Two Weeks in Tanzania

With around 53 countries, 2,000 languages and covering about 6% of the earth’s surface, Africa is pretty big; so to get a glimpse of it in a short two week break is a tricky one. However, precisely because of its size and diversity is it possible to turn up and experience it first hand on a budget and far from the package tours. A great place to do this is Tanzania.

Relaxing in Tanzania

Before You Go

If there is one thing you need to know about a holiday in Tanzania it is the importance of pleasantries. Do not underestimate the need for the obligatory list of ‘how are you’s’. If you go to ask for directions from a man on the street, never just jump into ‘excuse me, where is….’. First ask the man how his home is, his day, his week, his family, even the goat he is leading by rope and then, if you remember, you can ask him to point you in the direction of whatever it was you were looking for. Once you have mastered this, preferably in Ki-Swahili, then you will find Tanzania one of the friendliest and most enchanting places you will ever visit.

Day 1

Flights to Dar es Salaam, meaning House of Peace, are significantly cheaper than those to Arusha or Kilimanjaro. Called the bongo, brains/wits, by its 2.5 million inhabitants’, experiencing the hustle and bustle of Dar is key to understanding Tanzania. It’s best to spend a night here, both to gather your own wits and because all buses to the northern safari circuit leave early in the morning.

Day 2

Head to Ubungo central bus station and prepare yourself for what may be your first real taste of Tanzania. Touts will descend upon you promising the comfiest ride, food, entertainment and much more to entice you to take their bus. If you haven’t had your coffee then this slap to the face will certainly wake you up. One small tip is don’t lose your cool – pretend you have done this a thousand times before, smile, laugh and say “poa”, cool, whenever you think necessary.

You will hear and read many stories about which bus company to take and which to avoid, however it’s fair to say that they are all pretty scary, bumpy, painful and will leave you feeling like you have gone a round with big Mike once you finally arrive. However, the 8-hour journey from Dar to Moshi is exceptional as it takes you right across the country, giving time to bond with fellow passengers, sample local foods through the open windows and enjoy the wonderful scenery passing by.

The majority of tourists head to Arusha to start their safari or Kilimanjaro trek. Quite frankly there really is no reason as Moshi just down the road is cheaper, more relaxed, friendlier and with Killi looming over the town, far more picturesque. Upon arrival at the main bus stop, you can walk undisturbed a short distance into the town centre where you will find the Kindoroko, Buffalo and Leopard hotels.

Moshi is replete with tour operators and you are bound to find one able to take you the next day on a safari. One recommendation would be R2R Adventure who are new to the scene and eager to make a name for themselves.

A Colourful Massai market by the side of the Dar – Moshi highway

Day 3 & 4

Wake early and head with your tour operator to Lake Manyara National Park, famed for its colony of flamingos, proximity of its elephant herds and, ever elusive, tree climbing lions. In the evening your guide will have you booked into one of the local hotels, camping sites or lodges. It’s typically early to bed as it will certainly be early to rise for the drive to Ngorongoro crater.

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the crater really is spectacular and as you enter over the top lip the views are like something out of the Lost World. This collapsed volcano has created a natural enclosure for a flourishing wildlife park. In the crater you will see herds of wildebeest and zebra, a scattering of elephants, probably some hippos and most definitely some of the inbred, but exceptionally large lions.

The king of the Ngorongoro crater awaiting the return of his pride with lunch

Day 5, 6 & 7

In Tanzania there are two key things which most people want to see: safari and the coast. Others however, who are a little more intrepid, venture into the mountains, either the Pare or the Usambara, both formed over 2 billion years ago and covered in cloud rain forest with a wealth of unique endemic species.

For the Usambaras, a great place to head to by bus direct from Moshi, is Lushoto. With its German past still very evident in both the buildings and the people, Lushoto is not only beautiful but intriguing. There is even a Second World War German bunker atop the highest peak in the range, that is now only occupied by thousands of bats. Through the Community Care & Friendship Association just west of the bus station you can hire a guide and take numerous walks into the forests. All profits go towards community development projects.

The other option is to head into the far more ‘untouched’ Pare mountains. Take any bus from Moshi heading south to Dar and get off in Same. From here ask around for a bus, pickup or motorbike to Chome village. This little village, settled in the shadows of numerous peaks is a lush green scattering of small houses and winding dirt paths. In the mornings, as the clouds rise in the sky they pour into the valley like bubbles rolling over the lip of the bath.

In Chome, ask around and you are bound to find someone to take the day to trek with you into the forested mountains. Amongst an abundance of wildlife you may be lucky to see the voodoo cows who roam the forest undisturbed, howler monkeys whooping in the tree tops, chameleons and even the deadliest of all, the black mamba snake.

Day 8 & 9

Leaving the mountains and the cool air, take a direct bus from either Same or Lushoto to Tanga on the coast. In Tanga change and take one of the small local daladala buses down a long winding coastal road to Pangani, a wonderfully friendly and remote little coastal village on the mouth of Tanzania’s longest river, a definite must see. You can pretty much guarantee that you will be the only tourist staying as this hidden gem is far from any tourist map.

Old colononial era housing can be found on every corner in Pangani

Walking around this 19th century Arab slaving port, which was also the centre of an armed resistance to German colonial rule, it really feels as though time has stood still. The inhabitants of Uhindi street still have Indian faces from when their ancestors where brought there to work under colonial rule; the slave depot and prison still stand, the German graveyard still looks cared for and the Boma, built in 1810 by an Omani slave trader still awes. Pangani really is a step back in time and it is worth arranging a village tour through the local tourist impresario, HotHot.

Another thing that HotHot can arrange is a day long dhow trip with a local fisherman to Maziwe Island, a sand bank four hours out to sea. The trip alone is worth it as you may be lucky to see dolphins and tuna breaking the surface of the crystal clear, turquoise blue waters. Maziwe Island is no more than a 100m long and 20m wide stretch of snow white sand surrounded by wonderfully clear tropical fish filled water with a rainbow world of corrals. As you are literally miles from anyone and anything don’t forget water, food, sun cream and if you have a dodgy tummy make you sure you check which way the current is flowing!

Day 10 & 11

Moving on from Pangani, catch a small motorised fishing boat to Nungwi in the north of Zanzibar. The distance is about 40 miles, takes just over 4 hours and is truly adventurous. As the trip is very much ‘off the beaten track’ do your research first and definitely check the weather forecast.

A ride on a traditional Dhow along the coast is a magical experience

On arrival in Nungwi your boat lands on a pristine talcum power-like white sandy beach which squeaks beneath your feet like little squeals of joy. However unlike Pangani every single meter of beach here is filled by foreign owned hotels, catering to package holiday makers. Despite this, Nungwi is a beautiful spot for a couple of days, where you can snorkel amongst dolphins, watch the sun set over the ocean on a Dhow cruise, dance the night away at a full moon party or experience the culinary orgasm of an amazing Zanzibari fish dinner.

Day 12 & 13

There are two ways of moving on from Nungwi to Stone Town: a tourist bus or local daladala costing a fifth of the price and both taking around 2 hours. Stone Town really is spectacular, enchanting, mesmerising and a whole host more. You can spend hours and hours walking through the Arabic styled narrow passage ways, completely and utterly lost but without caring.

This historic epicenter of slavery for East Africa was once also the short lived capital of Oman. It has history lurking round every corner in its mazelike centre. Where Dhows pass ocean liners in the bay, man-pulled rickshaws pass BMWs in the street, you can see flourishing markets, slave baracoons, ornate doors and even go on a spice tour in the surrounding countryside.

Zanzibar still holds its majestical allure

Day 14

The fast ferry to Dar from Stone Town is much simpler than the boat ride to Nungwi, but definitely less adventurous. From the harbour in Dar a taxi to the airport is both quick and relatively cheap.

And so ends your African adventure. Short but action-packed – the only difficult part is the culture shock of a Monday morning return to work.

- Chris Courth

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