Viator Viator Travel Blog

Reykjavik (Reykjavík), despite its tiny population, is a very cosmopolitan place for being tucked away in distant Iceland. The nightlife in Reykjavik is legendary. And when the sun is out, the mustards and crimsons of its corrugated houses sit in happy contrast with the Nordic blue of the summer sky. Reykjavik is an awfully pretty town to meander through.

But a bustling metropolis it is not. It’s the kind of town you get to know in a day. And on the second day, you meet everyone who lives there. Everyone. So unless you intend to travel outside of Reykjavik and commune with nature, there’s not much point in being in the Icelandic capital for more than a long weekend. There are only so many times one can ambulate downtown’s main street, Laugavegur, before it starts getting really old. And nobody likes vinarbrauð (Iceland’s version of a Danish, filled with marzipan and icing instead of fruit) and coffee that much.

Pylsur - the national food of Iceland. Yes, it's a hot dog.

Nevertheless, Reykjavík’s viking-meets-water-nymph eccentricity is utterly charming and if you’re aware of her greatest hits before you get there, three or four days will fly by. Try not to expect too much from Reykjavik, and she will treat you to a fine long weekend indeed.

Reykjavik on foot

First up, you need to orient yourself as Reykjavik is a town that can easily be seen on foot. Use Hallgrímskirkja (the towering Lutheran church at the top of Skólavörðustígur) as a starting point. Venture up the tower for an impressive bird’s-eye view (400ISK for adults, 100ISK for children 7-14) then walk down Skólavörðustígur to sample some of the local arts and craft shops and cafes (Mokka and Babalú are great pit-stop points).

At the bottom of the hill, Laugavegur to the right and Bankastræti to the left provide a paradise of clothes boutiques and eateries worth exploring. The day doesn’t start in Iceland before coffee has been consumed. The locals take their java juice seriously (almost as seriously as their coffee breaks which are frequent and protracted). Hjólmalind, resident hippie café, makes a sensational soy chai latte. Tíu Dropar’s cakes and coffee are a welcome treat after navigating Laugavegur’s foot traffic and the grandma’s parlour atmosphere attracts hipsters and older locals alike.

My parents went to Iceland and all I got was this lousy…

For unique Icelandic shopping, pick up something made from Icelandic wool, pop into Naked Ape (the nu-rave outfitters of the north), Rokk og Rósir (flawless vintage), or Aftur, for an utterly Icelandic look.

From there, you can either head downhill towards City Hall and Tjörnin (The Pond) and its surrounding gardens, or steer yourself seawards for a stroll along the shore. The Sun Craft sculpture, separated from Mount Esja by a choppy bay, makes a wonderful photograph; the rusting shipping vessels propped up getting fresh coats of paint are endlessly fascinating.

The Sun Craft sculpture

From here, you can venture down to the Maritime Museum in the old harbour, dubbed the Fishpacking District due to the new artist and recording studios and offbeat boutiques springing up there (vintage refurbished bicycles at Kria, and unique clothing, accessories and giftware with a macabre twist at Vopnabúrið).

Reykjavik bars & clubs

Don’t assume that after a day of walking the only way of unwinding is in a hot tub. The nightlife is well worth rugging up for. Since the 2007 closure of legendary bar Sirkus (famed for its rafter-hanging, all-night, celebrity-packed antics) other favourites Boston, Kaffibarrinn and Karumba have stepped up to fill the void.

Friday and Saturday nights are wild affairs downtown… one good reason to choose a hotel slightly off the beaten track if partying isn’t your thing. Gutsy local English-language newspaper The Grapevine elucidates on the issues of the day as well as listing special events and gigs worth attending. If you are lucky enough to be in town when Sigur Rós, Múm, FM Belfast, Reykjavík!, or Gus Gus are on the bill, take my word for it and go along.

Please don’t stare at Björk

While on the subject of homegrown talent, given Reykjavik’s diminutive size, there’s a good chance that a night out will see you lining up for a Brennivín or a Víking beer alongside local or even international celebrities. If you feel the urge to whip out your camera and start snapping, please resist. Most bars operate a “no photography” policy so that the privacy of their patrons is respected.

Street art in Reykjavik

My first “Björk encounter” (everybody here’s had one) was puzzling. I assumed the woman everyone was studiously ignoring was an enthusiastic lookalike rather than the genuine article. Despite being clad head to toe in white lace, she wasn’t getting a single wayward glance. Upon mumbled inquiry, I discovered it was indeed the Swan Dress Lady in all her doilied glory.

That’s just the way Icelanders treat native talent. They treat them as they would a fishmonger. Or the Prime Minister. As equals. The experience was repeated when I found myself soaking in a hot tub opposite Magnús Scheving (AKA Sportacus from LazyTown… those of you with kids will know who I’m talking about). We swapped smiles, pleasantries, and then got back to soaking.

While we’re on the subject, Iceland’s water culture definitely rates a mention and no Icelandic adventure is complete without it. The options are numerous – local pool and spa complexes, tourist haven the Blue Lagoon, or some of the naturally occurring hot springs further afield. Check out my blog on Getting Soaked in Iceland for more information.

What to eat in Reykjavik? Fish of course. And hot dogs

There’s no escaping the fact that Reykjavík is a fishing town. Unsurprisingly, the seafood here is fresh, affordable and delicious. Visit Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) on the dock where whale watching boats and whaling vessels moor, incongruously, side by side. It’s not the cheapest fish in town, particularly given that it’s served on Styrofoam plates, but their lobster soup is touted by gourmands of repute as the world’s best. (I can’t comment due to a shellfish allergy, but all the visitors I’ve taken there have raved.)

OSushi (upstairs at Iða bookstore on Lækjargata) offers sushi-train japery. If you’re feeling adventurous, let the fish roll by and instead hop on board with whale sashimi or (brace yourselves…) foal sushi.

The menu at local favourite þrir Frakkar incudes smoked puffin, whale, reindeer, plokkfiskur and many other traditional Icelandic dishes.

If, however, your budget leans more towards paper napkins than linen tablecloths, head straight for Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur across the road from the Kolaportið carpark to sample the Icelandic national food… hot dogs. Even hole in the wall vendors offer a good product but the pylsurs here set the standard. Bill Clinton ate here during his visit in 2004 (just mustard, hold the onions and ketchup). Shame. Those crunchy fried-onions and sweet relish are what make the Icelandic pylsur truly great.

Art & culture in Reykjavik

Open from 11am-5pm every Saturday and Sunday, Kolaportið Flea Market is another worthwhile destination. It is a genuine trash and treasure affair, particularly since last year’s financial crash when Icelanders realised they should be focussing on frugality rather than futures funds.

Just a few blocks away on Tryggvagata you will find Listasafn, Reykjavik’s Art Museum. Despite its grand semblance, it presents an easily absorb-able number of works – large scale paintings, photography and installations – making it viewable in under an hour. Entry is free; save your kronur for the upstairs café serving good coffee and a selection of soups and sandwiches, all coming with a complimentary side order of sea view.

If Iceland’s Viking past interests you, the National Museum of Iceland has a comprehensive collection of artefacts and historical information – presented in Icelandic and English.

Day trips from Reykjavik

There are a handful of good day trips from Reykjavik. The Golden Circle tour of south-eastern Iceland is imperative. Either hire a car or join one of the many Golden Circle tours on offer. The Golden Circle tour is an excellent way to sample Iceland’s natural beauty in a day: Þingvellir National Park, the site where the European and American tectonic plates meet, Gulfoss waterfall, and Geysir (which faithfully shoots a jet of steaming water skywards every four minutes).

Some of Reykjavik’s closer attractions - such as Perlan, the site of the city’s hot water storage and a fancy revolving restaurant; the geothermally heated beach Nautholsvik; and the hot tubs at Seltjanarnes - are all reachable by bus. Tickets, routes and timetable information can be found online or in person at the central bus stop Hlemmur.

-Maggie Rays

Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Iceland sightseeing & things to do in Iceland suggestions, including Iceland day tours and things to do in Reykjavik. Also check out Kelly’s previous blog about Iceland.