I touched down in Barbados for the first time in April 2009. Prior to my visit, the vision I had of this Caribbean island nation was that of a celebrity hideaway. A place where the international jet set goes to vacation, in private villas and in exclusive five-star resorts – far, far away from the public eye.
I expected sky-high prices everywhere and the typical roster of Caribbean offerings – gorgeous beaches, a few upscale restaurants and perhaps nature activities such as a rain forest hike.
I was pleasantly surprised to find a vibrant local flavor and a wealth of cultural activities, neither on my list of expectations. Here are some pointers to guide you around Barbados away from the beaches and the resorts.
Fish, rum & pepperpot
To experience Bajan-style entertainment, the place to go is Oistins Fish Market on a Friday night. While this weekly event has admittedly become a tourist-packed affair in recent years, it’s nevertheless an island must. Both locals and visitors pack the colorful stalls to chow down on delicious Bajan treats like fried flying-fish sandwiches, cou-cou (a cornmeal and okra dish) and macaroni with cheese. This is the prime spot to wander around with a bottle of Banks beer, listen to live music and maybe even boogie the night away.
A rum shop on Barbados
A tour of a few rum shops is another experience not to miss in Barbados. These colorful little shacks – there are over 1,600 on the island – are ideal for a little rum tasting and a game of dominoes. You’ll definitely get more of an insight into the life of locals.
On my trip back in April, I spent a Friday night hanging out at Merten’s rum shop in the village of Half Moon Fort. The center of attention was John, a charming fisherman born and raised in the area who regaled us with stories and stories that could have easily gone into the next day. Across the road, St Elmo’s grocery and its adjacent karaoke bar had some very enthusiastic singers hogging the mic.
One of my favorite meals in Barbados was a lunch at Fisherman’s Pub in Speightstown. The island’s second largest town is so amazingly low-key and quiet that it feels more like a large seaside village. The restaurant, an unassuming spot on the jetty, features lovely water vistas and inexpensive Bajan mainstays such as pepperpot (a spicy meat stew) and jug-jug (a mix of corn and green peas) plus West Indian classics like chicken curry, rice & beans and plantains.
Rumors of art, cinema & après-plage
In Speightstown, I heard rumors of a gallery soon to open up. It was a while in the making but The Old Pharmacy Gallery just opened to the public this December. Housed on the ground floor of a lovely old landmark building that epitomizes traditional Caribbean architecture, the gallery displays contemporary art and photography as well as furniture, antiques and collectibles. It also houses several artist studios for emerging Barbadian artists, which are open to the public during daytime gallery hours.
Sculpture at the Lancaster Great House
Right opposite The Old Pharmacy Gallery, the Star Bar & Sculpture Terrace act as an après-plage wine bar under the stars. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 5pm till 9.30pm, it’s a great place for a beach-side drink and snacks surrounded by art.
Starting in 2010, a season of classic movies will be featured here every Tuesday night at 7pm. The tentative schedule includes screenings of Casablanca, Gone with the Wind and The Sound of Music. For an up-to-date schedule and to reserve your seat, email starbar@sunbeach.net.
Among the many things I loved about my five-day visit to Barbados, the Gallery at Lancaster Great House stands as one of the highlights. This pink-colored colonial home has been beautifully restored and now offers a prime chance to enjoy a dose of local art in a spectacular environment. Admission is free and the gallery is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am till 4pm.
When I visited back in the spring, the pretty garden was dotted with stunning sculptures made of coral stone and plaster by the resident artist Jerome Radigois from Martinique. I was very touched by the solitude of each figure, even those huddled in pairs and trios. Now some of these sculptures have been moved to the Sculpture Terrace opposite the Old Pharmacy Gallery so you can catch them there.
Barbados on a budget
If you’re heading to Barbados on a budget, I’d recommend basing yourself on the rugged, less developed and more affordable east coast of the island. I loved the adorable fishing village of Bathsheba in this region, which is known as the island’s surfers’ mecca.
The village of Bathsheba - a surfer mecca
Here, the place to stay if you’re looking for something alternative and affordable is the cozy Sea-U Guest House Hotel. If you have more cash to splash, check into The Atlantis, the just unveiled 10-room boutique property by the owners of the Little Good Harbour Hotel & the adjacent Fish Pot restaurant on the fashionable west coast of the island (where I had my first ever barracuda and thought it delicious).
Planning a trip? Browse Viator’s Barbados tours & things to do, from Barbados cave tours to Barbados airport transfers to the Atlantis submarine tour.
Posted on December 31, 2009 by Scott Mc in Caribbean, Suggested Itineraries.