But a bustling metropolis it is not. It’s the kind of town you get to know in a day. And on the second day, you meet everyone who lives there. Everyone. So unless you intend to travel outside of Reykjavik and commune with nature, there’s not much point in being in the Icelandic capital for more than a long weekend. There are only so many times one can ambulate downtown’s main street, Laugavegur, before it starts getting really old. And nobody likes vinarbrauð (Iceland’s version of a Danish, filled with marzipan and icing instead of fruit) and coffee that much.

Pylsur - the national food of Iceland. Yes, it's a hot dog.

Nevertheless, Reykjavík’s viking-meets-water-nymph eccentricity is utterly charming and if you’re aware of her greatest hits before you get there, three or four days will fly by. Try not to expect too much from Reykjavik, and she will treat you to a fine long weekend indeed.

Reykjavik on foot

First up, you need to orient yourself as Reykjavik is a town that can easily be seen on foot. Use Hallgrímskirkja (the towering Lutheran church at the top of Skólavörðustígur) as a starting point. Venture up the tower for an impressive bird’s-eye view (400ISK for adults, 100ISK for children 7-14) then walk down Skólavörðustígur to sample some of the local arts and craft shops and cafes (Mokka and Babalú are great pit-stop points).

At the bottom of the hill, Laugavegur to the right and Bankastræti to the left provide a paradise of clothes boutiques and eateries worth exploring. The day doesn’t start in Iceland before coffee has been consumed. The locals take their java juice seriously (almost as seriously as their coffee breaks which are frequent and protracted). Hjólmalind, resident hippie café, makes a sensational soy chai latte. Tíu Dropar’s cakes and coffee are a welcome treat after navigating Laugavegur’s foot traffic and the grandma’s parlour atmosphere attracts hipsters and older locals alike.

My parents went to Iceland and all I got was this lousy…

For unique Icelandic shopping, pick up something made from Icelandic wool, pop into Naked Ape (the nu-rave outfitters of the north), Rokk og Rósir (flawless vintage), or Aftur, for an utterly Icelandic look.

From there, you can either head downhill towards City Hall and Tjörnin (The Pond) and its surrounding gardens, or steer yourself seawards for a stroll along the shore. The Sun Craft sculpture, separated from Mount Esja by a choppy bay, makes a wonderful photograph; the rusting shipping vessels propped up getting fresh coats of paint are endlessly fascinating.

The Sun Craft sculpture

From here, you can venture down to the Maritime Museum in the old harbour, dubbed the Fishpacking District due to the new artist and recording studios and offbeat boutiques springing up there (vintage refurbished bicycles at Kria, and unique clothing, accessories and giftware with a macabre twist at Vopnabúrið).

Reykjavik bars & clubs

Don’t assume that after a day of walking the only way of unwinding is in a hot tub. The nightlife is well worth rugging up for. Since the 2007 closure of legendary bar Sirkus (famed for its rafter-hanging, all-night, celebrity-packed antics) other favourites Boston, Kaffibarrinn and Karumba have stepped up to fill the void.

Friday and Saturday nights are wild affairs downtown… one good reason to choose a hotel slightly off the beaten track if partying isn’t your thing. Gutsy local English-language newspaper The Grapevine elucidates on the issues of the day as well as listing special events and gigs worth attending. If you are lucky enough to be in town when Sigur Rós, Múm, FM Belfast, Reykjavík!, or Gus Gus are on the bill, take my word for it and go along.

Please don’t stare at Björk

While on the subject of homegrown talent, given Reykjavik’s diminutive size, there’s a good chance that a night out will see you lining up for a Brennivín or a Víking beer alongside local or even international celebrities. If you feel the urge to whip out your camera and start snapping, please resist. Most bars operate a “no photography” policy so that the privacy of their patrons is respected.

Street art in Reykjavik

My first “Björk encounter” (everybody here’s had one) was puzzling. I assumed the woman everyone was studiously ignoring was an enthusiastic lookalike rather than the genuine article. Despite being clad head to toe in white lace, she wasn’t getting a single wayward glance. Upon mumbled inquiry, I discovered it was indeed the Swan Dress Lady in all her doilied glory.

That’s just the way Icelanders treat native talent. They treat them as they would a fishmonger. Or the Prime Minister. As equals. The experience was repeated when I found myself soaking in a hot tub opposite Magnús Scheving (AKA Sportacus from LazyTown… those of you with kids will know who I’m talking about). We swapped smiles, pleasantries, and then got back to soaking.

While we’re on the subject, Iceland’s water culture definitely rates a mention and no Icelandic adventure is complete without it. The options are numerous – local pool and spa complexes, tourist haven the Blue Lagoon, or some of the naturally occurring hot springs further afield. Check out my blog on Getting Soaked in Iceland for more information.

What to eat in Reykjavik? Fish of course. And hot dogs

There’s no escaping the fact that Reykjavík is a fishing town. Unsurprisingly, the seafood here is fresh, affordable and delicious. Visit Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) on the dock where whale watching boats and whaling vessels moor, incongruously, side by side. It’s not the cheapest fish in town, particularly given that it’s served on Styrofoam plates, but their lobster soup is touted by gourmands of repute as the world’s best. (I can’t comment due to a shellfish allergy, but all the visitors I’ve taken there have raved.)

OSushi (upstairs at Iða bookstore on Lækjargata) offers sushi-train japery. If you’re feeling adventurous, let the fish roll by and instead hop on board with whale sashimi or (brace yourselves…) foal sushi.

The menu at local favourite þrir Frakkar incudes smoked puffin, whale, reindeer, plokkfiskur and many other traditional Icelandic dishes.

If, however, your budget leans more towards paper napkins than linen tablecloths, head straight for Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur across the road from the Kolaportið carpark to sample the Icelandic national food… hot dogs. Even hole in the wall vendors offer a good product but the pylsurs here set the standard. Bill Clinton ate here during his visit in 2004 (just mustard, hold the onions and ketchup). Shame. Those crunchy fried-onions and sweet relish are what make the Icelandic pylsur truly great.

Art & culture in Reykjavik

Open from 11am-5pm every Saturday and Sunday, Kolaportið Flea Market is another worthwhile destination. It is a genuine trash and treasure affair, particularly since last year’s financial crash when Icelanders realised they should be focussing on frugality rather than futures funds.

Just a few blocks away on Tryggvagata you will find Listasafn, Reykjavik’s Art Museum. Despite its grand semblance, it presents an easily absorb-able number of works – large scale paintings, photography and installations – making it viewable in under an hour. Entry is free; save your kronur for the upstairs café serving good coffee and a selection of soups and sandwiches, all coming with a complimentary side order of sea view.

If Iceland’s Viking past interests you, the National Museum of Iceland has a comprehensive collection of artefacts and historical information – presented in Icelandic and English.

Day trips from Reykjavik

There are a handful of good day trips from Reykjavik. The Golden Circle tour of south-eastern Iceland is imperative. Either hire a car or join one of the many Golden Circle tours on offer. The Golden Circle tour is an excellent way to sample Iceland’s natural beauty in a day: Þingvellir National Park, the site where the European and American tectonic plates meet, Gulfoss waterfall, and Geysir (which faithfully shoots a jet of steaming water skywards every four minutes).

Some of Reykjavik’s closer attractions - such as Perlan, the site of the city’s hot water storage and a fancy revolving restaurant; the geothermally heated beach Nautholsvik; and the hot tubs at Seltjanarnes - are all reachable by bus. Tickets, routes and timetable information can be found online or in person at the central bus stop Hlemmur.

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Iceland sightseeing & things to do in Iceland suggestions, including Iceland day tours and things to do in Reykjavik. Also check out Kelly’s previous blog about Iceland.

We could have gone for more, but here are five of the best Madrid day trip options in central Spain.

Madrid day trip: Córdoba

Inside the Mezquita, in Cordoba

High-speed rail has opened up amazing possibilities in Spain – especially for those who want to see a lot but have limited time. Seville is often cited as a major beneficiary – the high speed train journey takes two-and-a-half hours, meaning it’s possible to do a day trip there from Madrid (click here for Madrid Toledo tours on Viator.)

But don’t overlook Córdoba. It’s closer (around one hour and 45 minutes on the train), and there’s a reason that it often crops up on Best Destination lists when readers vote in travel magazine polls.

Córdoba is packed with history – it was once the seat of an all powerful Islamic caliphate, and was regarded as the most advanced, enlightened city in Europe.

In the 10th century it was arguably the biggest city in the world, with an estimated 500,000 inhabitants. Architecture spans the ages – from Roman times to when there was a thriving Jewish population. The Jewish quarter is hugely atmospheric, and it leads to what is undoubtedly Córdoba’s star attraction.

The Mezquita is a cathedral that was once a mosque – and it’s a must-see, even for people who hate touring around cathedrals. Inside is an eye-popping series of red and yellow archways. There are hundreds of them, and it has a mesmerising effect as you wander through. (Note Viator has a highly rated 4-day tour of Spain from Madrid that includes Cordoba.)

Madrid day trip: Segovia

Segovia is another city that has benefited from the high speed connection to Madrid – it’s now just over half an hour away from the Spanish capital. It’s a spectacularly located city, sitting above the parched, dusty plains, and it’s loveable from the moment you first set eyes on the aqueduct.

The Roman-built aqueduct is Segovia’s most iconic image, and an astounding feat of engineering. It’s made entirely without cement or concrete, and consists of a series of narrow, spindly archways towering over the rooftops.

Segovia, from the top of the Alcazar

The second major attraction is the Alcazar, which can be found at the other end. The tale goes that this was the building on which the castle for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty was based. It certainly has fairytale looks, and the views from the top of the tower are awesome.

But it’s just as impressive inside – the rooms are lavishly decorated, and the one that is ringed by busts of Spain’s kings and queens is particularly intriguing.

For foodies, however, the Alcazar and aqueduct will be of secondary importance. Segovia is renowned for its suckling pig and lamb. Vegetarians will not be too impressed, but the more carnivorously inclined should brace themselves for huge plates of some of the most tender meat they will ever encounter.
It’s a good job that it’s a fair walk from the aqueduct to the Alcazar – it’s possible to walk off some of that extra bulk on the way. (Note: Viator has a popular day trip from Madrid to Segovia and Avila.)

Madrid day trip: Alcalá de Henares

Part of Madrid’s surrounding area (or Comunidad), Alcalá is essentially a suburb of the Spanish capital. It’s an instantly likeable place of cobbled, winding streets and large public squares. In terms of architecture, its grand cathedral and university buildings are enough to draw in the punters who aren’t there for literary reasons.

Segovia's famous aqueduct

For the book lovers, however, the major reason to visit Alcalá de Henares is that it is the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes. The famous Spanish author is often regarded as the second greatest of all time after William Shakespeare, and his classic Don Quixote is regularly cited as the best book ever written.
Those wanting to find out more about Alcalá’s most famous son can visit the Cervantes birthplace museum but a better bet is to turn up in April.

Cervantes died on April 23rd, 1616 - coincidentally the same date Shakespeare died - and this has been declared UNESCO World Book Day. In Alcala, it becomes a major event, coinciding with the awarding of the Cervantes Prize. This is given out by the King of Spain to the author of the best book in the Spanish language from the preceding year. It’s all highly prestigious, and the satellite town takes on a whole different air.

Madrid day trip: El Escorial

Approximately 45km to the north-west of central Madrid, El Escorial is arguably Spain’s most impressive royal site. It’s in the Sierra de Guadarrama, the mountain range that forms the natural boundary for the community of Madrid. The range is excellent for walking in (and even skiing in winter) but El Escorial is the high point for most.

It’s split into two parts – a huge monastery and a royal hunting lodge – although it’s the monastery that most associate with the name. Inside are some fabulous artworks, including the Hall of Battles where frescos commemorate memorable Spanish military victories.

Statue at El Escorial monastery

The most important part, however, is the Pantheon of the Kings. This is where all Spanish kings and queens are buried, and it looks suitably grand. The marble walls are adorned with gold-plated bronze. The monks – an Augustinian order – still live at El Escorial and help to maintain it. (Check Viator’s tours from Madrid to El Escorial for more day trip options.)

Madrid day trip: Toledo

Madrid may be the current Spanish capital, but Toledo used to be. And for heritage junkies, Toledo makes a perfect day trip from Madrid. It has strong Jewish, Muslim and Christian heritage, with the synagogues, mosques and churches being amongst the more obvious sights. The cathedral, in particular, is a highlight. It’s an enormous Gothic structure, and lavishly decorated inside.

The Alcazar (or fortress) is the other big set piece. It has been, in turn, a royal palace and an infantry training academy. It’s now home to the army museum.

For art fans, the place to go to is the Museo El Greco. Although born in Crete, El Greco is widely considered to be the finest Spanish artist of all time, and the museum plays host to much of his work.
The most endearing thing about Toledo (providing you don’t arrive on a day when it’s crammed with tourists), however, is simply ambling along the narrow, winding streets. The city is a little maze-like, but tremendously atmospheric.

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Madrid tours & things to do in Madrid and Madrid day trips.

The Gasometer

Another stop along the Ruhr’s industrial heritage trail is this enormous gas cylinder in Oberhausen. It has been converted into one of the most bizarre – and striking – exhibition spaces you are ever likely to see. The current exhibition – lasting until at least March 2010 – is about the solar system. Inside, there are retrieved satellites, displays on the history of astronomy and some amazing space photography blown up in gigantic proportions.

Gasometer in Oberhausen

The highlights, however, are the ‘sun’ in the middle of the ground floor exhibition area and ‘The Largest Moon on Earth’. The latter is a sculpture dangling from the top of the Gasometer and has a diameter of 25m. It’s also possible to get a lift up to viewing platforms at the very top of the 117m-tall Gasometer. From there, the views over the whole region are rather spectacular – if rather heavy on the old smoking chimneys.

Wunderland Kalkar

Wunderland Kalkar in North Rhine-Westphalia was originally designed to be Schneller Brüter, a multi-national nuclear power station shared between Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands. For a variety of reasons, however, it was never turned on.

So what do you do with a big, useless nuclear power plant? Turn it into a theme park, of course.
Looking out over the Rhine river, the rollercoasters, big wheels, hotel and conference centre are given a somewhat surreal look by the giant, brightly-painted cooling tower. And for those slightly worried about the park’s history, never fear, its owners guarantee it’s “radiation free”.

Hitler walking tours

It may sound a little tasteless on the surface, but the Third Reich walking tours are one of the most fascinating ways to discover Munich and its dark Nazi-era history. The Nazi party was formed here, and it was where Adolf Hitler rose to prominence. The tours, led by keen historians, take in the Hofbrauhaus – where Hitler held his first major political rally. Also included are the spot where his attempted beer hall putsch was halted and the sites of former Nazi headquarters.

Strangely, it’s the more insignificant bits - such as the photographer’s studio where Hitler met Eva Braun and the buildings he painted as a struggling artist – that really stick in the memory. (From Munich Viator also offers a tour to the Dachau Concentration Camp; if you’re in Berlin, the Third Reich walking tour covers similar chapters in Nazi history.)

Colditz Escape Museum

Continuing the Second World War theme, Colditz Castle in Saxony is arguably the most famous prisoner of war camp in history. Part of it has now been turned into an ultra-modern youth hostel, but the rest is a museum devoted to the numerous escape bids that Allied POWs attempted. The museum goes into the defences that led to the camp being dubbed ‘unescapable’ – think lots of barbed wire, men with guns and snarling dogs.

But most entertaining are the ingenious methods that the captured officers used in an attempt to get out. Unusually, all were photographed by the Nazis in a bid to train guards about what to look out for – and these photos make up the bulk of the museum.

There are pics of would-be-escapees dressed as women, electricians and German guards. There are also dummies that were used to stand in at roll call, while it’s possible to walk through a tunnel that a group of French POWs painstakingly dug.

Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord

The Ruhr region is particularly notable for converting old industrial plants into something a bit odd, and the Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord, in Duisburg, is a classic example. A former ironworks has been transformed into a rather odd-looking public park, where the buildings have been converted into bistros, concert halls, bars and an information centre.

View from halfway up the blast furnace at Landschaftpark Duisburg-Nord

It’s also possible to clamber up to the top of the blast furnace, go free-climbing up the walls of the ore bunkers and have diving lessons in a giant gas cylinder. There’s also a large play area for kids and a series of cycling tracks where the train lines used to run.

The German Occupational Health and Safety Exhibition

Despite sounding like a shoo-in for the title of ‘most boring museum in the known universe’, this enormous maze of workplace wonders is surprisingly engrossing. It’s located in Dortmund, and is utterly bewildering. There’s way more to it than displays on how to lift up boxes properly.

Amongst the many, many things on offer are playful robotic arms, interactive games that mess with your visual perception, aircraft cockpits to sit in and mock-ups of a power station’s control room.

All manner of machinery is on display, from weaving looms and printing presses to helicopters used to repair power lines. There are lots of buttons to press, computers to play with and enormous contraptions to control. All information is in German, so you might not understand what’s going on most of the time if you don’t speak the language, but the sheer scale and ambition of the exhibition make it worth visiting.

Salt mine tour

Having been operational for nearly 500 years, Berchtesgaden’s salt mine is now a tourist attraction. And one that packs in as many forms of novelty transport as it can possibly manage. Visitors dress up in miner’s clothing, whizz down miner’s slides and get into the mine on a miniature train. Once inside, there are chapels made of salt, exhibitions on the mining process and impressive light shows to contend with.

Speeding through the Berchtesgaden salt mine on a miniature train

The trip continues with a raft trip on an eerie underground lake and a funicular railway back up to the top. It’s like a series of theme park rides, an art gallery and an industrial heritage centre all rolled into one. (You can book a joint tour to Berchtesgaden and Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest fortress on Viator.)

Propeller Island hotel

If, after completing your bizarre tour of Germany, you’re looking for somewhere suitably weird to stay, then it’s hard to look past Berlin’s Propeller Island. The brainchild of musician and artist Lars Stroschen, the rooms at Propeller Island are all wildly individual. At best they’re mind-blowingly weird; at worst they’re completely impractical.

One of the most notorious rooms is the upside down room, which has everything – the bed, the chests of drawers, the works, suspended from the ceiling. The real bed can be found hidden in the floor, incidentally. Others include The Mirror Room, which as the name would suggest is entirely surrounded by mirrors. The kaleidoscope effect is nicely complimented by silvery bedsheets…

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Germany tours, things to do in Berlin, Munich tours, and more.

Copenhagen offers up several for public viewing – Amalienborg, Rosenborg, and Christiansborg being the three biggies. For those able to venture a little further afield, there is a host of castles and palaces to see, including the impressive Kronborg Castle, immortalized as “Elsinore” in Shakespeare’s Hamlet.

Fredensborg Palace

For over 1000 years the Houses of Oldenborg and Glücksborg have reigned over their Danish subjects, the present day royalty being direct descendants of the latter clan. Living in the manner of Kings and Queens (not surprisingly), they preside from the comfort of a royal flush of palatial residences, making their selection depending on the season or their regal fancy. Some palaces were built for purposes other than actual occupation, such as the Hermitage Palace, which is dedicated mainly to feasts after royal hunts. And some of them, such as Schackenborg, where Prince Joachim and Princess Alexandra reside, are not open to the public at all. But the majority of royal properties at least offer sections for public viewing, most of which have sensational gardens attached that can be visited year-round.

Amaliensborg Palace

Amalienborg

The current winter residence of HM The Queen and HRH The Prince Consort is Amalienborg, located conveniently within a stone’s throw of the bustling tourist district of Nyhavn. Consisting of four palaces centred around an open courtyard, this stunning monument to Rococo design has been the royal winter residence since 1794. An enduringly popular tourist pastime is to bear witness to the changing of the guard, which takes place daily at midday.

Two of Amalienborg’s four palaces are open to the public, Christian VIII’s Palace and Christian VII’s Palace. The former offers a museum of the Glücksburg dynasty, while the latter, used by the Queen to receive foreign heads of state, offers occasional guided tours and special exhibitions. Amaliehaven, the stunning sculpted garden adjoined to the residence, is always open.

Kastellet

A nearby green space well worth a visit, is Kastellet, one of the best preserved fortifications in Northern Europe, still a functioning military garrison, a cultural museum, and a park. In my humble opinion, the best evidence of the effectiveness of this pretty fortification comes from the army of snapping swans loitering in the hope of snaffling tourist snacks. Be warned!

Rosenborg Palace

I have waxed lyrical about Rosenborg Palace in a previous jotting (link to Copenhagen Top 10 blog), so I won’t repeat myself. Except to reiterate that it is a must-see for any Royalophile blessed with a half decent imagination. When I was there, I was a spoilt Rococo princess for an hour. I pictured myself straddling the silver lions flanking the royal thrones, scenting myself with delicate oils in the hand-painted bathroom, and chucking a palatial-sized tantrum in the china room. Just for the heck of it. Wonderful fun.

Rosenborg Palace

The Palace and its adjoining gardens, Kongens Have, are open most days from 10am - 4pm. Admission to the Castle and Treasury is free for children and 70DKK for adults. Guided tours of the regular and special exhibitions are available for a whisker under 1000DKK and must be booked at least two weeks in advance.

Christiansborg Palace

Christiansborg Palace is the home to the Danish Parliament (or “Folketing”), the office of the Prime Minister and the Danish Supreme Court. The Royal Reception Rooms, the Queen’s Library, and the Palace Chapel can also be found there. Located on the islet of Slotsholmen in central Copenhagen, it is open to the public year-round. Visitors can attend when the Folketing is in session, or partake in guided tours. Admission to parliament and the chapel is free. Seeing the Royal Reception Rooms will set you back 70DKK (35DKK for children), but it is well worth it, if just to see the stunning Queen’s tapestries decorating the walls of the Great Hall, depicting Denmark’s colourful history, from the Viking Age right up to the present day. There is even one depicting the future. Not surprising given the Danes’ propensity for modern design.

Fredensborg Palace

Take a train from Central Station to Hillerød, then change to the local PP005 train and in no time, you will be in Fredensborg, location of the Royal Family’s most frequented palace. A baroque inspired masterpiece built in the 18th century, Fredensborg Palace is where Queen Margarethe, Prince Henrik and their regal brood spends spring and autumn. The stunning gardens are the jewel in the botanical crown of the royal estate, being one of the finest examples of baroque landscaping in Denmark.

Rosenborg Palace - Silver Lions

The imposing state function rooms are the site for many of the state visits and royal events, and the palace church is where Crown Prince Frederik was confirmed in 1981 and his daughter Princess Isabella was christened 26 years later. Maybe it’s just me, but I find there’s something comforting in the thought of generations of royals attending the religious rites of passage of their children and children’s children on common ground. Unless you’re desperate to pop in when the royals are at home, the best time of year to visit is in July, when they are at Marselisborg or Gråsten, meaning that Fredensborg’s reserved gardens right next to the palace are open to the public. The rest of the garden is open year-round, a special feature of which is the eerie assembly at Nordmandsdalen (Norwegian Valley) of 70 statues of Norwegian and Faroese peasants and fishermen. Distributed evenly across three sharply profiled grass terraces, the peasants stand as if guarding the striking amphitheatre. Don’t blink or they might attack…

Frederiksborg Palace

While no longer a royal residence, Frederiksborg Palace is today the site of the Danish Museum of National History and still a fine example of a Renaissance palace. In fact, it is Scandinavia’s largest… if superlatives and quantifiers are what floats your boat (on your moat). The oldest parts of the castle were constructed in 1560 when King Frederick II was in power.

Frederiskborg Castle

Today, apart from viewing the museums collection of portraits, decorative art and furniture, you can also meander through the gardens, past the Bath House Castle (today used by Her Maj for occasional luncheon parties) and Christian IV’s fabled stone which he evidently laid as a melancholy memory of the day he was refused admittance to his wife’s boudoir. Do pop into Café Havehuset for a sandwich and a coffee when your legs need a rest. The setting on a sunny day is fit for a king (on a page’s wage).

Kronborg Castle (Hamlet’s Castle)

If it is superlatives you’re after, look no further than Kronborg Castle, known world-wide as Hamlet’s Castle “Elsinore”, and one of the most important Renaissance castles in Europe. For 90DKK you get access to the royal apartments, chapel, Danish Maritime Museum and the Telegraph Tower. My advice is to skip the latter two and instead buy a 65DKK ticket covering just the apartments and chapel. Oh, and take your walking shoes. Because this is a castle designed in times before access ramps were a necessity. Filled with steep staircases, narrow hallways, and a myriad other tripping hazards, you need to watch where you’re going, and be in fairly good shape to get there. But that all adds to the fun, in my opinion. Particularly stumbling into the dangerously dark nooks of the underground cellars which house, among other things, a fabulous statue of sleeping Holger the Dane. The myth tells us that when the kingdom is under threat from a foreign enemy, Holger will pull a Pinocchio and turn to flesh and blood, bounding up with a Viking roar ready to defend the fatherland. Stumbling across him in the gloom, the myth isn’t half as unlikely as it sounds.

Hamlet Castle

If you’re looking for an end to this fairytale, there really isn’t one… the list of Denmark’s castles and palaces go on and on like the Tin Soldier’s drumbeat. There’s not a high probability you’ll be able or willing to visit every one of them. Let’s face it, seeing how the other half lives when they live so damned well can hold a limited appeal. But do make time to visit at least one or two of them. Because who’s to say a Handsome Prince(ss) won’t pluck you form obscurity? Just look at Princess Mary…

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip to Denmark? Browse Viator’s Denmark Tours, Sightseeing & Things to do, from a City tour of Copenhagen to a Copenhagen City and Harbor Tour, or wander further in the Danish countryside to discover Denmark’s Castles. Or take a Sweden Day Trip from Copenhagen to enjoy Helsingborg, Lund and Malmo.

Château Thierry in Champagne

Versailles

Around 17km (10.6 miles) southwest of Paris, Versailles is to all intents and purposes a suburb of the French capital. It is also the most popular day trip destination from Paris, and that’s due to the famous château. What began as a simple hunting lodge under French king Louis XIII became the most important building in France under his son. Louis XIV had the lodge expanded into an opulent palace, and moved the entire French government there. It was his way of making sure he had absolute control of everything. Nowadays, it is still used for some state functions, but most of the visitors to the château are tourists. They come for a good old gawp at how the other half lived. The apartments of the king and queen are lavishly decorated as they would have been during Louis XIV’s heyday in the 17th century. The highlight for many is the Hall of Mirrors. As the name would suggest, it features 357 mirrors and has been the venue for many historic occasions. These include the signing of the Treaty of Versailles, which divided the spoils after World War I.

Although the palace interiors are what most visitors wish to see, it’s the gardens that often leave the biggest impression. They’re extensive, beautifully designed and take considerably more work than mowing your back garden does…

Château de Compiègne

Compiègne

A 50-minute train journey north of Paris, Compiègne also plays home to a royal château. Compiègne’s version is a little more understated than the one in Versailles. The rooms have been restored to how they were in various eras, making the tour around the building a somewhat eclectic experience. Napoleons I and III are heavily represented, and the best story is about one of the bedrooms. It belonged to Napoleon’s second wife, Marie-Louise, but due to cost factors she wasn’t allowed to decorate it as she’d like. So she got to sleep amongst a hideous blaze of pink, chosen personally by Napoleon’s first wife, Joséphine. That must have gone down a treat.The gardens are enormous, disappearing into the forest and accommodating an equestrian cross-country course.

Aside from the château, Compiègne’s highlights are historic in nature. First up comes the spot where French heroine Jean d’Arc was finally captured, but more interesting is a railway carriage in a forest clearing. Unfortunately, the carriage is a replica (the original was burned during World War II), but the site is hugely significant. This was where, in top secret, Germany surrendered to end World War I. In World War II, Hitler insisted on making France surrender in exactly the same carriage, in exactly the same spot. Now the clearing hosts a small-but-fascinating museum and one of France’s major war memorials.

The Champagne region

True bubbly fanatics are probably better off staying overnight in Reims or Epernay, but those just wanting to sample the fun of the fizz can enjoy a whistlestop charge through the Champagne region in a day from Paris. The distance from Paris to Reims is around 145km (90 miles), and a return trip can easily be conquered in a day by hire car or train. It’s a city of churches, public squares and Roman remains, but the obvious draw card is the World Heritage-listed Cathedral de Notre-Dame. It’s an enormous Gothic monster, and easily one of the most impressive in Europe.

However, the real highlights of the Champagne region lie in the vineyards. They’re not adequately served by train, and self-driving provides the slight problem of not being legally able to drink the good stuff. Thus the tour option becomes the best bet. Epernay is the hub of the region, but the major champagne houses are spread out. Amongst the big names that can be visited are Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Dom Perignon and Mumm. It’s not just the sampling that makes such a trip worthwhile, however – the drive through vineyard scenery is usually enough to bring a contented smile to any face.

Metz Moselle River and Temple Neuf

Metz

A few years ago, it would be absurd to suggest Metz as a day trip from Paris. But with the recent installation of a high speed train line, it only takes 82 minutes to get to the eastern city from Paris’ Gare de l’Est. It’s a wonderfully good-looking city, and contains a real hodge-podge of architecture. Some of the more pompous, grandiose buildings in the south of the city date from a period of German rule, while there are Roman remains dotted throughout and a stunning if (slightly sinister-looking) Protestant church in the middle of an island in the Moselle river.

When darkness falls, Metz is brilliantly lit up – big sums have clearly been spent on showing the city’s buildings off in the best possible manner. Therefore, if going on a day trip from Paris, it’s a good idea to go in winter time when days are shorter. Show up in November or December, and you also get the benefit of the awesome Christmas markets. In terms of cultural attractions, the big two are the Musée de la Cour d’Or - which covers everything from fine art to full-sized peasant houses – and the recently-opened Centre Pompidou-Metz. The latter is the first regional branch of Paris’ Pompidou Centre, and it houses a seriously impressive collection.

Nancy Chamber of Commerce

Nancy

Nancy is another city that has reaped the extraordinary benefits of the high-speed rail link to Paris. The journey takes just 90 minutes (again from Gare de l’Est), and there’s ample time during a day to cover the city’s highlights. Nancy is mostly famous as an epicentre of Art Nouveau architecture. There are buildings throughout the city decorated with the movement’s trademark flowers and curves. The Chambre du Commerce et d’Industrie is a good example, with its ironwork and stained glass, but the Banque du Crédit Lyonnais on rue St George is the real jaw-dropper. Nip inside and look up – the stained glass ceiling is an enormous work of thoroughly impressive detail.

Real devotees should head to Musée de l’ École de Nancy. It’s a grand villa packed with works by Nancy’s Art Nouveau movers and shakers. It’s utter overkill on the floral and natural influences in many cases, but it’s undoubtedly worth a visit. If just a taste is enough, abandon the Art Nouveau trail and head to Place Stanislas. Ringed with café bars, this huge square is arguably one of the finest public squares in Europe. It’s huge, and acts as the central social hub in this instinctively likeable city.

-David Whitley

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Day trips from Paris, from trips to the Champagne Region to Giverny tours, or even tours to Mont St Michel or a Loire Valley Castles day trip.

And while it’s still possible to sneak into sessions through the day at Melbourne’s big chain cinemas (not that I’m recommending it, of course), daytime is so much busier these days, what with work and babies and stuff, making such decadent spontaneity difficult to arrange in advance.

So that leaves balmy summer evenings as the only warm-weather time to see movies. And until the advent of outdoor cinema in Melbourne, that meant staying inside at the best time of the day. No longer.
Moonlight Cinema was the trailblazer, setting up a screen in Melbourne’s lush Botanical Gardens and playing first-run, classic and cult movies under the stars. It took off and is now a real Melbourne experience, featuring catering, bean beds for hire and sell-out sessions most nights.

Competing for this chicken-and-white-wine market is the newer OpenAir cinema at Birrarung Mar, a fabulous park by the river in the city. An enormous screen, grandstand seating and movieplex titles draw huge book-ahead crowds and even bigger sponsorship deals.

But that leaves the hipsters with nowhere to go. Or it did until last year, when the gritty Rooftop CinemaThe Breakfast Club, Easy Rider, My Own Private Idaho or Dogs in Space. cranked up in the heart of the city and started showing a diverse range of indy and cult movies. The pick of the bunch now, Rooftop is perfect for those wanting a cold beer and a dose of

There’s also an open-air cinema down on the foreshore in St Kilda. I’m a bit scared of St Kilda (sea air does strange things to people, dontcha think?), so I can’t report first-hand on it. It runs through February, features live music and DJs and is probably loads of fun. Check out their website — stkildaopenair.com.au — if you can endure the annoying 38-second song that plays.

-John Ryan

Planning a trip? Check out John’s Melbourne summertime travel tips and his Melbourne pub guide. Or have a look at all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Melbourne, from Colonial Tram Car dinners to Yarra Valley Wine Tasting.

London town had come a-calling, so seemed it was time for the ultimate bored game, why not a round of Monopoly? But mind you, given some of the prices you’d find in the ‘spensive parts of Ol’ Blighty, you’d have to be Rich Uncle Pennybags himself to afford a beer or five if you was to play the Monopoly drinking game. And given I’m not one to do as I’m told, drinking on queue could be added to that list, ‘specially if the mood and lighting ain’t quite right.

Have monopolies, will travel

So, I’m told that “The game is named after the economic concept of monopoly, the domination of a market by a single entity.” Happy to be that single entotty, and without ample warning to the ports of England, I planned to take the place by storm and force whatever mon-archy there may be to their knees until they cry Oligarchy, which I have on good word is An-archy’s half-brother in-law, twice removed.

Jack goes on a monopoly lookabout in London

Yessiree, the plan to put as many hotels on top of as many train stations, free houses and half-owned streets was the plan, and the means, well cough up for an Oyster and you are more than half-way there.

Johnno had taken more than his fair share of time getting down to the Off Licence (Bottle-o as the folks back home would have it known), so in a hurry to get the game started and rolling dicewards, my hesitation at ripping the oversized fuzzy dice off the rear view mirror of his panel van was a little more short lived that it would have been, if he was standing in the lounge room holding a couple of those super strength London’s finest “Golden Pride” proudly aloft in his hairy little mittens.

But Johnno’s finer points aside, I was ready for the ultimate bard game, that’s right I was gonna own London itself! Even if it was only bounded by the unsurveyed fences of my under-utiliitised mind, where a man can run all the Power Companies himself, regardless of how many trips to the Water Works are required, or how many times you’ve won $10 in an urban beautification contest. Thought I could start off small and local and make a visit to the Community Chest, y’know, take a bit of a Chance – but when I asked her, she wasn’t interested and was lucky to get off without a slap in the face.

Do not pass Go, do not collect $200. To town it is then.

London Monopoly: To the circus!

Stop One was Oxford Circus – no, not one for the kiddies with fairground attractions and rides and fun for all the family. This stop managed to get me my first Hotel as well as landing on the corner of two streets – Oxford and Regent. Skipping off down Regent a stone’s throw away had me at Langham Place, opposite the mightily venerated BBC, home of er, BBC1, 2 and 3, but I think 4 is somewhere else.

Across the road was the Langham Hotel – told ‘em who I was and rather than show me the door they showed me around. A bar that said BAR, made from the finest quality marble and old money itself, a Tea Room that (now let me show you my tea prowess) with the right cup of hand-cut Uji Japanese Sencha green tea will have you seeing through time with all the right accoutrements and knobs on (amazing stuff hanging from the tea room ceiling). And not to forget a Grand Ballroom that is grand and could easily accommodate a ball in its roominess. Tick, tick, tick – boxes checked, rent paid, Hotel placed on Regent Street.

Round the back of the Palladium and via Great Marlborough Street (was the Monopoly board missing the Great there?) I headed back up to the Circus and made for Victoria Street just in time to catch that naughty little number 11 double-decker bus (upstairs front row Seat of Death anyone?) about to sneak off to Liverpool Street. So I jumped the bugger when he weren’t looking and rode that bus like a broken buck mule on its merry way round the whistle-stop Monopoly lookabout tour.

London lookabout tour

Wending up past Westminster Abbey and Parliament in time to catch the changing of the guard and the household Calvalry, I spied a massive stone erection in the approaching square. “Alas poor Horatio, I knew him well, Yorrick”, Yoda once mumbled to me after a night on the whiskey of Scotch, and indeed it was. Nelson with a pillar up his clacker high up in the air, declaring something in geological time and marking the spot where Trafalgar Square had been won in the bloody battle of Passing Jail (I think).

But in fact I believe, never to let a gaming opportunity go by, he was pointing to a free house! “London Moon of the Mall” (of course), so I notched that up then: four properties, one hotel and one house. I was putting the winner back into weiner faster than you could say, “Um, yeah, sure, right.”

Bond Street: Jack's looking for Rich Uncle Pennybags himself to afford it

Another roll of the invisible fuzzy dice had the bus rolling up the Strand, past the Adelphi Theatre, another quick Hotel was stacked on, courtesy of the Waldorf Hilton (a healthy high class, tossed salad establishment). Next the Belgravia Hotel obliged as Fleet Street came by and though I heard not the clackety-clack of the journalist ridden typewriters of the newspapers that, well at least in cheap paperback novels, made the Fleet Street name famous, it was more apt I reckoned, given the ways of the English papers, that the Old Bailey was easily seen across the way – rough justice served daily, condiments extra.

Liverpool Street was little more than a station, a great sprawling train interchange replete with info-confusion and the continental-cum-English confusion of whether to walk on the left or the right side of any given path. No Hotels here so out the door I went, jumping a train round to Kings Cross, sharing its quarters with the patron saint of heavy drinkers, St Pancreas, and on out of town I went. Given Monopoly is a little bit older than the contemporary London situation, there were no airports on the board (though I think Fenchurch Station never existed, it was always just a t-shirt brand, if my keen fashion eye is to be believed). Stand-instead Airport had me intrigued and as I was headed out I crawled my way past Whitechapel, and its overflowing street markets sitting right by the Royal Hospital (managed to dodge that hospital bill that jumped out at me by Chance). Bow Road, not street, wiggled past, full of car yards but not a hotel to be seen, so I cut my losses and headed for the king of the board: Mayfair.

A district not a place, Mayfair would be the one to stack those hotels high, get me some rent set up and some cocktails knocked back. I made my way round past the culinary delights and bars lurking round the Angel Islington, said no to Smoking and avoided Pall Mall, had a touch of Free Parking while I dropped the kids off at Picadilly Circus, and some fine shopping without the Super Tax as I rounded Bond Street. With the Park Lane under my feet and Hyde Park in my sights (the starlight hotel doesn’t count I don’t think, spotting some real estate barons-to-be sleeping under newspaper blankets on the Park’s perimeter) I came up upon the Blue patch of Monopoly gold – round from Soho, Mayfair stood like the shimmering diamond of the day’s hard fought riches!

Verily, the hours whirl past

Verily, the hours whirled past like a minute hand whirring round a Looney Tunes clock - Yoda dropped by for a double, the Margaritas became Martinis which left me shaken but not stirred. New friends were made and lost as the line between Monopoly money and real money blurred.

Seemed the next morning I’d made the front page. A fresh copy of the newspaper across my crumpled suit, a rock for a pillow and the hot London summer sun ablaze on my newsprint-stained face – the hangover that stumbled within the long Kubrick-esque Hotels of my mind, grasping only fantasms of the day-before’s unofficial auctions – seems I’d won the lot and spent it, now down on my luck – the only property (or was it a card?) I’d retained had me advanced to the next Utility where I was assessed for Street Repairs. Without it, my life, my insurance, and perhaps I, had matured, and learnt that only a Squatter could truly own the world and not lose it in one day.

-Jack Brown

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s London tours and things to do in London.

Baltimore’s claim to fame is that Poe died here. He was found unconscious in the streets of Baltimore and admitted to the Washington College Hospital. He died on October 7, 1849, and was buried in an unmarked grave in Baltimore’s Old Westminster Graveyard.

Unmarked grave?! Now that’s something to celebrate, Baltimore! Very classy, burying one of America’s most famous authors of the macabre in an unmarked grave after he dies (of alcoholism? murder? disease?).

Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered weak and weary...

Edgar Allan Poe: Vigil, funeral service & more fun!

So how does modern Baltimore celebrate the author of The Fall of the House of Usher, The Murders in the Rue Morgue and the poem “The Raven”? With a midnight vigil and an open-casket funeral service, of course. But wait, there’s more! Addams Family actor and Baltimorean John Astin will help celebrate the demise of Poe, along with hundreds of expected mourners.

The body of Edgar Allan Poe will rest in an open casket during a public viewing on Wednesday, October 7th. The viewing will take place at his last residence on Amity Street in Baltimore, now the Poe House and Museum. In light of the event’s grandeur nature, the Poe House will remain open for 11 hours, from noon to 11pm, giving Poe fans due time to pay their respects. Admission is $5 at the door.

Following the open-casket homage, there’s a midnight candlelight vigil on Thursday, October 8, at the Poe Monument in the Westminster Graveyard. From midnight to 7am, you can present a personal tribute to the late Poe in verse, song or spoken word.

Finally, the funeral service! The City of Baltimore is giving Poe the send-off he never had on Sunday, October 11. An antique horse-drawn hearse, lead by a drum and fife marching band, will carry Poe’s body from his Amity Street home to his final resting place at the Westminster Hall for burial services. The service will include a number of notable speakers reflecting on the life of Poe, as well as Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Charles Baudelair, Rupert Holmes and more. Admission to the service is $35 in advance and $40 at the door (children under 10 not permitted).

Exploring Poe’s Baltimore

The Edgar Allan Poe Tell-Tale Tour of Baltimore (thru October 17) gives Poe lovers the chance to explore Poe’s Baltimore (brought to you by the Greater Baltimore History Alliance). Collect a Raven Trail Guide stamp from at least five of the attractions along the tour.

Also check out the free exhibit “Edgar Allan Poe: A Baltimore Icon” at the Baltimore Museum of Art, “Edgar Allan Poe: More Than a Poet” at the Enoch Pratt Free Library, and ghost tours in historic neighborhoods.

-Viator Travel Team

And what had me baffled even more, why did anyone build such a thing?

In search of answers to these pressing questions (admittedly also in need of a good steam and swim in the sauna / pool next door), I set out into the wilds of the Belgian capital to experience this European voyage in miniature for myself.

Europe big and small. Note the human for scale!

Europe is a wee little thing

There is something intriguing about the attempt to capture the highlights of an entire continent (plus extras - hello UK! hello Scandinavia!) in model form. And the park itself takes up far less space than you might imagine. The exhibits are dwarfed by the world’s largest molecule, the glistening silver atom that dominates the skyline, looming over the fence from next door. It’s a remnant of the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair, sometimes called Belgium’s answer to the Eiffel Tower; you can ascend the Atomium for a panoramic view over Brussels in full-scale (ticket available as an extra with the entrance to Mini-Europe).

The band Contact rocks mini Europe

Every country in the European Union has its own model setting in this strangely intriguing folly. Being an Australian; I am often astounded by the sense of distances in Europe, where a city two hours away can be perceived as a long journey (back home we routinely spend 12 hours on the road to get around the countryside).

Greetings from the space station, wish you were here

There was also something that tickled me about being able to visit all the great European sights in one day – and it appears that many people shared my enthusiasm. The main occupation of visitors to the park is taking snapshots of themselves in front of the monuments: the mini-Eiffel tower; the mini-Big Ben, a North Sea oil rig, the Sacre-Coeur, Brussels’ Grand Place, various picturesque town squares, Mount Vesuvius, even the Ariane space station!

Take a photo in front of the Eiffel Tower

The information about each country also contains a recording of their national anthem; which is activated by pressing a giant blue button. My favourite thing was setting off as many of the national anthems as I could get to play together. I found one particular corner of the park where I could hear a surround-sound medley from Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Estonia and Latvia all playing at once!! Beautiful, joyous diversion for a sound artist who happened to stray into this strange terrain!

I was also impressed by the detail and humour displayed in the exhibits - tiny little people sunbathing on the decks of the boats in Copenhagen; the village square bustling with a market place; a rock band set up in the corner of the Grand Place for a concert. The mini bull ring was complete with blood-thirsty audience and tiny toreadors, while the relaxed cafe lifestyle is well-represented in Vilnius’ model setting.

The only thing missing was a taste of the food from each country – I think the restaurant section of generic Belgian fast-food could happily be replaced with a stand from every one of the countries represented; offering an authentic flavour from their gourmet dishes.

Ceci n’est pas European culture

The park brochure, which contains useful information and anecdotes about each of the countries and the specific models (at a scale of 1:25), opens with a quote from Robert Schuman, President of the European Movement (1955-1961): “This concept, Europe, will make the common foundation of our civilisation clear to all of us and create little by little a link similar to the one with which the nations were forged in the past. ”

The idea of a ‘European Culture’ is one that has particular resonance at this moment; with lively debate on the transnational and transcultural practices between the countries in an expanded European Union taking place in various forums.

Ship life, detail

Yet while the spirit of the endeavour is one of celebration of the diverse cultures in the countries comprising the European Union, the overall feeling I had in the park was something of a nostalgic melancholy. It reminded me of visiting somewhere that you had been as a child, and being saddened at how much smaller everything seemed than your memories of the place.

It felt to me that condensing all these vibrant and exciting locations into a bite-sized afternoon stroll only highlighted my desire to visit the real thing, and experience the full richness of life in all of these places.

Europe in miniature, a case of curiosities

If you’re so inclined you can pick up the photo of yourself with the giant orange EU ambassador/mascot, taken on the way in; or collect souvenirs from all the exhibits.

A perfect bullring, in miniature

I made the most of the photo opportunities; taking snaps of visitors in front of the models. The tiny train line is fascinating, weaving through the city scapes. And the airport is also a wonderful diversion, the planes trundling solemnly along their pre-defined routes, one poised for flight yet never leaving the ground. The oil rig and harbour provide another element, with an ocean liner also ready to leave for the next cruise, tooting the horn and circling endlessly around the small body of water. These icons of transportation certainly offer the inspiration to take a real trip on the next train, plane or boat you can find!

Next door is the Oceania swimming centre, which you can have included as an extra option in the ticket – here the kids can splash about in the wave pool, there is a pirate ship and restaurant, some outdoor pools and the mecca for which I was heading – the sauna.

Brussels' Grand Place

It’s been too long since I got good and steamy in Finland, so this was a much-needed indulgence. Alternating between the dry wood sauna and the steam room, dipping into the freezing cold plunge pool, and finally lounging for a few hours on the reclining chair, I whiled away the afternoon looking out at the garden.

-Jodi Rose

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Brussels tours & things to do in Belgium, from Ghent and Bruges day trips to the Mini Europe Theme Park.

Since the completion of the national ring road in 1974 Icelanders have collectively set out to explore every inhabitable corner of their dramatic country. The 1,339km (832 mile) spin around Route 1 really is the ultimate road trip. With active volcanoes, accessible glaciers, river deltas, black beaches, imposing mountains and lava plains all within easy reach, it seemed the perfect way to show a friend visiting us for a few days some of Iceland’s natural wonders.

Southern Iceland in a Day

We only had a couple of days and so decided to keep it simple. Traveling east out of Reykjavik, the plan was to trace a path along the southern coast towards the vast hunk of ice that is Vatnajökull. Given the choices on offer we thought it best to pick our stop-off points and overnight accommodation as we went along. After all, we had an esky full of food, a car packed with begged and borrowed camping equipment and the open road ahead of us. What could possibly go wrong?

Some of you might remember my blog about a road trip to Aldrei fór ég Suður, a music festival located in Isafjörður, an impossibly remote north western fishing village. The moral learned after that hairy excursion was be prepared for the worst, expect anything, especially from the weather, and never assume that there will be gas, food, or lodging when and where you need it most. Because there usually isn’t.

As much as Route 1 has opened up Iceland up to be explored, it is still little more than a country road connecting a series of sparsely populated villages. It’s cowboy country out here and nothing should be taken for granted. But, buoyed by the morning sun and excited to get going, all these hard-learning lessons deserted us in our hour of departure.

Southern Iceland: East of Reykjavik

Leaving Reykjavik we passed a smattering of N1 petrol stations and suburban malls, then sprawling lava fields and jagged outcrops emitting gentle shots of volcanic steam. Hveragerði, (the Greenhouse Village) is a pretty town boasting gardens year-round due to the heated ground, and a nice place to stop for lunch. But a mere 50km out of town, we pressed on. Much like the Sigur Rós soundtrack playing on the stereo, the weather was moody. Beaming with sunshine one minute, sulking through blackened clouds the next, and then flashing us with rainbows, it was a reminder of the capriciousness of the Icelandic conditions. But we were too busy enjoying the scenery to heed the subtle warning.

Warming hut & charming farmhouses

A little further along, we pulled over at a little stone and turf shelter shed at Sauðhúsvöller to enjoy a picnic lunch. Given the sheer winds, we considered taking our victuals in the little elfin structure, which was build to protect both school children and milk pails from inclement weather while they waited to be picked up. But it was a little squeezy for three adults and so we picnicked in the car instead.

Just as we were pulling back out onto the road, fate intervened in the form of a phone call from a couple of our friends who were at the tail end of a two-week camping holiday with their one-year old. Both natives, they were as experienced and as well-versed on Icelandic travel as you could find. I’m not sure what made them call us at that precise moment but I’d like to imagine it was some kind of Spidey Sense divining our unpreparedness. They reported that from where we were currently, all the way east to Höfn, every guesthouse was booked up. The weather was deteriorating and unless we were prepared to set up camp in a downpour, we should backtrack without delay.

Not what we wanted to hear. To retreat meant no Vatnajökull, no boat trip on the glacial lake, and no sense of accomplishment that we could traverse southern Iceland in a day. Besides, at that stage the rainbows still far outnumbered the clouds. Surely our friends, with the inherent prudence of new parenthood, were merely being over-cautious? We were three Aussies on the loose in a 4WD. We could hack a few rain showers and no doubt exercise our antipodean charm to secure appropriate lodgings in time. Thanking our friends for their advice and promising to wave hello to them as they passed, we pushed onwards.

Southern Iceland: Farmhouses, Icelandic Horses & Sheer Cliffs

Cocooned by the warmth of the car, the highway stretched before us, hugging coastlines and skirting mountains, disarmingly straight for spells before twisting at the last moment to reveal various stunning features in the landscape. Such as the Mýrdalsjökull glacier casually creeping down from between the rocky mountain ridges of Katla, an active volcano long overdue for an eruption. It was almost laughingly offhand.

“Oh hi. I’m a glacier. Hanging out by the highway. With my mate the volcano. No big deal.”

And the rainbows continued to frame and embellish the whole thing like a tiara of a small town beauty queen. It was all so unassuming and yet gorgeously ostentatious at the same time. Spiky rock silhouettes. Blue skies determinedly pushing past the black clouds. Solitary farmhouses contented in their loneliness and undaunted by the sheer cliff backdrops. Icelandic horses tossing their flaxen manes just as the wind tossed the tawny grasses at their feet. I couldn’t help but wonder who had switched southern Iceland for a Disney movie set when we weren’t looking.

Iceland Ice & Fire: Mýrdalsjökull Glacier & Katla Volcano

Then the pouting clouds, threatening tears for so many hours, finally opened the floodgates. As if making up for their earlier restraint, they invited the wind to the party. Together the duo was a sudden and unexpected force to be reckoned with on the unsheltered stretch of road we were on. When Vík came into view, we welcomed the opportunity for a pitstop.

Vík, Iceland’s southernmost village, is well known for it’s arresting black beach, decorated by carved columns of black basalt – the myth says they are former trolls who were caught outside at dawn. It’s also a great place to stop for woollen products or to sup on an exceptional bowl of Kjötsúpa (lamb soup) at the roadhouse. We did both of these things and then, valiantly, recklessly, continued eastward.

Contacting our friends again, we arranged a confab in Kirkjubærklaustur, a village of 120 permanent inhabitants and many hundreds more tourists who use it as a base from which to explore the sights of the Skaftárhreppur district. Refuelling on hot dogs and even hotter tea, our friends gave us the lowdown: deciding the weather was too wild for camping with a baby, they had secured a nearby cabin, the last available in the region. Concerned for us, they had made a tentative booking for us at the accommodation in Hella, some 150km back in the direction from which we’d just come. Our only choices were to turn back now or press on and risk camping in the wild weather.

Southern Iceland: Glacial Lake & Icebergs

Having heard all about the glacial lake Jökulsarlón which was another 120km down Route 1 and the main purpose of our trip, we were loathe to miss it because of a bit of rain. The largest glacial lake in Iceland it was created by the run-off from Breiðamerkurjökull and the Jökulsá river which until 1948 flowed under the glacier directly out to sea. Today the lake sits neatly between the glacier and the sea mouth, a thin isthmus keeping it in like a pasted on smile. It’s an icy punchbowl filled with floating hunks of ice and bobbing seals venturing in from the North Atlantic. Scenes from countless movies had been filmed there, including Die Another Day and View To A Kill and we’d been told that you could take a boat ride amongst the icebergs. We figured we owed it to ourselves and all six Bonds to get there. Onward ho!

Iceland largest glacial lake - lake Jökulsarlón

Racing against the clock we arrived just in time for the last boat ride of the day. The rain, chilled icy cold by the driving wind, was really coming down now. Assuming waterproofs would be provided, we jumped aboard and paid our fare. Alas, our assumptions were founded on nought but the blind optimism we’d packed in the back alongside other people’s tents. We got utterly soaked. But it’s not every day you go boating in a glacial lake so we shut up and put up and enjoyed the ride.

The seals usually seen kicking back on icebergs were today out in the bay romancing each other for the summer breeding season. The icebergs themselves were scenery enough though, prettily tinted blue thanks to the overcast weather. The boat ride was annotated by an informative local guide who managed to do his entire twenty-minute presentation clutching a chunk of glacial ice the size of a football without feeling the cold. They breed them tough out here.

Southern Iceland: A True Camping Experience

Numbed from the stunning experience as much as the weather, we got back in the car and retreated to Kirkjubærklaustur. Given that we were all now soaked to the skin, and sans change of dry clothes, the prospect of camping was less than thrilling. Needless to say, we were regretting our earlier arrogance. Waving our friends goodbye as they headed for the warmth of their cabin, we crawled sheepishly through the town in our 4WD looking for room at the inn.

People were sympathetic, but unable to help. And so we headed for the local campground, our only alternative to sleeping in the car. One very soggy hour later we had erected our two tents. We braced ourselves for a wild old night, comforted only by the fact that Icelandic campgrounds are as well appointed as many hotels, with hot showers, drying rooms and internet connection all part of the measly 2000ISK fee. While my two companions found sleeping in the howling weather difficult, it lulled me straight to sleep. I awoke at 9am to find my other half proferring a steaming cup of truckstop tea through the zipper door. A hot shower and a muesli bar later, we hit the road.

The skies were all rained out and it was nothing but rainbows from Kirkjubærklaustur to Seljavellalaug, my favourite hidden hot pool (see blog on Getting Soaked in Iceland) where we stopped for a reviving dip. Pressing on to Hvolsvöllur, we stopped at Eldstó Café for another warming Kjötsúpa then happily headed for home. Stumbling through the door by dinner time we had just enough energy left for a bite to eat and an early night. I confess at this point that some of our earlier smugness had returned.

Who says you can’t traverse a country in a day with little more than an esky full of snacks and a tank full of petrol.

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Iceland tours and things to do in Iceland, including Day trips & Excursions from Reykjavik, as well as Blue Lagoon tours and hot springs trips to Reykjavik Geysirs.