A waterfall is a waterfall, is a waterfall. Right? Visit the Iguazú Falls and see if you still believe that. The sheer size and crashing noise of the falls make this a highlight on any trip to Argentina - or South America, for that matter. Situated on the Argentine-Brazilian border, the falls are easily reached from either the small town of Puerto Iguazú, Argentina, or the much larger Brazilian town of Foz do Iguaçu.

This is not a place to spend just a couple of hours, regardless of how cynical you may be about visiting waterfalls. I had the same initial scepticism, but ended up staying two nights. As opinion is divided as to which side of the border offers the best view of the falls, do yourself a favour and book yourself two days here – at least. Broadly speaking, the Argentine side is best for getting right up close to the falls, whilst the Brazilian side offers a spectacular panoramic view. Either way, a clear day is a definite asset, but whatever the weather, your visit will without doubt be amongst the most memorable of your travelling experiences.

The following offers a description of both the Argentina and Brazilian national parks, and assumes you’re staying in Puerto Iguazú.

Argentina side of the falls

Parque Nacional Iguazú (Argentina)

Lying 20km northeast of Puerto Iguazú, this park is easily reachable by an hourly bus service (US$1, 30 minutes) – leaving between 7:30am and 8:30pm, and returning between 8:45am and 8:15pm. To avoid the heat and tour buses, catch an early one. A taxi from town costs about US$8.

Admission to the park costs US$10, and there is a new visitor centre, restaurants and gift shops, and a small train to take visitors from the entrance to various sites at the falls. The best way to see the falls, however, is on foot. Two circuits, the Paseo Inferior and Paseo Superior, provide ample viewing opportunities via trails, bridges and catwalks (pasarelas). The Paseo Inferior descends to the river whilst passing close to the falls, providing fantastic photo opportunities – or just the chance to get soaked. At the bottom of the path you can take a free launch to Isla Grande San Martín, a small island that offers the closest look at several of the falls, including the fearsome cauldron of Salto San Martín. The Paseo Superior offers a level hike and good views of the tops of several cascades.

An absolute must-see is the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), a gigantic cauldron taking up three sides, with the steamy vapour blurring the base as the cascades crash to the bottom. You can reach the Garganta from the last stop on the train from the visitor centre – simply follow the trail to the lookout perched right at the edge. The deafening noise will have you in goose bumps in no time. You will get soaked here, but that’s all part of the experience, and the sheer monstrosity will stay with you for the rest of your life.
Aside from the immediate area of the falls, it’s also possible to explore the park’s forest and rich wildlife. A worthwhile nature trail is the Sendero Macuco, located along the road beyond Puerto Canoas. The trail leads through dense forest to the Salto Arrechea waterfall, with its sheer lateral drop of about 650m. You’ll need to be careful in the muddier parts of the trail, and taking insect repellent would be a good precaution.

The Brazil side of the falls.

Parque Nacional do Iguaçu (Brazil)

Double-decker buses leave the new visitor centre every 15 minutes, offering a pleasant ride into the falls, with useful recorded commentary in different languages. Numerous activities can be enjoyed at the various stops, such as the Poço Preto Trail which offers a 9km guided trek (US$45) by bike or on foot, and ends at Taquara island, from where you can kayak or enjoy a boat cruise to Porto Canoas.

The best place to get off the bus, however, is at the Hotel Tropical das Cataratas. From here, simply walk 1.5km down the paved trail and enjoy the magical panoramic vistas of the falls on the Argentina side, with the jungle and river below. At the end of the trail you’ll encounter a metal catwalk jutting into the river at the foot of the thundering falls. It’s windy here, and you’ll get wet, but you’re guaranteed to enjoy it, especially if you’re blessed with a clear day. when a circular rainbow can often be seen arising from the sparkling spray.
At the end of the trail, take the elevator up to the viewing platform at the top of the falls at Porto Canoas, which is the very last stop of the buses. Sit out on the deck, enjoy some food or drink from the excellent buffet restaurant, and take in the once in a lifetime view of the river and falls, before catching the bus back.

Admission to the Brazilian park costs US$3.50, and is easily reached from Foz do Iguaçu’s urban bus terminal (US$.50, 40 minutes), with buses running every 20 minutes. To access the park from Puerto Iguazú, take the bus all the way to Foz do Iguaçu’s terminal, and then catch the ‘Parque Nacional’ bus. Assuming you’re only planning on spending a day visiting the park, then minimal border formalities will apply.

Puerto Iguazú

Although the main reason you’ll be staying here is to visit the falls, Puerto Iguazú is a nice enough place in its own right, with plenty of places to stay, and a relaxed, intimate ambience. Recommended budget sleeping options include Hostel Inn (US$6 for a dorm) and Hotel Tierra Colorada, which contains plenty of light and space and costs US$12/15 for a single/double room.

The cheapest places to eat are found between Avenidas Brasil, Perito Moreno and Ingeniero Eppens. La Esquina, boasting an imaginative Italian menu, a large wine selection and classical music, is particularly recommended, with meals costing around US$7-10. For descent parrillada offerings, head to El Charo, where good-value set meals are available, as well as outdoor seating to make it a great place to watch the world go by.

–Anthony Lye

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s tours in Central and South America, things to see & do in Argentina and things to see & do in Brazil.

This entry was posted on Saturday, October 27th, 2007 at 5:04 pm and is filed under Destinations, S. & Central America, Suggested Itineraries, Travel Inspiration. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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