Asia

Editor’s Note: In the run-up to the 2008 Beijing Games, Viator has created a mini-guide for travelers that covers suggested itineraries in Beijing, as part of our Beijing tours & things to do in Beijing listings. As the games get closer we will have on-the-ground advice for making the most of your trip to Beijing during the historic 2008 Olympic games.

Visiting Beijing for the 2008 Olympic games? Then read on…

Since 2004, a giant digital clock in Beijing’s Tiananmen Square has been counting down the days, hours, minutes, and seconds until the opening ceremony of the 2008 Olympic Games, on August 8. It’s a momentous time for Beijing, as the countdown to the Olympics and the round-the-clock construction of a brand new city wind down.

More than 1 million people are expected to visit Beijing for the Olympics. We’ll assume you have already sorted your Olympic tickets (if not, click here for information on obtaining tickets to events at the Beijing games). So now we can focus on the fun stuff.

Your first stop? Check out Viator’s day-by-day itineraries in Beijing over on the main Viator.com website. We’ve put together this guide to help you plan your Beijing travels, with several itineraries to accommodate those with only a day to spend, to those with several.

Next, have a look at the suggestions below for making the most of a trip to Beijing during the 2008 Olympics. If you have more time in Beijing, or if you’re looking for activities that only fill a few hours, the city is full of interesting walks and bicycle rides, shopping centers, art galleries and museums, and entertainment. Here are some of the highlights.

Top Things to Do in Beijing

Standing guard in Beijing’s Tiananmen Square

• Rent a Bicycle. Though Beijing was famed in the past for the numbers of bicyclists clogging the streets, cars are more prevalent these days. Even so, there are plenty of cyclists riding along in special bicycle lanes with their own traffic signals and traffic directors, which make biking in the city relatively safe. Rides through hutong neighborhoods and around the Forbidden City are pleasant, and bicycle rentals are cheap and easy to find.

• Peking Duck Banquet & Chinese Acrobatic Show. Enjoy world-famous Peking Duck, an absolute must-do experience in Beijing, followed up with exotic entertainment by a Chinese acrobat troupe. The whole evening lasts about 4 hours and includes complimentary hotel pick-up and drop-off.

• Get a Drink. Head over to Sanlitun, the embassy district, which is a popular expat area with small international bars and cafes tucked in the avenues and side streets. Or check out the up and coming (and somewhat tamer) Houhai Lake for bars, pubs, cafes, and restaurants.

• Go Shopping. Once the commercial heart of the city in the Qing Dynasty, Qianmen Street (just south of Tiananmen Square) has been redeveloped as a shopping area inspired by the past, with renovated shops, an opera house, and a tree-lined marble thoroughfare for pedestrians. Nearby, the glass-faced Oriental Plaza stretches from Wangfujing Street to Dong Dan, an upscale shopping center, the plaza is two stories of clothing stores and several museums. The six-story Shin Kong Plaza in the Central Business District is home to more than 100 stores for designer brands like Prada and Gucci, and restaurants that span the gamut from classic French to traditional Beijing cuisine. Also in the Central Business District, a ritzy new mall called The Place, located near the Silk Market, is best known for its main attraction: a giant, 98-foot-wide LED screen ‘video roof’ that projects everything from swimming sharks and flying birds to intergalactic light shows.

• Visit a Gallery or Museum. Check out the Dashanzi Art District, a neighborhood of industrial buildings previously used for military and factory purposes that have been converted by artists into galleries, boutiques, coffee shops, and restaurants. For antiquities, the Wanshou Temple is home to the Beijing Art Museum, with collections of paintings, carvings, pottery, and handicrafts, and The Capital Museum houses artifacts such as ancient coins, stoneware, calligraphy and paintings. The Beijing Natural History Museum, near the Temple of Heaven, offers an interesting mix of zoological displays and human cadavers. The National Museum, on Tiananmen Square, has a timeline history of the communist party mixed with an incongruent collection of art exhibits on the first floor and a kitschy wax museum on the second, with a better view of Chairman Mao than the nearby mausoleum.

• Tour the ‘New’ Beijing Architecture. See for yourself what all the fuss is about by visiting the controversial new buildings in Beijing’s landscape, designed by some of the modern world’s greatest architects. The National Grand Theater, called The Egg, is a futuristic looking opera house of steel and glass surrounded by an artificial lake located west of Tiananmen Square. On the Olympic Green, get a look at the shiny metal National Stadium, called the Bird Nest, and the glass bubbled National Aquatics Center, also known as the Water Cube. Don’t miss the CCTV Headquarters, a skyscraper with an unusual trapezoidal ‘loop’ shape for China Central Television in the Central Business District.

• Go Dancing. Check out China Doll in Sanlitun, a dance club with an underwater atmosphere spread over three floors, or Club Mix located at the Worker’s Stadium North Gate, recently expanded and packed every night, Mix has several dance floors playing different styles of music. StarLive, in Yonghegong, is the best place to catch live music and foreign acts passing through town.

–Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of China tours, Beijing tours & attractions and tours of the Great Wall. You can even prebook a private Beijing airport transfer (PEK).

He’s not visiting there, or on vacation, or anything like that. No, my dentist lives there. He works in a wonderful, big, shiny and modern dental centre with lots of other dentists and nurses and hygienists, and all the other people and equipment you expect to see at the dentist.

I like him being there. Besides charging me about 80% less than what I’d pay for similar work in Sydney or San Francisco, I like the fact that he’s far enough away that he doesn’t call or email every few months about my next check-up or some other annoying “procedure.” No, he just waits patiently for me to transit through Bangkok on my way to or from Sydney. I am firmly in control of our relationship.

Deep in Bangkok, Jordan in Thai food heaven

And what a great place to have a dentist! As my colleague Jordan Digby — a Thailand resident — likes to say, Bangkok is a very fractal city. No matter how deep you go, there’s always another interesting pattern to be revealed. The guidebook is almost a distraction. The real action is… everywhere.

Visiting Bangkok last week to see one of our suppliers — and to drop in on Dr. Chat for a, well, a chat, I suppose — Jordan and I decided to venture deep into culinary Bangkok to sample a tiny restaurant that the New York Times has twice, over a period of 12 years, described in terms that would have their readers imagine it’s the “best of the best” Thai restaurants on our small blue planet. Having eaten some pretty good Thai food in our time, this was a claim we were interested in testing. We set off at 5pm with detailed address details and a hunger built up specifically with our mission in mind.

We stopped within walking distance, we guessed, of our destination, and watched the world go by while enjoying a cold drink. Observing the passing traffic is one of Bangkok’s delights, especially at dusk when the light coats everything with a little extra Oriental mystery. By 6:30 we’d gotten ourselves into the right state of mind, and figured we’d be safe finding a table before the rush later in the evening.

Two minutes later Jordan searched for the address details and realised they were gone, left at the bar or fallen on the street, but in any case gone. In Bangkok that’s not a good thing: it’s such a big city nobody really knows where anything is unless it’s important or big, and our destination was neither. Having got this close we didn’t feel like giving up, so we relied on Viator’s famous 24-hour Customer Service team to save the day: Jordan called Lindy in Sydney, she Googled “new york times thai restaurant” or something similar, and through the wonders of modern search technology and text messaging, we had the address about a minute later.

So far, so good.

But have you ever tried to find an address on foot in Bangkok by showing a text message to passing strangers?

Yep, it tasted as good as it looks

Fortunately all Thai kids learn English in school, and after some frustrating encounters we came across a family group that included the most precocious eight-year old in the city: she not only knew the street, she knew the restaurant, and couldn’t have been prouder showing up her big sister, who clearly hadn’t been paying attention in class.

The rest of the story is predictable: the restaurant, Chote Chitr (five tables, and the menu is in Thai), was every bit as good as the reviews. We followed the owner’s guidance and ordered all the good stuff. You know that thing about not believing everything you read in the papers? Forget that. The NY Times is 100% right.

So, here’s a thought: next time you see your dentist, ask him if he knows any good Thai restaurants. You may not be ready to move him to the other side of the world, but you can at least dream a little…

–Rod Cuthbert

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Thailand, Bangkok tours and activities in Phuket.

Maiko (apprentice Geisha)

Arriving at my ryokan in the Higashiyama district of Kyoto, a commotion of tourists near the hotel entrance erupted as maiko (apprentice geisha) stopped in front of a silvery-leafed tree to pose for a photographer. Given my location near Gion, famed for the ochaya, or teahouses, where geisha entertain affluent clientele, the sight of maiko became a common experience during the week I spent in Kyoto.

At night I would see them on their way to appointments, balanced high on wooden clogs called okobo, kimono shifting gracefully with each tiny step upon flagstone streets lit by old-fashioned lamps–a singular image that sums up the elegance and romance of the entire city. Kyoto offers a glimpse into the past of Japan, a city of rich tradition and cultural importance.

It’s been said that the historical side of Kyoto must be sought, with layers of the past nestled here and there among bustling city streets and tall modern buildings. But for me, it felt like the other way around. There are several thousand temples, hundreds of Shinto shrines, pagodas, Zen gardens, and numerous historical districts to be explored.

It’s possible to get a taste of the city as a day trip from Tokyo – the trip by shinkansen, or bullet train, is only a few hours. But for those with more time in Japan, three days is the suggested minimum by guidebooks. Considering the traveler’s affliction known as ‘temple fatigue’, for some three days might just be enough. With more time, day trips from Kyoto to more far-flung destinations are possible, thanks to Japan Railways, a network of track and speeding trains that connect cities all over Japan.

Kyoto Day 1: Historic Neighborhoods

Get a feeling for the city by exploring the historic neighborhoods in eastern Kyoto, starting with Higashiyam and then moving onto Pontocho Alley.

Higashiyama & Gion

Higashiyama

Higashiyama translates to ‘Eastern Mountain District’, a literal description of its location on the East side of the Kamo River, at the base of the Higashiyama mountain rage. It’s perfect strolling territory, with narrow stone-paved lanes that wind their way through tidy, aged neighborhoods; spires of pagodas that peak above silvery rooftops and the crisscrossing patterns of electrical lines; and temples and shrines that intermingle with modern day shops and homes–a sight that becomes familiar at every turn, but still manages to surprise.Begin with the Yasaka Shrine at the end of Shijo-Dori, and then make your way down the quaint Ishibe-Koji Lane, past traditional inns and teahouses. Take the stairs up to the Kodai-ji Temple and gaze upon the rooftops of Kyoto from the hilltop. Say a prayer to the giant Buddha called the Ryozen Kannon on your decent towards the Yasaka Pagoda and Sannenzaka Slope, known for its jumble of shops selling traditional crafts and souvenirs. Top it off with a rickshaw tour, powered by men in black tights.

Head over to the heart of neighboring Gion, Japan’s most widely known geisha district. Called geiko in Kyoto rather than geisha, the term means ‘a woman of art’ – geiko are entertainers, trained in conversation, music, and dance. As Gion is an entertainment district, it’s quiet during daylight hours, and offers pleasant strolls along streets lined with old-style houses and traditional teahouses, as well as exclusive restaurants.

Kyoto’s Pontocho Alley

On the other side of the Kamo River, Pontocho Alley comes alive in the evening, when the restaurants and bars that line the narrow lane and branching streets open for business. Another place to spot geiko on their way to and from appointments at traditional ochaya, Pontocho Alley began as a gay quarter and remains a lively entertainment district best experienced at the dinner hour and beyond.

Kyoto Day 2: Temples & Gardens

While Kyoto possesses too many temples to name or visit during the average traveler’s stay, several temples in the Northwest area of the city provide plenty of peace and Zen for any spiritual diet, and rank among my favorites.

Ryoan-ji Temple

Best known for its Zen rock garden, the ‘dry landscape’ style of Ryoan-ji is comprised of nothing more than 15 rocks and white gravel, and dates all the way back to the 15th century. Visitors are encouraged to ponder the sight and determine their own interpretation of the message conveyed–and though I find meditation difficult, I felt peace here. Another point of interest is Tsukubai, a stone water basin for the temple’s tearoom with a Zen-inspired inscription that reads, “I learn only to be contented.” Along with its great pond, a manicured forest that reflects the beauty of Japanese gardens provides a quiet respite from the outside world. Get here early before everyone else as the temple does get crowded.

Ryoan-ji Temple Zen Rock Garden

Daitoku-ji Temple

A large temple complex with many subtemples, Daitoku-ji is home to the Daisen-In rock garden that dates back to 1509 AD and was created by one of Japan’s most famous abbots. Visitors are able to purchase a cup of green tea to enjoy while contemplating the garden that not only surrounds the temple, but also becomes a part of it.

For me, though, the highlight of Daitoku-ji is found at the Koto-In Zen Temple. Established by a military leader and great warrior named Hosokawa Tadaoki in 1601, Koto-in Zen Temple is comprised of a famous teahouse known as Shoko-ken, and a garden considered to be a masterpiece of simplicity, especially noted for its maple trees in the autumn. Even in the winter the garden is captivating, peaceful, and poignant. The site contains many rare paintings and other artworks, along with the graves of Tadaoki and his wife. Tucked on one side of a towering bamboo forest, the temple is a place of quietude and beauty, made all the more special once returning to the street sounds of traffic and city noise.

Kyoto Day 3: Day trip to Nara

The capital of Japan from 710 to 784, Nara was considered the cradle of Japanese culture, arts, and crafts–today its many treasures are registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List and the city can be reached from Kyoto by train in under 45 minutes. Plan to spend a full day in Nara exploring the park, where most of the city’s attractions are found, along with sacred deer–thought to be messengers for the gods in the olden days, they are now protected by law. The Todai-ji Temple is Nara’s biggest highlight. The present structure (completed in 752) is the largest wooden building in the world and houses a 50-foot bronze Buddha. My favorite place in , though, is the orange-colored Kasuga Taisha shrine, which is lined with hundreds of lanterns.

Nara

Kyoto Day 4: Modern Kyoto

Aside from the many temples and historic districts, Kyoto is a modern city full of concrete and neon. Beyond the city’s train station, a modern mammoth of steel and glass, downtown Kyoto provides a wealth of activities for those feeling templed-out.

If museums and shopping fit the bill, check out the Museum of Kyoto or the Nishiki market located in the center of town. A long covered alley with vendors selling veggies and fish, mounds of bonito flakes, pickles (which you can sample), and baked goods, come to Nishiki for snacks like sashimi on a stick, or to simply take in the sight. Kyoto’s shopping district (which offers everything from notebooks to the latest fashions or traditional fans) is located around the intersection of Shijo-dori and Kawaramachi-dori, and spans many blocks.

Kyoto Day 5: Day trip to Himeji Castle

With its start as a simple fort in 1333, the Himeji Castle evolved over the years under the guidance of various lords – the castle as it stands today was finally completed in 1609 and can be reached from Kyoto by train in a few hours. Plan a full day to visit the Himeji Castle, and keep in mind that the premises close at 4 pm (September - May) or 5 pm (June - August).

Called the ‘White Heron’ for its white plaster exterior, the castle is considered the best preserved in Japan, and is listed as a World Heritage site. It may look familiar if you saw Kurosawa’s 1985 film, Ran.

The graceful curves of Himeji Castle is one of its distinctions, along with fish images on the roof known as Shachi-gawara, and the Osakabe Shinto Shrine at the top, where Japanese tourists pause to donate a few coins and say a prayer that ends with a swift 3 claps. Originally located on the top of the hill where the castle was built, the shrine was moved during construction, and then returned to the site when the new location proved ‘unlucky’.

Next door to the castle, be sure to visit the Koko-en Garden, built in 1992 to celebrate Himeji’s 100th anniversary of municipality. Located where the castle’s samurai houses once existed, the Koko-en is comprised of 9 individual gardens designed in the style from the Edo period. There’s also a teahouse where visitors can partake in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

Himeji Castle

–Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Japan, things to do in Kyoto, and tours & activities in Tokyo.

…and the tough guys tumble. It’s true, but really – one night in Bangkok is never enough. Perhaps more than any other city, Bangkok is a city for the senses. There are amazing sights – like the golden-spired “Wats” that dot the city; amazing sounds – the whir of tuk-tuks and buzz of conversation; amazing touch – the feel of silk and the touch of a Thai massage and of course the amazing smells and tastes of Thai food!

Bangkok is a place that you can visit over and over again and always find something new. In the past 10 years, I have made several trips - for work, for pleasure and as a convenient flight stop-over. I have come up with my ideal week of both the “must sees” and the sites off the beaten Path.

It tastes even better in Bangkok!

We have a lot to cover, so here goes…

Bangkok Day 1: Arrival

Depending on where you are flying from, you will probably arrive late at night. The new Bangkok airport is modern and efficient but charmingly chaotic! Taxis are plentiful and cheap and there are lots of touts in the airport to “help” you. Though most Thais speak English, the last thing you want is to be driving around while your driver tries to find your hotel! A better idea: pre-book your transfer. You’ll get a private car, an English speaking guide and they’ll know in advance where you are going. Check in to your hotel, have a Singha and get good nights sleep – we will be busy tomorrow.

Bangkok Day 2: Grand Palace & Wat Arun

Start the morning with a visit to Bangkok’s most famous site – The Grand Palace. Though no longer the Royal residence, it is still a beautiful compound of glittering buildings and the famous Emerald Buddha. For the first time visitor, a Guided Tour is highly recommended. It gets GREAT reviews - tell us what you think! After lunch, head to Wat Arun – also known as the Temple of Dawn – my tip: after your tour, come back around sunset and wander around as the sun goes down behind the temple.

Suan Lum Night Bazaar - still going strong.

In the evening, make your way to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This HUGE open air market-dining-drinking-people watching spot is one of my favorite places. There are literally thousands of small stands selling everything from souvenirs to shampoo. It’s been reported that the government is evicting all the merchants to develop another hotel/office complex, but many of the merchants have refused to move. You will see some empty stalls, but as of my last visit in November, 2007, the market is still going strong. The market is also home to the Joe Louis Puppet Theater - a fun place for all ages to see Thai puppetry. For dinner check out any of the open-air places for a great Thai meal - or even a pizza or Mexican, it’s all there.

Bangkok Day 3: Temples, Jim Thompson’s House

Another busy day! Your guide will pick you up at your hotel for your tour to Wat Pho – or the temple of the reclining Buddha. At 46 meters in length and 15 meters high the Buddha is the largest in Bangkok and illustrates the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. This tour also includes two other temples – Wat Traimit – the Golden Temple and Wat Benchamabophit – the Marble Temple. (OK, we have covered it all – Emerald, Golden, Marble…!)

Sirocco: Come for the view or the food.

In the afternoon, head over to Jim Thompson’s House. You can easily visit the house on your own, or if you are into Thai architecture (or Thai Silk!), take the private tour. Jim Thompson, an American who returned to live in Thailand after World War II (he found New York City tame after many years in Bangkok!), is known as the man who put the Thai silk industry on the global stage. A visit to his beautifully built Thai house showcases his passion for Thai arts and culture. The house was constructed from different parts of various derelict houses in central Thailand and contains a fabulous collection of paintings and Asian artifacts. In 1967 Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared in the Cameron Highlands (Malaysia), which has only added to his legend.

Tonight is our splurge for dinner, with a visit to Sirocco on the Top of the State Tower. This outdoor restaurant has incredible 360-degree views of Bangkok and fantastic food. Warning: it’s not cheap. Plan on about US$100 per person. If you are on a budget (and not an expense account) come up for a Sundowner drink instead. The view is the same!

Check out the great menu and make a reservation in advance. Dress sharply!

Bangkok Day 4: Chao Phraya River & Thonburi canals

After breakfast, grab a taxi to Chinatown. For added excitement, take a tuk-tuk, the noisy three-wheeled motor bikes that ply around the tourist zone. Hang on tight as these guys weave through traffic and make zippy turns. Once you are there, just wander the streets and take in the action. Bangkok is a relatively safe city, but be sure to watch your belongings here, as pickpockets are not uncommon. Speaking of pickpockets: be sure to visit Nakhon Kasem, or the “Thieves Market”. Used to be most everything here for sale was stolen from somewhere else, but now it is mainly antiques and souvenirs.

Next stroll down to the Chao Phraya riverfront. Historically, the river was the main thoroughfare of Bangkok and it still buzzes today with commerce. There are piers located next to many of the major hotels including the Sheraton, Peninsula and Mandarin. At any pier and you will be “offered” to charter a long-tail boat. Most boats can also take you down the canals of Thonburi, a district on the west side of the river where the river is still the center of the action. Many houses are built on stilts over the canals and the boat is a great way to see daily life close up – really close up! Don’t be shy – these guys cater to tourists and a boat cruise is great fun. Bargain hard as the prices may start out at 10 times what they should be. For the less adventurous, there is a long boat river taxi that makes several stops up and down the river on a fixed schedule.

Press HERE to relax.

After a leisurely lunch, it’s time for a massage. For about 300 Baht ($7-8) you can get an hour long foot massage – perfect for those weary feet. For a few Baht more, you can get an hour long Thai-style massage, usually performed on a mat and a mix of pressure and stretching. It’s not always gentle, but you will feel relaxed, I guarantee. Look for the “legit” massage parlors on any major street, often with foot reflexology signs in the windows and rows of comfy chairs lined up inside. Note – if there are a gaggle of scantily glad girls (or boys) out front and the prices are a lot higher, you are not likely going to get a “traditional” Thai massage. ‘Nuff said!

Bangkok Day 5: Thai cooking class

If you love Thai food, then today will be a highlight as you learn to cook (and get to eat!) some great Thai dishes. Viator has two options for you – a half-day class or a full-day class with a visit to a market outside the city. I did the half day class on my last visit and really enjoyed it. In each session, you learn to cook 4-5 dishes, an appetizer, soup or salad, main and a dessert. The menu changes each day, so you can come back on each trip to Bangkok. The classes are small and the chef/teachers are great fun as they explain not only the recipes, but a little about Thai life and culture. You get to take home the recipe books and can buy the menus for the other classes. Look for the course with the Thai green curry!

This afternoon is for relaxing by the pool, shopping, or maybe another foot massage. (Truth be told, I get a foot or back/shoulder massage every day when in Bangkok. For just a few bucks, it’s an hour well spent!).

In the evening, venture out to the Patpong, Sukhumvit or any major street and sample some great Thai food from a local vendor or open air café. If you are not sure which one to go to, look for the crowds of the locals and follow them. Rarely will you see a menu – just a selection of delicious and spicy foods. Point, smile and order!

Bangkok Day 6: Thai countryside – River Kwai, Floating Canals, or Ayuthaya

After several busy days in the city, it’s time to venture out and see the countryside. There are a lot of options depending on your interests – A day trip to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya, a tour to the famous Bridge on the River Kwai, or maybe an early morning trip to the floating markets at Damnoen Saduak to see the merchants buying and selling right off of their boats. I have done each of these trips on different occasions and can recommend each one.

Bangkok Sky Train at the Mo Chit Station.

Bangkok Day 7: Chatuchak market, Dinner Cruise

If it’s the weekend, then you MUST head to the Chatuchak market. Often touted as the largest outdoor market in the world, this is a one-stop shopping center, but VERY different from your local mall. I think it rates as one of the Top Ten Places in the World to Shop and I bet you will agree. This market has just about everything - souvenirs, artwork, housewares, silk, clothes, pets – you name it. Again, the word of the market is NEGOTIATE. The price for anything here is based on the vendors’ quick calculation of you and your ability to pay. Bargaining is expected and when done with a smile, a laugh (and a willingness to walk away) it can be a win-win for both parties. The market is very easy to get to on the fast, efficient Bangkok SkyTrain. You can’t miss it – it’s the last stop (Mo Chit) on the Sukhumvit Line.

For your last night in Bangkok, the perfect ending is a peaceful Dinner cruise on a traditional rice barge. As the sun sets and the heat dies down, they city actually comes to life - the lights come up, as do the small fires of food carts all over town. As you drift past it all, you can begin to plan your next trip – Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, or maybe Hong Kong

There are 100’s of great things to do in Bangkok. My week is just a sample. For nearly anything on this itinerary, you can take a private or group tour or explore on our own. But remember, popular tours like the cooking class and river cruise sell out in advance.

–Ken F

Post a comment and tell me your favorite things in Bangkok!

Visit Japan for the food? That’s an emphatic yes. Japanese cuisine is a great reason to visit – nevermind the country’s castles, temples, gardens, and geisha. Eating in Japan is like a tour of historical attractions in its own right. And with more than a dozen types of specialty restaurants, my plan was to eat my way from one end of my week-long visit to the other.

Japanese food on display (even the plastic samples look tasty)

What I didn’t realize was that my gastronomic tour of Japan would shatter a few long-held perceptions. Namely, that the food is mostly healthy, often unfamiliar, and unequivocally Japanese. I was surprised to learn that many of the country’s specialties are imports, brought in from the West and refined to the point they’ve become distinctly Japanese, which (by the way) is synonymous with perfection.Whether a highly coordinated meal delivered personally by the chef, or a DIY affair cooked at your own table on a piping-hot grill (mind your elbows), eating in Japan is an experience full of variety, with a side order of history. Following are three of my favorite specialties, both foreign and familiar at the same time, that comprise a mini-timeline of the politics and events that have shaped Japanese cuisine.

Japanese Cuisine: History of Tempura

We have the Portuguese to thank for tempura: seafood and vegetables battered and deep-fried to golden perfection. Portuguese missionaries and traders in the 16th century introduced this method of cooking to the Japanese – historians believe the word tempura comes from four days known as “Ember days”, or Quator Tempora, during Lent when no meat was eaten. The Japanese added their own twist to the name by spelling the word with the character for ‘heaven’.

I usually regret eating deep-fried foods, but tempura is different: crisp, light, and not so greasy. The secret is in the batter, a purposefully lumpy concoction of egg, ice water and flour that gives the coating on the food (or ‘cloak’ as the Japanese refer to it) a paper-thin, bubbling texture. They say that tempura aficionados can tell the difference between a novice chef of 5 years and a veteran chef of more than 20. Considering that tempura is all about precision in the mix of the batter, the heat of the oil, and cooking time, it’s not surprising that a chef of 5 years is still considered a novice.

Tempura shops usually serve set meals (teishoku) that include rice, miso soup, and Japanese pickles. In Kyoto, I dined at a tempura restaurant with a menu that had only two options: ‘small’ or ‘large’. When your only choice comes down to size, you know it’s got to be good. And it was. I paid $35 for the large portion, about 12 items, each served to me one at a time by the chef himself, straight from the cooking pot. Tempura is best while it’s hot, so try to get a seat at the counter and show the chef your appreciation by eating the tempura immediately.

Japanese Cuisine: Tonkatsu

Tonkatsu is a deep-fried pork cutlet (and obviously an import from abroad — what culture would incorporate both raw fish and deep-fried pork into its cuisine?). Tonkatsu falls into a category of food known as Yoshoku, a Japanese interpretations of Western fare. In the late 1800s, when Japan opened up to the West for trade after a long period of isolation, a centuries-old ban on eating meat was overturned and tonkatsu was born (the same trend has also introduced dishes to the Japanese menu like spaghetti with ketchup sauce, hamburger patties without bread, and omelets filled with rice and ketchup).

Tonkatsu. Who doesn’t love a deep-fried pork cutlet???

The origin of tonkatsu is traced back to the French item, veal cotelette and, like all Yoshoku dishes, was modified over time to suit the Japanese palate; veal was replaced by pork, grated cheese was replaced with batter, and the whole thing was deep-fried, like tempura. It’s usually served as a set meal, with rice, miso soup, Japanese pickles, and a side of shredded cabbage (an accompaniment that goes back to WWII, when skilled cooks were few and far between, and food shortages popularized cheap cabbage).

When you visit a tonkatsu restaurant, there may be several choices of set meals depending on the type of dipping sauce, additional sides like croquettes, and the cut of pork. Order Rosu-katsu for a fatter cut of pork loin, or Hire-katsu for pork tenderloin, which is leaner and a tad healthier. Like tempura, I found tonkatsu to be more delicate and less greasy than deep-fried foods of the West, an attribute I assign to the craft involved with specializing in a single item. I spent about $30 on a Hire-katsu set meal in the Ebisu district of Tokyo.

Japanese Cuisine: Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is as fun to eat as it is to say. It has an elusive history that either links this type of food to an ancient import from China, or places it firmly in the yoshoku category (though it’s unclear what type of Western food this would be related to). The latter posits that okonomiyaki was popularized during WWII, during rice shortages, and was called Issen Yoshoku or one-penny Western food.

The Art of Okonomiyaki

Nowadays okonomiyaki means “cook what you like, the way you like” and has been likened to pizza. Though aside from its round shape there really is no comparison. For starters it’s made of a flour-and-yam-based batter mixed with chopped cabbage and then pan-fried with fillings of meat or seafood. Add toppings like cheese, bonito (fish) flakes, a fried egg, or even kimchee, and finish it off with Japanese Worcestershire sauce and a healthy dose of mayonnaise.

Okonomiyaki is a DIY affair at your own table, with a spatula as cooking implement. I can’t help but think of okonomiyaki as working class food — a blue-collar meal to be eaten while consuming beer or, perhaps, as hangover food. Osaka is often cited as the home of okonomiyaki, but there appears to be a fierce rivalry between Osaka and Hiroshima for the title.

Okonomiyaki is probably the least known of all Japanese fare to those of us in the West, but commonly found throughout most of Japan. It’s become so popular, there are chain restaurants that specialize in this unique item, along with a variety that includes noodles, called Modanyaki. Typically priced at about $9 per order, it’s an affordable option in comparison with other types of food. I suggest trying it at a few different places, especially if you first wind up in a restaurant that cooks it for you, which isn’t such a bad thing. Receiving a bowl full of batter, cabbage, and fillings as a first-timer is a little perplexing.

–Cheryn Flanagan

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours & things to do in Tokyo (including a food tour in Tokyo), Kyoto tours & attractions, Osaka tours & things to do, and travel & tour ideas across Japan.

Editor’s Note: Read the latest on the Optimistic Fools preparation for the 2008 Mongol Rally here. Viator is pleased to be a sponsor of the Optimistic Fools rally team, on their journey to complete the 2008 Mongol Rally from London to Ulan Bator, Mongolia. We’ll be checking in with the team over the next 6 months as they prepare for the 2008 Mongol Rally. The team will also blog for us as they make their way from London to Mongolia.

Do you sit in your car each morning — or on the bus, the train or tram — the sun not yet broken above the horizon and the sleep-dust still in the corners of your eyes, headed for a day in the office thinking, “why do I do this each and every day?”

The Optimistic Fools: Christoph Courth & Oliver Westgarth

If the answer is ‘yes’ then you are not alone. We all do, we all yearn for something else, something new to test ourselves and to make us feel alive again. For this very reason Oliver Westgarth and myself (Christoph Courth) have decided to take leave from the daily grind and take up the challenge of the ‘greatest adventure in the world’. As in, the Mongol Rally. Our team name: the Optimistic Fools.

Mongol Rally, Explained

Whilst sitting in a pub on a dark and dreary Sunday morning, head pounding preparing myself for another week at the office, a few friends including Ollie and I were nostalgically discussing past trips around the world. And our dreamlike adventures for the future, one of which being the Mongol Rally. The following day while downing my first cup of strong black coffee at my desk in my windowless office, I Googled the Mongol Rally website and found that the lottery to sign up for the rally was to open that very afternoon at 2. Come 2 o’clock, I excused myself from a meeting, ducked back into my office and quickly signed up for this awesome challenge. Three weeks later an email arrived in my inbox and the planning began.

Launching on the 18th of July 2008, 200 teams of ramshackle cars and bikes will convene in Hyde Park, London, ready to journey across both Europe and Asia, to meet up again, should luck and providence dictate, at the finishing line of the Mongol Rally in Ulan Bator, Mongolia. Now in its 5th year, this rally was founded not only for adventure but to help Mongolian charities such as Mercy Corps Mongolia and the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation through fund-raising and public awareness. Each team is required to raise a minimum of £1,000 which is donated to these designated charities; any extra raised by the teams can be given to a charity of choice.

Founded in Bristol, England, by the League of Adventurists International Limited, the inaugural rally rolled out of London in 2004, seeing 6 teams leave and 4 stumble across the finishing line. In 2005, 43 heaps of petrol-fuelled rust wooed the crowds in London, of which only 18 arrived intact in Ulan Bator. The 2006 Rally left the UK in July with 167 cars crossing the English Channel and 117 teams arriving in Mongolia. In 2007 the number of teams rose to 200 with only around 70% arriving at the finish line. Due to high demand, 2008 will again see the places limited to 200, however the real question remains; how many will survive the crossing?

Each year the Mongol Rally has gone from strength to strength, attracting adventure junkies and press coverage from across the globe. These modern day adventurers attempt to traverse the 8,000 - 10,000 miles in three to six weeks, crossing up to 16 different borders and two continents. Some teams even find that on arrival in Mongolia all they want to do is turn around and drive back or continue traveling into China or Russia. Those that return via plane or train donate their cars to the League of Adventurists who then pass them onto local charities.

Mongol Rally: Just a Bunch of Normal Disenfranchised Amateurs

Facing the unknown, the participants are mostly amateurs; just normal people disenfranchised with the humdrum drone of everyday life, yearning for something challenging to keep the innate restless beast at bay, if only for a short time. People from all backgrounds of all ages take part in this annual event; it was even chartered in the 2007 rally when Jack Osborne filmed his participation in a 1991 Fiat Panda for a television production.

This rally is by no means conventional for many reasons. First of all the cars must have an engine displacement of less than 1,000cc and bikes less than 125cc, which rules out all vehicles designed for such an epic voyage. Cars such as the Mini, the Renault 4, the Citroën 2cv and the Fiat 500 (and bikes such as the Yamaha RXS) are typical choices. However, exceptions to the above rule are considered “for vehicles of notable unusualness with high comedy value”; in fact the event organisers actually stipulate that the vehicle ‘must be generally considered to be crap’.

Secondly the participants have none of the comfort of support teams and have to cross the vast unpopulated areas of land, left only to their own devices. Thirdly there is no specified route, as each team can choose its own way from north through Russia to south through Turkey. And finally there is no prize for the winner; the sole golden trophy sought by the 200 contestants, is the golden cup of adventure.

Surprisingly so far, no one has been killed whilst attempting to complete this epic voyage. And my team mate and I sincerely hope not to change this astounding statistic. All routes are fraught with considerable danger and the very specification of the vehicles, with all odds stacked against them, makes for true adventure. Each year there are numerous accidents, muggings, hospitalisations and a worryingly high percentage of participants never even make it to Mongolia. (In fact the 2005 rally saw one team engaged, 3 people banned from Turkmenistan for a year, 2 teams robbed at knife point, 1 car snapped in half and another team cycling 200km to reach the finishing line after their car blew up.)

Mongol Rally: 3 Simple Rules

There are three basic rules to the rally. The first being the “on your own” rule that stipulates if you get into a ‘pickle’ you must fend for yourself. In fact prior to signing up for the challenge the organisers ask all participants to sign an agreement so that ‘you can’t sue our arses when you die’. Maybe it would have been more reassuring to use the word ‘if’ instead of ‘when’.

The second rule is the aforementioned ‘charity money rule’ whereby the participants must raise the £1,000 for the specified charities.

The third and final rule is the 1-litre car maximum. Aside from these the organisers note that participants ‘are free to sneak, bribe, cheat, connive and generally out-wit the world to get yourselves to the end’.

The widespread press coverage that this rapidly expanding rally attracts enables the participants to sell off space on the facade of their car to companies and organizations to emblazon with their logo. All money raised in this manner helps the ralliers to raise finances for their desired charities. For some companies however, sponsorship through material goods such as tents or tyres are preferable to money yet equally as important for the teams, some teams have even managed to get their vehicle donated.

So far, however, the Optimistic Fools have no car, no route and no funding as the application stage has only just come to a close. Designing the website, seeking sponsorship, finding a cheap or donated car and sourcing the route are all in their infant stages, but bit by bit this challenge, this life long dream, will become reality. To find out more about the ‘Optimistic Fools’ or to get involved in any way, keep watching the Viator website or visit www.mongolrally.com.

–Christoph Courth

Torii at the Inari Shrine

Kyoto and Tokyo are composed of the same letters, but that’s pretty much where the similarities end for these two cities. I like to think of them as twins separated at birth that have totally grown up into different people, kind of like the twins in the movie The Parent Trap. I recently returned to San Francisco from ten days in Kyoto and Tokyo, and was very pleased that I’d split my time between two such different parts of Japan. If you travel all the way to Japan and only see one, I think you’re missing out on half the country, make time for two! Only a couple of hours on the Shinkansen (bullet train) separate them, so why not?

Kyoto Tours & Things to Do

Sadly Tokyo was leveled by bombing in World War II, so the city is pretty new architecture wise, but you can experience the traditional architecture of Japan in and around Kyoto, where much of it remains intact. Stroll through the Gion district, bastion of shopping, nightlife and restaurants, as well as some wonderful examples of traditional wooden residences. The greater Kyoto area is rife with beautiful temples and

Daigo-ji’s 5 Story Pagoda

shrines. If you’re familiar with church fatigue in Europe, you could fall prey to its cousin, temple fatigue, in Kyoto. To see just the major temples and shrines would take you a couple of days, I recommend reading their descriptions and picking out the ones that will interest you the most based on your interest in art, gardens or historical architecture - some are better than others for each of these areas. Daigo-ji is great for historical building buffs (a rare original five story pagoda is on site) and has a beautiful garden, but there’s not much in the way of sculpture or art, and the sights are mostly outside, a factor in chilly or wet weather. Todaiji in Nara has an awesome Buddha sculpture and lovely buildings, but isn’t overly landscaped, the manicured gardens are nothing special.

If you can only see one temple/shrine and don’t have a particular interest, I recommend the Fushimi Inari Taisha (Inari stop on the JR line), the 4 kilometers of torii (big gates) snaking up through the misty, forested hills behind the shrine make for a gorgeous walk, with plenty of rest stops to examine the groups of memorials peppered along the way. And, even at the top, there are vending machines to dispense you a drink. The shrine is devoted to good harvests (now more focused on sake and soy sauce), and the official mascot is the fox, who peskily appears in much of the design of the shrine. I bought a magnet with foxes to stick on my car, it claims to protect me from accidents (so far, so good).

Kyoto’s got plenty of great restaurants, but after a long day of temple sightseeing, I recommend a beer and a nice, hot bowl of ramen from Santoka (near Sanjo station). Remember to slurp your noodles!

Kyoto is also great for day trips to the historical towns of Nara or Himeji, both of which I visited, but each of those is worthy of its own blog post, so stay tuned.

Tokyo Tours & Things to Do

Though Kyoto is a major city in its own right, it looks downright provincial when compared to the urban giant Tokyo. If Kyoto is all about history, Tokyo is all about the future. And so, embrace the future while you’re in Tokyo. Take in the view of the Blade Runner inspiring landscape from the Tokyo Tower, a skyscraper bar (the Park Hyatt bar is popular, but I prefer the less expensive option of the Park Hotel bar near Ginza), or the Tokyo Cityview at Roppongi Hills. And while the day time views are nice, the night views are stunning. Get mesmerized by the blinking red lights on nearly every tall building.

Explore the future of electronics, fashion and the generally silly items Japan is famous for by spending some time shopping. I spent more than I’d like to admit at the Tokyu Hands chain, but everyone loves their funky notebooks, hi tech pens and bizarre gadgets, so I think it was all worth it. If you’re into cameras, computers, video games, or Star Wars a stroll through Akihabara, the neighborhood for all things geeky in a good way, is a must.

A portable shrine at the Edo Museum

Two concessions to history are worth making in Tokyo: take in a kabuki show at Kabuki-Za in Ginza and visit the Edo Museum. The kabuki performances are amazing at Kabuki-Za, soak in the live music and marvel at the traditional, controlled movements of the art form. Kabuki is a serious tradition, even today the main kabuki players are all from the same family. For an education in Tokyo history, head to the Edo Museum. Tokyo was once named Edo (lesson #1), and the Edo Museum is the main way to relive the past of Tokyo, see artifacts and architecture from the founding of Edo to just post World War II (including the signed peace treaty that ended WWII). This is the first museum I’ve been to where you can actually play with some of the artifacts. Get a sense of what Tokyo life was like before the skyscrapers.

There’s plenty of advice out there about where to eat in Tokyo, and more options than I could ever hope to count, so I’ll just suggest (maybe demand) one thing. If you’re going to eat sushi, eat it at the Tsukiji fish market. There’s several restaurants within the market, and any that look good are going to be great. You’re never going to find sushi this fresh anywhere else, the fish is literally bought outside the restaurant’s door. Eat it!

While Kyoto and Tokyo are in many ways a study in contrasts, there’s some big similarities too, they both have great food, killer subway/train systems, cool shopping and fantastic taxi drivers. Visit both and you’ll see that Japan is a nation of contrasts, a country of beautiful wooden shrines and endless skyscrapers as far as the eye can see.

– Kelly G

Thinking about a visit to Japan? Check out 40+ things to do in Japan on Viator.
See more of Kelly’s photos of Inari, Kyoto and Tokyo and Jo’s Japan trip on Flickr.

New Year’s is a holiday made for fun. No presents to buy, no families to visit, and a vacation day - do you need more excuses to take a trip? Last year we headed to Joshua Tree, this year we opted to visit some friends who had relocated to Japan. New Year’s is a huge holiday in Japan, more like Christmas is for the United States, everyone visits family, and there’s lots of traditions. So goodbye to drinking champagne and watching fireworks, konichiwa to an Asahi beer and some extra long soba.

Hamamatsu Cave Dragon

New Year’s Eve starts off with a Shinkansen train ride from Kyoto, where we’d been staying for the last few days, to Hamamatsu where our friends Dave and Noriko live. You’re not going to find Hamamatsu listed in your Lonely Planet Japan. Industrial headquarters of Yamaha, as well as several car companies, it’s no tourist mecca. Dave drives us around a bit, and then takes us to the one local attraction, a cave. As caves go, it’s not bad, but you can see why it didn’t really merit a mention in the guidebook. I did dig the smoke snorting cave dragon near the ticket booth.

Now that all the sightseeing is done, we head up into the mountainside a bit to the town of Tenryu, where Noriko’s parents live. Everyone has been cleaning like crazy for the last few days, in Japan, a clean house is a must for New Year’s. As is a huge dinner with your family. The full Anzai clan appears, generally, I think, bemused at their American dinner guests. Noriko’s father is into hunting and fishing, and most of what we eat at dinner is a product of his efforts; wild boar shabu shabu, four kinds of sashimi and deer. He asks if we like the deer, and it is delicious, so we say yes. He says that really, the raw deer is better, we should try that, and he hops up to bring us some from his frozen stash. From one side, Dave whispers that we don’t have to eat the raw deer, and from the other side, Noriko and her sister, Yuko, whisper that it is really good, we should eat it. The raw deer (or shikshimi) appears, with some garlic dipping sauce, and yes, we eat it. And yeah, it’s not bad.

Kelly, Noriko, Jacob and Dave at dinner

Dinner is the main event, after that we are just waiting for midnight, or rather, 20 minutes to midnight. At 11:40, the Shinto shrine across the river starts the annual bell ringing. Noriko’s mom popped by first thing to pick up the wooden tickets for bell ringing spots five through fifteen (the first four are rung by the monks). So everyone is going to literally ring in the new year. Until then, children are played with, naps are taken, tea is drunk.

New Year’s Shinto Shrine

We bundle up and head across the river to the shrine. The first set of ringers line up in front of a massive bell, the old kind that to ring, you pull back and release a long wooden post that rams into the bell. I am nervous. Noriko and Dave give us the rundown. You step up, the guy by the bell yells for you to get ready, you pull the wood back, he’ll tell you to ring, you let go. Then clap your hands in prayer and bow. While the bell resonates, think of bad things leaving your head. The bell will ring 108 times, and by the end you should have a head cleared of 108 bad things to start the year off happy. I think by “bad things” Noriko meant negative thoughts, problems, stuff like that. The weather is freezing, and while we drink a little hot sake (I like these monks!) we watch the four monks and the Anzais ring the bell, and then its my turn to give it a go. I didn’t have the loudest ring, but everything went ok, and I think some bad things left my head (or maybe it was the sake). After we’ve rung the bell, we’re given a gift of special tea and a small year of the rat charm for luck. Shortly after my bell ringing, the clan hustles us home, apparently we have a date with soba at midnight.

Extra long soba, for long life, is traditionally eaten as the new year rolls over. We slurp our noodles and wish each other a “Happy New Year!” in multiple languages. Then we all go home to sleep.

New Year’s Day is all about two things: mochi and shopping. Mochi is pounded rice, and everyone eats it on New Year’s. Mochi is very thick and chewy, and several old people a year die from choking on it. Apparently this year is fortuitous, only a few choking victims and no deaths! We have some in soup. Then a trip to the mall to visit the huge New Year’s Day sales. Visiting a shrine is also a must for the first few days of the new year. As we head to bed I think about all the new things this new year, and hope for luck in 2008, or at least 108 less bad things in my head.

Happy New Year!

–Kelly G

PS - In Japan its 2008, but the year is also Heisei 20, standing for the 20th year of Emperor Akihito’s reign.