Middle East & Africa

Flying from Cairo to Aswan you get a sense of the size of Egypt, mile after mile of sandy desert interspersed with the odd abandoned building and the occasional siting of the green belt along the Nile River. As far as the eye can see it’s nothing but orange sands and blue sky.

On arrival in Aswan we disembarked the plane for the ludicrously short bus ride to the terminal (seriously its about 100 meters!) which we later realized was a good thing. Why’s that you ask? Heat! Several degrees hotter than Cairo, the dry heat of Upper Egypt is unrelenting, yet bearable due to the absence of humidity. In summer temperatures regularly exceed 50 degrees Celsius, while winter is a more sensible 30 - 35 degrees. For our arrival, Aswan turned on a picture perfect, not a cloud in the sky, 37 degree day. The locals are proud to tell you Aswan only gets about 20 minutes of rain twice a year, sometimes 3 times, and even then it’s only a light shower “like tear drops from the sky”.

With a population of around 800,000, Aswan has a much more relaxed, laid-back attitude to life than other parts of Egypt, most notably Cairo, and is less focused on the tourist dollar due to its healthy income from the High Dam and surrounding quarries. Life in general in Egypt has a slow pace but Aswan manages to take it down a notch again and this is where the charm lies in the city.

Of course there are the main attractions which you go there for in the first place - the High Dam, Unfinished Obelisk and Philae Temple, but there are plenty more charms to this city than these famous sites. The Nile River is at its most spectacular around Aswan with the white sails of feluccas dominating the waterway. The dramatic orange dunes of the West Bank plunge to the palm fringed banks of the deep blue river creating a stunning contrasting landscape.

During our stay in Aswan after our 8 day Nile River Cruise, we took a fantastic trip to Aswan Botanic Gardens on Kitchener Island. Sailing to the island on a felucca, it was so relaxing sitting back watching the beautiful landscape pass by with nothing but the sound of the wooden boat slicing through the water. No whirring engines, no chattering tour groups, just us and the Nile. Again our wonderful guide Samir joined us and told us about the Tombs of the Nobles carved into the steep slopes of the West Bank, and the wonderfully positioned Agha Khan Mausoleum looking down over the river. The water is a deep shade of blue and crystal clear once away from the edges, peering over the side of the boat you can see fish swimming in the reeds below as the sun’s rays penetrate the surface.

After sailing for about 20 minutes we arrived at the island where we visited the small botanic museum before enjoying some time strolling the peaceful gardens. Containing plant species from around the world, the space provides a tranquil escape from the crowds and heat of Egypt. There is a small outdoor cafe at the rear of the gardens where we met up with Samir again and sat for at least an hour just chatting about life. I think we covered everything from Islam and Ramadan to rude cockney slang and how to tell the difference between a Canadian from an American accent!

Sailing back to Aswan we had plenty of time to enjoy the ride as our “captain” played in the wind and currents, showing off his expert felucca sailing skills, and giving us a little heart-starter catching the wind at such an angle to tilt the boat on its side so we thought we would fall into the water. With a cheeky giggle he corrected the angle and we continued on our way, sailing for around half an hour. Our captain was the oldest felucca sailor in Aswan and Samir translated to us when other passing sailors would call out to him in Arabic, teasing him to retire.

We later mentioned to Samir that we wanted to watch an English football match that was being played that afternoon but our hotel did not have the channel. Within a few hours he had arranged for us to visit another hotel nearby who opened their bar and showed the match on the big screen TV just for us! Where in the world do you get service like that? Later that night we went for dinner at a local restaurant Samir recommended to us called Nubian House, which serves Nubian food in a peaceful setting. The restaurant sits high above Aswan with spectacular views over the city and the Nile, and we spent hours enjoying the peaceful surroundings.

The hospitality and kindness shown to us in Aswan will stay in my mind forever and is without a doubt the highlight of my fantastic visit to Egypt. Considering the amazing monuments and fascinating history of the country, this is no mean feat.

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Luxor, Aswan & Upper Egypt, and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

Our trusty taxi!

There are many, many temples to be seen as you travel along the Nile River through Upper Egypt, some well known and often visited, others sitting lonely on the banks with few if any visitors. Obviously you have the biggies like Luxor’s Karnak and Hatchepsut, and Aswan’s famous Philae Temple, but when you get out of the 2 big cities and explore the river by boat, you get to see some of the lesser known ones.

On day 2 of our 8 day Nile River Cruise we found ourselves docked in Edfu for our first shore excursion of the trip. As we disembarked we were happy this had been pre-arranged, eliminating the need to negotiate with the dozen or so locals vying for business with their horse and carriages. This is the primary means of transport in Edfu and it is a pleasant 10 minute ride to the town’s major attraction, Edfu Temple or the Temple of Horus.

Arriving at our destination and running the gauntlet of the tourist bazaar to the main entrance, it was hard not to be in awe of the Temple of Horus. The best preserved and most intact of all Egyptian temples, it towers overhead with giant carved decorations on the facade. Built to celebrate both the marriage of Ptolemy XIII and Hathor, and to honor the falcon god Horus.

Temple of Horus in Edfu

With Grecian influences the Temple of Horus is not a true Egyptian masterpiece, however this makes it none the less impressive. After a thorough introduction to the history of the temple from our fabulous guide Samir, it was time to go inside to see the Great Hypostyle Hall and the Inner Sanctum. In places the hieroglyphics and carvings are still intact, untouched by the Christians who have defaced many of Egypt’s great sites, in particular the walls of the laboratory where perfumes and incense were created. Here you can see the hieroglyphic formulas for such potions, carved intricately on the walls from floor to ceiling.

At the very back of the temple is a roped off area which once contained the golden carving of Horus and a diminutive replica of the wooden solar boat belonging to the god. The originals of both are on display at the Louvre in Paris where they have been since the French used deception to smuggle them from the country - let’s face it, they stole them! This is a common story throughout Egypt with many precious items mercilessly taken from their true home, it’s not just the French either, English, American, German, the list is long.

We were once again thrilled at our decision to travel with a private guide for our tours and day trips, allowing us to learn so much and have his expertise to see the site with little interruption from other visitors. Without the crowds of Cairo and the blatant commercialism of Luxor, the Temple of Horus in Edfu is well worth a visit. It is feasible to visit on a day trip from Aswan, but more commonly it will be part of your Nile River Cruise itinerary.

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Upper Egypt and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

Another day in Egypt and another step back in time to a land centuries ago. Traveling along the Nile on an 8 day cruise, today was all about the West Bank of Luxor, or Thebes as it was called in the time of the Pharaohs, the side of the city dedicated to the dead. While the East Bank is dotted with monuments to life and the living, the West Bank is considered a necropolis where the dead are honored and are left to await the afterlife. This is a belief common throughout the whole of Egypt.

Valley of the Kings, Luxor

The Valley of the Kings is the most famous and most visited site on the West Bank. Deep in the arid sandstone mountains and in the shadow of a pyramid shaped peak, the great Pharaohs of Upper Egypt created their magnificent tombs. Inside there is little left, all but one were robbed centuries ago, however the incredible decoration makes a trip to the valley worth doing. The ceiling and walls are covered with painted hieroglyphic carvings celebrating the life of the tomb owner and its easy to imagine the treasures that once accompanied the king into his afterlife. To ensure the preservation of the artwork, photography is not permitted inside the tombs, so you are going to have to take my word for it…or go see for yourself!

Your ticket for the Valley of the Kings includes entry into 3 of the tombs (except for Tutankhamun’s — I’ll get to that later), and on our visit our wonderful guide Samir pointed us in the direction of 3 of the best. Due to the large number of visitors to the site, guards are not allowed inside with their customers so Samir told us what to look out for and what was unique about each of the tombs we would see. It would have been great to have him come in with us, but at least without a guide the large bus groups that descend en masse tend not to stay inside too long. They just arrive, walk in, walk out and tick it off their list of things to do in Egypt.

Shade - a precious commodity in Egypt

The first tomb we visited belonged to one of the Ramses’ kings but I now can’t remember which number he was. One of the smaller tombs the decoration was stunning and the huge granite sarcophagus still lay where it has for thousands of years now. The second tomb belonged to Ramses IV and was ENORMOUS! Absolutely stunning in size and detail, the walls are covered floor to ceiling with carvings and paintings with not an inch left untouched. This was something that had to be seen to be believed. The third tomb we went into belonged to one of the Seti kings but again I can’t remember which one, I really should right these things down! The tomb was never finished as money ran out before completion, nevertheless it’s clear to see had it been completed, it would have been one of the most magnificent sites in Egypt. On an even larger scale than the 2 previously seen, the tomb just kept going and going, deep into the mountain with rooms off in all directions.

Valley of the Kings

Obviously one of the most popular tombs is that of King Tutankhamun. Discovered by Howard Carter in 1921, this has so far been the only tomb discovered which had not been emptied by robbers over the years. Hidden underneath the tomb of Ramses VI (I remember that one!), the tomb mostly escaped detection for centuries until Carter’s chance discovery. The entrance had been broken but whoever found it neglected to notice the vast quantity of treasure inside. It was discovered with rooms filled to the ceiling by gold statues and furniture, jewelry and priceless artifacts.

The contents have all now been moved to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo or stolen by the discoverers and all that remains is the sarcophagus and the mummy of Tutankhamun, though this is buried deep beyond the eyes of visitors. He was a young king, risiing to the throne at age 8, but he died young so the decoration is not as elaborate as the other tombs and by all account is rather dull, however it still captures the imagination and demand is high. If you do want to go inside for a look, you will have to pay an additional 80 Egyptian pounds (about $12-$15) to do so.

Currently 63 tombs have been discovered with only 15 open to visitors at any one time. The search continues for more tombs and will not stop until all have been unearthed. Egyptologists know there are another 4 or 5 out there, they just don’t know where so the search goes on. A tomb was discovered earlier this year and the country eagerly awaits confirmation that it does in fact belong to a king or possibly queen, however like the others it had been robbed and no treasures remained.

With only a few left to be found let’s all hope another Tutankhamun style discovery is made, and on an even grander scale, to give us a greater insight into the past and further boast Egypt’s vital tourism industry.

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Upper Egypt and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site. If you are in London, get your tickets to the upcoming Tutankhamun and The Golden Age of the Pharaohs Exhibition to see some of the items from the tomb of the boy king, leaving Egypt for the last time.

After a hideous 3:45am wake up call it was time to stroll the 50 meters from our cruise boat to the motorboat which would take us across the Nile River to a waiting minibus. A short (but fast!) 10 minute drive through the darkness of the West Bank before sunrise and a briefing from our pilot, and we were in the basket of the balloon gently taking off. The 50 minute flight took us over crop fields of sugar cane, ocra and corn, with the Nile River and Luxor East Bank on one side and the desert mountains of the West Bank on the other.

It was so quiet and peaceful flying up to 1,800 feet above ground, so silent you could hear dogs barking and donkeys braying below. As the sun rose over the East Bank the colors of the landscape changed and the temples started coming to life. In the distance the mighty Hatchepshut Temple faces the rising sun, and below the full spread of Rasmuseum illuminates in the morning light. The Colossi of Memnon rose majestically overlooking the fields of sugar cane and across the river Karnak Temple baskes in the sun rays, facing back towards the Nile.

While the views were spectacular and the monuments mind blowing, the best part of the morning was the experience itself. Our entertaining pilot continually made the balloon rise and fall in the sky, sometimes coming low enough to touch the top of the crops with an outstretched hand. We were not alone up there either, there were more than a dozen other balloons floating through the air in a graceful aerial ballet. Below us daily life began with farmers waking to attend their crops and children riding donkeys to school.

The landing was alot of fun! As we approached the ground through a narrow clearing in the crops, the basket was literally snatched from the air by a ground crew of at least 10 good looking young men. With the basket safely grounded the real fun began! The ground crew fought galantly with the giant balloon, twisting and pulling it into a long coil for packing. Bodies were thrown through the air as the crew chanted as they combined efforts to tame the beast. With the final gasp of air escaping from the balloon, a cheer was let out and the celebratory dance begins — yes you read that right, it was dancing time at 5am. While one boy drums everyone else chants and sings and dances, but its not just a spectator sport, within minutes we were pulled into the fray. With no idea what was being sung or why we were doing this, we just joined in best we could and had a great laugh.

When it was time to leave there was that moment of concern — who do we tip? The never-ending question in Egypt! With a pilot, driver, guide and an ever increasing number of ground crew, not to mention the local children who had mysteriously arrived on the scene, gazing at us with big, sad brown eyes. Thankfully Egypt is a country that knows the importance of the tourist dollar and how to make everyone comfortable and happy. The drummer turned his drum upside down and an announcement was made to simply put our tip in the drum and all the staff would share it.

Back to the boat and after a little entertaining hassle from a local merchant who spotted the vulnerable American in the group and insisted she needed 5 different colored cotton scarfs, it was back across the Nile for a quick sleep before beginning our day again at a more civilized hour!

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Upper Egypt and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

It’s loud, it’s dirty, it’s chaotic - it’s Cairo and I love it!

What the…?!?

Expecting the worst but hoping for the best, our Cairo experience really began in the departure lounge for Singapore Airlines flight 492 at Changi Airport. As the announcement that boarding was about to commence boomed over the speakers, there was a stampede to the gate, everyone eager to get on the plane NOW! Having already flown 7.5 hours from Sydney, with a 4 hour “transit” in Singapore, My husband Eamonn and I were bemused with our fellow passengers and their eagerness to spend as much time as possible on the plane.

Eventually all were on board and the flight passed uneventfully, touching down in Cairo far too many hours later. As the wheels touched down loud applause echoed through the cabin, shortly followed by the click-click of seatbelts being unbuckled. For the next few minutes as the plane decelerated and taxied to the gate, frantic flight attendants stalked the aisles screaming for everyone to sit down. Calm was momentarily restored until the seatbelt sign turned off with a ding and the desperate grabbing of cabin baggage began again, followed by a mass push towards the door. Never have I been so happy to be in the last row of an aircraft!

With all limbs intact and heads spinning with confusion we were overwhelmed with relief to see our names on a board as we neared the immigration counter. Being big-time pre planners, we had already booked our transfer to the hotel, and our guide, Nour, was there to help us through the debacle that is Cairo Airport. The thing is, it is organized it’s just organized chaos!

How’s your Arabic?

Nour led us through customs allowing us to skip the long lines which basically consisted or hundreds of people pushing toward the 4 immigration booths. Next came baggage claim, where again Nour came in very handy, pushing to the front to reclaim our suitcase while jokingly asking how many guns we had packed (well I think he was joking…) — not the kind of joke that is acceptable in any other airport around the world.

Straight through customs (they really don’t care what you bring into the country) and the scenes in Singapore and on the flight paled in comparison. There were people EVERYWHERE! Walking to the car we were passed by cars, bikes, the population of Canberra and a donkey, all fighting for space. However the relief of getting to the car was short lived as we took to the streets of Cairo.

You need to understand something about road rules in Cairo - they are suggestions only…

There are lines on the road but nobody takes any notice, 4 lanes becomes 6, turn right becomes turn left, traffic lights are there purely for decoration and the official speed limit is “as fast as you can go without hitting anything”. If you think I’m joking or exaggerating you need to go see for yourself. The white knuckled ride to our hotel was only slowed due to the larger than usual number of vehicles (I use the term loosely - we passed more than one donkey cart!) on the roads, the date being the eve of Ramadan.

Finally at the hotel after nearly 24 hours of travel from our home in Sydney and it was clear we were in over our heads already. ‘Ma’a salāma’ - ‘go without fear’, hmmm, easier said than done!

-Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Cairo and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

As long as I can remember I have wanted to see the Pyramids and Egypt in general has always been on my top 3 wishlist. After months of anticipation I finally got to cross it off my list on the Private Tour: Giza Pyramids, Sphinx, Memphis, Sakkara.

Our guide for the day, Akhmet (though he prefers to go by the name David Beckham…) is an Egyptologist and Archaeologist, spending his days showing tourists the sites of Cairo or on his knees sweeping vast quantities of sand from ancient sites with a tiny little brush. Working for the Egyptian Government 10 days a month, he searches for lost treasures and was a man who clearly loves his job.

The Sphinx and Pyramid of Khafre

Leaving our hotel behind the 30 minute drive to Giza was predictably terrifying as every experience on Cairo roads tends to be. Along the way Becks as he will be forever known, told us a little about Cairo, a brief of the history of the city and casually pointed out a few of the famous landmarks. Chatting away oblivious to our surroundings, we crossed over the river and Becks nonchalantly mentioned “Oh, there’s the Pyramids…”

Just like that, there they were. Only a few kilometers away and literally a few meters from the edge of Cairo city limits, the Pyramids loom on the horizon for all to see.

When you see photos of them they always seem to be in the middle of the desert with no sign of civilisation around. Surely they are miles and miles from the city on some lonely plateau in the middle of the desert, only accessible after days of traveling on the back of a camel through harsh terrain. Ok so that’s a slightly exaggerated impression but you get my point. The only remaining member of the original Seven Wonders of the World seems slightly out of place sitting next door to the joint KFC/Pizza Hut franchise! Where exactly do those romantic desert photographs come from?

The answer became apparent as we arrived at the edge of the city. Just as abruptly as the sides of the pyramids rise from the sand, the city stops and there’s nothing but desert. Its like there is an invisible wall holding back the city, you can physically turn your back on modern civilisation and step into ancient Egypt.

Hubby with the famous David Beckham!

Arriving on the plateau and standing between the 2 largest pyramids (Cheops and Khafre), Becks told us just a small bit of the vast amount there is to know about the magnificent structures that are even more impressive up close than I ever imagined. Guides are not allowed to go inside the pyramids (there is always at least 1 open to visitors) however Becks encouraged to g inside for a bit of fun. It only cost us the equivalent of about $5 so why not, when do you ever get to stand inside a building that is 4,000 years old?

There was not much to see inside, first you walk down a steep ramp which consists of pieces of wood nailed to the slippery granite floor, then up the other side to arrive in the burial chamber, The sarcophagus is still there but nothing else, however it is kind of cool to stand there knowing it was once full of treasures and a mummy! It’s pretty mind-blowing. It’s also pretty hot, so we did not linger too long. If you decide to do this be warned the passage way is low and narrow, not good if you are claustrophobic or have bad knees. I am not a tall person but I had a headache by the time I came out from hitting my head on the roof at least a dozen times…

Coming back outside and you are faced with the only negative part of the pyramids — touts. I was surprised that they were less aggressive than expected (Thailand is 10 times worse) and generally took “la shu-kran” — no thank you, for an answer and moved on. Having run the gauntlet on camel owners, postcard sellers and “have your picture taken with a silly Pharoah’s headress” guys, it was back to the lovely air-conditioning of the minibus for a short trip to the other side of the Pyramids for that “classic” shot of the 3 of them lined up together.

Driving back to the city side of the plateau it was time to meet the Sphinx. I was wondering where it was?!

Tourist not traveler…

After years of hearing “its much smaller than it looks in pictures” and “its falling to pieces”, I was surprised to see how big and well preserved it is. Sure, in comparison to the pyramids looming in the background its not massive, but it ain’t small! Becks again did a great job of giving us the most interesting parts of its history (like that Napoleon blew off its nose and the British stole it!), took photos for us and then let us wander around for a while on our own. I am happy to say that not only the Pyramids, not the Sphinx also, wildly exceeded my expectations. Something everyone should see.

Before heading off we had to tick another “must-do” off the list — camel ride! Becks was kind enough to organise it for us and one quick phone call later we were sitting on the humps of a pair of ill-mannered, and quite frankly a little smelly, Arabian camels. They make possibly the most uncomfortable seats in the world, but hey, the photos look great!

–Kerrie O’Mahony

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Cairo and throughout Egypt. Also have a look at traveler photos of Egypt over on the Viator Flickr site.

Egypt in August was, in hindsight, an odd time to have chosen. But it fitted in with a whole lot of other plans so, “what they hey?” we thought.

“What the temperature?”, would have been more apt.

At an average daily temperature of 42C (107F) we didn’t understand what we were in for. But here are our sweaty, exhausted, elated and totally satisfied suggestions:

The Good of the Many vs. the Good of the Few

Luke, thinking “what the temperature?!?!?”

One of the truly great advantages of traveling in low season to a highly touristed destination is the lack of crowds. Instead of visiting sites that look like they’re shooting a remake of Lawrence of Arabia with Voyage of the Damned and Chevy Chase in Vacation, you’ll have the luxury of sitting back imagining that YOU are that Boy King in that wall frieze, being hand-fed grapes, watching hippos being speared while Ibis nibble at your toes and the 20th century slips away.

There’s no one in sight! It will make the hairs go up on the back of your neck!

Time Out

It’s a dry heat in Egypt, so while not as oppressive as an Asian monsoon, you will still tire quickly. That means it’s a fine line between “A masterpiece from 3000 BC” and “Another heap of stones”. Don’t be afraid to say you’re all templed out and opt for a dip in the pool and a cold beer — instead of looking like a ‘before’ shot for a Gatorade ad. Enjoy everything you see instead of resenting an entire Dynasty for building something so bloody HUGE. It’s all been there for thousands of years - so see it (and enjoy it) next time. (We did a pyramid and bazaar tour and can definitely recommend that, but go slow in the heat.)

Distilled Essence of Pester

The lack of other tourists does mean there’s less meat for the kill — in the bazaars, for the stall holders and for the sellers of well, everything. Chances are you weren’t in the market for clothes pegs or a bushel of cloves in the first place, but you can’t hide behind someone who looks even more vulnerable (because they’re still at home planning their visit for a cooler month). I hate bargaining. Truly. But there were things I had to have. The plastic ruler with the phonetic hieroglyphic stencils so you could write your name as “bread, falcon, lotus flower, boot,” for example. That, and a Fez. A red one.

Luke’s Rules for Lame Non-Hagglers

That is, for lame non-hagglers who would prefer to put something on AmEx and be done with it!

Rule #1? KNOW what you WANT and once you dive in, be focused on it with a laser-like intensity but don’t be seen to be focusing - after all, you’re “only browsing” right?.

Glance at “IT” almost in passing, pick it up, then put it down slowly, then watch your friendly merchant set the pace. Offer one-third, wait for the gnashing of teeth and wailing, but don’t be moved. Feel OK to move on - but in a smiling, nice way. This will not be the only store in the whole Nile Delta with plastic hieroglyphic rulers.

Prices for bulk - as in, “How much for two?” - will work out cheaper than the unit price you’ve just been told won’t even feed his poor donkey, let alone a family of 11.

Slow, smiling, friendly persistence will pay off.

I have 4 rulers now.

Cruisin’

At temperatures like this, a Nile cruise is a magical way to see things without losing your cool. And we loved our Mirage Nile Cruise. In much the same way as the cartoon backgrounds go past in Fred Flintstone episodes, the unbelievably beautiful too-stereotypical-to-be-true backgrounds come and go as you float by. Palm trees, minarets, little boys on donkeys, little boats cutting reeds, water buffalo - all from your sun deck.

Luke enjoys his relaxing Nile Cruise

You can really lose yourself in it. But remember there are about 300 of these boats chugging up and down the stretch of water between Luxor and Aswan, so it’s a little like a 6 lane aqua highway at times. Just don’t let that detract from the magic of a desert sunset.

And know that four nights is enough on board.

Oh, and beware the audience-participation entertainment unless you’re TRULY a sado-masochist. The Finnish woman next to me almost cried from embarrassment when she had to kiss the 2-man Nubian horse on stage.

Something Special

You should definitely take the day tour by air to Abu Simbel. Moving this temple to higher ground to prevent flooding by the High Dam is good enough reason to marvel, but the beauty of the temple makes it a particularly spectacular day out, too.

Traveling by air gives you at least some sense of the immensity of desert out there too. (Boarding cards for the 30-minute flight are distributed freely, so I traveled as Mrs. Javier while My partner was Mr. Jesus. Those boarding passes are now on the fridge.)

Oh, and the trip highlight? The sound and light show at Aswan was beautiful since it was set on a little island that you have to take a boat to. The cool of night gives this experience a whole new perspective. It starts with the ubiquitous “Since the dawn of time…” but hey, it’s a sound and light show! And a very well done one, too.

You’ll love this country. But decide which is your incentive, i.e. less heat or less crowds, and as long as you don’t feel you have to do everything you’ll feel like that Boy King, I promise.

–Luke Crosthwaite

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Egypt, things to see and do in Cairo, and sightseeing in Hurghada & Sharm el Sheikh. You can also browse more of Luke’s Egypt photos over on the Viator Flickr site.

Editor’s Note: The following blog post is by Don George from his recent trip to Kenya & Tanzania. Don, a pioneering travel writer and editor for 25 years, is the host and creator of the adventure travel web site Don’s Place and the editor of the literary travel magazine RECCE. His seven books include “Travel Writing”, “The Kindness of Strangers,” and “Tales from Nowhere.” You can read Don’s original post here.

We’ve just stepped off an 18-seat Air Kenya propeller plane onto the airstrip at Amboseli National Reserve. Vast brown savannah surrounds us. A nearby herd of ungainly, big-horned wildebeest stares at the noisy, propeller-beaked bird that just disrupted their grazing. Beyond them sleek-striped zebra munch, flanks twitching, on the grass. To their distant left a trio of Thompsen’s gazelles leap toward the green foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, whose flanks disappear into masses of gray clouds.

I look at the three others on my safari and blurt out the only words that come to mind: “This is so – Africa!”

We climb into our minivan and set off for the tented camp where we will spend the next two nights. We’ve been driving for about 15 minutes when we come upon a swamp. Lewela, our safari director, suddenly points to the far shore, “Look! Over there!”

Four heads swivel. And there it is: Three feet from the water’s edge, a lioness is lying next to the bloody half-carcass of a zebra, the remains of the pride’s dinner. “They had a big party last night!” Lewela laughs as we stop to absorb the scene.

Another lioness is lying down about 20 feet away, sated, so exhausted from the effort of eating and digesting that we can hear her labored panting and see the bellows of her tawny body moving in and out. Soon a great African drama begins to unfold. First wiry jackals come on the scene, cautiously approaching the carcass, smelling the air, anxious in their hunger, waiting for an opening when they can dash in and make off with some lunch. Then two hyena come loping across the savannah, eyeing the lions, warily working their roundabout way toward the glistening kill.

For a long time the lioness lets them approach, head on paws, eyes closed, seemingly oblivious. Then she slowly raises herself, turns, and begins a purposeful stride in the direction of the jackals and hyenas. After a few taut seconds they scoot away, followed closely by the lioness’s eye. Then she returns to her resting place and curls up again next to the carcass. One of the jackals gives a disappointed yelp. Lunch will have to wait.

Another drama begins to play out in the swamp as the wildebeest and zebras start to cross. They enter the water in a line, following the leader across the depths and out to the opposite shore. But suddenly, about a third of the way into the swamp, one of the wildebeests begins to flail wildly. It has strayed off the path into deeper waters and bucks in terror for a few seconds before it finds its footing and splash-charges into shallower waters and onto the land. “During the Great Migration a lot of wildebeest die this way,” Lewela says. “Either they drown or they get separated from the herd and become easy prey. The lions wait by the rivers like they’re at a buffet.”

As he speaks, the next wildebeest in line hesitates, confused, then looks around, snorts and gallops back onto the land he’d just left. The one behind him stands still for a second, then belligerently wheels around and follows him back. Soon the entire line of wildebeest and zebra has beaten a retreat onto land, and the animals graze and gaze placidly, now on both sides of the water, as if nothing has happened.

In the foreground a flock of long-beaked, white-winged great white pelicans erupts as one into the sky, swerving over the sweeping brown-golden grass-plains and toward the line of hazy green-purple hills beyond. Acacia trees thrust their thorny branches into the sky, and giraffe, elephant and Cape buffalo materialize in the distance. The smell of fresh dung carries on the breeze, mixing with the dry dusty earthy smell of the land. And Kilimanjaro broods over it all, massing in the clouds.

Africa!

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Now it’s 3:15 and I’m sitting on my verandah, looking out on the snow-topped crown of Kilimanjaro – well, I would be, if the mountain would deign to appear – and the dry swaying grass of the savannah. A mid-afternoon torpor has settled over the scene. A slight breeze barely stirs the branches of the tortillis acacia trees that tower around my tent, casting long shadows over a dense tangle of green, insect-loud vegetation. The most energetic beings are the buzzing flies and the calling birds. There’s an amazing, sweet cacophony of bird calls – one that has a sandpapery grate to it, others high branch-strung tweets, others that woo-woo-woo… To the east of cloud-massed Kilimanjaro rain sheets down in the distance.

A whiff of wetness is borne on the breeze, and the insects shrill with even greater intensity.

I look around and shake my head: It’s almost impossible to believe that this is just our first day in the bush. Who knows what wonders await?

–Don George, guest blogger

Planning a trip? Head over to Don’s Place to browse his recommendations, or browse Viator’s own tours and safaris in Kenya.

Honestly, the things we do to travel sometimes! My husband and I spent an hour of our Saturday morning sitting on a plastic chair surrounded by snotty nosed kids and coughing seniors. Ahh, the glamour of international travel! Why were we here? Egypt in 5 weeks, that’s why.

On the edge of sanity after listening to a one sided conversation from a teacher with a broken toe aimed in the direction of an overworked receptionist about the trials and tribulations of having a child, and god forbid going back to work after 2 years off, it was finally our turn. Going into the doctor’s office I was thinking 2, maybe 3 injections, after all I have been traveling since I was 19 and had several vaccinations along the way. My husband has never had a vaccination in his life (gotta love the Irish health care system?!), so with some smugness I had been teasing him all week that he would be getting MANY injections.

Checking my medical records, the doctor informed me that yes, I had previouly had a couple of the vaccinations I would need for Egypt, so I began to relax. Hmm, it might just 2 shots after all. That is until he finished the sentence “…but they have expired and you will need a few boosters.” Dammit!

In the end I needed 5 shots, and he needed 4! Yes that’s right, he who has never been immunised needed less than me. How does that work I hear you ask? Well apparently these days Hepatitis A and Hepatitis B vaccinations are combined into one, whereas when I originally got mine, they were still separate and the boosters still need to be separate.

Getting over the shock of this news, I resigned myself to a second visit next weekend - surely you don’t get 5 vaccinations in one day? For the second time in a day I was horribly wrong. How silly of me, I have 2 arms right, so let’s just get 3 in one arm, 2 in the other, oh it just kept getting better and better! I now have a new resolve to visit all the exotic destinations on my wishlist covered with this set of immunisations in the next 10 years before these ones expire.

By lunch time our bodies were swarming with microscopic quantities of 5 nasty diseases, our arms hurt like hell and we were $430 poorer. Egypt - you better be worth it!

-Kerrie O’Mahony

If you are traveling overseas, don’t forget to check for health advise and recommended travel vaccinations before you go - a preventable disease is not the kind of souvenir you want to bring home from your trip!

Editor’s Note: The following blog post is by Don George from his recent trip to Kenya & Tanzania. Don, a pioneering travel writer and editor for 25 years, is the host and creator of the adventure travel web site Don’s Place and the editor of the literary travel magazine RECCE. His seven books include “Travel Writing”, “The Kindness of Strangers,” and “Tales from Nowhere.” You can read Don’s original post here.

A kiss is just a kiss…

My introduction to the wildlife of East Africa was a kiss from a giraffe. No, this isn’t a metaphor. We’re talking about a real wet lip-smacker here, a “come here big boy and let me give you a taste of my long black tongue” kiss.

But let’s back up a bit.

I arrived in Africa from London at about 8:45 on a humid Nairobi night. Almost immediately on exiting the plane, I was greeted by a smiling woman from the safari company that had organized my tour, and whisked through Immigration to the baggage claim area, where she introduced me to two fellow safari-mates who just happened to be on the same flight: Jennifer and Benjie, exuberant 30-somethings who, she explained, were celebrating their new marriage with a safari honeymoon. Ah, romance! We gathered up our green duffle bags and before long were rolling through the night toward the Norfolk Hotel, a grand colonial-era establishment on the outskirts of the city, where I tumbled into a deep sleep.

Early the next morning we met the fourth and final member of our party – Jill, a lively Southern Californian – and then gathered with Mrs. Pinto, who with her husband started and still manages the safari company; Duncan, the director of their safari programs; and our safari leader, Lewela. Pointing to a large map, Lewela presented an overview of our itinerary: We would spend the first day touring Nairobi and the surrounding area, then fly south the following day to Amboseli, where we would spend two days; in successive two-day stays, we would visit the Mt. Kenya Safari Club; Maasai Mara National Reserve; Serengeti National Park in Tanzania; and finally Ngorongoro Crater before returning to Nairobi.

Duncan then introduced a tall, thin man splendidly attired in bright red traditional Maasai garb, who told us in a soft voice about the history and culture of his people, and said that as part of our stay in Maasai Mara, we would be able to visit a Maasai village; he said the villagers welcomed this opportunity to teach us about their traditional ways of life.

Lion cubs having a nap… cute but where’s momma?

After that we scrambled into a minivan for a day-tour of Nairobi and surrounding towns. On first impression, Nairobi is a daunting city, a big, bustling, car-crammed and pedestrian-crammed, choking-air capital that seems to uncomfortably combine elements of the first and third worlds. On the one hand, there are shining skyscrapers, headquarters of international corporations and organizations, and businesspeople striding in sleek suits as they talk urgently on cell phones; on the other hand, there are potholed streets, broken-up sidewalks, and endless strings of people walking, walking, walking along the roadways, crossing haphazardly in the midst of perpetual-rush-hour traffic or threading a ragtag path between cars. In some places we passed small plots of lovingly tended community gardens and bright brand-name boutiques; in others, trash fires burned where sidewalks should have been, and muddy, tin-roof shanty towns sprawled and spread. While experience tells me that a sustained stay would open up the idiosyncratic wonders of the city, on first glance Nairobi seemed an intimidating, impenetrable place.

Soon a very different Kenya revealed itself as we drove into the suburbs of Karen, past posh mansions and rambling walled estates to the gracious former farmhouse of Karen Blixen. A Danish aristocrat and coffee planter who settled here from 1914-1931, Blixen wrote the passionate memoir Out of Africa, which has probably introduced more Westerners to the country than any other single tome. On her expansive estate Blixen lived what was considered a life of luxury, but it’s illuminating to tour the farmhouse, now a museum, and see what kinds of cooking and cleaning contraptions constituted luxury in those days. (more…)