The Crazy Wars Between Cities
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I had to laugh when I saw this tongue-in-cheek ad campaign for Sydney, the result of another magazine-sponsored attempt to promote the war between cities that never seems to stop. Why is that? Why do cities have to battle each other over which is the “most livable,” “most cosmopolitan” or, even more ridiculous, the “best.”
Mate, I like ‘em all!
For all the same reasons life wouldn’t be much fun if we all looked alike, dressed alike, thought alike or spoke the same way, it’s just really, really good that the world’s major cities are so incredibly un-alike. I hate leaving Sydney and my beloved Bondi Beach, but walking down Piccadilly and through Green Park isn’t too shabby an experience either, and it’s certainly not one you’ll find in Sydney.
That got me to thinking: what are the things I like to do as soon as I arrive in one of these cities, the things that make me glad I’m there? So I made a list.
Ode to the World’s Great Cities
In San Francisco I wait until the weekend (Sunday is best because there’s less traffic) and drive to Treasure Island just before sundown. San Francisco’s skyline is like nothing else; lots of hills, lots of white, tons of quirky buildings and monuments, two big, bold bridges, a huge bay, Alcatraz… there’s a lot to see and it’s all very definitely San Francisco, you couldn’t for a minute confuse it with anywhere else. I see this view in front of an invariably orange sunset and I feel good about being there; that’s a good thing.
London is for walking. Straight out the hotel door, left, right it doesn’t really matter. I keep my eyes open for a park, grab a newspaper — what other city has so many quality daily papers on offer? — and sit myself down on a bench to consume the day’s news. Then on in search of a new pub: with any luck there’ll be a football game on and a partisan crowd to watch it with. Not being a beer drinker is a bit of an impediment, but wine and spirits have the same effect. How many great parks and pubs are there in London? I don’t know, I’m still counting…
Paris is all about watching. Don’t feel guilty: French women — and men too, for that matter — would be annoyed if you didn’t notice how sexy they look in their new Christian Lacroix outfit, their favourite leather jacket, or whatever. They dressed up for you, don’t you get it? So right after unpacking I find a comfortable chair at a cafe on a busy boulevard, pretend to make important phone calls, glance occasionally at the Herald Tribune crossword… and watch the world of Paris go by. Give it a try, and for goodness sake don’t feel bad about it.
Bangkok is for the food. I talked to a couple from New Zealand just the other day, they’d been in Bangkok five days already and admitted they’d had all their meals at the hotel, “it just seemed safest.” OK, if that’s your attitude then maybe this isn’t the city for you. There’s about a zillion street vendors in Bangkok, selling the widest and wildest variety of food and drink you can imagine, so that’s my immersion technique as soon as I land. I’ve even been known to have the cab driver stop before I get to the hotel if I happen to see a vendor doing those little roti-style sweets with egg and carnation milk, rolled up like a crepe. Strike me pink, as my Dad used to say, they’re delicious. Anyway, after one of those I know I’m in Bangkok…
I like visiting Melbourne in winter best of all. That’s because I can go straight from the airport to the football. I mean Australian Rules Football, the real game — maybe that’s not an argument we want to have here — but suffice to say there’s nothing quite like being in a crowd of 80,000 at the MCG, watching Collingwood battle it out with one of their traditional enemies. I know exactly where I am when I hear that roar of “Ball!” go up from 50,000 of our fans — Collingwood supporters are always in the majority — and frankly it doesn’t really matter whether we win or lose, it’s just so Melbourne, so perfect, so unique an experience. Visiting in summer? The cricket works pretty well too…
I find myself in New York a couple of times each year. I don’t mind what season it is, because I know how to connect right away: grab the Times or the New Yorker and check the entertainment listings. Doesn’t matter what month it is, there’s always two or three acts in town that I don’t even have to think twice about wanting to see. And if they’re sold out, it doesn’t matter, just head down to the lower east side and randomise! Any act that’s good enough to get a gig in New York City is worth seeing; there’s tons of great venues, the crowds are always interesting, and if you don’t like the headliner you’ll probably die for the support act. Never fails me…
Got some favourite things to do in favourite cities, the ones you visit all the time and love coming back to? Hit that comments button, OK?
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April 7th, 2008 at 3:54 pm
Fair enough Rod.
But you have to admit — they’ve got a point about soggy chips and warm beer!
Your post got me thinking. If I was to nominate the least appealing traits of San Francisco (my hometown) my poster would read something like this:
It’s just lacking… all the fog, the crazy traffic, a decent newspaper (SF Chronicle, I’m sorry, you suck), a decent baseball team…
April 7th, 2008 at 6:20 pm
Well Dublin is clearly a top city for the drink! There is no better place to be in the world than being holed up in a Dublin pub with good friends and an ever refilling pint of Guinness on the table. Oh, and a packet of Tayto Smokey Bacon crisps.
April 7th, 2008 at 6:48 pm
Vegas has to be the city for all things over-the-top; the bars, the entertainment, the hotels and the people watching! Every walk of life comes to Vegas and there are a few great places to watch - Mon Ami Gabi at the Paris Hotel right on the strip across from the Bellagio fountains, Mix atop The Hotel is great for viewing the Vegas lights and Moon at the Palms for a great bar (with the awesome views). Even after living here for over 12 months, I am still mesmerized by the lights as I drive home along the freeway - the strip miles in the distance.. it is just such a beautiful sight.
April 7th, 2008 at 8:55 pm
I can’t go past New Delhi for life in all its glorious chaos - there is no mistaking where you are when in the first 50 metres outside your hotel, you:
-have a close encounter with a holy cow (it wins)
-walk past a fort fits for a king (well, moghul)
-realise your personal space is now non-existent
-get overwhelmed by strange new smells, the good (frying rotis), the bad (car fumes), and the ugly (you don’t want to know)
-have to say no to bangles, silkscarves, carved elephants, a request for rupees, a request for pens, a request to see an uncle’s shop
Love it!
April 7th, 2008 at 10:42 pm
For me it has to be Barcelona. It is the perfect European city with a combination of culture, food & wine, nightlife, mountains and sea on the door step, a good football team and salsa clubs opened until dawn.
Follow the modernist trail and admire the Gaudi masterpieces, go for tapas at the Bocqueria market where your senses will be enhanced by the colour, taste, smell of the delicious products on offer. Take a walk on the beach on a winter morning, chill out in parc Guell on a hot summer day and experience the nightlife (warning though : no point in going to a club before 2am on a Saturday, it will be empty!). I love it!
April 8th, 2008 at 6:30 am
Chicago - The Windy City! Though I moved away, it still feels like home to me. The food is great, the people are those polite midwestern types, the neighborhoods are cool and its home to our (maybe?) next President of the US. Of yeah, it is a bit cold, but Mom says that builds character.
–Ken
April 8th, 2008 at 8:51 am
Being one the of the polite Midwestern types that Ken mentions….I would agree with Chicago, although my heart lies in Buenos Aires. Who could ever resist the hypnotic and sensual Tango, the thick and juicy beef and dare I mention, some of the best wines in the world? Argentines have such a great passion for life, its is very difficult not to get caught up in the fervor…where else in the world could the largest cemetary and the hottest nightclub district cohabitate together?
April 8th, 2008 at 4:12 pm
I have to add another as well, my new favorite city - Aswan in Egypt! Not really a city, more like a really big village, the Nile is absolutely stunning as it winds through Aswan. Deep blue water fringed by a narrow belt of palm trees and lush vegetation contrasting against the rising orange/yellow sand dunes, it’s just beautiful.
The people are the best as well, not like everywhere else in Egypt where they are lovely but pushy, in Aswan you can do your own thing without much bother. The locals are happy to sit down for a mint tea (with 5 spoons of sugar!) and a chat while you smoke a water pipe as you relax and enjoy the glorious desert sunset.
April 8th, 2008 at 4:52 pm
Hey Rod,
Like the comments & agree, but don’t let those Collingwood supporters know winning is not everything. Just got off the phone to a friend in São Paulo, Brazil’s center of commerce. They were astonished at the frantic pace & vitality of this city. Tokyo is also another that impresses, if you are watching the world go by - my vote goes here.
Personally how do you beat a surf before work?
Sydney has the weather & beaches like no other for me.. But don’t tell anyone!
April 20th, 2008 at 5:14 am
Great to see my personal top 3 - New York, Paris and Sydney - on the list, but there are so many great cities out there, I’d also give honorable mention to:
HongKong - great shopping, great food, great massages, skyscrapers and laser shows, ferries, mid-levels and escalators, and surprisingly lovely beaches
Edinburgh- especially in August for the festival - what a great non-stop party, great kilts, great pubs, great accents.
Queenstown - not only the bungy, the orbing, the white water and the heliskiing, but worldclass wine and food, and stunning mountain scenery from Lord of the RIngs
Hanoi - french vietnamese colonial architecture, great coffee, great food, great foot massages, great markets and shopping, trips to Halong Bay on junks, and truly thought provoking and troubling history.