Viator Viator Travel Blog

It was the second last weekend in November and a friend of mine was in London without a room booked for the Saturday night (a long story). Dragging her suitcase, she walked into about 50 hotels ranging from one star to five. None of them had a vacancy.

She headed to an internet café, checked the usual sites: there were only18 rooms available in London that night - some fleapits in unheard-of districts, the others luxurious and at their full price. She ended up sleeping on my floor.

The point of this story is that London in the lead-up to Christmas is busy. Very, very busy.

Dark, wet & comforting

In Oxford Street yesterday as darkness fell at 4:30pm, the Christmas Carol-themed decorations swung overhead in the wind and twinkled in the rain, the streets were heaving with shoppers. Everyone clutched full shopping bags; no-one cared about getting wet. The excited chatter was in a huge variety of languages: London is the destination for shopping and in the lead-up to Christmas it’s at its very best – not just for shopping.

Carnaby Street's Christmas decorations

Twinkly lights on the high streets help you forget about the damp long winter months to come, and add to the wonderland feel on London. Mince pies and mulled wine help stave off the cold. The smell of roasting chestnuts deliciously wafts from street corners.

Christmas lights

Every year London lights up with the joys of Christmas. Many of the local high streets pull in a celebrity to flick the switch sometime in November. Regent and Oxford Streets are the main hubs and this year their lights feature Charles Dicken’s Christmas Carol (to tie in with the Disney film). Jim Carrey turned the lights on in Oxford Street, Colin Firth and Robin Wright Penn in Regent Street and Bob Hoskins did the honours down at St Paul’s Cathedral.

Just off Oxford Street, Marylebone High Street has a lovely village feel and pretty Christmas lights. For me, this street is London at its loveliest.

But my pick for this year is Covent Garden. Light artists UVA have put together a stunning, non-traditional display. These are the people who do light shows for U2. Convent Garden also has reindeer petting – yes, real live reindeer. And who doesn’t want to finally meet Rudolph?

Fa la la la la

Christmas is the one time of year we all get to have a good sing without anyone judging us. Carols are written to be sung by those who are vocally challenged. So, please, lift your voice and join me in creating aural pollution with the best intentions.

St Paul’s Cathedral is a bit of a must-visit for Christmas singing. The Cathedral Choir shows us all how it’s meant to be done, but they generously let us join in at times. The architecture of the St Paul’s dome also creates the Whispering Gallery so if you’re a bit shy, head up there and sing your carols softly – people all around the dome will hear you.

St Martin in the Fields is a gorgeous little church near Trafalgar Square that has a wonderful carols programme every December. It is mainly concerts however and tickets cost.

For a free for all singing experience head around the corner to Trafalgar Square where regional and local choirs will lead loud and proud carol singing.

London’s Christmas tree (via Olso)

Every year, as thanks for help in the Second World War, the city of Oslo in Norway sends an enormous Christmas tree to Trafalgar Square. Around 25 metres tall, it glitters with hundreds of white lights that are lit amidst huge festivities in early December, this year on December 3rd.

Not surprisingly, Santa becomes a very busy man in the month before Christmas in London. He has to run from Harrods’ “Santa’s Grotto” to Selfridges’ “Christmas Grotto Winter Wonderland” with polar bear and penguin animatronics, then from Kew Gardens’ enchanted woodland to Canary Wharf, then back to Hamleys in Regent Street (London’s biggest and most beloved toy shop).

I’m not sure if the real Santa takes part, but on December 19 don’t miss Santa Skate – a horde of Santa’s skating London’s streets for two hours, stopping off in Hyde Park and Trafalgar Square before finishing in a Grotto which strongly resembles a pub to celebrate the joy.

Christmas pantomime

A very British institution, the silly season brings on the pantomime season when lots of the stars of the small screen step onto the stage. Panto is hugely cathartic for adults, who get to hiss at the bad guys after a year of behaving well in the office. For kids it’s a colourful, loud and rollicking theatre experience.

This year’s favourites will be: Peter Pan flying around the O2 arena, Rock’n’Roll Aladdin at The Shaw Theatre, Dick Whittington at the South London Theatre (it’s all things Dickens this year), Shrek and the Beanstalk at Millfield Arts Centre (a charity event for Great Ormond Street Children’s Hospital), and Aladdin at New Wimbledon Theatre with Ruby Wax then Pamela Anderson playing the Genie of the Lamp.

London’s ice skating rinks

From November to January stately and not so stately buildings around London freeze some water out front and call it an ice rink. Hugely popular for both skating and the hot chocolate and mulled wine in the café afterwards, my favourites of London’s ice rinks are Somerset House, the Natural History Museum, the Tower of London Moat, Hampton Court Palace, and Wembley Stadium. If you’re heading out of London, strap on your skates at Winchester Cathedral and the Eden Project.

Ice skating over Christmas at London's Natural History Museum

London Christmas shopping

In these difficult economic times (gloomy voice), retailers in London will be hoping for a massive spending spree from us all. And with enticements like days where everything is 20% off they’ll probably get us in the door.

For the fifth time, the first Saturday of December is Traffic Free Day: Oxford, Regent and Bond Streets will be closed to all vehicles so shoppers can wander free. Expect stores around the area to offer all sorts of specials and entertainments. But be warned, this is the crowded epicentre of London retail so if you don’t like crowds, don’t go there.

That same day, December 5th, the Salvation Army hosts the Fair Christmas Fayre in Regent’s Hall, Oxford Street for ethical gifts. And don’t forget that if you live overseas, you can claim your Tax Free Refund!!

London’s Christmas markets

To balance out the chain store retail frenzy, lots of local shopping streets are holding Christmas Markets where you can find handmade, vintage or gourmet gifts.

For a huge variety of gifts, clothes, jewellery etc, head for Old Spitalfields Market, Camden Lock or Portobello Market. There are lovely small designer’s shops in the streets around Carnaby Street too.

For food, try Borough Market which is just one of the world’s great delights any time of year, or one of the many farmers’ markets dotted around London. Smithfield Meat Market is also famous but not recommended for the vegetarians seeking tofurkey for their Christmas table. Covent Garden has a Real Food Market for Christmas.

German Christmas Markets also pop up all over the place in December. One of the best things about these is the traditional bratwurst sausage in bread. Enjoy with a German beer. Hyde Park has a German market and at Southbank there’s the Cologne Christmas Market. This includes Santa’s Secret Village where the kids can meet Santa and ask everything they’ve always wanted to know about the North Pole, reindeer and making toys. For adults who’ve enjoyed the beer a little too much, you get the chance to ask about entering houses via chimneys and Mrs Claus.

And now for something completely different

Medieval Christmas at the Tower of London: See what Christmas was like in 1284. Entertainment includes a Fool – for once, not your great uncle but a paid entertainer: now that’s a job I wish still existed.

The Great Christmas Pudding Race: Covent Garden Piazza, December 5th, watch contestants dodge obstacles such as balloons of flour while they race balancing a Christmas pudding on a plate. All proceeds to Cancer Research.

Geffrye Museum – After watching Dicken’s Christmas Carol on the big screen, step back into Christmases past at Geffrye Museum where each room is decorated in the festive style of way back when, before Christmas became all about money.

The Nutcracker performed by the English Ballet. A tradition since 1950 – I will be going for the first time this year. Can’t wait.

So many reasons to visit London for Christmas. Just remember to book your hotel room before you leave home.

-Philippa Burne

Planning a trip this holiday season? Browse Viator’s London tours & things to do in London, from London shows to London day trips.