All in all, a great evening.

Naive? Check. Narrow minded? Check.

Back at the hotel I Googled the restaurant to see what else I could learn about it, and was flabbergasted to read some of the nonsense that “reviewers” had posted after their own experiences there. Which got me to thinking: how often does a reviewer’s opinion have nothing to do with the establishment, and everything to do with the reviewer’s naivety, narrow-mindedness and lack of real-world experience?

Think before you complain (especially if you're American)

I started looking at reviews for some of the hotels and restaurants I’d enjoyed recently. And I got some pretty rude shocks. Hotels where I’d found everything to my liking were roundly derided as having poor service and lax standards, while my favoured restaurants were often seen as being second-rate.

Digging a little deeper, I found the problem was most evident in those cases where US-based reviewers had opined on international establishments. I found myself generally agreeing with the collective wisdom of Brits, Aussies and other domestic-market travellers, but was often sharply at odds with US reviews of my favourites in Europe and Asia.

Americans - stupid, ignorant and mean?

As I read more and more of these negative reviews I saw a pattern emerge. Now, you’d better brace yourself for some pretty outlandish statements coming up here; and none of them supported by any detailed research or opinion polling or any of that scientific stuff. But you decide. Here’s a summary of my thesis:

• Of all the major western, developed nations, America stands out as having a population that, in comparison to others, doesn’t really travel overseas that much
• Having said that, Americans love to share their travel experiences, filling sites like Viator, TripAdvisor, IgoUgo and others with literally millions of opinions about everything
• These two ingredients often combine into a potent mix that oozes stupidity, ignorance and, sad to say, mean-spiritedness

Here’s what I mean. A reviewer who says of a Moscow restaurant that “the servers were surly and unfriendly” clearly doesn’t realise that in Moscow the brusque manner of people in customer-facing roles is not seen as a negative by the locals; far from it, in fact. They would describe it as a “no nonsense, matter of fact” approach, and by comparison would have great disdain for the staff at your local TGIF, probably thinking them “transparently false.”

People, you hate too much

Sunday roast looks good to me, but not to everyone...

Examples like this abound. Suggesting that “activities are limited” on a Fijian island completely misses the point about Fiji — and many island destinations, where doing nothing is the whole idea!

Complaints about the size of bedrooms in London hotels fail completely to take into account the price of real estate in one of the world’s most crowded cities.

While negative statements about driving distances in Australia just demonstrate that a rudimentary knowledge of geography might be a good thing.

Read enough of these diatribes and you’ll suspect that many reviewers simply want domestic U.S. standards applied all over the world, so that no matter where they go they are greeted by a Gap-clad 20-something with a plastic smile and a menu… or a breakfast buffet that’s reminiscent of their favourite Sheraton. Sort of like the English tourists who stay in those little ‘British’ villages in Spain with ‘el Fish & Chips’ and ‘el Pub.’

Well, no. That’s not how it should be. Diversity is what makes the world an interesting place, and it’s the underlying reason why we travel. I want those Russian waiters to be off-hand; I want the French waiter to sneer at my wine order when he thinks it makes no sense; I want the Fijian check-in staff to hide out back when they see me coming; and I want the bell-hop in Las Vegas to treat me like the most important guest to check-in that day, even when I know I’m not.

The LAST thing I want is for the rest of the world to adopt false standards! Especially false American standards.

I think, therefore I complain

So please. Stop and think a little before posting that negative review. Was the service really bad, or just “different”? Was the food really too spicy, or is that just how it is in Northern India? If that beer was served warm, was there a reason why?

Travel’s an education. And from what I’ve been reading, there’s quite a few reviewers out there who could do with one of those.

-Rod Cuthbert

Editor’s note: Rod Cuthbert is the founder of Viator, Inc. You can read more of Rod’s musings here.

Each district is almost a city within itself, offering its own culture, lifestyle, and pacing. Now let us assume for a moment you’d like to see as much of this sprawling city as possible, but you’ve only budgeted yourself 4 days. Will this be possible?

Most would say, no. I say, of course!

Day 2 at Ueno Park, Tokyo

Day 1 in Tokyo: Narita to Shinjuku to Akihabara

You arrive in Narita airport, and immediately hop on the N’ex (the train that will take you all the way into the city proper). Go drop off your bags at your hotel, and then head right back out to the streets.

As this is your first night in Tokyo, you’ll want to head to Shinjuku, accessible by the JR Yamanote train line which circles all the key locations. When you get off the train you will see the eerie incandescent glow of neon lights illuminating the streets. As you continue walking the streets you’ll find yourself passing red light districts, noodle shops, and a host of other oddities.

Tokyo's Shinjuku district

Now head back to the train station and train over to Akihabara. This is Tokyo’s tech town. Anime and computer games meet real life here. There will be the loud ringing of pachinko machines, matched by the screams of shop keepers trying to get you to buy their wares.

Head into one of the many tall buildings with shops all the way from the ground floor to the tenth floor to browse manga, action figures, and (the higher you get) more and more adult related products.

Be sure to buy some capsule toys from the 500-yen machines. There really is no better Tokyo souvenir.

By this point you’re verging on passing out, but you have one stop left. Shibuya. As you exit the station look for the statue of a dog. This is a local meeting spot in Tokyo, and quite well known.

Before you lies the most populated scramble crossing in the world. Wait for the traffic to stop, and then get lost in the flood of humanity as you pass from one corner of the street to the other.

Meet you at the dog

Head over to a bar, and have a drink, eat some octopus and squid, keep them down, and tell the waitress how delicious they were, and then jump right back on the train and head to sleep. You deserve it.

Day 2 in Tokyo: Towers with a view

You’ve probably over slept. But that’s ok – you had a late night, and jet lag is still affecting you. Why it’s probably noon by now. Why not enjoy the afternoon at Ueno Park (easily accessible from the JR Yamanote line, once again). It’s beautiful, and full of street performers. If the mood strikes you, you can even visit the zoo.

After a few hours here to simply relax and take in Tokyo, head back to Shinjuku. This time you’ll explore the other half of the district. Gone will be the wild party from the night before, replaced by business towers, and corporate workers going about their lives.

You’ll want to see the Tokyo Tocho building (city hall). There is a free elevator ride up, up, and up. It’s one of the fastest in the world, so the ride will take no time at all, but it will deliver you to an observation area from which you can see just how far the city stretches. This is something that is impossible to appreciate from the ground. The view is simply astounding through the full-wall windows.

Now it’s back to Shibuya. You may want to walk through the green train car outside of the station which explains the importance of the dog statue. Become lost in the flow of human traffic across the crossing once more, and then head up the hill to Love Hotel Hill. This is where all the hotels that can be rented by the night, or by the hour, are located. They have such charming names as, ‘Hotel White Box.’

The busiest cross walk on the planet

At this point you’ll need to decide on how you want to spend your night. I would suggest, if you’re with people, going to a Karaoke bar and experiencing the Japanese tradition of two hour drink-all-you-can karaoke sessions.

But remember, at some point you’ll drag yourself home to sleep. The trains do stop at 12 midnight. And if you don’t make the last train you may want to explore the other Japanese tradition of paying 1,000 yen for an all-night internet café; passing out in the booth, you won’t be alone, as there will be others who missed the final train as well.

Day 3 in Tokyo: Old Japan

Now it’s time to visit Old Japan, which is quite similar to “tourist Japan” but pay that no mind. If you really want, get up early and check out the fish market. You may pay for this later. You should be at the market around 4am. (You can also book a walking tour of the fish market over on Viator.)

Next, head over to Asakusa. This is one of the most important stops you can make if you don’t want to find the smaller temples. You’ll find a pagoda, and a very large temple. Making your way towards this location is an experience in and of itself, passing through a laneway of little shops - try some Rose ice cream. Suddenly things open up, and you’ll watch people cover themselves in smoke to cleanse their bodies before heading any further. It’s a beautiful location, and, again, one not to be missed. (You can book a morning walking tour of Tokyo, including Asakusa, on the Viator site.)

Asakusa temple complex in Tokyo

Now head to Shinagawa on the Yamanote line, and make your way to the Imperial Palace. You can’t get inside, but you will be able to view the temples over an arched bridge. This popularized image is one that should be experienced first hand. A statue-filled garden also welcomes those who make the journey.

For those who love shopping Ginza cannot be beat. All the big brand name stores you’d expect to find in a world class city are located here, on this strip. There is also a Godzilla statue hidden here, standing little more than a foot tall. Try and find it, if you dare. Be sure not miss the public bathrooms in the Sony building with the heat up seats, and water spraying, auto opening features. Then head out of the Ritzy area, and treat yourself to a public squat toilet experience. What a contrast only a kilometer apart.

Now feel free to head to sleep. Your final day is coming up.

Day 4 in Tokyo: The end

Wake up early and, if it’s a Sunday, head to Harajuku. Walk through Yoyogi park, and then take a tour of Meji Jingu. Finally, as you leave the park, head over the bridge to see a great number of cosplayers, people dressed and dancing like Elvis, and a whole host of other unique sights.

Once you’ve taken in this Sunday-Only experience, head to the N’ex, and rush back to the airport.

Wow. Tokyo in four days. See, it can be done.

-Michael Barltrop

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Tokyo tours & things to do in Tokyo, from Tokyo walking tours to Tokyo day trips and day tours.

Vietnamese coffee

Editor’s Note: I originally posted these Vietnam itineraries in 2007, to answer the many questions I was fielding from friends about the best places to go in Vietnam. Over the past two years dozens of travelers have asked some great questions about what to see and do in Vietnam, which I wanted to share. If you have a question, just leave a comment and I’ll do my best to reply.

Let’s start with the coffee. Because in Vietnam coffee is more than just a drink. It doesn’t come venti or frappuccinoed or with whipped cream. And it definitely does not cost $3.75 a shot. No, coffee in Vietnam is thick, cheap and super-sweet. And it is beautiful.

Good coffee is just one of the many happy discoveries I had in Vietnam. It was my first trip, and as an American I had some baggage about visiting. You know, the war and all. The Vietnam War (or as it’s called locally, the American War). Telling friends that I was planning a trip to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) generated a shock-surprise-fear response that I was not prepared for, at least from people old enough to remember the nightly news reports from the battlefront.

So I was half-expecting a chilly response when I arrived. After all more than 400,000 Vietnamese civilians were killed in the war, not to mention the impact on the land itself (ever heard of Agent Orange?). There were plenty of reasons for the Vietnamese not to like Americans.

Crazy crowded streets of Hanoi. BYO motorbike.

Yet the reality could not have been more different. No matter where I went, no matter who I met, the people of Vietnam were unfailingly polite, friendly, approachable. I am not just saying that, either. I’ve been to dozens of countries, and there is no contest here: by a mile the Vietnamese win the awards for “most friendly” and “most gracious.”

The other great surprise for me in Vietnam was the food. Fresh, simple and full of flavor. Since my trip I’ve become addicted to pho (rice noodle soup), which is delicious for breakfast or dinner; gao nep (sticky rice), which is suitable for the vegetarians among us; and nem (spring rolls), made with rice paper, minced pork, crab, mushrooms and extra-fine noodles called vermicelli.

Scott learns to cook in Hoi An

I spent almost 3 weeks in Vietnam, traveling south to north from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. My Vietnam itinerary is below, focusing on the best places to see in Vietnam in case you’re planning a trip of your own. If you have questions about Vietnam, leave a reply and I’ll do my best to field an answer for you. You can also see some of my photos from Vietnam over on the Viator flickr site.

• Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City (direct flight)
• 2 days in Ho Chi Minh City. On this last trip I didn’t get a chance to visit the Mekong Delta, but wish I had. It’s a beautiful spot and I always love exploring it. The city itself is worth exploring. The American War museum is first-rate. Plenty of restaurants, bars and clubs have opened in the past few years. I’ve heard some people say that Ho Chi Minh City has the best nightlife in Southeast Asia.
• 3 days in Mui Ne, a postcard-perfect beach village, very quiet and laid-back. Definitely not as busy as Na Trang. I prefer the calm of Mui Ne to the bustle of Na Trang.
• The it was off to Hoi An (via an overnight train from Na Trang to Danang). Hoi An was my second-favorite spot in Vietnam. The center of Hoi An is a well-preserved French Colonial relic, with limited access to cars. For me the place was heaven. Hoi An has cafes, street markets, riverside restaurants, and the best hand-tailored clothes in Vietnam. I took a cooking class (you can book Vietnam cooking classes over on Viator) and learned how to make fish wrapped in banana leaves, squid salad and homemade dumplings. For less than US$100 I also had 7 shirts, 3 pants, 1 jacket and 1 suit made to order. The quality is not perfect. But who cares at these prices. One tip: If you own a shirt that you like or that fits you especially well, bring it! The local tailors can make copies in a dozen different fabrics.


Sightseeing boats on Halong Bay, Vietnam

• We took a short flight from Danang to Hanoi, my favorite place in all of Vietnam. I don’t know what it is about Hanoi that I clicked with. Maybe the jam-packed streets, packed sardine-style with bicycles and mopeds, which you cross at your own risk. Or maybe the tree-lined streets bursting with all manner of stores, shops, workshops, alleyways, impromptu temples, sidewalk restaurants.
• We also did a trip to Halong Bay, which is definitely worth doing. If the weather is hot, consider doing an overnight or two-night trip so you can swim and relax and take in the scenery. The setting is absolutely unique, with rounded rock formations as far as the eye can see, often shrouded in mist that gives Halong Bay an otherworldly feel.
• Last but not least, it was a flight back to Bangkok. While you’re there, get a message at the Wat Po Traditional Thai Massage School (on the grounds of Wat Po itself, in the heart of Bangkok). It costs something like $5 for 30 minutes. Was it the best massage I’ve ever had? Yup. And it’s enough to make me plan another trip to Vietnam. Via Thailand, of course.

-Scott McNeely

Planning a trip? Browse Viators tours and things to do in Vietnam, things to do in Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh City and Mekong Delta tours. Also check out Vietnam reviews and tour reviews over on the Viator website.

Happy Kids - Happy Holidays!

Sydney, Australia

Sydney has an outdoor culture that children, by and large, adore. The beaches are an obvious starting point – those on the harbour itself are safer swimming spots for the younger ones, while the surf beaches along the coast are brilliant for the more adventurous tykes. It’s even possible to do learn-to-surf courses at Bondi Beach. But the outdoor ethos stretches beyond the beaches. Centennial Park is another fantastic place to hang out, whether it’s for playing park football or cricket, having a picnic or barbecue or going to the open air cinema in the summer. There’s also the chance to hire rollerblades or go horse-riding around the park.
And once you throw in boat rides on the harbour and the street entertainers at Circular Quay and Darling Harbour, Sydney is obviously something of a family tourism heaven.

Feeding the Kangaroos at Taronga Zoo, Sydney

But then comes the trump card – Australian wildlife. Sydney is crammed with excellent animal experiences where kids (and big kids) can get close to koalas, kangaroos and other Australian fauna. The best two are arguably Taronga Zoo and the Featherdale Wildlife Park. The former is arguably the best located zoo in the world, with superb harbour views. It also has some excellent keeper-guided behind-the-scenes tours. Featherdale is a little more rough and ready, but is brilliant for getting photos with koalas and being able to hand-feed kangaroos.

Singapore

Another city with awesome animal attractions is Singapore. Singapore Zoo pioneered the “open” concept, where animals are in full view rather than cages, and kept away from visitors by well concealed moats that are below eye level. Next to it is the Night Safari, a rather novel zoo concept. Essentially it offers the opportunity to stroll (or be driven) around a jungle at night, while the nocturnal creatures are at their most active. They’re all subtly lit up and animals from various different areas of the world are represented.

Singapore is also surprisingly green – there are some massive parks and nature reserves for children to explore. Apparently, Rio De Janeiro is the only other city in the world to have rainforest within the city boundaries. For indoor activities, the Science Centre is an excellent bet. It’s full of entrancing technology, has plenty of buttons for inquisitive little ones to press and goes for a very hands-on approach.

Copenhagen, Denmark

The Danish capital has long been billed as a fairytale city – mainly due to its links with Hans Christian Andersen – and it’s unsurprising that kids seem to love it so much. For lovers of Andersen’s stories, there’s the famous Little Mermaid statue, Hans-themed walking trails and a dedicated museum. But there’s more to Copenhagen than ugly ducklings and the Emperor’s New Clothes. For a start it’s home to the two oldest theme parks in the world.

Amusement park in Bakken, Copenhagen

They’re not Disneyfied affairs, and still have buckets of charm. The oldest is just to the north of the city and is part of an enormous park – Dyrebakken. Dyrebakken was formerly a royal hunting ground, but it has now been turned into one of the world’s greatest parks – families swarm to it when the sun comes out.

Part of the great swathe of green is Bakken, which has plenty of quaintly old-fashioned rides amongst lots of restaurants and cafés. The second oldest amusement park is right in Copenhagen city centre. Tivoli is pretty much opposite the main train station and is an action-packed funland mixed in with beautiful gardens. The rides are generally a bit more up-to-date (and scarier) than those at Bakken, and it’s quite easy to while away the day in Tivoli’s grounds.

Los Angeles

Unsurprisingly, the movie capital of the world has plenty to keep the little ones entertained. An obligatory first stop has to be Hollywood, where the youngsters can hunt down the stars of their heroes on the Walk of Fame and watch the fancy dress circus outside Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. The Hollywood Museum and celebrity homes tours are generally winners as well.

Then there are the movie studios. Films are still made at the likes of Warner Brothers and Universal Studios, but most of the visitors aren’t part of movie crews any more. The big studio complexes have morphed over the years to become theme parks in all but name – and even for theme park cynics, they are genuinely superb. Universal Studios, for example, has plenty of film-themed rides and shows, but the highlight is the backlot tour. This takes guests around where the movie magic is made and is educational as well as entertaining. It’s interspersed with some big action movie set pieces, such as a village flooding or a helicopter crashing.

LA also has beaches and plenty of odd attractions such as the La Brea tar pits, where fossils of mammoths and more have been trapped for thousands of years.

London

There’s so much to do in London that it’s virtually impossible to be bored. Many of the standard kiddy favourites are present and correct – London Zoo is one of the best in the world, boat trips down the River Thames are regular and affordable, and there are some fabulous open spaces such as Hyde Park and Regent Park.

London Natural History Museum

If you have to pick one area, then South Kensington is a sure fire winner. It’s home to two of the world’s most child-friendly museums. The Science Museum has lots of interactive exhibits about how our world works, and many displays with a wow factor. Even better is the Natural History Museum, which is like a zoo but with stuffed animals. The massive whale and dinosaur skeletons are always popular, while the hands-on creepy crawly exhibits should delight the sort of young boy that revels in pulling the legs off spiders.

These kids will also enjoy the gruesome tales on offer at the Tower of London and London Dungeon. There are some rather interesting tours too – such as one of Harry Potter filming locations by black taxi, or a land-and-water trip in an amphibious ‘duck’ vehicle.

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Sydney tours & things to do in Sydney for tips and itineraries in Australia, and check Singapore tours & sightseeing in Singapore for local trips. Going to Europe? Our Copenhagen activities and our London tours & attractions will help you out choosing the best tours. Or be the star of the day with one of Viator’s Los Angeles trips & activities.

Kuala Lumpur: Get Cultured

Indiatown in Kuala Lumpur

The first stop to learn about Malaysian culture is the National Museum. After a thorough overview of Malaysian heritage, you may want to visit the Islamic Art Museum and the National Mosque (right across the street from the Islamic Art Museum). Next up: a stop at Merdeka Square, which can be easily combined with a visit to Masjid Jamek, the oldest mosque in KL. Take a break at the Petronas Towers (consider dinner at the Petronas Towers) and you’re well on your way to exploring the heart of Kuala Lumpur.

Museums are a fantastic way to experience KL. But even better to experience the diversity here is wandering the street markets and food stalls that dot the city. Taking a walk from Masjid Jamek up to Chinatown takes you through some of the most diverse areas of the city, where you can chat with the locals as they go about their daily business. Don’t be afraid to stroll down the side streets and take a look inside some of the many interesting and unique shops in this downtown area.

To see another side of KL, take a side trip to Indiatown (just north of Chinatown) – a very small, but authentic, section of the city where you can enjoy delicious Indian food from one of the many street vendors, have a sari or Punjabi suit made in a few days, or sing and dance along with the booming Bollywood music streaming from every shop.

Shopping in Kuala Lumpur

It’s a cliche, but there you have it: KL is a shopper’s paradise. Anything and everything is on sale in the city’s many malls, markets and street-side stalls. From the malls of Bukit Bintang to the splendor of Suria KLCC, you can shop in air-conditioned comfort for hours!

If you’re looking for local souvenirs and crafts head to the Central Market. There are plenty of bargains to be had in bustling Chinatown, which reminds me: in KL the key to a successful shopping experience is to bargain. Prices are never fixed here (unless you’re in an internationally-known chain store), so don’t hesitate to ask for “the best price” whether you’re in an air-conditioned mall, like Low Yat, or out on the street in Chinatown. No matter where you are, keep it light and fun, with a smile on your face – angry bargaining is seen as very rude in this part of the world. And don’t forget, it’s all part of the adventure!

An excellent place to start is Bukit Bintang (Star Hill in Bahasa Malayu), the heart of downtown KL. If you’re looking for the luxury shops, you can find everything from high-end designers like Gucci and Prada at the Star Hill Mall (next door to the Westin Hotel). The lower level also houses a great variety of gourmet restaurants.

Next door to the Star Hill Mall is Lot 10, one of the most popular stops for local fashionistas – great shoes and great bargains can be found in this slightly smaller, mid-priced shopping mall. Further down the street is Low Yat Plaza – electronics is the name of the game here, everything from cell phones to digital cameras to computers to MP3 players (but no clothes, shoes, glasses or books). Don’t forget to bargain hard, though, prices start in the stratosphere, but you can usually get some great deals if you’re willing to try a little banter with the shopkeepers.

Suria KLCC is Malaysia’s premiere shopping outlet – directly underneath the Petronas Towers. The ground level houses designer boutiques, while the upper levels showcase more mid-level shops. Suria has some great restaurants along with an international food court.

Night Market in Kuala Lumpur

Another great shopping stop is the hustle and bustle of Chinatown, specifically Jalan Petaling. Knock-offs of just about everything can be found, along with more traditional Chinese items. Prices are aimed at well-heeled tourists, so don’t forget to negotiate for everything – start at around 1/3rd of the quoted price and work up from there.

If you’re still on your feet by the time the sun goes down, KL has a great selection of Pasar Malam (night markets) all around the city. The Sunday night market in Bangsar is one of the largest, and a frequent favorite of expats living in KL. Fresh fruits and vegetables, along with all sorts of clothes, accessories and souvenirs can be found at any one of these fabulous markets.

Top Places to Eat in Kuala Lumpur

Make sure you come to KL hungry because there is a lot to eat! From a budget meal on the street to a luxury, gourmet experience, there is something for everyone. One of the best places to explore KL’s culinary variety is Bangsar – just 5 minutes outside of the city center.

Those on a budget can feast on Indian, Chinese and Malay at any of the fantastic food stalls for a truly Malaysian dining experience. One of my favorite places to snack is Devi’s Corner in Bangsar (across from Bangsar Village) – start with some chicken satay from the vendor on the corner, add a delicious naan bread or roti Chennai, some Tandori chicken and some nasi goreng; wash it all down with some fresh fruit juice, and you have a meal fit for a king, but priced less than RM50 (US$14).

Devi's Corner, Kuala Lumpur

For those with slightly deeper pockets, Bangsar is a diner’s delight – restaurants range from Spanish tapas to Italian to Middle Eastern to German. Some favorite expat hangouts are La Bodega for tapas and Sangria; Telawi Street Bistro for Western European fare and great desserts, and Haus Frankfurt for authentic German sausage and schnitzel.

Kuala Lumpur’s Nightlife

Despite being a Muslim country, Malaysia has its fair share of bars and clubs (though alcohol can be quite pricey). A popular stop for tourists is around the corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan P. Ramlee – an area of wall-to-wall bars, clubs and restaurants. Another hot spot, though slightly less noisy, is Bangsar – along with all those tasty restaurants, you can find trendy bars open until the early hours of the morning. A little farther afield is Sri Hartamas, a more local hangout, with a few small clubs and bars, catering more to the expat population.

-Kim Cofino

Planning a trip to Malaysia? Browse Viator’s list of tours and things to do in Kuala Lumpur, from a private KL City Tour to the Batu Caves to the Kuala Selangor Fireflies.

You could never hope to see it all in one trip, so the experience most travelers have is that they want to come back for more, and they do. Thailand enjoys great loyalty from its visitors, who know that each part of the country offers its own pleasures, a fact I discovered for myself when I visited Phuket recently.

Phuket, don’t leave with a bad taste in your mouth

Phuket - now there’s a place, as they say in the classics! From the sleazy bars to the fabulous restaurants, from the crowded beaches to the quiet ones, from $20 a night hostels to 5-star resorts, Phuket actually does have it all. But my guess is that some visitors check out the downtown scene on their first day and get the wrong impression altogether, and maybe leave with a bad taste in their mouth.

Cruising from Phuket to Phang Nga Bay

That would be sad, because that slice of the nightlife (bar girls, a la Patpong Road in Bangkok) really isn’t important to Phuket at all; it’s just something that follows the crowds in Thailand. It’s easy to get away from the downtown scene, or not visit it at all, as you’ll find plenty of markets, restaurants and everything else you need outside the downtown area.

The beach at Phang Nga Bay

I took one of Viator’s most popular activities in Thailand, the Phang Nga Bay Eco Tour, and understood right away why people keep coming back to this area. No sooner have you left the dock than you see the strange islands of the Andaman Sea in the distance, like nothing you’ve seen before. As you approach… well, rather than trying to describe it in words, take a look at the brief Youtube video we put together on the tour. And check out Phuket next time you are in Thailand; you won’t regret it!

-Rod Cuthbert

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Phuket, from Phuket day trips to Phuket cruises & sailing tours.

Things to do in Japan: #10, visit a temple

Editor’s Note: We asked Cheryn for her top things to do in Japan, Tokyo, Kyoto and beyond for travelers planning a trip to Japan. This is her reply, updated with the latest links and info.

#1 Sleep on the floor

Things to do in Japan: #1, sleep in a 'ryokan'

Forgo the usual western hotel for a Japanese inn called a ryokan. While ryokans are often more expensive than hotels, and usually come with a few rules (a curfew, for example), they give you an intimate glimpse into Japanese customs: communal baths, peaceful gardens, the ability to wear a robe (yukata) in public any time of the day.

They also offer kaiseki (elaborate and highly traditional) meals and simple rooms with sliding rice-paper doors, shrines, tatami-matted floors, and futons (which are laid out on the floor each night). If sleeping on the floor doesn’t sound comfortable, have no fears: most ryokans provide padded quilting and cushions to soften the experience.

#2 Eat fish for breakfast

Things to do in Japan: #2, eat a traditional breakfast

Food is the most elemental expression of a culture, so while in Japan be sure to try a traditional Japanese breakfast (if you’re staying at a ryokan, it’s often included).

A traditional breakfast is served at a low table with cushioned seating on the floor and includes an assortment of small lacquer-ware bowls filled with grilled fish, a ‘rolled omelet’ called tamagoyaki, salad, rice, miso soup, fermented soy beans called natto, dried seaweed, and tea. Mmmm.

#3 Take a communal bath

Put fears of public nudity aside and dip into a steaming-hot pool at a communal bath. These are known as sento or onsen – the latter uses water from hot springs. Japanese traditionally bathe in the evening, but communal baths are open for several hours in the morning as well.

Things to do in Japan: #3, take a communal bath

Don’t worry about soap and shampoo – these items are always provided, along with moisturizing lotion, cotton swabs, and hair dryers. Just be sure to first wash yourself at a shower surrounding the bath, rinsing all the soap off your body before getting in.

Soaking in steaming hot water is relaxing, meditative, and a great way to immerse yourself in Japanese culture. Communal bathing is a tradition that goes all the way back to AD 700.

#4 Sit on the toilet (go ahead, the seats are warm)

My mother taught me to never sit on a public toilet seat, but in Japan, it’s hard to resist: The seats are warm. And the comforting feeling a warm toilet seat provides is hard to express… all I can offer is that the experience is a lasting and fond memory of my travels in Japan. Being on the cutting edge of technology and electronics as it is, Japan’s toilets plug into the wall, and often offer more services than just a warm seat. Many have something akin to an armrest with buttons that operate bidet-like features and fake flushing sounds for the shy.

#5 Ride a bullet train

Things to do in Japan: #5, ride a bullet train

With 12,400 miles of track, high-speed bullet trains called Shinkansen can take you pretty much anywhere you want in Japan at speeds close to 186 mph (300 km/h). The trip between Kyoto and Tokyo takes a mere 2 hours.

The trains are operated by the Japan Railways Group, who offers 7-day, 14-day, and 21-day rail passes for unlimited travel on all JR lines throughout Japan. It’s a great value if your itinerary includes a lot of destinations.

A pass is also convenient, and does away with the hassle of figuring out how to purchase tickets. Simply show your pass to the station attendant and you’re good to go. This is especially handy as the passes work for JR’s city metro lines as well. The only hitch is you must purchase a rail pass before arriving in Japan, so plan accordingly. Also note that you can organize a Mt Fuji day trip from Tokyo by bullet train over on the Viator site, including the popular Mt Fuji & Hakone from Tokyo (return by Bullet Train) trip.

#6 People watch in shopping districts

Things to do in Japan: #6, people watch

No matter what city you happen to be, there will be shopping districts. And that always makes for good people watching, especially in Japan where teenage fashion is so varied and extreme. Find a coffee shop or restaurant with a good view to while away a few hours. This is especially fun on a weekend in Tokyo’s Harajuku district, or any day of the week above Shibuya’s famous Hachiko crossing.

There’s a Starbucks with a great view of the crossing, with hundreds of pedestrians weaving in all directions at once in a mesmerizing stop-go-stop dance timed to the traffic lights. This type of crosswalk is called ‘scramble crossing’ and while there are about 300 in Japan, this one is the busiest, as it’s located right in front of the busiest train station in the world, Shibuya Station.

#7 Shop for toys

Even if your days of throwing tantrums in the toy store are long over, indulge your inner child and spend some time browsing the dense shelves of 6-floor toy stores. They sell everything from Miyazaki movie paraphernalia to scary Goth dolls, radio-controlled cars, and plastic figurines of just about any fictional character ever drawn or imagined. If the shops get too crowded, head over to an arcade and get yourself a cuddly stuffed creature from one of the many ‘claw’ game machines. And keep your eye out for vending machines that sell capsule toys–there’s one outside the Ryoan-ji Temple in Kyoto that dispenses Hello Kitty lunch bags for a couple of bucks.

#8 Check in to a ‘love hotel’

Things to do in Japan: #8, check into a love hotel

Take a ‘rest’ in a love hotel — so named for the activities of lovers that transpire within. Although some look ordinary and unassuming, they’re usually easy to spot.

Look for discreet windowless buildings or tacky structures with bright colors (think Vegas); neon signs that advertise amenities like themed rooms, costume play, and ‘rental goods’; and a backlit picture menu in the lobby.

Renting a room for a ‘rest’ will get you a few hours, whereas renting a room for a ‘stay’ is usually overnight, and only available in the late evening.

While the whole idea may sound kinky, a romp in a Love Hotel is apparently quite normal to the Japanese, who often have little privacy at home.

#9 Gaze upon Tokyo from the 52nd floor

If you’ve seen the film Lost in Translation, you’ll know the view from the “New York Bar” in Tokyo’s Park Hyatt Hotel. It’s spectacular, and well worth shelling out the 20-odd dollars for a cocktail. From 750 feet in the sky, the immensity of Tokyo is a sight to behold, especially when the city is lit up a night, full of red blinking lights that make it seem as if the city was breathing. And from here, you can actually see the curvature of the Earth.

Things to do in Japan: #9, check out the view over Tokyo

If you’re only interested in the view, it’s best to get here in the late afternoon/early evening to avoid the nightly $20 cover charge for live music (the cover charge starts at 8 pm). The bar also offers a casual dining menu, and includes a $60 hamburger.

#10 Zen out

A visit to Japan is not complete without visiting a temple. Kyoto alone has several thousand of them. Built with wood and simple in design, Japanese temples are quietly beautiful, usually set in the peaceful grounds of a garden. Kyoto is the place to go.

Spared destruction during WWII for its historical importance, today the city is home to countless temples and shrines considered national treasures. The nearby temple-laden city of Nara makes a great day trip from Kyoto, if only to visit the famous Todaiji Temple, the world’s largest wooden building.

-Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Research tours & things to do in Japan over on the Viator site, not to mention Tokyo tours, Mt Fuji day trips, and things to see & do in Kyoto. Also check out the complete set of photos from Cheryn’s trip to Japan.

Maiko (apprentice geisha)

Arriving at my ryokan in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto, a commotion of tourists near the hotel entrance erupted as maiko (apprentice geisha) stopped in front of a silvery-leafed tree to pose for a photographer. Given my location near Gion, famed for the ochaya, or teahouses, where geisha entertain affluent clientele, the sight of maiko became a common experience during the week I spent in Kyoto.

At night I would see them on their way to appointments, balanced high on wooden clogs called okobo, kimono shifting gracefully with each tiny step upon flagstone streets lit by old-fashioned lamps–a singular image that sums up the elegance and romance of the city. Kyoto offers a glimpse into the past of Japan, a city of rich tradition and cultural importance.

It’s been said that you must dig to find the historical side of Kyoto, with its layers of the past nestled here and there among bustling city streets and tall modern buildings. But for me, it felt like the other way around. There are several thousand temples, hundreds of Shinto shrines, pagodas, Zen gardens, and numerous historical districts to be explored.

It’s possible to get a taste of the city as a day trip from Tokyo – the trip by shinkansen, or bullet train, is only a few hours. But for those with more time in Japan, three days is the suggested minimum by guidebooks. Considering the traveler’s affliction known as ‘temple fatigue’, for some three days might just be enough. With more time, day trips from Kyoto to more far-flung destinations are possible, thanks to Japan Railways, a network of track and speeding trains that connect cities all over Japan.

Kyoto Day 1: Historic Neighborhoods

Get a feeling for the city by exploring the historic neighborhoods in eastern Kyoto, starting with Higashiyam and then moving onto Pontocho Alley.

Higashiyama & Gion

Higashiyama

Higashiyama translates to ‘Eastern Mountain District’, a literal description of its location on the East side of the Kamo River, at the base of the Higashiyama mountain rage. It’s perfect strolling territory, with narrow stone-paved lanes that wind their way through tidy, aged neighborhoods; spires of pagodas that peak above silvery rooftops and the crisscrossing patterns of electrical lines; and temples and shrines that intermingle with modern day shops and homes–a sight that becomes familiar at every turn, but still manages to surprise.

Begin with the Yasaka Shrine at the end of Shijo-Dori, and then make your way down the quaint Ishibe-Koji Lane, past traditional inns and teahouses. Take the stairs up to the Kodai-ji Temple and gaze upon the rooftops of Kyoto from the hilltop. Say a prayer to the giant Buddha called the Ryozen Kannon on your decent towards the Yasaka Pagoda and Sannenzaka Slope, known for its jumble of shops selling traditional crafts and souvenirs. Top it off with a rickshaw tour, powered by men in black tights.

Head over to the heart of neighboring Gion, Japan’s most widely known geisha district. Called geiko in Kyoto rather than geisha, the term means ‘a woman of art’ – geiko are entertainers, trained in conversation, music, and dance. As Gion is an entertainment district, it’s quiet during daylight hours, and offers pleasant strolls along streets lined with old-style houses and traditional teahouses, as well as exclusive restaurants.

Kyoto’s Pontocho Alley

On the other side of the Kamo River, Pontocho Alley comes alive in the evening, when the restaurants and bars that line the narrow lane and branching streets open for business. Another place to spot geiko on their way to and from appointments at traditional ochaya, Pontocho Alley began as a gay quarter and remains a lively entertainment district best experienced at the dinner hour and beyond.

Kyoto Day 2: Temples & Gardens

While Kyoto possesses too many temples to name or visit during the average traveler’s stay, several temples in the Northwest area of the city provide plenty of peace and Zen for any spiritual diet, and rank among my favorites.

Ryoan-ji Temple

Best known for its Zen rock garden, the ‘dry landscape’ style of Ryoan-ji is comprised of nothing more than 15 rocks and white gravel, and dates all the way back to the 15th century. Visitors are encouraged to ponder the sight and determine their own interpretation of the message conveyed–and though I find meditation difficult, I felt peace here. Another point of interest is Tsukubai, a stone water basin for the temple’s tearoom with a Zen-inspired inscription that reads, “I learn only to be contented.” Along with its great pond, a manicured forest that reflects the beauty of Japanese gardens provides a quiet respite from the outside world. Get here early before everyone else as the temple does get crowded.

Ryoan-ji Temple Zen Rock Garden

Daitoku-ji Temple

A large temple complex with many subtemples, Daitoku-ji is home to the Daisen-In rock garden that dates back to 1509 AD and was created by one of Japan’s most famous abbots. Visitors are able to purchase a cup of green tea to enjoy while contemplating the garden that not only surrounds the temple, but also becomes a part of it.

For me, though, the highlight of Daitoku-ji is found at the Koto-In Zen Temple. Established by a military leader and great warrior named Hosokawa Tadaoki in 1601, Koto-in Zen Temple is comprised of a famous teahouse known as Shoko-ken, and a garden considered to be a masterpiece of simplicity, especially noted for its maple trees in the autumn. Even in the winter the garden is captivating, peaceful, and poignant. The site contains many rare paintings and other artworks, along with the graves of Tadaoki and his wife. Tucked on one side of a towering bamboo forest, the temple is a place of quietude and beauty, made all the more special once returning to the street sounds of traffic and city noise.

Kyoto Day 3: Day trip to Nara

The capital of Japan from 710 to 784, Nara was considered the cradle of Japanese culture, arts, and crafts–today its many treasures are registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List and the city can be reached from Kyoto by train in under 45 minutes.

School girls at the temple

Plan to spend a full day in Nara exploring the park, where most of the city’s attractions are found, along with sacred deer–thought to be messengers for the gods in the olden days, they are now protected by law. The Todai-ji Temple is Nara’s biggest highlight. The present structure (completed in 752) is the largest wooden building in the world and houses a 50-foot bronze Buddha. My favorite place in , though, is the orange-colored Kasuga Taisha shrine, which is lined with hundreds of lanterns.

Kyoto Day 4: Modern Kyoto

Aside from the many temples and historic districts, Kyoto is a modern city full of concrete and neon. Beyond the city’s train station, a modern mammoth of steel and glass, downtown Kyoto provides a wealth of activities for those feeling templed-out.

If museums and shopping fit the bill, check out the Museum of Kyoto or the Nishiki market located in the center of town. A long covered alley with vendors selling veggies and fish, mounds of bonito flakes, pickles (which you can sample), and baked goods, come to Nishiki for snacks like sashimi on a stick, or to simply take in the sight. Kyoto’s shopping district (which offers everything from notebooks to the latest fashions or traditional fans) is located around the intersection of Shijo-dori and Kawaramachi-dori, and spans many blocks.

Kyoto Day 5: Day trip to Himeji Castle

With its start as a simple fort in 1333, the Himeji Castle evolved over the years under the guidance of various lords – the castle as it stands today was finally completed in 1609 and can be reached from Kyoto by train in a few hours. Plan a full day to visit the Himeji Castle, and keep in mind that the premises close at 4 pm (September - May) or 5 pm (June - August).

Called the ‘White Heron’ for its white plaster exterior, the castle is considered the best preserved in Japan, and is listed as a World Heritage site. It may look familiar if you saw Kurosawa’s 1985 film, Ran.

Himeji Castle

The graceful curves of Himeji Castle is one of its distinctions, along with fish images on the roof known as Shachi-gawara, and the Osakabe Shinto Shrine at the top, where Japanese tourists pause to donate a few coins and say a prayer that ends with a swift 3 claps.

Originally located on the top of the hill where the castle was built, the shrine was moved during construction, and then returned to the site when the new location proved ‘unlucky’.

Next door to the castle, be sure to visit the Koko-en Garden, built in 1992 to celebrate Himeji’s 100th anniversary of municipality. Located where the castle’s samurai houses once existed, the Koko-en is comprised of 9 individual gardens designed in the style from the Edo period. There’s also a teahouse where visitors can partake in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

-Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Japan, things to do in Kyoto, and tours & activities in Tokyo.

Irkutsk is the jumping off point for Lake Baikal, the world’s deepest and weirdest lake. Water gushed into the space between two tectonic plates and created a huge crescent-shaped water that runs over 600km. It’s apparently more than a fifth of the world’s fresh unfrozen water. The tectonic plates are slowing moving away from each other and may one day split so that this could be the world’s fifth sea. Isolated within these depths is a unique ecosystem that serves as a sanctuary for nerpa (freshwater seals) and the omul fish.

Lake Baikal, Siberia

You get omul thrust at you by fishmongers as you get off the train at Slyuyanka, but the nerpa are hiding out under the ice. The frozen water lives up to its “Pearl of Siberia” nickname. As we walk along the lakefront there’s a curl of ice jutting out where the ice has shifted.

Because spring sun is coming in you can hear the ice tingling and cracking around the curl. It’s still possible to walk out on the ice though as it’s more than a metre deep. Locals drive their cars out there and there’s regular traffic of hovercrafts and skidoos. Guidebooks are snooty about locals getting holiday snaps in front of the curious ice formations so we ‘fight the cold with cold’ by eating ice cream and posing for even cornier shots.

Trans-Mongolia: Old school dog school

We shy away from the lake to find some old-school dog sledding. Our trainer Alexander introduces us to each of the dogs – Winston (named not for Churchill but for a favourite cigarette brand) is the leader. Mishka is a blue-eyed girl. And then there’s a white dog that, Alexander explains, is a “crazy dog we usually don’t take him out with the others. He is trouble.”

That crazy dog, on the Trans-Mongolia

Bundled up in a neck-to-toe camouflage ski suit, I hop into the sled. It’s a slower pull than I thought, but still whistles through the snowy birch forest at speed. The snows are melting so the trails are getting muddy and Alexander yells the dogs on.

The crazy dog does a good job of crapping as he runs, his legs scattering around the faeces as he scrambles on. Alexander cuts across some little peaks and the sled does short jarring jumps. We swap drivers and the dogs wolf down snow to cool off. On the way back I take Alexander over a couple of jumps and he laughs “Okay, okay” as we slide back home.

Over a post-mushing cup of tea, we look at other dog sports like Canine-cross that harnesses a human behind a fleet-footed pup in an example of dog walking that won’t make your osteopath very happy. There’s also the story of Nicholas Vanier {www.odysseesiberienne.com} a modern day adventurer who took a team of dogs from Baikal all the way to Moscow and almost froze to death several times in Siberia. WE prefer the train.

Trans-Mongolia: Overnight trainspotting

To get to Tomsk we have to make a connection that means 6 hours in the middle of the night in Taiga, an unimpressive industrial town. After some phrasebook fumbling and dodging a couple of Russians passed out from the national drink, we find the resting rooms. Above the station they’re like a mini-hotel where it’s possible to crash for a couple of hours if you don’t mind the whistles and toots of trains coming and going. Many of the trains out of here are bearing minerals and logs from Siberia and if you can’t sleep it’s easy to count trains. We’re out in about five minutes.

The matron of the resting rooms wakes us an hour before our train is due to depart. We’re in the notorious platskart, an open sleeper that has bunks crammed into every possible space – up to three lining each wall. There’s always someone walking by and security is nonexistent. It’s a short hop of a couple of hours so we grab a couple more hours sleep and keep our bags close by. Temperature-wise it’s actually more pleasant than the banya (Russian sauna) heat of our kupeyny (compartment class) of the earlier ride, making it easier to sleep. The thermometer in the kupeyny was over thirty degrees which made an odd disconnection from snowy Siberia sliding past outside.

Trans-Mongolia: Small town Tomsk

Just off the Tran-Siberian line proper, we arrive in Tomsk, a buzzing university town known for its wooden houses. Today they range from almost derelict to magnificently restored to slanting into derelict. We walk down ulitsa Krasnoarmeyskaya to admire the elaborately carved Peacock House, with doilies of lattice and slender woodwork birds crowning the building.

By contrast there’s the ugliness of former NKVD buildings that’s variously known as the Oppression Museum or Memorial. The NKVD were the forerunners for/of the KGB and were responsible for some of the most horrific acts of Stalin’s purges. There’s no English explanations at the museum, but you can easily work out the stories of priests, poets and intellectuals who were imprisoned and interrogated here.

Kazansky Church

Elsewhere in the town there’s Christianity, but not as we know it. At Kazansky Church there is/are icons and bearded priests reminiscent of Greek Orthodox, because this is the faith that was linked to the Constantine Empire which split from European Christianity during the dark ages.

The most obvious difference is the Eastern cross, that includes another cross bar at the base where Jesus’ feet would have rested.

Our final chore in Tomsk is to get out visas registered. This should be a simple process where your paperwork is stamped to stay that you have arrived in the country, but our hotel takes almost 12 hours. It’s boring but important stuff because in Moscow police reportedly work the train stations to fine passengers as they hop off trains. The visa is returned just as we head to bed in marvel of Russian service.

On the trains we’d already seen that our food would cool while a waiter finished a chapter of their Mills & Boon novel. In Russia the customer isn’t always right, they’re just always an irritation for staff.

-George Dunford

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s China tours & things to do (including tips on things to do in Beijing) and things to do in Russia.

China seems to be behind us as we pull into Erlian, to cross the border into Mongolia. Already we’ve seen the landscape growing drier and stations have lost their grim institutional look. Actually crossing the border is a formality. Customs officials snatch up our passports and give us no idea of when we’ll see them again. We begin the long slow wait for the gauges to change.

Mongolia is temptingly close but really it’s the distance between two gauges. And how long does it take to cross that distance? At least two hours as our bogie is lifted onto a new set of wheels. Swapping bogies makes trainspotters giggly with excitement, but it’s dull for anyone else.

Trans-Mongolia: Rail staff of the month

The guidebook chirpily tells you that once you get your passport back you should explore this “lively” border town. In fact it’s a plain train station that does duty free. To be fair I did ignore the instructions about getting your passport back and hopped off for a few minutes to go to the bathroom. I’m about to leave the terminal when I notice there’s now a guard on the door. I smile sweetly and push on the door but it’s locked. I ask the guard and she says, “you wait. 10:30.”

This means more than an hour of looking in the duty free area which, on closer inspection, is more of a supermarket with a dozen bottles of Malibu and a collection of obscure whiskies. I’m a little nervous without my passport but buying a few sachets of Coffee King in “American Flavour” keeps me amused for at least 10 minutes.

The rest is striking up conversations that consist of “Hello” and “I’m out of Mandarin now”.

Back on the train and we get a second serve of customs - Mongolian style. The green uniforms are similar but the Mongol version is tricked-out with more military bling. And the female inspector has higher cheekbones with more makeup. Her approach might have just been bossy in China, but here it’s refreshingly brassy.

Trans-Mongolia: Way of the rails #1

We splurged between Datong and Ulaan Baatar on a 2-person soft sleeper. This cosy cabin is like a pokey hotel room – only one of us can open our bag at a time and stowing on the top bunk makes more space. The top bunk folds down and there’s a convenient ladder. There’s a share shower – basically a hose, sink and drainable floor, but it does the job for a train. You also get a large thermos flask that conductors will re-fill (or let you re-fill depending on their friendliness) from the coal-fired boiler at the end of the carriage. As well as tea and coffee, it makes for budget-saving soups and noodles.

Of course there’s also the dining car. Our ticket includes dinner which, in China, was a couple of dollops of meatballs, rice and carrots, celery on the side. It’s bland but bearable. And you can throw in a couple of beers if you’re after flavour.

In the morning and on the other side of the border, we couple with a new dining car complete with ornately carved woodwork and a Mongolian ala carte breakfast. My sausage omlette comes with a sauerkraut-like slaw of carrots and cabbage. It’s springy and flavoursome, making a change from cup noodles.

Beard weird: Walking up to the monastery I get my first beard freeze. It starts with a moistness that hardens as I scrape my hand across it. It’s best prevented with a scarf or shaking off the icicles as you go.

Trans-Mongolia: Galloping gourmets

After the long train trip we go for a big meal. In the carnivalesque cuisine of Mongolia, meat is cheaper and hence more plentiful than vegetables. But it’s cooking based in the scarcity of the steppes, so all parts of the sheep are eaten (including the testicles). The first dish I order is mutton porridge, a glutinously thick stew with suspicious globs of meat in it. It reminds me of a hearty Scotch broth, minus any of those annoying veggies.

As the Mongols were nomads they needed meat in any form, including their national animal. So the horse is eaten. Which brings me to the main – skip ahead if you’re a Black Beauty fan. The Cowboy dish has three hefty horse ribs with potatoes on the side and a doughy dumpling pancake over the top. Perhaps this pancake is for modesty or to grandly unveil the meat beneath.

Gandantegchinlen Kiid monastery

And what does Mr Ed taste like? A nutty meat that could even be another cut of mutton. It’s definitely no racehorse as there’s fat lining the bone, though another piece is rangy like good game. It would have been good to wash down with koumiss (fermented mare’s milk) but the menu only runs to beers. Dessert items include peanuts, chewing gum and cigarettes – all good walking foods, so we take the hint and head out.

Trans-Mongolia: Holier than thou

We got to the Gandantegchinlen Kiid just before dusk. We were given the tip “In Mongolia, every car is a taxi” and waving at a passing car proves it. The monastery itself feels vital after China. Young monks wander the grounds being cheeky and older ones smile. There’s close to 200 monks here all part of the resurgence of Buddhism in Mongolia. With the snowy mountain backdrop it feels more like Tibet once would have.

In the morning we head out into the steppes to another monastery, Manzushir Kiid. It was given a kicking by the Chinese in the 1930s; now it’s all crumbling ruins flanking a restored temple that’s a modest museum. Snow starts to feather down as we hike up to the monastery and we’re exploring the temple just as it gets heavier. The museum has relics like wand made from a human shinbone and several masks used during ritual dances. The Buddha is from a different period to Yunguang, but is definitely more sensuous.

But up behind the temple there are small shrines built around faded and burned rock paintings and we head up there as the snow sets in. Offerings are still made here with blue ribbons tied around the poles as a form of prayer. Our guide, Tsegi, tells us that blue is for the Mongolian sky and as the snow flurries down it seems a stretch.

We saw several poles with blue cloth tied around them as we drove in. Our driver, Ogott, proves to be a man of few words but many beeps. As we pass his preferred shrine, we don’t have time to stop so he blasts the horn three times in tribute.

Trans-Mongolia: My ger or yours?

Ever wonder what the top of a 'ger' looks like?

After the temple we stop for lunch in a ger (yurt-like felt tent). The dome structure is designed to shed snow and keep the heat in, while being mobile enough for nomads. In winter there’s a little antechamber by the door to keep the heat in.

As we come in we’re met with the mewling of newly born goats, soaking up the warmth. We are offered a milky tea, though Tsegi warns us our stomach might not be able to take it. We have a few polite sips. It’s a little awkward with our hosts as we’re having a translated conversation back and forth.

A neighbour arrives with a sticky newly born goat which he places by the fire and we all watch it struggle to stand. The neighbour wants to ask us about sheep. We work out this is because we’re Australian and hence must know all about sheep (in the same way Brits know all about growing tea and Americans can detail the ins and outs of their foreign policy.)

I sneak in a toilet break and notice that the outhouse uses cow dung as a glue to hold the wooden structure together. Back inside dung is burnt in the fire and it has dried so much there’s no smell. Our tea was prepared on this fire and there was no noticeable stink. The whole ger is cosy even despite the snow.

We head back to Ulaan Bataar with another train to catch. We encourage Ogott to break the drive at his shrine and honour it by doing a three circumnavigations. We solemnly pick up three stones, dropping one on each lap and making a little prayer that we’ll get to the train on time. Ogott makes a single lap, tossing all three stones in one go. We ask Tsegi why.

“He is lazy,” she laughs.

But as we pull out we see some lazier worshippers, who do a quick lap in their car. Nirvana has developed dive-thru.

Trans-Mongolia: Smuggling into Russia

Our train to Mongolia sets off in the early afternoon. It’s not long into the journey when several ladies start wandering the carriage with huge bundles of jeans, T-shirts and handbags. At first I think they’re just selling them and awe see few pairs are exchanged for money, so a simple ‘nyet’ gets us out of trouble. But one of the conductors comes to plead their case – would I do them a favour of carrying two blankets across the border for them? I’m being dragged into a notorious blanket-smuggling ring.

They’re following the route of the Russian tea caravan that linked Europe with India and China. The route became less popular when shipping routes became quicker than overland routes.

At Darkhan even more small-time crooks push onto the train. The new smugglers have to work fast with the border at the next stop so they shark the corridor, their eyes darting around each compartment for any empty space. Their eyes plead. Don’t we have room? Couldn’t we just take a few pieces?

The border crossing is arduous with lots of poking through cabins from both Mongolian and then Russian border guards – the Russian bashes the walls for hollow compartments and jumps up like Action Man to inspect the luggage. A 20-year-old Mongolian makes a show of looking sternly at our passports before whisking them away for eventual stamping. The whole event takes five hours.

We settle in to sleep. It doesn’t last. I step out blinking into the corridor and the smuggling has become a military operation. The corridor is lined with bodies and bags – one unwrapping and stowing the other. Several of the people walking the corridor have lists and are checking them. They are calculating where each item is for quick swaps at stations.

It must be 4am by the time they finish and the train lurches on. Even then there a few knocks at the door and requests to carry blankets. I sleep fitfully having been tangled in this elicit blanket, salami and jeans trade.
When we pull in at Slyudyanka the smugglers begin their furious work. They hop out onto the Russian platform and begin haggling and hustling. You can barely get to the doors for the trading. Some platform Russians are doing old fashioned barter.

And what do they have to offer? A local smoked fish, omul, in plastic bags and swapped for pair of jeans. It’s the modern version of the tea caravan and our first glimpse of Russia.

-George Dunford

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s China tours & things to do (including tips on things to do in Beijing) and things to do in Russia.