Digging myself a whole trench full of trouble. Everyone knows the Northern Lights are capricious at best, downright elusive the rest of the time.

But since childhood I’d wanted to see them. Lured by photographs, stories, the magical nature of them – it was on my list of life aims, and I’d already ticked off the Pyramids and climbing Everest (okay, one of these is a lie). So here I was in Iceland. This was my chance.

Iceland: Cold, crisp, cloudless

I’d been told about the three Cs: Cold, Crisp, Cloudless. There are the three essential climatic factors necessary for the aurora to do its thing. Gazing out the bus window at the end of a long day touring the Golden Circle (Pingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir), I realised it was certainly a cloudless night; I could see the mere sliver of a moon rising over the plains. Stepping off the bus at our last stop in the steamy thermal town of Hveragerdi, I realised it was also cold and crisp. Very, for both.

The magical green lights of the Aurora Borealis

Whipping out my phone I rang my resident friend in Reykjavik for advice. She’d also never seen the Aurora even though she’d lived there for a year. But whenever she mentioned it to Icelandic friends they shrugged, said: “Oh, you can see that anytime.”

How casual we are about what’s on our doorstep. But this wouldn’t be my doorstep much longer and I revved my friend up to sharing my belief that tonight was the night the skies would dance for us.

On your mark, get set, shine

Reaching the bus terminal in Reykjavik, I joined the queue to buy tickets for a Northern Lights Tour. As if six hours on a bus already that day had not been enough for me. Obviously I was not the only true believer in the three-C quality of that night – 70 people were booked for the tour! And that was only one company. Several other operators in town were herding fellow seekers onto buses at various times in the evening.

We’d debated just getting my friend’s car and heading out of town alone, away from the city lights. But again, that Icelandic shrug in the face of where we should go to optimise our chances of seeing the lights: “You see them everywhere. Or nowhere. North is good. Far north.”

Thanks, but not helpful.

We decided to increase the odds by joining the bus tour. Surely they’d know how to entice the magic out of the sky. My friend and I exchanged a look as the doors closed and our guide cheerfully announced we would be heading south!

Our spirits rose a moment later when he finished a phone call and announced that his friend in the south coast town on Vik had just reported that the northern lights were going crazy tonight. Seventy happy people cheered. Even if half of us wondered if he always started the tour with that announcement.

Next stop, Aurora Borealis

A cheerful local with anecdotes to keep us entertained on the dark and anxious road ahead, he told us that we were the same as whale-watchers: our job was to be constantly alert, yelling out if we saw anything flickering in the sky. Obediently we all stared out into the darkness, trying not to be blinded by passing headlights, or yell out at every passing aeroplane.

As we drove on, he told us stories of his days in the local rescue squad, having to assist people on the highway when sudden snowfalls vanquished inadequate cars. Suddenly I understood why everyone in Iceland drives such huge four wheel drives down such narrow city streets. Forgiven. Now if they could just learn to park the damn things…

Lulled by the hum of the bus, I gazed tiredly out the window, looking at the white light reflecting off the undersides of clouds. For a small city, Reykjavik certainly threw a lot of light pollution! Or not! The guide announced we had ‘activitiy’ in the sky and the driver looked for a side road to pull onto. We were like kids nearing a candyshop as we all pulled on coats and hats and jumped up and down in our seats. Finally, he found a suitable spot and we all piled out.

People ran up the embankment, trampling years old moss in their haste to raise their cameras and capture this phenomenon. I stared and nodded excitedly into the dark alongside my friend, but really, deep inside, my heart was breaking. Was this it? Because it really did look like light pollution. Where were the colours? The shimmery dancing movements?

As my spirits dropped, and camera flashes piercing the dark messed with my pupils, I stepped around the moss and climbed back onto the bus. Somewhere in my bag I had emergency Sirius brand chocolate, Iceland’s finest; right now I needed it.

George Clooney? Whatever

Finally everyone was herded back on board and we continued our journey south. I sucked on the chocolate and tried to make appropriately enthusiastic noises about what we’d seen. Perhaps this was what meeting George Clooney in person would be like. I made a mental note to scrap that off my list.

Another half an hour and more ‘activity’ was spotted. We rugged up, pulled over and piled out. My spirits lifted a little: there was a definite tinge of green. And was that pink over there? Sure, it still looked a little like thin cloud. The Milky Way with a bit of food dye splashed on. But it was pretty. And, if not for all those damn camera flashes going off, it would be a pretty nice moment. Kind of like a first kiss with a guy you used to think was a prince. Hmm, mental note to take kissing Clooney off my list.

By the time the ‘activity’ faded away, we were all so cold we were happy to get back on the bus. We headed into a small town – who knows its name but there were boats, fish factories, and corrugated iron houses: I challenge you to tell that apart from the next Icelandic town in the dark! Here we had a quick chocolate buying frenzy and toilet break. The girls behind the counter looked none too happy to see 20 women line up for the bathroom – apparently there was a barn dance in town that night and they were keen to be strutting their stuff.

Finally one brave soul broke ranks and headed into the deserted Men’s. A few others followed, one woman exiting as if she’d just experienced the most exciting taboo shattering of her life. A memorable tour for her definitely.

Our guide announced that he was not sure we would see much more that evening so we were going to head back to town. We’d been on the hunt for over two hours already and everyone was cold and tired so there were no complaints. Although I have to say I remained a bit saddened by the lack of spectacle. Was this really the Northern Lights?

Then my friend, the semi-local, confessed she’s been chatting to the guide, practising her Icelandic, while the rest of us craned our necks at the sky. He’d told her that there is a scale of 0 to 5 for the Aurora with 0 being the lowest strength; unfortunately tonight was a 0. But I was actually heartened by the news: it did get better than this! I just knew it had to! Yippee.

And better it got.

The aurora of my dreams

As we were nearing Reykjavik, there was a shout and the bus stopped. Obediently we bundled into coats and hats and scarves and gloves, and left our warm, comfy seats. And wow! The sky was on fire! This was the Aurora as I had hoped. And it was still probably only a 2.

Huge swathes of colour swirled in the sky, greeny, pinky. Always shifting and changing. Then a band of light would suddenly dance across the sky, shimmering and flickering, moving swiftly past before disappearing. We distinctly saw a face form in one corner and gasped. As quickly it was gone but I nearly became a Believer on the spot. Perhaps it was five minutes, perhaps half an hour, then the magic was over. My neck was sore and I didn’t care.

I’d seen the Aurora and I was a very happy woman.

Heading back to the city, I discovered the reason others had persisted with their camera flashes when I’d got nothing. (Yes, I admit, I started the night trying to photograph it too, before I realised it was futile and I just enjoyed the moment instead.) The secret is long shutter speed, and apparently shining a light beam into the camera lens. Don’t ask me for whys and hows; I’m just telling you what I heard.

But with or without camera, go to Iceland. Go Aurora hunting. There’s no guarantee you’ll see it, this being one of nature’s most fragile tricks. But if you do… Wowza!

-Phillipa Burne

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Iceland tours & things to do in Iceland, including the Golden Circle Tour and an Aurora Borealis night tour from Reykjavik.

The 2010 Passion Play in Oberammergau, Germany, is a once-a-decade event that takes over, consumes, and essentially overwhelms the entire town of Oberammergau. Once every 10 years, more than half of this Bavarian village’s 5,000 inhabitants take part as actors in the world-famous Oberammergau Passion Play.

Stage of the Oberammergau Passion Play

The local residents join together with director Christian Stückl (manager of Munich’s renowned Volkstheater), stage designer Stefan Hageneier, and music directors Markus Zwink and Michael Bocklet to stage this solemn and meticulous play depicting the suffering and death of Jesus the Nazarene. The plot has not changed in structure since the first performance in 1634; it begins with Christ’s entry into Jerusalem on a donkey, and winds up with a dramatic Crucifixion scene.

Scene from the Oberammergau Passion Play

This highly emotional play is expected to be watched by more than 500,000 people between May and October 2010, over a series of 102 performances. This is the 41st performance of the Oberammergau Passion Play itself - it’s always performed once a decade, and has been since 1634.

Why Oberammergau, you may ask?

The answer can be traced back to one of several outbreaks of the bubonic plague that struck Europe in medieval times. When faced with the horror of the disease in 1633, the villagers of Oberammergau vowed to perform a Passion Play both the next year and every 10 years thereafter, should they be spared from the disease.

Houses in Oberammergau

In 1634 they kept their promise and the Oberammergau Passion Play was born. Only twice (due to political reasons in 1770 and the World War II in 1940) has the Passion Play not taken place. Nowadays it is a permanent feature, held the last year in each decade here in Oberammergau.

How is the play organized?

As you would expect from an event organized in Germany, no detail is left to chance in the planning of the Passion Play! The cast, who must be born in Oberammergau or have resided here for at least 20 years, are chosen a full year in advance of the first play. Why? Mainly because the men must grow out their hair and facial hair to effectively depict their characters.

Where can I find tickets to the Oberammergau Passion Play?

Ah, we thought you’d never ask!

It is very, very difficult to book tickets. The Passion Play ticket policy requires that all tickets for non-German residents are reserved by tour operators and sold as part of tour packages. That’s where we can help. We at Viator have searched hard to source the best-value package and are delighted to present our 3-Day Oberammergau Passion Play tour from Munich.

The tour - which includes train travel from Munich, a choice of two accommodation options and two “category two” tickets for the Passion Play - is ideal for people who want to see the Passion Play without being restricted to a specific tour itinerary. In other words, it’s perfect if you are holidaying in central Europe next summer and are desperate to witness this unique event, but want a degree of flexibility and independence on the way.

Be warned: all tickets must be returned to the Passion Play office a full 3 months prior to every performance date, so book now to guarantee your seat at Oberammergau 2010!

-Viator Travel Team

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Munich tours & things to do in Munich, including multi-day tours from Munich.

San Calisto catacomb in Rome

We are introduced to our guide – Angelo. It turns out we are all early and so head off ahead of schedule – first stop is a comfortable tour bus. The title of the tour is Crypts and Catacombs and so aptly our first destination is the catacombs of Saint Calisto – one small part of a huge network of catacombs in Rome.

Rome’s catacombs: A little history

As we work our way across the tapestry that is ancient and modern Rome, Angelo fills us in on the background of the catacombs and the reason for their existence. The Catacombs are basically underground burial chambers dug outside the walls of Rome by the early Christians. They are something of an enigma as they were created at a time when Christianity was illegal in the Roman Empire and yet this huge network spanning almost 150 miles in total was allowed to flourish.

In the capable hands of our guide

Angelo informs us that for the early Christians it was vital to be buried whole due to a very literal belief in the resurrection. Contemporary Romans were, in contrast, being cremated in what was seen as a far more hygienic method of disposal (for them, the Day of Judgment was of little importance and the idea of having intact bodies being buried inside the walls of Rome anathema).

Once outside the ancient walls we wind our way down the Appia Antica – one of Rome’s most ancient of roads. The city has given way to fields and Roman ruins and a large flock of sheep munch at the grass. Soon we arrive at the Catacombs of Saint Calisto and with a long bamboo stick to hand Angelo gives us a brief rundown of how they were built and how the earth called Tufa is perfect for the job (soft to dig but hardens nicely once left in contact with the air).

Descending into the catacombs of Rome

The time to head underground arrives (unfortunately photography is not allowed, in respect to the dead and buried Christians). As we descend the air becomes dank and clammy and it’s a little chilly. Immediately we enter high corridors cut into the earth with banks of little tombs cut into the sides of varying sizes. Angelo guides us to various points of interest which include high ventilation shafts, a papal room which unfortunately had clearly been ransacked before restoration but which nonetheless was the burial site of some very early Popes.

Into the catacombs!

We continue down more labyrinthine alleys full of tombs to rooms containing simple and strangely innocent frescoes where families would have been buried. The atmosphere is strange and not very comfortable. There is a sense of the place being emptied and indeed Angelo had mentioned that the Barbarians and had a bit of a rummage no doubt hoping to find some precious possessions but they would have been disappointed as the Christians were buried without precious goods and then later bone collectors would have dug out these early Christians selling the bones as holy relics.

The place is a little spooky probably not helped by the fact that it is Halloween and I am relieved when we head back up into the October sunshine.

Basilica of St Clement

We head back into Rome and, not far from the Colosseum, we enter the Basilica of St Clement who Angelo has informed us on the way in, used to preach in the second century and so incensed the Romans that they sent him to the Black Sea salt mines where his ardour still persisted and at the point where he started converting soldiers they tied him to an anchor and threw him in the sea – St Cyril (creator of the Cyrillic alphabet) was said to have gathered his remains and brought him back to Rome. On entering the Basilica one is struck by the stunning beauty of the mosaic work in the apse but the tour is about crypts so we first head underground to the amazing discovery the Irish Friar Joseph Mullooly made when hearing water rushing underneath the church.

In trying to find the source of the water Mullooly succeeded in uncovering first the foundations of the early church which are interesting but pale in significance to the lower layer which reveal the site of an ancient Mithraic temple site complete with a stunning piece of sculpted marble showing Mythras slaying a bull whose blood has unfortunately been corrupted by the bite of a snake – the idea of evil entering the world.

Outside the Basilica St Clement

Angelo describes the remarkable similarities between the Mithraic cult (which was highly popular) and that of Christianity which include the seven deadly sins and the importance of the ritual of bread and wine. We enter more ancient Roman rooms and find the source of the rushing water - an ancient underwater system still alive and well. St Clement really has a magic to it that I felt needed more time to savour, particularly the Basilica itself but we head off onto the bus for the Capuchin crypt.

Jaw bones and shoulder blades at the Capuchin Crypt

This last Crypt is real live horror. We are bullied into giving a one euro donation by the woman at the door and told in no uncertain terms no photographs whatsoever are allowed. The spectacle that greets us is one of macabre sculptures made out of the bones of Capuchin monks with the stark message repeated in various forms of symbolism that our time on earth is limited and we should all look to the salvation of our souls as soon as possible. Hour glasses are sculpted out of shoulder blades and as I look above me a line of jaw bones dance one after the other across the ceiling. Skulls are piled on high like something out of a Pol Pot massacre. It’s grim with mummified monks in their habits holding court but so artfully done that it fascinates.

Once more it’s pleasant to return to the fresh air of the Via Veneto and to be told one last tasty morsel of information – that it was on the Via Veneto that the inventor of the cappuccino whilst struggling to find a name noticed the distinctive brown habit of a Capuchin monk and eureka … the cappuccino was born.

The tour is just the right length and leaves the most startling spectacle till last which helps as ones concentration starts to flag. St Clements is a very special church and warrants more time upstairs but the trip out to the Appia Antica catacombs really makes you feel that you have done a genuine bit of travelling. Overall one gets a real sense of early Christian history and its preoccupation with death.

-Laurence Belgrave

Planning a trip? Brose Viator’s Rome tours & things to do in Rome, including Rome walking tours & biking tours such as the Rome catacombs tour and the catacombs and Rome countryside walkig tour.

First let me explain my reason for a budget-friendly jaunt in Spain. For while I have back-packed and couch-surfed with the best of them in days gone by, these days I prefer my travel inclusive of a few of life’s little luxuries like decent restaurants and beds without bedbugs. A recent visit to Madrid, however, came with a hefty price tag before we’d even touched down, courtesy of tickets to a Leonard Cohen concert and pre-booked lodgings in the monument to modern design that is the Hotel Peurta de America, our two reasons for visiting the Spanish capital.

Madrid on a budget? Yes, it is still possible. Maggie has suggestions for you.

We knew we had to look for ways to cut costs in other areas. With a little bit of forward planning and some bumbled Spanish phrase work, we were able to limit our supplementary spending considerably and still see some of the best Madrid has to offer.

Making the most of your euros in Madrid

Madrid is no rambler’s paradise. It lacks Barcelona’s labyrinthine alleyways filled with smoke-stained tapas bars and quirky boutique. London, with its green spaces and Victorian buildings, is lovely to stroll through, In cities like Paris, you can happily wander for hours, rarely opening your wallet, and still feel like you have glimpsed the city’s soul. Like sharing a smile with a complete stranger across a crowded room.

Madrid, however, especially on a hot day, can be dirty, noisy, and unappealing if you don’t know where to go. More like a bad date at an amusement park. As in any big metropolis, bland pedestrian malls littered with retail chains and big name labels are fairly easy to find. In the case of Madrid, this is Gran Via for the High Street stuff and the glamorous Salamanca district (in particular Calle de Goya) for the more luxurious offerings.

Given our meagre budget, however, we weren’t keen to join the ranks of boggle eyed window shoppers. We wanted to experience a bit of the Real Madrid (pun intended). So we hopped on the train.

Eating & sleeping (not always on the cheap)

Madrid’s Metro system is vast, easy to navigate, and cheap. For 1 euro you can traverse the city, and 7.40 euros will get you 10 tickets – enough for a long weekend’s worth of travel. Clear signage displaying a simple system of colours and numbers means you can work it out as you go along. We didn’t encounter a single station without an escalator or lift, meaning that even travel with heavy suitcases was manageable. Very useful for us given that we arrived on a Friday evening just as Madrid’s streets were clogging up with taxis ferrying clubbers to lofty podiums and strobing subterranes. The Metro was a much cheaper way to get to our hotel and I suspect even marginally quicker than a cab.

Our first night in the Peurta de America - in the immaculate chamber that was the White Zaha Hadid Club Suite - revived us sufficiently to hit the streets early the next day. First thing on the agenda was the sourcing of olives and cheese, two provisions we have reluctantly discontinued since relocating to Iceland, where import duties leave a very bitter taste in one’s mouth. It’s far better, we have conceded, to enjoy proper deli goods in situ as part of the overseas experience.

Our suite at the Zaha Hadid

The sidewalk was verily slick with our own salivation from thoughts of tapas bars festooned with olives and walled with blocks of cheese. We assumed we were in for a merry old time of it. Not so. In fact, all we managed to unearth in the streets surrounding our hotel was grimy sports bars and endless offerings of potato tortilla. And then we stumbled on a supermarket, a veritable Mecca for impoverished travellers everywhere.

This particular store was filled with excitingly unfamiliar groceries (my preferred litmus test for local culture), an abundance of fresh fruit and vegies, an impressive seafood section (the crustaceans were actually moving!), and a deli section staffed by a squadron of staff dishing up olives, cheese and meats of all kinds. Ay caramba!

Stocking up on supermarket goodies, including fresh rye bread and a thrillingly inexpensive bottle of plonk, we savoured a hotel picnic back in our alabaster abode before hopping the Metro to the Chueca district – the barrio de homosexual and reportedly the place to go for good shopping, dahhling.

In & around Calle Fuencarral

Disembarking the Metro at Sol station, we unwittingly fell into the slipstream of pedestrians flowing down the pedestrian mall, making a few accidental breakthroughs in the field of deli-foraging. Contentment, thine name is Manchego cheese. Wandering with, and then against, the crowd, we discovered the usual offering of chain stores, and a couple of exceptional retail oddities, such as the fan shop and ballet store stocked full of pointe shoes and tarantella skirts, transporting me straight back to my childhood.

But the Chueca beckoned, so we made our way towards the smaller streets of Calle Fuencarral and Calle Augusto Figueroa. That’s when things started to get interesting. The way was peppered with flamboyantly gay couples and lycra-clad prostitutes. The shops were filled with cheap shoes. Mountains of them. There were boutiques of various kinds too – fashion stores, health shops, sunglasses and accessories vendors – but if you are after an affordable retail thrill in Madrid, I suggest you start with footwear. And we would have done just that, if not for the ticking clock. We had a date with Leonard.

Madrid's Museo de Reina Sofia

It’s irrelevant in a blog about frugal travel experiences, I know, but just in case you’re interested, the Leonard Cohen concert experience was sublime. After five self-effacing encores, prompted by twice as many ovations, he left me with the feeling that I had just witnessed the last of the great entertainers. Prolific, intelligent, humble, he let his songs do the talking rather than merely being the humanoid accompaniment to an expensive pyrotechnics showcase. The man and his songs are all you need. No public relations or media gimmicks required. And it’s my other half who is the diehard fan; I was essentially a tag-along.

Post-concert experience, we spent our second night in the Hadid suite sopping up the remains of the olives and wine and soaking in the cavernous bath. The height of luxury and a perfect way to recharge for another day of penny-pinching.

Madrid’s museum trail

Some forward-thinking internet research had revealed that if we visited the Museo de Reina Sofia after 2.30pm on a Saturday or from 10am-2.30pm on a Sunday, we would pay precisely nada for entry. Given that the Reina Sofia houses a staggering collection of Picassos (including Guernica, back in Spain after two years in New York), countless Dalis, Calders, Miros and other Spanish masters, this was an opportunity too good to pass up. And so we took the metro to Atocha Renfe and joined the Sunday morning crowds. This museum is big and its collection worth taking the time to appreciate. The gnashing teeth and protuberant tongues of the Picassos are offset by the uncomplicated joy of the Miros and the calm balance of the Calders. Green spaces located in the inner courtyards provide opportunity for reflection and escape from the deluge of art inside.

Next on the list was the Museo Nacional de Prado. Entrance in free on Sunday from 5-8pm. In reference to the size of the gallery’s permanent collection, three different visitor routes are suggested. We selected the one-hour route, which highlighted masterpieces by El Greco, Fra Angelica, Rubens and Rembrandt. Not bad for a free afternoon.

If ambling is your cup of sangria, stay within the streets of the historic centre and pay a visit to the Plaza Mayor and the Palacio Real de Madrid, both excellent places to capture the architectural glory of Spain. If markets are more your thing then the Sunday Rastro market, a flea market between Plaza Mayor La Latina and Puerta de Toledo that sells everything under the Spanish sun, might be a better way to spend your remaining Euros. Regrettably we had a train to catch and so had to give it a miss.

Next time.

A word of warning about Madrid: unlike its northern sister Barcelona, English speakers are apparently thin on the ground. If it’s a bargain you’re after, or some local knowledge, it’s well worth taking the time to brush up on your Espanol.

But a bustling metropolis it is not. It’s the kind of town you get to know in a day. And on the second day, you meet everyone who lives there. Everyone. So unless you intend to travel outside of Reykjavik and commune with nature, there’s not much point in being in the Icelandic capital for more than a long weekend. There are only so many times one can ambulate downtown’s main street, Laugavegur, before it starts getting really old. And nobody likes vinarbrauð (Iceland’s version of a Danish, filled with marzipan and icing instead of fruit) and coffee that much.

Pylsur - the national food of Iceland. Yes, it's a hot dog.

Nevertheless, Reykjavík’s viking-meets-water-nymph eccentricity is utterly charming and if you’re aware of her greatest hits before you get there, three or four days will fly by. Try not to expect too much from Reykjavik, and she will treat you to a fine long weekend indeed.

Reykjavik on foot

First up, you need to orient yourself as Reykjavik is a town that can easily be seen on foot. Use Hallgrímskirkja (the towering Lutheran church at the top of Skólavörðustígur) as a starting point. Venture up the tower for an impressive bird’s-eye view (400ISK for adults, 100ISK for children 7-14) then walk down Skólavörðustígur to sample some of the local arts and craft shops and cafes (Mokka and Babalú are great pit-stop points).

At the bottom of the hill, Laugavegur to the right and Bankastræti to the left provide a paradise of clothes boutiques and eateries worth exploring. The day doesn’t start in Iceland before coffee has been consumed. The locals take their java juice seriously (almost as seriously as their coffee breaks which are frequent and protracted). Hjólmalind, resident hippie café, makes a sensational soy chai latte. Tíu Dropar’s cakes and coffee are a welcome treat after navigating Laugavegur’s foot traffic and the grandma’s parlour atmosphere attracts hipsters and older locals alike.

My parents went to Iceland and all I got was this lousy…

For unique Icelandic shopping, pick up something made from Icelandic wool, pop into Naked Ape (the nu-rave outfitters of the north), Rokk og Rósir (flawless vintage), or Aftur, for an utterly Icelandic look.

From there, you can either head downhill towards City Hall and Tjörnin (The Pond) and its surrounding gardens, or steer yourself seawards for a stroll along the shore. The Sun Craft sculpture, separated from Mount Esja by a choppy bay, makes a wonderful photograph; the rusting shipping vessels propped up getting fresh coats of paint are endlessly fascinating.

The Sun Craft sculpture

From here, you can venture down to the Maritime Museum in the old harbour, dubbed the Fishpacking District due to the new artist and recording studios and offbeat boutiques springing up there (vintage refurbished bicycles at Kria, and unique clothing, accessories and giftware with a macabre twist at Vopnabúrið).

Reykjavik bars & clubs

Don’t assume that after a day of walking the only way of unwinding is in a hot tub. The nightlife is well worth rugging up for. Since the 2007 closure of legendary bar Sirkus (famed for its rafter-hanging, all-night, celebrity-packed antics) other favourites Boston, Kaffibarrinn and Karumba have stepped up to fill the void.

Friday and Saturday nights are wild affairs downtown… one good reason to choose a hotel slightly off the beaten track if partying isn’t your thing. Gutsy local English-language newspaper The Grapevine elucidates on the issues of the day as well as listing special events and gigs worth attending. If you are lucky enough to be in town when Sigur Rós, Múm, FM Belfast, Reykjavík!, or Gus Gus are on the bill, take my word for it and go along.

Please don’t stare at Björk

While on the subject of homegrown talent, given Reykjavik’s diminutive size, there’s a good chance that a night out will see you lining up for a Brennivín or a Víking beer alongside local or even international celebrities. If you feel the urge to whip out your camera and start snapping, please resist. Most bars operate a “no photography” policy so that the privacy of their patrons is respected.

Street art in Reykjavik

My first “Björk encounter” (everybody here’s had one) was puzzling. I assumed the woman everyone was studiously ignoring was an enthusiastic lookalike rather than the genuine article. Despite being clad head to toe in white lace, she wasn’t getting a single wayward glance. Upon mumbled inquiry, I discovered it was indeed the Swan Dress Lady in all her doilied glory.

That’s just the way Icelanders treat native talent. They treat them as they would a fishmonger. Or the Prime Minister. As equals. The experience was repeated when I found myself soaking in a hot tub opposite Magnús Scheving (AKA Sportacus from LazyTown… those of you with kids will know who I’m talking about). We swapped smiles, pleasantries, and then got back to soaking.

While we’re on the subject, Iceland’s water culture definitely rates a mention and no Icelandic adventure is complete without it. The options are numerous – local pool and spa complexes, tourist haven the Blue Lagoon, or some of the naturally occurring hot springs further afield. Check out my blog on Getting Soaked in Iceland for more information.

What to eat in Reykjavik? Fish of course. And hot dogs

There’s no escaping the fact that Reykjavík is a fishing town. Unsurprisingly, the seafood here is fresh, affordable and delicious. Visit Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) on the dock where whale watching boats and whaling vessels moor, incongruously, side by side. It’s not the cheapest fish in town, particularly given that it’s served on Styrofoam plates, but their lobster soup is touted by gourmands of repute as the world’s best. (I can’t comment due to a shellfish allergy, but all the visitors I’ve taken there have raved.)

OSushi (upstairs at Iða bookstore on Lækjargata) offers sushi-train japery. If you’re feeling adventurous, let the fish roll by and instead hop on board with whale sashimi or (brace yourselves…) foal sushi.

The menu at local favourite þrir Frakkar incudes smoked puffin, whale, reindeer, plokkfiskur and many other traditional Icelandic dishes.

If, however, your budget leans more towards paper napkins than linen tablecloths, head straight for Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur across the road from the Kolaportið carpark to sample the Icelandic national food… hot dogs. Even hole in the wall vendors offer a good product but the pylsurs here set the standard. Bill Clinton ate here during his visit in 2004 (just mustard, hold the onions and ketchup). Shame. Those crunchy fried-onions and sweet relish are what make the Icelandic pylsur truly great.

Art & culture in Reykjavik

Open from 11am-5pm every Saturday and Sunday, Kolaportið Flea Market is another worthwhile destination. It is a genuine trash and treasure affair, particularly since last year’s financial crash when Icelanders realised they should be focussing on frugality rather than futures funds.

Just a few blocks away on Tryggvagata you will find Listasafn, Reykjavik’s Art Museum. Despite its grand semblance, it presents an easily absorb-able number of works – large scale paintings, photography and installations – making it viewable in under an hour. Entry is free; save your kronur for the upstairs café serving good coffee and a selection of soups and sandwiches, all coming with a complimentary side order of sea view.

If Iceland’s Viking past interests you, the National Museum of Iceland has a comprehensive collection of artefacts and historical information – presented in Icelandic and English.

Day trips from Reykjavik

There are a handful of good day trips from Reykjavik. The Golden Circle tour of south-eastern Iceland is imperative. Either hire a car or join one of the many Golden Circle tours on offer. The Golden Circle tour is an excellent way to sample Iceland’s natural beauty in a day: Þingvellir National Park, the site where the European and American tectonic plates meet, Gulfoss waterfall, and Geysir (which faithfully shoots a jet of steaming water skywards every four minutes).

Some of Reykjavik’s closer attractions - such as Perlan, the site of the city’s hot water storage and a fancy revolving restaurant; the geothermally heated beach Nautholsvik; and the hot tubs at Seltjanarnes - are all reachable by bus. Tickets, routes and timetable information can be found online or in person at the central bus stop Hlemmur.

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Iceland sightseeing & things to do in Iceland suggestions, including Iceland day tours and things to do in Reykjavik. Also check out Kelly’s previous blog about Iceland.

We could have gone for more, but here are five of the best Madrid day trip options in central Spain.

Madrid day trip: Córdoba

Inside the Mezquita, in Cordoba

High-speed rail has opened up amazing possibilities in Spain – especially for those who want to see a lot but have limited time. Seville is often cited as a major beneficiary – the high speed train journey takes two-and-a-half hours, meaning it’s possible to do a day trip there from Madrid (click here for Madrid Toledo tours on Viator.)

But don’t overlook Córdoba. It’s closer (around one hour and 45 minutes on the train), and there’s a reason that it often crops up on Best Destination lists when readers vote in travel magazine polls.

Córdoba is packed with history – it was once the seat of an all powerful Islamic caliphate, and was regarded as the most advanced, enlightened city in Europe.

In the 10th century it was arguably the biggest city in the world, with an estimated 500,000 inhabitants. Architecture spans the ages – from Roman times to when there was a thriving Jewish population. The Jewish quarter is hugely atmospheric, and it leads to what is undoubtedly Córdoba’s star attraction.

The Mezquita is a cathedral that was once a mosque – and it’s a must-see, even for people who hate touring around cathedrals. Inside is an eye-popping series of red and yellow archways. There are hundreds of them, and it has a mesmerising effect as you wander through. (Note Viator has a highly rated 4-day tour of Spain from Madrid that includes Cordoba.)

Madrid day trip: Segovia

Segovia is another city that has benefited from the high speed connection to Madrid – it’s now just over half an hour away from the Spanish capital. It’s a spectacularly located city, sitting above the parched, dusty plains, and it’s loveable from the moment you first set eyes on the aqueduct.

The Roman-built aqueduct is Segovia’s most iconic image, and an astounding feat of engineering. It’s made entirely without cement or concrete, and consists of a series of narrow, spindly archways towering over the rooftops.

Segovia, from the top of the Alcazar

The second major attraction is the Alcazar, which can be found at the other end. The tale goes that this was the building on which the castle for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty was based. It certainly has fairytale looks, and the views from the top of the tower are awesome.

But it’s just as impressive inside – the rooms are lavishly decorated, and the one that is ringed by busts of Spain’s kings and queens is particularly intriguing.

For foodies, however, the Alcazar and aqueduct will be of secondary importance. Segovia is renowned for its suckling pig and lamb. Vegetarians will not be too impressed, but the more carnivorously inclined should brace themselves for huge plates of some of the most tender meat they will ever encounter.
It’s a good job that it’s a fair walk from the aqueduct to the Alcazar – it’s possible to walk off some of that extra bulk on the way. (Note: Viator has a popular day trip from Madrid to Segovia and Avila.)

Madrid day trip: Alcalá de Henares

Part of Madrid’s surrounding area (or Comunidad), Alcalá is essentially a suburb of the Spanish capital. It’s an instantly likeable place of cobbled, winding streets and large public squares. In terms of architecture, its grand cathedral and university buildings are enough to draw in the punters who aren’t there for literary reasons.

Segovia's famous aqueduct

For the book lovers, however, the major reason to visit Alcalá de Henares is that it is the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes. The famous Spanish author is often regarded as the second greatest of all time after William Shakespeare, and his classic Don Quixote is regularly cited as the best book ever written.
Those wanting to find out more about Alcalá’s most famous son can visit the Cervantes birthplace museum but a better bet is to turn up in April.

Cervantes died on April 23rd, 1616 - coincidentally the same date Shakespeare died - and this has been declared UNESCO World Book Day. In Alcala, it becomes a major event, coinciding with the awarding of the Cervantes Prize. This is given out by the King of Spain to the author of the best book in the Spanish language from the preceding year. It’s all highly prestigious, and the satellite town takes on a whole different air.

Madrid day trip: El Escorial

Approximately 45km to the north-west of central Madrid, El Escorial is arguably Spain’s most impressive royal site. It’s in the Sierra de Guadarrama, the mountain range that forms the natural boundary for the community of Madrid. The range is excellent for walking in (and even skiing in winter) but El Escorial is the high point for most.

It’s split into two parts – a huge monastery and a royal hunting lodge – although it’s the monastery that most associate with the name. Inside are some fabulous artworks, including the Hall of Battles where frescos commemorate memorable Spanish military victories.

Statue at El Escorial monastery

The most important part, however, is the Pantheon of the Kings. This is where all Spanish kings and queens are buried, and it looks suitably grand. The marble walls are adorned with gold-plated bronze. The monks – an Augustinian order – still live at El Escorial and help to maintain it. (Check Viator’s tours from Madrid to El Escorial for more day trip options.)

Madrid day trip: Toledo

Madrid may be the current Spanish capital, but Toledo used to be. And for heritage junkies, Toledo makes a perfect day trip from Madrid. It has strong Jewish, Muslim and Christian heritage, with the synagogues, mosques and churches being amongst the more obvious sights. The cathedral, in particular, is a highlight. It’s an enormous Gothic structure, and lavishly decorated inside.

The Alcazar (or fortress) is the other big set piece. It has been, in turn, a royal palace and an infantry training academy. It’s now home to the army museum.

For art fans, the place to go to is the Museo El Greco. Although born in Crete, El Greco is widely considered to be the finest Spanish artist of all time, and the museum plays host to much of his work.
The most endearing thing about Toledo (providing you don’t arrive on a day when it’s crammed with tourists), however, is simply ambling along the narrow, winding streets. The city is a little maze-like, but tremendously atmospheric.

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Madrid tours & things to do in Madrid and Madrid day trips.

The Gasometer

Another stop along the Ruhr’s industrial heritage trail is this enormous gas cylinder in Oberhausen. It has been converted into one of the most bizarre – and striking – exhibition spaces you are ever likely to see. The current exhibition – lasting until at least March 2010 – is about the solar system. Inside, there are retrieved satellites, displays on the history of astronomy and some amazing space photography blown up in gigantic proportions.

Gasometer in Oberhausen

The highlights, however, are the ‘sun’ in the middle of the ground floor exhibition area and ‘The Largest Moon on Earth’. The latter is a sculpture dangling from the top of the Gasometer and has a diameter of 25m. It’s also possible to get a lift up to viewing platforms at the very top of the 117m-tall Gasometer. From there, the views over the whole region are rather spectacular – if rather heavy on the old smoking chimneys.

Wunderland Kalkar

Wunderland Kalkar in North Rhine-Westphalia was originally designed to be Schneller Brüter, a multi-national nuclear power station shared between Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands. For a variety of reasons, however, it was never turned on.

So what do you do with a big, useless nuclear power plant? Turn it into a theme park, of course.
Looking out over the Rhine river, the rollercoasters, big wheels, hotel and conference centre are given a somewhat surreal look by the giant, brightly-painted cooling tower. And for those slightly worried about the park’s history, never fear, its owners guarantee it’s “radiation free”.

Hitler walking tours

It may sound a little tasteless on the surface, but the Third Reich walking tours are one of the most fascinating ways to discover Munich and its dark Nazi-era history. The Nazi party was formed here, and it was where Adolf Hitler rose to prominence. The tours, led by keen historians, take in the Hofbrauhaus – where Hitler held his first major political rally. Also included are the spot where his attempted beer hall putsch was halted and the sites of former Nazi headquarters.

Strangely, it’s the more insignificant bits - such as the photographer’s studio where Hitler met Eva Braun and the buildings he painted as a struggling artist – that really stick in the memory. (From Munich Viator also offers a tour to the Dachau Concentration Camp; if you’re in Berlin, the Third Reich walking tour covers similar chapters in Nazi history.)

Colditz Escape Museum

Continuing the Second World War theme, Colditz Castle in Saxony is arguably the most famous prisoner of war camp in history. Part of it has now been turned into an ultra-modern youth hostel, but the rest is a museum devoted to the numerous escape bids that Allied POWs attempted. The museum goes into the defences that led to the camp being dubbed ‘unescapable’ – think lots of barbed wire, men with guns and snarling dogs.

But most entertaining are the ingenious methods that the captured officers used in an attempt to get out. Unusually, all were photographed by the Nazis in a bid to train guards about what to look out for – and these photos make up the bulk of the museum.

There are pics of would-be-escapees dressed as women, electricians and German guards. There are also dummies that were used to stand in at roll call, while it’s possible to walk through a tunnel that a group of French POWs painstakingly dug.

Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord

The Ruhr region is particularly notable for converting old industrial plants into something a bit odd, and the Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord, in Duisburg, is a classic example. A former ironworks has been transformed into a rather odd-looking public park, where the buildings have been converted into bistros, concert halls, bars and an information centre.

View from halfway up the blast furnace at Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord

It’s also possible to clamber up to the top of the blast furnace, go free-climbing up the walls of the ore bunkers and have diving lessons in a giant gas cylinder. There’s also a large play area for kids and a series of cycling tracks where the train lines used to run.

The German Occupational Health and Safety Exhibition

Despite sounding like a shoo-in for the title of ‘most boring museum in the known universe’, this enormous maze of workplace wonders is surprisingly engrossing. It’s located in Dortmund, and is utterly bewildering. There’s way more to it than displays on how to lift up boxes properly.

Amongst the many, many things on offer are playful robotic arms, interactive games that mess with your visual perception, aircraft cockpits to sit in and mock-ups of a power station’s control room.

All manner of machinery is on display, from weaving looms and printing presses to helicopters used to repair power lines. There are lots of buttons to press, computers to play with and enormous contraptions to control. All information is in German, so you might not understand what’s going on most of the time if you don’t speak the language, but the sheer scale and ambition of the exhibition make it worth visiting.

Salt mine tour

Having been operational for nearly 500 years, Berchtesgaden’s salt mine is now a tourist attraction. And one that packs in as many forms of novelty transport as it can possibly manage. Visitors dress up in miner’s clothing, whizz down miner’s slides and get into the mine on a miniature train. Once inside, there are chapels made of salt, exhibitions on the mining process and impressive light shows to contend with.

Speeding through the Berchtesgaden salt mine on a miniature train

The trip continues with a raft trip on an eerie underground lake and a funicular railway back up to the top. It’s like a series of theme park rides, an art gallery and an industrial heritage centre all rolled into one. (You can book a joint tour to Berchtesgaden and Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest fortress on Viator.)

Propeller Island hotel

If, after completing your bizarre tour of Germany, you’re looking for somewhere suitably weird to stay, then it’s hard to look past Berlin’s Propeller Island. The brainchild of musician and artist Lars Stroschen, the rooms at Propeller Island are all wildly individual. At best they’re mind-blowingly weird; at worst they’re completely impractical.

One of the most notorious rooms is the upside down room, which has everything – the bed, the chests of drawers, the works, suspended from the ceiling. The real bed can be found hidden in the floor, incidentally. Others include The Mirror Room, which as the name would suggest is entirely surrounded by mirrors. The kaleidoscope effect is nicely complimented by silvery bedsheets…

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Germany tours, things to do in Berlin, Munich tours, and more.

Copenhagen offers up several for public viewing – Amalienborg, Rosenborg, and Christiansborg being the three biggies. For those able to venture a little further afield, there is a host of castles and palaces to see, including the impressive Kronborg Castle, immortalized as “Elsinore” in Shakespeare’s Hamlet.

Fredensborg Palace

For over 1000 years the Houses of Oldenborg and Glücksborg have reigned over their Danish subjects, the present day royalty being direct descendants of the latter clan. Living in the manner of Kings and Queens (not surprisingly), they preside from the comfort of a royal flush of palatial residences, making their selection depending on the season or their regal fancy. Some palaces were built for purposes other than actual occupation, such as the Hermitage Palace, which is dedicated mainly to feasts after royal hunts. And some of them, such as Schackenborg, where Prince Joachim and Princess Alexandra reside, are not open to the public at all. But the majority of royal properties at least offer sections for public viewing, most of which have sensational gardens attached that can be visited year-round.

Amaliensborg Palace

Amalienborg

The current winter residence of HM The Queen and HRH The Prince Consort is Amalienborg, located conveniently within a stone’s throw of the bustling tourist district of Nyhavn. Consisting of four palaces centred around an open courtyard, this stunning monument to Rococo design has been the royal winter residence since 1794. An enduringly popular tourist pastime is to bear witness to the changing of the guard, which takes place daily at midday.

Two of Amalienborg’s four palaces are open to the public, Christian VIII’s Palace and Christian VII’s Palace. The former offers a museum of the Glücksburg dynasty, while the latter, used by the Queen to receive foreign heads of state, offers occasional guided tours and special exhibitions. Amaliehaven, the stunning sculpted garden adjoined to the residence, is always open.

Kastellet

A nearby green space well worth a visit, is Kastellet, one of the best preserved fortifications in Northern Europe, still a functioning military garrison, a cultural museum, and a park. In my humble opinion, the best evidence of the effectiveness of this pretty fortification comes from the army of snapping swans loitering in the hope of snaffling tourist snacks. Be warned!

Rosenborg Palace

I have waxed lyrical about Rosenborg Palace in a previous jotting (link to Copenhagen Top 10 blog), so I won’t repeat myself. Except to reiterate that it is a must-see for any Royalophile blessed with a half decent imagination. When I was there, I was a spoilt Rococo princess for an hour. I pictured myself straddling the silver lions flanking the royal thrones, scenting myself with delicate oils in the hand-painted bathroom, and chucking a palatial-sized tantrum in the china room. Just for the heck of it. Wonderful fun.

Rosenborg Palace

The Palace and its adjoining gardens, Kongens Have, are open most days from 10am - 4pm. Admission to the Castle and Treasury is free for children and 70DKK for adults. Guided tours of the regular and special exhibitions are available for a whisker under 1000DKK and must be booked at least two weeks in advance.

Christiansborg Palace

Christiansborg Palace is the home to the Danish Parliament (or “Folketing”), the office of the Prime Minister and the Danish Supreme Court. The Royal Reception Rooms, the Queen’s Library, and the Palace Chapel can also be found there. Located on the islet of Slotsholmen in central Copenhagen, it is open to the public year-round. Visitors can attend when the Folketing is in session, or partake in guided tours. Admission to parliament and the chapel is free. Seeing the Royal Reception Rooms will set you back 70DKK (35DKK for children), but it is well worth it, if just to see the stunning Queen’s tapestries decorating the walls of the Great Hall, depicting Denmark’s colourful history, from the Viking Age right up to the present day. There is even one depicting the future. Not surprising given the Danes’ propensity for modern design.

Fredensborg Palace

Take a train from Central Station to Hillerød, then change to the local PP005 train and in no time, you will be in Fredensborg, location of the Royal Family’s most frequented palace. A baroque inspired masterpiece built in the 18th century, Fredensborg Palace is where Queen Margarethe, Prince Henrik and their regal brood spends spring and autumn. The stunning gardens are the jewel in the botanical crown of the royal estate, being one of the finest examples of baroque landscaping in Denmark.

Rosenborg Palace - Silver Lions

The imposing state function rooms are the site for many of the state visits and royal events, and the palace church is where Crown Prince Frederik was confirmed in 1981 and his daughter Princess Isabella was christened 26 years later. Maybe it’s just me, but I find there’s something comforting in the thought of generations of royals attending the religious rites of passage of their children and children’s children on common ground. Unless you’re desperate to pop in when the royals are at home, the best time of year to visit is in July, when they are at Marselisborg or Gråsten, meaning that Fredensborg’s reserved gardens right next to the palace are open to the public. The rest of the garden is open year-round, a special feature of which is the eerie assembly at Nordmandsdalen (Norwegian Valley) of 70 statues of Norwegian and Faroese peasants and fishermen. Distributed evenly across three sharply profiled grass terraces, the peasants stand as if guarding the striking amphitheatre. Don’t blink or they might attack…

Frederiksborg Palace

While no longer a royal residence, Frederiksborg Palace is today the site of the Danish Museum of National History and still a fine example of a Renaissance palace. In fact, it is Scandinavia’s largest… if superlatives and quantifiers are what floats your boat (on your moat). The oldest parts of the castle were constructed in 1560 when King Frederick II was in power.

Frederiskborg Castle

Today, apart from viewing the museums collection of portraits, decorative art and furniture, you can also meander through the gardens, past the Bath House Castle (today used by Her Maj for occasional luncheon parties) and Christian IV’s fabled stone which he evidently laid as a melancholy memory of the day he was refused admittance to his wife’s boudoir. Do pop into Café Havehuset for a sandwich and a coffee when your legs need a rest. The setting on a sunny day is fit for a king (on a page’s wage).

Kronborg Castle (Hamlet’s Castle)

If it is superlatives you’re after, look no further than Kronborg Castle, known world-wide as Hamlet’s Castle “Elsinore”, and one of the most important Renaissance castles in Europe. For 90DKK you get access to the royal apartments, chapel, Danish Maritime Museum and the Telegraph Tower. My advice is to skip the latter two and instead buy a 65DKK ticket covering just the apartments and chapel. Oh, and take your walking shoes. Because this is a castle designed in times before access ramps were a necessity. Filled with steep staircases, narrow hallways, and a myriad other tripping hazards, you need to watch where you’re going, and be in fairly good shape to get there. But that all adds to the fun, in my opinion. Particularly stumbling into the dangerously dark nooks of the underground cellars which house, among other things, a fabulous statue of sleeping Holger the Dane. The myth tells us that when the kingdom is under threat from a foreign enemy, Holger will pull a Pinocchio and turn to flesh and blood, bounding up with a Viking roar ready to defend the fatherland. Stumbling across him in the gloom, the myth isn’t half as unlikely as it sounds.

Hamlet Castle

If you’re looking for an end to this fairytale, there really isn’t one… the list of Denmark’s castles and palaces go on and on like the Tin Soldier’s drumbeat. There’s not a high probability you’ll be able or willing to visit every one of them. Let’s face it, seeing how the other half lives when they live so damned well can hold a limited appeal. But do make time to visit at least one or two of them. Because who’s to say a Handsome Prince(ss) won’t pluck you form obscurity? Just look at Princess Mary…

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip to Denmark? Browse Viator’s Denmark Tours, Sightseeing & Things to do, from a City tour of Copenhagen to a Copenhagen City and Harbor Tour, or wander further in the Danish countryside to discover Denmark’s Castles. Or take a Sweden Day Trip from Copenhagen to enjoy Helsingborg, Lund and Malmo.

Château Thierry in Champagne

Versailles

Around 17km (10.6 miles) southwest of Paris, Versailles is to all intents and purposes a suburb of the French capital. It is also the most popular day trip destination from Paris, and that’s due to the famous château. What began as a simple hunting lodge under French king Louis XIII became the most important building in France under his son. Louis XIV had the lodge expanded into an opulent palace, and moved the entire French government there. It was his way of making sure he had absolute control of everything. Nowadays, it is still used for some state functions, but most of the visitors to the château are tourists. They come for a good old gawp at how the other half lived. The apartments of the king and queen are lavishly decorated as they would have been during Louis XIV’s heyday in the 17th century. The highlight for many is the Hall of Mirrors. As the name would suggest, it features 357 mirrors and has been the venue for many historic occasions. These include the signing of the Treaty of Versailles, which divided the spoils after World War I.

Although the palace interiors are what most visitors wish to see, it’s the gardens that often leave the biggest impression. They’re extensive, beautifully designed and take considerably more work than mowing your back garden does…

Château de Compiègne

Compiègne

A 50-minute train journey north of Paris, Compiègne also plays home to a royal château. Compiègne’s version is a little more understated than the one in Versailles. The rooms have been restored to how they were in various eras, making the tour around the building a somewhat eclectic experience. Napoleons I and III are heavily represented, and the best story is about one of the bedrooms. It belonged to Napoleon’s second wife, Marie-Louise, but due to cost factors she wasn’t allowed to decorate it as she’d like. So she got to sleep amongst a hideous blaze of pink, chosen personally by Napoleon’s first wife, Joséphine. That must have gone down a treat.The gardens are enormous, disappearing into the forest and accommodating an equestrian cross-country course.

Aside from the château, Compiègne’s highlights are historic in nature. First up comes the spot where French heroine Jean d’Arc was finally captured, but more interesting is a railway carriage in a forest clearing. Unfortunately, the carriage is a replica (the original was burned during World War II), but the site is hugely significant. This was where, in top secret, Germany surrendered to end World War I. In World War II, Hitler insisted on making France surrender in exactly the same carriage, in exactly the same spot. Now the clearing hosts a small-but-fascinating museum and one of France’s major war memorials.

The Champagne region

True bubbly fanatics are probably better off staying overnight in Reims or Epernay, but those just wanting to sample the fun of the fizz can enjoy a whistlestop charge through the Champagne region in a day from Paris. The distance from Paris to Reims is around 145km (90 miles), and a return trip can easily be conquered in a day by hire car or train. It’s a city of churches, public squares and Roman remains, but the obvious draw card is the World Heritage-listed Cathedral de Notre-Dame. It’s an enormous Gothic monster, and easily one of the most impressive in Europe.

However, the real highlights of the Champagne region lie in the vineyards. They’re not adequately served by train, and self-driving provides the slight problem of not being legally able to drink the good stuff. Thus the tour option becomes the best bet. Epernay is the hub of the region, but the major champagne houses are spread out. Amongst the big names that can be visited are Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Dom Perignon and Mumm. It’s not just the sampling that makes such a trip worthwhile, however – the drive through vineyard scenery is usually enough to bring a contented smile to any face.

Metz Moselle River and Temple Neuf

Metz

A few years ago, it would be absurd to suggest Metz as a day trip from Paris. But with the recent installation of a high speed train line, it only takes 82 minutes to get to the eastern city from Paris’ Gare de l’Est. It’s a wonderfully good-looking city, and contains a real hodge-podge of architecture. Some of the more pompous, grandiose buildings in the south of the city date from a period of German rule, while there are Roman remains dotted throughout and a stunning if (slightly sinister-looking) Protestant church in the middle of an island in the Moselle river.

When darkness falls, Metz is brilliantly lit up – big sums have clearly been spent on showing the city’s buildings off in the best possible manner. Therefore, if going on a day trip from Paris, it’s a good idea to go in winter time when days are shorter. Show up in November or December, and you also get the benefit of the awesome Christmas markets. In terms of cultural attractions, the big two are the Musée de la Cour d’Or - which covers everything from fine art to full-sized peasant houses – and the recently-opened Centre Pompidou-Metz. The latter is the first regional branch of Paris’ Pompidou Centre, and it houses a seriously impressive collection.

Nancy Chamber of Commerce

Nancy

Nancy is another city that has reaped the extraordinary benefits of the high-speed rail link to Paris. The journey takes just 90 minutes (again from Gare de l’Est), and there’s ample time during a day to cover the city’s highlights. Nancy is mostly famous as an epicentre of Art Nouveau architecture. There are buildings throughout the city decorated with the movement’s trademark flowers and curves. The Chambre du Commerce et d’Industrie is a good example, with its ironwork and stained glass, but the Banque du Crédit Lyonnais on rue St George is the real jaw-dropper. Nip inside and look up – the stained glass ceiling is an enormous work of thoroughly impressive detail.

Real devotees should head to Musée de l’ École de Nancy. It’s a grand villa packed with works by Nancy’s Art Nouveau movers and shakers. It’s utter overkill on the floral and natural influences in many cases, but it’s undoubtedly worth a visit. If just a taste is enough, abandon the Art Nouveau trail and head to Place Stanislas. Ringed with café bars, this huge square is arguably one of the finest public squares in Europe. It’s huge, and acts as the central social hub in this instinctively likeable city.

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Day trips from Paris, from trips to the Champagne Region to Giverny tours, or even tours to Mont St Michel or a Loire Valley Castles day trip.

And while it’s still possible to sneak into sessions through the day at Melbourne’s big chain cinemas (not that I’m recommending it, of course), daytime is so much busier these days, what with work and babies and stuff, making such decadent spontaneity difficult to arrange in advance.

So that leaves balmy summer evenings as the only warm-weather time to see movies. And until the advent of outdoor cinema in Melbourne, that meant staying inside at the best time of the day. No longer.
Moonlight Cinema was the trailblazer, setting up a screen in Melbourne’s lush Botanical Gardens and playing first-run, classic and cult movies under the stars. It took off and is now a real Melbourne experience, featuring catering, bean beds for hire and sell-out sessions most nights.

Competing for this chicken-and-white-wine market is the newer OpenAir cinema at Birrarung Mar, a fabulous park by the river in the city. An enormous screen, grandstand seating and movieplex titles draw huge book-ahead crowds and even bigger sponsorship deals.

But that leaves the hipsters with nowhere to go. Or it did until last year, when the gritty Rooftop CinemaThe Breakfast Club, Easy Rider, My Own Private Idaho or Dogs in Space. cranked up in the heart of the city and started showing a diverse range of indy and cult movies. The pick of the bunch now, Rooftop is perfect for those wanting a cold beer and a dose of

There’s also an open-air cinema down on the foreshore in St Kilda. I’m a bit scared of St Kilda (sea air does strange things to people, dontcha think?), so I can’t report first-hand on it. It runs through February, features live music and DJs and is probably loads of fun. Check out their website — stkildaopenair.com.au — if you can endure the annoying 38-second song that plays.

-John Ryan

Planning a trip? Check out John’s Melbourne summertime travel tips and his Melbourne pub guide. Or have a look at all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Melbourne, from Colonial Tram Car dinners to Yarra Valley Wine Tasting.