Ahhhh Nepal – It’s not everyone’s standard vacation destination. Perhaps it all sounds too hard; after all it is mostly famous for the world’s tallest mountain, Mt Everest (if you’re English), Chomolongma (if you come from the Tibetan Plateau) or Sagamartha (if you’re Nepali). Sure, the mountains always seem to attract the majority of people but I have found a consistent theme with travelers who return from the former
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| Bodhinath Stupa – is there a piece of Buddha’s bone inside? |
Hindu Kingdom, they all can’t stop talking about the hospitality of the people. I would argue with Scott Mc that the Nepali’s deserve to be number 1 for the nicest people in the world. Just like the Taj Mahal is not the only reason to go to India, Everest is not the only reason to go to Nepal.
Let’s debunk some myths
Everyone should have Nepal on their travel list somewhere. There are probably more myths shrouding Nepal right now than there are clouds covering it in the monsoon season. The main reason many people have put their visit to Nepal on hold over the last few years is surely related to the many stories written, and read, about the Maoist insurgency. I’m here to honestly tell you it has affected the lives of the local Nepali people more than it has tourists and it is very safe for people to go to Kathmandu at the very least. It’s much safer than many parts of San Francisco, or Sydney for that matter, and like many troubled countries on earth going to Nepal (which some see as supporting the Maoists?) comes down to your own travel philosophy – but that’s the only thing that should be stopping you. In April this year the rebel group and government finally agreed to the drawn out peace talks and the Maoists were finally recognized and they joined the government. Even with the first Maoist minister resigning from his post as Forest Minister just the other day analysts all agree it is unlikely this will bring apart the eight party coalition government. Things are looking great for Nepal and thank god, because the people just don’t deserve it.
It’s also not that cold in Kathmandu, rather, it gets quite hot! You are not climbing Everest, in which case it would be, you are in Kathmandu, elevation 4,445 feet, and much warmer in winter than say, Chicago. No altitude sickness here. Nepal has every climate zone on earth ranging from the green, lush, animal filled terrain bordering India to the top of the world, literally. If you are willing to travel to San Francisco in summer then you should have no problems with Kathmandu in winter. It is quite rare to see snow in Kathmandu.
And what’s all this hullabaloo about the monsoon? Yeah, it comes, and it comes hard, but the main reason people don’t traveling to Nepal during monsoon season is because the clouds blocks the view of the highest mountains on earth. Fair enough. But there is no reason why you cannot visit Kathmandu outside the popular October – May period if you just want a taste of the culture. Do pack your raincoat though; it really is a delightful season to experience in Asia.
Okay, that wasn’t the most inspiring piece written to get you interested in Kathmandu but you gotta get your facts straight before you can dream further.
Make Kathmandu a 3-day extension from New Delhi
For all of you traveling to India why not consider buying a round-trip Delhi – Kathmandu ticket. You CAN purchase this flight on the internet, and to make it even easier, you can obtain your visa on arrival. I personally encourage getting your visa on arrival due to the fact that the line of people coming off the aircraft with a visa is usually much longer than the line of those without one. Much quicker, very painless, just have some cash and photos ready. The flight is only an hour and a half from Delhi and it will end up being a bucket load cheaper than flying from Bangkok. If you do choose to fly from Bangkok get a Thai flight if your time is limited. A Royal Nepali flight is fine and safe, just not always on time.
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| Himalayan vista from Nagarkot |
Okay, we’re here. Now what?
If you are limited on time there are numerous things to do in and around Kathmandu and the Kathmandu Valley. You don’t have to hit the hills to get a cultural experience, or to see the mountains for that matter, but if you’re a purist then trekking, obviously, is the first option…
If the mountains are calling, and an evening canvas soiree is not your thing, then naturally a Himalayan mountain flight from Kathmandu is the only option. Nepali pilots seem to have nerves of steel and they really are quite brilliant. A Himalayan Mountain Flight will allow you to see more than just one 8,000 meter peak, so for the armchair peak grabbers out there make sure you do this one. What could be better than checking ‘world’s tallest mountain’ off the travel list?
Don’t like the air then that’s alright (although I’d be interested to know how you plan to get there). Kathmandu’s streets offers very vivid scenes of sub-continent living but it is much more relaxed, and cleaner, than New Delhi. You’ll see your first sights of the Sherpa legend (read small people carrying ridiculously large loads) like men carrying furniture such as fridges or lounges on their heads. It certainly is a site to behold. I’ll never forget my best friend firing off 2 roles of film (36 exposures mind you) between the airport and the hotel in his rush to capture everything he could see.
Nepal was, until very recently, a Hindu Kingdom with the majority of Nepali’s following the Hindu faith. Despite the claim that Buddha was actually born in Nepal the Buddhist influence is isolated, mainly to the Solu Khumbu region (where Everest lives) as this region borders Tibet. A lot of Tibetan refugees have fled into Nepal and down into the relative heat of Kathmandu and you can support them by purchasing some of their goods at Tibetan Refugee Center, just opposite the Bodhinath Stupa, a Kathmandu must see. Bodhinath is a magnificent stupa, alive with pilgrims from all over the world, and it is believed that a bone fragment of Buddha is housed in the stupa. For contrast, then head down to Pashupatinath a holy Hindu temple on the Bagmati River. WARNING: sensitive stomachs need not go as it is not unusual to see a cremation in progress on the banks of the river. However, while walking through the fabulous Durbar Square the one thing that caught my eye in Kathmandu was this – Nepal has a Kumari, the last LIVING goddess on earth.
What the…!?!
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| The intriguing Kumari |
Go check it out. She is real and the story on how someone is selected for this not-so-glorious job is simply fascinating. You may need to hang around for a while before she sticks her head out of the window once a day or you can go in September during the Indra Jatra festival where she is paraded through the street. At the end of the day head most like to adjourn to the lively Thamel district full of restaurants, souvenir shops and bars. My tip, go to the Rum Doodle Bar to get that Everest mountaineer feeling. The original wall was signed by Sir Edmund Hillary, after he and Norgay Tenzing summitted Everest in 1953, and the 1 signature has turned into an historical collection of signatures by other climbers who have followed in Ed’s large crampon footsteps. If you are in Kathmandu around the end of May you might even spot a few mountaineers who’ve just come off the mountain. A nice place to soak in history, a meal and Nepali beer.
There are enough ideas above to keep 2 days occupied but if you start itching to get out of Kathmandu then short trips to the historic city of Bhaktapur are worth a look if you want more culture but if you want a Himalayan sunrise then keep going to Nagarkot. Decided you want to dip your toe into the waters of Himalayan trekking, try this little number. Viator has put together a great short stroll through the terraced hills of the Kathmandu Valley that will give you a great insight into the Nepali rural lifestyle and the magic of the mountains. So if Kathmandu is not on your travel list yet go fetch that pen and paper now. Kathmandu is fun, cheap, safe, easier to get to than ever before and has 2 reasons that really leaves other destinations in its wake by comparison – the people and the mighty Himalaya. See you there.













August 20, 2007 at 6:54 AM
Go to Pilgrims Bookstore in the Thamel where you can find great reading material to take along on your trek. Pick up Beyond the Summit by Linda LeBlanc. Details of the Sherpa culture are interwoven in a tale of romance and high adventure.
Sherpas are the true heroes on Everest. One third of all deaths on the mountain have been Sherpas but one rarely learns of this. The story has something for everyone: a love affair between an American journalist and Sherpa guide, conflict between generations as the modern world challenges centuries of tradition, an expedition from the porter’s point of view.
Below are selections from reviews. To read the complete ones and excerpts go to http://www.beyondthesummit-novel.com
Beyond the Summit, is the rare gem that shows us the triumphs and challenges of a major climb from the porter’s point of view. The love of two people from diverse cultures is the fiery centerpiece of a novel that leads its readers through harshly beautiful and highly dangerous territory to the roof of the world. Malcolm Campbell, book reviewer
Conflict and dialog keep this gripping story of destiny, romance and adventure moving from the first page to the last paragraph. LeBlanc has a genius for bonding her readers and her characters. I found I was empathizing in turn with each character as they faced their own personal crisis or trauma.
Richard Blake for Readers Views.
A gripping, gut-twisting expedition through the eyes of a porter reveals the heart and soul of Sherpas living in the shadows of Everest. EverestNews.com
A hard-hitting blend of adventure and romance which deserves a spot in any serious fiction collection. Midwest Book Review
LeBlanc is equally adept at describing complex, elusive emotions and the beautiful, terrifying aspect of the Himalayan Mountains. Boulder Daily Camera
LeBlanc’s vivid description of the Himalayas and the climbing culture makes this a powerful read. Rocky Mt News Pick of the Week
A rich adventure into the heart of the Himalayan Kingdom. Fantastic story-telling from one who has been there. USABookNews.com
This is the book to read before you embark on your pilgrimage to Nepal. The author knows and loves the people and the country, and makes you feel the cold thin air, the hard rocks of the mountains, the tough life of the Sherpa guides, and you learn to love them too. This is a higly literate, but also very readable book. Highly recommended.”
– John (college professor)
Memorable characters and harrowing encounters with the mountains keep the action moving with a vibrant balance of vivid description and dialogue. Literary Cafe Host, Healdsburg, CA
This superbly-crafted novel will land you in a world of unimaginable beauty, adventure, and romance. The love story will keep you awake at night with its vibrant tension and deep rich longing. Wick Downing, author of nine novels
Such vividly depicted images of the Everest region and the Sherpa people are the perfect scenario for the romance and adventure feats narrated. It’s a page-turner, so engrossing you end up wanting to visit Nepal! Not just novel, but perfect for those seeking to get acquainted with the culture of this country.
By Claudia Fournier (América, Bs. As., Argentina)
October 26, 2008 at 8:13 PM
I am planning to start a trip from Kathmandu in mid February. I will be overlanding with Dragoman, a company with which i have made numerous trips, and ending up in Mumbai 7.5 weeks later. I was last in Kathmandu almost 34 years ago and expect many changes over that time. My query relates to what I should do outside Kathmandu prior to the trip starting. I am thinking perhaps a couple or three day prior to the trip and would welcome some advice on what i might see and do. I am a keen video maker and will be looking for material for my next video. Advice would be welcome.
John A
August 16, 2009 at 6:20 AM
Fantastic article- I really enjoyed it! We visited Nepal in October of 2008, and I agree that the nicest people in the world reside there. I loved it and can’t wait to go back!
December 13, 2009 at 11:03 AM
I love this blog. thank you. Kathmandu is a very nice place to hangout. thamel is my favorite spot along with basantapur and patan durbar square.
March 24, 2010 at 10:31 PM
Thank you for this blog post debunking the myths regarding Nepal and Kathmandu and all other places outside it are safe enough for any tourists…and there are lots and lots of things to do in Nepal except Mount Everest only….for eg…Annapuran Base Camp trek is considered among the top ten places for trekking…..we have a bungee jump at the highest altitude in asia…etc…
December 13, 2011 at 10:44 AM
that looks suckey…
July 23, 2012 at 1:28 AM
Thanks for this post. I will go to Kathmandu for my trip.
December 20, 2012 at 3:25 PM
Heading for Nepal from Bangladesh on the morning flight. Hope to have a nice holiday, including Christmas and New Year’s Day. Were there three years ago to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary, and ended up hiking up to Poon Hill from Pokhara. A memorable trip! Thanks for the article!