The whole world in your hands

Editor’s Note: Lara was recently in Rome on assignment, taking Viator’s After-Hours Tour to the Vatican. If you’re planning a trip to Rome, there are four dates left if your want to book this private after-hours Vatican tour: August 2, August 23, September 5, September 22.

Let’s face it, the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel – holding one of the world’s richest collections of art – is one of the unmissable sights in Rome. That you must visit it is without question. How you do it is another issue, depending on time and resources.

As we stroll the 15-minute walk from St Peter’s Square, or Piazza St Pietro, along Viale Vaticano, around the colossal block that’s home to the St Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, to the museum entrance, we can’t help but think how incredibly lucky we are.

Our after-hours tour of the Vatican & Sistine Chapel

Long Lines? Unbearable Queues? Not for us

Just a few hours ago, the pavement-wide line of perspiring tourists stretched over a thousand metres along this very route. Some tourists had come prepared, wearing sun hats or shading themselves under umbrellas, continually splashing on the sunscreen to protect themselves from the scorching summer sun. Others were guzzling down tepid aqua frizzante from their water bottles and munching into sandwiches they’d made from the hotel breakfast buffet earlier that morning, too scared to leave for a second to run to a caffé for a cold drink or fresh panini for fear of losing their place. While others – poor things – obviously hadn’t known about the hours of waiting in the slow-moving queue to get inside, and were wilting, no, frying, in Rome’s sweltering heat.

Around 25,000 people visit the Vatican Museums each day. Yes, that’s right – that’s not a typo – 25,000 E-V-E-R-Y day! But thankfully, for cash-rich time-poor travellers and lovers of art and architecture who want to enjoy the museums without the long sweaty wait in line, and then the constant drone of tour guides barking at their groups once they get inside, there is another alternative. And this is exactly what we’ve come to test out – Viator’s After-Hours Tour of the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel.

When we arrive at the entrance, the heavy wooden doors are closed and the small square out front is deserted, as if everyone has gone home. Have our watches stopped? Are we late, we wonder? There are two couples waiting nearby who we discover are the rest of our ‘group’. We’re not fond of big tour groups and we were assured this one would be small, exclusive, intimate. It is, and we’re relieved.

The Vatican welcomes our little group

A few minutes later our guide, Maria Ludovic, arrives and like clockwork the guards open the big doors and we’re invited in. We already feel privileged. Special. Yet we feel positively blessed once Maria leads us inside and through the enormous ticket area, which I remember from my first visit years ago, would ordinarily be heaving with a sea of sticky sunburnt bodies. Instead, we’re still feeling refreshed from our post-flight showers and we can actually feel the cool breeze of the air-conditioning, which is impossible to detect during the day. Tonight the ordinarily crowded area is empty. We can hear our heels click on the floor and the echo of our guide’s voice bouncing off the marble.

First, Maria leads us to the vast Vatican courtyard with its perimeter posted with large explanatory signs used by tour guides to describe to their groups the highlights they should look out for as they make the way through the museum. Whether they’re able to actually see these or not once inside is another thing. There are usually masses of people shuffling through and the discomfort of the experience (definitely not recommended for claustrophobics) is a distraction in itself. But if you’re small like me and you get sandwiched between a group of tall Northern Europeans, you have no hope of noticing anything until you get to the Sistine Chapel where the numbers of visitors entering are controlled.

Tonight, however, we have none of these problems. As Maria leads us through the splendid marble-floored corridors, their ceilings dripping with candelabra and extravagantly decorated with vivid frescoes, everything gilded in gold, there’s nothing to get between us and the exquisite art on the walls and the splendid sculptures that line the halls – the Galleria dei Candelabri, the Galleria degli Arazzi (tapestries), the Galleria delle Carte Geografiche (maps) – my favourite.

Maria is well-versed on the collections and as she guides us through the museum she stops at important pieces, telling us the stories depicted in the paintings and those behind their creation, as well as sharing with us the widely-held interpretations and her own decoding of their meanings. We spend some time in the Raphael Rooms (among others), once the private apartments of Pope Julius II, where Maria admits demonstrates a knowledge of the paintings that’s astonishing. She’s a PhD holder who spent several years researching her thesis here in the Vatican libraries, and it shows. She is so engaging that we agree we’d probably do any tour if she was leading it.

The Sistine Chapel, just to ourselves

From the Raphael Rooms we finally make our way to the splendid Sistine Chapel, the one everyone has been holding their breath for. And we can hear them exhale as we enter.

Our small group in the Sistine Chapel - magical

The experience would have been overwhelming without Maria to take us through each painting and explain its significance. And actually, I did find it so on my first (guide-less) visit years ago, but that was also because of the crowds, and the lack of time. While numbers entering the Chapel are paced (unlike the rest of the Museum), there were still too many people in there for my liking and the time allowed was too short to appreciate the art properly. It was also surprisingly noisy. While speaking is meant to be forbidden, all I remember was the hum of guides talking in hushed voices to their groups.

This time, we’re alone in this dazzling space – just Terry and I, our little group, our guide, and our two guards. No throngs of noisy people to disturb us. And despite visiting before, for the first time I’m truly able to appreciate the splendour of the room and the sublime art painted on every surface of this exquisite place of worship. It’s simply breathtaking.

But what makes it so is that we’re alone. We can walk back and forth across the room, returning time and again to a particular piece of work (a Boticelli or Pinturicchio, a Perugino or Ghirlandaio) for a closer look if we want – something impossible to do during the day. We could lie on the floor on our backs and gaze up at Michelangelo’s marvellous ceiling frescoes. We could even waltz around the marble floors if we wanted to. (Well, maybe not – you better check that with Viator before taking your dancing shoes.) We also have all the time in the world. Well, not quite. But it feels that way, so that when it is time to go, we’re satisfied.

Just as we’re about to leave, we notice that Maria has tears in her eyes. Wiping her eyes, she confides: “I’m sorry, I get very emotional… telling these stories here in the Sistine Chapel. I’m very passionate about this place… this art…”

I look around at the group, and everyone seemed moved. And it wasn’t just the jet lag. The others had arrived just hours before from Australia.

“Was it worth it?” I ask them.

“Absolutely!”

“Definitely! This is a once-in-a-lifetime-experience.”

“Art is beauty is passion”.

-Lara Dunston

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Rome tours including top-rated Vatican tours where you can skip the lines altogether.

Things to do in Japan: #10, visit a temple in Kyoto

Editor’s Note: We asked Cheryn for her top things to do in Japan, Tokyo, Kyoto and beyond for travelers planning a trip to Japan. This is her reply.

#1 Sleep on the floor

Things to do in Japan: #1, sleep in a ‘ryokan’

Forgo the usual western hotel for a Japanese inn called a ryokan. While ryokans are often more expensive than hotels, and usually come with a few rules (a curfew, for example), they give you an intimate glimpse into Japanese customs: communal baths, peaceful gardens, the ability to wear a robe (yukata) in public any time of the day.

They also offer kaiseki (elaborate and highly traditional) meals and simple rooms with sliding rice-paper doors, shrines, tatami-matted floors, and futons (which are laid out on the floor each night). If sleeping on the floor doesn’t sound comfortable, have no fears: most ryokans provide padded quilting and cushions to soften the experience.

#2 Eat fish for breakfast

Things to do in Japan: #2, eat a traditional breakfast

Food is the most elemental expression of a culture, so while in Japan be sure to try a traditional Japanese breakfast (if you’re staying at a ryokan, it’s often included).

A traditional breakfast is served at a low table with cushioned seating on the floor and includes an assortment of small lacquer-ware bowls filled with grilled fish, a ‘rolled omelet’ called tamagoyaki, salad, rice, miso soup, fermented soy beans called natto, dried seaweed, and tea. Mmmm.

#3 Take a communal bath

Put fears of public nudity aside and dip into a steaming-hot pool at a communal bath. These are known as sento or onsen – the latter uses water from hot springs. Japanese traditionally bathe in the evening, but communal baths are open for several hours in the morning as well.

Things to do in Japan: #3, take a communal bath

Don’t worry about soap and shampoo – these items are always provided, along with moisturizing lotion, cotton swabs, and hair dryers. Just be sure to first wash yourself at a shower surrounding the bath, rinsing all the soap off your body before getting in.

Soaking in steaming hot water is relaxing, meditative, and a great way to immerse yourself in Japanese culture. Communal bathing is a tradition that goes all the way back to AD 700.

#4 Sit on the toilet (go ahead, the seats are warm)

My mother taught me to never sit on a public toilet seat, but in Japan, it’s hard to resist: The seats are warm. And the comforting feeling a warm toilet seat provides is hard to express… all I can offer is that the experience is a lasting and fond memory of my travels in Japan. Being on the cutting edge of technology and electronics as it is, Japan’s toilets plug into the wall, and often offer more services than just a warm seat. Many have something akin to an armrest with buttons that operate bidet-like features and fake flushing sounds for the shy.

#5 Ride a bullet train

Things to do in Japan: #5, ride a bullet train

With 12,400 miles of track, high-speed bullet trains called Shinkansen can take you pretty much anywhere you want in Japan at speeds close to 186 mph (300 km/h). The trip between Kyoto and Tokyo takes a mere 2 hours.

The trains are operated by the Japan Railways Group, who offers 7-day, 14-day, and 21-day rail passes for unlimited travel on all JR lines throughout Japan. It’s a great value if your itinerary includes a lot of destinations.

A pass is also convenient, and does away with the hassle of figuring out how to purchase tickets. Simply show your pass to the station attendant and you’re good to go. This is especially handy as the passes work for JR’s city metro lines as well. The only hitch is you must purchase a rail pass before arriving in Japan, so plan accordingly. Also note that you can organize a Mt Fuji day trip from Tokyo by bullet train over on the Viator site, including the popular Mt Fuji & Hakone from Tokyo (return by Bullet Train) trip.

#6 People watch in shopping districts

Things to do in Japan: #6, people watch

No matter what city you happen to be, there will be shopping districts. And that always makes for good people watching, especially in Japan where teenage fashion is so varied and extreme. Find a coffee shop or restaurant with a good view to while away a few hours. This is especially fun on a weekend in Tokyo’s Harajuku district, or any day of the week above Shibuya’s famous Hachiko crossing.

There’s a Starbucks with a great view of the crossing, with hundreds of pedestrians weaving in all directions at once in a mesmerizing stop-go-stop dance timed to the traffic lights. This type of crosswalk is called ‘scramble crossing’ and while there are about 300 in Japan, this one is the busiest, as it’s located right in front of the busiest train station in the world, Shibuya Station.

#7 Shop for toys

Even if your days of throwing tantrums in the toy store are long over, indulge your inner child and spend some time browsing the dense shelves of 6-floor toy stores. They sell everything from Miyazaki movie paraphernalia to scary Goth dolls, radio-controlled cars, and plastic figurines of just about any fictional character ever drawn or imagined. If the shops get too crowded, head over to an arcade and get yourself a cuddly stuffed creature from one of the many ‘claw’ game machines. And keep your eye out for vending machines that sell capsule toys–there’s one outside the Ryoan-ji Temple in Kyoto that dispenses Hello Kitty lunch bags for a couple of bucks.

#8 Check in to a ‘love hotel’

Things to do in Japan: #8, check into a love hotel

Take a ‘rest’ in a love hotel — so named for the activities of lovers that transpire within. Although some look ordinary and unassuming, they’re usually easy to spot.

Look for discreet windowless buildings or tacky structures with bright colors (think Vegas); neon signs that advertise amenities like themed rooms, costume play, and ‘rental goods’; and a backlit picture menu in the lobby.

Renting a room for a ‘rest’ will get you a few hours, whereas renting a room for a ‘stay’ is usually overnight, and only available in the late evening.

While the whole idea may sound kinky, a romp in a Love Hotel is apparently quite normal to the Japanese, who often have little privacy at home.

#9 Gaze upon Tokyo from the 52nd floor

If you’ve seen the film Lost in Translation, you’ll know the view from the “New York Bar” in the Park Hyatt Hotel. It’s spectacular, and well worth shelling out the 20-odd dollars for a cocktail. From 750 feet in the sky, the immensity of Tokyo is a sight to behold, especially when the city is lit up a night, full of red blinking lights that make it seem as if the city was breathing. And from here, you can actually see the curvature of the Earth.

Things to do in Japan: #9, check out the view over Tokyo

If you’re only interested in the view, it’s best to get here in the late afternoon/early evening to avoid the nightly $20 cover charge for live music (the cover charge starts at 8 pm). The bar also offers a casual dining menu, and includes a $60 hamburger.

#10 Zen out

A visit to Japan is not complete without visiting a temple. Kyoto alone has several thousand of them. Built with wood and simple in design, Japanese temples are quietly beautiful, usually set in the peaceful grounds of a garden. Kyoto is the place to go.

Spared destruction during WWII for its historical importance, today the city is home to countless temples and shrines considered national treasures. The nearby temple-laden city of Nara makes a great day trip from Kyoto, if only to visit the famous Todaiji Temple, the world’s largest wooden building.

–Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Research tours & things to do in Japan over on the Viator site, not to mention Tokyo tours, Mt Fuji day trips, and things to see & do in Kyoto. Also check out the complete set of photos from Cheryn’s trip to Japan.

Editor’s Note: If you miss Mr Squiggle as much as Jack clearly does, sign the petition to bring Mr Squiggle back!

For those of you born without eyes and ears and a television in Australia, or you just don’t know, Mr Squiggle was one of the longest-running children’s television programs on national (non-commercial) television in The Great Wide Brown Land.

He had a pencil for a nose and would use this to turn children’s “squiggles” (abstract doodles or drawings of nothing much really) into pictures that were often “upside down” (as the Black Board was fond of saying). The children’s squiggles were always on pink pieces of paper and the paper was always about A3. This would infer that adults may have been involved, but this is what is known in the business as a Red Herring. To get up to speed on the real facts watch this:

Travel the Mr Squiggle Way

How could any of this possibly be relevant to a travel blog? Well, Mr Squiggle was indeed a frequent flyer – he lived on the Moon, travelled by Rocket and was often taking “space walks”, especially in the middle of an episode, requiring him to always ask Miss Jane (his companion/co-host for the show) to “take my hand, Miss Jane, I’m going for a spacewalk”.

This would helpfully bring things back to Earth, avoiding the travel diversions that a spacewalk may bring, both for him and the show. We won’t go into the talking Steam-Shovel or the grumpy snail with a television on its back who also enjoyed creative freedom on this much loved children’s classic. Quite simply, Mr Squiggle rocked!

We could all learn quite a lot from Mr Squiggle – from holiday planning manoeuvres and trip ideas to places to go and things to be. Squiggles are probably best left for the notepad by the phone in the office or on that map on the wall and there are documented problems with noses and pencils (though probably like Mr Squiggle these are just stories). But for the discerning traveller there are no end of superlative destinations should you fancy a real space walk.

Moon on Earth: Coober Pedy

Coober Pedy, in South Australia, is the destination par excellence for the tripper on the go. It’s a squigglers delight with scarcely a straight line, person or road to be seen in this rambling desert oasis. Formerly home to 90% of the world’s opals (well they all got dug up and sold so it’s not their home anymore), Coober Pedy, like the Moon, can lay claim to an amazing diversity of people and wacky landscapes. There are over 50 nationalities that make up the population of 3,000 pillars of society and partly unstable people -some unbelievable percentage of them live in underground dugouts and the town is 700 kilometres from the next nearest nowhere. And one of the star ships from Star Wars is parked on the main street – fantastic you say!

A space ship from ‘Star Wars’ in Coober Pedy. No joke.

If you want real facts about this place then read a book, but I can truthfully tell you that the this area used to be part of the old inland sea in southern Australia – the amazing Breakaways are testament to that: hills of coloured stone mystically arranged out in the middle of a great flat expanse. The road out to Oodnadatta is regarded as travelling through a “Moon Plain”, which for you terrestrial folk is a gibber desert (tiny rocks, no monkeys).

Moon on Earth: Queenstown

Queenstown, in Tasmania, was once the site of way too much forestry and general digging-up-of-stuffness, and it’s now also regarded as a moonscape. My favourite. The people there are also a little odd, as you would expect: the fella at the petrol station told me about someone driving off with the nozzle of the petrol bowser still sticking out of his car – nice little fountain of fuel that was.

With or without a petrochemical disaster there has been talk of planting trees back up in the hills and making it look more like the rest of the planet. The local authorities said “No, it attracts the tourists the way it is”. So be attracted, find a talking snail and head down to Tasmania now! While you’re down on the island’s west coast you’ll see and hear enough things to make you think you are on another planet to make your trip more than worthwhile. Don’t swim there, it’s bloody cold.

Moon on Earth: Winton

I have mentioned Winton before so won’t carry on about it again. It’s great. It’s searing hot in summer. It’s easy to find a car-park all year round, which you can’t say about the Moon. And Nick Cave wrote a movie about it (The Proposition), which like the Moon means it has a dark side and infers it’s a lot like an episode of Mr Squiggle in more ways than one.

Moon on Earth: Iceland

Iceland. No trees, fantastic deserts, interesting customs and big coast (well the Moon is nearly all coast now that the water left) – does this sound like heaven to you? Then plan your next spacewalk to Iceland! Located near the end of the Earth, just go straight ahead at England and you can see Ultima Thule for yourself: lava flows, picturesque mountains and in winter scarcely any sunlight – it’s like the nearside and the dark side of the Moon rolled into one! And if its music that you want, because even Mr Squiggle likes to tap his toes to some bangtastic beats sometimes, then head up for the Airwaves Festival in October where you can see half of Iceland turn out for the local music festival to end them all. Talking steam-shovel anyone?

Mr Squiggles Travel Tip: Do it yourself!

If none of these moon-like suggestions are ringing any bells then try something different altogether. Stop wasting time with the “let’s go here, then there, then over there” approach to working out how to get around the island of your choice for your next holiday – why not give a pen to the youngest or most footloose member of the household, get ‘em to do a big fat squiggle on it, turn it upside down and then find some roads that match up? Brilliant!

You’ll be on your personal road to nowhere (or adventure kids-style) in no time flat – and like all good squiggles, filling in the lines between the dots should be done in god’s own time.

Should all this fail, a trip to Amsterdam could well deliver something close to Mr Squiggle’s idea of a space walk, but the location isn’t quite the moon, just another a smoky café. Hold my hand, Miss Jane!

–Jack Brown

So you’ve made it to Kuala Lumpur – the capital of Malaysia and one of the undiscovered gems in southeast Asia. Very few tourists pass through KL, as Kuala Lumpur is universally known. Most favor Thailand or Singapore for their southeast Asian adventures, but not you, because you are looking for something different. And we applaud you for that.

Kuala Lumpur: Get Cultured

Indiatown in Kuala Lumpur

The first stop to learn about Malaysian culture is the National Museum. After a thorough overview of Malaysian heritage, you may want to visit the Islamic Art Museum and the National Mosque (right across the street from the Islamic Art Museum). Next up: a stop at Merdeka Square, which can be easily combined with a visit to Masjid Jamek, the oldest mosque in KL. Take a break at the Petronas Towers (consider dinner at the Petronas Towers) and you’re well on your way to exploring the heart of Kuala Lumpur.

Museums are a fantastic way to experience KL. But even better to experience the diversity here is wandering the street markets and food stalls that dot the city. Taking a walk from Masjid Jamek up to Chinatown takes you through some of the most diverse areas of the city, where you can chat with the locals as they go about their daily business. Don’t be afraid to stroll down the side streets and take a look inside some of the many interesting and unique shops in this downtown area.

To see another side of KL, take a side trip to Indiatown (just north of Chinatown) – a very small, but authentic, section of the city where you can enjoy delicious Indian food from one of the many street vendors, have a sari or Punjabi suit made in a few days, or sing and dance along with the booming Bollywood music streaming from every shop.

Shopping in Kuala Lumpur

It’s a cliche, but there you have it: KL is a shopper’s paradise. Anything and everything is on sale in the city’s many malls, markets and street-side stalls. From the malls of Bukit Bintang to the splendor of Suria KLCC, you can shop in air-conditioned comfort for hours!

If you’re looking for local souvenirs and crafts head to the Central Market. There are plenty of bargains to be had in bustling Chinatown, which reminds me: in KL the key to a successful shopping experience is to bargain. Prices are never fixed here (unless you’re in an internationally-known chain store), so don’t hesitate to ask for “the best price” whether you’re in an air-conditioned mall, like Low Yat, or out on the street in Chinatown. No matter where you are, keep it light and fun, with a smile on your face – angry bargaining is seen as very rude in this part of the world. And don’t forget, it’s all part of the adventure!

An excellent place to start is Bukit Bintang (Star Hill in Bahasa Malayu), the heart of downtown KL. If you’re looking for the luxury shops, you can find everything from high-end designers like Gucci and Prada at the Star Hill Mall (next door to the Westin Hotel). The lower level also houses a great variety of gourmet restaurants.

Next door to the Star Hill Mall is Lot 10, one of the most popular stops for local fashionistas – great shoes and great bargains can be found in this slightly smaller, mid-priced shopping mall. Further down the street is Low Yat Plaza – electronics is the name of the game here, everything from cell phones to digital cameras to computers to MP3 players (but no clothes, shoes, glasses or books). Don’t forget to bargain hard, though, prices start in the stratosphere, but you can usually get some great deals if you’re willing to try a little banter with the shopkeepers.

Suria KLCC is Malaysia’s premiere shopping outlet – directly underneath the Petronas Towers. The ground level houses designer boutiques, while the upper levels showcase more mid-level shops. Suria has some great restaurants along with an international food court.

A Night Market in Kuala Lumpur

Another great shopping stop is the hustle and bustle of Chinatown, specifically Jalan Petaling. Knock-offs of just about everything can be found, along with more traditional Chinese items. Prices are aimed at well-heeled tourists, so don’t forget to negotiate for everything – start at around 1/3rd of the quoted price and work up from there.

If you’re still on your feet by the time the sun goes down, KL has a great selection of Pasar Malam (night markets) all around the city. The Sunday night market in Bangsar is one of the largest, and a frequent favorite of expats living in KL. Fresh fruits and vegetables, along with all sorts of clothes, accessories and souvenirs can be found at any one of these fabulous markets.

Top Places to Eat in Kuala Lumpur

Make sure you come to KL hungry because there is a lot to eat! From a budget meal on the street to a luxury, gourmet experience, there is something for everyone. One of the best places to explore KL’s culinary variety is Bangsar – just 5 minutes outside of the city center.

Those on a budget can feast on Indian, Chinese and Malay at any of the fantastic food stalls for a truly Malaysian dining experience. One of my favorite places to snack is Devi’s Corner in Bangsar (across from Bangsar Village) – start with some chicken satay from the vendor on the corner, add a delicious naan bread or roti Chennai, some Tandori chicken and some nasi goreng; wash it all down with some fresh fruit juice, and you have a meal fit for a king, but priced less than RM50 (US$14).

Devi’s Corner in Kuala Lumpur

For those with slightly deeper pockets, Bangsar is a diner’s delight – restaurants range from Spanish tapas to Italian to Middle Eastern to German. Some favorite expat hangouts are La Bodega for tapas and Sangria; Telawi Street Bistro for Western European fare and great desserts, and Haus Frankfurt for authentic German sausage and schnitzel.

Kuala Lumpur’s Nightlife

Despite being a Muslim country, Malaysia has its fair share of bars and clubs (though alcohol can be quite pricey). A popular stop for tourists is around the corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan P. Ramlee – an area of wall-to-wall bars, clubs and restaurants. Another hot spot, though slightly less noisy, is Bangsar – along with all those tasty restaurants, you can find trendy bars open until the early hours of the morning. A little farther afield is Sri Hartamas, a more local hangout, with a few small clubs and bars, catering more to the expat population.

-Kim Cofino

Planning a trip to Malaysia? Browse Viator’s list of tours and things to do in Kuala Lumpur, from a KL City Tour to dinner at the Petronas Towers to the Kuala Selangor Fireflies.

Photo: Shelley Ruelle

They say all roads lead to Rome, and hopefully the road you are on will eventually wind its way around to the Eternal City as well. A trip to Rome means coming face to face with both ancient history and modern-day European city life, as well as a pinch of some of the tastiest traditional Italian home cooking to fuel your explorations of this living museum.

Rome has defied definition throughout the ages: at once calm and chaotic, ancient and modern, metropolitan and provincial - the face that Rome shows you all depends on where you choose to look.

Day 1: Getting Oriented in Rome

There are so many different ways to orient yourself in Rome. One of the most popular is to hop on (and off) Rome’s open-top hop on bus tour, which takes in the heart of Rome in six languages. You can even get oriented in Rome on a Segway. Or see the city’s nocturnal side on a night-time tour. You can also see a lot of the city on foot: several Rome walking tours concentrate on different eras in Rome’s history, including its Classical period and its medieval and Renaissance years.

After your tour, head over to Piazza Venezia to ogle at the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, known to locals as the “typewriter” or “wedding cake” for its unusual and imposing design, which many a local will tell you is actually an eyesore! Next door, climb up the steps to Campidoglio (Capitol Hill) and admire Michelangelo’s design of the square. Then head behind Campidoglio to dig into Rome’s past at the Roman Forum.

Photo: Shelley Ruelle

Next up is the Colosseum, one of the most recognizable monuments in the world. For truly impressive views it’s enough to wander around the exterior, but if you really want to see the remains of what ancient Roman spectators saw, buy your tickets on Via di Gregorio VII (just behind the Arch of Constantine) in the Palatine ticket office. You’ll avoid any long lines that have formed in front of the Colosseum itself. Keep your eyes open for the roaming modern-day gladiators who might approach you for a picture - fine if you want to take one with them, but just know that it costs around €5!

In a city as old as Rome one would expect a few skeletons in the closet - or in this case, in the crypt. You can creep along the eerie underground Roman catacombs several levels below ground and see burial chambers dating back to the Imperial period. You can also peer into the dark heart of Rome on a ghosts and mystery tour (if you have kids, they will love this). A sight often overlooked but well worth a visit is the Domus Aurea, where you can see what remains of the extravagant palace of the Emperor Nero, near the Colosseum (reservations are required).

To keep you going through the day you’ll need nourishment - and luck you’re in one of the world’s great culinary capitals. Hit one of the offbeat districts like the Testaccio or the Jewish Ghetto. For dinner you can take in an evening tour and then dine at a typical local eatery, or cruise the Tiber River and marvel at Rome by night.

Or treat yourself to traditional Roman home-cooking at Da Enzo in Trastevere, on Via dei Vascellari 29 (tel. 06 581 83 55), a small trattoria where you’ll need to book to get a table for either the 8pm or 10pm seating. At Da Enzo it’s an authentic dining experience without high touristy prices, enjoying traditional Roman pasta dishes like amatriciana and carbonara, or the famous and hard-to-find carciofi alla giudea (fried artichoke hearts).

Day 2: Centro Storico - Rome’s Historic Center

Photo: Shelley Ruelle

Start your second day by heading over to the Pantheon — but before you go in, enjoy a traditional Italian cappuccino for breakfast at La Tazza D’Oro, thought by many Romans to serve the best coffee in the capital. If it’s hot, you might ask for their granita al caffè, a sort of coffee-flavored slushy with homemade whipped cream.

Now you’re ready to step inside the Pantheon and gaze up at that famous hole in the center known as the oculus, which if caught at the right moment lets in an artistic, hazy beam of light just perfect for your photo collection.

Of course, friends and family back home want a souvenir, so instead of any old plastic trinket, head over to Via del Corso for some of the busiest shopping in Rome. Then swing by the Trevi Fountain to throw in a coin or two (according to legend, this ensures you’ll return to Rome someday) then it’s back over to Via del Corso, taking a detour on Via dei Condotti, Rome’s most expensive shopping street. This leads directly to the famous Spanish Steps. If you like to walk, climb the steps and head over to Pincio Hill, where you’ll get a beautiful view of Rome, and then come back down at Piazza del Popolo.

Tired? Maybe just a little? Reward yourself by swinging back over towards the Pantheon area to grab a gelato on the way at Giolitti (Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40), one of Rome’s most famous gelaterie, where you can get a sidewalk table and watch the world go by (your tired feet will thank you!).

Day 2: Drinking & Dining
Just before dinner head over to Piazza Navona, picture-perfect in the evening glow, and indulge in the Italian tradition of an aperitivo (before-dinner drink) at the charming and elegant Bar della Pace (Via della Pace 5). Continue your people-watching at one of the ivy-shaded tables and then dine at Navona Notte (Via del Teatro Pace 44), a delicious neighborhood pizzeria.

Day 3: The Vatican, the World’s Smallest Country

Even though you won’t need your passport to visit 0.2-square mile Vatican City, for a 3-day visit of Rome it’s best to see the Vatican Museums on a guided tour to beat the lines. Along the way you’ll see Castel Sant’Angelo, a former papal refuge with Rome’s most stunning and artistic bridge. Its angels line the way across the river to the Castel. Once outside, trace the wall containing the popes’ secret passageway back to St Peter’s Square and then down Via della Conciliazione to St Peter’s Basilica. Here you can admire the inside and (for a small fee) climb to the top of the cupola (or pay a little extra to take the elevator if you’re worn out). The views from up here are like nothing else in the world, and you can see the Vatican Gardens below.

Got some energy left? Then walk up to the Janiculum Hill (or take a load off and take the 118 electric bus), where you can “ooh and ahh” at the Roman skyline panorama in front of the Fontanta dell’Acqua Paola, known to locals as the “Fontanone” (the big fountain). If you’re here in the summer you might catch an outdoor concert in the evening.

Coming back down into Trastevere, you can have a drink at Friends, a “molto trendy” bar in Piazza Trilussa. And if you want an elegant dinner in a casual atmosphere, meet Romeo over at Spirito di Vino, who, if you’re lucky, will give you a tour of his wine cellar, which sits at the street level of ancient Rome and houses over 1,000 different labels.

–Shelley Ruelle

Postscript: If you’re looking for more things to do, our complete list of Rome tours and activities should give you a good starting point. And when in Rome… there are some excellent day trips worth checking out. You could spend a whole day in Naples and Pompeii, explore the Tuscan villages of Assisi and Orvieto, or explore the Hellenophile splendor of Hadrian’s villa.

Here’s a quick quiz for the Eurocentric among you:

• Massive port? You’d probably think Rotterdam.
• Great galleries? You’d probably think Paris.
• Crazy red light district? Amsterdam perhaps?
• Plenty of space and shots of modern architecture amongst the works of old? Berlin.

How about… Hamburg. Not what springs to mind for most perhaps and the locals will probably tell you it rains here 300 days of the year. It probably does, too, maybe just for five minutes on some days and a more decent attempt on others - but in these days of climate change where can you think of that has “normal” weather anymore?

Hamburg’s Docklands: A little odd-looking

Give a place a bad reputation and it’ll keep those space-hogging travellers away - say it rains and it poured, so the saying could go. So why not look at Hamburg as that rocking city to the north of Deutschland, up between Kiel and Rostock and a gateway to Scandinavia, too. It’s the home of the infamous St Pauli soccer team, in-and-out again of the national league, a kult phenomenon, with its skull and crossbones insignia, bold left-wing politics and playing of AC/DC’s “Hells Bells” at the start of every home game. Not exactly the mark of a town that just sits on its hands while the world around it turns.

Quietly Hamburg manages to be the second-largest city in Germany - at around 1.8 million it’s bigger than Munich and nearly twice the size of Koln, which may come as a surprise as Hamburg doesn’t trumpet this from its roof tops. Straddling the mighty Elbe River, Hamburg is the second-largest port in Europe and the largest city not to be a capital. So apart from the stats, what is really there to brag about?

Hamburg: Quietly bizarre

Apart from the architectural boastings of the Netherlands, the docklands area of Hamburg - accessible from Landungsbrucken and easily visible from a ferry ride of the harbour or one of the Rundfarht (round trips) - offers a host of architectural eye-candy, and frequently in the least suspecting forms.

Hamburg’s Elbphilhamonie: Also a little odd-looking

The HafenCity (Port City) development offers a wealth of the quietly bizarre and overwhelming - like the new Science Centre, somewhat like a muscular and circular arrangement of duplo-blocks on steroids. Or the currently underway and “now famous before it is built” Elbphilharmonie, itself resembling a flaming crystal curtain, ablaze atop the existing and already distinctive Kaispeicher (an old harbourside storage warehouse).

These bold developments will at least garner an opinion for those that venture up to the north to see them. Even the septic tanks have an otherworldy feel to them with their patterned steel expansive orbs, yet this and the many others on show by the water, somehow preserve a warmth that is often absent in modern architectural muscle flexing.

One thing that hasn’t changed over the decades is the infamous Reeperbahn, the red-light district of the city by St Pauli; the host of churches, if that’s your thing; and a plethora or theatres and some 79 museums. There is a healthy choice of musical venues, of the classical, operatic and contemporary kind, though locals would argue there isn’t enough.

Let’s not forget, too, that the world may be a somewhat musically different place if it wasn’t for the Beatles spending those important years in Hamburg in the early 1960s, cutting their musical teeth at the Indra Club and the Top Ten Club among others.

Since the 1980s the city has also produced the Hamburger Schule (Hamburger School) notable in particular for the resurgence of interest in German-sung lyrics. Among this wave is the popular band from the mid-1990s Tocotronic, whose relaxed pop sensibilities continue to headline at festivals in the German summer.

Mark Rothko in Hamburg: It makes complete sense

If you visit Hamburg now until the 24 August, the overwhelmingly impressive Mark Rothko retrospective awaits at the Hamburger Kunsthalle. This is an encounter with art that only really speaks in person - quite a far cry from the clumsily sized reproductions of his works found in books and even on posters. There is no shortage of people ready to extol Rothko’s virtues as an artist and its been said that the his large-scale paintings pulse or resonate - the larger part of the collection being mostly over two metres and slowly worked, hand painted surfaces, which make them starkly unlike the postmodern machine- or screen-printed super-sized works found in many modern galleries.

Five of these pieces in a room do more than just pulse: from the corner of your eye they readily seem to flicker and demand your attention. More than just a rare chance to see 70 works on display, the Kunsthalle’s unique architecture allows a place to comfortably sit and contemplate these works over the top two floors of its relatively newer wing, overlooking a central courtyard that shifts and glows with the sun’s passing rays.

The highlight of this experience is the constantly changing, yet always sonorous, sound installation from the permanent collection in the basement floor below: six pairs of aluminium pipes, each with a speaker and microphone at opposite ends, triggered by motion sensors to record the movements of visitors in this room and play them back a minute later, with beautiful counter-point by sensor triggered, small pneumatic hammers that gently resonate the pipes.

This warmly responsive and dedicated space echoes throughout the Rothko exhibit, in some places almost resonating more strongly three floors higher than in the basement from where they issue; adding the perfect undertone to a major experience in an approach to a unique series of artworks. As you will find on the internet, the Rothko oeuvre might not look like much at a small size, but when the original works are approached, it becomes apparent that the focus is not the undulating block colours themselves , but the slow spaces in between. Perhaps there could be a reason why this exhibition has come to the city of Hamburg. A slow unfolding of a quietly kept secret.

-Robert Curgenven

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Hamburg tours and things to do in Munich and Berlin.

Editor’s Note: John Chilson blogs about mid-century Portland history and lost Oregon hotels and eateries at Lost Oregon. His previous post was about finding a decent donut in Portland.

The last time I stepped into any sort of boat with paddles was about 20 years ago at some private lake in San Diego that had paddle boats for rent. I also grew up near a beach and spent every day during summer sitting in the sand, watching swimmers from the shore, with the occasional dip in the water.

Meaning, I’m not a water person. I’d never really thought more about it since moving from San Diego to Boston a few years back. Sure, I enjoyed the beauty of the Charles River but from the distance of bridges connecting Boston to Cambridge.

Canoeing down the Willamette

Then we moved to Portland. The city is split by the Willamette River and has 10 bridges connecting the east side with the west. The river is omnipresent in Portland and other cities throughout the Willamette Valley.

The Willamette, all 187 miles of it, was an important transportation route throughout much of the early history of Oregon, furnishing a means of transporting timber and agricultural resources. To this day, the river is still used as shipping lanes that eventually connect to the Pacific Ocean. It’s still very important to Portland.

It all started with a used canoe

Anyhow, a few months ago my pal bought a used canoe on Craigslist and asked me if I wanted to paddle the Willamette. Sure. Sounded like a leisurely way to kill some time, drink a cold beverage and get some exercise. It was close to home, a short drive and was something that could be done during a weekday.

So, the day came and we loaded up the canoe onto the roof of his car and drove to one of the many landings along the Willamette. The landing we chose was the public boating ramp in Sellwood, near Oaks Bottom Park.

We parked, unloaded, and hoofed the heavy canoe down the grassy knoll and set it in the water. As soon as I sat down, grabbed a paddle and started to rock and wobble, I immediately realized that I loved being on the water. Go figure. After all these years of barely acknowledging the water surrounding Portland, it seemed so obvious now: I might like the water and being on it, instead of looking at it from the shore.

But first, we had to actually row and make the canoe move.

Our goal that day, since neither one of us had much paddling experience, was to go from the shore’s of Sellwood out to Ross Island, a natural island smack in the middle of the river. Ross Island has seen its share of abuse and much of it is used as a quarry. There’s talk of the owners giving some of the island back to the city as a nature preserve but that seems off the table for now. Much of the island is still wild, though. On our short trip we saw herons, fish and other wildlife – and a homeless man bathing on the shores of the river.

The Willamette: It probably won’t kill you

It should be mentioned that sections of the Willamette are very polluted – some parts are classified as a SuperFund site. Raw sewage gets dumped into the river when Portland gets heavy rainfall – but the city usually posts a bulletin warning people to stay out. I wouldn’t swim in it - ever. But if some water splashes on me I’m not going to worry about it. It probably won’t kill me.

I was impressed at how quickly we made it to Ross Island – especially since we had absolutely no control of the canoe. Instead of a straight shot, we did a bit of a zig-zagging and bumped up to the shore a couple of times. (My apologies to the young teenage couple making out on the shore – it wasn’t our intention to interrupt your, um, gropefest.)

The weekday evening meant that the river that day wasn’t too crowded. We encountered kayakers, speed boats and the occasional Jet Ski. Since we were unsure of our ability to keep a straight line we hugged the shore and stayed out of the main boat lane. In no time at all we glided through a split on the island. We were the only boaters there. Amazing to think that downtown Portland loomed just beyond us.

The sun was setting fast so we headed back to the landing, loaded up the canoe and called it a day. The entire trip, including a stop for dinner and even some fishing, was a bit under three hours.

If you’ve never canoed the Willamette and want to give it a go, it’s an easy trip. The water is very calm with a very small current. I’m as inexperienced as they come and did fine with the maneuvering. The wake from larger, engine-powered boats was a bit jarring at first but you get used to it pretty quickly. I’ll need to work on paddling more to get a good clip going, but for a beginner I was very pleased.

If you want to go the solo route, you can rent a kayak from the Portland Kayak Company across the river from Sellwood on Macadam. They also do guided tours of the same route to Ross Island. Once we get the control of the canoe down, we plan on going beyond Ross Island, under the Ross Island bridge and through the heart of downtown Portland. There’s also a public boat landing near my home that’s walking distance. Purchasing a kayak might be in the cards.

Once you float on the Willamette you’ll never see Portland the same way again.

-John Chilson

Celebrate the Portland Riverfest from August 28 - September 7, 2008. And if you’re planning a trip to the Pacific Northwest be sure to browse Viator’s things to do in Seattle and Vancouver, BC.

Quebec City looks really good for just having turned 400 on July 3rd. If I had to guess I would say the city is not a day over 250. In celebration Quebec City has plans all summer and fall to make year 400 a memorable one, so even though the official day has past, there’s still plenty of party left (including a concert by Quebec’s own Celine Dion and a special show by Cirque du Soliel). Check the official Quebec City site for the events still to come.

Commemorative beers at the parade’s end? Double check!

I had to be there for the big day, slogging up the old city’s hill in the pouring rain to the start of the commemorative parade. Mounties? Check. A period costumed Samuel Champlain (aka founder of the city)? Check. Commemorative beers at the parade’s end? Double check! Quebec’s finest beers are served up in the incredibly well preserved L’Oncle Antoine on St-Pierre, which has both a cave-like stone interior that’s at least a couple of centuries old, and outdoor umbrellas over their tables. After the parade and beers, we had about eight hours to kill until the nightly screening of The Image Mill, a very creative 40-minute montage of images depicting the history of Quebec projected onto the waterfront silos.

Rained out? No way! Quebec City’s parade.

And, tonight, the big fireworks show to follow. In keeping with the days’ theme we decided to explore the more historical aspects of Quebec City. Quebec started off as a colony of France. Eventually, in a big battle on the Plains of Abraham (still there, go see them), New France fell to the British, and became the Canada we know today. Though this happened a few hundred years ago, Quebec is not really into acknowledging it. In my book its still New France.

French is the dominant language, though they will happily accommodate English if you look too confused or start speaking English to them, French is just their first choice. And the food is decidedly French, charming bistros with classic French cuisine are on every block. In fact, I would argue that in this time of unfavorable Euro exchange rates that anyone who’s not near Europe and missing France should just head up to Montreal and Quebec City. I might get in trouble for saying so, but I’d say you get 85% of the experience (food, art, architecture, culture) for a fraction of the price.

Chateau Frontenac

Quebec City is a highly walkable city. One trudge up the hill, and its pretty flat after that (and downhill at the end). You can also get up the hill the lazy way, via funicular. Our route explored the battlements uphill, the shops along Rue Ste-Jean, and looped back around to the Plains of Abraham, the Citadel and followed the river boardwalk (the Promenade des Gouverneurs) down to the Victorian waterfront.

From there you get the classic view of Quebec City’s most famous building, the Chateau Frontenac. The Chateau Frontenac is now a Fairmont Hotel, but it is perfectly preserved. Jog over to Notre-Dame and before you know it you’re back at L’Oncle Antoine sipping another ale. If you’d rather not blaze your own trail, check out the highly rated Quebec City Walking Tour, the reviews say you won’t be disappointed. After another meal of hearty New France cuisine, we headed to the waterfront for the fireworks display. Before the event began a 20-something Quebec native hyped it to us as “Its going to be like, the best fireworks show, ever.”

And I have to say we were impressed. A solid thirty minutes of the biggest and brightest fireworks did not disappoint the crowd, and the evening was rounded out with a standing ovation from the waterfront. Joyeux Anniversaire Quebec!

– Kelly G

Heading to Quebec? Check out the things to do in Montreal or Quebec City. Or maybe you fancy a birds-eye view from a hot air balloon? Bon voyage!

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