More than a few years ago, back when the Earth was flat and tourist was just another name for traveller, I lived in a little piece of paradise some 80 kilometres out of that Ultima Thule, Darwin. The one that you hear so much about, middle of nowhere but somehow the centre of something.

This little patch was on the edge of the “other” National Park of the north, the tourists they all want to see the mighty Ka Ka Doo (Kakadu National Park), with its huge waterfalls and billabongs and crocodiles and blablabla…

Not so many make it over to Litchfield National Park, two hours closer to the “action”, if that’s what you’d call it in Town, and in my small estimation at least twice the better of its eastern cousin, too. (Cut to the chase if you like; click here for a Viator tour to Litchfield National Park from Darwin.)

Now, as far as geology goes, one of my small hobbies in stretching myself out over the land that shares its place on the mighty Terra Australis, Litchfield and Kakadu, and the Tanami Desert for that matter, they have at least one thing in common – oldest rock shelves in the Northern Territory.

Where the rock’s old, and you’ll find mining engineers and prospecting companies gathering and rubbing their hands in anticipation of future prosperity. Litchfield has many subterranean friends: gold, copper, lead, nickel, cobalt and of course the great U with no learning – uranium. ‘Twas the site of Australia’s first Yew-ranium mine, it was, and the little bits that lie discretely from the average travellers’ way still bear silent testimony to this passing historical fact.

Why bother you with a history and geology lesson on the point of travel? Well, it’s these finer details, hidden away beneath time’s passing veil and the layer of dirt we call Earth, that give the true tips on where to go and how to stay. I’m not going to spoil it for you and tell you what kind of plant sits atop these little collections of metallurgical joy, saying that there is probably water about, too.

But when you learn the signs you can read the land, something that many a “True Blue” Australian may have never encountered in their time in this new country of ancient means. Suffice to say, Litchfield might not be the biggest of the mighty North’s national parks, but it has secret wonders if only you look.

And perhaps, without upsetting the locals, I’ll share a hint or two…

Litchfield National Park: Jack Shares a Secret, or Two

After the first hour out of Darwin, past the many new traffic lights and points of congestion, and just after the Noonamah pub, you’ll strike the turn-off to the “back way” into Litchfield, along Cox Peninsula Road. This is no secret and probably even the locals aren’t big fans of the slow dirt road that coaxes you in after the 30 km or more of tar that lead to it. You can wave as you pass my old shack, a couple of K’s off to the east as you barrel down the road. Over to the left, round the Blackmore River, the black soil plains flood come wet season, when this road is cut off further down by the Finniss River, and I’m told great crocodiles roam the area and even scarier locals roam on those airboats like in Gentle Ben. But I digress.

The road through the park, being a loop, brings you back out at Cox Peninsula. The other way into Litchfield is further down the Stuart Highway and through the town of Batchelor – which got a little write up in my first post. Follow the signs and once you’re through, the scenery settles a little and undulates some, too. A couple of jump-ups to small escarpments though the eastern side of the park and where there’s a drop, you may find waterfalls. As the ground moves round, you’ll also notice some signs pointing out the famed Magnetic Termite Mounds. Unless you’re out to estrange friends you haven’t met yet, don’t worry about these little roped-off patches of tourist turf, there’s plenty more little wonders like these spread around. Over on the CP Road entrance, there’s a whole unmarked field of them waiting to stand and wave at you as they turn pink in the sunset.

Termite Mounds at Litchfield National Park

There’s two little theories on why the termite mounds run east-west (or north-south depending on how you look at it) – some say it’s a cooling effect, their skinny edge attracting less of the sun’s heating rays, as with their cathedral mound cousins which employ crenelation for their air-conditioning. The other reason proposed by those in the know is that they follow the strong magnetic lines in the area, and the little geothermal line that starts round the west side would maye suggest something in that, as well as all the lightning storms I used to watch from my verandah back in the days I lived there. For many of these reasons, Pethericks Rainforest Reserve, a privately owned camping area by local indigenous people is worth stopping at for a swim, be sure to show respect and follow their signs.

Things to Do at Litchfield National Park

Florence Falls (east side) and Wangi Falls (west side) both have camping and waterfalls, too, though in peak season (May/June to September/October) and especially weekends you may have trouble finding a spot to get wet, so get in early. There’s also a bit of a circular current in Wangi Falls and those that find swimming a struggle (everyone in Australia has to learn to swim as a youngster in school) have been known to have a little trouble with the the pull round the far waterfall. Buley Rockhole also has a plethora of mini-waterfalls and splashing around spots, but sometimes its as simple as respectfully slipping a little way down the creek and some peace can be yours.

Waterfall in Litchfield National Park

For those of you pulling some mobility in a 4WD, the Lost City makes for an interesting excursion because, well, it looks like a lost city, all Stonehenge but in the bush. It’s a bit of a hike but worth heading out, because again, there’s less people milling about catching flies with their mouths agape at all the natural wonder out there.

Another way to escape the crowds, but not the heat if you don’t take a hat and some water, is the TableTop Walk between Wangi Falls and Buley Rockhole. There’s a few of these off track wonders around the park, taking a compass and map sure help, otherwise some good boots and something to keep the grass seeds out of your leg hair. Nothing quite like getting out on the plateau and doing a bit of discovering for yourself away from the luxury of the air-con and teeming hordes. There’s a bit of information on it you can download from the NT Government site here.

Now I’d be run back out of town next time I go back if I divulged all the little secrets here, for the world to see, that Litchfield has hidden under the brim of her hat. But suffice to say this little taster tells you that you don´t need to pay the earth and drive for a couple of hours to actually spend some quality time in the bush if Kakadu is not your calling.

–Jack Brown

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s Darwin tours and things to do in Alice Springs, including Kakadu National Park and Litchfield National Park.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, February 27th, 2008 at 9:23 pm and is filed under Australia & Pacific, Destinations, Suggested Itineraries, Travel Inspiration. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

Get articles like this one delivered to your favorite RSS feed reader.
Subscribe to Viator Travel Blog now.