 |
| The Blancaneaux Lodge, Belize |
It’s Better in Belize. You Better Belize It. It’s Unbelizeable.
If I had a nickel for each time I saw a Belize-inspired T-shirt, I’d have at least 60 cents by now. Maybe a buck.
The problem is not a lack of T-shirts. Trust me, there are heaps on sale in Belize. The problem is that Belize is one of those places that refuses to become mainstream. Every few years something thrusts Belize into the global spotlight. In 2001 it was Hurricane Iris that garnered headlines. In 2000 it was the reality television show Temptation Island (filmed on Ambergris Caye) that caused a brief surge of interest.
Yet beyond the occasional news item, most travelers know little if anything about Belize. Don’t belize me? OK smarty pants, let’s test your knowledge with my patented Belize Pop Quiz.
- True or false, there is a Guinness brewery in Belize.
- True or false, there are British army troops stationed in Belize.
- True or false, filmmaker George Lucas has a posh jungle lodge in Belize.
- True or false, the following countries all border Belize: Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras.
- True or false, the most popular radio station in Belize is called Love FM.
OK, let’s see how you scored. The answer to question #1 is true. Belize has its very own Guinness brewery, under license from the mothership back at St James’s Gate, Dublin. This is also where Belize’s homegrown beer, Belikin, is bottled.
Question 2? True. The British Army maintains troops in Belize, a remnant of the days when Belize was a UK possession known as “British Honduras” (Belize gained full independence in 1981).
Question 3? You can be forgiven for missing this, it was a trick question. The answer is false because it’s not George Lucas but Francis Ford Coppola who stumbled across a dilapidated jungle retreat in 1981 and, 12 years later, opened the utterly lovely Blancaneaux resort (more on that below).
Question 4? False. Only Mexico and Guatemala share a border with Belize, not Honduras.
And question 5? True. ‘Thank you for choosing love’ is the unofficial motto of Love FM. My favorite DJ used to sign off with “…here are super-fantastic kisses to you and you and you” (it sounds best in a Belizean accent).
If you scored 5/5 on the quiz, give yourself a gold star and go read a different blog post because there’s little I can teach you about Belize. If you scored 2 or more out of 5 then keep on reading, you may need a Belize refresher course. If you scored less than that, ohhhhh how I envy you. It means you don’t know much about Belize. More to the point, it means you can have the distinct pleasure of discovering Belize for the first time. Whenever I meet somebody who has not heard of Belize I feel like giving them an award: first place in the ‘about to have the experience of a lifetime’ category.
Without further ado, my suggested itineraries for making the most of your time in Belize.
Belize: Before You Go
 |
| Lighthouse Lager, Belize’s ‘other’ beer |
The first decision you need to make is this: ocean first, ruins and mountains second; or ruins and mountains first, ocean second. I typically opt for the latter course. I like to have my adventures up front, then relax and unwind after. While you can’t make a bad choice, you do need to make a choice because it will define the shape of your entire trip. I’m going to assume you prefer adventure up front, as well, and offer my suggestions accordingly.
The second decision you need to make is this: to Belize City or not to Belize City? I will not lie to you. Belize City is not the most beautiful city in Central America (though if you’re coming from Tegucigalpa, well, it feels like paradise here). Belize City is a fine transport hub. It even has a few decent restaurants. But if you’re short on time it is OK to skip Belize City. The reality is, you’ll pass through here at least twice on your way to/from the reef and the airport.
The last decision you need to make is this: to drive or not to drive? Belize is a small easy-to-navigate country. There are only 4 main roads and buses are decent (I didn’t say comfortable, I merely said decent). So there is no reason that you must have a 4×4. That said, Belize is a very easy place to drive (on the right, despite the British influences). It’s also REALLY REALLY FUN to take a 4×4 into the jungle. I can’t imagine visiting Belize without having a 4×4 (and yes, you do need a 4×4) at my beck and call. I usually rent through a company called Crystal Auto because they have an office at the airport and in Belize City, and will shuttle you for free between the two locations. All you need is a driver’s license from your home country plus the basic insurance that comes with the vehicle.
Belize Itineraries: Jungles, Mountains, Maya Ruins
Assuming you take my advice and start with mountains and jungles and decide to rent a 4×4, here’s what you do. Fly into Belize City, grab your bags, walk across the parking lot to the car-rental offices, get your 4×4, and head out on the Western Highway to San Ignacio.
Hands down, the best inland base for travelers is the town of San Ignacio. There’s something incredibly charming about the place; it feels like a mix between a forgotten colonial outpost and a modern backpacker’s paradise. There is a good range of hotels, lodges and restaurants here. And San Ignacio is an excellent hub for day trips.
 |
| Cave Tubing in Belize |
Things to Do: Even if you’re not staying at Blancaneaux (see below), make the journey up into the Mountain Pine Ridge to the Rio Frio Cave. This is a stunningly massive cave with a river running through it. I don’t know if it’s “safe” to swim here, but I have done it many times, always with bats dive-bombing my head. I also think the Rio On pools, just past Blancaneaux, are worth a swim (despite the leech-like animals that stuck to my skin). And it goes without saying, it’s worth the $10 for a drink and snack at the bar at Blancaneaux, since you’re in the neighborhood.
Another popular thing to do is cave tubing. It’s a blast, I highly recommend it. Also on my “recommended” list are the ruins at Xuanantunich, which is a smallish but beautiful temple complex overlooking the Mopan River; and the ruins at Cahal Pech plus the nearby Panti Medicinal Trails.
On the way to or from Belize City, the Belize Zoo is worth a visit. I don’t remember which animal it was (the tapir, maybe), but when you see a sign that says ‘warning, this animal may pee on you’, they are not kidding, trust me on this.
Places to Stay: I’ll just get it out of the way, since it’s obvious how much I really enjoy staying at Francis Ford Coppola’s Blancaneaux lodge. It is simply stunning. Be sure to ask for one of the three-walled bungalows facing the river. The fourth wall is actually just a screen, which lets in the melodious gurgle of the nearby river and a cool breeze. Heaven.
I can also recommend a few of the more traditional lodges in Belize. Most of these are fairly expensive, but the service, location and overall experience are wonderful. Try the Chaa Creek Lodge, duPlooy’s Jungle Lodge, or the Windy Hill Resort. Less expensive (but good all the same) is the Parrot Nest Lodge.
Day Trip to Guatemala: Before you head back to Belize City for a week on the reef, consider taking a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala. Tikal is one of the best-preserved Mayan ruins in Central America. I’ve done this trip a few times, by bus, by 4×4 and by plane. If you’re short on time, the plane is a great option.
Belize Itineraries: The Reef
 |
| Sunset on Caye Caulker |
If you’re following my trip plan, head back to Belize City and drop off your 4×4 at the rental office. Politely ask for a lift to the Belize City ferry port and catch the first ferry out of town. Your destination? The reef.
Belize’s reef is one of the finest in Central America, despite recent hurricane damage. Unless you’re planning a live-aboard diving trip, you’ll probably end up in one of two places: Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye (caye is pronounced like ‘key’). Choosing between them is easy. If you prefer a backpacker vibe and a mellow pace, Caye Caulker is for you. If you want more restaurant, hotel, shopping and nightlife options, Ambergris Caye (and its main town of San Pedro) is for you.
The main thing to do on either island is relax. Beach, beer, swimming, napping, the island life is blissful in Belize. After a few days you may be itching for an adventure. In which case there’s snorkeling, world-class diving, sailing, fishing and (if you’re on one of those mega-fancy resorts) golfing.
Belize: The other bits
The mainland town of Placencia in southern Belize is a coastal gem, with easy access to southern diving sites and plenty of things to do in the surrounding jungle. If you look at a map you’ll wonder what else is near Placencia, and if it’s worth the trek in its own right. That’s a tough call, since Placencia is so pleasant. I guess if push comes to shove, skip it if you only have a week or two in Belize, and save it for the next visit. If you do make it to Placencia, check out Coppola’s Turtle Cove Inn.
Another part of Belize that falls into this category is Orange Walk, way up in the north, and the nearby ruins of Lamanai, one of the finest in all Belize. This is a real trek from Belize City, and you’ll need to dedicate a few days (at least) if you’re heading out this way. If you can afford it, I highly recommend the Lamanai Outpost Lodge.
–Scott McNeely
Planning a trip to Belize? Check out all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Belize or browse more of Scott’s photos of Belize.