Suggested Itineraries

I had just completed my sophomore year in college, and made up my mind to skip the fall term. For some time I had been feeling trapped in California, and I strongly suspected the entire state was a bland fantasyland compared with the rest of the country. Having filled my head with Kerouac and photographs by Robert Frank, I was pie-eyed for America, or some rapidly disappearing version of it.

I told everyone who cared to listen I was off to get a “real” education, and hitched a ride with a Deadhead named Timmy. (Name changed to protect the innocent, etc., etc.) Timmy was driving his rattle-trap VW bus across the country. For both of us it was a rite of passage, but by the time we reached the Mississippi River it was painfully clear our passages were completely divergent and incompatible.

Tom on the mic at Sun Studio

I was no fan of the Dead, or of any other music from circa 1965-70 (with a few exceptions). I was stuck on times before my own time, urged on by propulsive rhythm and blues, big-hearted soul, and reverberating rockabilly numbers. Through Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Kansas, and Missouri, Timmy and I drove ’round the clock, alternating stints at the wheel while the other caught Z’s in the wagon’s hippie nest. He who drove ruled the tape deck. Occasionally we found ourselves awake at the same time, each grumbling about the other’s taste in music. At these times I tried to be civil, popping in tapes of Tom Waits and pre-electric Bob Dylan, which Timmy and I found mutually acceptable. But as long as he was in charge, he insisted on a strict diet of rinky dink vagabond rock. (To quote Waits: “Never drive a car when you’re dead.”)

Along the highway in Arkansas, a bright pink billboard for Graceland got my heart a-thumpin’ for Memphis, and even though Timmy was driving, I pushed the eject button right in the middle of “Truckin’” and popped in Chuck Berry’s “Memphis, Tennessee.” Such a sad and beautiful song. Timmy cursed a blue streak all the way across the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge, and seeing we still had half a tank of gas, pronounced he was good for another 200 miles. We didn’t stop until we were halfway through Mississippi. That was my first, tragically short glimpse of Memphis. I hopped off Timmy’s bus in New Orleans and that was the last I saw of him.

Yearning for Memphis

But Memphis had got its hooks into me, and I’ve been back three or four times since. I’m still crazy about mid-20th century American music. And every now and then, at my home in California, glands in my mouth will inexplicably twitch for Memphis barbecue. There are other compelling reasons to visit the city – seeing the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. King died, makes my spine tingle – but for me, it’s really just about the meat and the music.

In early April, I passed through town on my way from New Orleans to Chicago. I had a spare day in Memphis – a full day – beginning with a short drive up from Clarksdale, Mississippi, and ending with the arrival of Amtrak’s City of New Orleans, which would deliver me out of the South shortly before midnight. I love these sorts of challenges. (I did the same thing in Rome, some years back, which turned into the inevitable Felliniesque hallucination.) It’s like packing a suitcase, or preparing a burrito. Somehow, by hook or crook, you’ll get in all that needs to be got in.

It was a Saturday morning when I reached town. Along East McLemore Avenue people were mowing lawns and washing cars. In Memphis style, art and signs were hand-painted on the sides and windows of beauty parlors. A woman in curlers and flip-flops stepped out of one such shop and made a beeline for a liquor store. Just then, I spied the Stax Museum.

Soulsville, USA

The first time I laid eyes on Stax – aka “Soulsville, USA” – my heart sank a bit as I recognized it for a mere replica. The converted movie theater where Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, and Wilson Pickett recorded their hits of the 1960s had been demolished and rebuilt in gleaming, retro fashion. Retro has never been my thing. I’m after the old, the faded, the left-for-dead. But I quickly got over it. You get used to such compromises when you’re into long-gone cultures. Museums always leave me a little underwhelmed. In the worst instances, they’re as lifeless and depressing as morgues. Old buildings frozen forever in a particular point in time can be interesting. The best museums are curiosity shops filled with unexpected gems that no one got around to melting down or throwing away.

Stax could be much better than it is, but it defies the odds in numerous ways. Firstly, they have installed tinny speakers on the lamp posts in the parking lot, which blare out a steady stream of Stax hits – a brilliant stroke. Inside, the museum offers a very contemporary multi-media blitz that does its best to make you feel like you’re walking through a Ken Burns documentary. It tells a compelling, two-part story (to summarize: early soul music drew black kids and white kids together during segregated times; MLK’s assassination in ‘68 hit like a sledgehammer, creating a widening crevasse of distrust). It beats watching a DVD at home, thanks to a barage of original artifacts presented behind glass. The only bonafide showstopper is Isaac Hayes’ sky-blue 1972 Cadillac El Dorado, with gold trim and shag carpeting. Mr. Hayes’ peacock garb also warrants long, admiring pauses.

Cozy Corner: Memphis BBQ like no other

Sun Studio

While Graceland is a garish cathedral, Sun Studio is a saintly shrine. (Taking the concept a bit further, the white-washed shotgun house in Tupelo, Mississippi, is a manger.) Among the Lunatic Majority that convenes in Memphis every August, to commemorate the anniversary of Elvis’ death, there is a fringe group that will tell you he made his best recordings in Sam Phillips’ one-room studio ¬– and that the King’s career went down the toilet as soon as he signed with RCA. I’ll admit I sympathize somewhat with this view. Elvis’ Sun Sessions have a magical quality to them, whereas the RCA period is mostly just interesting. (Note: there are guided tours of the Sun Studio over on the Viator site.)

All Sun has to offer is a one room and a satchel full of stories, but I’ve been back more than once for it. On this recent visit, my eager anticipation must have showed, because the hipster chick working the gift shop register had me pegged as a loser when I asked the price of a Jackie Brenston poster. She took great pains to look bored with the job, and I’ll admit I enjoyed her performance. Firstly, I know I’m dork when it comes to this stuff; secondly, too many tourist traps make the mistake of hiring overly enthusiastic staff who try to coax you into having a good time. I prefer to be sneered at as a sucker. I know what I’m after. I’ll have my own damn good time.

The beauty of Sun is that it has been left alone all these years. In spots, the acoustic tiles are peeling off the ceiling, and the room is cluttered with musical instruments and recording equipment - none of it behind glass. It continues to moonlight as an actual recording studio, and the lack of upkeep is due to an obsessive fear of tampering with that signature Sun sound. Of course, Sun isn’t all about Elvis. Howlin’ Wolf, Ike Turner, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, and numerous others all made music history here. Singers have been using the same boxy, chrome microphone since the early 1950s, and the tour guides aren’t bothered when guests step up to it for a few bars of “Milk Cow Blues.”

A few blocks from Sun is a barbecue joint called Cozy Corner, to which I retreated for a plate of the finest ribs in the universe. When I finished I was left with a paper plate covered with bones and crumpled napkins. And I felt about as bloated as Elvis, circa 1975.

A Loosely Related Anecdote

Elvis’ grave at Graceland

About half a decade ago, my wife, Fawn, called from her office to tell me she had been surfing the web and came across a highly interesting real estate listing. Fawn harbored fantasies of quitting her job and moving to the sticks where we wouldn’t have to work or pay any rent. However, this time, it was no ordinary shack in the woods she’d found. It was Johnny Cash’s country cabin, near Nashville. It was listed as a ‘fixer’, on several wooded acres, for around $250,000. The real estate boom hadn’t yet reached Tennessee.

Fawn: “We can pay off the mortgage with your measly writer’s income, and I can grow corn and distill liquor to cover the rest of our needs.”

God love her, she was serious. In a flash, I turned suddenly responsible (usually, she’s the grown-up one), thinking of our kids and careers, and said I didn’t like the idea. I also had visions of walking in Johnny Cash’s footsteps, sitting on his couch, wearing black, dropping my voice a few octaves, telling Fawn how well I liked her when she wore her hair piled high above her head. I knew I would be trapped in some sort of weird obsession for the rest of my life if we moved into JC’s country shack, and it scared me some.

I’m not proud of myself as I recall this incident. But you live, you learn.

Graceland

The point I’m getting at is, if the opportunity ever arises to live in Graceland – not to own it, just to move in – I’ll be ready. I won’t need a moving van, or even a suitcase. I’ll shoot pool in the Bedoin billiards room, discharge firearms at the TV sets, woo my wife in the jungle room, try on the myriad sequined suits and capes, and do cannon-balls in the kidney-shaped pool (just a few paces from the graveyard; population 3). I’ll even sneak past the cordoned off stairway for a peak at the bathroom, where Elvis met his maker more than three decades ago. For me, a place only gets five stars if I want to move in. Graceland is that good.

People always ask me if Graceland is worth visiting. Here’s what I usually tell them: If you are meant to see it, you will know.

–Tom Downs

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Memphis tours & things to do, from a guided tour of Sun Studio to the Elvis Presley in Memphis music tour.

Next Stop: Ancient Rome

Most visitors to Rome want to scratch beneath the surface of the Roman Empire, probably the most important historical aspect of Rome. That’s why an itinerary exploring Rome’s ancient past is something that should be a part of every visit to Rome. Here are a few of ancient Rome’s essential highlights.

Colosseo - The Colosseum

Rome’s most recognizable monument, the Roman Colosseum is technically known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, inaugurated in the year 80 AD. The infamous gladiator battles that the Colosseum is famous for were hosted here up until 435 AD. In modern-day Rome, the road leading up to the Colosseum is used to host a free outdoor concert in the summer, with musicians such as Simon & Garfunkel or Paul McCartney drawing crowds of around a million people. Viator links: Tours to the Colosseum, Roman Gladiator School

Domus Aurea - Nero’s Golden House

Built by the Emperor Nero after the Great Fire of Rome in 64 AD, this is a well-preserved example of ancient Roman architecture. Lavish interior decoration included gold leaf, ivory veneer and ceilings covered with semi-precious stones. The emperor’s palace was also rich with frescoes in the grotesque style that inspired Renaissance artists like Raphael and Michelangelo.

Ostia Antica - Ancient Rome’s port city

About a half hour train ride outside of Rome, Ostia Antica is the site of ancient Rome’s harbor and was the hub of commerce during the period. On a walk through Ostia Antica one can still see examples of daily life in ancient Rome ranging from mosaics that decorated the market to public toilets. The area of Ostia Antica is three times as large as Pompeii, so it’s best to bring comfortable walking shoes. Viator link: Half-day tour to Ostia Antica

Appia Antica & the Catacombs

Ancient Rome’s most famous road, the Appia Antica remains an excellent example of the ancient Roman style of building roads (e.g., in a straight line). While walking the Appia Antica, or perhaps riding a bike over the rough stones, you can still see the tracks left by carts that used the road for transport in ancient times. Ruins of statues and tombs, as well as the original aqueducts, line the street. Along the Appia are also various sites of ancient Roman catacombs, including San Sebastiano and San Callisto. The underground catacomb tours give visitors a look into the burial practices of the first Christians. Viator links: Roman Catacombs & Countryside walking tour, Crypts & Catacomb: The Underside of Rome tour, Christian Rome & Catacombs walking tour

Musei Capitolini - The Capitoline Museums

The Capitoline Museums on Capitol Hill (Campidoglio) are a great way to explore ancient Rome, especially on a rainy day when it’s not practical to be outdoors. Founded in 1471, the museums house many important sculptures and other artifacts that have come from excavations of various sites of ancient Rome. In the Hall of the Faun, you can see the statue of the faun brought from Emperor Hadrian’s villa, while the Hall of Emperors has an impressive collection of busts of Roman emperors from the Imperial Age to the late ancient period. Viator link: Capitoline Museums & Classical Rome walking tour

The Roman Forum

The heart of political and commercial life in ancient Rome, the Foro Romano still has several important archeological artifacts that have survived to this day. There are ruins of several temples as well as arches constructed by various emperors to celebrate triumphs. While many ruins are still visible, in order to fully appreciate the vast history of the Roman Forum, a guided tour is recommended. Viator link: Tours to the Roman Forum

The Colosseum in Rome

The Pantheon

Another of Rome’s most recognizable monuments, the Pantheon was originally used as a temple and was destroyed by fire in 80 A.D.; the structure we see today was commissioned by the Emperor Hadrian and completed in 125 A.D. The famous “oculus” or hole in the ceiling is a constant source of fascination to those who visit, and every year on Pentecost, red rose petals are released down through the oculus by Roman firefighters. The piazza surrounding the Pantheon is one of the major gathering points for tourists in downtown Rome. Viator links: Tours to the Pantheon and the Ancient Rome walking tour (including the Pantheon)

Vatican Necropolis & Scavi Vaticani

Reservations are required through the Vatican’s Excavations Office and often visitors are unable to choose the exact day and time of their visit. But if you can manage to get a ticket to either of these underground tours, it is well worth the work. The Necropolis (Via Triumphalis) tour commenced in October 2006, after three years of preparation. The area was discovered while breaking ground for a parking garage and archeologists have given it Pompeii-like status in the world of ancient cemeteries. The Scavi (Via Cornelia) tour covers excavations that were undertaken to locate the exact place where St Peter’s remains were buried, and above which St Peter’s Basilica was built.

–Shelley Ruelle

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of tours and things to do in Rome, tours to the Vatican and things to do in Italy.

One of America’s oldest cities, Baltimore is often in the shadow of its more flamboyant neighbors: Washington DC, Philadelphia and New York City. But Baltimore hasn’t been nicknamed Charm City without reason - “Bawlmore” as the locals call it is known for its many attractions, its rich ethnic and maritime heritage and its quirky, off-beat residents.

One of the most famous residents and the self-proclaimed Pope of Trash, John Waters put the city on the film map in the early 1970s with movies like Pink Flamingos and Female Trouble. Though these early films had more of a cult (and filth!) following he is probably now best know for Hairspray – the 1988 film, then the Broadway musical and the London musical, and then the 2007 film, part 2, staring John Travolta as Mrs Edna Turnblat.

Christmas at Hampden

A great place to get a taste of Waters’ Baltimore is in Hampden, where much of Hairspray and several other Waters films were shot. Hampden, a city neighborhood of small row homes is known for its unique and colorful residents and is home to Cafe Hon. This kitschy local restaurant is named after the local dialect “Bawlmorese” where you simply add “hon” to the end of every sentence – “How are you doing, hon?”, “Its nice to see you, hon”, etc.

The hub of Hampden is “The Avenue” - 36th street - which lined with galleries and antique shops. Another Hampden must-see is 34th street during the holidays. This one block of homes puts out literally hundreds of thousands of holiday lights and decorations from the tacky to traditional.

But Baltimore is not all off-beat, it has a strong sense of history as well. Baltimore has many historic and restored neighborhoods including Fell’s Point and Mount Vernon. Mount Vernon is a Victorian era neighborhood just north of the Harbor and home to the first Washington Monument. Named after English Quaker William Fell, Fell’s Point was one of the original ports of Baltimore and much of the architecture dates back to the early 1700s. A great (and fun!) way to troll through Fell’s Point’s narrow streets is a Baltimore Segway tour of Fell’s Point. Baltimore was also the birthplace of American railroading with the origin of the B&O Railroad. The B&O Museum now boasts the largest collection of historic rolling stock in the world.

Not far from the historic sites and the new heart of the city is The Inner Harbor. Stop number one for most visitors, this urban renewal project has brought all kinds of life back to the waterfront. It is home to several restored historic ships and to the National Aquarium (if you’re staying in nearby DC, consider a day tour to the aquarium). The Baltimore harbor was also the site where Francis Scott Key wrote what would become the US National Anthem as he watched the British ships bombard Fort McHenry in the War of 1812. The best way to take in all the Harbor sites, historic neighborhoods and museums is a guided Baltimore Sightseeing Trolley Tour.

Baltimore Inner Harbor

A trip to Baltimore would not be complete without a little nightlife – try the Baltimore Symphony, rated one of the best in the US, followed by one of the many pubs or wine bars in Mount Vernon.

A personal favorite is The Brewers Art. Housed in a restored historic mansion, they brew their own Belgium style beers (named curiously Ozzy, Resurrection, Sluggo and Wit Trash) and is a great place to see the quirky Baltimorians – from tattooed hipsters in the smoky front bar to the suburban movers and shakers in the dining room.

Finally a trip to Baltimore is not complete without tasting the local staple – crabs. You can get them almost anywhere and in almost any form – steamed crabs, crab cakes, crab benedict and burritos. A great place to try crabs in Fell’s Point (and a Baltimore institution) is Obrycki’s. There is even a branch in the airport should you need one last fix.

If you really can pull yourself away from Charm City, it is just a 30-minute train ride to Washington DC, or an hour to Philadelphia, or maybe its just time to book an airport transfer and take home your Charm City Memories.

Come back soon to Bawlmore, hon!

-Ken Frohling lives in Baltimore’s Bolton Hill neighborhood

Cairns, Australia

The islands, beaches and rainforests that surround Cairns make it world famous – an essential stop on any trans-Australian itinerary. It’s the most popular base for diving or snorkeling over the magnificent Great Barrier Reef, but you might struggle to fit that in around the bungee jumping, hot-air ballooning, skydiving, fishing, white-water rafting and horse riding. Animal sanctuaries are plentiful, so you’re certain to indulge your koala-cuddling fetish, and there are miles of eco-friendly boardwalks that penetrate deep into the rainforest. We’ve pulled together our Suggested Itineraries in Cairns to make trip planning easier for you. Read on for our highlights.

Day 1: Best of Cairns

Take a full-day tour that combines the best of Cairns, Kuranda and their environs. The breathtaking Skyrail rides high above the rainforest canopy, before a 30-minute helicopter ride to a helipad on the Outer Great Barrier Reef. Maybe you’d prefer an early morning hot air balloon ride that and also takes in the Kuranda Scenic Railway and the Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park theatres and museums?

If heights, pre-dawn starts and champagne at breakfast makes you feel queasy, try an all-day 4WD Daintree and Cape Tribulation Tour that will keep you on terra firma. Morning tea is taken at the Daintree River, and then you go deep into the world’s oldest rainforest.

Once your day-tour is over, head down to the Aussie BBQ at Cairns Night Zoo, which features steak, seafood and vegetarian options served with fresh salads and drinks. After ‘grub’ you’ll seek out owls by torchlight (flashlight), pat possums and koalas, and enjoy a traditional bush dance.

Day 2: Make Like a Fish, Make Like a Bird

The Discover Diving Program takes beginners and experienced divers to the Outer Barrier Reef 63 kilometres (40 miles) from Cairns for a day-long PADI-certificate course over the remarkable reef. Or sign up for a small-group diving and snorkelling tour to the Outer Barrier Reef or to Agincourt Ribbon Reef.

Skydiving in Cairns

If that’s too sedate, try the Tarzan-inspired Minjin Jungle Swing or (you know you want to …) a Cairns bungee jump from a 50 meter (164 feet) tower –- photos and DVDs can be purchased to show your friends what fear and trembling looks like on your face.

Are you just too tough for bungee jumping? Try firing yourself out of a canon or, better, skydiving in Cairns.

Once your pulse has normalized and the burnt-orange hues of day’s end begin to glow in the late-afternoon sky, it’s time to think about dinner. How about a four-course dinner cruise on the Ocean Spirit IV in placid Trinity Inlet?

Day 3: Oh My Aching Head… and Body!

So you’ve played hard during the day and partied hard at night, and now you need a more restful day. Cairns has a lovely foreshore pedestrian promenade and a 4,800-sq-kilometre saltwater swimming lagoon. You could sign up for the day-long Kuranda Skyrail and Rail tour and check out the hugely popular Skyrail then return to Cairns aboard the famous Kuranda Scenic Rail, winding around curves, across bridges, and through hand-hewn tunnels.

If that doesn’t sound appealing, breakfast at the Cairns Tropical Zoo includes breakfast at the Koala Café and an informative talk by the wildlife keeper.

For some evening entertainment, witness Dreamtime storytelling and performance with the Flames of the Forest Dining Experience in a secret forest clearing as dusk settles and the stars come out. A full three-course meal comprising high-end cuisine, bush ingredients and superb boutique wines accompanies an Aboriginal dance-and-music show. Also check out the Tjapukai by Night (read Kerrie’s recent post about the Tjapukai too).

This is just a sample of the oodles of things to see and do in this traveler’s paradise – browse our complete list of Cairns tours and things to do.

–Rowan M

I’m ashamed to admit I know only the bare essentials of Australian history - Captain Cook found us and decided to stick around, Ned Kelly ran around the country with a tin on his head, the ANZACs did us proud in WWI and a cyclone wiped out Darwin on Christmas Day in 1974 (I admit to Googling the year!). That’s pretty much my knowledge of Australian history. I know we are a very young country but I’m sure plenty more has happened in the past 220 years.

The problem I have is that with the very mention of the word “history” my eyes glaze over and my mind wands to a far away land. Don’t get me wrong, if I go somewhere with a long and eventful history I will check it out - I was fascinated by the Colosseum in Rome and will never forget seeing the Giza Pyramids in Cairo for the first time - but you won’t find me pouring through books and text to learn the history of a place before I get there. Ancient history is ok, full of gruesome stories and strange goings-on, but modern history - yawn!

On a recent trip to my heaven on earth - Port Douglas - I decided to remedy the situation and visit somewhere I had not been before in my numerous visits to paradise. I jumped on the Scenic Railway for a visit to Kuranda, a popular day trip from Cairns. The train ride goes up the mountains through the edge of the rain-forest with brilliant views over the city all the way down to the ocean. The building of the railway is an historical event in itself and there is commentary on the train as you travel, but as I said - eyes glazing over, mind wandering - I’m not a reliable source to repeat it to you.

Strolled around Kuranda markets, grabbed some lunch then headed back down to Cairns on the Skyrail, a cable car line over the top of the rain-forest which really is worth doing if you are in the area. Gives a whole different perspective of the rain-forest. Back on terra firma it was time for the last activity on our tour, a visit to Tjapukai (pronounced Jab-a-kigh) Aboriginal Cultural Park. Throughout school in Australia we learn a little about Aboriginal culture and history but most of what I remember is the ‘dream-time’ myths and legends. I know the indigenous people of Australia were badly treated by the first settlers but never really took an interest in learning the details.

Tjapukai is run by a local Aboriginal tribe and the small group of performers are very proud and passionate about their culture. You first see a live telling of the Aboriginal story of creation, before moving on to a music performance, of course featuring the didgeridoo and dancing. The there is a demonstration on how to make a didgeridoo, boomerang and spear throwing lessons (yes, its interactive so be prepared to duck!), and a presentation of bush medicines. It was all very interesting and enjoyable, but nothing ground breaking for me, just a pleasant day out.

To finish the visit at Tjapukai it was time for a short movie about the history of the Djabugay and Irukanydji people, the original inhabitants of this part of Australia. As the film began my mind already began to drift to thoughts of which restaurant to go to for dinner, but was abruptly brought back to focus as the story immediately highlighted the harsh reality of this part of Australian history.

The original owners of the land were hunted and slaughtered like animals - men, women and children. Those not killed were enslaved and forced to abandon their culture to adopt that of the Europeans. Their land was taken from them and they were not allowed to hunt and forage for food. Before there was time to process the brutality of the initial treatment, the film shows the ongoing affects of forced change and loss of identity suffered by descendants of these people. The struggle they face to find their place, trying to regain some of the rich culture and traditions almost lost 200 years ago, while coping with the ever changing modern world. The film finished on a positive note, profiling some of the ’success stories’ of the tribe today who are inspiring younger generations to forgive the past and re-embrace their heritage.

Seeing this film made it easier to understand and feel compassion for current day Aborigines who struggle with addictions and resentment. Our prime minister recently made a long overdue apology to the indigenous people of Australia and my visit to Tjapukai helped me understand why this was so important. It also inspired me to learn more about my own country’s history and find out how we got to where we are today.

Here at Viator we love to wax lyrical about the meaning of travel, why we travel, how we travel, whats the meaning of it all? For me its simple - I travel to learn. I think I can say on this occasion - I traveled, I learned - goal achieved.

-Kerrie O’Mahony

What’s the big deal about Florence? First off, it was an important medieval trade and commerce centre and was the home of the Italian Renaissance, which brought Europe kicking and screaming out of the Middle Ages. More to the point, the city is famous for its Renaissance art and architecture – home to Michelangelo’s David and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus – but there’s more to see than the Uffizi and Duomo. With so much to do you’d better get your skates on … or maybe your Salvatore Ferragamo shoes! For ideas on planning your trip, check out our Suggested Itineraries in Florence. We’ve listed some of the highlights below.

The Duomo in Florence

Day 1: The Art of Florence

‘Art is the queen of all sciences’, said Leonardo da Vinci; check out the Italian Renaissance masters on the Accademia Gallery and the Uffizi Gallery Guided Tour, which takes you through two of the world’s most important art galleries. Master works by Leonardo da Vinci, Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael and Michelangelo are just some of what’s on offer.

Tuscany is famous for its cuisine so when it’s time for dinner front up for the Tuscan Cooking Course and Dinner in Florence in a historic Florentine home. Learn how to cook traditional Tuscan dishes and how to match suitable wines. A sumptuous dinner follows.

The leaning tower of Pisa

Day 2: Pisa & Piazzas

Join the Private Florence Walking Tour for an intimate stroll through some of Florence’s finest architecture – Piazza Santa Maria Novella and its magnificent Dominican church containing Brunellechi’s famous crucifix and Masaccio’s Trinity, Palazzo Davanzati, Ponte Vecchio and Dante’s house. In the afternoon enjoy a leisurely drive along the Arno River on the Pisa and the Leaning Tower Tour. No trip to Florence is complete without a visit to this iconic Italian landmark.

Back in town head for the superb restaurants on and around Piazza della Signoria including the famous fine dining establishments of Gustavino, Angels and Alle Murate. There are also some sketchy tourist eateries around here too, so avoid the places that are packed out with tourists – pizzas and pastas are pre-prepared, reheated and doled out to the unsuspecting.

The hills of Tuscany

Day 3: Food & Fashion

You too can dress like the Florentine fashionistas – get on board the Florence Shopping Tour to the Gucci and Prada Outlets that visits all the most prestigious fashion companies where you can get discounts from 30% to 50%. First stop is Prada and then the tour goes on to The Mall where you can purchase glad rags by Agnona, Alexander McQueen, Armani Jeans, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Emanuel Ungaro, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Hogan, I Pinco Pallino, La Perla, Loro Piana, Marni, Pucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney, Tod’s, Valentino, Yohji Yamamoto and … gasping for breath! … Yves Saint Laurent. Better bring a suitcase.

In the afternoon enjoy a 40-minute double-decker bus excursion to one of Tuscany’s most beautiful areas on the Chianti Region Wine Tasting Afternoon Tour. The tour visits Romanesque churches, villas and castles, and historic farmhouses set amongst the region’s famous vineyards and olive groves. Wine and food tastings are featured, along with Chianti’s colorful history.

-Rowan M

Planning a trip? For more inspiration check out the full list of Florence tours and activities as well as things to do in Rome, Venice and Milan.

Editor’s Note: Terry Carter and his wife and writing partner, Lara Dunston, have written half a dozen travel guides to Dubai and the UAE and have made it their home base since 1998. We asked Terry to write about top local / off-the-beaten-path travel tips for Dubai. You can also check out their recent post about “Top Things to Do in Dubai“.

Dubai Tip #1: Dip your toes into the Arabian Sea

Dubai Tip #8 — Expat Volleyball

We’d like to say that it’s invigorating, but we’d be so wrong. The truth is that most of the year the water is as warm as a baby’s bath, but remember, it’s the Arabian Sea! You can surf, kite surf or just take advantage of the photo op with the Burj Al Arab as a backdrop. While it’s calm most of the time, there are strong currents – and you don’t want to be drifting off towards Iran with the US warships and pesky pirates around. If you do float to Iran, remember to call it the Persian Gulf not the Arabian Gulf. Just so you know.

Dubai Tip #2: Catch a local bus

Most visitors to Dubai never catch the local buses, probably due to the fact that you can actually melt into a sizzling puddle on the sidewalk waiting for one. But it’s a great way to mix it with Dubai’s expat workers – not the ones on the executive packages. You’ll see the neighbourhoods where they live and get a feel for the different expat communities. It’s also a great way to find those authentic workers cafés. Just look for the crowds around a hole-in-the-wall and get off. There is a double-decker hop-on-hop-off bus that does the main routes, but that’s cheating.

Dubai Tip #3: Let’s do brunch

When a Dubai resident says ‘let’s do lunch’, it’s not an empty threat. If you’re in Dubai on a Friday or a Saturday, brunch with the expats is a must. Take excellent people-watching opportunities, add good value food, mix liberally with free drinks, and presto, you’re living the Dubai equivalent of ‘the good life’. Week time lunch specials are also brilliant value. Check the Time Out magazine or website for the current dining bargains.

Dubai Tip #4: Shop yourself silly at a mall

Contrary to what you might read elsewhere, Dubai’s cultural activities don’t exclusively consist of shopping, shopping and more shopping (see our previous blog on Dubai), but the mall certainly is a focal point of local activity. Dubai doesn’t have a ‘town square’ or the ritual of the afternoon stroll around its manicured paths – this activity takes place at Dubai’s malls. Why? It’s too ****** hot to do it elsewhere! Whether it’s to meet friends for coffee, to check out the latest designer fashions (local and international), catch a movie, or just escape the heat, you have to hit the mall at least once. Just don’t call it ‘mall culture’…

Dubai Tip #5: Check out the local supermarkets

Dubai Tip #5 — Eat local

Sure they’re not as exotic as the souqs, but local branches of supermarkets (such as Carrefour) reveal a lot about how people live in Dubai. You’ll see old local women, often sporting the traditional burka (face mask), doing a monthly shop with a trolley laden with huge bags of flour, rice, cooking oil, and dozens of tissue boxes!

There are fresh nuts, olives, pickled vegetables, and other goodies (caviar anyone?) in barrels at the deli counter, but you can also pick up fascinating souvenirs here as well – chocolate covered-dates, orange water, rose syrup – all with endearing packaging that hasn’t changed since that old local woman was pulling water from a well.

Dubai Tip #6: Succumb to the spa

Dubai is fast becoming a world-class spa destination. Just about every five-star hotel has at least one spa and the treatment lists are just as extensive as any in Thailand. Given Dubai’s reputation as a luxury travel destination and emphasis on relaxing, it’s no wonder that the spa scene has become so competitive. Cleopatra’s Spa started the ball rolling many years ago and in many ways is still the queen (sorry!) of Dubai’s spas. And one of the most reasonably priced.

Dubai Tip #7: Picnic at Creekside Park

As soon as the weather cools off a little, Dubai’s residents hit the beach or a park. Creekside Park is a favourite because it has great children’s facilities as well as abundant shade and afternoon Creek breezes. The smell of BBQ (everything from Thai chicken satay to Middle Eastern lamb kebabs) and sheesha (aromatic water pipe) fills the air as does the playful sounds of children speaking a dozen or so different languages. Before you head to the park, drop in to the nearby Wafi Mall to Wafi Gourmet for your picnic supplies – juicy olives from the barrel, white cheeses, dips of hummus and muttabal, kebbe, and fabulous fresh bread.

Dubai Tip #8: Be a good sport

Dubai’s winter sporting calendar attracts everyone from Tiger Woods to Roger Federer (a part-time Dubai resident), and while this provides a great opportunity to see your favourite sporting superstars up close there are plenty of other sports to watch – or join in. Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan expats play cricket at any time of the day, anytime of the year, and anywhere where there’s room to swing a bat. Emiratis flock to see their favourite football (soccer) teams play at the stadiums and the sport of rifle throwing (yes, that’s what we said) attracts supportive extended families. Even if you’re here at the height of summer that’s no excuse: Monday night is Freestyle Night at Ski Dubai, complete with DJ spinning tunes.

Dubai Tip #9: Drink in the views

A Dubai ritual for residents entertaining friends, the ‘drinks with a view’ generally means selecting one of three options. There are the awe-inspiring city views: busy Bar 44 at Grosvenor House with its awesome champagne menu, or Vu’s Bar at the Emirates Towers Hotel where window-side tables are coveted. There is the Burj Al Arab view from either hip 360˚ at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel or safari-style Bahri Bar at Mina A’Salam. And finally, there’s the simple Arabian Gulf Sea view from funky Sho Cho (where you can also hear the waves crashing on the sand below) or lofty Skyview Bar at the Burj Al Arab. Cheers!

Dubai Tip #10: The midnight snack

The post-shopping, post-work shift, or post-imbibing ritual is to head to the neon-lit Satwa neighbourhood for a late-night nibble or a full-blown meal. There are several choices around Al Dhiyafa Rd, but the two main attractions are the basic Pakistani curries and sweet lassi (yoghurt-based) drinks at Ravi’s, or shwarma (juicy, fragrant lamb or chicken rolled up in a pita bread) washed down with fresh juice at Al Mallah. Enjoy!

–Terry Carter

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s complete list of Dubai tours & things to do, from desert sandboarding safaris to Dubai city sightseeing tours.

Ladies, if you ever need your mood lifted, go to Rome.

It’s very difficult for a woman to walk down the street there without being greeted with ‘Ciao, bella’ or ‘Buongiorno, beautiful lady.’ Very good for the ego. And definitely not pick-up lines but just part of the joy of life embraced by Italians. My theory is that all that pasta, wine and sugary cake makes them feel so happy they want to share the joy. Well, bring it on I say.

Trevi Fountain, Rome

Rome: Getting situated

I recently went to Rome for the third time and the geography of the city fell into place for me. If you have the luxury of returning to places, it seems to me that the third visit is key. The first visit, I’m a bit overwhelmed by new sights and sounds and smells. On the second I fill in the blanks, things I’ve heard about since my first visit, places I missed, venturing a bit further afield. But on this third visit to Rome, I suddenly realised where the Colosseum is in relation to the Pantheon, how to walk from the Trevi Fountain to the river without slavishly consulting a map, and braved buses and trams.

We flew cheaply from London and landed at the secondary, smaller airport, Ciampino. I’d always come in via Fiumicino, which has a train straight to the central station, Termini. But Ciampino was just as easy – and cheap – to get in from. A shuttle bus to the Metro A line which goes straight through central Rome (you can also book a private Ciampino airport transfer over on the main Viator site). There are only two Metro lines so it’s pretty easy to negotiate. I just wish I spoke Italian because the carry-ons of a group of teenagers in our carriage made the sternest looking woman burst out laughing – oh for a Babelfish in my ear.

Our hotel was near the Spanish Steps, Hotel San Carlo. Not crazy expensive, basic breakfast included, and so well located (which is important when time is limited). The most alarming, but very Italian thing, was my room number: 74. The hotel has no lift and after climbing as far as the third floor and seeing rooms 30-40, I began to doubt surviving the climb to the 7th floor! Luckily, Italians are a little free and wild with numbering so the 4th floor was rooms 70-80.

Day 1 in Rome: Walking & eating

Day 1 we walked. Up the Spanish Steps, left past the Villa Medici, through the Borghese Gardens, stumbling across great buildings, aesthetic trees, courting couples. Then we headed down into Piazza del Popolo, along Via del Corso, a major shopping street and thoroughfare, crowded with shoppers and wanderers. We were slightly distracted by various shops, but while damaging your credit card, you can still appreciate amazing architecture.

Saturday Shopping in Rome

And those police uniforms! Especially the carabinieri. Do they get these guys from Central Casting? Be still my beating heart. I had a job interview the day after I returned to London and when they asked me my weakness I had to stop myself replying “Italian Policemen”. But it is futile trying to get their attention – either they only stir themselves for really major crimes or they actually are window dressing while the real cops are hidden behind the scenes.

Dinner that night was at a great place in the grid of shopping and eating streets near our hotel: L’Enotec Antica on Via della Croce. We chose it because it looked atmospheric and the least touristy. We were right. There were lots of locals, the pasta was fresh, the service fast and efficient, the atmosphere great. After dinner, we wanted a nightcap but couldn’t get a seat at the bar so we went elsewhere: big mistake. In one of the many places with tables on the street, we were surrounded by young drinking English tourists and had a terrible tiramisu, which we didn’t finish according to the ‘empty calories’ theory (calories you don’t enjoy eating are pointless).

Day 2 in Rome: Ah, those Italian men

Day 2 we went for a coffee at Bar Gambero, a little place on Via della Vite and Via della Gambero that I had found a few years earlier. The same lovely waiters were still there, and they gave us free pastries – I flatter myself they remembered me but I suspect it is a first-visit tactic to make you a regular for your stay in Rome. Who cares! They were sugary goodness and the coffee was great.

Then we wandered. The Trevi Fountain is amazing if just for the sheer volume of people crowded around it. You have to wonder if the surrounding buildings are still apartments: imagine waking up to that everyday! Or even more fabulous, going to sleep looking at the fountain at night. It’s best all lit up, so we returned that night on our way home. We both threw in a coin and made a wish, avoiding the many, many guys offering to take our souvenir photo or push red roses into our hands followed by a demand for money. I can’t even imagine how crowded the small square must be in summer, at the height of the tourist season. Hang on tight to your handbag!

We visited the Pantheon. I love this building. Built around AD 120 – amazing. But one of the most interesting things is the way people behave there. It’s a sacred building, a basilica, and there are signs asking for respect and silence but people are wandering around talking loudly, sitting on the floor, yelling to friends. Maybe because it does not have the traditional church structure of aisle and altar and seating, it does not send us that ingrained message to be silent and reverent.

C U L8R AT 4UM

Next we wandered towards the river, via Piazza Navona, a huge square full of restaurants. But we shied away from eating there fearing inflated prices and decreased quality food. Instead we wandered through winding back streets, full of cute shops and found a little bistro, still full of us English speakers but with a nicer, less frantic atmosphere.

Then we headed for the Forum and the Colosseum. From the wrong side. Ah, the joy of travel without a map and a plan. We walked and walked, skirting the outside of the Forum, getting a great view of the ruins below us, but not actually finding the way in! By the time we did (it’s near the Colosseum by the way) we were tired, it was 9 euros each and we felt like we’d seen it by then. So we continued on to circumnavigate the Colosseum. Again, we didn’t go in, not feeling the need to part with the cash when you can sort of see in, and get the sense of the haunted place from the outside. Then we saw my favourite sight for the weekend: a Centurion texting on his mobile phone.

Exhausted we caught the Metro back to our hotel before braving a bus and a tram to get to the Trastavere district for dinner. I had a conversation with the bus guy, him speaking Italian, me English, but we understood enough to find the right bus. Trastavere is full of bars and bistros but long queues on a Saturday night. We were lucky to get a table in a place called Da Othello, highly recommended, lovely staff, great busy atmosphere and terrific antipasto then seafood with the whole fish filleted at the table. And the meal including wine was really cheap.

Then back to our local enoteca for a nightcap and for my travelling companion to break the heart of a barman who became completely smitten. We ended up returning there the following night for our final meal and he blushed and charmed his way into our memories forever. Ah, those Italian men.

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A friend told me the first time I came here, that every summer you spend in Berlin, will be better than the last. You have survived the long winter, now the sunshine is warm and you want to make the most of it.The city parks are indeed plentiful, and inside their lush greenery is where you will find the locals hanging out, enjoying the sunshine and working on their tans.

Many of them have a café, some have Ping Pong tables, a flea market or a lake. And of course, this being Germany, there is often an important site redolent with history to be found close by. So here’s my list of the top places to be, things to do, in Berlin this summer.

Yes, there are plenty of things to do in Berlin during summer

Things to Do in Berlin: Visit a Park

Gorlitzer Park in Kruezberg is across the road from one of the places I stayed on my first trip to Berlin, watching the puffballs float through the air, making my through the chattering Turkish family picnics and groups of young kids hanging out, doing capoiera, or playing ball games. This area was heavily bombed during World War II; an enormous crater is left in the park, showing where the railway underpass ran, as a reminder of the desecration and violence of war. The twisted metal from the railway underneath is formed into an abstract monument, jutting up into the sky. Edelweiss Cafe is opposite the faux roman ruins – an expensive edifice that is crumbling and in genuine decay now, as the sandstone absorbs the water that freezes and then cracks, making them into an all the more authentic, although expensive folly. The café has lush banquette seating, a nice relaxed vibe and upstairs hosts parties, concerts and literary events, in summer the chairs outside are perfect for observing the passing parade.

The Mauer Park hosts one of the best flea markets in town every Sunday, and the wandering musicians and buskers will keep you entertained after you have sifted through the incredibly range of second hand treasures and junk. During the recent Berlinale Film Festival, the crowd suddenly swelled with the upmarket well-dressed international film-set, making a change from the usual mixed array of hipsters, artists, and stalwart locals. The scout hall tucked away in the middle of market is an island of calm, at least until the play area becomes overrun by small children. Until then, get yourself a coffee or beer from the outside bar, and lean back in your deckchair and relax on the sand in the sun, with the generic euro-dance music making it a kind of after-party every Sunday.

This is of course along where the Berlin wall ran, creating a limbo zone on either side, and it has been regenerated over the past 20 years into the lively district it is today. Further down Bernauer Strasse towards Nordbahnhof, a short section of the wall still stands, opposite the new museum and a fascinating open-air exhibition about the history of the street, centering around the construction and eventual destruction of the wall.

Next, lose yourself in the rambling Volkspark Friedrichshain park, which has play areas for all ages – from children to fitness freaks - plus wonderful wooden swings, a lake, elephant statues and some lovely paths winding through hills and monuments. Café Schönbrunn is closest to the Am Friedrichshain street entrance, near the corner of Hans Otto Strasse, overlooking the lake and a gorgeous patch of emerald lawn, it has a cosy minimalist interior and outdoor terrace to enjoy the sun and warm evenings.

Nola’s Am Weinberg Swedish Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge is at the top of the hill in the Volkspark am Weinberg, named after the former vineyards located on the site, between Veternanenstrasse and Kastanienallee. They have a decadent if slightly pricey menu, including a variety of fondues, and there is a special lunch deal of 3 courses for around 8 euro. The view and ambiance make the prices worthwhile, looking over the grassy hill and across the city, and the benches along the terrace are perfect for late afternoon drinks, while the sun disappears behind the trees.

Eve and Adam’s 100% organic salad and smoothie bar (at Rosa Luxemburg Strasse 24-26) will keep your energy flowing with vitality and freshness, perfect summer taste after that walking in the park. All of the containers are biodegradable, and the design is simple and refreshingly open.

Things to Do in Berlin: Mitte Revisited

Now that I’ve lived here for 3 months I’ve found that there is plenty of joy to be found in Mitte, from the Ballhouse to the bathhouse. Schwarzwaldstuben, on the corner of Linienstrasse and Tucholskystrasse, is a fabulous place to while away a decadent afternoon, with robust German dishes and decent coffee. A friend and I tucked ourselves into the couch one afternoon, as we couldn’t head back out onto the streets until the hurricane passed, so spent a lush few hours drinking sekt.

You might want to get back out into the sunshine, and find your way along the many galleries on these two parallel streets to see what’s happening in the commercial art world these days. The scene is definitely hot, hyped and popping, with careers and fortunes being made all over town.

The Ballhaus Mitte, on Auguststrasse, is a fantastic reminder of bygone days, with a minimal entrance fee, old-style charm, live music, and even dance classes a few nights a week.

Stadtbad Mitte has an amazing Russian-style bathhouse and sauna on the third floor, although make sure you follow all the rules during your visit, or the ladies will berate you and fetch the manager to get you back on the program. The dry sauna has an intermediate room with stone benches, and a larger wooden area that gets very hot, and the damp room is satisfyingly steamy. The plunge pool will refresh you in between, if you can dip more than a toe in it, and the relaxing room has a lush array of rocking chairs that tilt back for the full therapeutic effect.

Things to Do in Berlin: Expose Yourself to Art

Artnews Projects, Berlin

The art galleries have blossomed into another cluster along Brunnenstrasse, where if you time your visit to coincide with all their openings,