Maybe you already know Vienna for it’s culture, architecture and pastries. Now come with me and discover some unlikely features of this charming city. The ‘mobile generation’ can log into Vienna Unlike for GPS locations to all the hippest bars, clubs, shops and ‘wellness’ haunts, and experience the creative energy of the city, living like a local in the Viennese 21st-century avant garde.
Things to do in Vienna: Day 1
I arrived by boat on my most recent visit, travelling through the lock into the city after dark, and cruising past a magnificent unlit bridge, past the Marina Wien restaurant, lit up with retro signage, and docked just near the Danube Hilton.
My first foray is back to the highway bridge, tapping it for sound, when I realise that the new bridge next to the marina is still under construction, some of the cables are swaying loosely, and on further investigation, I find that it will form part of the latest extension to the U2 Metro. Taking the train from the current end of the line at Stadion towards Karlsplatz deposits us directly at Museumsquartier, the epicentre of Vienna’s contemporary cultural precinct. Scattered between the imposing buildings are a fabulous collection of plastic purple lounges, inhabited by hundreds of people soaking up the sun in between visits to the various museums.
Vienna's Kunsthalle
The exhibition at the Kunsthalle Wien when I visit is a slightly PG introduction to PUNK – subtitled ‘No-one is Innocent’. It’s a little hard to convey the iconoclastic spirit of punk in a museum context, although the selection of films is superb. Next to this, Derek Jarman’s ‘Brutal Beauty’ was highly intriguing, as his work also explores punk or anti-establishment themes, being highly autobiographical and political. The show presented his monochrome cinematic work ‘Blue’, along with Super 8 Film, paintings and installations. The current Edward Hopper exhibition also looks fascinating.
Only a short stroll over the lower part of Mariahilferstrasse, head to your left down the stone stairway to Rahlgasse, where you find the arty Cinema Top Kino. The latest and nostalgic art house film screenings are complemented by this remarkably chilled out bar and cafe, with bohemian chic lounges, cute individual terraces, reasonably priced drinks, schnitzel and free wifi. I could hang out there for days.
Wander along Theoboldgasse, Lehargasse and Gumpendorferstrasse to explore some of the smaller commercial art galleries, bars, a great bookshop and dark wood panelled coffee houses, before heading up the hill into the main shopping drag.
Mariahilferstrasse is filled both with history, and outlets for practically every store you can imagine, a great way to combine shopping and more erudite sight-seeing. There is even a very helpful online directory to the street, although the very colourful and woman friendly erotica shop halfway along is missing, check it out for a variety of playful and exotic, dark or hedonistic toys and outfits!
Vienna's Badeschiff
Near on the corner of Windmühlgasse is Radlager, the ultra-hip recycling concept store where you can sample rich decadent espresso, hand-tailored suits and restored vintage furnishings along with the sexy retro bicycles, art and DJ parties. For those dedicated retro junkies, find yourself in vintage heaven at Flo’s Vintage, Schleifmühlgasse 15a, a little further from Karlsplatz and well worth the extra walk.
Detour: The quintessential Viennese evening experience is still a trip to the Prater. More than just a fun-fair, this magnificently hyper-real park offers everything from gravity-defying rides, to the stately Reisenrad, the giant Ferris wheel immortalised in the movie ‘The Third Man’, where you can take a leisurely spin in the cute red wooden swinging cars, looking out across the city lights. This is more my speed than the spinning teacups, which look sedate but are secretly terrifying! Enjoy a beer and lagnos (Hungarian deep fried bread), hot dog or pastry to recover after the fairground thrills.
Things to do in Vienna: Day 2
Waking up to a brisk walk across the park from the boat, and impromptu picnic from the local supermarket, I stroll along the Donaukanal in the city, taking in the beach bars, swimming barge and party venue in the Badeschiff, and beautiful green wrought iron railings on all the bridges.
I first visited the marvellous psychedelic lushness of the Hundertwasser House unexpectedly, walking with a friend, and highly recommend the experience if you can manage to surprise anyone! The curvaceous opulence bursts joyously out of the uniform march of apartment blocks, their monochrome similarity making it all the more astonishing. I loved Hundertwasser’s approach to art, and life, he believed that all things take the time they require, and had a slow-art philosophy long before such things were fashionable.
Vienna's Cafe Prückel
Afternoon tea in Vienna means one thing for me, a visit to Cafe Prückel. Step back 100 years into the lushly decadent surrounds of this Viennese institution, which is surprisingly relaxed and low-key. Lounge about admiring the magnificent ceilings, fabulous ’50s lights and green striped upholstery, while you enjoy a melange and topfenstrudel served by waiters in bow ties and waistcoats, who could be part of the original fittings.
Across the road is the Contemporary Art Museum, MAK, at Stubenring 5, to check out the global trends in furniture, architecture, applied and contemporary art, it’s open til midnight every Tuesday, with special events and performances. Hop onto one of the old-fashioned red wooden Ring trams 1 & 2 for a quick tour of the city.
Stroll up the hill behind Cafe Prückel along Backerstrasse and find yourself at St Stephansdom. There is a fabulous gelato shop diagonally across the square, in case you need a little pick-me-up for the walk, and if you require something a little stronger to recover from the glories of the Gothic cathedral, head to Kärnter Durchgang 10. The American Bar (Loos Bar) is described to me as a famous anarchist drinking place with great cocktails. The interior is entirely black inside thanks to the dark marble and onyx walls, while the 1908 architecture and decor are far more sumptuous than you might expect for an anarchist watering hole – as are the prices!
Things to do in Vienna: Day 3
It’s surprisingly easy to get out of the city, just catch the U1 Metro to Donauinsel, and walk along the 20km of swimming spots and parkland on the banks of the Neue Donau. Turn left from the metro and you’ll be in the bustling array of stalls, restaurants and ‘Danube Jumping’, a cool floating bouncy castle for the kids.
Turn right and walk for half an hour or so to find the Vienna City Beach Club. Perfect for an afternoon relaxing, people-watching and even swimming, the drinks are cold and the DJ’s keep the tunes fresh, soak up the euro-trash ambiance and enjoy a surprisingly refreshing side of Vienna. If you fancy something more energetic, stroll down a little further to the jet-ski bar, where you can whizz round in circles on ski’s propelled by a cable – if you fall off just catch hold of the next one - or speed down the slope on a water board. Me, I’ll just be sunning myself on this deckchair, another martini anyone?
Planning a trip to Austria? Browse Viator’s Vienna tours & things to do, from classical concerts to Vienna day trips. If you need a place to stay, check out Vienna Hotels on Planetware.com.
Leave a Reply