DIY: Punk Backpacker in Berlin
Tuesday, February 19th, 2008Editor’s Note: Jack is back. Well near a computer, anyway. It’s been a rough month for Jack after that wrong turn down in Queensland. Since then he’s been up and down and round and round, with more than a few tales to tell. Jack is in Berlin now. It’s unclear how he got there. And it’s equally unclear if the Australian passport authorities will ever let Jack come home again.
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| Black clothes? Check. Mowhawk? Check. |
As you might expect, I’ve been a little down-on-my-luck lately. Had a fight with the missus, got turfed out on the street, and been a bit short on cash. I had to walk for a while, and well, even without a wallet full of pictures of the Queen, I managed to get around. I had this theory that, if you did it the right way, you could make your way without any money, but you’d have to do it with a particular style, y’know – flair.
But first, a point of order: I like a beer as much the next bloke, and I’ve had more than a few in my time, probably more than hot dinners, mainly because its hard to have six or more hot dinners straight after your first hot dinner. But beer? There’s always room for one more, and as they say, one for the road.
And if the road is where you are heading, probably just for a sleep or to meet some mates, who’s to say “no”? Even if it is well before midday and you don’t quite sound like you’re past last night. But if they’re only 60 cents, then chuck a couple of extra letters in “beer” and call that “breakfast”.
Now as far as that point of style goes, you may have noticed, except for some of the bands that tour nowadays, it’s not the 1970s anymore. And a *few* things have changed.
But the punks of Berlin seem to have that debonair way with cloth and hair that is like a passport to the world, and their story, well it’s sort of like a gutter and street-corner tour of the world. They care not for money, they care not for manners, hygiene and fine dentition. They care not for their packs of dogs of mixed breeding (except for the cute little scarfs they make them wear). One could learn a lot from these backpackers of the streets (strasse): travel light, don’t get thirsty and know all the things not to do and people not so see.
Berlin Punk: Some Background
The truth of the matter is, being punk in Berlin starts with an attitude, which is how the whole punk thing got started in the first place. Back in the glory days, the attitude came from your politics: social change, dissatisfaction with the way things were and nonviolent direct action. And like any decent cowboy of the streets, the way you dressed and how you lived showed your hard-fought politics, so there was something to it. I don’t usually judge a book by its cover, but these days in the punk section of life’s library, there is a lot more “poor me” whining, punk as fashion statement, and direct non-action than even a couple of years ago.
Berlin Punk: You Need a Dog
To have your passport to punk-backpacking success stamped and ready to go, you will need: that dog or two I mentioned before, some black clothes (ill-fitting is best), obligatory safety pins, hair in a mandatory mohawk (with or without colour and vertical ascension), boots, empty pockets and — to pull it altogether — a loping stride and downcast sneer. Got it? Now we need somewhere to go.
Berlin Punk: A Place to Loiter
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| Berlin Punk is Not Dead |
Berlin’s Alexanderplatz must have been an amazing place for people to come together back in the day: a great hulking open space in the middle of a great booming city, old Soviet-style buildings dwarfing everything in the area. Imagine all the People coming to be comrades, to meet, to talk, to greet each other and spend some time, even in the depths of the cold Berlin winter; the harsh shapes of the buildings softened by the warmth of the people milling in the Platz. AND it features the amazing golf ball on a stick (Fernsehturm, or TV Tower). Makes a fella from the country just wonder and shake his head, because a place like this could eat 10 town squares for breakfast and still have room for more.
And there’s that word again, breakfast, makes my stomach rumble just running over the words in my mind and for good reason, too. Three things I’ve found in my few days in Germany - well Berlin, which is practically an island in the stream. These three things could practically pass for a national pasttime in these parts: Breakfast, Renovation and Bicycles. Of these three, breakfast is the punk-backpackers only domain. No house to renovate, no need for a bike (because you’ve got your feet, and they’ve got boots). So back to breakfast and Alexanderplatz, what could they have in common? Twenty of your mates, two dogs each and that beer we left waiting a couple of paragraphs ago. Now head down to the platz and get started!
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| Helps make friends, won’t help keep them |
Another good place to hang out is at Kottbusser Tor U-bahn station, there’s always a party going on there — y’know just standing about and talking to drunks and their dogs. Just round the corner there is the Köpi, home of the regular Volkskuche (literally “people’s kitchen” or a place for cheap shared meals), punk bands on weekends and punks during the week (it smells the same any day).
Or there’s always the old favourite, Friedrichshain: plenty of space, the rent is still cheap but unfortunately most of the squats have been shut down so that leaves you with only take-away beers to drink at those great hangouts because the squat bars are nearly all gone. There is still the Fischladen though, and that will always live on.
Berlin Punk: Things Not To Do
Now, if you’ve got the hang of it and a few places to get started on your punk backpacker’s tour of Berlin you’ll need some things to do. We’ve already covered beer, drinking in public and hanging out with your dog. When out walking, if you need some space and someone is in the way, just push through (but ignore them as you do it). And remember if you are short of space, there is always more room on the bike-path or especially on the road.
If you need a steady course of income try begging, or bang away on a guitar tunelessly while your mate begs. Or maybe just a sign in front of you so you can fit in some quality staring-at-the-ground time, there’s never enough of that. Don’t forget not to smile. Smashing bottles is always good to fill the day (again, especialy on the bike path), as is shouting at the ruling class, they’re everywhere. You’ll know them because they’re the ones that don’t look like you.
Plannnig a trip? Browse Viator’s list of things to do in Berlin, Munich tours and what to do in Germany.



















