Interior of the bar Murmur, Melbourne

Getting thirsty at Murmur, Melbourne

Bars. There are so many bars in Melbourne. Just 20 years ago, the central city area was a virtual wasteland; packed with suits from 9 to 5, and then empty.

I remember looking down Bourke St – one of the two main city thoroughfares – from the state Parliament building one Sunday afternoon in the mid-1980s and seeing no movement at all. No cars, no trams, no people. Back then, shops couldn’t open on Sundays. Back then, while there were lots of pubs in the city, none were especially safe to drink in. Back then, Melbourne had forgotten its laneways. Back then, there were no bars.

So much has changed. Shops are seemingly never closed. People now actually live in the city. Lots of them. And with them have come supermarkets, restaurants, more galleries, more diverse shopping and lots and lots of bars.

Each Friday night the decision is harder and harder: where will we go for a drink? Ten years back, you might go to the Lounge or you might join the too-cool-for-school set at Meyers Place, Spleen or Troika. They’re all still around (in fact, I knocked back a Melbourne Bitter long-neck at Meyers Place last Friday afternoon), but they’re now the old-timers in a seemingly endless parade of bar openings. Down every gritty laneway. Above every second shop. Up three flights of a rickety wooden staircase.

A quick search of the Yellow Pages gives me 107 bars and clubs in Melbourne’s compact CBD, but I can think of three or four not in the list – they open too quickly for anyone to keep track of! And they seemingly never go out of business. What’s this all about? Does Melbourne – as a city – have a drinking problem? Maybe, although I’m reminded of that great Tom Waits lyric “Don’t have a drinking problem / Except when I can’t get a drink.”

By that logic, no, Melbourne has no problem.

Top Bar Picks in Melbourne

So here I go, putting my reputation on the line and proving just how behind the times I am. Here are my favourite Melbourne bars. Some are years old, others are shiny and new, and each has something unique to recommend it. Have fun, try a good local beer from Mountain Goat, Little Creatures or Mildura Brewing, and keep yourself nice!

Murmur (17 Warburton Lane). Down a little street, around the corner into a nondescript dead-end lane, past the boxing gym and up a flight of wooden stairs. It’s a classic ‘hidden’ Melbourne bar, where just finding it is part of the experience. But once inside the mid-sized room, it’s time to relax amid the wrought-iron, floorboards and comfy couches. An impressive stock of imported beers sits alongside a neat stable of local brews. Music is cool and vibey – and not too loud – with DJs on some nights. Bar snacks are available and the martinis are a treat.

I was not kidding

MOO (basement, rear of 318 Little Bourke St). Once the postal service’s Mail Order Office (hence the name), MOO is a treat. Slightly overpriced lunches and dinners can be ignored in favour of the scrumptious tapas and unique cocktails in this intimate basement venue. Order an Escobar at the bar and watch the guys slavishly work over your drink, then nab a spot in one of the booths or on a Chesterfield and enjoy a quiet chat with friends. Forgot to pay last time I was there, and they chased us down the street. Fair enough.

Madame Brussels (Level 3, 59 Bourke Street). This one’s a bit strange. Named after one of Melbourne’s original brothel owners, MB’s is all English lawn tennis and fruity punch. Fake grass, little pathways, trellising and a hedged bar create a fun, foppish atmosphere. There’s a fabulous, large outdoor terrace, just perfect for summer (and if it’s cold, the staff will give you a blanket).

Cherry (ACDC Lane – seriously – behind Flinders Lane). Rock ‘n’ roll lives at this grungy late-night venue. Since it opened in 2000, it’s been all beer, bourbon and dancing in this high-volume some-time band venue and bar. It’s a great place to kick onto in the small hours. It’s always free, although it’s not uncommon to have to queue. Wear black. Wear flannelette. Whatever; but don’t wear a suit. And be ready to dance hard.

The laneway to Cherry

Syracuse (23 Bank Place). Not really a bar-bar, more a restaurant and wine bar, Syracuse is classy and classic. With a French bistro feel, wine is the main attraction, and their list is impressive (over 700 on offer!). The staff is famously knowledgeable and relaxed, and the atmosphere is casual in a semi-formal kind of way (know what I mean?). Their food – and especially the tapas – is top notch. This place is great for a light afternoon snack and a couple of glasses of red.

Melbourne Supper Club (Level 1, 161 Spring Street). Like Syracuse, but later at night and a bit more rowdy, the Supper Club is a Melbourne institution for the post-anything crowd. Queuing on the stairs is a right-of-passage, and well worth it. By the time you get settled on a leather couch and have your first-of-several European beers, you’ve been transported into another world. Sophisticated? Yes (the waiting staff will light your cigar if you’re that way inclined). But the Supper Club doesn’t take itself too seriously - you can order a cheap tray of piping-hot party pies (Australia’s favourite kids party snack). There’s an enormous window looking to the east, and when the sun starts to rise, you know it’s probably time to head home.

Croft Institute (Croft Alley). When it opened six or seven years ago, the Croft Institute was undeniably the coolest place I’d ever seen. Now a bit gimmicky (actually, it always was), this bizarre and slightly creepy place attracts an arty crowd all week long. Not just down a lane, but down a lane off a lane, this place is almost impossible to find. Nevertheless, the Croft Institute is worth a visit, even if just to see it for yourself. The ground floor has a 1950s science lab feel: brightly lit with medical instruments and beakers. Drinks are great. Next floor up is a ‘waiting area’ and the toilets (Department of Male and Female Hygiene), regarded by many as the strangest and most notable loos in Melbourne. Up one more flight of stairs and it’s old-school gymnasium décor and an always-pumping dance floor. The cover charge can sometimes be off-putting, but the Croft remains quite a place.

--John Ryan

Planning a trip? Browse all of Viator’s tours and things to do in Melbourne. Fancy a Yarra Valley winery tour? Or maybe a day at an Aussie Rules footy match. Colonial Tramcar Restaurant? Yup, Viator has that, too.

This entry was posted on Saturday, May 19th, 2007 at 6:36 pm and is filed under Australia & Pacific, Destinations, Food, Drink & Travel, Travel Inspiration. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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