Suggested Itineraries

Uluru from a helicopter, Ayers Rock

The iconic Australian Outback - kangaroos, the Red Centre, akubra’s, four-wheel drives, Ayers Rock (Uluru). I always thought that it was something I would do when I “had more time”. But whether it’s 2 or 3 days out of your trip to Australia, or a long weekend from Sydney for me, this is an exhilarating side trip which can be squeezed into any holiday.

Uluru is a stunning natural wonder, a World Heritage-listed site with strong cultural and spiritual significance. It is both physically and metaphorically the center of Australia. It is a 348m high, 10 km circumference, bright red sandstone rock - that is one really big rock! The rock has a high iron content, which means it rusts , which is why Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the sandy earth all around is really red - and also why it is known throughout Australia as the Red Center.

Now let’s get one question out of the way first - is it Ayers Rock or is it Uluru? Ayers Rock is the name of the tourist village located just outside the national park, where everyone stays. It is also the name that was given to the rock in 1873 and which lasted for a bit more than 100 years. In 1985, ownership of the Uluru area was restored to the local Anangu people, and the rock reverted to the name it had had for at least 10,000 years: Uluru.

Top 10 Things to Do in Ayers Rock

Here are my favorite things to do while staying in Ayers Rock:

1. Sunrise walk around Uluru - this is a double hitter, Uluru turns its brightest and deepest reds at sunrise and sunset, seeing that happening up close while walking the 10 km track around the base, hearing the stories and seeing sacred sites, canyons, watering holes and rock art, is magical. The picnic breakfast along the way was pretty good too. And don’t be scared of doing this one, it’s an absolutely flat walk, I did it with other visitors aged from 5 to 70+, who all had no problem. If you really don’t fancy that, you can still get the highlights on a bus tour with short guided walks to rock art and waterholes.

Sounds of Silence Dinner, Ayers Rock

2. Sounds of Silence dinner - champagne and canapés on top of a dune watching the sun set over both Uluru and Kata Tjuta, followed by a beautiful candlelit dinner served under the stars, haunting Didgeridoo live performance, a guided tour of the night sky above us and the chance to view through telescopes (I saw Saturn’s rings!), while making new friends at convivial tables of eight.
3. Kata Tjuta (the Olga’s). Meaning “many heads”. Kata Tjuta is what you would get if you broke Uluru into 38 pieces (which is a very loose translation of how it was formed around the same time that Uluru was formed!) Also a beautiful red, there are lookouts where you can view Kata Tjuta from different angles, and a lovely walk up through Walpa Gorge. Also a popular sunrise and sunset watching spot.

4. Mt Connor Outback Safari Tour - Mt Connor is the unknown “other” rock - about 80km east of Uluru, it is the same height, twice the circumference, shaped like a “table top” mountain, older than Uluru, and red, but not as red. It’s not well known as it is part of a huge private property, the Curtain Springs cattle station, which you explore by four wheel drive to experience a salt lake, kangaroos, camels, and the outback landscape, finished off with a home cooked homestead dinner.

5. Helicopter flight over Uluru and Kata Tjuta - 30 minutes of the best view in the house, to see these monoliths from every angle and also see them in the scale of the vast surrounding desert. And the excitement of a helicopter ride at the same time.

6. Night Sky show at Ayers Rock observatory - unless you live in rural Africa (or outback Australia), you have probably never seen the stars in the night sky as clearly as this. Entertaining and enjoyable.

7. Aboriginal tours, at different times of the day around Uluru, an aboriginal guide will take you on a walking tour, allow you to share their culture, explaining how they see the landscape of Uluru and teaching you bush skills, and telling you of their ‘Tjukurpa’ or Dreamtime.

Mt Connor, on an Outback safari

8. Aboriginal Dot Painting Workshop - bring out the inner artist in yourself, while learning of the cultural significance of this style.

9. if you have the extra time, take a 2 day tour to Kings Canyon and Alice Springs as well as exploring Uluru.

10. And this is where I get back to my opening idea of seeing the Red Centre in 2 to 3 days - use the 24 hour or 48 hour Uluru Eco-Pass plus Sounds of Silence Dinner. If you use the 24-hour pass, and you are short on time, you can literally do it in a weekend - fly in Saturday morning, do No. 3 Kata Tjuta in the afternoon, No. 2 Sounds of Silence Dinner in the evening, No 1 Uluru sunrise walk on Sunday morning, and fly back to the East Coast Sunday afternoon.

I did the 48 hour pass, which meant I did the above, and then No. 4 the Mt Connor Safari on Sunday afternoon, and still had time to fit in No 5, the helicopter flight on Monday morning (this was a separate booking, not part of the 48 hour eco-pass) before heading home Monday afternoon.

That might sound a little rushed but it wasn’t, the pace was gentle and I felt I had plenty of time to experience each activity (although it didn’t leave a whole lot of time for sleeping). And if you have more time, you can split the activities on the pass over more days if you want to.

* * * * *

One final thing, you may have noticed I haven’t listed climbing Uluru as one of my suggestions of things to do. When the park was handed back to the local aboriginal owners in 1985, about 90% of all visitors to Uluru would climb the rock. The government was concerned that if this was stopped, the park wouldn’t receive enough income from tourists to pay the costs of running and maintaining the national park.

Therefore as a part of the agreement to hand back the land, the government included a condition that the rock climb must be allowed to continue until such time as less than 20% of all visitors are climbing it. Already less than 30% of visitors now climb it. There is hope that within the next 5 years the numbers will drop below 20% and the Traditional Owners will be able to close the climb.

What visitors call the climb is the traditional route taken by ancestral Mala men upon their arrival at Uluru. It has great spiritual significance to the traditional owners, and they would prefer that, as a guest on Anangu land, you will choose to respect their law and culture by not climbing. Or as Kinmanara, a Traditional Owner, expresses it: “That’s a really important sacred thing that you are climbing…You shouldn’t climb. it’s not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything. And maybe that makes you a bit sad. But anyway that’s what we have to say.”

So as the Anangu say: “listen to what we say, then make up your own mind”.

–Vicki Potts

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours to Ayers Rock (Uluru), from outdoor activities at Ayers Rock to Ayers Rock helicopter tours.

Traveling further afield from Amsterdam? You can try the well-known tourist destinations in Belgium like Bruges and Ghent, or Antwerp and Brussels. Yet there are several options for quicker day trips within the Netherlands, whether your tastes lean towards modern urbanism or pastoral tulip fields.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Rotterdam

Cube houses in Rotterdam

Rotterdam, less than 90 minutes by train from Amsterdam, is the largest port in Europe. The massive waterfront is worth a look, and boat tours are available (9.25 Euro for adults from the company Spido). The strategic harbor made the city a target of World War II bombing campaigns, thus nearly completely destroying the city center. What resulted was Rotterdam’s famous modern and experimental architecture on a scale not found in other major Dutch cities (or anywhere else for that matter).

The innovative 2,600-foot Erasmus Bridge, nicknamed ‘The Swan’, links the northern and southern sides of the city. The Cube Houses, are nearly impossible to describe (think a normal building tilted 45 degrees), but a definite must see in the city center. The quirky Kunsthal (translates as ‘art hall’) combines rotating exhibits of art, photography and fashion in a building designed by renowned Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. The Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (art, including Brueghel, Magritte and Dali) and Netherlands Architecture Institute are both located on the Museumpark, and are notable.

Located elsewhere are the Maritime Museum and Wereldmuseum (ethnographic art from throughout the world), they are also recommended. Rotterdam is thoroughly diverse with immigrants flowing from former Dutch colonies in Suriname and Indonesia, as well as émigrés from Morocco and Turkey. In January the city hosts the International Film Festival Rotterdam, and in July the North Sea Jazz Festival.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Utrecht

Utrecht, the Netherlands’ fourth-largest city and home to its largest university, is about 30 minutes by train from Amsterdam Centraal Station. It is also historically a Dutch religious center. The Dom Tower is a 368-foot church tower in the city center, from the top of which Amsterdam is visible on a clear day. A 17th-century storm destroyed part of the church while still under construction, and now the tower stands separated from the rest of the church. The city center alternates between medieval grandeur and a sort-of outdoor shopping mall.

Notable are the recessed cafes and restaurants that line canals (especially the Oudegracht) with the street level above. This is unique from canals in Amsterdam, which sit below the streetscape without the lower platforms lining their banks. There are several museums in Utrecht, but try to time a visit with the frequently free (or cheap) cultural happenings sponsored by the city, usually on Sundays. The Rietvald Schroder House is dates from 1924 and represents the De Stijl movement of art and architecture. It now houses a museum and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visits to the house are possible Thursday through Sunday, reservations are recommended, and shuttles run from Utrecht’s Centraal Museum.

Amsterdam Day Trips: The Hague

The Hague (or in Dutch, Den Haag) is about one hour by train from Amsterdam. It feels different than either Amsterdam or Utrecht, notably because of its few canals, wider streets and more open layout. It is the permanent home of both the International Criminal Court (ICC, which prosecutes individuals accused of war crimes for example) and the International Court of Justice (ICJ, which settles disputes between United Nations member states), and the location of Dutch parliament. Both courts are available for visits.

The ICJ is housed in the Peace Palace, built in the early 20th century with financing provided by Andrew Carnegie. In the ICC’s modern building one can watch a war crimes trial from a viewing box. Queen Beatrix resides in the Paleis Huis ten Bosch in a forest just outside the city. All international embassies are in The Hague, giving the city an orderly, diplomatic and bureaucratic feel. The city is home to the M.C. Escher Museum, displaying the labors of the well known graphic artist whose twisted and thought-provoking works are frequently featured in dorm-room posters the world over (7.50 Euro admission for adults).

Amsterdam Day Trips: A taste of the countryside

Cycling is the Dutch way to travel and the simplest excursion is to rent a bike, take the train 15 minutes west to Haarlem and then cycle through town, eventually meandering into the country side. Just west of Haarlem is Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, about 15 square miles of forest, dunes and beach. Biking around the country inevitably brings you into small rural villages which can be a treat in their own right.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Keukenhof Tulip Gardens

Tulips in Spring

In the spring, the tulip fields west of Amsterdam are a must see. Keukenhof, near the town of Lisse, is the largest flower garden in the world. It is literally a massive park (run by the Dutch flower industry with an industrial sized admissions charge, but impressive enough) that is open to the public only from the end of March through mid-May.

Buses travel to the site from nearby towns of Haarlem and Leiden, which are accessed by train from Amsterdam. Freelance touring of tulip fields on bike is also an option. In fact a ride through the country side anywhere between the cities of Haarlem and Leiden should bring you into a colorful palette of flowers. Stripes of tulips in all colors give the fields a surreal feeling. Again, the flowers only bloom seasonally, so spring is the best/only time to visit.

The same region in the summer is beach territory. In fact the area encompassing the tulip fields and coastline is colloquially called Duin en Bollenststreek (the Dune and Bulb Region). Large sand dunes and beaches run along the entirety of the coast. The best known resort area is Noordwijk aan Zee. Take a train from Amsterdam to Leiden or Voorhout for an easy connection.

Amsterdam Day Trips: Windmills

And if it is windmills you seek look no further than Zaanse Schans, about 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam. The area is something of an outdoor museum, with old homes, shops and most importantly, traditional windmills. The first Albert Heign is here (a Dutch supermarket chain, this landmark would be comparable to say the first McDonald’s or Hershey factory, but Dutch-ified).

–Benjamin Cunningham

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Amsterdam tours & things to do, from Amsterdam day trips to canal cruises.

The Disillusioned Dubliner isn’t usually one for giving romantic advice, but here’s a pearl of wisdom for all you lonely hearts out there: Get yourself a lover from somewhere else.

Katie Lincoln comes from a small fishing village (I know every village says that, but you can take my word for it, people fish there) called Ardmore on the south coast of County Waterford, not far from the Cork border. It’s not a place that features in most travel books. In fact the Fodor’s Ireland book I co-write actually excluded it all together - a fact I’m about to remedy. But as far as the DD is concerned Ardmore is a little gem.

West Gable of St Declan’s Cathedral, Ardmore

The DD looks three key things about any ‘tourist’ (why am I so reluctant to be associated with that word? It’s not a disease?) place he visits.

1. Openness: I like places that you can roam around at your leisure that allow unmonitored access to their sights.
2. Freeness: I don’t like the idea of paying for something that is either a natural or a public treasure. Or maybe I just don’t like to pay for anything.
3. Emptiness. I like a place that’s not too busy. I might be a ‘tourist’ but I don’t need to be bumping into too many more of the damned critters.
4. Guinness: There better be a good place to get a pint.

Ardmore is four for four.

Declan to Kevin: I was here first

Glendalough, the 6th century monastic settlement in the Wicklow Mountains, is one of the most popular visitor attractions in Ireland. They have a visitor centre (with a small charge) and lines of eager pilgrims waiting to see the sights.

One hundred years before Saint Kevin first had his notion to run off to the wilds of Glendalough, the intrepid Saint Declan established the oldest Christian settlement in Ireland in - you’ve guessed it - Ardmore, where he lived in the period 350-450 AD (yes, he even beat Saint Patrick to the punch). I can safely say very few Irish people know this fact, and so the pilgrims are shockingly few that visit such wonders as Declan’s original Holy Well; the 8th-century Oratory located in the ancient graveyard; the beautifully proportioned 12th-century round tower; and, most spectacular of all, the mysterious, entrancing carved figures on the west gable of St. Declan’s Cathedral.

All these wonders and not a visitor centre or ticket booth in sight. You are free to wander as you please (you are expected to show due respect to the sights, of course) and absorb the very first glimmers of Christianity in Celtic Ireland.

The Disillusioned Dubliner & Moll head to Goat Island, Ardmore

But if Ardmore was just an early Christian Disneyland minus the security, DD wouldn’t be getting so excited about the place. It is also set in one of the most physically impressive parts of the country.

Located on a beach itself, a horde of better, emptier, sandy beaches are located nearby, with the best of them being the secluded and beautifully named Goat Island (not an island and not a goat in sight). The short walks to these beaches along the small country roads and paths set you up nicely for a brisk (translate ‘brisk’ as ‘freezing cold’) but wonderfully exhilarating dip in the Irish Sea.

Alternatively the wonderful Cliff Walk around the back of the town takes you along some seriously sheer cliffs (great for spotting birds and seals and even a few rumoured whales) with amazing views out back across the bay. Katie Lincoln’s mother informed me she was walking this path late one summers night - it was actually midsummer’s night - when she heard a strange beating noise in a field nearby. She went over and what she saw was a badger and her cubs playing some kind of running and jumping game. She spent 20 minutes watching them before heading on your way. Just in case this doesn’t impress you, badgers are notoriously shy and a sighting is a rare threat. Grandmother Lincoln, who has lived in the area all her long life, emphasized the fact by letting me know she had never managed to see a badger in the flesh.

Ireland on the cheap, with fiddling farmers

Reilly’s: One of the great bars

The local beach do bring summer time holiday makers from nearby Cork and you’ll see their neat little caravans parked in camp site not far from town.

But the DD - who was raised on two-week caravan holidays himself - finds something refreshing and warm about these good value, do-it-yourself holiday makers refusing to be trapped by the monster that is ‘Rip-Off’ Ireland.

That’s another positive about Ardmore, you can do it on the cheap.

And then there is Reilly’s. It only opens two nights a week - the owner just couldn’t be arsed bothering the other five - but it still has to be one of the finest pubs in… well anywhere. On Tuesdays its ‘Fiddling Farmers’ when locals from the town and surrounding countryside come along and sing a song, recite a poem, play a tune or whatever.

Card players in Reilly’s

The same men (and an occasional woman) have been coming for years and I’m told they always sing the same song. If you decide to go along a try your luck just be careful you not stepping on any toes by stealing another man’s anthem.

On Fridays it’s cards night. The game is Forty Five and you won’t be asked to play as the same bunch of farmers and locals have played the game for years ( I suppose a funeral or two must usher in some new blood?).

But just sit down with on of the top class pints of Guinness, pass a little time admiring the wild collection of radical political posters and pamphlets that adorn the walls, and watch these skilled and wily card sharks as they try to destroy each other without once dropping the smile from their face. And great faces they are, full of expression and smarts and worth watching for the dramatic changes as the fortune of the cards rises and falls.

Anto? He’s so totally D4

Here’s a warning, bring your thick skin. The owner, Michael Reilly, has a sharp tongue on him and he just might turn it on you with a searing question or two. Keep your politics to yourself unless you enjoy a good old fashioned disagreement - on second thoughts speak freely and enjoy the fun. He gave the DD one look (remember I’m an outsider going out with a local girl) and muttered the word ‘Gonzaga’ under his breath. Gonzaga is a very posh and expensive boarding school where the privileged of Dublin send their kids. I was half flattered, half enraged that he could possibly mistake my working-class, Northside roots for some spoilt, Dublin 4 brat. I must be doing my hair wrong?

The town also happens to the be the starting point for St. Declan’s Way, a long distance (three days in total but you can do a short section of it) pilgrim’s walk that ends up at the majestic Rock of Cashel.

And that’s Ardmore. Try keep it to youself.

–Anto Howard

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s things to do in Ireland, Dublin tours, and day tours to Glendalough and Wicklow.

So the south of France, the Cote d’Azur. I know what you’re thinking: expensive, clichéd. Think again.

I agreed to go there for a week’s holiday with a friend mainly because I’d never been and it’s one of those famous places that’s in all the books and movies and gossip magazines. Oh, and because I really like travelling with her. But as the time grew closer, I began to worry about money and, quite honestly, the standard of my wardrobe. Hey, Brad and Angelina are there growing their latest baby; this is no shabby shorts and functional-sandals beach holiday.

The south of France / Cote d’Azur / French Riviera. Call it what you like, it’s all beautiful.

How wrong I was. I discovered that the south of France is one of the most beautiful places on earth, plus it’s relaxed, fun, affordable and very, very welcoming.

Nice is nice, even via Toulon

We flew into Toulon Airport on a cheap Ryanair flight from London. And sometimes what you gain on the airfare, you lose on time and the cost of all the other transfers. It’s a small airport but the handiest if you’re staying in St Tropez (my advice: don’t unless you are very wealthy) but not so good if you’re staying further down the coast, which we were. We had to do the airport bus into Toulon itself, which took half an hour or so. It took us to the station from which we needed to catch a train to Nice, where we had booked an apartment for the week. Lesson learned: Nice has its own airport and easyJet flies there cheaply.

But the trains to Nice were fairly regular and took about two hours give or take. It was lovely to see all the beautiful countryside and begin to fully appreciate the mountainous and coastal glory that is the Cote d’Azur, and pass through legendary towns like Antibes and Cannes. And the train had my favourite dogbox configuration so we ended up chatting to a charming French man in our compartment who worked in Monaco and offered to show us around there a few days later. He gave us his card and we promised to call. Unfortunately, soon after we got off the train in Nice, he texted my friend having found her luggage tag on the floor – not such a good sign… we didn’t call.

Nice is nicer with a good apartment

Looking over Nice. That water is soooo blue.

Our apartment was fantastic (booked via nicepebbles.com). Much better than staying at a hotel because we had space and privacy and could self-cater, which is not only a must in a town with such great bakeries and cheeses etc, but is also cheaper.

The apartment was right in the heart of the old town but very modern. We had the full experience of waking to the sound of calling French voices (usually from the garbage men with their noisy truck at 6 am which took some of the romance out of it!), then heading down to the local bakery for the BEST croissants and baguettes I have truly ever tasted (Artisan Boulanger, Rue du Marene). These things were addictive and the bread so light I’m sure there was no danger of putting on weight…

We got into the habit of buying a baguette every morning and making up cheese and salad rolls to take on our daily excursions. That sounds so dull but when the cheese is that good and the supermarket is full of wonderful things like pear confit and fig puree to accompany your cheese, it becomes heavenly. I actually brought small jars of these things home with me. I’m sure the French would laugh at the idea – like taking their equivalent of peanut butter probably, but one country’s commonplaces are this traveller’s joy.

Yet Nice is nicest 1 euro at a time

The best bit of advice we were given is that all the regional buses in this part of the world now cost 1euro per trip. So it was really affordable to explore the whole coast. The bus terminal is just on the edge of old town. Armed with baguettes, and comfortable shoes (I had to buy some flat shoes having only taken heels in anticipation of a life of glamour), most mornings found us hopping on a bus to somewhere fabulous. Actually, that’s a little untrue – by the time we’d eaten croissants and had a bit of time exploring Nice’s old town, walking along the beachfront or up the hill (known as the Chateau) for coffee with a view, we usually didn’t make a start on our day trips until early afternoon.

The best thing about catching buses was seeing the landscape and the houses. And wow, is the water blue in that part of the world! Cote d’Azur is no lie – it is the bluest water I have ever seen.

Day trip to Eze

First we visited Eze, a gorgeous fortified, medieval hilltop town perched high about the sea. It is all winding, narrow streets and steps (no cars), and stone houses. Right up the top is a wonderful cactus garden, well worth the entry fee (about 5 euros I remember), and including a contemplation garden of large wooden recliners where you can lie and stare straight down along the coast – divine! From there we spied umbrellas on a terrace and felt the lure of a drink with the best view in the world.

Touring Eze from Nice

We wound our way back through Eze and found the Chateau Eza Hotel. It only has about 10 rooms and we were able to have a hot chocolate on the terrace. Around us people sipped champagne attended to by uniformed waiters, but hot chocolate was more our budget and it was very good, presented in a white pot and delicious. And the view… worth the price (which was less outlandish than it could have been). You don’t need to be wealthy to live the life of the famous and glamorous, even if just for a moment.

The trip back was less charming – a trick to learn is that the last buses are often quite early – about 7.15pm in this case, and don’t miss it or you are stuck. Taxis are few and far between and quite expensive.

Another trick when visiting Eze (and you Absolutely Must!) is to catch the right bus. Don’t get the Eze en Mer (or something like that) – it will take you to the part of the town next to the water, at the bottom on the hill. Then you have an hour or more walk straight up the hill on a stony track favoured by the philosopher Nietzsche. Unless you are part mountain goat, I don’t recommend it. We lucked out by getting on the bus to Eze itself – kindly timetables not good planning. (You can also book a tour to Eze and Monaco from Nice over on the Viator website.)

Day trip to Antibes & Monaco

Another place we visited was Antibes, which is a lovely little town. One of our primary reasons for going there was the Picasso Museum – he spent a lot of time painting there. Unfortunately it was closed for renovation – and had been for two years! The pitfalls of buying old guidebooks secondhand! Still the town was worth a visit and I got some great presents for friends. Oh and the museum reopens later this year. Missed it by that much…

We also did the obligatory tour to Monaco. This place of legend lured us with promises of fast cars and fabulous fashion. Accordingly we put on our prettiest dresses and favourite shoes, mounted our budget bus and headed to the place fabled to change lives. Well, it did. I hated it so much I had my first cigarette in years! Yep, don’t go there.

I think part of the issue was that they were setting up for this year’s Grand Prix so it was noisy and dusty and difficult to walk around. I was also amazed by just what a concrete jungle it is. Apartment buildings jumbled on top of one another and nothing pretty to be seen in any direction. Another problem was no local knowledge – such a shame the man from the train failed us. We toured the royal castle – worth it for the Mills and Boon style 1980s portrait of Princess Grace and family, had an awful hot chocolate, got confused at the casino but drank expensive Cosmopolitans to numb the shame, then caught the bus back to our beloved Nice for a great dinner and to wonder why we ever left.

Eating & Drinking in Nice

A couple of recommendations for dinner in Nice: In the marketplace just back from the beach front there are lots of seafood restaurants and the food looks wonderful. The prices also filled us with wonder. Instead I had a delicious plate of moule (mussels) at the much cheaper, more local Socca café. (on a corner in Rue Mascoina). Communal benches on the street, a window you order from, a simple menu and some of the most delicious things you’ve tasted. Try the pissaladier – the local onion, olive and anchovy pizza – yum!

Also go to Oliviera. On the Rue du Collet, this little restaurant specialises in olive oils and with each course the fabulous owner/host/enthusiast brings you a different oil to taste. They sell them too (naturally) but the large size of the bottle was a bit of a disincentive.

Another favourite for local food and atmosphere was a café called Gesu in Rue de Gesu opposite the church – fabulous friendly service and the young boys at the next table even bought us Cognacs. Follow it up with one of 90 or so flavours of ice-cream from Fennocio – I recommend the violet, or the rose, or the ginger, or the cinnamon…

–Philippa Burne

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in the French Riviera, from things to do in Nice to day trips from Cannes.

Editor’s note: Good news! The mystery of Stonehenge has been solved. No kidding, apparently it’s a cemetery. Always has been, too. Read more here in the SF Chronicle.

Stonehenge is one of the most famous ancient monuments in the world, but what do we really know about it? Anyone intending to visit Stonehenge will be confronted by a huge amount of literature. How do you know where to begin?

You’re in luck. Thames & Hudson is about to release in May a new account of Stonehenge aimed at a wider audience than just the PhD archaeological community. It’s called Solving Stonehenge, by Anthony Johnson. Now I’m no archaeologist, but I think this book will generate a huge amount of discussion.

The author (a professional archaeological surveyor) spent fives years at his computer analyzing the earthwork and stone circles, sifting through myths, legends and misconceptions about Stonehenge.

Central to the book is a a carefully measured survey by John Wood, the architect of Bath, completed in 1740 before several of the stones fell; although largely overlooked by Stonehenge scholars, this remains the most important plan of Stonehenge ever made.

Stonehenge Spoiler Alert: Everybody dies in the end

Locked within the symmetry of the stones and buried below ground lie the clues to the precise formulae which determined their numbers, spacing and relationships.

Stonehenge was not just the work of skilled engineers, nor primarily astronomical in its concept, but built to a premeditated design which was carefully planned and set out by prehistoric surveyors who had a sophisticated understanding of geometry, practical mathematics and symmetry.

So what does it all mean? I am no archaeologist, and I am no spoiler. The book reads a little like a detective novel, so I am not going to spoil the ending (everybody dies and the whole thing becomes a ruin).

Read it for yourself before taking a trip to Stonehenge.

–Ken Frohling

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s London tours & things to do from day tours to Stonehenge to Buckingham Palace and everything in between.

I had just completed my sophomore year in college, and made up my mind to skip the fall term. For some time I had been feeling trapped in California, and I strongly suspected the entire state was a bland fantasyland compared with the rest of the country. Having filled my head with Kerouac and photographs by Robert Frank, I was pie-eyed for America, or some rapidly disappearing version of it.

I told everyone who cared to listen I was off to get a “real” education, and hitched a ride with a Deadhead named Timmy. (Name changed to protect the innocent, etc., etc.) Timmy was driving his rattle-trap VW bus across the country. For both of us it was a rite of passage, but by the time we reached the Mississippi River it was painfully clear our passages were completely divergent and incompatible.

Tom on the mic at Sun Studio

I was no fan of the Dead, or of any other music from circa 1965-70 (with a few exceptions). I was stuck on times before my own time, urged on by propulsive rhythm and blues, big-hearted soul, and reverberating rockabilly numbers. Through Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Kansas, and Missouri, Timmy and I drove ’round the clock, alternating stints at the wheel while the other caught Z’s in the wagon’s hippie nest. He who drove ruled the tape deck. Occasionally we found ourselves awake at the same time, each grumbling about the other’s taste in music. At these times I tried to be civil, popping in tapes of Tom Waits and pre-electric Bob Dylan, which Timmy and I found mutually acceptable. But as long as he was in charge, he insisted on a strict diet of rinky dink vagabond rock. (To quote Waits: “Never drive a car when you’re dead.”)

Along the highway in Arkansas, a bright pink billboard for Graceland got my heart a-thumpin’ for Memphis, and even though Timmy was driving, I pushed the eject button right in the middle of “Truckin’” and popped in Chuck Berry’s “Memphis, Tennessee.” Such a sad and beautiful song. Timmy cursed a blue streak all the way across the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge, and seeing we still had half a tank of gas, pronounced he was good for another 200 miles. We didn’t stop until we were halfway through Mississippi. That was my first, tragically short glimpse of Memphis. I hopped off Timmy’s bus in New Orleans and that was the last I saw of him.

Yearning for Memphis

But Memphis had got its hooks into me, and I’ve been back three or four times since. I’m still crazy about mid-20th century American music. And every now and then, at my home in California, glands in my mouth will inexplicably twitch for Memphis barbecue. There are other compelling reasons to visit the city – seeing the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. King died, makes my spine tingle – but for me, it’s really just about the meat and the music.

In early April, I passed through town on my way from New Orleans to Chicago. I had a spare day in Memphis – a full day – beginning with a short drive up from Clarksdale, Mississippi, and ending with the arrival of Amtrak’s City of New Orleans, which would deliver me out of the South shortly before midnight. I love these sorts of challenges. (I did the same thing in Rome, some years back, which turned into the inevitable Felliniesque hallucination.) It’s like packing a suitcase, or preparing a burrito. Somehow, by hook or crook, you’ll get in all that needs to be got in.

It was a Saturday morning when I reached town. Along East McLemore Avenue people were mowing lawns and washing cars. In Memphis style, art and signs were hand-painted on the sides and windows of beauty parlors. A woman in curlers and flip-flops stepped out of one such shop and made a beeline for a liquor store. Just then, I spied the Stax Museum.

Soulsville, USA

The first time I laid eyes on Stax – aka “Soulsville, USA” – my heart sank a bit as I recognized it for a mere replica. The converted movie theater where Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, and Wilson Pickett recorded their hits of the 1960s had been demolished and rebuilt in gleaming, retro fashion. Retro has never been my thing. I’m after the old, the faded, the left-for-dead. But I quickly got over it. You get used to such compromises when you’re into long-gone cultures. Museums always leave me a little underwhelmed. In the worst instances, they’re as lifeless and depressing as morgues. Old buildings frozen forever in a particular point in time can be interesting. The best museums are curiosity shops filled with unexpected gems that no one got around to melting down or throwing away.

Stax could be much better than it is, but it defies the odds in numerous ways. Firstly, they have installed tinny speakers on the lamp posts in the parking lot, which blare out a steady stream of Stax hits – a brilliant stroke. Inside, the museum offers a very contemporary multi-media blitz that does its best to make you feel like you’re walking through a Ken Burns documentary. It tells a compelling, two-part story (to summarize: early soul music drew black kids and white kids together during segregated times; MLK’s assassination in ‘68 hit like a sledgehammer, creating a widening crevasse of distrust). It beats watching a DVD at home, thanks to a barage of original artifacts presented behind glass. The only bonafide showstopper is Isaac Hayes’ sky-blue 1972 Cadillac El Dorado, with gold trim and shag carpeting. Mr. Hayes’ peacock garb also warrants long, admiring pauses.

Cozy Corner: Memphis BBQ like no other

Sun Studio

While Graceland is a garish cathedral, Sun Studio is a saintly shrine. (Taking the concept a bit further, the white-washed shotgun house in Tupelo, Mississippi, is a manger.) Among the Lunatic Majority that convenes in Memphis every August, to commemorate the anniversary of Elvis’ death, there is a fringe group that will tell you he made his best recordings in Sam Phillips’ one-room studio ¬– and that the King’s career went down the toilet as soon as he signed with RCA. I’ll admit I sympathize somewhat with this view. Elvis’ Sun Sessions have a magical quality to them, whereas the RCA period is mostly just interesting. (Note: there are guided tours of the Sun Studio over on the Viator site.)

All Sun has to offer is a one room and a satchel full of stories, but I’ve been back more than once for it. On this recent visit, my eager anticipation must have showed, because the hipster chick working the gift shop register had me pegged as a loser when I asked the price of a Jackie Brenston poster. She took great pains to look bored with the job, and I’ll admit I enjoyed her performance. Firstly, I know I’m dork when it comes to this stuff; secondly, too many tourist traps make the mistake of hiring overly enthusiastic staff who try to coax you into having a good time. I prefer to be sneered at as a sucker. I know what I’m after. I’ll have my own damn good time.

The beauty of Sun is that it has been left alone all these years. In spots, the acoustic tiles are peeling off the ceiling, and the room is cluttered with musical instruments and recording equipment - none of it behind glass. It continues to moonlight as an actual recording studio, and the lack of upkeep is due to an obsessive fear of tampering with that signature Sun sound. Of course, Sun isn’t all about Elvis. Howlin’ Wolf, Ike Turner, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, and numerous others all made music history here. Singers have been using the same boxy, chrome microphone since the early 1950s, and the tour guides aren’t bothered when guests step up to it for a few bars of “Milk Cow Blues.”

A few blocks from Sun is a barbecue joint called Cozy Corner, to which I retreated for a plate of the finest ribs in the universe. When I finished I was left with a paper plate covered with bones and crumpled napkins. And I felt about as bloated as Elvis, circa 1975.

A Loosely Related Anecdote

Elvis’ grave at Graceland

About half a decade ago, my wife, Fawn, called from her office to tell me she had been surfing the web and came across a highly interesting real estate listing. Fawn harbored fantasies of quitting her job and moving to the sticks where we wouldn’t have to work or pay any rent. However, this time, it was no ordinary shack in the woods she’d found. It was Johnny Cash’s country cabin, near Nashville. It was listed as a ‘fixer’, on several wooded acres, for around $250,000. The real estate boom hadn’t yet reached Tennessee.

Fawn: “We can pay off the mortgage with your measly writer’s income, and I can grow corn and distill liquor to cover the rest of our needs.”

God love her, she was serious. In a flash, I turned suddenly responsible (usually, she’s the grown-up one), thinking of our kids and careers, and said I didn’t like the idea. I also had visions of walking in Johnny Cash’s footsteps, sitting on his couch, wearing black, dropping my voice a few octaves, telling Fawn how well I liked her when she wore her hair piled high above her head. I knew I would be trapped in some sort of weird obsession for the rest of my life if we moved into JC’s country shack, and it scared me some.

I’m not proud of myself as I recall this incident. But you live, you learn.

Graceland

The point I’m getting at is, if the opportunity ever arises to live in Graceland – not to own it, just to move in – I’ll be ready. I won’t need a moving van, or even a suitcase. I’ll shoot pool in the Bedoin billiards room, discharge firearms at the TV sets, woo my wife in the jungle room, try on the myriad sequined suits and capes, and do cannon-balls in the kidney-shaped pool (just a few paces from the graveyard; population 3). I’ll even sneak past the cordoned off stairway for a peak at the bathroom, where Elvis met his maker more than three decades ago. For me, a place only gets five stars if I want to move in. Graceland is that good.

People always ask me if Graceland is worth visiting. Here’s what I usually tell them: If you are meant to see it, you will know.

–Tom Downs

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Memphis tours & things to do, from a guided tour of Sun Studio to the Elvis Presley in Memphis music tour.

Next Stop: Ancient Rome

Most visitors to Rome want to scratch beneath the surface of the Roman Empire, probably the most important historical aspect of Rome. That’s why an itinerary exploring Rome’s ancient past is something that should be a part of every visit to Rome. Here are a few of ancient Rome’s essential highlights.

Colosseo - The Colosseum

Rome’s most recognizable monument, the Roman Colosseum is technically known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, inaugurated in the year 80 AD. The infamous gladiator battles that the Colosseum is famous for were hosted here up until 435 AD. In modern-day Rome, the road leading up to the Colosseum is used to host a free outdoor concert in the summer, with musicians such as Simon & Garfunkel or Paul McCartney drawing crowds of around a million people. Viator links: Tours to the Colosseum, Roman Gladiator School

Domus Aurea - Nero’s Golden House

Built by the Emperor Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 AD, this is a well-preserved example of ancient Roman architecture. Lavish interior decoration included gold leaf, ivory veneer and ceilings covered with semi-precious stones. The emperor’s palace was also rich with frescoes in the grotesque style that inspired Renaissance artists like Raphael and Michelangelo.

Ostia Antica - Ancient Rome’s port city

About a half hour train ride outside of Rome, Ostia Antica is the site of ancient Rome’s harbor and was the hub of commerce during the period. On a walk through Ostia Antica one can still see examples of daily life in ancient Rome ranging from mosaics that decorated the market to public toilets. The area of Ostia Antica is three times as large as Pompeii, so it’s best to bring comfortable walking shoes. Viator link: Half-day tour to Ostia Antica

Appia Antica & the Catacombs

Ancient Rome’s most famous road, the Appia Antica remains an excellent example of the ancient Roman style of building roads (e.g., in a straight line). While walking the Appia Antica, or perhaps riding a bike over the rough stones, you can still see the tracks left by carts that used the road for transport in ancient times. Ruins of statues and tombs, as well as the original aqueducts, line the street. Along the Appia are also various sites of ancient Roman catacombs, including San Sebastiano and San Callisto. The underground catacomb tours give visitors a look into the burial practices of the first Christians. Viator links: Roman Catacombs & Countryside walking tour, Crypts & Catacomb: The Underside of Rome tour, Christian Rome & Catacombs walking tour

Musei Capitolini - The Capitoline Museums

The Capitoline Museums on Capitol Hill (Campidoglio) are a great way to explore ancient Rome, especially on a rainy day when it’s not practical to be outdoors. Founded in 1471, the museums house many important sculptures and other artifacts that have come from excavations of various sites of ancient Rome. In the Hall of the Faun, you can see the statue of the faun brought from Emperor Hadrian’s villa, while the Hall of Emperors has an impressive collection of busts of Roman emperors from the Imperial Age to the late ancient period. Viator link: Capitoline Museums & Classical Rome walking tour

The Roman Forum

The heart of political and commercial life in ancient Rome, the Foro Romano still has several important archeological artifacts that have survived to this day. There are ruins of several temples as well as arches constructed by various emperors to celebrate triumphs. While many ruins are still visible, in order to fully appreciate the vast history of the Roman Forum, a guided tour is recommended. Viator link: Tours to the Roman Forum

The Colosseum in Rome

The Pantheon

Another of Rome’s most recognizable monuments, the Pantheon was originally used as a temple and was destroyed by fire in 80 A.D.; the structure we see today was commissioned by the Emperor Hadrian and completed in 125 A.D. The famous “oculus” or hole in the ceiling is a constant source of fascination to those who visit, and every year on Pentecost, red rose petals are released down through the oculus by Roman firefighters. The piazza surrounding the Pantheon is one of the major gathering points for tourists in downtown Rome. Viator links: Tours to the Pantheon and the Ancient Rome walking tour (including the Pantheon)

Vatican Necropolis & Scavi Vaticani

Reservations are required through the Vatican’s Excavations Office and often visitors are unable to choose the exact day and time of their visit. But if you can manage to get a ticket to either of these underground tours, it is well worth the work. The Necropolis (Via Triumphalis) tour commenced in October 2006, after three years of preparation. The area was discovered while breaking ground for a parking garage and archeologists have given it Pompeii-like status in the world of ancient cemeteries. The Scavi (Via Cornelia) tour covers excavations that were undertaken to locate the exact place where St Peter’s remains were buried, and above which St Peter’s Basilica was built.

–Shelley Ruelle

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of tours and things to do in Rome, tours to the Vatican and things to do in Italy.

One of America’s oldest cities, Baltimore is often in the shadow of its more flamboyant neighbors: Washington DC, Philadelphia and New York City. But Baltimore hasn’t been nicknamed Charm City without reason - “Bawlmore” as the locals call it is known for its many attractions, its rich ethnic and maritime heritage and its quirky, off-beat residents.

One of the most famous residents and the self-proclaimed Pope of Trash, John Waters put the city on the film map in the early 1970s with movies like Pink Flamingos and Female Trouble. Though these early films had more of a cult (and filth!) following he is probably now best know for Hairspray – the 1988 film, then the Broadway musical and the London musical, and then the 2007 film, part 2, staring John Travolta as Mrs Edna Turnblat.

Christmas at Hampden

A great place to get a taste of Waters’ Baltimore is in Hampden, where much of Hairspray and several other Waters films were shot. Hampden, a city neighborhood of small row homes is known for its unique and colorful residents and is home to Cafe Hon. This kitschy local restaurant is named after the local dialect “Bawlmorese” where you simply add “hon” to the end of every sentence – “How are you doing, hon?”, “Its nice to see you, hon”, etc.

The hub of Hampden is “The Avenue” - 36th street - which lined with galleries and antique shops. Another Hampden must-see is 34th street during the holidays. This one block of homes puts out literally hundreds of thousands of holiday lights and decorations from the tacky to traditional.

But Baltimore is not all off-beat, it has a strong sense of history as well. Baltimore has many historic and restored neighborhoods including Fell’s Point and Mount Vernon. Mount Vernon is a Victorian era neighborhood just north of the Harbor and home to the first Washington Monument. Named after English Quaker William Fell, Fell’s Point was one of the original ports of Baltimore and much of the architecture dates back to the early 1700s. A great (and fun!) way to troll through Fell’s Point’s narrow streets is a Baltimore Segway tour of Fell’s Point. Baltimore was also the birthplace of American railroading with the origin of the B&O Railroad. The B&O Museum now boasts the largest collection of historic rolling stock in the world.

Not far from the historic sites and the new heart of the city is The Inner Harbor. Stop number one for most visitors, this urban renewal project has brought all kinds of life back to the waterfront. It is home to several restored historic ships and to the National Aquarium (if you’re staying in nearby DC, consider a day tour to the aquarium). The Baltimore harbor was also the site where Francis Scott Key wrote what would become the US National Anthem as he watched the British ships bombard Fort McHenry in the War of 1812. The best way to take in all the Harbor sites, historic neighborhoods and museums is a guided Baltimore Sightseeing Trolley Tour.

Baltimore Inner Harbor

A trip to Baltimore would not be complete without a little nightlife – try the Baltimore Symphony, rated one of the best in the US, followed by one of the many pubs or wine bars in Mount Vernon.

A personal favorite is The Brewers Art. Housed in a restored historic mansion, they brew their own Belgium style beers (named curiously Ozzy, Resurrection, Sluggo and Wit Trash) and is a great place to see the quirky Baltimorians – from tattooed hipsters in the smoky front bar to the suburban movers and shakers in the dining room.

Finally a trip to Baltimore is not complete without tasting the local staple – crabs. You can get them almost anywhere and in almost any form – steamed crabs, crab cakes, crab benedict and burritos. A great place to try crabs in Fell’s Point (and a Baltimore institution) is Obrycki’s. There is even a branch in the airport should you need one last fix.

If you really can pull yourself away from Charm City, it is just a 30-minute train ride to Washington DC, or an hour to Philadelphia, or maybe its just time to book an airport transfer and take home your Charm City Memories.

Come back soon to Bawlmore, hon!

-Ken Frohling lives in Baltimore’s Bolton Hill neighborhood

Cairns, Australia

The islands, beaches and rainforests that surround Cairns make it world famous – an essential stop on any trans-Australian itinerary. It’s the most popular base for diving or snorkeling over the magnificent Great Barrier Reef, but you might struggle to fit that in around the bungee jumping, hot-air ballooning, skydiving, fishing, white-water rafting and horse riding. Animal sanctuaries are plentiful, so you’re certain to indulge your koala-cuddling fetish, and there are miles of eco-friendly boardwalks that penetrate deep into the rainforest. We’ve pulled together our Suggested Itineraries in Cairns to make trip planning easier for you. Read on for our highlights.

Day 1: Best of Cairns

Take a full-day tour that combines the best of Cairns, Kuranda and their environs. The breathtaking Skyrail rides high above the rainforest canopy, before a 30-minute helicopter ride to a helipad on the Outer Great Barrier Reef. Maybe you’d prefer an early morning hot air balloon ride that and also takes in the Kuranda Scenic Railway