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| Edinburgh: The City of Alcohol, Tours and Filth? |
All great cities have a nickname that supposedly tells us something about their character. You know, Paris is the ‘City of Light’, Rome is the ‘Eternal City’, New York never sleeps and all of that. Back in the day Edinburgh was called ‘Auld Reekie’, which is Scottish for “Old Smoky” or “Old Smelly”. The city was given this term (of endearment?) because of the large quantities of smoke emitted from factories and chimneys around the city. Edinburgh is indeed still a smelly city — of course, the foul smell of early industrialisation has been replaced by the sweet scent of beer coming from nearby breweries.
Since the Auld Reekie days, the Scottish capital has been spared from kitschy monikers. Not so anymore. I am about to pitch a couple of possible names that could be internationally associated with Edinburgh. Who knows? History might prove me right.
Edinburgh: The City of Tours
In Edinburgh’s Old Town, at the very end of the Royal Mile, you will find the Palace of Holyroodhouse (the Queen’s official residence in Scotland). If you chose to experience the palace in the company of an audio guide you are welcomed by the snobbishly dry voice of Prince Charles of Wales himself. Most fascinating, however, is the beautiful 10th-century abbey that concludes the tour. You could also take a tour of the Scottish Parliament, just opposite of the palace. The parliament was finished in 2004 and the Scots are still debating whether this building is dead-ugly or not. While you form your own opinion in the matter, consider the fact that it cost £431 million to build (which is only £391 million more than the modest estimated cost).
When evening falls get yourself a ticket to the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour. Two very enthusiastic actors will give you the low-down on the famous authors and literary characters of Edinburgh while you sip some beer from the various pubs you visit. Tickets can be bought at the Beehive Inn in the Grassmarket. (You can browse more Edinburgh tours on the Viator site, include walking tours in Edinburgh.)
Edinburgh: The City That Always Drinks
Scottish people love alcohol. It is true. On the negative side are the gangs of highly intoxicated preteens that wander the city centre on Friday evenings. On the positive side, the Scots insatiable need for pubs has produced some very nice establishments to visit. Perchance the oldest pub in Edinburgh, the White Hart Inn in the Grassmarket has Scottish folk music on Sunday evenings. Another establishment with folk music on the menu is the Sandy Bells on Forest Street in Old Town. The pub Deacon Brodie on the Royal Mile takes its name from a wealthy 18th-century metal smith who became infamous for breaking into the houses of his customers. He is said to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write The Strange case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. If your visit to Edinburgh takes place in summer, The Pear Tree (38 West Nicolson Street) has a really pleasant beer garden decorated with lemon trees.
Of course, a blog that mentions both Scotland and alcohol cannot fail to address the topic of whisky (the Irish spell it with an ‘e’, the Scots without). Even though a friend of mine argues that whisky should be smelled rather than tasted for variety, you might bid differently and visit The World of Whisky on 354 Castle Hill. Skip the boring tour and head straight for the bar.
Edinburgh: The Rural City
A part of what makes Edinburgh a beautiful city is that nature is never far away. There are several opportunities to take a short hill walk close to the city centre, if you fancy fresh air and mild exercise. If you go down the Royal Mile and turn right at the gates of Holyrood Palace you will find yourself at the base of Arthur’s Seat. Besides a stunning view of the city there is also a small ruin of an old church to look at. Another, less exhausting, alternative is Calton Hill, the site of Edinburgh’s own Acropolis, called the National Monument. This is also where the pagans of Edinburgh gather to celebrate the coming of spring in the Beltane Festival.
Edinburgh: The City of Murder, Filth & All Things Repulsive
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| Edinburgh: The City of Murder, Ghosts & Mystery |
And I mean this as a compliment! What could be more attractive to visitors than a chance to experience the more seedy parts of a capital and its history? Edinburgh has a lot to offer in ways of filth. Located along the Royal Mile, between the Edinburgh Castle and the Holyrood Palace, is the Mary Kings Close, which gives you a more sordid version of the city’s history than the two afore mentioned. Mary Kings Close is a number of 16th-century alleys which were emptied of their inhabitants when the Royal Stock Exchange was built right on top of them in 1753. These streets have been preserved (as well as a snake in formaldehyde) to offer a unique glimpse of 16th-century urban planning (or lack thereof) and rough city life. The tour of Mary Kings Close adds a lot of drama, including a ridiculous ghost séance, but it is nonetheless a truly remarkable historical attraction.
In the Surgeons’ Hall Museum on Nicolson Street you can learn about the medical history of Scotland, the discoveries of insulin and penicillin and the famous medical students such as Arthur Conan Doyle. More importantly though, the museum has several of those old jars filled with strange specimens and it also gives you the opportunity to play surgeon yourself. Edinburgh ghost tours are another popular option for getting into the gory and gruesome history of the city.
Edinburgh: The City of Festivals
In August, Edinburgh becomes the host of festivals of all kinds that draw large international crowds. The biggest is the Edinburgh International Festival (August 10 - September 2) for fans of classical music, theatre, opera and dance. There is also an International Book Festival (August 11 - 27), Edinburgh Fringe Festival (August 5 - 27) and dozens of other festivals dedicated to film, science, jazz, art and many, many, many more interests. On the last day of April, the pagans (and quite a lot of non-pagans as well) gather on Calton Hill in downtown Edinburgh to celebrate the coming of spring with much fire, nudity and catchy music in the Beltane Festival. These Gaelic shenanigans start at sundown and goes on all through the night.
Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s list of things to do and tours in Edinburgh, Glasgow and all of Scotland.
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