got a fabulous online deal (airfare from SFO and one night at the Wynn for $333). I landed mid-day, luxury jet setters do not awake in time for the early morning flights.

One can, naturally, spend some time playing at the very lovely and very pricey Wynn casino tables, but I, alas, am not a gambler by nature. I’d rather lose my money at the Wynn spa. After checking in I presented myself at the spa desk and pored over the options. There are many choices, but as a lover of all things coconut, I went for the Pacific Paradise treatment, a coconut body scrub, with a warm, moisturizing cocoa butter wrap.

The best part of the Wynn spa, and this you can enjoy with a day pass if you’re not staying at the Wynn, is the spa facilities. Technically there’s two spa facilities, one for men and one for women, both are clothing optional. I can only speak for the women’s spa, but I think the men’s is basically the same. The outer spa area is huge lounging area with snacks, teas, fancy water with cucumber or citrus, magazines, a fireplace and gorgeous Rajasthan tapestries from, I assume, the Wynn’s art collection. The inner spa has a sauna, plunge pools, and the biggest jacuzzi I have ever seen. There’s a bank of private showers and pretty much every amenity you need to spruce up. I would highly recommend a visit to the spa to rejuvenate if you are on a long layover in Las Vegas (and Vegas spas are open late, usually until 8 or 9pm). The high standards of Wynn service even apply in the spa, without asking a Wynn employee popped into the sauna to refill my water glass.

Relaxed, and smelling a little like the tropics, I headed from the spa to the theater for a performance of Le Reve. As a lover of all aerial and acrobatic artistry I was pleasantly entertained by Le Reve. I’ve heard it said that Le Reve isn’t as good as Cirque du Soliel, but I’ve seen Cirque shows that weren’t as good, I’ve also seen ones that were better, so I think it has more to do with personal taste than the impressiveness of the show. Was it worth seeing? Absolutely. I nearly headed one theater over to Spamalot, but, for some reason I can’t quite explain, acrobatic feats seemed a bit more luxurious than Monty Python.

Time to eat! The Wynn has a lot of choices for yummy food, and plenty of Steve Wynn spotting, I sat one table over from him on a previous trip at the Italian restaurant, Corsa Cucina. This time I saw him while getting a pre-show ice cream snack at Sugar and Ice. If you only eat at one place in the Wynn, pick up a cone of their home made ice cream, its amazing and the best single item I have eaten at the Wynn. I am not joking.

I opted for some seafood, so I headed to Tableau, far from the maddening casino crowds. A nice green salad, a mixed seafood platter, a glass of champagne, and yes, dessert (it is luxury day!) topped off the evening. Eating alone can be sort of dull, but it was a slow night and my waiter was rather sweetly doting, I nearly invited him to sit down.

I could pretend I partied all night VIP style, but really I fell asleep watching The Daily Show in my very comfy Wynn bed. And frankly, for me, that’s pretty luxurious.

–Kelly G

Thinking of treating yourself to some Las Vegas luxury? Check out Viator’s VIP nightclub passes, helicopter flights and other decadent treats in Las Vegas.

London Airport Transport? Phillipa will sort you out

So, you’re thinking a little summertime in London might be nice. And you’re right. All those divine parks to walk in, gorgeous summer fashions to buy, and delicious pints of lager to drink outside on a warm evening. Not to mention the fish and chips, mushy peas and spotted dick to eat. (Settle down, it’s a pudding: chocolate sponge log with currants and/or raisins in it, served with custard.)

But before these joys unfold, you have to get into the country. Even trickier, you then have to get out again.

So here a few tips on London airports. I’m afraid this might prove to be fairly joyless because, let’s face it, border security these days is tight and anything but fun. Still… off we go.

Heathrow Airport Transport

Five terminals. Yes, five. Not such a problem coming in, but make sure you know which one you’re flying out of because it can be a bit of a hike against the clock if you get the wrong one and have to move between them.

Even moving within a terminal can be a long, footsore prospect. On arrival, don’t despair – you will eventually find the Passport Control area, even if you walk for nearly half an hour! And departing: there’s signage telling you how long the walk is to each gate and take notice of this. Don’t get so distracted by the fabulous shopping that you have to run to the plane.

Terminal 5 has just opened and is the largest free standing structure in Europe, which may be why they can’t find anyone’s suitcase. After trying to send luggage to the wrong destinations for the first day, they just gave up and told passengers they couldn’t take anything with them. This went down very well with the public and of course gave the British media a chance to use lots of puns around the word Terminal. T5 is dedicated to British Airways flights – use that information as you wish, but I’m sure they’ll fix the problem soon.

After you land at Heathrow, and once you get your luggage (if you get your luggage*) you have a number of choices for getting into London. Read Rod’s blog post — London Heathrow Airport Shuttles & Airport Transport — for a complete rundown.

Either way, check online or by phone that the Piccadilly line or Heathrow Express are running if you are planning on using either. I once got to Paddington Station with my Express timed down to the minute for check-in and the train had been cancelled for the day. As the Tube takes a lot longer, my only option was a black cab. I shared with a stranger I met on the cab rank but it still cost us a fortune. And remember, the Tube can malfunction so leave plenty of time if you’re going out to the airport by Underground.

Heathrow has finally realised that the one piece of hand luggage rule was ridiculous in this era of laptops, so you can now carry two pieces of hand luggage through security. You will most likely have to take off your shoes so wear good socks, and your belt, so wear pants that won’t fall down. And of course the 100ml liquid rule applies with all your bottles in a ziplock bag.

*Actually, I’m being unfair: I have never had any luggage lost at Heathrow. Touch wood.

Gatwick Airport Transport

I prefer Gatwick because it’s less busy than Heathrow. South of London, Gatwick has a North and South Terminal, linked by a free shuttle train. The shopping is not bad, and the general amenities must be fine because a man was recently evicted after living in the South Terminal for five years. He only ever left Gatwick to sign on for his unemployment benefit. He was not trapped a la Tom Hanks, just by bad life circumstances.

Gatwick Airport transport choices:

• Gatwick is not served by the Underground. Strike that idea.
• The Gatwick Express to/from Victoria Station, very central, £17 pounds one way, £29 pounds return.
• Two different overground trains go to Gatwick, either to/from Victoria Station or Kings Cross Station. They also stop at any number of stations on the way.
• The bus goes from the South Terminal is probably your cheapest option and goes to Victoria Station. It can be slow though.
• A private car company. If you have a lot of luggage, this is a great option because many, many London train stations have only stairs so if you plan to catch an overground train, you can end up with arms five inches longer than you started the day with. I speak from bitter experience here. And type from across the room.
• A Black Cab. About an hour and around £70.

Luton Airport Transport

Ah, Luton. How I hate thee. And how often I use it because it is home to cheap airlines such as easyJet and Wizz.

North of London and easily reached by Thameslink train from lots of central London stations: Blackfriars, St Pancras (next to Kings Cross), Farringdon, West Hampstead etc. There is no dedicated express, but some of the trains do miss a lot of stations and make it there fast. Leave plenty of time because, although the trains usually run on time, rain can be challenging to them, as can leaves on the track. I am serious. And yes, that is leaves from trees.

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Viator’s Las Vegas Travel Team

As I write this post, I am sitting in the Viator office in Las Vegas and I am not too happy. Now, don’t get me wrong, I enjoy Vegas and of course LOVE working with my colleagues here (Hi guys!), but I never thought of myself as a “Vegas” kinda guy. I am too cheap to gamble and (contrary to popular belief) I don’t really like all the glitz and glamour.

What to do?? What to do??

I have already taken many of the great tours that we have at Viator - the West Rim of the Grand Canyon, the Hoover Dam, and even conquered my claustrophobia with a Helicopter Flight of the Vegas Strip (the free champagne helped!). But as great as these things are, if you have had a rough day in the casino or a late night out you may need at least one day on the cheap in Vegas and it yep, it can be done. Here are five FREE things to do (did he say FREE?) and one really good deal that are right on the Vegas Strip:

The Bellagio Fountains at Night

1. The Bellagio Fountains: Located in front of the Bellagio Hotel, the fountains are a stunning mix of water, music, sound and light. You can check them out multiple times from different vantage points all night long. The shows go every half hour starting late afternoon and every 15 minutes in the evening. You can stop and watch several times each night - they are quite amazing. (Note - last time, even with Celine Dion as the music, I enjoyed it - the fountains are that good!) While you are there, stop in and see the amazing details and stained glass inside the hotel.

2. The Lion Habitat at MGM: The famed MGM lions are on display in the hotel’s special habitat from 12:00 noon to 10:00pm each day. It is easier and cheaper than a safari to Africa to see the lions close up!

3. The Mirage Volcano: In front of the Mirage Hotel, the famous 5-story volcano erupts each night on the hour. This is as close as you can get to a volcano without all that nasty ash and lava.

4. The Pirate Show at TI: At Treasure Island - or “TI” as they now call the hotel – you can watch an elaborately staged pirate duel complete with a lot of noise and a lot of flash. I must admit, I thought it would be hokey, but I enjoyed it! Check with the hotel as times may change, but at time of this post, they are nightly at 7:00pm, 8:30pm and 10:00pm.

Who doesn’t like cheap Blackjack?

5. The Circus Circus “Circus”: – Now, that’s a lot of Circuses (Circi?) in one sentence. But for fun for everyone, head a bit north on the Strip to the Circus Circus Hotel to see the World’s largest permanent circus - or so I am told. They put on a variety of shows every half hour each night – the kids may want to stay and see a few of them!

PowerPass - Las Vegas

6. Las Vegas PowerPass: OK, as promised - it’s not FREE, but it is a good deal. With the Las Vegas PowerPass, for one fixed price you can get entry into a number of Vegas attractions and discounts at several restaurants and shops.

It’s great for people who want to see EVERYTHING (you know who you are) but who don’t want to pay for everything (you know who you are – Dad??). And, come on…you know you want to go to the Liberace Museum, but were you really going to pay for it all by itself? The pass is available in 1, 3, 5 and even 7 day lengths depending on how adventurous you are.

There you have it – So spend your money on some tours, gamble it all or drink the night away - My ideas for the Las Vegas Strip on the Cheap - it can be done.

If you have other ideas for cheap or free things to do, post a comment (I am back next month!)

–Ken Frohling

I had to laugh when I saw this tongue-in-cheek ad campaign for Sydney, the result of another magazine-sponsored attempt to promote the war between cities that never seems to stop. Why is that? Why do cities have to battle each other over which is the “most livable,” “most cosmopolitan” or, even more ridiculous, the “best.”

Mate, I like ‘em all!

For all the same reasons life wouldn’t be much fun if we all looked alike, dressed alike, thought alike or spoke the same way, it’s just really, really good that the world’s major cities are so incredibly un-alike. I hate leaving Sydney and my beloved Bondi Beach, but walking down Piccadilly and through Green Park isn’t too shabby an experience either, and it’s certainly not one you’ll find in Sydney.

That got me to thinking: what are the things I like to do as soon as I arrive in one of these cities, the things that make me glad I’m there? So I made a list.

Ode to the World’s Great Cities

In San Francisco I wait until the weekend (Sunday is best because there’s less traffic) and drive to Treasure Island just before sundown. San Francisco’s skyline is like nothing else; lots of hills, lots of white, tons of quirky buildings and monuments, two big, bold bridges, a huge bay, Alcatraz… there’s a lot to see and it’s all very definitely San Francisco, you couldn’t for a minute confuse it with anywhere else. I see this view in front of an invariably orange sunset and I feel good about being there; that’s a good thing.

London is for walking. Straight out the hotel door, left, right it doesn’t really matter. I keep my eyes open for a park, grab a newspaper — what other city has so many quality daily papers on offer? — and sit myself down on a bench to consume the day’s news. Then on in search of a new pub: with any luck there’ll be a football game on and a partisan crowd to watch it with. Not being a beer drinker is a bit of an impediment, but wine and spirits have the same effect. How many great parks and pubs are there in London? I don’t know, I’m still counting…

Paris is all about watching. Don’t feel guilty: French women — and men too, for that matter — would be annoyed if you didn’t notice how sexy they look in their new Christian Lacroix outfit, their favourite leather jacket, or whatever. They dressed up for you, don’t you get it? So right after unpacking I find a comfortable chair at a cafe on a busy boulevard, pretend to make important phone calls, glance occasionally at the Herald Tribune crossword… and watch the world of Paris go by. Give it a try, and for goodness sake don’t feel bad about it.

Bangkok is for the food. I talked to a couple from New Zealand just the other day, they’d been in Bangkok five days already and admitted they’d had all their meals at the hotel, “it just seemed safest.” OK, if that’s your attitude then maybe this isn’t the city for you. There’s about a zillion street vendors in Bangkok, selling the widest and wildest variety of food and drink you can imagine, so that’s my immersion technique as soon as I land. I’ve even been known to have the cab driver stop before I get to the hotel if I happen to see a vendor doing those little roti-style sweets with egg and carnation milk, rolled up like a crepe. Strike me pink, as my Dad used to say, they’re delicious. Anyway, after one of those I know I’m in Bangkok…

I like visiting Melbourne in winter best of all. That’s because I can go straight from the airport to the football. I mean Australian Rules Football, the real game — maybe that’s not an argument we want to have here — but suffice to say there’s nothing quite like being in a crowd of 80,000 at the MCG, watching Collingwood battle it out with one of their traditional enemies. I know exactly where I am when I hear that roar of “Ball!” go up from 50,000 of our fans — Collingwood supporters are always in the majority — and frankly it doesn’t really matter whether we win or lose, it’s just so Melbourne, so perfect, so unique an experience. Visiting in summer? The cricket works pretty well too…

I find myself in New York a couple of times each year. I don’t mind what season it is, because I know how to connect right away: grab the Times or the New Yorker and check the entertainment listings. Doesn’t matter what month it is, there’s always two or three acts in town that I don’t even have to think twice about wanting to see. And if they’re sold out, it doesn’t matter, just head down to the lower east side and randomise! Any act that’s good enough to get a gig in New York City is worth seeing; there’s tons of great venues, the crowds are always interesting, and if you don’t like the headliner you’ll probably die for the support act. Never fails me…

Got some favourite things to do in favourite cities, the ones you visit all the time and love coming back to? Hit that comments button, OK?

–Rod Cuthbert

Ljubljana is a fabulous town, and set to play a much larger role on the world stage this year as Slovenia steps up and takes the (rotating) role of President of the EU. Slovenia is the first ex-communist country to do so, and one that is far larger in spirit and culture than the geographical area it occupies would suggest. Home to the infamous NSK (Neue Slowenische Kunst) art collective, which includes the band Laibach, painters group IRWIN and the Department of Pure and Applied Philosophy, Ljubljana was high on my list of places to visit when I first dreamed of Europe.

The comets of Ljubljana

The first thing I notice, driving through the Austrian Alps from Klagenfurt Airport, is Ljubljana’s incredibly beautiful setting. Nestled between mountains and even with the inevitable concrete urban growth, this compact city has a great deal of charm. I didn’t even make it to the centre of the old town until after the first week, and managed to spend an entire day under a bridge. (Klagenfurt is a small skiing town in Austria is where the cheap flights land; to reach Ljubljana from here takes less than 2 hours by car and around 3 hours by train.)

Ljubljana: Art & culture

Soak up the atmosphere and orient yourself on arrival with a walk along the three rivers, which connect in the centre of the old town. In winter there is a magnificent display of galaxies and comets throughout the winding cobbled streets, with lighting designed by one of the countries’ most famous painters. The romantic story of Francè Preseren, the National Slovene poet, is commemorated with his statue gazing out the window in Preseren Square. (Here he is eternally looking across longingly at the window of his lost love, Julia, who broke his heart by marrying a German banker. Most of his poetry centers on themes of hopeless love, romantic yearning and existential angst.)

The Slovenian sculptor Marko Pogacnik is a famous “earth healer,” a process he has named lythopuncture. This deals with the energies that flow beyond visible nature, the earth healing process and new consciousness of the earth and our planet. He plans to regenerate the city by aligning the urban vibrations with the natural flow of energy around the globe, but until then the central parliament is somewhat off centre and located on a busy intersection.

The original design by architect Joze Plecnik was to connect the churches on either side of the river with the house of parliament, and so create a power triad through the town. He designed the Triple Bridge across the Ljubljanica river (Tromostovje), the market along the riverbanks and had planned future development of the city, with his not-executed work being the design for a Slovene parliament 120 meters high. (The fourth Bridging the Gap conference takes place in Slovenia in May, hosted by the Environmental Agency of the Republic of Slovenia, with a focus on responding to environmental change.)

Slovenia: Do you feel love?

Ljubljana: See a film

When you’re ready to sink back into the comfort of a velvet chair and watch the latest art-house films, or perhaps experience a live ‘expanded’ cinema performance, make your way to KinoDvor. The classic refurbished cinema is home to an eclectic program of international and local films, and also hosts experimental film and video events, such as the Singing Bridges Live set, where I performed with Luka Dekleva, part of CoDeep collective, and Nova Viator, who run a diverse array of audio visual club nights, a spring festival and one-off performances. If you’re lucky enough to coincide with one of these events, you are sure of a great time, the scene is warm, friendly and welcoming. Keep your eyes and ears open when you’re out and about in the town, as you might also find one of Nova’s art installations scattered throughout the city.

Ljubljana: Eat, drink, danc