Europe

London is brimming with life, from the pounding underground nightclubs (catering for every music taste known to mankind) to the chic boudoirs bustling with sparkling Russians in Bond Street. Tourists and natives alike are spoilt for choice on how to spend their days, but rest assured the majority will cost you an arm and a leg.

Go to the loo in a public train station and you will be charged before your zip has even started its descent, sip a glass of water in a restaurant and you will be forced to take out a mortgage to cover the unwanted bubbles; even asking for directions sometimes costs you 20p.For the discerning cheapskate with a desire to spend the day without signing a cheque for a bottle of coke, there are many hidden activities which won’t cost you a penny.

Always look on the bright side of life

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“I have always been among those, who believed that the greatest freedom of speech is the greatest safety, because if a man is a fool, the best thing to dois to encourage him to advertise the fact by speaking.”

–Woodrow Wilson

For those who truly love humour — and are enraptured by the abnormal, captivated by intelligent discussion and would go out of their way to impress their girlfriend without even opening their wallet — I advise heading down to the ancient relic to democracy and free speech. That would be Speakers’ Corner based at the Marble Arch end of Hyde Park.

After a heavy Saturday night, both for your mind and your finances, there is no better way to prepare yourself both mentally and monetarily for the new week, than watching the numerous speakers and the crowds they lure. Why pay through the nose to see one of London’s world renowned theatre shows, when you can walk on stage and partake of the farce for free.

There is some contention as to when and why Speakers’ Corner came into being. Some believe it was post the 1855 Sunday Trading Bill riots, where an act of Parliament was passed to allow the space to be given over for public speaking. Others, however, date it much further back to 1108, when a notorious gallows was erected, where the tradition of granting a condemned man the right to utter his last word prior to hanging became the custom. Either the former or the latter this cornerstone of egalitarianism has over the centuries enticed historical icons such as Lenin, Marx and Orwell to modern day characters such as Ramzi Mohamed (one of the London bombers of 7/7).

* * * * *

“The right to be heard does not automatically include
the right to be taken seriously”
–Hubert Humphrey

An older lady dressed conservatively in a red top stands upon her portable step ladder and denounces the openly smirking crowd on their evil nature in having forsaken God in favor of their greedy search for knowledge. “Which God?” an onlooker screams back.

A preacher admonishes his dwindling flock

It’s a declaration she either doesn’t hear, or chooses not to acknowledge, as she launches into a boy from the watching horde, flanked by his father asks the lady how he can be evil, when he has never done anything wrong and still knows very little. She looks down at the smiling blond boy, then turns knowingly to his father whom she promptly threatens to punch for raising such an intelligent child. The crowd breaks into uproarious laughter and the discussion recommences.

Further down a tall, commanding, articulate, black American Muslim in bright white robes is busy arguing the merits of Islam and its persecution by Christianity and Judaism. A small bearded man from the on looking crowd chirps up that he himself is Jewish, assuring that the debate quickly turns into a circular farce with slanderous accusations flying to and fro like proverbial eggs in a school dining hall. The crowd grows as those from nearby speakers sift across to join the discussion, all the while presided over and kept in order by the Islamic speaker. Things turn heated and tempers increase as the decorous atmosphere could turn, but it never does. As the debate comes to a close, smiles break out and hands are shaken like boxers stepping out the ring, exhausted but elated.

Opposite stands a man, straight and erect unmoving like a soldier, eyes straight forward and arms to the side, further away from the masses and the flaring arguments, dressed in a pair of simple white chinos, a beige anorak and a fisherman’s cap looking lonely and forlorn. A large placard hangs by a string round his neck. ‘It’s going to get worse’ it boldly declares, a highly sobering thought for a Sunday afternoon, possibly a dejected a member of the Bush or Brown cabinet.

Standing ground against the argumentative crowd

A loud shout erupts from a crowd down the way, followed by whistles and claps. A muscular young man with dark shades and braids has won over the mob with his analysis of the Iraq war.

“How can the instigator of a war, deemed illegal by the UN, the international police force, then realistically become the imposers of peace and expect the defeated to become pacified!”

More claps erupt. A devil’s advocate, surely in cahoots with the eloquent speaker argues, “but Saddam had weapons aimed at the west and was killing his own people, it was a justified war.”

He smiles knowingly at the speaker who grins shaking his head, “you know I’m just your Huckleberry Tyrone, that’s all I am”. Tyrone, the speaker looks around to the endeared crowd, ‘have you heard of Kazakhstan? They hold the world’s third largest nuclear arsenal. Burma? Ruled by a government who kills innocent monks. I don’t see any green berets marching down their streets!”

Again the crowd erupts.

There is much to do in London but little is free and a visit to Speakers’ Corner has you walking away feeling both enlightened as to the peculiarities of our fellow man and mentally elated. The greatest gift of travel is to meet people and learn about the lives of others, yet it is seldom that we are granted access into their minds. Speakers’ corner is a rarity and allows instant discussion to happen between complete strangers, some of whom you would rather never meet again.

–Christoph Courth

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s London tours & things to do in London.

Traveling further afield from Amsterdam? You can try the well-known tourist destinations in Belgium like Bruges and Ghent, or Antwerp and Brussels. Yet there are several options for quicker day trips within the Netherlands, whether your tastes lean towards modern urbanism or pastoral tulip fields.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Rotterdam

Cube houses in Rotterdam

Rotterdam, less than 90 minutes by train from Amsterdam, is the largest port in Europe. The massive waterfront is worth a look, and boat tours are available (9.25 Euro for adults from the company Spido). The strategic harbor made the city a target of World War II bombing campaigns, thus nearly completely destroying the city center. What resulted was Rotterdam’s famous modern and experimental architecture on a scale not found in other major Dutch cities (or anywhere else for that matter).

The innovative 2,600-foot Erasmus Bridge, nicknamed ‘The Swan’, links the northern and southern sides of the city. The Cube Houses, are nearly impossible to describe (think a normal building tilted 45 degrees), but a definite must see in the city center. The quirky Kunsthal (translates as ‘art hall’) combines rotating exhibits of art, photography and fashion in a building designed by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. The Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (art, including Brueghel, Magritte and Dali) and Netherlands Architecture Institute are both located on the Museumpark, and are notable.

Located elsewhere are the Maritime Museum and Wereldmuseum (ethnographic art from throughout the world), they are also recommended. Rotterdam is thoroughly diverse with immigrants flowing from former Dutch colonies in Suriname and Indonesia, as well as émigrés from Morocco and Turkey. In January the city hosts the International Film Festival Rotterdam, and in July the North Sea Jazz Festival.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Utrecht

Utrecht, the Netherlands’ fourth-largest city and home to its largest university, is about 30 minutes by train from Amsterdam Centraal Station. It is also historically a Dutch religious center. The Dom Tower is a 368-foot church tower in the city center, from the top of which Amsterdam is visible on a clear day. A 17th-century storm destroyed part of the church while still under construction, and now the tower stands separated from the rest of the church. The city center alternates between medieval grandeur and a sort-of outdoor shopping mall.

Notable are the recessed cafes and restaurants that line canals (especially the Oudegracht) with the street level above. This is unique from canals in Amsterdam, which sit below the streetscape without the lower platforms lining their banks. There are several museums in Utrecht, but try to time a visit with the frequently free (or cheap) cultural happenings sponsored by the city, usually on Sundays. The Rietvald Schroder House is dates from 1924 and represents the De Stijl movement of art and architecture. It now houses a museum and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visits to the house are possible Thursday through Sunday, reservations are recommended, and shuttles run from Utrecht’s Centraal Museum.

Amsterdam Day Trips: The Hague

The Hague (or in Dutch, Den Haag) is about one hour by train from Amsterdam. It feels different than either Amsterdam or Utrecht, notably because of its few canals, wider streets and more open layout. It is the permanent home of both the International Criminal Court (ICC, which prosecutes individuals accused of war crimes for example) and the International Court of Justice (ICJ, which settles disputes between United Nations member states), and the location of Dutch parliament. Both courts are available for visits.

The ICJ is housed in the Peace Palace, built in the early 20th century with financing provided by Andrew Carnegie. In the ICC’s modern building one can watch a war crimes trial from a viewing box. Queen Beatrix resides in the Paleis Huis ten Bosch in a forest just outside the city. All international embassies are in The Hague, giving the city an orderly, diplomatic and bureaucratic feel. The city is home to the M.C. Escher Museum, displaying the labors of the well known graphic artist whose twisted and thought-provoking works are frequently featured in dorm-room posters the world over (7.50 Euro admission for adults).

Amsterdam Day Trips: A taste of the countryside

Cycling is the Dutch way to travel and the simplest excursion is to rent a bike, take the train 15 minutes west to Haarlem and then cycle through town, eventually meandering into the country side. Just west of Haarlem is Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, about 15 square miles of forest, dunes and beach. Biking around the country inevitably brings you into small rural villages which can be a treat in their own right.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Keukenhof Tulip Gardens

Tulips in Spring

In the spring, the tulip fields west of Amsterdam are a must see. Keukenhof, near the town of Lisse, is the largest flower garden in the world. It is literally a massive park (run by the Dutch flower industry with an industrial sized admissions charge, but impressive enough) that is open to the public only from the end of March through mid-May.

Buses travel to the site from nearby towns of Haarlem and Leiden, which are accessed by train from Amsterdam. Freelance touring of tulip fields on bike is also an option. In fact a ride through the country side anywhere between the cities of Haarlem and Leiden should bring you into a colorful palette of flowers. Stripes of tulips in all colors give the fields a surreal feeling. Again, the flowers only bloom seasonally, so spring is the best/only time to visit.

The same region in the summer is beach territory. In fact the area encompassing the tulip fields and coastline is colloquially called Duin en Bollenststreek (the Dune and Bulb Region). Large sand dunes and beaches run along the entirety of the coast. The best known resort area is Noordwijk aan Zee. Take a train from Amsterdam to Leiden or Voorhout for an easy connection.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Windmills

And if it is windmills you seek look no further than Zaanse Schans, about 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam. The area is something of an outdoor museum, with old homes, shops and most importantly, traditional windmills. The first Albert Heign is here (a Dutch supermarket chain, this landmark would be comparable to say the first McDonald’s or Hershey factory, but Dutch-ified).

–Benjamin Cunningham

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Amsterdam tours & things to do, from Amsterdam day trips to canal cruises.

Try this with your friends: say the name of a city they’ve been to and most likely they’ll come up with a one-word, sensory delight that sums the place up for them. For example, Lisbon – ‘oh, the fish; Munich – ‘ah, the beer’; Paris – ‘ooh, the croissants’. Well here are a few of my own favourites, in no particular order as television judges say. These are things that make me get dreamy eyed at the mere mention of that place’s name. And yes, they are all food-related, so… what of it?

What I love about Nice, France

Fenocchio, ice cream to die for in Nice

Ice cream. Not the first thing I expected to find when I recently went to the south of France. And yes, the views are nice, the water really is very blue, the people are stylish, the city is pretty, there is art everywhere and so on and so on. But the real jewel we uncovered was Fenocchio, an ice cream place.

We found two branches in the old town, one quite close to our apartment (luckily or unluckily, depending whether you side with saving shoe leather or calories: we would have walked a fair distance for this ice cream, I assure you). There were about 90 flavours, seriously. My first night I had a scoop of violet and one of jasmine. Yes, I ate flower flavoured, purple food. And wow!

After that we began referring to each day as either a one scoop or two scoop day, depending on how far we had walked so how much we thought we deserved. Most days, strangely, we deserved two scoops. In five days we worked our way through fig, cinnamon, chocolate peppermint, ginger, rose, lemon meringue… I have to stop before I book another trip to Nice. (One word of warning: avoid the crepes at Fennocio, definitely not their specialty.)

What I love about Salzburg, Austria

Sachertorte. This world-famous chocolate cake was developed in Vienna in 1832 by the second-year apprentice chef Franz Sacher. He worked in the court kitchens of Prince Metternich and on the day of an important dinner the head chef was ill, so Sacher whipped up the first Sachertorte. In 1876, his son Eduard began the first Hotel Sacher and registered a trademark on the Sachertorte.

The author, researching a piece of dessert

I visited Salzburg to indulge a childhood whim to be a von Trapp for a day and stumbled over the Hotel Sacher almost by accident: it had a nice terrace overlooking the river, the old town, and, oh, a bridge made famous in The Sound of Music. On the table was a history of the Sachertorte so we thought we’d best try it. Sublime! Truly amazing.

Even if you’re not a complete chocoholic. And the tea they served, simply named Sacher Tea, was also great. A combination of bergamot (earl grey), jasmine and black tea, it had me heading round to the hotel’s shop to buy a tin. Apart from the tea, the shop sold cake. Lots and lots of Sachertorte, shipping it all over the world.

When I was in there a girl was having a whole cake sent home to her family in the USA; that’s how good it is! I toyed with sending a couple of pieces to my chocolate addicted sister-in-law but really couldn’t afford it. I did send her a photo of the piece I ate though.

What I love about Istanbul, Turkey

Lokum (a.k.a. Turkish Delight). I know it sounds really obvious. But Turkish Delight made properly is a completely different taste sensation to the overly sweet and cloying stuff I grew up with. I dragged my feet a little when my travel companion, Steven, wanted to find the original Turkish Delight shop opened in 1777 by Haci Bekir (on Hamidiye Caddesi, near the Egyptian Spice Market) but I gave in, I mean he had just made a full-day trip to Gallipoli with me (9 hours in the car), and the map assured us this shop was only two blocks away. Although two blocks in Istanbul can still be quite an adventure – the traffic!

We found the shop quite easily and it was a delight. The men in there gave us some samples to try and, more from a lack of language and inbuilt politeness than genuine desire, I stuck an apple-flavoured square in my mouth. Oh my! The taste sensation. It tasted like apples! Really! I bought a box. And the rose! Wow! Flavours derived from the real natural article – apples, rose petals etc – it can’t be beaten. Why have we put up with artificial flavouring for so long? Evil incarnate. Anyway, we ended up with about four boxes of Turkish Delight in our luggage and it’s not light. But I would almost have ditched a pair of shoes for it. Almost.

What I love about Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Apple Cake. High tinned, full of apple and cinnamon, thin cakey crust, served with lashings of cream – divine! And the best one is at the Noordermarkt on Prinsengracht. You can go there during the week and sit outside in summer or at a communal table inside during winter.

But the time all the Amsterdammers go is Saturday morning when the Noordermarkt is full of stalls selling organic food. It’s not a huge market but it is quality through and through and the place to be. The queue outside the café with the apple cake makes it easy to find, as do all the people with slices of apple cake in various stages of demolition. Do not eat breakfast: the slices are generous. And do not dare to order anything else but apple cake and a drink – the demand is so high, there are presliced apple cakes covering the counter and the staff run to keep up with the demand. Oh, and it’s counter-service, no table service at this time of day so join the queue. Then hop on your bike to ride off the excess you just gained – although with that much apple involved, can it really be bad for you?

What I love about Venice, Italy

Hot chocolate. Yes, hot chocolate is available around the world and many countries stake a claim to it: Holland, Belgium, Switzerland. But No! Italy wins my vote. This hot chocolate is so thick, the spoon stands up in it, really!

The first one I had was in Calle Rasse, a small backstreet behind San Marco; a rainy day, the acqua alta threatening our ankles, we took refuge in one of those narrow sandwich bars the Italians do so well. We had no idea that life was about to change. But it did.

I have been back to this place every visit since and the quality is maintained. I have cheated on this, my first hot chocolate love, by dating a couple of others in Piazza San Marco itself but have only been disappointed. Once I tried the Caffe Florian. They’ve been making hot chocolate since 1720 so they should have it down to a fine art. And if it wasn’t for the Calle Rasse experience, I probably would have been impressed. Then I tried crossing the square to Quadri, but it was a similar experience. And eating or drinking anything on the Piazza San Marco is going to be a costly exercise: we’re talking a 10 euro hot chocolate as opposed to 4 euros in Calle Rasse. Besides, can anything really match the perfection of your first love?

What I love about London, England

High tea at The Ritz Hotel. Elegant, calm in the midst of crazy London dirt and traffic. Established as a tradition during the Victorian era, high tea in London is not cheap but then you won’t need dinner afterwards so it’s totally practical: an elegant room, pages of tea choices, and three tiered towers of delicate sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and little cakes – yum.

There are other high teas in London but the Ritz has the history; it’s also the only one I’ve been to so I can’t bear witness to any others. (Editor’s note: also try high tea at the Grosvenor House.) And the Ritz on Piccadilly is just one of those must-have London experiences. High tea is served in the elegant Palm Court which is all columns and chandeliers and has a dress code that bans jeans and trainers; it really feels like London as it once was – or still is if you have money, a title or are Madonna. You do need to book well ahead if possible – they recommend six weeks - unless of course you are moneyed, titled or Madonna.

A couple of quickies to finish with: In Prague have a Budweiser beer – a completely different flavour to the Bud in the rest of the world. In Bratislava try Becherovka, a kind of herb-based liquor. Delicious but can prove potent. You were warned. In Zagreb try the Paprenjak, pepper flavoured biscuits. Sublime. Also the Bajadera chocolates made by local company Kras. Mmmm. And finally, a second bite at Istanbul: Fish in bread with onions, served directly from boats tied to the dock just under the Galata Bridge. Locals everywhere squatting on low, no frills plastic chairs. Cheap, delicious, authentic. Do it.

–Philippa Burne

The Disillusioned Dubliner isn’t usually one for giving romantic advice, but here’s a pearl of wisdom for all you lonely hearts out there: Get yourself a lover from somewhere else.

Katie Lincoln comes from a small fishing village (I know every village says that, but you can take my word for it, people fish there) called Ardmore on the south coast of County Waterford, not far from the Cork border. It’s not a place that features in most travel books. In fact the Fodor’s Ireland book I co-write actually excluded it all together - a fact I’m about to remedy. But as far as the DD is concerned Ardmore is a little gem.

West Gable of St Declan’s Cathedral, Ardmore

The DD looks three key things about any ‘tourist’ (why am I so reluctant to be associated with that word? It’s not a disease?) place he visits.

1. Openness: I like places that you can roam around at your leisure that allow unmonitored access to their sights.
2. Freeness: I don’t like the idea of paying for something that is either a natural or a public treasure. Or maybe I just don’t like to pay for anything.
3. Emptiness. I like a place that’s not too busy. I might be a ‘tourist’ but I don’t need to be bumping into too many more of the damned critters.
4. Guinness: There better be a good place to get a pint.

Ardmore is four for four.

Declan to Kevin: I was here first

Glendalough, the 6th century monastic settlement in the Wicklow Mountains, is one of the most popular visitor attractions in Ireland. They have a visitor centre (with a small charge) and lines of eager pilgrims waiting to see the sights.

One hundred years before Saint Kevin first had his notion to run off to the wilds of Glendalough, the intrepid Saint Declan established the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland in - you’ve guessed it - Ardmore, where he lived in the period 350-450 AD (yes, he even beat Saint Patrick to the punch). I can safely say very few Irish people know this fact, and so the pilgrims are shockingly few that visit such wonders as Declan’s original Holy Well; the 8th-century Oratory located in the ancient graveyard; the beautifully proportioned 12th-century round tower; and, most spectacular of all, the mysterious, entrancing carved figures on the west gable of St. Declan’s Cathedral.

All these wonders and not a visitor centre or ticket booth in sight. You are free to wander as you please (you are expected to show due respect to the sights, of course) and absorb the very first glimmers of Christianity in Celtic Ireland.

The Disillusioned Dubliner & Moll head to Goat Island, Ardmore

But if Ardmore was just an early Christian Disneyland minus the security, DD wouldn’t be getting so excited about the place. It is also set in one of the most physically impressive parts of the country.

Located on a beach itself, a horde of better, emptier, sandy beaches are located nearby, with the best of them being the secluded and beautifully named Goat Island (not an island and not a goat in sight). The short walks to these beaches along the small country roads and paths set you up nicely for a brisk (translate ‘brisk’ as ‘freezing cold’) but wonderfully exhilarating dip in the Irish Sea.

Alternatively the wonderful Cliff Walk around the back of the town takes you along some seriously sheer cliffs (great for spotting birds and seals and even a few rumoured whales) with amazing views out back across the bay. Katie Lincoln’s mother informed me she was walking this path late one summers night - it was actually midsummer’s night - when she heard a strange beating noise in a field nearby. She went over and what she saw was a badger and her cubs playing some kind of running and jumping game. She spent 20 minutes watching them before heading on your way. Just in case this doesn’t impress you, badgers are notoriously shy and a sighting is a rare threat. Grandmother Lincoln, who has lived in the area all her long life, emphasized the fact by letting me know she had never managed to see a badger in the flesh.

Ireland on the cheap, with fiddling farmers

Reilly’s: One of the great bars

The local beach do bring summer time holiday makers from nearby Cork and you’ll see their neat little caravans parked in camp site not far from town.

But the DD - who was raised on two-week caravan holidays himself - finds something refreshing and warm about these good value, do-it-yourself holiday makers refusing to be trapped by the monster that is ‘Rip-Off’ Ireland.

That’s another positive about Ardmore, you can do it on the cheap.

And then there is Reilly’s. It only opens two nights a week - the owner just couldn’t be arsed bothering the other five - but it still has to be one of the finest pubs in… well anywhere. On Tuesdays its ‘Fiddling Farmers’ when locals from the town and surrounding countryside come along and sing a song, recite a poem, play a tune or whatever.

Card players in Reilly’s

The same men (and an occasional woman) have been coming for years and I’m told they always sing the same song. If you decide to go along a try your luck just be careful you not stepping on any toes by stealing another man’s anthem.

On Fridays it’s cards night. The game is Forty Five and you won’t be asked to play as the same bunch of farmers and locals have played the game for years ( I suppose a funeral or two must usher in some new blood?).

But just sit down with on of the top class pints of Guinness, pass a little time admiring the wild collection of radical political posters and pamphlets that adorn the walls, and watch these skilled and wily card sharks as they try to destroy each other without once dropping the smile from their face. And great faces they are, full of expression and smarts and worth watching for the dramatic changes as the fortune of the cards rises and falls.

Anto? He’s so totally D4

Here’s a warning, bring your thick skin. The owner, Michael Reilly, has a sharp tongue on him and he just might turn it on you with a searing question or two. Keep your politics to yourself unless you enjoy a good old fashioned disagreement - on second thoughts speak freely and enjoy the fun. He gave the DD one look (remember I’m an outsider going out with a local girl) and muttered the word ‘Gonzaga’ under his breath. Gonzaga is a very posh and expensive boarding school where the privileged of Dublin send their kids. I was half flattered, half enraged that he could possibly mistake my working-class, Northside roots for some spoilt, Dublin 4 brat. I must be doing my hair wrong?

The town also happens to the be the starting point for St. Declan’s Way, a long distance (three days in total but you can do a short section of it) pilgrim’s walk that ends up at the majestic Rock of Cashel.

And that’s Ardmore. Try keep it to youself.

–Anto Howard

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Ireland, Dublin tours, and day tours to Glendalough and Wicklow.

Editor’s Note: Read the latest on the Optimistic Fools preparation for the 2008 Mongol Rally. Viator is pleased to be a sponsor of the Optimistic Fools rally team, on their journey to complete the 2008 Mongol Rally from London to Ulan Bator, Mongolia. The race starts July 19, so the next time we hear from them it will be from the road. Good luck, you Optimistic Fools.

“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The
great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly; to
come down off this featherbed of civilization, and find the globe granite
underfoot and strewn with cutting flints”
–Robert Louis Stevenson

Mongol Rally: Gearing Up

People are regularly confused as to why my teammate and I would want to drive 10,000 miles from London to Mongolia? What perplexes them even more is our choice of vehicle, ignoring setting free one of the many SUVs from a life of boredom on inner city roads, in favor of a car built in the same decade as flower power, equipped with an engine equally as languorous. I long for a little Robert Louis Stevenson to carry around in my top pocket, to bring out whenever one of these dumbfounded faces gazes back at me, to explain with greater lucidity and clarity than I ever could, the true wonders of travel.

Teammate Oliver tinkering with Irene’s underbelly

It’s like living in a dream world, where everything is the same, yet slightly askew where one is less a participant and more a voyeur. In the thoughts of the Dice Man, such is ‘romanticism to academics yet simple neurosis to physiologists’. Either neurotic or a dreamer, as explained in my previous Mongol Rally articles for Viator, a friend and I, the Optimistic Fools, are intending to embark upon one of life’s last greatest adventures, the Mongol Rally. Leaving London’s Hyde Park on the 19th July, our aim and goal is to arrive, perhaps a trifle optimistically, 17 countries, two continents and a few time zones later, in Ulan Bator, the capital of Mongolia.

We will be undertaking this race in a circa 1965 sky blue Renault 4 called Irene, donated to the Fools by a marvelously generous gentleman from Guernsey. A trusty little car, Irene has spent the vast majority of her long uneventful life negotiating the small highlanes and bylanes of the tiny isle of Sark, part of the Channel Islands. Ripped from the cosy warmth of barnyard retirement she has been tickled into action by these two fervent gentlemen.

A Worthy Farce

All of you reading this article will, by the very nature of the readership of Viator, will have something burning deep inside of you yearning to break out, some hidden Columbus wanting to rupture through the surface of the humdrum drone of everyday life in search of untainted adventure. This race, however, is not just a simple jaunt designed to satiate the itch in the feet of disenfranchised, intrepid, pseudo Marco Polo’s. Quite the contrary, by way of its very blue print, which was drawn up in the architectural adventure head quarters of the Adventurists in Bristol, England, it is much more.

The actual intention is to draw on this innate animalistic yearning and to spur people to act in a foolhardy and reckless manner in the hope that wallets will open and funds will flow from those who respect lunacy, envy boldness and value adventure to support the worthy charities championed by the 200 audacious teams.

These particular Fools have decided to take on the 10,000 miles in the name of 4 highly reputable aid organisations, stemming from all corners of the globe. With Mercy Corps and the Christina Nobel Children’s Foundation in Mongolia, the PCRF in the UK and the Children’s University in Mexico we have been hot on the trail of seeking as much cash as possible to help our elected causes. Through sponsorship by companies both large and small, to generous donations from friends and family the Fools and in deed all their fellow teams are the mere stimulus for the stream of funds to pour down to those in need. (Editor’s Note: If you haven’t already donated to the Optimistic Fools’ cause, click here to donate!.)

We have teamed up with Berocca (the leader in effervescent vitamins), Viator.com (the Cassious Clay of the travel writing world), Telegraph (2007 champion of beers 6X) and Shambala (the Michelangelo of the landscaping world). Through these partnerships we have managed to secure sufficient funds to more than cover the minimum £1,000 needed to be raised for the two chosen Mongolian charities. With the help of friends, family and well-wishers we aim to exceed that for the PCRF and the Children’s University. Therefore we are continuing to seek donations, however small, to guarantee our charities receive a more than worthwhile sum. But it is not just their funds that will help, Berocca vitamins will help keep us sharp and healthy whilst on the road, Viator have offered to send relief packs for us to pick up on route and Shambalas Marc Austin designed the Fools remarkable logo.

A Traveling Fool

In the spirit of the ancient Mongolian proverb — “A traveling fool is better than a sitting wise person” — the Fools will do everything necessary to get to Mongolia. Should our trusty steed, Irene, crumble into disrepair in the highlands of Central Europe or the plains of Kazakhstan we are willing to do what ever it takes, from bicycle to donkey, to cross the finishing line in Ulan Bator.

However as this folly is a traditional race turned upside down we will ensure that so too are our preconceptions. Instead of choosing the fastest 4×4 available we have chosen a car whose rust ridden underbelly would make Keith Richards innards look fresh and healthy, instead of opting for the fastest route the Fools have chosen the hardiest and so instead of striving to come first the Fools will look to be last across that finish line. If it means that we can raise more money for our favorite charitable organisations yet missing the jubilous champagne bearing crowds and welcoming ceremonies in favor of tumble weed and perhaps a sip of fermented yak’s milk all will be worthwhile.

After having chosen the tentative route as noted in the previous article we soon changed our minds to include the primeval forests of Slovenia, the rocky Adriatic coastline of Croatia, one of the worlds newest countries Montenegro, the mountains of Albania, the rugged valleys of Macedonia, into Greece to dip our toes off the beaches of Thessalonica before heading back onto the previous course that will see us through Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Russia and finally Mongolia.

In order to prepare for the cultures that we will encounter I have poured over the Koran, battled through Crime and Punishment, studied Genghis Kahn and learnt how to say ‘hello’ in 10 different languages. The only hurdle left for us to leap is appraising ourselves with the inner workings of the wonderful Irene. To travel lightly and cheaply we will carry little more than a fishing rod, a tent, a water purifier and a 1954 portable gramophone complete with a selection of 78 records to while away the evenings spent in remote hills, cooking over an open fire, a far cry from the tube centred lifestyles we now lead. In the wise words of William Blake ‘Great things are done when men and mountain meet. This is not done by jostling in the street’.

–Christoph Courth

To find out more about this foolish adventure visit the Optimistic Fools over at their own website: www.optimisticfools.co.uk

So the south of France, the Cote d’Azur. I know what you’re thinking: expensive, clichéd. Think again.

I agreed to go there for a week’s holiday with a friend mainly because I’d never been and it’s one of those famous places that’s in all the books and movies and gossip magazines. Oh, and because I really like travelling with her. But as the time grew closer, I began to worry about money and, quite honestly, the standard of my wardrobe. Hey, Brad and Angelina are there growing their latest baby; this is no shabby shorts and functional-sandals beach holiday.

The south of France / Cote d’Azur / French Riviera. Call it what you like, it’s all beautiful.

How wrong I was. I discovered that the south of France is one of the most beautiful places on earth, plus it’s relaxed, fun, affordable and very, very welcoming.

Nice is nice, even via Toulon

We flew into Toulon Airport on a cheap Ryanair flight from London. And sometimes what you gain on the airfare, you lose on time and the cost of all the other transfers. It’s a small airport but the handiest if you’re staying in St Tropez (my advice: don’t unless you are very wealthy) but not so good if you’re staying further down the coast, which we were. We had to do the airport bus into Toulon itself, which took half an hour or so. It took us to the station from which we needed to catch a train to Nice, where we had booked an apartment for the week. Lesson learned: Nice has its own airport and easyJet flies there cheaply.

But the trains to Nice were fairly regular and took about two hours give or take. It was lovely to see all the beautiful countryside and begin to fully appreciate the mountainous and coastal glory that is the Cote d’Azur, and pass through legendary towns like Antibes and Cannes. And the train had my favourite dogbox configuration so we ended up chatting to a charming French man in our compartment who worked in Monaco and offered to show us around there a few days later. He gave us his card and we promised to call. Unfortunately, soon after we got off the train in Nice, he texted my friend having found her luggage tag on the floor – not such a good sign… we didn’t call.

Nice is nicer with a good apartment

Looking over Nice. That water is soooo blue.

Our apartment was fantastic (booked via nicepebbles.com). Much better than staying at a hotel because we had space and privacy and could self-cater, which is not only a must in a town with such great bakeries and cheeses etc, but is also cheaper.

The apartment was right in the heart of the old town but very modern. We had the full experience of waking to the sound of calling French voices (usually from the garbage men with their noisy truck at 6 am which took some of the romance out of it!), then heading down to the local bakery for the BEST croissants and baguettes I have truly ever tasted (Artisan Boulanger, Rue du Marene). These things were addictive and the bread so light I’m sure there was no danger of putting on weight…

We got into the habit of buying a baguette every morning and making up cheese and salad rolls to take on our daily excursions. That sounds so dull but when the cheese is that good and the supermarket is full of wonderful things like pear confit and fig puree to accompany your cheese, it becomes heavenly. I actually brought small jars of these things home with me. I’m sure the French would laugh at the idea – like taking their equivalent of peanut butter probably, but one country’s commonplaces are this traveller’s joy.

Yet Nice is nicest 1 euro at a time

The best bit of advice we were given is that all the regional buses in this part of the world now cost 1euro per trip. So it was really affordable to explore the whole coast. The bus terminal is just on the edge of old town. Armed with baguettes, and comfortable shoes (I had to buy some flat shoes having only taken heels in anticipation of a life of glamour), most mornings found us hopping on a bus to somewhere fabulous. Actually, that’s a little untrue – by the time we’d eaten croissants and had a bit of time exploring Nice’s old town, walking along the beachfront or up the hill (known as the Chateau) for coffee with a view, we usually didn’t make a start on our day trips until early afternoon.

The best thing about catching buses was seeing the landscape and the houses. And wow, is the water blue in that part of the world! Cote d’Azur is no lie – it is the bluest water I have ever seen.

Day trip to Eze

First we visited Eze, a gorgeous fortified, medieval hilltop town perched high about the sea. It is all winding, narrow streets and steps (no cars), and stone houses. Right up the top is a wonderful cactus garden, well worth the entry fee (about 5 euros I remember), and including a contemplation garden of large wooden recliners where you can lie and stare straight down along the coast – divine! From there we spied umbrellas on a terrace and felt the lure of a drink with the best view in the world.

Touring Eze from Nice

We wound our way back through Eze and found the Chateau Eza Hotel. It only has about 10 rooms and we were able to have a hot chocolate on the terrace. Around us people sipped champagne attended to by uniformed waiters, but hot chocolate was more our budget and it was very good, presented in a white pot and delicious. And the view… worth the price (which was less outlandish than it could have been). You don’t need to be wealthy to live the life of the famous and glamorous, even if just for a moment.

The trip back was less charming – a trick to learn is that the last buses are often quite early – about 7.15pm in this case, and don’t miss it or you are stuck. Taxis are few and far between and quite expensive.

Another trick when visiting Eze (and you Absolutely Must!) is to catch the right bus. Don’t get the Eze en Mer (or something like that) – it will take you to the part of the town next to the water, at the bottom on the hill. Then you have an hour or more walk straight up the hill on a stony track favoured by the philosopher Nietzsche. Unless you are part mountain goat, I don’t recommend it. We lucked out by getting on the bus to Eze itself – kindly timetables not good planning. (You can also book a tour to Eze and Monaco from Nice over on the Viator website.)

Day trip to Antibes & Monaco

Another place we visited was Antibes, which is a lovely little town. One of our primary reasons for going there was the Picasso Museum – he spent a lot of time painting there. Unfortunately it was closed for renovation – and had been for two years! The pitfalls of buying old guidebooks secondhand! Still the town was worth a visit and I got some great presents for friends. Oh and the museum reopens later this year. Missed it by that much…

We also did the obligatory tour to Monaco. This place of legend lured us with promises of fast cars and fabulous fashion. Accordingly we put on our prettiest dresses and favourite shoes, mounted our budget bus and headed to the place fabled to change lives. Well, it did. I hated it so much I had my first cigarette in years! Yep, don’t go there.

I think part of the issue was that they were setting up for this year’s Grand Prix so it was noisy and dusty and difficult to walk around. I was also amazed by just what a concrete jungle it is. Apartment buildings jumbled on top of one another and nothing pretty to be seen in any direction. Another problem was no local knowledge – such a shame the man from the train failed us. We toured the royal castle – worth it for the Mills and Boon style 1980s portrait of Princess Grace and family, had an awful hot chocolate, got confused at the casino but drank expensive Cosmopolitans to numb the shame, then caught the bus back to our beloved Nice for a great dinner and to wonder why we ever left.

Eating & Drinking in Nice

A couple of recommendations for dinner in Nice: In the marketplace just back from the beach front there are lots of seafood restaurants and the food looks wonderful. The prices also filled us with wonder. Instead I had a delicious plate of moule (mussels) at the much cheaper, more local Socca café. (on a corner in Rue Mascoina). Communal benches on the street, a window you order from, a simple menu and some of the most delicious things you’ve tasted. Try the pissaladier – the local onion, olive and anchovy pizza – yum!

Also go to Oliviera. On the Rue du Collet, this little restaurant specialises in olive oils and with each course the fabulous owner/host/enthusiast brings you a different oil to taste. They sell them too (naturally) but the large size of the bottle was a bit of a disincentive.

Another favourite for local food and atmosphere was a café called Gesu in Rue de Gesu opposite the church – fabulous friendly service and the young boys at the next table even bought us Cognacs. Follow it up with one of 90 or so flavours of ice-cream from Fennocio – I recommend the violet, or the rose, or the ginger, or the cinnamon…

–Philippa Burne

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in the French Riviera, from things to do in Nice to day trips from Cannes.

Thessaloniki, Greece’s second city, is a mélange of culture and activity. Though a Turkish city until1912 (as part of the Ottoman Empire), Thessaloniki is now most definitely Greek. It is a major destination and port entry to the Balkans, specifically the former-Yugoslavia. There is a hint of South Beach in the atmosphere, and a 2007 New York Times story called it “the Seattle of the Balkans.”

The waterfront in Thessaloniki

Remnants of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires are everywhere. Until World War II it was home to a major Jewish community which comprised more than half of the city’s population into the early 20th Century. History is unavoidable, beaches are nearby, the city center sits directly on a major harbor and offers pervasive nightlife.

On a clear day Mount Olympus is visible across the Thermaic Gulf. One could have a good vacation without doing much of anything, strolling around, shopping, eating seafood,stopping periodically in any one of the infinite cafés. But there are plenty of options for the ambitious as well. The city is serviced by an international airport with flights from major European capitals, as well as trains and buses. Trains from Athens can take anywhere from 4-6 hours. (Or book a day trip or multi-day trip to Thessaloniki from Athens over on the Viator website.)

Thessaloniki: Getting Oriented

Aristoteleous is the main square in Thessalonik’s city center and a good way to orient yourself. It sits on the water with a pedestrian shopping street (of the same name) running in the other direction. Running perpendicular is a major shopping street, Tsimiski. Shopping in Thessaloniki is on par with many other major European cities with both well known luxury brands and small boutiques heavily represented, but bargains are hard to find.

Strolling around the city center one frequently happens upon archaeological excavation sites. Thessaloniki is in the process of constructing a subway system, but the process if regularly slowed as digging unearths remnants of the region’s ancient past and such relics are likely to remain on display within the metro system once it becomes active (the target date for completion is 2012). For now an extensive bus system is the best way to navigate the city if not by foot. Taxis are also accessible and reasonably priced (15 Euros from the city center to the airport).

Thessaloniki: Eat, Drink, Dance

Plateia Athonos is full of traditional tavernas buzzing with crowds at night and is good place to enjoy a slow dinner in the evening at outdoor tables. Order ouzo and several small dishes to share. The scene can be a bit chaotic at meal time, but that is part of the fun. Must eat or drinks on any visit to Thessaloniki include calamari and grilled octopus (any kid of seafood really), tzatziki (a yogurt and cucumber sauce) and the standard Greek favorite, gyros.

Nikis Avenue runs along the harbor and is packed with cafés and bars. Most waterfront drinking spots seem some sort of hybrid between trendy club and café. Electronic music often pulses inside, but step outside to one of the sidewalk tables for a more low-volume experience and sea air. Drinks, in general, are not cheap, but usually come with snacks and when one drinks like a local you will be sipping and sitting for awhile. A Thessalonian favorite is the frappé, a milky iced coffee slush, giving a refreshing caffeine boost. Themaikos is one the oldest bars in the area and hosts DJs at night. Elvis is another such hot spot nearby.

For something slightly more active, a popular club worth checking out is LIEBE. In the summer, floating boat bars make tours of the harbor. Omilos is a café sitting on a small pier just off the main strip with outdoor couches and water lapping practically up to the table. Enter the gate near the port area for the Kitchen Bar, an upper-crust restaurant that also has café tables outside for drinks.

Things to Do in Thessaloniki

Do not miss the party scene or café culture, but for some intellectual stimulation during your days, there are many museums in town tochoose from. The landmark of the city is the White Tower. A waterfront castle-like structure, it dates from the Ottoman times and formerly guarded the city’s sea wall as well as serving as a military station and prison amongst other things. It now houses part of a Byzantine museum and provides a stunning view of the harbor.

Byzantine churches dot the city center and are not to be missed. Most date from between the 5th and 14th centuries. The best know of these are Agia Sophia and St. Demetrios. The founder of modern Turkey, Kemal Ataturk, was born in Thessaloniki (when it was still part of the Ottoman Empire). His former residence is a museum with free admission.

The Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum is also highly recommended. There are exhibits dating from the region’s prehistoric period, but prominently featured are remnants from the 7th century Kingdom of Macedonia and displays dating from Thessaloniki’s days as part of the Roman Empire.

Thessaloniki Day Trips & Excursions

The three fingers of the nearby Halkidiki peninsula (one big peninsula with three little peninsulas on it) are frequent destinations for foreign tourists and Thessalonians alike. The second finger, Sithonia, is the best known for its beaches (the first finger is called Kassandra).

During the warm months the highway from Thessaloniki to the beach is packed each Friday and Sunday evening. The village of Nikiti is a combination of beach homes, small resorts, seaside restaurants and beaches with the older village a bit off the beaten path. In recent years it has become a favorite of German vacationers. The third finger of this peninsula (the most easterly) is called Athos and is home to 20 Eastern Orthodox Monasteries. The area is only accessible by boat and with special permission from church officials. No women are admitted to the area which has a full name translating as the “Autonomous Monastic State of the Holy Mountain.”

The town of Vergina, about 50 miles southwest of Thessaloniki is home to the tombs of ancient Macedonian kings, including Philip II, Alexander the Great’s father. The Vergina Museum now exposes this area to travelers, on the site of the former ancient capital city of Aigai.

Viewable from the city, when it is not too humid (which in the summer it often is) is Mount Olympus. The mythological mountain and the nearby village and archaeological site/museum at its base, Dion, are about 60 miles from Thessaloniki. The site was a traditional venue for paying homage to Zeus.

–Benjamin Cunningham

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours to Greece, things to do in Athens, and day trips from Athens, including a multi-day trip to Thessaloniki.

Dima from Russia, the 2008 winner

Would it be wrong to base future travel plans on the Eurovision song contest?

Come on, would it be really really so wrong? Isn’t the entry of each country saying something important about that country, representing the popular face of the nation, its culture and its current popular heroes? And face it past winners have included ABBA and Celine Dion – can it be so misleading about nations?

I don’t think so. Hence, this is where I will and won’t be travelling in the next year based on the 2008 Eurosong Contest held this May in Belgrade, Serbia.

Travels by Eurovision: Winners, Losers & Pink Stilettos

Montenegro: perhaps; they seemed cute, sincere, somehow naïve. I like them.

Israel: a country where the men forget to wear shirts under their waistcoats. Unlikely destination due to this outmoded crime against fashion.

Estonia: unlikely due to a healthy fear of crazy people who hold up large images of onions and cake while singing. Also the women seem to only be clad in bras – is it warm enough for this that far north?

Moldova: definitely not - the song was bad and the performance involved a teddy bear, a couch and a trumpet. Too weird for my comfort.

San Marino: perhaps, especially now that I have become aware it is a country in its own right, and found it on an map. It’s in Italy – did you know that before Eurovision?

Belgium: Brussels was recently voted the most boring city in Europe and their entry was an excellent reflection of this. Sorry, no visit.

Azerbaijan: another geography lesson from Eurovision – I had to check an atlas to see if it was even in Europe and I still think it looks more like Asia. But I loved them: angel wings, crazy instruments, passion. Count me in.

Slovenia: well I’ve been there and I didn’t see any women dragging men around by chains… perhaps this is a recent trend.

Norway: I had this on my list and have now taken it off. This was the blandest, most global village, uncharacteristic song of anywhere sung by four scary blond women in matching blue frocks. Clone central. No.

Poland: I lived there for a while and didn’t see any badly blue-frocked mermaids with crazily perfect white teeth. Then again I didn’t get to the coast up north. And I won’t.

Ireland: a country which clearly felt sending their entry by mail was cheaper than a plane fare: it was a puppet. Too much drinking going on in Ireland I fear.

Andorra: I admit I had to check where this was on the map: high in the Pyrenees between Spain and France. Rocking location and great gold C3PO in bondage dress. Visit a must.

Bosnia & Herzogovina: I have been there and am glad to report not having seen all these old brides and young people doing scary dancing. No going back there.

Armenia: a young diva girl and her backing singer boys. Lots of fringing on her dress. Did not move me one way or another so probably won’t make the trek this year.

The Netherlands: Amazonian, bicycle-fit women who could actually sing. Respect. All in black though which does not reflect my memory of the great fashion there. The again everyone wore jeans all the time for that bike riding.

Finland: a major disappointment for the repetition factor: they won with Lordi a few years ago but giving us more heavy metal but without novelty costumes: No. Get more daylight and have a long hard look.

Romania: Mismatched voices and wardrobe: he was in jeans and a tux jacket and she was in black leather. Not sure I could make a visit under those conditions.

Russia: The hot pop heartthrob of the nation did them proud when he ripped his perfect white shirt open to reveal his perfect white chest. But I’ve already been there.

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Editor’s note: Good news! The mystery of Stonehenge has been solved. No kidding, apparently it’s a cemetery. Always has been, too. Read more here in the SF Chronicle.

Stonehenge is one of the most famous ancient monuments in the world, but what do we really know about it? Anyone intending to visit Stonehenge will be confronted by a huge amount of literature. How do you know where to begin?

You’re in luck. Thames & Hudson is about to release in May a new account of Stonehenge aimed at a wider audience than just the PhD archaeological community. It’s called Solving Stonehenge, by Anthony Johnson. Now I’m no archaeologist, but I think this book will generate a huge amount of discussion.

The author (a professional archaeological surveyor) spent fives years at his computer analyzing the earthwork and stone circles, sifting through myths, legends and misconceptions about Stonehenge.

Central to the book is a a carefully measured survey by John Wood, the architect of Bath, completed in 1740 before several of the stones fell; although largely overlooked by Stonehenge scholars, this remains the most important plan of Stonehenge ever made.

Stonehenge Spoiler Alert: Everybody dies in the end

Locked within the symmetry of the stones and buried below ground lie the clues to the precise formulae which determined their num