Vietnamese coffee

Editor’s Note: I originally posted these Vietnam itineraries in 2007, to answer the many questions I was fielding from friends about the best places to go in Vietnam. Over the past two years dozens of travelers have asked some great questions about what to see and do in Vietnam, which I wanted to share. If you have a question, just leave a comment and I’ll do my best to reply.

Let’s start with the coffee. Because in Vietnam coffee is more than just a drink. It doesn’t come venti or frappuccinoed or with whipped cream. And it definitely does not cost $3.75 a shot. No, coffee in Vietnam is thick, cheap and super-sweet. And it is beautiful.

Good coffee is just one of the many happy discoveries I had in Vietnam. It was my first trip, and as an American I had some baggage about visiting. You know, the war and all. The Vietnam War (or as it’s called locally, the American War). Telling friends that I was planning a trip to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) generated a shock-surprise-fear response that I was not prepared for, at least from people old enough to remember the nightly news reports from the battlefront.

So I was half-expecting a chilly response when I arrived. After all more than 400,000 Vietnamese civilians were killed in the war, not to mention the impact on the land itself (ever heard of Agent Orange?). There were plenty of reasons for the Vietnamese not to like Americans.

Crazy crowded streets of Hanoi. BYO motorbike.

Yet the reality could not have been more different. No matter where I went, no matter who I met, the people of Vietnam were unfailingly polite, friendly, approachable. I am not just saying that, either. I’ve been to dozens of countries, and there is no contest here: by a mile the Vietnamese win the awards for “most friendly” and “most gracious.”

The other great surprise for me in Vietnam was the food. Fresh, simple and full of flavor. Since my trip I’ve become addicted to pho (rice noodle soup), which is delicious for breakfast or dinner; gao nep (sticky rice), which is suitable for the vegetarians among us; and nem (spring rolls), made with rice paper, minced pork, crab, mushrooms and extra-fine noodles called vermicelli.

Scott learns to cook in Hoi An

I spent almost 3 weeks in Vietnam, traveling south to north from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. My Vietnam itinerary is below, focusing on the best places to see in Vietnam in case you’re planning a trip of your own. If you have questions about Vietnam, leave a reply and I’ll do my best to field an answer for you. You can also see some of my photos from Vietnam over on the Viator flickr site.

• Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City (direct flight)
• 2 days in Ho Chi Minh City. On this last trip I didn’t get a chance to visit the Mekong Delta, but wish I had. It’s a beautiful spot and I always love exploring it. The city itself is worth exploring. The American War museum is first-rate. Plenty of restaurants, bars and clubs have opened in the past few years. I’ve heard some people say that Ho Chi Minh City has the best nightlife in Southeast Asia.
• 3 days in Mui Ne, a postcard-perfect beach village, very quiet and laid-back. Definitely not as busy as Na Trang. I prefer the calm of Mui Ne to the bustle of Na Trang.
• The it was off to Hoi An (via an overnight train from Na Trang to Danang). Hoi An was my second-favorite spot in Vietnam. The center of Hoi An is a well-preserved French Colonial relic, with limited access to cars. For me the place was heaven. Hoi An has cafes, street markets, riverside restaurants, and the best hand-tailored clothes in Vietnam. I took a cooking class (you can book Vietnam cooking classes over on Viator) and learned how to make fish wrapped in banana leaves, squid salad and homemade dumplings. For less than US$100 I also had 7 shirts, 3 pants, 1 jacket and 1 suit made to order. The quality is not perfect. But who cares at these prices. One tip: If you own a shirt that you like or that fits you especially well, bring it! The local tailors can make copies in a dozen different fabrics.


Sightseeing boats on Halong Bay, Vietnam

• We took a short flight from Danang to Hanoi, my favorite place in all of Vietnam. I don’t know what it is about Hanoi that I clicked with. Maybe the jam-packed streets, packed sardine-style with bicycles and mopeds, which you cross at your own risk. Or maybe the tree-lined streets bursting with all manner of stores, shops, workshops, alleyways, impromptu temples, sidewalk restaurants.
• We also did a trip to Halong Bay, which is definitely worth doing. If the weather is hot, consider doing an overnight or two-night trip so you can swim and relax and take in the scenery. The setting is absolutely unique, with rounded rock formations as far as the eye can see, often shrouded in mist that gives Halong Bay an otherworldly feel.
• Last but not least, it was a flight back to Bangkok. While you’re there, get a message at the Wat Po Traditional Thai Massage School (on the grounds of Wat Po itself, in the heart of Bangkok). It costs something like $5 for 30 minutes. Was it the best massage I’ve ever had? Yup. And it’s enough to make me plan another trip to Vietnam. Via Thailand, of course.

-Scott McNeely

Planning a trip? Browse Viators tours and things to do in Vietnam, things to do in Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh City and Mekong Delta tours. Also check out Vietnam reviews and tour reviews over on the Viator website.

In that spirit Viator is pleased to announce the launch of a new country on our website: the Republic of Bakpakhistan. Our team of travel experts has tried for three years to crack open the Bakpakhi tours and activities market. It’s not been easy. The Republic of Bakpakhistan has had a rough go of it; first there was the collapse of its patron, the Soviet Union. Then after a brief flurry of activity in 2001, the country literally - quite literally - disappeared from the map.

Haggling over US$0.0001 at the rug market © Lonely Planet

Now, after eight years of isolation and closed borders, the country is re-opening to tourism. The capital, Hikinboot, has started the slow process of rebuilding and repopulating.

“Dubbed by detractors and admirers alike as the ‘Paris of the Central Urgs’, Hikinboot is an oasis of unbreathable air and inedible food. Bakpakhistan may be the ‘forgotten Stan’, but Hikinboot is a vital stopping-off point on any journey around the country - in fact it’s the only stopping-off point, as the sprinkling of land mines, ageing nuclear reactors, viciously hungry guerrillas, and marauding groups of gun-wielding Soviet soldiers who’ve refused to come in from the cold conspire to make travel outside the capital an impossibility. Travel to and from Hikinboot’s airport will be the sum total of road travel you’re likely to undertake.

-Lonely Planet World Guide: Destination Bakpakhistan

Bakpakhistan: Planning Your Trip

So exactly where is Bakpakhistan? What can you expect from a visit there? When to go? What to see & do? These are all great questions. And we have answers.

“Bakpakhistan is bordered by Tajikistan to the north, Uzbekistan to the northwest, Turkmenistan to the west, Afghanistan to the south, Pakistan to the southeast and India to the east. Bakpakhistan is ringed by mountains, creating a mostly dry, arid, windswept microclimate. There is little fresh water, as most major streams from the mountains flow down the other side into neighbouring countries. The one exception, the Guz River, kept the cooling towers cool back in Soviet times. Now, it’s best not spoken about.”

“Bakpakhistan’s only real event is the annual grain festival, the Bakbakbakstöp Harvest Festival. The event, celebrating the nation’s only successful harvest (1867), takes place in the first three weeks of June. A country already pretty much stationary grinds to a total stop, as every town hosts a parade featuring residents wearing traditional three-cornered hats.

It’s also the only time of the year when children are allowed to play the traditional game of stïc bol, played with a stïc (a type of stick) and a bol (a round ball).”

-Lonely Planet World Guide: Destination Bakpakhistan

Viator.com is a proud sponsor of the 2008 Bakbakbakstöp Harvest Festival. As part of the festivities, we’ve partnered with Education Minister Snagult Ufqunt to create a crash-course of local tours to help visitors make the most of a holiday in Bakpakhistan.

Semi-traditional non-nomadic Bakpakhistani dwelling © Lonely Planet

Bakpakhistan: Full Day Foraging Tour

From BK3.7 million / US$1.50 per person
Spend a full day discovering Bakpakhistan’s hottest forgaging spots. You’ll learn about the secret spot near the abandoned overpass, the one by the smelly part of the river and more of Bakpakhistan’s best kept foraging secrets form locals who know. Also, you’ll stop off at the market of Gagin Mawnkoont for shopping and gawking at its famous mutations. You’re probably going to need to forage for food, or makeshift transport to leave the country at some point anyway, so this tour is a MUST.

Hikinboot Day Tour*

From BK2.1 million / US$0.99 per person
Visit the ‘Paris of the Central Urgs’! Dodge land mines, guerrillas, nuclear meltdowns and more as you spend a day getting to know this exciting city. This exclusive Viator tour includes:

• Statue of Stalin
• The remains of Proletariat House
• Admission to the carpet museum
• Lunch at Crazy Abdull’s (no vegetarian option)
• A souvenir land mine

Bakpakhi Cultural Half Day Tour, with Clicking Fingers Demonstration

From BK123 million / US$5 per person
Bakpakhistan is renowned for its crafts and carpets, not to mention its folk music. And the rumors are true: Paul Simon has agreed to make a album (produced by Peter Gabriel, featuring Sting and Bono) based on the Bakpakhici art of clicking fingers and tongues while simultaneously slapping a raw cod on the side of a leather boot. This exclusive tour includes a walk through the Hikinboot carpet museum and concludes with a live performance by the Bakpakhi Five Mega-Minstrels at the Bollixinski soccer stadium. Prime Minister Slotcar Nascar will perform a stïc bol demonstration between cod slaps.

Guz River Experience

From BK99 / US$0.00000002 per person
Spend a few hours on what used to be the Guz River. The river was actually concreted over in 1992 and is now the Hivk Highway. Your guide will take you along the highway in a boat converted into a landmobile. You will have the opportunity to view all the sites that were enjoyed from the river before 1992. If you are lucky some of the concrete will be cracked enough in sections along the highway allowing a glimpse of the sludge. You will want your cameras ready when you pass Bakpakhistan woman carrying 30 litres (8 gallons) of water on their heads just to give their children something to drink. The highlight of the tour is when you stop at former fisherman’s shack and get to view all his mutated and preserved marine animals from the good old days when the river was a cesspool of toxic chemicals.

Pricing on request
Your journey begins with a stop in historic Baghpakh, continuing on to the Bakdur Brothel and Cybercafe for a brief photo opportunity. Then it’s off along the Hvik Highway in a yak cart to experience the incredible beauty of the King Tuj mountains, framed against the towering Timtamistan Cliffs. The Timtamistan Arnottonomous Zone is the most ethnically diverse - and dangerous - region in Bakpakhistan. Local tribes have inhabited these badlands for generations and will not hesitate to dunk your biscuit. Notable tribes include the Timtamoriginal clan, the Order of the Timtamchewykarmelites, Timtamdoublecoats, Timtamdarkks, Timtamlövepötiöns, Timtam-chocölatemudders, Timtamstickyvanillatöffees and the vicious tribe of the Timtam Lattes. On the crest of the Timtamistan Cliffs, you will board a thinly disguised UN aid helicopter for a once-in-a-lifetime, 7 minute, 4,000-foot descent to the mighty Guz River below. At the river’s edge, you’ll board a pontoon boat for a relaxing boat ride down toxic Guz tributaries. Float across the water grasping the inner majesty and mystery of this fabulous chasm. Don’t forget your camera!Happy travels. Or as they say in Bakpashti, Vlassplosspissinskaya!

-Viator Travel Team

* Viator and the local tour operator are not responsible for death, injury, or other harm sustained on this tour. Undertake at your own risk. In fact, maybe just pick something else, we hear the foraging tour is nice, and practical too.

Whatever your opinion, I am adding this preface and reposting because I have a question for you. Week in and week out, this post is one of the most searched for on our blog. Hundreds of people Google ‘1,000 places to see before you die’ and they end up here. And thus I am curious: when you type that search term in Google, what are you actually looking for? Are you simply hunting for a pre-packaged marketing concept broadcast over on the Travel Channel? (If so, I assume you haven’t made it even this far into the post…)

Or are you looking for actual, unbiased, honest-to-goodness travel inspiration? If so, let me make a humble suggestion: Skip the ‘1,000 Places to See Before You Die’ book, television show, T-shirt, DVD, podcast or whatever. Just go. That’s always the best advice. Just pick a destination and go. And as always, leave me a comment telling me what a snob I am, how wrong am I, how right I am.

* * * * * * * *

If only we had made it to Timbuktu

Once upon a time I was excited by the concept of ‘1,000 places to see before I die’. As a lifelong traveler, the idea of visiting a thousand of the world’s most exotic, far-flung and inspiring destinations before — what’s the right word here, perishing? kicking the bucket? fading to black? — felt like something I had to do. Success was not to be judged on actually accomplishing this goal, but in the effort spent trying.

And the effort would be daunting. Assuming you can tackle 1 ‘must-see’ destination per week, you’ll need to set aside nearly 20 years to visit all 1,000 locations. On a budget of $25 per day, those 20 years will cost $182,500. If I adjust for inflation, well, we’re talking some serious cash.

But that’s part and parcel of the concept’s power. To actually visit all 1,000 places requires Commitment (note the capital C). It requires sacrifice. It is not something for weekend warriors or mere armchair travelers.

And then a few years ago I discovered a book called 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. My first reaction was annoyance. I was annoyed that somebody had actually written a book about the concept, thereby sucking the authenticity out of it by transforming the noble idea into a crass commercial project with a bottom line and a marketing plan.

I was equally annoyed that it wasn’t me who had the foresight to suck the authenticity out of the concept, by transforming it into a book with a bottom line and a marketing plan…

Clearly I had been scooped. But who was the author? Was she in the model of Tony Wheeler, the legendary founder of Lonely Planet and a man who knows travel? (Pardon this brief detour: Check out Tony’s book, Bad Lands, an account of his travels in George W. Bush’s so-called ‘axis of evil’, Iraq, North Korea and Iran. Now that’s a travel book!)

The author is Patricia Schultz. I’ve never met Patricia. But I’m certain she is a lovely person. She is a freelance travel and fashion writer based in New York City. And as a one-time freelancer based in New York myself, I can recognize Patricia’s project for what it is: a great idea written by somebody who was at the right place, at the right time.

Don’t get me wrong. I think the concept is 100% compelling. And I think some of Patricia’s recommendations — a hot-air balloon ride over the plains of Kenya, the Pushkar camel fair in India, etc — are spot on.

I just wish the book had been written by a road-weary traveler who has spent — sacrificed, struggled through — 20 years personally tracking down each and every one of these ‘must see’ sites. I suspect that our New York City-based travel writer has not personally visited more than, say, 50 of the 1,000 places she writes about. I’m happy to be proven wrong. (If she has visited more than 250, I will eat a hat. If she’s ticked off more than 500 on the list I will personally carry her bags and cook her meals on her next trek in Nepal.)

Normally I don’t get this worked up. However a few weeks ago I started seeing television commercials — and billboards and magazine ads — about a new show on the Travel Channel called ‘1,000 Places to See Before You Die‘. The advertisements were omnipresent. They were slick. And they did a good job getting me excited about the show’s USA premiere last month. So I surfed the Travel Channel website and found this:

“Inspired by Patricia Schultz’s best-selling travel book, ‘1,000 Places to See Before You Die’ chronicles the journey of a young couple who put their lives on hold to travel the world for 14 weeks.

Albin and Melanie Ulle, newlyweds from Colorado, experience the vast beauty and diverse cultures of 13 amazing countries and approximately 100 of the 1,000 Places from the book, while unearthing all the local charms and traditions along the way!”

Hang on a second. I was expecting some life-changing description. I was expecting the Travel Channel to throw resources at this idea and to create the definitive television travel experience. Maybe my expectations were unrealistically high. But I can tell you I was not expecting “a young couple who put their lives on hold to travel the world for 14 weeks.”

Fourteen weeks? Are you serious? 14 weeks? That’s barely three months. Was this TV show really about a newly married couple who travel the world for 14 weeks? Because in some parts of the world these are called ‘honeymoons’ and they don’t usually end up on television.

I know of a dozen people out there, on the road right now, who are better qualified to lead armchair travelers on a journey to the world’s top 1,000 sites. How is it that the producers of the show don’t bother to include some authentic travelers into the mix?

The answers — that character-led programming is what drives television ratings, that this couple beat out 900 other couples in the auditions because telegenic good looks are more important than actual travel experience, that nobody really cares if the backstory is coherent as long as the program makes money — are no surprise.

The problem, of course, is that a show about real travelers, going to real places, would not make money. Alas, this is why I am not a television executive. Yet I am a traveler. I have authored a dozen travel books and visited more than 50 countries. I am not bragging. I am just saying I can tell the difference between travelers and tourists.

And on the road leading to the world’s 1,000 must-see places, the Ulles from Colorado are merely tourists. There’s nothing wrong with that. The world needs tourists. But I wish the producers had shown us the real travelers they met along the way. In doing so they would have created a compelling television program that lives up to the promise of its concept. Instead we get ‘travel lite’ with too many commercials.

-Scott McNeely

Naturally nobody has a map, but the general instructions seem to be, “head west to the big road, then head south; turn right just before you hit Bangkok“. Uh-huh. Great instructions to cover a 900km trip!

Thai Group Consciousness (TGC) - it's for real!

So it’s 4am, off we set westerly into the darkness. Sure enough after an hour or two we hit “the big road,” and duly turn south. A few more hours, and the dreaded murmur begins to make its way around the car: “shortcut!”. Everyone’s getting restless, so it’s time for a Thai Shortcut. “Turn right,” go the instructions, so off I turn, away from “the big road” heading east.

Naturally, no-one’s taking personal responsibility, but the on-board Thai Group Consciousness (see below) is giving instructions: ‘right’, ‘left’, ‘right’, ‘right’; with the roads slowly getting smaller each time. I’m getting a wee bit (!) frustrated, as I don’t fancy doing a 900km trip via village back-streets, and would really like to arrive before the week is out. “Relax,” says Ann, “people know where they’re going”.

Sure enough, half an hour later, we end up in the carpark of some forlorn temple, in the middle of nowhere. “Maybe we should ask for directions,” I suggest.

So we consult the guard, and ask him how we get to Nakon Patom. And he tells us “sure, turn left, right, left and left, get on the big road, head south a few hundred kilometers, turn right just before you hit Bangkok”

The next day everyone chipped in and bought me a map.

————————————————————————————

Thoughts About Thai Group Consciousness (let’s call it TGC)

It’s a strange thing, and none of the other farangs (Westerners) here can explain it either, but Thailand seems to operate on a different plane of consciousness. Firstly, no-one can ever make an individual decision. Any decision is always given to the group (there’s always a group), and collectively, after much sitting around, arm-waving, pointing in odd directions, the ‘group’ collectively arrives at its decision, with no-one accountable for blame.

Secondly, the TGC has brilliant long-range communication. Case in point: last year David (who’s English) and Noi, friends of ours, decided to visit my wife’s mum to collect some chickens. They live about 120km away, and had never been to her place. So they set off with vague instructions, and about half way there they decide they’d better bring a gift. So soon they pass a plant nursery, and pull in to buy a pot-plant for Ann’s mum. Meanwhile, Ann’s mum has become worried that maybe they might get lost, so decides to get in contact with them. But she doesn’t know their mobile number.

So David’s standing in the nursery, somewhere between his place and Ann’s, when the owner of the nursery approaches him with the office telephone. “It’s for you” he says, handing the phone to David…

-Jordan Digby

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Thailand, Bangkok tours and activities in Phuket.

Last year we had an amazing set of photo winners (skip to the bottom if you’re curious about 2007’s winners). This year, if the truth be told, it was nearly impossible to select only 10 top travel photos.

The problem?

The problem is you all take such excellent photos. Sure sure, that sounds like we’re sucking up to you, but it’s the honest-to-goodness truth. We had a very difficult time selecting just 10 photos. So we made a compromise. We did select our 10 favorites, but this year we’re also including a handful of runner-up photos. We’ll let you decide if we selected (or not) the 10 best. Now without further ado, here are the top 10 photos submitted by travelers on Viator.com in 2008.

Top 10 Traveler Photos from 2008

#10. Jungfraujoch Top-of-Europe Day Trip from Lucerne, Switzerland

Ivy made it to the top

Ivy took a tour to the top of Jungfraujoch at 11,333 feet (3454 meters) in Switzerland. The scenery is stunning, and the smiles are infectious. Thanks Ivy! (See more photos of this tour here.)

#9. 4-Day Canyons and National Parks Tour, from Las Vegas

Philippe's amazing photo of horse and rider in Monument Valley

If we didn’t know better, we’d think this was a still photo from a John Wayne film. But it’s not. Philippe took this photo on a 4-day tour to Monument Valley from Las Vegas. Doesn’t this photo make you want to go there??

#8. Gladiator Training School in Rome

Rob in his mask at the Rome Gladiator school

You’ve seen the movie, right? Maybe you didn’t know you can also learn to be a gladiator yourself at this school in Rome, Italy. Rob took this photo, and said the helmets are heavy but very cool! (You can check out more photos of the Rome Gladiator School.)

#7. Elephant Trek, Rafting and Hilltribe Tour from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Carolyn on the Mae Pring River

Carolyn’s smile is what won our hearts. Has anybody every looked happier rafting down a lazy river in Thailand on their way to trek with elephants and meet the local hill tribes? Nope, and that’s why we selected it. Thanks Carolyn!

#6. Naples and Pompeii Day Trip, from Rome

Angela is on top of the world

Angela’s caption for her photo was simply, “On top of the world.” She looks supremely regal and thoroughly happy exploring the ruins of Pompeii on a day trip from Rome.

#5. 4×4 Desert Safari, Dubai

Steve's kids riding a camel for the first time in Dubai

Steve took this photo of his kids riding a camel for the first time, in the desert dunes of Dubai on a 4×4 Desert Safari tour. Do you think those two happy-looking kids will remember this experience for a very, very long time? Yes, we do. Nice one, Steve. (Click here to see more photos of the Dubai Desert Safari tour.)

#4. Arch de Triomphe & Eiffel Tower, Paris

Saibal, with a postcard-perfect view of Paris

This photo is from Saibal - or more likely, from a fellow traveler who took this photo of the couple at the top of the Arc de Triomphe, looking out over the Eiffel Tower (which they visited as part of the Paris Pass). Saibal’s caption notes that “it was a captivating view of Paris, after climbing 287 steps.” And that’s what we love about this photo - the mix of fatigue, and the pride of accomplishment, on their faces after tackling those 287 steps and being rewarded with a stunning view of Paris.

#3. Harbor Lights Night Cruise in New York City

As David says, his photo of the Statue of Liberty speaks for itself

David took this photo on a Harbor Lights Night Cruise in New York. He’s caption pretty much sums up our feelings: “Lady Liberty in the Twilight - Speaks for itself.” Yes David, we agree, your photo pretty much speaks for itself.

#2. Sydney Opera House, Sydney

Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia

Jordan caught the Sydney Opera House at sunset, just as the sun was dropping behind Sydney’s iconic harbor-front landmark. Great timing, Jordan, and a great photo.

#1. Black River Safari, Negril, Jamaica

Here is why we travel - to do something unforgettable with the people you love

You may not have heard of Negril, Jamaica (it’s one of the top vacation spots in Jamaica, in case you were wondering). But this photo of Brenda and her family (Mikey, Marissa & Wyatt) on the Negril Black River Safari captures the spirit of ‘why we travel’. It’s not where you sleep and it’s not how you get there - it is what you do. And perhaps even more important - it is who you do it with. Here at Viator we received photos of more exotic locations, more extreme adventures, more unique things to do… yet in the end we awarded the #1 spot to Brenda and her family because her photo captured the spirit of going somewhere and doing something fun with the people you care about most.

And really, isn’t that why we travel?

Runners-Up: 2008 Traveler Photos

This year there were simply too many great photos to pick only 10. So here’s a short list of the runners-up from 2008. Thanks again to the thousands of travelers who submitted their trip and tour photos to Viator.com this year.

Changing of the Guard, London. Photographer: Arthur C

Sports Lover Tour, Melbourne. Photographer: Joanne B

Loro Park, Tenerife. Photographer: Anonymous

Washington DC Monuments by Moonlight Tour, Photographer: Marcel D

South Sea Island Day Cruise, Fiji. Photographer: Alexandra S

Dolphin Swim, Oahu, Hawaii. Photographer: Sally C

Monzee Lake, near Salzburg, Austria. Photographer: Dani B

Grand Canyon Skywalk, Grand Canyon. Photographer: Christina T

Top 10 Traveler Photos from 2007

Just for the record, here are the photos we honored last year. Viator’s 2007 list of the top 10 photos of the travel year.

#10. 4×4 Dubai Desert Safari in Dubai

4x4 Dubai Desert Safari

Here’s a shot taken by Merridy in Dubai, on a 4×4 Desert Desert Safari. Merridy’s comment: “The kids loved it. We are glowing with praise for your fantastic desert safari and your even more fantastic staff who drove, cooked and looked after my daughter, her 9 year old son, 5 year old daughter and me… the grandmother!”

We chose this for our top 10 list because the kids do, very much indeed, look happy riding that camel at sunset. You can browse more photos of the Dubai 4×4 desert safari over on the Viator website.

#9. Dive & Snorkel Cruise from Cairns, Australia

Samantha on the Dive and Snorkel Cruise to Agincourt Ribbon Reef

Hello Samantha! What a funny shot of you underwater on the Dive and Snorkel Cruise to Agincourt Ribbon Reef from Cairns. Samantha’s caption: “Me, trying to take a picture of my self at Agincourt Reef!” And for attempting that underwater self-portrait, we salute you Samantha. Browse more photos of this dive & snorkel cruise on the Viator website.

#8. Champagne Sunset Cruise in St Lucia, the Caribbean

Angela's sunset shot

Here’s a postcard-perfect shot of sunset on the Caribbean island of St Lucia, taken by Angela after her St Lucia Champagne Sunset Cruise. Check out a few more of Angela’s photos of St Lucia, all of which make us want to book the next flight to St Lucia.

#7.Elephant Trek & River Rafting in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Laurie's Elephant Trek

Laurie took this shot of “elephants heading back home up the river after our jungle trek,” and for us it captures the thrill of taking an elephant jungle trek in Thailand. There’s something very cool and hypnotic about that long line of elephants slowly snaking up the river. See more of Laurie’s photos of her elephant trek in Thailand.

#6. Niagara Falls Day Trip from New York City

Sophie, Katherine and Sean

Say hello to Sophie, Katherine and Sean. Don’t they look happy? Don’t they look wet? Don’t they look like they’re having a blast exploring the Niagara Falls on a day trip from New York City? Yes we thought so, too. Check out more of Sean’s photos of the Niagara Falls day trip from NYC.

#5. Ayers Rock (Uluru) Camel Sunset Tour in Ayers Rock, Australia

Gillian on her camel

Hmm, not sure we intended to have a camel theme to our top photos of the year. But good photos are good photos, and this snap by Gillian of her Ayers Rock Sunset Camel Tour caught our fancy. Kangaroos in Australia? Sure. Koalas and wombats, too. But camels? Mate, you better believe it. Check out more photos of the Ayers Rock camel tour.

#4. Vatican & Sistine Chapel Tour, Rome

James' Vatican photo

The Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, Rome… these are some of the most stunning sites in Europe. And we liked James’ photo above because it captures the awe-inspiring beauty of the Vatican’s architecture. Check out more photos of the Vatican & Sistine Chapel walking tour.

#3. Grand Canyon Helicopter Tour, from Las Vegas

Katie's Grand Canyon shot

For some people, Las Vegas is all about gambling. For others it’s all about the glitz and the glamor. For others it’s about easy access to sites such as Death Valley and the one-of-a-kind Grand Canyon. We selected Katie’s photo above, on her All American Grand Canyon helicopter tour, because it captures the Grand Canyon’s majestic natural beauty with the shadows of a few fleeting clouds on an otherwise crystal-clear day. Great photo, Katie. (Click here to see more photos.)

#2. Paris City Tour in a Citroen 2CV, in Paris

Happy 40th, Nancy!

Fancy a private tour of Paris in a Citroen 2cv? Nick and Nancy (above) did, and here’s what Nick had to say: “This was a trip down memory lane - my wife and I both drove 2CVs in the 1980s. I organised the tour for my wife’s 40th birthday, and it was great to hear the familiar rumble of a 2CV as it approached the hotel. This was a brilliant way to see Paris, and we were the centre of attention wherever we went. Great fun.”

#1. Statue of Liberty at Sunset, New York City

Costa's photo of the Statue of Liberty

The Big Apple, it’s our kind of town. New York City is one of the world’s most iconic destinations, and it’s a safe bet that Manhattan’s skyline is the most recognizable in the world (More recognizable than Paris? Yes. More than London? Yes.). We chose Costa’s image of the Statue of Liberty at sunset as our top photo of the year because it is, simply, a beautiful photo of one of New York’s most famous sites. Congratulations Costas.

And we hope your future travels include more of Viator’s tours and things to do, if only because we hope you send us more of your great trip photos!

-The Viator Travel Team

The Blancaneaux Lodge, Belize

It’s Better in Belize. You Better Belize It. It’s Unbelizeable.

If I had a nickel for each time I saw a Belize-inspired T-shirt, I’d have at least 60 cents by now. Maybe a buck.

The problem is not a lack of T-shirts. Trust me, there are heaps on sale in Belize. The problem is that Belize is one of those places that refuses to become mainstream. Every few years something thrusts Belize into the global spotlight.

Yet beyond the occasional news item, most travelers know little if anything about Belize. Don’t belize me? OK smarty pants, let’s test your knowledge with my patented Belize Pop Quiz.

• True or false, there is a Guinness brewery in Belize.
• True or false, there are British army troops stationed in Belize.
• True or false, filmmaker George Lucas has a posh jungle lodge in Belize.
• True or false, the following countries all border Belize: Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras.
• True or false, the most popular radio station in Belize is called Love FM.

OK, let’s see how you scored. The answer to question #1 is true. Belize has its very own Guinness brewery, under license from the mothership back at St James’s Gate, Dublin. This is also where Belize’s homegrown beer, Belikin, is bottled.

Question 2? True. The British Army maintains troops in Belize, a remnant of the days when Belize was a UK possession known as “British Honduras” (Belize gained full independence in 1981).

Question 3? You can be forgiven for missing this, it was a trick question. The answer is false because it’s not George Lucas but Francis Ford Coppola who stumbled across a dilapidated jungle retreat in 1981 and, 12 years later, opened the utterly lovely Blancaneaux resort (more on that below).

Question 4? False. Only Mexico and Guatemala share a border with Belize, not Honduras.

And question 5? True. ‘Thank you for choosing love’ is the unofficial motto of Love FM. My favorite DJ used to sign off with “…here are super-fantastic kisses to you and you and you” (it sounds best in a Belizean accent).

If you scored 5/5 on the quiz, give yourself a gold star and go read a different blog post because there’s little I can teach you about Belize. If you scored 2 or more out of 5 then keep on reading, you may need a Belize refresher course. If you scored less than that, ohhhhh how I envy you. It means you don’t know much about Belize. More to the point, it means you can have the distinct pleasure of discovering Belize for the first time. Whenever I meet somebody who has not heard of Belize I feel like giving them an award: first place in the ‘about to have the experience of a lifetime’ category.

Without further ado, my suggested itineraries for making the most of your time in Belize.

Belize: Before You Go

Lighthouse Lager, Belize's 'other' beer

The first decision you need to make is this: ocean first, ruins and mountains second; or ruins and mountains first, ocean second. I typically opt for the latter course. I like to have my adventures up front, then relax and unwind after. While you can’t make a bad choice, you do need to make a choice because it will define the shape of your entire trip. I’m going to assume you prefer adventure up front, as well, and offer my suggestions accordingly.

The second decision you need to make is this: to Belize City or not to Belize City? I will not lie to you. Belize City is not the most beautiful city in Central America (though if you’re coming from Tegucigalpa, well, it feels like paradise here). Belize City is a fine transport hub. It even has a few decent restaurants. But if you’re short on time it is OK to skip Belize City. The reality is, you’ll pass through here at least twice on your way to/from the reef and the airport.

The last decision you need to make is this: to drive or not to drive? Belize is a small easy-to-navigate country. There are only 4 main roads and buses are decent (I didn’t say comfortable, I merely said decent). So there is no reason that you must have a 4×4. That said, Belize is a very easy place to drive (on the right, despite the British influences). It’s also REALLY REALLY FUN to take a 4×4 into the jungle. I can’t imagine visiting Belize without having a 4×4 (and yes, you do need a 4×4) at my beck and call. I usually rent through a company called Crystal Auto because they have an office at the airport and in Belize City, and will shuttle you for free between the two locations. All you need is a driver’s license from your home country plus the basic insurance that comes with the vehicle.

Belize Itineraries: Jungles, Mountains, Maya Ruins

Assuming you take my advice and start with mountains and jungles and decide to rent a 4×4, here’s what you do. Fly into Belize City, grab your bags, walk across the parking lot to the car-rental offices, get your 4×4, and head out on the Western Highway to San Ignacio.

Hands down, the best inland base for travelers is the town of San Ignacio. There’s something incredibly charming about the place; it feels like a mix between a forgotten colonial outpost and a modern backpacker’s paradise. There is a good range of hotels, lodges and restaurants here. And San Ignacio is an excellent hub for day trips.

River Cave Tubing in Belize

Things to Do: Even if you’re not staying at Blancaneaux (see below), make the journey up into the Mountain Pine Ridge to the Rio Frio Cave. This is a stunningly massive cave with a river running through it. I don’t know if it’s “safe” to swim here, but I have done it many times, always with bats dive-bombing my head. I also think the Rio On pools, just past Blancaneaux, are worth a swim (despite the leech-like animals that stuck to my skin). And it goes without saying, it’s worth the $10 for a drink and snack at the bar at Blancaneaux, since you’re in the neighborhood.

Another popular thing to do is cave tubing. It’s a blast, I highly recommend it. Also on my “recommended” list are the ruins at Xuanantunich, which is a smallish but interesting temple complex overlooking the Mopan River; and the ruins at Cahal Pech plus the nearby Panti Medicinal Trails. If you’re up for a serious adventure, spend the day driving (about 2 hours each way) to the recently discovered ruins at Caracol. The drive alone, through jungle and untouched parts of the border region, is worth the effort.

On the way to or from Belize City, the Belize Zoo is worth a visit. I don’t remember which animal it was (the tapir, maybe), but when you see a sign that says ‘warning, this animal may pee on you’, they are not kidding, trust me on this. (If you like animals, also check out the Belize Community Baboon Sanctuary.)

Places to Stay: I’ll just get it out of the way, since it’s obvious how much I really enjoy staying at Francis Ford Coppola’s Blancaneaux lodge. It is simply stunning. Be sure to ask for one of the three-walled bungalows facing the river. The fourth wall is actually just a screen, which lets in the melodious gurgle of the nearby river and a cool breeze. Heaven.

I can also recommend a few of the more traditional lodges in Belize. Most of these are fairly expensive, but the service, location and overall experience are wonderful. Try the Chaa Creek Lodge, duPlooy’s Jungle Lodge, or the Windy Hill Resort. Less expensive (but good all the same) is the Parrot Nest Lodge.

Day Trip to Guatemala: Before you head back to Belize City for a week on the reef, consider taking a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala. Tikal is one of the best-preserved Mayan ruins in Central America. I’ve done this trip a few times, by bus, by 4×4 and by plane. If you’re short on time, the plane is a great option.

Belize Itineraries: The Reef

Sunset on Caye Caulker

If you’re following my trip plan, head back to Belize City and drop off your 4×4 at the rental office. Politely ask for a lift to the Belize City ferry port and catch the first ferry out of town. Your destination? The reef.

Belize’s reef is one of the finest in Central America, despite recent hurricane damage. Unless you’re planning a live-aboard diving trip, you’ll probably end up in one of two places: Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye (caye is pronounced like ‘key’). Choosing between them is easy. If you prefer a backpacker vibe and a mellow pace, Caye Caulker is for you. If you want more restaurant, hotel, shopping and nightlife options, Ambergris Caye (and its main town of San Pedro) is for you.

The main thing to do on either island is relax. Beach, beer, swimming, napping, the island life is blissful in Belize. After a few days you may be itching for an adventure. In which case there’s snorkeling and/or watching manatees, world-class diving, sailing, fishing and (if you’re on one of those mega-fancy resorts) golfing.

Belize: The other bits

The mainland town of Placencia in southern Belize is a coastal gem, with easy access to southern diving sites and plenty of things to do in the surrounding jungle. If you look at a map you’ll wonder what else is near Placencia, and if it’s worth the trek in its own right. That’s a tough call, since Placencia is so pleasant. I guess if push comes to shove, skip it if you only have a week or two in Belize, and save it for the next visit. If you do make it to Placencia, check out Coppola’s Turtle Cove Inn.

Another part of Belize that falls into this category is Orange Walk, way up in the north, and the nearby ruins of Lamanai, one of the finest in all Belize. This is a real trek from Belize City, and you’ll need to dedicate a few days (at least) if you’re heading out this way. If you can afford it, I highly recommend the Lamanai Outpost Lodge.

-Scott McNeely

Planning a trip to Belize? Check out all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Belize or browse more of Scott’s photos of Belize.

Istanbul at sunset

I have a crystal-clear memory of my very first morning in Istanbul. It was 1996. I was on assignment for Lonely Planet and Fodor’s to update their respective guidebooks to Turkey. My flight arrived late, 10pm or something.

I jumped into a taxi and headed straight to the small hotel I had booked in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet district.

The last thing I remember before collapsing into bed is opening the window of my 4th-floor room. Ahhh, the fresh evening air of Istanbul. So refreshing.

My next memory? It’s a little hard to explain. Try this. Grab a bullhorn and turn the volume to ‘maximum’. Then ask a friend to place that bullhorn –> <– this far from your head. Now, have your friend turn it on and scream ALLAHHHHHHHHHHHHH at the top of their lungs. The whole thing will sound a little like this (click the “hear alarm” link; this is among the best travel shwag I have ever purchased).

San Francisco? Nope. Istanbul.

The problem? My bedroom window was literally, and I mean literally, 10 feet away from the loudspeaker atop the neighborhood mosque. It was my first morning in a Muslim country, and by god why didn’t anybody tell me about the ear-bursting call to prayer at 5:40am???

It nearly killed me. The sound was deafening. I bolted half-dressed out of bed into the hallway of the hotel, jumping up and down like a MAD MAN.

Lucky for me, nobody witnessed my half-naked pogo dance. And as the call to prayer faded, I realized my error and slipped back into my room. Lesson learned.

Since then I’ve visited Istanbul 7 or 8 times. I dream of going back again. I’ve also considered living there, except that my tongue and brain are incapable of pronouncing the Turkish language. (Go on, I dare you to pronounce “Afedersiniz! Hala faturamı bekliyorum,” or “Türkiye çok güzel bir ülkedir.”) So while I continue daydreaming about my next visit, let me share a few reasons to cancel your next holiday and instead catch the first flight to Istanbul.

Scott’s 5 Reasons to Love Istanbul

1. For western travelers, Istanbul is truly exotic. The dictionary defines exotic as “intriguingly unusual or different; excitingly strange” and that’s a great way to think about Istanbul. The sights, the sounds, the food, the music, the culture — it’s all excitingly strange, intriguingly unusual.
2. Istanbul is a good introduction to traveling in a Muslim country. I’ve been asked dozens of times, “Is it safe to travel in Muslim countries?” Yes, it is safe. Terrorism, anti-Westernism and anti-Americanism certainly exist in Turkey. But they exist in Canada, too. Istanbul– and Turkey in general — is incredibly safe and, for first-time visitors to the Muslim world, the perfect introduction.
3. Istanbul is the most beautiful city on the planet. I’m prepared to duke it out with any naysayers. San Francisco and Sydney? Sure they’re nice places, but Istanbul does the whole ‘waterfront coastal’ thing even better. Paris and Rome? OK, yeah, they’re pretty. But Istanbul’s skyline is equally stunning. Prague? You’re getting closer. But Istanbul, too, has a centuries-old historical pedigree (Istanbul was capital of the Roman, Ottoman and Byzantine empires) and has the architecture to prove it.
4. If you held a contest to find the “World’s Nicest People” the Turks would come in second place, just after the Vietnamese. The Turks are incredibly hospitable, gracious, serious, sincere, you name it. I’ve traveled through 50+ countries in my life, and I’ve found few people as warm and friendly as the Turks.
5. Turkey! Istanbul is only the tip of the iceberg — Turkey itself has some amazing places to visit, from Cappadocia to the Aegean to the Black Sea.

OK. Enough of the hard-sell job. It’s obvious I love Istanbul. It’s obvious it’s a great place to visit. What’s not obvious is why you haven’t booked a ticket yet???

Resources for Travelers to Istanbul

• Cool hotel: The Empress Zoe in Sultanahmet. A small boutique hotel with a great rooftop deck overlooking the Golden Horn.


Scott at Erenler Nargile Salonu

• Eat here: any of the restaurants in and around Cicek Pasaji in Beyoglu, just off Istiklal Caddesi. This is a small L-shaped galleria with a long line of rowdy taverna-style restaurants. Eat fish, drink raki, repeat.
• Do this: Take a half-day Bosphorus Cruise and visit the Egyptian bazaar.
• Smoke this: apple- and honey-infused tobacco in a Turkish nargile (water pipe). The nargile is one of Turkey’s great gifts to the world. And my favorite place to enjoy one in Istanbul is the Erenler Nargile Salonu, just off Yeniceriler Cadessi, in a madressi tucked off the main street behind a cemetery.
• More info: You can download or listen to a Podcast I made a few years ago about Turkey (including some great sound clips of a call to prayer) or check out some of my favorite Turkish websites: Turkish Daily News, the English-language weekly newspaper; and Istanbul Portal, which does a nice job on history and culture. Also check out my Top 5 things to do in Istanbul.

-Scott McNeely

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours and things to do in Istanbul and tours in Turkey.

Fancy a beach holiday in Malaysia?

I’ll let you in on a secret…

Thailand is not the only country in southeast Asia with stunning beaches. Malaysia has dozens of tiny islands on both the east and west coast that rival the beauty of southern Thailand. Plus, the beaches in Malaysia have the added advantage of being relatively unknown (read: cheaper, less crowded, more unspoilt).

One important fact to keep in mind when planning a trip to any of Malaysia’s beaches is the monsoon season - do not visit the east coast of Malaysia between November and March, unless you like rain. Lots of rain. That one caveat aside, here are my top picks for a beach-hopping Malaysian adventure.

Beast Beaches: East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia

Malaysia’s east coast is the top spot to catch some rays for those living in Kuala Lumpur (KL) – it’s cheap and easy to reach by plane on one of the country’s budget airlines, even for just a long weekend. The water is crystal clear, the beaches are powdery soft and blindingly white. My favorites on the east coast are:

Redang. The most expensive of the east coast islands, Redang is truly paradise. Very few Malaysians actually live on the island, so you pretty much have the whole place to yourself. Snorkeling is available off any beach; if you’re lucky, you might even see some sea turtles. Redang is well known as a turtle sanctuary, they usually lay their eggs on Turtle Beach on the north of the island. Berjaya Air makes it very easy to get to Redang from KL’s Subang airport (a 45-minute flight, and you’re on the beach within five minutes of arriving).

The beach at Redang, Malaysia, is paradise

Perhentian Islands. A selection of smaller islands just north of Redang, the Perhentians are very popular with budget travelers. The beaches are totally unspoilt, with a wide variety of beach huts right on the shore, for just the right price. A favorite for diving and snorkeling, the Perhentians are a great place to earn your scuba diving certificate.

Tioman Island. Part of Malaysia’s protected marine park islands, Tioman is a snorkeling and divers paradise. The abundant coral reefs off the northern coast of the island are home to a huge variety of colorful tropical fish within easy reach of the shore. Tioman is quite close to Singapore, towards the south of Malaysia’s east coast and sees quite a few tourists from both Singapore and Malaysia each year. You will find larger, more budget-friendly hotels all around this popular island. Berjaya Air offers quick and easy flights directly to Tioman or you can take the bus to the coast, and then a ferry to the island.

Best Beaches: West Coast of Peninsular Malaysia

Langkawi. Malaysia’s duty-free island, Langkawi is the most touristy and lively island on the west coast. Although the beaches aren’t quite as beautiful as those on the east coast, there is a much wider variety of hotels, restaurants, and shops on this tourist hot spot. Langkawi has the added advantage of being available all year round – no monsoon closures for this northern island.

The island is big enough for more than just beach sports, which make it especially attractive for more active travelers. There is a beautiful hike up to the Seven Wells (waterfalls) on the north of the island or the absolutely beautiful cable car ride up to the top of the highest mountain on Langkawi – providing breathtaking views of the ocean and nearby islands. Langkawi is also home to the most luxurious hotels Malaysia has to offer – the Datai and the Four Seasons. If you’re looking for a weekend of pampering, look no further than the beautiful island of Langkawi.

Pangkor Island. Although not the most beautiful of Malaysian beaches, Pangkor is within an easy drive from KL – a great option for a weekend escape. There are several large hotels around Pangkor Island, but most expats opt for the Pangkor Beach Resort. If you’re looking to splurge, Pangkor Laut is a privately owned island resort with stunning over-water bungalows, 5-star service, and door-to-door transportation included. An easy weekend get-away from the hustle and bustle of KL.

Borneo. The island of Borneo, shared between Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia is quickly becoming a hot spot for well-traveled divers. On the west coast of Borneo, Turtle Beach and Golden Beach are part of the Similajau National Park. Both beaches are turtle nesting grounds, within a larger nature reserve full of tropical wildlife, jungle streams, waterfalls and plenty of animal residents. The natural parks of Sarawak are the perfect place to enjoy an invigorating jungle trek, bird watching, or just relaxing on the many perfect beaches. Sipadan, on the east coast of Borneo, is one of the top dive spots in the world, by far the best in Malaysia. The island is an environmental reserve area so there are limits to the number of visitors per day. Diving in Sipadan is an amazing experience – you may see schools of greenback and hawksbill turtles, barracuda, manta rays, even hammerhead and whale sharks! The island is best for diving, rather than snorkeling or sunbathing, so make sure you plan in advance for a full-on diving experience.

Travel Tips & Precautions

Not to sound like your mother, but…

• Pack plenty of sunblock. While sunblock should be available at most resorts, some hotels on the smaller islands can be understocked. Since Malaysia isn’t far from the equator, just a few minutes in the midday sun can leave you scorched.
• Bring mosquito repellent and walking shoes. Even if you plan to vegetate on the beach every day, you might find yourself trekking through Malaysia’s abundant and colorful rain forest at some point.
• Don’t lose your cool. As in most Asian societies, Malaysian culture values polite interactions which allow both parties to “save face”. Courteous persistence with resort staff or locals will probably get you further than getting visibly upset. Note that Islamic tradition dictates that you should hand things to Malays using your right hand, not your left.
• Safeguard your valuables. Regardless of how secure your resort might seem, tourists’ piles of expensive cameras and telephones can be tempting to locals, and things do occasionally go missing. Use the safe in your room, or leave valuables at the hotel desk, and keep an eye on your goods while bathing.

-Kim Cofino

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s list of things to do in Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur tours & sightseeing tours, Penang, Langkawi and Sabah & Sarawak. Also check out Viator’s tips for first-time visitors in Malaysia and our list of Top 25 Things to Do in Asia.

Like most cities, San Francisco has its distinguished museums and brilliantly lit galleries, and it also has a healthy supply of what is sometimes described as “low-brow” art: graffiti, skateboard paintings, tattoo art, underground comix and so on.

Traditional mural in San Francisco's Mission District

Spanning the full range of SF’s art spectrum, and blurring the distinctions somewhat, are the murals for which the city is rightly famous. They’re all over town – in the lobbies of government buildings and along alleyways that double as urinals for the homeless. Celebrated treasures (including three by Diego Rivera) are hidden away in the Financial District and on college campuses around town. But murals are at heart a public artform - they are art for the common man. So for an appreciation of San Francisco’s murals let’s head to the Mission District, where the spirit of the art is community-based and still very much alive.

Murals in the Mission: Some Context

Firstly, a little background. The Mission has a long history as a Latin American neighborhood, going back to the early 1960s. Murals, in the tradition of Rivera and Jose Orosco, are a natural fit in a politically aware, working-class enclave bustling with tiendas (shops) and taquerias. The Mission also has solid counter-cultural inclinations, which brings a diverse appreciation for public art. These varying approaches coexist and fuse nicely all over the neighborhood, emblazoning buildings with color and character.

I button-holed a friend, John Fadeff, to join me for this walk. John’s a gruff-talking painter who has done a few murals around town, and I’ve always admired his work, as do a number of San Francisco artists. I have a painting by him hanging on my bathroom wall, above the toilet, and I never grow tired of it. I thought I’d let John talk my ear off as we walked the Mission’s tattoo’d alleyways, so we fueled up on grilled-snapper tacos at a clean little joint called Tansitaro Michoacan on 24th Street. We then ducked into a corner liquor store so John could purchase a bottle of tequila, and though there were only two aisles in the store, he promptly disappeared on me. Ten minutes later we found each other out front, where I’d been scanning the street hoping to spot him. John emerged from the shop, cradling a brown paper bag, explaining: “I asked the owner where he keeps the tequila he showed me to the back room. Sorry.”

He laughs through a closed mouth, seemingly pleased with the way things have turned out. John is the kind of guy who generally declines a drink, unless it’s tequila. On his birthday last summer he received three or four bottles of the stuff. One of the bottles was shaped like a Tommy gun. It was the loopiest party I’ve been to in years. Anyway, we finally hit the pavement in earnest, gabbing.

Murals in the Mexican Tradition

We start at Balmy Alley, between 24th and 25th. Solidly walled by garage doors and backyard fences, and seldom attracting auto traffic, it’s the ideal alley for a Sharks vs. Jets knife fight, or a stray cat feast among dented trashcans and discarded fish bones. Local artists have turned it into a block-long, open-air hall of murals. As we enter off 24th St., Susan Cervantes’ mural of a woman dropping a baby from her private parts grabs my attention, and we look at many murals inspired by Aztecan imagery and the political activism revolving around the Central American wars of the 1970s and ’80s.

Balmy Alley mural, with Rigo's Cantinflas portrait. Dancing woman by Carolyn Castaño

One depicts campesinas wielding machine guns. (Suddenly John’s Tommy gun tequila bottle makes perfect sense…) Some of the oldest murals on the block were painted in the 1970s by a group of women artists who called themselves Las Mujeres Muralistas. Their left-leaning political messages, florid color schemes, and phantasmagoric compositions mesh fairly easily with the psychedelia and earth mothers favored by West Coast boomers. The weapons are pure Latin revolutionary, however.

Some of the older murals are fading. John says, “That’s the thing about outdoor paintings, they’re exposed to the elements. Or a fence rots and needs to be replaced. A car could crash into a garage door. That’s just part of it. The art’s not so precious.”

Halfway down the alley we stop before a provocative cartoony mural (“Now, who did this one?” John muses, obviously interested) and then another depicting classic Mexican film stars in black and white. Here again the style is not traditional. John points out a portrait of the Mexican comedian Cantinflas, painted by Rigo, who is more prominently represented elsewhere around town. Rigo’s signature South of Market murals (One Tree, Inner City Home) are city landmarks. Here, his work blends in with the work of others, in a collaborative piece.

“That’s another important thing. Murals are often group efforts,” John adds. “There is a communal spirit to it.”

Murals on Barbershops & Corner Markets

We move through the neighborhood, pausing as we reach my parked car so John can stash his bottle, still unopened, beneath the passenger seat. We pause again in front of a barber shop on 23rd Street. It’s completely covered by a mural by Susan Greene that includes contributions by John. As a painter, one of the things he likes about murals is the unpredictable audience. “Certain types of people go to galleries, so the audience is limited. But you never know who might walk by this barber shop.”

Barbershop mural, 23rd and Mission Streets

Naturally, public art is more vulnerable than something framed and hung in a gallery. In addition to the weather, taggers and self-appointed cultural police always lurk. We reach a corner market where one exterior wall is covered with plywood to protect a controversial mural underneath. The mural was vandalized by people who disagreed with its political message. The art has been saved by the plywood, but essentially is censored.

Murals for Post-Punk Counterculturalistas

Without its continuous murals, Clarion Alley, between Mission and Valencia, would just be a gritty alley inviting illicit activities, but this is not why John seems more at home here. He was on the scene as local artists began its transformation in the early 1990s. According to John, the Clarion Alley Mural Project (CAMP) was born out of an interest in improving a somewhat bleak environment. His friends Rigo, Aaron Noble, and Vince Oresman among a few others lived in a warehouse halfway up the block. “This was a place where you’d see people smoking crack under their T-shirts. Guys would get blow jobs here on their lunch breaks.” It’s not nearly so bad as that now, though an unpleasant smell lingers on warm days.

Julie Murray mural on Clarion Alley

The murals here reflect the influence of pop art, comic books, outsider art, and graffiti. Some of the art here is pointedly dismissive of the arts establishment, which is not that far from the spirit of the traditional muralists, who preferred the a populist approach. Critics sometimes categorize the Clarion painters, along with other local artists, as the Mission School. Sometimes their styles, which are diverse, are lumped into a catch-all description: “urban rustic.”

We stop before a mural by Brian Tripp, a Native American artist who, John says, represents just one of many cross-cultural connections established by the Clarion Alley painters. A lot of the work, such as Matso’s mural of ghosts emerging from the downtown skyline, are both political and cartoony.

John informs me one of the muralists, Julie Murray, sidelined as a movie set painter. It shows in her Clarion Alley mural, which depicts a lifelike escalator that appears to ascend from a garage door. Towards the Valencia end of the block, John points to a newer building that’s already covered with murals. “Barry McGee – Twist – painted something on a rolltop door on the building that was here before.” By that time, McGee was already among the city’s best known artists. “When he learned they were going to tear down the building, Aaron grinded the mural off the metal door with a crappy little electric grinder. It took him hours. He would rather destroy the painting than let some developer sell it.”

Scott Hove mural on Clarion Alley

Our next destination was going to be the Redstone Building, on 16th Street. John’s largest mural graces the building’s lobby, along with the works of many other Clarion Alley artists. But John’s girlfriend, a filmmaker, is screening a new documentary later in the evening and we’ve run out of time. He’s talked too much on Clarion Alley. We exchange a hasty goodbye.

Postscript

John’s tequila bottle rolled around on the floor of my car all the way home. At a Saturday night dinner function, I handed it off to my cousin Chris.

She met up with John’s girlfriend at the YMCA two nights later and, supposedly, handed her the bottle. But something went wrong in the exchange, and the bottle was never seen again. I strongly suspect these two women got home a little later than usual that night, their breath strong enough to kill flies.

-Tom Downs

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s San Francisco tours & things to do, from SF walking tours to Alcatraz tours. If you need a place to stay, check out San Francisco Hotels on Planetware.com.

Before I describe this wonderful tour, a word about the 2CV, or as it is more commonly known the deux chevaux. Driving around Paris in a “dedeuche” — as passers-by will call out when they see you — is an experience in itself. The French have a great love of this car, and you will notice the reverence with which it is treated by pedestrians, traffic policemen and certainly other drivers, who seem happy to always give way to this iconic French auto!

This gives your driver a little more license to act with bravado, as you issue instructions to stop immediately for a photo opportunity, or to give you a moment to pop into the Robert Clergerie store to check if they have your size in those impossibly gorgeous boots you spotted in the window a moment ago.

That example really sums up the difference between this very, very personal experience and the albeit lower-priced but nonetheless group experience of the Paris hop-on hop-off bus. Your driver, inevitably Pierre and naturally wearing a beret, picks you up at your hotel door. By the time you arrive at the car he is in conversation with your concierge, who is relating his own dedeuche-owning experience back in the ’70s, and marveling at how well this particular model has stood the test of time. Pierre will now quiz you about your special desires as he prepares to tailor a tour just for you. The best hot-chocolate in Paris? Vinyl stores that specialize in ’60s jazz? Hidden architectural treasures? Little-known museums and galleries? Or just a leisurely drive to get you acquainted with this city that he loves…

Paris 2CV Tour - My guide, sans beret

And his knowledge of Paris, it turns out, is immense. All the company’s drivers are young and quite suitably enthusiastic about their city. Their English is perfect and many speak Spanish and German, too. My Pierre described each of his personal Paris highlights in terms of his girlfriend: “This is where my girlfriend and I buy the best ice cream in Paris,” and “This is where my girlfriend and I like to eat our ice cream.”

Pierre’s girlfriend is indeed a lucky young woman, as each of these recommendations turned out to match their billing. And Pierre’s advice helped on the negative side too: “Oh, yes, this restaurant certainly has a good reputation, but they didn’t lower their prices as Michelin took away two of their stars!”

So whether you’re coming to Paris for the first time, or have been before but wish to get a little further under the surface than your guidebook will take you, I can’t recommend this tour enough. You’ll love the open-top 2CV, marvel at the stick-shift and how anyone could possibly determine the difference between first and fourth gear, and delight at your guide’s intense knowledge and very personal connection to Paris. A maximum of three passengers per vehicle, but the fleet is quite large so don’t hesitate to book a whole convoy if you have a group!

-Rod Cuthbert

Planning a trip to Paris? Browse Viator’s Paris tours and, d’accord, our private Paris tours including by 2CV Citroen.For German travelers, check out Viator’s Paris Sehenswürdigkeiten, Paris Touren, Paris Aktivitäten. For French travelers browse our Activités à Paris, visites à Paris, tours à Paris. For Spanish travelers: Paris tours, Paris actividades, que hacer y ver en Paris.