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One night in Bangkok…

One night in Bangkok…

…and the tough guys tumble. It’s true, but really – one night in Bangkok is never enough. Perhaps more than any other city, Bangkok is a city for the senses. There are amazing sights – like the golden-spired “Wats” that dot the city; amazing sounds – the whir of tuk-tuks and buzz of conversation; amazing touch – the feel of silk and the touch of a Thai massage and of course the amazing smells and tastes of Thai food!

Bangkok is a place that you can visit over and over again and always find something new. In the past 10 years, I have made several trips - for work, for pleasure and as a convenient flight stop-over. I have come up with my ideal week of both the “must sees” and the sites off the beaten Path.

Singha
It tastes even better in Bangkok!

We have a lot to cover, so here goes…

Bangkok Day 1: Arrival

Depending on where you are flying from, you will probably arrive late at night. The new Bangkok airport is modern and efficient but charmingly chaotic! Taxis are plentiful and cheap and there are lots of touts in the airport to “help” you. Though most Thais speak English, the last thing you want is to be driving around while your driver tries to find your hotel! A better idea: pre-book your transfer. You’ll get a private car, an English speaking guide and they’ll know in advance where you are going. Check in to your hotel, have a Singha and get good nights sleep – we will be busy tomorrow.

Bangkok Day 2: Grand Palace & Wat Arun

Start the morning with a visit to Bangkok’s most famous site – The Grand Palace. Though no longer the Royal residence, it is still a beautiful compound of glittering buildings and the famous Emerald Buddha. For the first time visitor, a Guided Tour is highly recommended. It gets GREAT reviews - tell us what you think! After lunch, head to Wat Arun – also known as the Temple of Dawn – my tip: after your tour, come back around sunset and wander around as the sun goes down behind the temple.

Suan Lum Night Bazaar
Suan Lum Night Bazaar - still going strong.

In the evening, make your way to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This HUGE open air market-dining-drinking-people watching spot is one of my favorite places. There are literally thousands of small stands selling everything from souvenirs to shampoo. It’s been reported that the government is evicting all the merchants to develop another hotel/office complex, but many of the merchants have refused to move. You will see some empty stalls, but as of my last visit in November, 2007, the market is still going strong. The market is also home to the Joe Louis Puppet Theater - a fun place for all ages to see Thai puppetry. For dinner check out any of the open-air places for a great Thai meal - or even a pizza or Mexican, it’s all there.

Bangkok Day 3: Temples, Jim Thompson’s House

Another busy day! Your guide will pick you up at your hotel for your tour to Wat Pho – or the temple of the reclining Buddha. At 46 meters in length and 15 meters high the Buddha is the largest in Bangkok and illustrates the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. This tour also includes two other temples – Wat Traimit – the Golden Temple and Wat Benchamabophit – the Marble Temple. (OK, we have covered it all – Emerald, Golden, Marble…!)

Sirocco Restaurant at State Tower
Sirocco: Come for the view or the food.

In the afternoon, head over to Jim Thompson’s House. You can easily visit the house on your own, or if you are into Thai architecture (or Thai Silk!), take the private tour. Jim Thompson, an American who returned to live in Thailand after World War II (he found New York City tame after many years in Bangkok!), is known as the man who put the Thai silk industry on the global stage. A visit to his beautifully built Thai house showcases his passion for Thai arts and culture. The house was constructed from different parts of various derelict houses in central Thailand and contains a fabulous collection of paintings and Asian artifacts. In 1967 Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared in the Cameron Highlands (Malaysia), which has only added to his legend.

Tonight is our splurge for dinner, with a visit to Sirocco on the Top of the State Tower. This outdoor restaurant has incredible 360-degree views of Bangkok and fantastic food. Warning: it’s not cheap. Plan on about US$100 per person. If you are on a budget (and not an expense account) come up for a Sundowner drink instead. The view is the same!

Check out the great menu and make a reservation in advance. Dress sharply!

Bangkok Day 4: Chao Phraya River & Thonburi canals

After breakfast, grab a taxi to Chinatown. For added excitement, take a tuk-tuk, the noisy three-wheeled motor bikes that ply around the tourist zone. Hang on tight as these guys weave through traffic and make zippy turns. Once you are there, just wander the streets and take in the action. Bangkok is a relatively safe city, but be sure to watch your belongings here, as pickpockets are not uncommon. Speaking of pickpockets: be sure to visit Nakhon Kasem, or the “Thieves Market”. Used to be most everything here for sale was stolen from somewhere else, but now it is mainly antiques and souvenirs.

Next stroll down to the Chao Phraya riverfront. Historically, the river was the main thoroughfare of Bangkok and it still buzzes today with commerce. There are piers located next to many of the major hotels including the Sheraton, Peninsula and Mandarin. At any pier and you will be “offered” to charter a long-tail boat. Most boats can also take you down the canals of Thonburi, a district on the west side of the river where the river is still the center of the action. Many houses are built on stilts over the canals and the boat is a great way to see daily life close up – really close up! Don’t be shy – these guys cater to tourists and a boat cruise is great fun. Bargain hard as the prices may start out at 10 times what they should be. For the less adventurous, there is a long boat river taxi that makes several stops up and down the river on a fixed schedule.

Bangkok Foot Reflexology
Press HERE to relax.

After a leisurely lunch, it’s time for a massage. For about 300 Baht ($7-8) you can get an hour long foot massage – perfect for those weary feet. For a few Baht more, you can get an hour long Thai-style massage, usually performed on a mat and a mix of pressure and stretching. It’s not always gentle, but you will feel relaxed, I guarantee. Look for the “legit” massage parlors on any major street, often with foot reflexology signs in the windows and rows of comfy chairs lined up inside. Note – if there are a gaggle of scantily glad girls (or boys) out front and the prices are a lot higher, you are not likely going to get a “traditional” Thai massage. ‘Nuff said!

Bangkok Day 5: Thai cooking class

If you love Thai food, then today will be a highlight as you learn to cook (and get to eat!) some great Thai dishes. Viator has two options for you – a half-day class or a full-day class with a visit to a market outside the city. I did the half day class on my last visit and really enjoyed it. In each session, you learn to cook 4-5 dishes, an appetizer, soup or salad, main and a dessert. The menu changes each day, so you can come back on each trip to Bangkok. The classes are small and the chef/teachers are great fun as they explain not only the recipes, but a little about Thai life and culture. You get to take home the recipe books and can buy the menus for the other classes. Look for the course with the Thai green curry!

This afternoon is for relaxing by the pool, shopping, or maybe another foot massage. (Truth be told, I get a foot or back/shoulder massage every day when in Bangkok. For just a few bucks, it’s an hour well spent!).

In the evening, venture out to the Patpong, Sukhumvit or any major street and sample some great Thai food from a local vendor or open air café. If you are not sure which one to go to, look for the crowds of the locals and follow them. Rarely will you see a menu – just a selection of delicious and spicy foods. Point, smile and order!

Bangkok Day 6: Thai countryside – River Kwai, Floating Canals, or Ayuthaya

After several busy days in the city, it’s time to venture out and see the countryside. There are a lot of options depending on your interests – A day trip to the ancient capital of Ayuthaya, a tour to the famous Bridge on the River Kwai, or maybe an early morning trip to the floating markets at Damnoen Saduak to see the merchants buying and selling right off of their boats. I have done each of these trips on different occasions and can recommend each one.

Bangkok Sky Train
Bangkok Sky Train at the Mo Chit Station.

Bangkok Day 7: Chatuchak market, Dinner Cruise

If it’s the weekend, then you MUST head to the Chatuchak market. Often touted as the largest outdoor market in the world, this is a one-stop shopping center, but VERY different from your local mall. I think it rates as one of the Top Ten Places in the World to Shop and I bet you will agree. This market has just about everything - souvenirs, artwork, housewares, silk, clothes, pets – you name it. Again, the word of the market is NEGOTIATE. The price for anything here is based on the vendors’ quick calculation of you and your ability to pay. Bargaining is expected and when done with a smile, a laugh (and a willingness to walk away) it can be a win-win for both parties. The market is very easy to get to on the fast, efficient Bangkok SkyTrain. You can’t miss it – it’s the last stop (Mo Chit) on the Sukhumvit Line.

For your last night in Bangkok, the perfect ending is a peaceful Dinner cruise on a traditional rice barge. As the sun sets and the heat dies down, they city actually comes to life - the lights come up, as do the small fires of food carts all over town. As you drift past it all, you can begin to plan your next trip – Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, or maybe Hong Kong

There are 100’s of great things to do in Bangkok. My week is just a sample. For nearly anything on this itinerary, you can take a private or group tour or explore on our own. But remember, popular tours like the cooking class and river cruise sell out in advance.

Ken F

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8 Responses to “One night in Bangkok…”

  1. Luke Says:

    Looking at your Dublin & Guinness Brewery posting, there seems to be a recurring theme of half empty beer glasses in your travels Ken!

  2. Pauschalreise Says:

    Lovelly country and a interesting city. We visited the wat po and had a massage as well. Great experience! Cool blog!

  3. Erica Johansson Says:

    Excellent post! You’re lucky to have been visiting Bangkok that many times! Bangkok is still on the top of my list of places to see. So far a few of my “musts” are Sirocco, enjoy a foot massage and go for a stroll along the Chao Phraya river.

  4. Ken Says:

    Thanks for the comments - and you are right Pauschalreise - Wat Po is the center of traditional Thai massage education. You can get a great massage for a great deal from one of the student. Time well spent!

    - Ken

  5. Jordan Digby Says:

    Ken, I take great exception to one point in your article - the depiction of Singha Beer as the lead picture. Singha is the “Fosters” of Thailand - good for tourists, but no locals really drink the stuff. The *best* beer in Thailand is Beer Chang - ‘Elephant Beer’ (with two elephants on the front label). Slightly more potent than Singha, but tastes much better. So when in Thailand next, ask for a Beer Chang at the bar, and people will think you’re a local!

    P.S. If you *really* want to look like a local, ask for ice in your beer as well ;-)

  6. norrishall Says:

    Don’t know if you’ve seen this already but if not you might be interested in this website: http://www.thaifoodtonight.com

    It’s got about 30 Thai recipes each one with a cooking video to go along. Good if you like to try cooking Thai food at home.

  7. Ken Says:

    Jordo - Point taken. I am shamefully taking off my “traveler” hat and putting on my “tourist” hat when I sip my Singha.

    I also take “Fosters of Thailand” to by synonymous with “Budweiser” in the US, am I right? For a really downscale brew in my neck of the woods, you drink Natural Bohemian - or Natty Bo!

    Thanks for the tip (though still can’t take the ice)

    Ken

  8. Patcha Patchapa Says:

    As one of Thai people, I’m very proud to see the traveling stories around Bangkok Thailand. It’s my pleasure that you visited Thailand and looked so happy. Surprisingly and happy to see your post shows your impression in my country. There are many interesting places in Thailand waiting for you to visit, such as Chiang Mai North surrounds with old tradition, cold weather, and beautiful mountains or famous beaches in the South if you have a next longer time to visit again. I am pleased to provide you more information if you needed.
    Thanks for the nice trip,
    J

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