After battling off a nasty cough and a week’s worth of work in London, some fresh air and a restful change of scenery were in order. In true budget traveler fashion I picked the destination with the cheapest flight: Geneva, Switzerland on easyJet. Armed with the determination that I’d find some tasty fondue and chocolate I boarded the plane, fingers crossed that the forecast for rain would change.
Day One: Geneva
Actual day one just consisted of arriving in Geneva and eating dinner at Auberge de Coutance, a French restaurant with an in-house keyboard player/singer who did a mean rendition of just about every rock epic song from the 80s. He was awesome, and the applause of the patrons proved it.
Geneva Flea Market
Full day one was a Saturday, so we checked out the Plaine de Plainpalais flea market, where my husband bought a very impractical sized (for carry on luggage) framed Rembrandt print in the five seconds we drifted apart. I think only complaining a dozen times about it was somewhat reasonable of me (does this count as one more?). Ill-conceived impulse purchases aside, the flea market is funky with all sorts of vendors and definitely worth a browse.
We were fascinated by some of the beautiful Third Reich-era German Marks for sale, if you want to see examples of Germany’s post-war crazy inflation look at a five Mark note next to a five hundred Mark note.
Geneva is highly walkable. We took a nice stroll along the Rhone leading up to Lake Geneva and its “fountain”, which shoots up a stream of water something like 140 meters. I was also excited to see Lake Geneva has swans and ducks. And of course, fantastic views of the Alps. The unrestrained purchasing of chocolate commences.
And for dinner - fondue! In winter the Bains des Paquis (swimming club) on Lake Geneva turns into the premier house of fondue. It was superb with crusty bread, but it was also yummy to try the dried beef and pickles. And of course, a nice Swiss white wine.
Day Two: Laussane
Outsider art in found shells
Geneva is now rainy, so we decide to leave. We hop on the next express train for Laussane and admire the rainy lake view from our very comfy Swiss train seats. Laussane is less rainy, but Laussane is also museum central and we ponder our dozens of options - geology? contemporary art? the Olympics?
We settle on the Musee de l’Art Brut, a collection of outsider art. I have trouble deciding if the pieces on display are more or less fascinating than the artist’s biography, I settle on that it varies case by case.
Several of the artists have a decent level of familiarity with war, mental illness, sanatoriums, and their family’s attic and / or basement.
More than a couple worked for the postal service, read into that what you will. A lot of the pieces are made with found objects, and sometimes constructed with such minute detail it is hard to conceive how anyone could create it.
Day Three: Clarens, Montreux, Chillon Castle
A sunny day! Which means a nice long ramble is in order. We hop on the local train with the ultimate goal of getting to Chillon Castle, just past Montreux.
Chillon Castle on Lake Geneva
But around Clarens, just past Vevey, we decide that we’re close enough to walk it to Chillon, five or six kilometers sounds like a nice constitutional in the bracing Swiss air. Also Clarens cemetery is the resting place of my favorite author, Vladimir Nabokov, so we pay him a visit and head over to Montreux on the high road (as opposed to lakeside road).
The views of Lake Geneva, the Alps and the Vaud region vineyards are spectacular. About half an hour past Montreux we arrive at the waterfront Chillon Castle.
Freddie Mercury will rock you in Montreux
Chillon Castle was initially constructed in the 12th century, and still bears much of its original structure, furniture and decorations. I learned more than I ever thought I would know about the Savoy, Bernese and Vaudois eras of Switzerland.
But the best fun was wandering through the whole castle (there’s not much off limits), who’s up for turret climbing or dungeon visiting? I think the enchanting 700 year old paintings (basically murals) in the chapel were my favorite.
We ramble back to the train station at Montreux, walking lakeside this time to see the Freddie Mercury statue, yes, the lead singer of Queen has a statue in Montreux.
Final Tip: If you stay in a hotel or hostel in Laussane or Geneva, be sure to pick up a transport card at check-in. Your hotel taxes actually net you a nice perk, a free public transport pass during your stay, it is even valid for the airport train in Geneva.
Up for some fondue and chocolate? Check out more of Viator’s favorite things to do in Switzerland.
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