Viator Viator Travel Blog

We all know that a stopover in the middle of a long-haul flight does not really count in the “how many cities I have been to” stakes. If it did then everybody would claim to know Singapore like an old friend that you continually run into, Frankfurt as that sort of straight place that’s close to everywhere. And London would be an orderly, friendly and happy place based on possible experiences of Heathrow (except for the mysteriously missing baggage).

Apart from the fact that the International Conspiracy of Transport Architects that binds them to make all international airports look the same (subclause #223) an airport is usually like an excision from the place in which it is located – international aerospace - where bags have wheels, make-up is always perfect and clothes never rumple.

Travel by train > travel by plane

Changes, not layovers

Trains, however, are just that little bit different. Like a front seat to reality, you actually set foot in the country (you are really allowed Outside), not everyone speaks English, food doesn’t always come in little Styrofoam containers and you can miss your train and still get the next one – meaning you are not a prisoner of circumstance and can explore a little if you so wish.

So, rather than a stopover, it’s a Change. You get out of one train, carry your belongings yourself, and exercise some of that free will you have been storing up for your holidays and weekends, as well as a little international skill, to take that next connection or diverge from the path better-known as Simplicity. Even if you follow the Itinerary print out from the ticket office, you may still find yourself having a cultural encounter – even if it is for only five minutes. Here are is a European selection of Classic Hits and Memories…

Volleyball in Zurich

Taking surreal to a whole new level, one Thursday night I stumbled upon a beach-volleyball tournament replete with American beer stall right in the middle of the great monument to movement that is Zurich’s Hauptbahnhof. While the game did not quite fulfill the promised excitement of the impromptu grandstand erected in the station, the sandstone architecture and fountain outside did offer an hour’s grace and a nice insight into how the other half live. A little expensive to venture from the doorway, but still a nice holiday for the senses.

Dreaming of Chiasso

I’ve mentioned it before, the little 3-1/4 hour pause, quite literally in the middle of the night, on your meandering movement from Zurich to Milan. In this way it’s a disconnection rather than a connection simply because (as the Rail authorities will tell you) it is the Border. Rather than just dream of Chiasso (and perhaps Italian coffee), why not brave the 2am elements and wander down the hill to Italy? There might be no caffe brewing at that hour, but at least the architecture is nicer and the few woken people are somewhat friendlier than the security at the station.

Brig

Brig, Switzerland: A moment of wonder

This would have to be the absolute hands-down winner so far – five minutes here is worth hours just about anywhere else. Conveniently located between the many tunnels meandering their way through the mountains of southern Switzerland, this is a stop with a View – capital “V”.

Beset by stunning mountains, which can still boast snow-capped peaks even as spring is in full step, this is literally a moment to stop and be captivated by wonder. What would it be like to be here a day or a week? You may never now as the next train comes swiftly to your departing side, but the crisp air and blue sky make it a question worth asking.

Eberswalde

If you are thinking of a visit to the lovely towns north of Berlin, such as Joachimstal or the hot springs at Templin, or even a diversion to PolandHerzog and Frankfurt Oder (the Other Frankfurt) you could well find yourself with some minutes on your hands here. Its flat, and nice and, er, rural. There is, however, a library designed by , not the film director though…

Frankfurt am Main

Frankfurt has a bad reputation amongst many travellers as being, well, a little dull. It is a little like being in a bank without the inconvenience of queueing but there are hidden treasures, like the Eretrean (African) restaurant in Gutleutestrasse where you sit on the floor, eat with your hands and enjoy some of the most divine food in your travelling life that will definitely leave an impression.

Hannover

Quite apart from the fact that this city has some great planning with a huge park in the centre the Alt Stadt (Old Town) is a beautiful place to wander around and see how old German towns once were – with the moat and doors to the city. Also a nice place to run like mad, grab a bread roll and change trains.

Basel

This is slightly confusing as there are several “Basel” stations – Basel Bad, Basel SBB and some other stations that dress up and pretend to be Basel too. By the time you have worked out whether you are in Germany or Switzerland and if it’s Francs or Euros with which to make your purchase you may indeed be about to reach for your luggage again for some further hours of whiling by the windows trackside.

Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof

The Holocaust Memorial in Berlin

Touting itself as “the most modern station in the world”, this pantheon of glass and steel is a multi-level testament to convenience and confusion. Modern Berlin is, but those moments of transition from the top level to the hidden platforms five floors below can leave you contemplating new connections as old ones may go.

Should this prove to be the case perhaps contemplate a quick wander to the Reichstag (Parliament Building), a sojourn by the Spree (River) or a walk through the nearby (and quite stunning as well as very worth experiencing) Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas (Holocaust Memorial).

Paris

It’s spring! It’s Paris! It’s time to change trains! A little joie de vivre will see you whisked across tracks, or even through one of the world’s best underground systems (in my opinion) as you change from a North/South connection to an East/West train from, say, Paris-Lyon to Paris-Austerlitz. Succumb to the romance of the moment, inhale the French air, fall in love, but be sure to shower in advance for best results!

For the well-seasoned traveller – which doesn’t have to mean caked in your own sweat and tears – there still comes a time when the best part of any adventure is the end of the adventure: when the best station is the end of the line and the bags can be put somewhere other than above the seat and the recliner doesn’t come with a fold-out table. You’ve seen, you’ve been, you’ve tasted, and now relax for a moment as the window seat is yours and the Bord-Bistro is always open. Here’s to that.

–Robert Curgenven