Singapore has a lot more going on than meets the eye. Maybe it can’t match the messy human chaos of Bangkok, the high-tech chaos of Tokyo or the grand outdoors of Sydney, but it does have all these things in small, Singaporean-sized pieces. Take a few days to discover more than just its shopping and stopover clichés.
Singapore Day 1: Chinatown and City
You can approach Singapore’s Chinatown from a variety of directions, walking along North Bridge Road from Clarke Quayor taking the MRT to Chinatown station, which gets you straight to the hub of the street markets and souvenir shops. My favourite route to get there is a meandering stroll from Tanjong Pagar MRT, along Peak Seah St to the corner of Maxwell Rd.
Here, the Red Dot Design Museum is the physical embodiment of the design awards, funky contemporary design for all kinds of products, communication and concepts, and refresh yourself afterwards at Artery bar. Crossing Maxwell Rd takes you to the Maxwell Hawker Centre (click here for more Singapore hawker food recommendations), and from here walk up Ann Siang Rd to experience another aspect of the old city. Most of the shop houses have been transformed into upmarket boutiques, there’s a Nordic style store, cool objects and clothes at ‘die Wardrobe’, and a glimpse of the past in the parlours of the Sporting Associations, the walls adorned with trophies and hundreds of black and white photographs of the club members and their trophies, going up towards Ann Siang park at the top of the hill and the start of Club Street, famous for its nightclubs.
Walking back down the hill towards Chinatown, stop in to the most wonderfully quirky bookstore I found in Singapore, Books Actually, with magnificent selection of literature, picture books, and other whimsy, holding reading nights, book launches and a small café. Across the road is the Screening Room, which has one of the most glamorous rooftop bars in town, open from 6pm you can see across the winding streets and red rooftops of old Chinatown, and imagine what the city was like before skyscrapers took over.
Cross over South Bridge Rd to immerse yourself in the street markets along Pagoda, Tregganu and Sago Streets for a mix of old and new souvenirs, and of course sample every kind of delicacy you can eat at the hawker stands and night market. The gorgeously decorated Sri Mariamman Temple and Masjid Jamae Mosque are on the corner of Pagod and Mosque streets respectively, make sure to respect the etiquette if you go inside.
Walk back along North Bridge Rd to Clarke Quay, where you can try one of the best range of imported beers at brewerkz, and promenade along the water to the Fullerton Hotel for the epitome of old-world style. Across the marina is the Esplanade concert venue and theatre complex, with a world-class range of theatre, music and dance, something in the program is sure to appeal.
Singapore Day 2: Art, culture, nightlife & a little shopping
Pick up the handy format pocket sized maps at the airport information centre when you arrive, they come in a themed series, covering ‘Geek’, ‘Hip’, ‘Eat’ and of course, ‘Shop’. The penultimate geek experience is still Sim Lim Square, home to everything electronic, although watch out for those ultra-bargain prices, as they often come with inflated service charges. Do your research beforehand to get the price range, know exactly what brand and model you want, check the international warranty is part of the deal, and it can still be a bargain.
I have to confess that shopping malls are some of my least favourite places in the world, however I did enjoy wandering around Vivo for the sparkly glamour, Bugis Junction for convenience and books, and even ventured once or twice to Orchard Rd and the high-end glamour malls.

The Artists' Village: 20 Years On
Art lovers have a variety of options to explore for a more in-depth understanding of the traditional and contemporary cultural scene. The Asian Civilisations Museum on two sites, at Empress Place and the Peranakan Museum on Armenian St is a fascinating exploration on the heritage of Asian cultures, and also has a café and gift shop selling a great selection of books and CD’s by local authors and musicians. The Singapore Art Museum, on Bras Basah Rd, shows major international exhibitions, including French photographer Alain Fleischner and high-profile local talent, including an exhibition showcasing over 20 years of work from The Artists’ Village; solo show by Masriadi: Black is My Last Weapon; and of course the exciting Singapore Biennale in September.
Just across the road, The National Museum of Singapore has a fantastic history show, and also displays contemporary work in the permanent collection, with an intriguing food room, activities for kids and wonderful swinging chandeliers. Recent temporary exhibits include the media arts exhibition as part of ISEA (International Symposium on Electronic Arts), a solo show by Matthew Ngui, and gorgeous sculpture, sound & video installation ‘Transient Light – Whispering Breeze’, a collaboration between Spanish artist Ruben Ramos Balsa and Yuen Chee Wai.
On nearby Armenian St, experience the sounds of Singapore’s cutting edge underground at The Substation, one of the longest running art spaces for all kinds of experimental music, art and performances. I attended a noise gig there with Justice Yeldham playing broken glass, local performance poetry and breakcore, and just missed sound art supergroup Sonicbrat, Zul and in Libations of the Moon.
Grey Projects, an intimate artist run space at 40 Zion Rd has cutting edge contemporary art to fuel the imagination, and Osage Gallery is located at the top of Mt Sophia, just behind Dobhy Gaut MRT, with a spectacular view of the city and eclectic program including Asian focus on media and sound art, with lush bars nearby to relax and discuss the works.
Singapore Day 3: Little India, Arab St & beyond
Lose yourself for hours in the streets of Little India, resplendent with vibrant colours, music, food and life. It’s the perfect escape from all the malls, and a fun alternative shopping experience is Mustafa Centre, open 24 hours. The prices are set, unlike Sim Lim, so you don’t have to worry about bargaining or being talked into changing your mind. The main problem will be deciding what to buy, everything under the sun is available here, usually in myriad varieties, from sunglasses to suitcases to glass bangles, electronics and saris.
As you wander through Little India, make sure you check out the latest happening artist-run Post Museum, which has a gallery, performance space upstairs and Food 03 vegetarian restaurant (109 Rowell Rd, Singapore 208033). The prices are higher than usual for this area, but you know your money is supporting local artists and producers, and the food is excellent, if a little slow, and the chic stripped-back décor gives a calm ambiance amidst the bustle and crowds. Also visit Your Mother Gallery at 91A Hindoo Rd for more alternative culture.
Arab St has the most wonderful selection of fabric, where you can find yourself some gorgeous sari material or wonderfully textured linens, colourful patterns and have it sewn up by the tailors located upstairs. Try a shisha (hooka-style pipe) in one of the many late-night café’s, or listen to the live music at Blue Jazz, and find hardcore punk in the alternative music shop on Bali Lane, next to the very cool gothic glam clothes store, which will also make up their designs to suit your style.
If you’re craving a sense of life outside the city skyscrapers, head West to Jurong Bird park, or walk through Chinese Gardens to visit the live turtle museum, and gorgeous red wooden bridges in the Japanese Gardens. The Tang Dynasty village is now in romantic ruins, awaiting redevelopment, but Haw Par village can still be visited for a unique experience of the kitsch elements in Chinese mythology, rendered in fabulously colourful concrete and stone. A trip to the 10 Courts of Hell will only cost you $1, and is definitely one of the highlights for me.
A walk through the treetrops in McRitchie reserve is recommended, although it’s a long hike to get there, the surrounding forest is worth the effort. Palau Ubin Island is another option for the adventurous, take a ferry across and relax with a beer from one of the traditional wooden shops or rent a bicycle to discover the very edge of Singapore. (Check the Viator website for more Singapore tours & Singapore day trips.)
Singapore Food & Nightlife
If all this culture is making you thirsty, head to the 3rd floor of Odeon Towers at 331 North Bridge Rd for a wonderful view of the city from Loof Bar. Take your business card for happy hour drinks and enjoy a lychee martini or two!
A little further down the river, past Clarke Quay and Ministry of Sound for the hardcore dance party scene, find the cool Wine Bar at Zouk. The club also houses Velvet Underground and is one of the premier dance venues for the hip young crowd, with visiting international DJ’s.
Dempsey Hill is home to Samy’s Curry Restaurant, go there for excellent South Indian dishes served on banana leaves. One of the original restaurants in this location with excellent food, service and the slightly fading décor only adds to its charm. Jones the Grocer also has a restaurant here, with an upmarket take on local dishes, and for an after-dinner drink, simply wander through the maze of bars until you find one that appeals. My favourite had an outdoor jungle terrace, protected from mosquitoes by the industrial strength coils burning under the table, the atmosphere almost made up for the slow service.
The Park View (a.k.a. Gotham Bar) at 600 North Bridge Rd, between Bugis and Arab St, occupies the entire ground floor with the most insanely lavish art deco architecture. Although ‘The Divinie Society’ is a private club you can usually still drink there, look out for the angel bartenders with fairy wings, who ascend to the ceiling cellar to retrieve the wine.
Park View
Keppel Bay Island has recently been opened up to the public with the privately built Keppel Bay Bridge, only a few minutes by cab from Harbourfront MRT station, past the cable cars going to Sentosa. Chill out at one of the many bars and cafes on the marina, watch the ships sail past, and observe construction on the new Daniel Libeskind designed apartment towers, Reflections. Fans of the architect, or aspiring penthouse owners can even visit the model apartment.
Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Singapore tours & things to do, from the Singapore Zoo to Sentosa Island day trips. If you need a place to stay, check out Singapore Hotels on Planetware.com.






September 21st, 2008 at 5:16 am
Little Indian and Arab street are a little congested and one also needs to take car of his/her belongings here.
September 30th, 2008 at 2:34 pm
Very nice!
October 6th, 2008 at 11:32 pm
Thanks for the nice write up on Singapore! ^_^
September 14th, 2009 at 6:40 pm
What a compilation of things to do in Singapore.. and many of which I’ve not visited before as a Singaporean lol